Very helpful video. I just bought this yesterday at Lowes to replace my Delta 10" non sliding. $500 plus a free stand. A lot of comments about this part or that part being plastic, not metal. For a saw that will be in my basement shop, used once or twice a month this saw is plenty adequate. I am rebuilding several decks right now so it will get more use for the moment. If you are a contractor and the saw will be bouncing around in the back of a van or pickup and kicked around on a job site then metal parts are a little more relevant. This saw will be outlasting me on this earth. Also having two slide locks seems like a duplication anyway.
No one dislikes plastic parts more than me, but you don't find many power tools that don't have some plastic parts. And you can't expect a $500.00 saw to be built like a $1500 Festool. I bought the last Dewalt miter saw 15 years ago. When I bought the sliding saw I gave it to my son and its still going strong. Anyway, good luck with you saw and thanks for commenting.
Best review Ive seen on the saw. It is a powerful motor, it kept blowing a fuse until I tried a different power outlet. It is big, but the biggest surprise to me was that it didnt have a lazer or Del guide. Setting the teeth on the line is easier but a visual guide is easier. Overall, very happy with it, nice straight cuts. Just took me 15 minutes to find the pin that was locking it in place on the left and instructions werent of much help to start.
Thanks for your comments Speedytrip! The shadow line light kit can be added for a reasonable price. Another viewer sent me a link to MMtoolparts.com. They also have a video on their web site that shows you how to do it.
Lol, it took me a long time to find that silver locking pin too! Thought I was the only one. It took me a minute to learn how to use that yellow cam lock that allow left and right bevels.
Great video. These are indeed great saws and I love mine. However, it should be noted that the DWS779 has gone through at least three production versions at the time of this response ... Type 20, 21, and 22 now being the latest. Each production version has obsoleted (ended production of) the prior version. However, you will not find information concerning the production version Type on the product's packaging. The production version Type may only be found on the label affixed to the upper surface of the saw's motor. Suffice it to say that all DWS779 saws are not the same and you have to dig deeper than the model name. When initially produced, the DWS779 and its $200-$250 more expensive sibling, the DSW780, differed only in that the latter featured an LED shadow cut line light (XPS Light). While the DWS779 Type 20, possibly Type 21, and DWS780 may have all of the features shown within this video, the DWS779 Type 22 production version lacks at least following features: - the bevel stop pawls - slide stop lever. I can only surmise that these production changes were introduced to drive down production cost to make it more competitive, profitable, and provide greater differentiation between itself and the DWS780. It should be noted that many had been turning their DWS779 saws into full DWS780 saws by adding an aftermarket LED shadow cut line light for less than half of the cost differential between these two saws. Should the bevel pawls be a must have feature for you, then two options exist: - purchase the bevel pawls, fasteners, stop bolts, etc. from the DWS780 (approx. $25 in parts) and then drill & tap the base as necessary to install; or - step up to the DWS780.
Hello Charles, Thanks for all of the good information. My saw is the type 21 and it has the bevel pawls and slide lock. I honestly did not know that the new version omitted these features. The pawls are a nice convenience, but I would always double check the cutting angle anyway. In addition to not having the shadow line system they also scrimped on the blade. It comes with a 32T blade instead of the 60T blade supplied with the DWS780. I upgraded mine to an 80T.
Charles, I may do a video update on these changes. I don't want folks to look at my video and be disappointed with their new saw. May I mention you in my video by name as my source, or would you prefer to remain anonymous?
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Your call ... I don't mind either way. Again, my final take on the saw is that it remains among the best 12" sliding miter box saws on the market ... particularly at the $300 price point which I was able to obtain it for.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 After seeing comments from others concerning the included DW3123 32T blade (doesn't meet the spec. for recommended minimum tooth count (40T), but hook angle (7 deg) just meets spec.) and had been identified as a rip blade in some earlier Dewalt advertising, I pointed out this out to Level 2 Dewalt tech support and was informed that the blade was indeed tested for satisfactory performance before deciding to package the 32T with the saw. Accordingly and unlike some others who had contacted Dewalt on this matter, NO replacement blade was offered. I too upgrade my saw with an Diablo 80T blade and will use the 32T blade for general construction tasks not requiring the performance of an 80T.
Very important for precision sawing it doesn't matter which machine.the best you can do buy always a Slide Compound Mitre Saw with the handle in a line above the saw blade,everything has to be in line Slide bar rails,handle,and saw blade. it's better no tilt saw blade, and engine with softstart . Handle vertical or horizontal above saw blade is okay if it is in line above the saw blade and in line with slide bar.Everything has to be in line this is important examples: bosch gcm 800 sj / gcm 8 slj professiona / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / EVOLUTION RAGE R255 sms / HITATCHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX . . The best you can do buy always a miller saw white handle centered in line above the saw blade (aluminum housing) winn winn. And no handle on the side of the saw blade aluminum housing there is always torsion in the aluminum housing... If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +- 5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw. Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blad is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut.If the saw blade is (+-0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blad.
Thank you for your response and the helpful comments, especially for the accuracy test you mentioned. First let me say that the saws you mention, and especially the Kaypek, are all fine saws and are highly rated. Any any one of them should give you years of accurate and depenable service. My mission, though, was to review a saw under $400.00. To me the standouts in this range are the Dewalt and the Hitachi. I chose the Dewalt because of the greater cutting capacities. I had a standard 12" miter saw before and was tired of having to use a cutting sled on my table saw all the time. You are absolutely right about the handle though. It is the most annoying thing about the saw. I have had to learn to make cuts left handed. The most impressive thing about the Dewalt saw has been its accuracy and its ability to stay in adjustment month after month. Side to side deflection is negligible even when with the carriage fully extended. I tried the test you mentioned on a 12" board and set the depth stop to cut at 1/4" deep. The saw was dead accurate. With the saw unpowered the blade slipped right in the saw kerf and traveled the entire length of the cut without friction. At least we know that the handle is mostly just an irritant and not an accuracy killer. Again, a special thanks for telling me about this test proceedure.
You are absolutely right, and Dewalt probably needs to make that clearer to the public in their promotions. They are competing against some really fine saws it the 780's price range.
@@michaelfahim5878 I saw the den of tools once talk about the 779 and 780 and showed internal parts diagrams. But what he implied was that the older generation 780 had heavier duty components, but now they downgraded the newer 780 to the same internals as the 779.
Salve, io ho riscontrato che il piano di lavoro non è perfettamente allineato con le basi laterali risulta più basso rispetto alle basi laterali di appoggio, ciò a mio avviso non consente tagli precisi a 90 gradi. La macchina e la dws780 Qs tipe 12. L’ho resa per la 2 volta
Mi è stato detto da altri che le loro seghe avevano bisogno di un sacco di pubblicitàjustment al momento dell'acquisto. Sono stato solo fortunato che il mio è stato regolato correttamente quando l'ho comprato. Grazie per il tuo commento. Grazie per il tuo commento. Dove sei di? Ho dovuto usare un traduttore online, quindi spero che questo messaggio sia comprensibile.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Ciao si devo tradurre anch’io, sono in Italia Puglia. Io la comprai nel 2021 e il piano rotante non era a livello con le sponde quindi fatto il reso, oggi vorrei acquistarla nuovamente ma mi sa che il problema c’è sempre
@@Sbigol106 Bene, se hai avuto sfortuna una volta, è difficile sentirsi a proprio agio nel tornare con la stessa cosa, ma ci sono un certo numero di seghe di alta qualità là fuori. Grazie.
Update information miter saw Tips and Test: This test is only if you want to saw with precision, with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS. (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed). Step-4. Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade. The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade. Step-5. When you measure the vertical angle square (Digital Angle Gaug) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing. Conclusion:how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing don't go for that (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
Are you familiar with the Delta 12" Cruzer? It might be a good candidate for your list. It's an articulating arm saw similar to the Bosch. I've read some positive reviews about it, but I couldn't find one at any of local retailers here in the Houston area.
The list only includes saws with handle above the saw blade, this in connection with less torsion that is what the test is all about. (example: Bosch GCM12SD / Bosch GCM 12 SDE. is also not in the list). Thanks for your response. ps. greetings from the Netherlands.
There’s a light kit you can buy that basically turns it into a DWS780. It’s worth the money if it’s on sale such as with Lowes right now. I bought mine on sale for $399.
Hey quick question for you. I have this miter saw when I unlock the bevel knob but the zero degree stop is not pulled out my saw goes past 0. How do I fix this??
For anyone who has this issue I just figured it out. It’s that nut with the thread locker right in front of your bevel readings you tighten and loosen it to fine tune your saw to a dead 90. But you have to turn it a little move the bevel a little and put it back in its spot and do that every time you make an adjustment otherwise your digital angle gauge will read as if you did nothing. That’s the part that was confusing me. These micro adjustments weren’t showing up until I moved the bevel after every adjustment to see how much I truly moved it. Hope this helps someone…
@@steverodgers9206 I'm glad you figured out and I think you've probably helped some other folks. It does show how to make the adjustments in your manual, but like most manuals, its hard to understand. I've never had to make this adjustment, but I occasionaly have to adjust the 22.5 deg and 33 1/3 deg. stops. Thanks for your comments.
The title and thumbnail indicate "review and test". After 5 mos. an unbox and setup was not possible. I do a lot of tool videos,, so check out my channel occasionally. If I do an unboxing and set up, it will say so in the thumbnail and in the video title, and it will be comprehensive.
The 780 has a much higher spec and higher quality motor and other higher quality parts. The 779 is a "Big Box" specific model designed specifically to compete against other "BIG Box" saws.
Since making the video, I have had other comments from folks saying it had better parts and motor, but I haven't been able to find an official verification anywhere from Dewalt, but that doesn't mean it's not true. The need to get that message out. Thanks for your comment.
Thank you for the video. Do you have any idea what the black screw on the metal part of the blade guard is for? It's on the left of the saw as you're facing it, and it gets covered by the blade guard arm when the saw is fully lowered. The screw doesn't seem to connect to anything and I am trying to figure out if it is for an accessory or what. Mysterious. Great saw.
There are three black screws on the left. The two in the center loosen the guard so it will lift for blade changes. There is also a small mystery screw to the left of these two which, I think, is the one you are talking about. It seems to have no purpose and it is not even shown on the parts diagrams, nor is it mentioned in the manual. Wish I could be more help.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Thanks for the response! That screw ended up pinning a broken piece of the dust deflector (OEM N630004) right up against the saw blade. So, I thought it was to sort of hold the dust deflector until I replaced the shattered dust deflector and saw that they don't touch at all. That screw was screwed all the way in, so maybe it's a safety feature to stop the blade from spinning if it starts wobbling or gets off plumb... I also couldn't find any mention of that screw in the manual, and if I find out I'll come back and let you know. That's again and happy building. Sweet setup you have!
@@vero0992 You have my curiosity stirred up now. If you find out I would like to know. You may be right about it's purpose. I hope to maybe do a video on how to build my dust collection system in the future. Thanks for your comments and for the follow up.
That's a really good reason to buy from Lowes. I just purchased a new lawn mower and they gave me a 5% discount when I used my existing card. Thanks for the comment!
I bought the DWS779 mounted it on the Ridgid Universal Mitre Saw stand, it all folds away in seconds and takes up very little space when folded in my two car garage. I do most of my cutting outside in my backyard, because I enjoy being outside. It all rolls over the door threshold easily and sets up in seconds.
I too have mounted my saw to a wheeled miter saw stand ... in my case an older Rigid flat topped stand (like the one shown here: homefixated.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/2-old-msuv.jpg) which I had previously used with my Craftsman miter saw. I prefer using a miter saw stand, as it permits the saw to more easily be moved to and around a job site. It also preserves space in my relatively small basement shop. When collapsed and standing vertically, it takes up relatively little floorspace. The DWS779 has a much larger footprint than my prior Craftsman 10" miter saw and occupies almost the entire length of the flat mounting surface.
I was checking through my old messages and noticed that I did not respond to your comments. My apologies. I think it is probably easier to deal with the saw's size if its on a moveable stand. I had to rebuild a 16' long wall mounted table.
First of all, his dust collection system for the saw is real slick. Secondly, the best _honest_ real-world review of this saw's features and pros and cons I've seen. This saw is a steal at the typical $349 from Amazon and HD, but I picked it up for $224 (brand new, free shipping) from eBay the other day. It was listed as "used" (multiple listing) by the seller for $299, but when he noticed me (and I assume other lurkers) viewing the listing, he emailed me and offered to sell it for $224. I immediately bit. When I received it, it was obviously brand-new (factory-sealed box and plastic bags - not a refurb). I'm guessing it was originally HD overstock. It is what I think is the latest iteration - type 22. So there's type 1, then type 20, 21, and now 22 versions of this saw. (The type # is printed on the motor label). I have plenty of room to accommodate the saw (the depth of it goes on for days, as mentioned), and the only thing I found disconcerting - but understandable - is the kickback when pulling the trigger. I have the "toy" version of this saw - the battery-powered 7 1/4" slider (which I love for cutting small items) but it takes a little bit to ramp up to speed, which is somewhat annoying, and is a little underpowered for cutting anything over 1x stock and certainly anything 1x and over that you have to use the sliding mechanism for. (Otherwise it's the fine quality of the 779). The 779 with its non-soft start 15 amp motor chews through 2x stock faster than you can blink. It is a beast. I have a cheap HF 10" Makita knockoff slider that is slow to ramp up to speed as well, and that can be an annoyance - so the kickback torque of the 779 I can live with. The 32-tooth blade that came with it produces pretty rough (splinters) cuts, however, so I'm looking at investing in a higher tooth-count blade for some stuff. The type 22 version I bought completely eliminates the locking lever shown at 4:37 (I can't yet speculate as to why), and if there are any other changes, I've yet to discover them. I'll be investing in the XPS light system (~$69 as an aftermarket add-on) at some point. I love the similar system on my Dewalt 20 volt 7 1/4 slider, because it is _very_ accurate, and doesn't go out of whack the way a laser is prone to do. (It casts a shadow line instead of a laser line). You can also switch it on and check your cut line without having to run the blade at the same time. Again, thanks for this very informative review!
Thanks for your positive comments and congratulations on getting in on a killer deal! It never seems to happen for me. I have not seen the Type 22 yet, but I understand from another viewer that the 22.5 & 33 1/3 degrees bevel stop paws have also been removed from the saw. I demonstrated their use at the 5:50 mark in the video. Does your saw have these paws?
@@icewingdog Thanks for the information Dan. Most of the reviews I have seen on youtube or months old and do not alert folks to the changes with the new model. It,s a shame that they have eliminates such useful things.
Thanks a bunch for making this video, I was trying to understand why the saw i bought was around $350 and others were upwards of $550. I thought maybe I got a lower quality product. I have dozens of dewalt's fine tools and always worry that eventually they will start producing lower quality. Although i wish this saw was a bit more powerful, it does the job most of the time.
Glad I could help. The saw has always been more than adequate for the work I do. So far as the quality issue is concerned, Dewalt's tactics seem to be to drop features rather than cheapening the saw itself. They have dropped the bevel pawls and the slide latch in the new type 22 model. Thanks for you comment.
I bought this saw last night for 399..... Also, that motor starting up is a beast. I was taken aback by that. I've used the lesser dewalt miter saws in the past. Nowhere near that level of power.
My last miter saw was a Dewalt 12" fixed (did not slide) and it was very strong. I used it for 12 years and then gave it to my son and it still works great. Thanks for watching.
One more difference with the 779 vs 780...the bevel lock knob on the 780 is cast metal. On the 779, it looks to be black plastic. I would think the metal would be more durable, especially if you use the saw often. You can see the black plastic knob at the shot at 5:42 .
Yes, you're right. this was a miss on my part. The plastic handle is sturdy, but plastic will eventually fail. I think the handle on the 780 is cast aluminum.
Hello Cee Bee! Before you make a decision, check out this video: th-cam.com/video/cAPV27vnDas/w-d-xo.html Dewalt has made a couple of changes to the 779 you should be aware of. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the kind words, I hope it was helpful. Dewalt has introduced the new model 22 and has omitted a couple of features. I issued a follow up video to address those. Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/cAPV27vnDas/w-d-xo.html
![[ DEWALT DWS779 ] - In-depth Look and Review](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/P35hN-2lrKM/mqdefault.jpg)
This video is being honest and not trying to sell you something!
Appreciate that Robert and thinks for watching it.
Very helpful video. I just bought this yesterday at Lowes to replace my Delta 10" non sliding. $500 plus a free stand. A lot of comments about this part or that part being plastic, not metal. For a saw that will be in my basement shop, used once or twice a month this saw is plenty adequate. I am rebuilding several decks right now so it will get more use for the moment. If you are a contractor and the saw will be bouncing around in the back of a van or pickup and kicked around on a job site then metal parts are a little more relevant. This saw will be outlasting me on this earth. Also having two slide locks seems like a duplication anyway.
No one dislikes plastic parts more than me, but you don't find many power tools that don't have some plastic parts. And you can't expect a $500.00 saw to be built like a $1500 Festool. I bought the last Dewalt miter saw 15 years ago. When I bought the sliding saw I gave it to my son and its still going strong. Anyway, good luck with you saw and thanks for commenting.
Best review Ive seen on the saw. It is a powerful motor, it kept blowing a fuse until I tried a different power outlet. It is big, but the biggest surprise to me was that it didnt have a lazer or Del guide. Setting the teeth on the line is easier but a visual guide is easier. Overall, very happy with it, nice straight cuts. Just took me 15 minutes to find the pin that was locking it in place on the left and instructions werent of much help to start.
Thanks for your comments Speedytrip! The shadow line light kit can be added for a reasonable price. Another viewer sent me a link to MMtoolparts.com. They also have a video on their web site that shows you how to do it.
Lol, it took me a long time to find that silver locking pin too! Thought I was the only one. It took me a minute to learn how to use that yellow cam lock that allow left and right bevels.
@@MixingGBP I cheated and read the manual.
Great video. These are indeed great saws and I love mine. However, it should be noted that the DWS779 has gone through at least three production versions at the time of this response ... Type 20, 21, and 22 now being the latest. Each production version has obsoleted (ended production of) the prior version. However, you will not find information concerning the production version Type on the product's packaging. The production version Type may only be found on the label affixed to the upper surface of the saw's motor. Suffice it to say that all DWS779 saws are not the same and you have to dig deeper than the model name. When initially produced, the DWS779 and its $200-$250 more expensive sibling, the DSW780, differed only in that the latter featured an LED shadow cut line light (XPS Light). While the DWS779 Type 20, possibly Type 21, and DWS780 may have all of the features shown within this video, the DWS779 Type 22 production version lacks at least following features:
- the bevel stop pawls
- slide stop lever.
I can only surmise that these production changes were introduced to drive down production cost to make it more competitive, profitable, and provide greater differentiation between itself and the DWS780. It should be noted that many had been turning their DWS779 saws into full DWS780 saws by adding an aftermarket LED shadow cut line light for less than half of the cost differential between these two saws. Should the bevel pawls be a must have feature for you, then two options exist:
- purchase the bevel pawls, fasteners, stop bolts, etc. from the DWS780 (approx. $25 in parts) and then drill & tap the base as necessary to install; or
- step up to the DWS780.
Hello Charles, Thanks for all of the good information. My saw is the type 21 and it has the bevel pawls and slide lock. I honestly did not know that the new version omitted these features. The pawls are a nice convenience, but I would always double check the cutting angle anyway.
In addition to not having the shadow line system they also scrimped on the blade. It comes with a 32T blade instead of the 60T blade supplied with the DWS780. I upgraded mine to an 80T.
Charles, I may do a video update on these changes. I don't want folks to look at my video and be disappointed with their new saw. May I mention you in my video by name as my source, or would you prefer to remain anonymous?
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Your call ... I don't mind either way. Again, my final take on the saw is that it remains among the best 12" sliding miter box saws on the market ... particularly at the $300 price point which I was able to obtain it for.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 After seeing comments from others concerning the included DW3123 32T blade (doesn't meet the spec. for recommended minimum tooth count (40T), but hook angle (7 deg) just meets spec.) and had been identified as a rip blade in some earlier Dewalt advertising, I pointed out this out to Level 2 Dewalt tech support and was informed that the blade was indeed tested for satisfactory performance before deciding to package the 32T with the saw. Accordingly and unlike some others who had contacted Dewalt on this matter, NO replacement blade was offered. I too upgrade my saw with an Diablo 80T blade and will use the 32T blade for general construction tasks not requiring the performance of an 80T.
@@charlesanderson6863 I agree. My own take is that a 32T is only suitable for rough carpentry work. I use mine as a rip blade for the table saw.
A very sensible concise informative review why have you no subscribers?? Well done Sir!!
Thank you for the kind and positive comments, and I am glad you enjoyed the video.
Very important for precision sawing it doesn't matter which machine.the best you can do buy always a Slide Compound Mitre Saw with the handle in a line above the saw blade,everything has to be in line Slide bar rails,handle,and saw blade. it's better no tilt saw blade, and engine with softstart .
Handle vertical or horizontal above saw blade is okay if it is in line above the saw blade and in line with slide bar.Everything has to be in line this is important examples: bosch gcm 800 sj / gcm 8 slj professiona / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / EVOLUTION RAGE R255 sms / HITATCHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX .
.
The best you can do
buy always a miller saw white handle centered in line above the saw blade (aluminum housing) winn winn. And no handle on the side of the saw blade aluminum housing there is always torsion in the aluminum housing...
If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +- 5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw.
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blad is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut.If the saw blade is (+-0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blad.
Thank you for your response and the helpful comments, especially for the accuracy test you mentioned.
First let me say that the saws you mention, and especially the Kaypek, are all fine saws and are highly rated. Any any one of them should give you years of accurate and depenable service.
My mission, though, was to review a saw under $400.00. To me the standouts in this range are the Dewalt and the Hitachi. I chose the Dewalt because of the greater cutting capacities. I had a standard 12" miter saw before and was tired of having to use a cutting sled on my table saw all the time.
You are absolutely right about the handle though. It is the most annoying thing about the saw. I have had to learn to make cuts left handed.
The most impressive thing about the Dewalt saw has been its accuracy and its ability to stay in adjustment month after month.
Side to side deflection is negligible even when with the carriage fully
extended. I tried the test you mentioned on a 12" board and set the depth stop to cut at 1/4" deep. The saw was dead accurate. With the saw unpowered the blade slipped right in the saw kerf and traveled the entire length of the cut without friction. At least we know that the handle is mostly just an irritant and not an accuracy killer.
Again, a special thanks for telling me about this test proceedure.
Great review and a ton of information!
Thank you and I appreciate you watching!
Learning a lots of stuff in this movie thank you 😊
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
Nice review 👍
Thank you! That's always great to hear.
The 780, also has different parts on the inside, this has been verified by other TH-camrs. The 779 has cheaper parts, no xps, and the stock blade.
You are absolutely right, and Dewalt probably needs to make that clearer to the public in their promotions. They are competing against some really fine saws it the 780's price range.
I know there are differences in features. What TH-camr has mentioned cheaper internal parts? That is something I have never heard of.
@James Hill Dont remember his name, but he showed the blue prints on both which you can find online or from Dewalt. I
If I find it I'll link it.
@@michaelfahim5878 I saw the den of tools once talk about the 779 and 780 and showed internal parts diagrams. But what he implied was that the older generation 780 had heavier duty components, but now they downgraded the newer 780 to the same internals as the 779.
Salve, io ho riscontrato che il piano di lavoro non è perfettamente allineato con le basi laterali risulta più basso rispetto alle basi laterali di appoggio, ciò a mio avviso non consente tagli precisi a 90 gradi.
La macchina e la dws780 Qs tipe 12. L’ho resa per la 2 volta
Mi è stato detto da altri che le loro seghe avevano bisogno di un sacco di pubblicitàjustment al momento dell'acquisto. Sono stato solo fortunato che il mio è stato regolato correttamente quando l'ho comprato. Grazie per il tuo commento. Grazie per il tuo commento. Dove sei di? Ho dovuto usare un traduttore online, quindi spero che questo messaggio sia comprensibile.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471
Ciao si devo tradurre anch’io, sono in Italia Puglia.
Io la comprai nel 2021 e il piano rotante non era a livello con le sponde quindi fatto il reso, oggi vorrei acquistarla nuovamente ma mi sa che il problema c’è sempre
@@Sbigol106 Bene, se hai avuto sfortuna una volta, è difficile sentirsi a proprio agio nel tornare con la stessa cosa, ma ci sono un certo numero di seghe di alta qualità là fuori. Grazie.
Update information miter saw Tips and Test:
This test is only if you want to saw with precision, with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work).
Tips and Test:
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS.
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
(If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed).
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed).
Step-4. Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade.
The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade.
Step-5. When you measure the vertical angle square (Digital Angle Gaug) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing.
Conclusion:how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing don't go for that (the choices are yours).
Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
Are you familiar with the Delta 12" Cruzer? It might be a good candidate for your list. It's an articulating arm saw similar to the Bosch. I've read some positive reviews about it, but I couldn't find one at any of local retailers here in the Houston area.
The list only includes saws with handle above the saw blade, this in connection with less torsion
that is what the test is all about.
(example: Bosch GCM12SD / Bosch GCM 12 SDE. is also not in the list).
Thanks for your response. ps. greetings from the Netherlands.
Yes. You are right. The handle appeared to be centered in the pictures I saw. Amazon has several views and it is to the side. @@judithrob1591
No problem can happen otherwise it could have been on the list!
I have this saw and it is awesome. The laser is a toy for tech geeks.
Thanks for your comment David! And I agree. It's a hard saw to beat in its price range.
There’s a light kit you can buy that basically turns it into a DWS780. It’s worth the money if it’s on sale such as with Lowes right now. I bought mine on sale for $399.
Yes, I think the light kit just bolts on doesn't it?
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 I haven’t done it yet but I saw a video on it. Looks great.
@@nole8923 Well, good luck on the installation. Let me know how well it works.
Hey quick question for you. I have this miter saw when I unlock the bevel knob but the zero degree stop is not pulled out my saw goes past 0. How do I fix this??
For anyone who has this issue I just figured it out. It’s that nut with the thread locker right in front of your bevel readings you tighten and loosen it to fine tune your saw to a dead 90. But you have to turn it a little move the bevel a little and put it back in its spot and do that every time you make an adjustment otherwise your digital angle gauge will read as if you did nothing. That’s the part that was confusing me. These micro adjustments weren’t showing up until I moved the bevel after every adjustment to see how much I truly moved it. Hope this helps someone…
@@steverodgers9206 I'm glad you figured out and I think you've probably helped some other folks. It does show how to make the adjustments in your manual, but like most manuals, its hard to understand. I've never had to make this adjustment, but I occasionaly have to adjust the 22.5 deg and 33 1/3 deg. stops. Thanks for your comments.
Again I came to see a set up of a new tool not opinions// the world is full of opinions I needed a setup out of the box/
The title and thumbnail indicate "review and test". After 5 mos. an unbox and setup was not possible. I do a lot of tool videos,, so check out my channel occasionally. If I do an unboxing and set up, it will say so in the thumbnail and in the video title, and it will be comprehensive.
The 780 has a much higher spec and higher quality motor and other higher quality parts. The 779 is a "Big Box" specific model designed specifically to compete against other "BIG Box" saws.
Since making the video, I have had other comments from folks saying it had better parts and motor, but I haven't been able to find an official verification anywhere from Dewalt, but that doesn't mean it's not true. The need to get that message out. Thanks for your comment.
Thank you for the video. Do you have any idea what the black screw on the metal part of the blade guard is for? It's on the left of the saw as you're facing it, and it gets covered by the blade guard arm when the saw is fully lowered. The screw doesn't seem to connect to anything and I am trying to figure out if it is for an accessory or what. Mysterious. Great saw.
There are three black screws on the left. The two in the center loosen the guard so it will lift for blade changes. There is also a small mystery screw to the left of these two which, I think, is the one you are talking about. It seems to have no purpose and it is not even shown on the parts diagrams, nor is it mentioned in the manual. Wish I could be more help.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Thanks for the response! That screw ended up pinning a broken piece of the dust deflector (OEM N630004) right up against the saw blade. So, I thought it was to sort of hold the dust deflector until I replaced the shattered dust deflector and saw that they don't touch at all. That screw was screwed all the way in, so maybe it's a safety feature to stop the blade from spinning if it starts wobbling or gets off plumb... I also couldn't find any mention of that screw in the manual, and if I find out I'll come back and let you know. That's again and happy building. Sweet setup you have!
@@vero0992 You have my curiosity stirred up now. If you find out I would like to know. You may be right about it's purpose.
I hope to maybe do a video on how to build my dust collection system in the future.
Thanks for your comments and for the follow up.
Just bought is saw at Lowe's for $319.21. The catch was I had to get a Lowe's credit card which gave me a 20% discount from the sales price of $399.00
That's a really good reason to buy from Lowes. I just purchased a new lawn mower and they gave me a 5% discount when I used my existing card. Thanks for the comment!
I bought the DWS779 mounted it on the Ridgid Universal Mitre Saw stand, it all folds away in seconds and takes up very little space when folded in my two car garage. I do most of my cutting outside in my backyard, because I enjoy being outside. It all rolls over the door threshold easily and sets up in seconds.
Thanks for your comment Moe. It sounds like you have a good system going on!
I too have mounted my saw to a wheeled miter saw stand ... in my case an older Rigid flat topped stand (like the one shown here: homefixated.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/2-old-msuv.jpg) which I had previously used with my Craftsman miter saw. I prefer using a miter saw stand, as it permits the saw to more easily be moved to and around a job site. It also preserves space in my relatively small basement shop. When collapsed and standing vertically, it takes up relatively little floorspace. The DWS779 has a much larger footprint than my prior Craftsman 10" miter saw and occupies almost the entire length of the flat mounting surface.
I was checking through my old messages and noticed that I did not respond to your comments. My apologies. I think it is probably easier to deal with the saw's size if its on a moveable stand. I had to rebuild a 16' long wall mounted table.
First of all, his dust collection system for the saw is real slick. Secondly, the best _honest_ real-world review of this saw's features and pros and cons I've seen. This saw is a steal at the typical $349 from Amazon and HD, but I picked it up for $224 (brand new, free shipping) from eBay the other day. It was listed as "used" (multiple listing) by the seller for $299, but when he noticed me (and I assume other lurkers) viewing the listing, he emailed me and offered to sell it for $224. I immediately bit. When I received it, it was obviously brand-new (factory-sealed box and plastic bags - not a refurb). I'm guessing it was originally HD overstock. It is what I think is the latest iteration - type 22. So there's type 1, then type 20, 21, and now 22 versions of this saw. (The type # is printed on the motor label).
I have plenty of room to accommodate the saw (the depth of it goes on for days, as mentioned), and the only thing I found disconcerting - but understandable - is the kickback when pulling the trigger. I have the "toy" version of this saw - the battery-powered 7 1/4" slider (which I love for cutting small items) but it takes a little bit to ramp up to speed, which is somewhat annoying, and is a little underpowered for cutting anything over 1x stock and certainly anything 1x and over that you have to use the sliding mechanism for. (Otherwise it's the fine quality of the 779). The 779 with its non-soft start 15 amp motor chews through 2x stock faster than you can blink. It is a beast. I have a cheap HF 10" Makita knockoff slider that is slow to ramp up to speed as well, and that can be an annoyance - so the kickback torque of the 779 I can live with.
The 32-tooth blade that came with it produces pretty rough (splinters) cuts, however, so I'm looking at investing in a higher tooth-count blade for some stuff.
The type 22 version I bought completely eliminates the locking lever shown at 4:37 (I can't yet speculate as to why), and if there are any other changes, I've yet to discover them.
I'll be investing in the XPS light system (~$69 as an aftermarket add-on) at some point. I love the similar system on my Dewalt 20 volt 7 1/4 slider, because it is _very_ accurate, and doesn't go out of whack the way a laser is prone to do. (It casts a shadow line instead of a laser line). You can also switch it on and check your cut line without having to run the blade at the same time.
Again, thanks for this very informative review!
Thanks for your positive comments and congratulations on getting in on a killer deal! It never seems to happen for me.
I have not seen the Type 22 yet, but I understand from another viewer that the 22.5 & 33 1/3 degrees bevel stop paws have also been removed from the saw. I demonstrated their use at the 5:50 mark in the video. Does your saw have these paws?
I bought the type 22 several weeks ago, it doesn’t have either the locking lever or the pawls.
@@icewingdog Thanks for the information Dan. Most of the reviews I have seen on youtube or months old and do not alert folks to the changes with the new model. It,s a shame that they have eliminates such useful things.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 agreed. It appears that you can’t install them either without drilling and tapping the base, although I could be wrong.
Oops. I missed your response. I think you are right. I don't see anything predrilled or tapped on the saw that would facilitate their installation.
Great video! Just bought this saw today and put a Diablo 100 tooth blade. Thanks for the tutorial!
Glad you liked it and thanks for watching!
Thanks a bunch for making this video, I was trying to understand why the saw i bought was around $350 and others were upwards of $550. I thought maybe I got a lower quality product. I have dozens of dewalt's fine tools and always worry that eventually they will start producing lower quality. Although i wish this saw was a bit more powerful, it does the job most of the time.
Glad I could help. The saw has always been more than adequate for the work I do. So far as the quality issue is concerned, Dewalt's tactics seem to be to drop features rather than cheapening the saw itself. They have dropped the bevel pawls and the slide latch in the new type 22 model. Thanks for you comment.
I bought this saw last night for 399.....
Also, that motor starting up is a beast. I was taken aback by that. I've used the lesser dewalt miter saws in the past. Nowhere near that level of power.
My last miter saw was a Dewalt 12" fixed (did not slide) and it was very strong. I used it for 12 years and then gave it to my son and it still works great. Thanks for watching.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 I'm a dewalt guy.
I have the planer, miter, grinders, drills, impacts, etc etc etc. If they made a jointer I'd have that too.
@@ButBigger42 I have had many over the years and, as a matter of fact, I am still using them. They are hard to wear out.
@@ButBigger42 If my old Delta ever quits, I want the Dewalt benchtop planer for a replacement.
One more difference with the 779 vs 780...the bevel lock knob on the 780 is cast metal. On the 779, it looks to be black plastic. I would think the metal would be more durable, especially if you use the saw often. You can see the black plastic knob at the shot at 5:42 .
Yes, you're right. this was a miss on my part. The plastic handle is sturdy, but plastic will eventually fail. I think the handle on the 780 is cast aluminum.
The older type 20 779 was steel. I agree a downgrade on the type 21 & 22.
I really can't decide on this (dws779) or the ridgid r4222.... Have to pick one up tomorrow. Anyone have any thoughts?
Hello Cee Bee! Before you make a decision, check out this video: th-cam.com/video/cAPV27vnDas/w-d-xo.html Dewalt has made a couple of changes to the 779 you should be aware of. Thanks for watching.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 thanks ended up picking up the ridgid.... About to set it up now... Fingers crossed.
@@EYECOMEINPEACE The Ridgid was on my short list when I was in the market for a saw. You should be happy with it.
Thank you for the video. Very informative and you did a great job editing.
Thanks for the kind words, I hope it was helpful. Dewalt has introduced the new model 22 and has omitted a couple of features. I issued a follow up video to address those. Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/cAPV27vnDas/w-d-xo.html