ODV-GBS-C Video Scaler: Review, Modding, and Unbricking
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ส.ค. 2024
- Followup: • ODV-GBS-C Followup: Fi...
Retro RGB Video: • GBS Control: Installat...
GBS-C firmware installation guide: ramapcsx2.github.io/gbs-contr...
Game footage used:
Evil Twin (PS2)
Jak-X: Combat Racing (PS2)
The Italian Job (PS2)
Timestamps:
0:00 - Intro
0:32 - GBS-C Overview
2:38 - Device Overview
3:31 - User Experience
5:17 - De-interlacing
7:50 - Modding & Unbricking - เกม
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This is exactly the kind of video I wanted before I bought mine a few months back, it's Very helpful.
I couldn't make heads or tails of updating it so this is much appreciated!
Which one did you get?
@@amoretpax199 I got the ODV GBS C the same orange and black one in the video, the price difference between it and an ossc was quite a bit more in the UK when I got mine.
@@vibrivibin4344 Thanks, I think I will get the blue one or the orange since it's my favourite colour.
Nice work!
Thanks
Had the same device for some time and switched to a retrotink 5x pro. It's a cheap way to get into retro upscaling. Btw. if you want to put the device into flash mode without opening it, you can just hold down the VR button, then switch it on and connect it to your computer. You'll recognize that it's in flash mode if the display, that usually lights up if you turn it on normally, doesn't turn on. That's how I updated my device with the newest firmware via arduino.
I was about to say the same thing holding VR button. I have the same OBS-C and I think these custom versions are missing the external clock generator. I contacted the seller about a year ago about this issue and flashed a couple firmwares but was never able to get the clock generator to enable or disable. Have you tried messing with your clock generator settings?
Great video, short and informative, as it should be! As I wanted to get rid of these nasty sync drops of the OSSC while video mode switching (many Atari ST and Amiga demos do this!), I bought this device. On Amiga 1200 it works perfectly fine, no sync drops anymore. With Atari ST/Falcon it's a lottery, it can work but most of the time it doesn't unfortunately! I also tried combining both devices via VGA, as you do. Which video mode do you select on the GBS-C, while transferring VGA signal into OSSC? Normally I would suggest "pass through", but the OSSC doesn't sync then (tested only with Atari ST/Falcon)! 🤔
Passthrough for HD resolutions, 480p for everything else.
Did not know about this. The deinterlacing functionality looks interesting, not even necessarily for gaming - thanks! Probably won’t grab one, leastways not immediately, but I’m intrigued
If you wanted really good quality for converting/ archiving analogue video, it would be better to get something higher end probably, but the GBS-C would certainly be okay for that. It's insanely cheap considering how many different features it has.
@@syncmonism If you have a 480i source (PS2) then there isn't that many options suitable for gaming that is much better or higher end, e.g. Framemeister, Retrotink 5x, Retrotink 4k, OSSC-Pro, or a CRT. Some video processors can do better job but more the lag.
For once youtube recommends a video that's actually useful to me. So I have had this for about a year and it worked amazingly up until a few months ago where, I get this really disgusting yellow tint (with RGB scart inputs, doesn't happen with component inputs, those RGB dials affect RGB in/out obviously), anyway, if I put pressure on the unit, it fixes the yellow tint, but since I don't use those knobs at all and kinda hated them being there in the first place, your mod is just what I need to do to hopefully fix it.
Also thanks for mentioning the HDMI vs VGA output too, luckily I have a capture card that has a VGA port which I'll use for streaming from now on. This is something that I really wish the Tink and OSSC had (I believe the OSSC Pro will have a "module" of some kind for VGA out at the same time as HDMI).
The dials control RGB output levels across all inputs. Since your tint problem is only happening on one input, it's most likely either a bad cable or loose connection on the PCB.
@@sync-on-luma Alright so I did what you said at 8:42, after leaving it running for an hour there's no yellow tint at all. Is it supposed to fully disable the dials or only partially? Because if I turn them like ~50% it doesn't adjust the colors but turning them beyond that it does (not a huge deal I won't be turning them at all anyway). Either way it fixed my problem so thanks a lot.
In theory it should fully disable the dials, glad it worked for you though.
mine was broken on arrival, returned it and bought a retrotink 5x instead
What are all those boards connected to your ossc? Can you do a video on it?
That's my MiSTer FPGA, I just mounted them on top of each other to save space.
I had a problem with tearing on this device. And the resolution, using "frame lock" or something makes it lose signal alot.
I completely forget to mention frame time lock in this review. Enabling it is pretty much mandatory, even though it contributes to the HDMI signal's low compatibly. It works fine with my setup, but only because I have an OSSC doing the HDMI conversion.
What's the difference between the blue and the white one on AliExpress?
I don't know but I would assume not much.
@@sync-on-luma Someone else told me it's just the HDMI input. Not worth the extra $60 then.
I'm torn on the GBS-C. I am a tinkerer by heart and although I could buy a Retrotink 4K/5X, I like to build. So build I did. Does it work, yes. Does the WiFi work, maybe one out of 20 times I use it. I have not been able to figure out why either. Sometimes I will fire it up and I can adjust everything via the GUI. Yay, that is what it is supposed to do. Most of the time I cannot access the site and basically it only runs on the last settings. Really defeats the purpose for me.
I have spent a lot of time and money making mine. But after all this inconsistent web access, I am about to grab a 4K and call it a day.
Tinkering is awesome but sometimes it is better to pay.
I am going to mod mine and add a screen so I can manually adjust settings. If that works, I will more than likely keep it.
I've noticed that the WiFi seems to be more reliable if the scaler isn't actively processing a signal.
Also, the settings available though the on-board GUI are much more limited than what's available in the web interface. You can change resolutions and load presets, and that's about it.
When they said only the pal wii and GameCube works they ment though the scart port on the device as only pal works with scart
To be more specific, they were talking about what signals are supported from the analogue multi-out port on the back... but they should have specified that NTSC versions of the Gamecube with the digital AV out port will also work with the appropriate digital AV to component cable.
Component cables from a digital output port? wtf?! It was a cost saving measure to put the digital to analogue conversion circuitry into the cables themselves, to reduce the cost of each console unit. They may have also considered making an HDMI cable for it as well, but I don't think they ever did. Sadly, later NTSC versions of the Gamecube removed this digital AV port entirely, and no such port was ever included on the Wii either.
These cables were super expensive for a long time, but HD Retrovision makes good quality versions of these, which, while expensive, are far cheaper than what the extremely rare out-of-production Nintendo ones were going for for many years.
The Gamecube's display output options are confusing AF, especially when you start talking about different region versions of the console. If you include the Wii, most versions of which are great for playing Gamecube games, there are actually THREE completely different component cables that you can use across the different versions of these consoles to play Gamecube games with, as the analogue multi-out on the Wii is different and not compatible with the analogue multi-out used on older Nintendo consoles.
So im conflicted by the GBSC.
Since most consoles have RGB, some have to mod like the N64 and NES, SCART is an option. Even the PS1 has RGB but not component.
iirc, from the Retro Game Cable's website, based out of UK, i was able to have a cart that had SCART cables for all those consoles, minus the NES which was an RCA to SCART, for about 230 USD.
Put in a Voultar RGB mod for the N64 for 50 after tax and shipping, thats 280.
Then you see these GBC devices ranging from 60 to 100, making the total 340-380.
So for a little more than cost of the RT5x, you have a 1080p upscaler plus all the cables and a mod to take advantage, because while i could just use the cables that came with my consoles, im stuck on composite, and knowing how much better even S video is to it, idk if i wanna waste a RT5x on composite.
Granted, as you do in this video, I could get an OSSC for 150 which puts the total to 490-530, which is cheaper than a RT5x and all those upgraded cables.
Im not sute how to think about this. If this is a better bang for your buck or what.
Edit: i only learned about the GBSC yesterday and still trying to figure out compatibility, so im fully aware im likely wrong. Like i didnt including the cost of component cables for the PS2, Gamecube, Xbox, Dreamcast, and Wii. But that doesnt ignore that the ~$225 saved by going with the GBSC can pay for many cables and even a mod for one console.
So im just overloaded with info and probably Dunning-Krugered
If you haven't, I'd definitely suggest watching the GBS-C follow-up video I made recently before deciding on anything.
5:17 are you sure you about this? the GBS-C does not support RCA video composite, only work with RGB video component and SCART
I'm using component output on both systems.
@@sync-on-luma you are using the RCA cable in the video
@@born_to_play component over RCA plugs. The term RCA refers to the plug type not the signal.
This scaler is shockingly cheap considering how many different features it has. Another thing it's quite good at (for the price) is the scanline adding options it has. By contrast, the significantly more expensive Retrotink 2X Pro's scanline mode is very primitive by comparison, and not as good. The GBS-C is a more direct competitor to the 5x Pro, at least in terms of features. It's definitely worse than the 5x pro overall, but it's also a fraction of the price. While the 2x pro has far fewer features than the GBS-C, it's still a very good upsacler, and color and brightness might still look better with one of those vs. a GBS-C, and I suspect they'd be more reliable over time as well, and obviously MUCH simpler to work with and more idiot proof.
Being able to upscale and output analogue YPbPr (over component) as well as RGBS are both quite rare features which most upscalers don't have at all, though I can't imagine that many people needing this. It could allow you to get old 240p signals to work well with HD CRTS which have good low latency support for 480p signals but not 240p signals. I think it may also be able to upscale to 1080i, though I'm not sure about that. If it can do that, that would allow people to get old consoles working well with late generation HD CRTs which will only give you good latency with a 1080i signal.
can you flash the adrino with the usb port?
Yeah, that's the only way to write to it in flash mode.
as far as i can tell. the newer ones dont use the app. they have a lil lcd screen