I am glad to see that someone is still making these. There was a Mike Brandt from Minnesota selling these in the past but was told that he was no longer with us.
That is what I found out as well from my research. The idea was brilliant and i needed one desperately, however, upon finding that out, we started machining these in house and changed a few things to make them a little easier to install!
You will find my contact information in the description! you can either order from ebay or via paypal, i lowered the price about 8 months ago so the cost will be the same either way!
I just ordered one of your bolts. I was sitting there trying to weld the old broken bolt to the back of the plug and gave up. I came to the internet to look for a solution and you did not disappoint. this is the same thing I was going for but I failed.
2centz genius Thank you for the order! I will be shipping it in the morning. this will be the solution to your issue! if there is anything else I can do feel free to email me!
I wish I would have known about this a couple weeks ago when I did my timing chain I just redrilled it tapped it I put a sleeve in the guide to keep it from moving
Addition to "Why the gap is needed": When the engine gets warm (and hot) the metals expand. The redesigned one piece bolt and the block might not get along and crack/warp something if they're slammed against each other as tightly as possible. The slight tolerance makes sense to avoid such an issue.
Can I replace this bolt without taking the valve cover off or anything? Just remove the cap/bolt, remove the guide bolt and put this in? or do I need the valve cover off to make sure (visually) it's going in properly?
for everyone asking about the bottom bolt, mine looked just like his, I used a time cert (bought on Amazon) drilled it, counterbore, tapped, then drove the insert in, it worked extremely well just to be safe I added a little jb weld to ensure the time cert wouldn't back out.
@@jayfralix9171 yes, I pulled the motor, I did an entire overhaul in the engine, so it was easier. I'm not sure if you would have room to do it in car, but on an engine stand, plenty of room
@@chrisdevroy3172 I’m going to try it in the car with a heil coil I’m going to undo all motor mounts and try to jack the motor up on the passenger side and hope I got enough room
@@jayfralix9171 i wouldn't recommend a helicoil, just my take on it. time cert is much more reliable. I went with the time cert because if it doesn't hold, could lead to catastrophic failure. I want to say the time cert was like $50 on Amazon, to me it was worth it knowing it has the best chance of success
Thanks for sharing! I just bought a Equinox with a 2.4L and it looks like the top bolt worked it's way out then all the problems started. Edit: Actually discovered it did snap off but the threaded end also worked it's way out of the bolt hole. I found it in the oil pickup tube along with pieces of the black guide which means they drove it for a little bit before it jumped time and wouldn't start. Still don't know if the engine was damaged yet.
Yeah i had the same problem, and i was hearing the chain knocking inside but only in extra load situation on the engine and i went to more mechanics and told them that i hear my chain lose and they look at me like i was crazy, till i decided that i wanted to change the water pump and they had to open the lid that covers the timing chain and well surprise, the chain was running on that bolt, that black tension part was non existent and bad for me that i wanted to change the water pump at the dealership and i ended up to pay a huge bill because they changed everything that has to do with the timing chain, sadly after this change after a few km/miles of running with the new chain i got a low oil check light and i started to have this knocking noise from the engine. I`m still dealing with the engine knock now, but interestingly it`s always when the engine is hot and sometimes is a stronger knock and sometimes it`s less know or at all, after i changed the control valves because they started to give me check engine errors I barely can hear the knock or not at all. sadly when i changed the control valves i found some metal flakes on the valves with a lot of gunk black residue.
Trying to thread this bolt without stripping it , not having fun .Almost seems like its bigger than the old plug ,but it is'nt after comparing the two. Going back out to try. I would advise a mandatory oil pan drop and clean or expect all the work o9f timing chain and guide replacement will only fail. I retreaved a handful of little pieces of plastic and bolt pieces in mine .
Are you familiar with any possible replacement guide bolts kit to replace the good originals to prevent them from breaking after replacing the chain? I just did my timing chain and I'd like to do all possible to prevent the damage.
Can you replace the upper guide bolt with your's as preventative maintenance or will the guide move when the old bolt is removed and then I'd have pull entire timing cover off and realign guide?
I used the dorman part when i replaced the timing chain and the bolt came out once and I lost all the oil. I put another one in and the threads on the heads for the big bolt are stripped and it fell out again and lost all the oil on the interstate. Any idea why this keeps happening and how in the world can I fix it without replacing the head.
@@diego-eliz i tried to unsuccessfully drill the bottom had no luck couldnt get a bit to cut, tried to swap an 07 engine in but that motor runs a different crank sensor and also runs a cam sensor the 05 didnt
Were you able to figure out some solution for the lower guide bolt? Mine is broken in the same way you describe it in the video, I haven't checked the upper one, I think it is broken or missing, since the same guide you shown in the video (broken exactly the same way yours is broken) came off by just pulling it out from the engine
We are still working on the Design / Patent for the broken lower bolt solution. I am hoping that we will have a kit setup and ready for sale in the next 2 months!
No pressure, but it's been 3 months :). And I've got a lower bolt that's almost as bad as the one in the video. Is your new design almost ready? You seem very knowledgeable and experienced with this problem. Is a plain old screw extractor an option?
@@flyhigh5755 yup got new timing chain kit. And it runs great. Had to pull motor out from the top sense I don't have a lift. But it took about 6 hours from time it went into my shop to the time I drove it out.
After around 100'000miles/160'000km would be a good time for the (first) Ecotec timing chain work to be done as the likelyhood of problems with the system increases. This includes a possible shearing of the top guide bolt, but also a failing tensioner (most commonly; was upgraded and part is standard in kits now). Use upgraded parts such as this one to eliminate possible issues in the future and increase confidence in a long(er) interval/distance before second chain change is needed. Lack of maintenace of the engine (oil) will aid the shearing issue and further problems in the timing chain system.
jmcfadden002 yes they do. the price has been updated since the video has been posted. The cost has been lowered to $35.00 USD plus shipping. Good quality is worth it's weight in gold!
The doorman bolt is lower quality . The O.D. Of the thread dia of the one I bought was 21.6 mm instead of just under 22mm . It came loose after about 30,000 miles . I got lucky and caught the issue while only being 1.5 qts low on oil and a big puddle of oil on the ground . I had to find a tap to clear out the threads this time and bought another doorman but I’m looking to have a better one like this one made . I also added some loctite 271 to hopefully hold it in better .
Ozzie check the thread O.D. of the doorman . My mechanic installed one and it came loose and fell out after 30,000 miles . It was only 21.6 mm instead of 22mm . I didn’t ruin my engine but for now I’m stuck with another doorman and would gladly pay the $55 for a better made one if I could find it .
I am glad to see that someone is still making these. There was a Mike Brandt from Minnesota selling these in the past but was told that he was no longer with us.
That is what I found out as well from my research. The idea was brilliant and i needed one desperately, however, upon finding that out, we started machining these in house and changed a few things to make them a little easier to install!
I need one... Just did balance and timing chain on equinox and ended up dropping oil pan to clean all the plastic and metal out from guide falure
You will find my contact information in the description! you can either order from ebay or via paypal, i lowered the price about 8 months ago so the cost will be the same either way!
@@havukindustries3929 do y’all still make these and what about the lower guide bolt?
Doesn't Dorman make these? on Amazon?
I just ordered one of your bolts. I was sitting there trying to weld the old broken bolt to the back of the plug and gave up. I came to the internet to look for a solution and you did not disappoint. this is the same thing I was going for but I failed.
2centz genius Thank you for the order! I will be shipping it in the morning. this will be the solution to your issue! if there is anything else I can do feel free to email me!
Havuk Industries I received my bolt this morning and got it installed. I would have been screwed without it.
imgur.com/Ue6g5bG
I wish I would have known about this a couple weeks ago when I did my timing chain I just redrilled it tapped it I put a sleeve in the guide to keep it from moving
Addition to "Why the gap is needed":
When the engine gets warm (and hot) the metals expand. The redesigned one piece bolt and the block might not get along and crack/warp something if they're slammed against each other as tightly as possible. The slight tolerance makes sense to avoid such an issue.
Can I replace this bolt without taking the valve cover off or anything? Just remove the cap/bolt, remove the guide bolt and put this in? or do I need the valve cover off to make sure (visually) it's going in properly?
for everyone asking about the bottom bolt, mine looked just like his, I used a time cert (bought on Amazon) drilled it, counterbore, tapped, then drove the insert in, it worked extremely well
just to be safe I added a little jb weld to ensure the time cert wouldn't back out.
Did you remove the motor do drill the lower bolt
@@jayfralix9171 yes, I pulled the motor, I did an entire overhaul in the engine, so it was easier. I'm not sure if you would have room to do it in car, but on an engine stand, plenty of room
@@chrisdevroy3172 I’m going to try it in the car with a heil coil I’m going to undo all motor mounts and try to jack the motor up on the passenger side and hope I got enough room
@@jayfralix9171 i wouldn't recommend a helicoil, just my take on it. time cert is much more reliable. I went with the time cert because if it doesn't hold, could lead to catastrophic failure. I want to say the time cert was like $50 on Amazon, to me it was worth it knowing it has the best chance of success
Thanks for sharing! I just bought a Equinox with a 2.4L and it looks like the top bolt worked it's way out then all the problems started.
Edit: Actually discovered it did snap off but the threaded end also worked it's way out of the bolt hole. I found it in the oil pickup tube along with pieces of the black guide which means they drove it for a little bit before it jumped time and wouldn't start. Still don't know if the engine was damaged yet.
Was engine damaged
@@flyhigh5755 no
Yeah i had the same problem, and i was hearing the chain knocking inside but only in extra load situation on the engine and i went to more mechanics and told them that i hear my chain lose and they look at me like i was crazy, till i decided that i wanted to change the water pump and they had to open the lid that covers the timing chain and well surprise, the chain was running on that bolt, that black tension part was non existent and bad for me that i wanted to change the water pump at the dealership and i ended up to pay a huge bill because they changed everything that has to do with the timing chain, sadly after this change after a few km/miles of running with the new chain i got a low oil check light and i started to have this knocking noise from the engine. I`m still dealing with the engine knock now, but interestingly it`s always when the engine is hot and sometimes is a stronger knock and sometimes it`s less know or at all, after i changed the control valves because they started to give me check engine errors I barely can hear the knock or not at all. sadly when i changed the control valves i found some metal flakes on the valves with a lot of gunk black residue.
I have found a set of 3 for the left side bolt and the two on the right side with different designs
Trying to thread this bolt without stripping it , not having fun .Almost seems like its bigger than the old plug ,but it is'nt after comparing the two. Going back out to try. I would advise a mandatory oil pan drop and clean or expect all the work o9f timing chain and guide replacement will only fail. I retreaved a handful of little pieces of plastic and bolt pieces in mine .
Are you familiar with any possible replacement guide bolts kit to replace the good originals to prevent them from breaking after replacing the chain? I just did my timing chain and I'd like to do all possible to prevent the damage.
Did you make the guide for bottom one mine failed there not the top now it's drill it or put in motor
Can you replace the upper guide bolt with your's as preventative maintenance or will the guide move when the old bolt is removed and then I'd have pull entire timing cover off and realign guide?
Where do I buy this I need ASAP ??
Part #917-954 does the same thing thanks doorman
Thank you 3 years later😂
Better than factory, good job!!!!!!
I used the dorman part when i replaced the timing chain and the bolt came out once and I lost all the oil. I put another one in and the threads on the heads for the big bolt are stripped and it fell out again and lost all the oil on the interstate. Any idea why this keeps happening and how in the world can I fix it without replacing the head.
What of the bottom plug. its warped an cant use a new bolt
Can this be changed without messing up the timing chain? Wanting to do this as preventative maintenance . Thanks
Had the same question but looks like he doesn't respond to anyone...
I changed mine it doesnt mess anything up. at 115k miles with no timing belt replacement yet. probably due soon@@THRobinson
Did you come up with something for the lower? I have the same issue on mine
i am having the same issue what did you do?
@@diego-eliz i tried to unsuccessfully drill the bottom had no luck couldnt get a bit to cut, tried to swap an 07 engine in but that motor runs a different crank sensor and also runs a cam sensor the 05 didnt
Me too
@@flyhigh5755 I fixed this by using a helicoil
did you happen to find a solution for the lower guide bolt?
So how do you fix the bottom bolt the new problem
did you happen to find a solution for the bottom guide bolt?
what size sucket fits the access plug?
Were you able to figure out some solution for the lower guide bolt? Mine is broken in the same way you describe it in the video, I haven't checked the upper one, I think it is broken or missing, since the same guide you shown in the video (broken exactly the same way yours is broken) came off by just pulling it out from the engine
We are still working on the Design / Patent for the broken lower bolt solution. I am hoping that we will have a kit setup and ready for sale in the next 2 months!
Havuk Industries that is good news, still struggling to get the broken lower bolt out
shoot me an email with your contact info.
el vitor Yes a lower fix would be great with the broke bolt still stuck in there just like the upper
No pressure, but it's been 3 months :). And I've got a lower bolt that's almost as bad as the one in the video. Is your new design almost ready?
You seem very knowledgeable and experienced with this problem. Is a plain old screw extractor an option?
Do you have a link of the bottom one?
did you happen to find a solution for the bottom guide bolt?
@@chrisdevroy3172yes, I rethread a new one
The link doesn't take you to your ebay store
So I'm working on getting the bottom bolt out. It was broken and the reason it skipped timing.
Did yu fix it
@@flyhigh5755 yup got new timing chain kit. And it runs great. Had to pull motor out from the top sense I don't have a lift. But it took about 6 hours from time it went into my shop to the time I drove it out.
What did you do about the bottom bolt
I have a new timing chain but my top and bottom bolt are both just like in the video not shure what to do now
@@flyhigh5755 the broken part of the bolt came out easy once I took engine out. And I just ordered a new one off of rock auto.
Dame I need one of them right now
what size sucket is access plug hole
Still no fix for bottom bolt?
Anyone still working on these 2.4l engines. Dorman does make this bolt as well 917-914
Hi how can I order your product
Is there a mileage that this guide will probably be an issue?
1
After around 100'000miles/160'000km would be a good time for the (first) Ecotec timing chain work to be done as the likelyhood of problems with the system increases. This includes a possible shearing of the top guide bolt, but also a failing tensioner (most commonly; was upgraded and part is standard in kits now). Use upgraded parts such as this one to eliminate possible issues in the future and increase confidence in a long(er) interval/distance before second chain change is needed. Lack of maintenace of the engine (oil) will aid the shearing issue and further problems in the timing chain system.
Xxxxxxxxdfssd
How to get that bottom bolt out?
I welded a bead on the bolt enough to grab the weld with vise grips and got it out.
We have bolts back in stock!!!!
How much and how fast can u get it to me mab198390@gmail.com is my email. Need one asap thnx
How do I get the bottom bolt that broken off the bottom glide
I need one asap please. Question how can I get a hold of you directly sir?
And will the new bolt fit threw the guide hole where the original bolt goes through and hold the guide snug
I need now asap. shaundeleon28@gmail.com
G.M. Made that guide out of plastic dumb idea
Anyone get there bottom bolt out
That's a bit pricey on that bolt Dorman sells the same thing or 12 bucks
jmcfadden002 yes they do. the price has been updated since the video has been posted. The cost has been lowered to $35.00 USD plus shipping. Good quality is worth it's weight in gold!
Price, part # and website to order
The doorman bolt is lower quality . The O.D. Of the thread dia of the one I bought was 21.6 mm instead of just under 22mm . It came loose after about 30,000 miles . I got lucky and caught the issue while only being 1.5 qts low on oil and a big puddle of oil on the ground . I had to find a tap to clear out the threads this time and bought another doorman but I’m looking to have a better one like this one made . I also added some loctite 271 to hopefully hold it in better .
Same issue 2.2 liter broken bottom bolt.
Cheap hardware and shit design, planned obsolescence.
Did yu fix it
$9.90 on Amazon and it's a Dorman brand. $55 plus shipping???????????????????????????????????? You still need to put Anti-seize on the threads.
Ozzie check the thread O.D. of the doorman . My mechanic installed one and it came loose and fell out after 30,000 miles . It was only 21.6 mm instead of 22mm . I didn’t ruin my engine but for now I’m stuck with another doorman and would gladly pay the $55 for a better made one if I could find it .