You can add small turnbuckles to the tail wires to add adjustability and tensioning. There are descriptions about how to safety wire the turnbuckles, and you can get all sizes of stainless turnbuckles at sailing supply stores. I did that with my Ultracub and it made adjusting and tuning very easy (and it's an easy retrofit if you want to add them later). Great work on the build!
I ran into another problem with my guide pullys going up the rear strut. The cable is a 1/16 inch away from the fuselage fitting. So i have to space the 2 forward pullys out a 1/8 inch extra. I mouted the control T on top, because on the bottom aileron would lock up. I made a temporary strap so i could slide the T up an down to fine tune the final hole. For the heak of it i tryed it on the top an was impressed it worked way better an did not lock up. I'm using forks for the linkage rods. I like what you did grinding the end off the cable ferrel. Makes sense.
Think I understand…. I may reach out on messenger if I got questions. I hope within a few weeks to be getting to this stage. Of course it will probably be longer the way things have been going. lol
The empanage was quite a deal for me. Sharp edges an added support i had to recover 4 pieces. Per red tag by spencer i installed 4130 for the leading tube on the vertical stabliser, and a little kicker brace in front. Alignment of the horizontal stabilizer was tricky for me , with a string down the center top tube, an a square an long straight edge i finely got it real close to do the final drilling. I had to epoxy wood filler parts 3" in my elevator conection ,was so sloppy i thought. Les said was no problem even with 2" wabble between the LH,RH. elevator. At full up elevator my control cable touchs the top of my stop bracket, but barely so lm going to leave it.
Yeah, not too much out there on this subject... Other than being even lighter than original shape, that's another benefit of a curved leading edge, with the aluminum leading edge - it is super stiff!!! I saw were a man bent the 3/4 vertical tube on a WW1 replica with no deviation from curved leading edge... I'm working on the next video of the elevator & rudder controls... It's getting exciting for sure...
Thank you for the offer - it amazes me how wonderful this community is... I believe you're talking about the aluminum washers above & below the horizontal tail? If so, these are per the plans so that we can "shuffle" washers from top to bottom or vise versa to adjust the angle needed for best stick pressure... Leonard used simple things like this through-out his design... If this isn't what you were talking about, let me know... And thanks again for the offer... And I'm so glad your enjoying them, I try to be as short as possible, but yet showing all the helpful tips as well... Thanks again!!!!
Been following your build and I also bought the XL plans over 2 years ago now. I originally and still want the half vw but ran across a super deal here in my hometown on a rotax 447. Do you think the 447 would be fine in the xl eagle until I replace it with the half vw? I understand the weight difference but speaking horsepower wise. Can't wait to see you actually in the air with it.
First off, Thank you... I would think it'd work once you worked out the W&B... Seems like I've seen on online, but never talked with anyone that has flown one... (Yet...) :) The 2 stroke is on most ultralights for a reason... Of course, I don't like the sound of them (partly why I choose the LE); but they are lightweight & powerful... I'm getting excited as well, it felt good to sit in the seat before - but now with the tail, it almost feels like I can do this... Gotta get those wings out & painted... Thanks again...
Looking good, David!
Thanks Steven! I really appreciate all the support...
You can add small turnbuckles to the tail wires to add adjustability and tensioning. There are descriptions about how to safety wire the turnbuckles, and you can get all sizes of stainless turnbuckles at sailing supply stores. I did that with my Ultracub and it made adjusting and tuning very easy (and it's an easy retrofit if you want to add them later). Great work on the build!
Thanks for the info! Appreciate you following along...
Thanks for the video!!
You’re very welcome. If you got questions, feel free to ask - that’s why I’m doing these.
Good information david, thanks
Thanks, hopefully helps!!!
Keep it up! I plan to start a build soon and your videos will be much help. Thank you!
Glad I could help! You're very welcome... Thank you for the encouragement...
I ran into another problem with my guide pullys going up the rear strut. The cable is a 1/16 inch away from the fuselage fitting.
So i have to space the 2 forward pullys out a 1/8 inch extra. I mouted the control T on top, because on the bottom aileron would lock up. I made a temporary strap so i could slide the T up an down to fine tune the final hole. For the heak of it i tryed it on the top an was impressed it worked way better an did not lock up. I'm using forks for the linkage rods. I like what you did grinding the end off the cable ferrel. Makes sense.
Think I understand…. I may reach out on messenger if I got questions. I hope within a few weeks to be getting to this stage. Of course it will probably be longer the way things have been going. lol
The empanage was quite a deal for me. Sharp edges an added support i had to recover 4 pieces. Per red tag by spencer i installed 4130 for the leading tube on the vertical stabliser, and a little kicker brace in front. Alignment of the horizontal stabilizer was tricky for me , with a string down the center top tube, an a square an long straight edge i finely got it real close to do the final drilling. I had to epoxy wood filler parts 3" in my elevator conection ,was so sloppy i thought. Les said was no problem even with 2" wabble between the LH,RH. elevator. At full up elevator my control cable touchs the top of my stop bracket, but barely so lm going to leave it.
Yeah, not too much out there on this subject... Other than being even lighter than original shape, that's another benefit of a curved leading edge, with the aluminum leading edge - it is super stiff!!! I saw were a man bent the 3/4 vertical tube on a WW1 replica with no deviation from curved leading edge... I'm working on the next video of the elevator & rudder controls... It's getting exciting for sure...
Looking good! send me the length of the washer spacers ,i.d and o,d and I will make you some out of aluminum no charge enjoy watching your build
Thank you for the offer - it amazes me how wonderful this community is... I believe you're talking about the aluminum washers above & below the horizontal tail? If so, these are per the plans so that we can "shuffle" washers from top to bottom or vise versa to adjust the angle needed for best stick pressure... Leonard used simple things like this through-out his design... If this isn't what you were talking about, let me know... And thanks again for the offer... And I'm so glad your enjoying them, I try to be as short as possible, but yet showing all the helpful tips as well... Thanks again!!!!
@@davidadkins1926 yes that was what I was talking about keep up the good work 😀
Been following your build and I also bought the XL plans over 2 years ago now. I originally and still want the half vw but ran across a super deal here in my hometown on a rotax 447. Do you think the 447 would be fine in the xl eagle until I replace it with the half vw? I understand the weight difference but speaking horsepower wise. Can't wait to see you actually in the air with it.
First off, Thank you... I would think it'd work once you worked out the W&B... Seems like I've seen on online, but never talked with anyone that has flown one... (Yet...) :) The 2 stroke is on most ultralights for a reason... Of course, I don't like the sound of them (partly why I choose the LE); but they are lightweight & powerful... I'm getting excited as well, it felt good to sit in the seat before - but now with the tail, it almost feels like I can do this... Gotta get those wings out & painted... Thanks again...