Quality video for both content and editing! I do something similar, but I direct the cone directly into the hive box, which then has an exit for regular entry/exit. (Structurally, I do this with a mini-box with the cone, mounted next to the full-size box, with a 1" passage connecting the two.) This is easier on a wall, more difficult in a tree...
I was just asked to remove bees from a tree last night and didn't know what to do. An old retired beekeeper shared with me what he would do. After watching several videos, I found this one which is 1) very well put together and 2) exactly what he told me to do. I'm a visual learning, so having the video and explanation really will help. I'll let you know how it goes. Question: do you expect the bees to create a new queen from eggs you placed in the hive or do you expect the queen to exit the tree and find her way into the new hive or something else? Thanks again!
@@HinterlandBees this worked out very well. In fact, I extracted one tree hive in about 2 weeks (it was only there for a week or so before I got to it) and used my own queen. Another hive in a tree that was established for 4-6 weeks took only a few weeks to remove and I even found the queen had taken up residence in my box as well. I appreciate your help with this. Your video is excellent and really did me some good.
I wonder if you can combine this method with the forced abscond method where you drill a hole at the base of the hive somewhere and smoke them from below. This way gets them out quicker and might actually get the queen to come out as well.
You rarely capture the queen from inside the tree. Because a trap out can take several weeks, the trapped out bees need a queen asap, long before the tree queen leaves the nest. You can read more here: www.hinterlandbees.com/articles/the-art-of-the-trap-out
I did this, and in addition I put a queen in a queen cage in the new hive box., plus a couple of drops of lemon oil in the new box. It worked great! The tree was later removed . Took the bees to an Avocado ranch , about twenty miles away, then they all took off a couple days later 😠!!!
Well executed, lucky to use your nimble fingers. Our lovely defensive Bees will noooot have it. Not in favor of poly. yet curious as to the lighter box -model type you have used? [going to be relocating two nested swarms in Trees that need to be felled in a Plantation situ. I am an entomologist so first time asked to assist a forester friend] greetings from SA
While every trapout is different, she most likely will leave in a small swarm when nectar and pollen in the hive is exhausted. Occasionally she will find her way into the trap out box but there is no guarantee.
@@0hleg yes, or add a frame with eggs so that can make a new queen. Here’s a link to an article on how I do it: www.hinterlandbees.com/articles/the-art-of-the-trap-out
how do you NOT get stung ? I thought they would be mad when you start in there especially with tools. ?? I have a similar nest and if you get near it, they seem to swarm you.
Each colony has a different temperament and some are more defensive than others. From experience I have a good idea of how defensive a colony will be and how much protection is required. Always having a bee smoker handy is also essential!
Over the course of 3 to 5 weeks this process will remove all of the bees from the tree. This particular nest was in the middle of a school playground, necessitating its removal. In Australia, feral colonies occupy cavities which would otherwise be homes to native creatures which maybe another reason to relocate bees into a managed hive.
The queen won’t exit until the end and rarely ends up in the catch box. This method doesn’t catch the queen which is why I add one at the beginning of the process. The catch the queen you can attempt a forced abscond or do an eduction (Price Method).
filzweiber the funnel exit needs to be big enough for at least 2 bees. Bees need to be able to remove dead bees from the nest and if the hole in the funnel is too small it will create a blockage. Provided the funnel is made from a mesh that the bees can see and smell through, they will always try to re-enter the nest at the base of the funnel, not through the hole at the tip.
Just make one mate, use fly screen mesh that you can get here in Australia or some sort of metal mesh so the bees can't chew through it and do as this guy did
But the Queen dies, and all the grubs die. !!!!! I am not being a pain here, i am asking.. Because a friend of mine, has this exact problem. I think he is soo lucky, to have wild bees year after year. But he has apartment to rent, and kid got stung :-( To move his bees, do the Queen have to die. ????
If the bees nest is in an apartment, the option is a cut-out removal (I show that in our other videos). When the nest is removed by cut-out, the queen, brood and bees are saved 😁
@@HinterlandBees Sorry i worded my original comment very poorly. His problem is, he has an old Ash tree with a big hole in it. And the hive is in that hole. But his problem is, the tree is right alongside the door of the apartment. Is it possible to relocate queen and all her troop out of this tree.Thanks for the reply.
Oh I see. All of the brood will hatch an the queen will eventually leave. I wrote an article about it here: hinterlandbees.com/articles#/the-art-of-the-trapout
I had a friend do this with another queen in the trap box. When the bees couldn’t get back to the old queen they took to the new. After the colony started work in the trap box after a week with their new queen he then removed the cone. The bees went back into the hive over the following week and killed the old queen and 1/4 remaining bees then stole all the honey and brought it to trap box. I’m not sure how this will work without another queen unless the queen leaves too??
I always use a queen in the trap-box too. Removing the cone too early can result in you ending up with two colonies and not removing the colony from the tree, but I agree that your friend's technique can work and you can get the bonus honey harvest too. Personally I would leave it two or three weeks to remove the cone to ensure that the tree colony was very weakened. If there was a good nectar flow, the trapped out bees would be unlikely to rob the tree colony, so you'd need to wait for a nectar dearth to give it the best chance of working.
why is he doing this without proper gear? he might be a professional but i wouldn't suggest others do this without proper gears to protect yourselves. Nice video either way! Thank you.
Quality video for both content and editing! I do something similar, but I direct the cone directly into the hive box, which then has an exit for regular entry/exit. (Structurally, I do this with a mini-box with the cone, mounted next to the full-size box, with a 1" passage connecting the two.) This is easier on a wall, more difficult in a tree...
I was just asked to remove bees from a tree last night and didn't know what to do. An old retired beekeeper shared with me what he would do. After watching several videos, I found this one which is 1) very well put together and 2) exactly what he told me to do. I'm a visual learning, so having the video and explanation really will help. I'll let you know how it goes.
Question: do you expect the bees to create a new queen from eggs you placed in the hive or do you expect the queen to exit the tree and find her way into the new hive or something else?
Thanks again!
Ohios Nuccadoc you would expect the colony to make a new queen from the eggs. Here us some more info:
hinterlandbees.com/the-art-of-the-trapout
@@HinterlandBees this worked out very well. In fact, I extracted one tree hive in about 2 weeks (it was only there for a week or so before I got to it) and used my own queen. Another hive in a tree that was established for 4-6 weeks took only a few weeks to remove and I even found the queen had taken up residence in my box as well. I appreciate your help with this. Your video is excellent and really did me some good.
Very nice. I have a trunk removal to do this weekend.
I hope it helps. Good luck
Good way. Thank you. Is it possible for the queen to come out, leave her old frames and the brood, and go out to the new box
Excelente técnica, Parabéns pelo trabalho! Grande abraço do Brasil!
Many thanks for helping on this same problem. Regards from Mexico......
Wow you are real expert... queen trap inside or she is decided join new hive ?
I wonder if you can combine this method with the forced abscond method where you drill a hole at the base of the hive somewhere and smoke them from below. This way gets them out quicker and might actually get the queen to come out as well.
How do you make the cone?
Incredible video thank you.
I use an aluminium mesh. The holes need to be small enough that the bees can’t get through
why there is a queen in the box, when the tree should already have a queen?
thank you for insights
You rarely capture the queen from inside the tree. Because a trap out can take several weeks, the trapped out bees need a queen asap, long before the tree queen leaves the nest. You can read more here: www.hinterlandbees.com/articles/the-art-of-the-trap-out
What is the quickest way to just kill them all? This seems like too much stuffing around.
Does the queen also move into the box?
What a great idea!!
I did this, and in addition I put a queen in a queen cage in the new hive box., plus a couple of drops of lemon oil in the new box. It worked great! The tree was later removed . Took the bees to an Avocado ranch , about twenty miles away, then they all took off a couple days later 😠!!!
Does the queen come along with this method?
Thanks for education and sher idea sukses for u
Well executed, lucky to use your nimble fingers. Our lovely defensive Bees will noooot have it. Not in favor of poly. yet curious as to the lighter box -model type you have used? [going to be relocating two nested swarms in Trees that need to be felled in a Plantation situ. I am an entomologist so first time asked to assist a forester friend] greetings from SA
Can you explane how do you remove queen from the tree? Thanks in advance
Can you tell us what the materials were used to put the screens together that are shown at the beginning of the video? Thankyou in advance!
Thanks for saving the bees 😍 and sorry my english is not too good, what are the names of the tools that you used in this video?
Does the queen also relocate?
What happens with the queen when you do this?
While every trapout is different, she most likely will leave in a small swarm when nectar and pollen in the hive is exhausted. Occasionally she will find her way into the trap out box but there is no guarantee.
@@HinterlandBees so I’ll have to prob buy a queen and place it with then?
@@0hleg yes, or add a frame with eggs so that can make a new queen. Here’s a link to an article on how I do it: www.hinterlandbees.com/articles/the-art-of-the-trap-out
Very clever
how do you NOT get stung ? I thought they would be mad when you start in there especially with tools. ?? I have a similar nest and if you get near it, they seem to swarm you.
Each colony has a different temperament and some are more defensive than others. From experience I have a good idea of how defensive a colony will be and how much protection is required. Always having a bee smoker handy is also essential!
What did happened with The Queen Bee?
Carlos Chinin the queen will eventually leave in a swarm with the last of the bees
it dies from hunger...
@@freddies515 with all the honey left behind?
Did the queen bee go in the trap house??
No, the queen will only leave at the end of the process with a small swarm and is unlikely to end up in the trap box
What happens to the bees??
So this just traps the foragers and not the queen and nurse bees? Unless you just want the bees out of the tree I don't really see the point.
Over the course of 3 to 5 weeks this process will remove all of the bees from the tree. This particular nest was in the middle of a school playground, necessitating its removal. In Australia, feral colonies occupy cavities which would otherwise be homes to native creatures which maybe another reason to relocate bees into a managed hive.
Do you think the queen eventually finds her way to the trap box?
Does the queen come out of the hive as well?
The queen won’t exit until the end and rarely ends up in the catch box. This method doesn’t catch the queen which is why I add one at the beginning of the process. The catch the queen you can attempt a forced abscond or do an eduction (Price Method).
@@HinterlandBees yeah righto I didn’t think she’d just happily walk out.
can you tell me how small is the funnel exit so the bees cant get back in please?
filzweiber the funnel exit needs to be big enough for at least 2 bees. Bees need to be able to remove dead bees from the nest and if the hole in the funnel is too small it will create a blockage.
Provided the funnel is made from a mesh that the bees can see and smell through, they will always try to re-enter the nest at the base of the funnel, not through the hole at the tip.
I wanna see again trap out bee
How do you find someone in your area to remove the bees from tree like this?? I have a honey bee probllem.
Just google beekeeper. Call the person and maybe he can help you
Where are you located?
Where can you purchase a trap out funnel?
Just make one mate, use fly screen mesh that you can get here in Australia or some sort of metal mesh so the bees can't chew through it and do as this guy did
But the Queen dies, and all the grubs die. !!!!!
I am not being a pain here, i am asking..
Because a friend of mine, has this exact problem.
I think he is soo lucky, to have wild bees year after year.
But he has apartment to rent, and kid got stung :-(
To move his bees, do the Queen have to die. ????
If the bees nest is in an apartment, the option is a cut-out removal (I show that in our other videos). When the nest is removed by cut-out, the queen, brood and bees are saved 😁
@@HinterlandBees Sorry i worded my original comment very poorly. His problem is, he has an old Ash tree with a big hole in it. And the hive is in that hole. But his problem is, the tree is right alongside the door of the apartment. Is it possible to relocate queen and all her troop out of this tree.Thanks for the reply.
Oh I see. All of the brood will hatch an the queen will eventually leave. I wrote an article about it here:
hinterlandbees.com/articles#/the-art-of-the-trapout
@@HinterlandBees Thank you very much. :-)
I had a friend do this with another queen in the trap box. When the bees couldn’t get back to the old queen they took to the new. After the colony started work in the trap box after a week with their new queen he then removed the cone. The bees went back into the hive over the following week and killed the old queen and 1/4 remaining bees then stole all the honey and brought it to trap box. I’m not sure how this will work without another queen unless the queen leaves too??
I always use a queen in the trap-box too. Removing the cone too early can result in you ending up with two colonies and not removing the colony from the tree, but I agree that your friend's technique can work and you can get the bonus honey harvest too. Personally I would leave it two or three weeks to remove the cone to ensure that the tree colony was very weakened. If there was a good nectar flow, the trapped out bees would be unlikely to rob the tree colony, so you'd need to wait for a nectar dearth to give it the best chance of working.
why is he doing this without proper gear? he might be a professional but i wouldn't suggest others do this without proper gears to protect yourselves. Nice video either way! Thank you.
Are those bees stingless bees??, why are they not attacking or stinging you please?
Just regular European bees with gentle characteristics 😁
Wow
❤how praces day fainly fnishing
I really like the Woodglut plans.
1
th-cam.com/users/shortsnpQehobFYKY?si=g9j3mPrXv3ArxT6Y is it possible or not for trapping the honey bees
Can u give me your id bro insta or something else I had to discuss something
How come the bees didn't stong the man?
До конца снимайте когда все будут в улике