@@aidanrussell-smith4619 trutracs are basically maintenance free because there are no clutch discs that wear out. trutrac diffs have no wearable parts and only need fluid changed. overall it is a simpler design which makes it more durable. however, the limited slip clutch style is more "smooth" in its driver feel and operation. only downside is, it needs more maintenance because there are wearable parts. trurac is worry free. LSD w/clutch packs are smoother. both are good to go.
I've been running Eaton TrueTracs for so long, I've forgot how G80s act. That turning is actually skidding on which ever tire is in the inside of the turn. You can do it on flat pavement turning, with enough power and as long as you pour the power in and keep turning it will keep skidding the tire, as they are turning 50/50. No way I would EVER CONSIDER a G80 ever again. At the lightest notion the tires are not turning at the same speed, it equally splits the power. Definitely a hand full when it rains and you take off too hard. Be safe!
When you were turning sharp on the roundabout.. you would hage any other locker doing that. Keep the True Trac. It is absolutely perfect for your use! You'll really dislike having your tires wear like crazy and chirp and time you turn on pavement.
I got a 85 c10 with a 10 bolt 8.5 ring gear. I'm sticking newer 30 spline axles, ring gear, pinion and carrier for an 8.6 10 bolt rear end in my 8.5 ring gear setup. You can do this with the proper bearing kit. I've heard it's just as strong as a 12 bolt. I'm also going with Eaton truetrac. I'm going with 4.11 and 28in tires with 700 R4 Transmission. So a pretty Torquey setup. At 45 miles an hour I should be running around 2600 RPM. Which is right around my stall. So when I hit the gas I'll get the speed and responsiveness that I want. My rear tires are 325 50 R15. So I should hook up pretty well
Nice review, man! Glad to see you and the c10 back out again! I feel like the one thing your tire burning C10 really needs is a line lock - the true tire burning button!
Thank you for this video. I've always been a Locker dude and I still want one for my old Plymouth and I have been hearing good things about the Truetrac
YCT hope the TrueTrac is still treating you well... I do have to say it's my preference over the clutch style as it's maintenance free and should give you many years of trouble free service as long as you don't forget to periodically change the diff lube... Per Eaton the units will operate smoother with age.
Cool video,well done sir, I woulda killed for a tru trac in my 85 c10 when I was 18 lol, I did so many burnouts with it that the centre pin in the diff wore over half way through causing the spiders to lock up, which in turn made its own position, lasted a few years like that, good memories
Worn out shocks can make the issue your having worse but it's cause is the reaction force of the engine torque on the solid rear axle. clutch type LSD's are a downgrade.
Nice. I've been working on my 81 Camaro for the last 15 years. I had installed a Detroit trutrack 14 years ago. I never drove the car yet. Don't know how it feels or reacts. Can't wait for my Z28, 511hp, to be done next summer!..... Unless covid, sorry gov-did gets me first.... 😔
The problem you described when going up on a hill on a right hand turn, I get that on my pickup too. You didn't make it clear, but that sounds like axle wrap / wheel hop, (and I bet its even worse in the rain). It can be fixed with traction bars or a link kit. Is your rear suspension just the factory leaf springs?
Any limited slip has to slip ro some extent before transferring power. If you want it locked, you have to lock it. .. and that makes for a terrible daily driver. The tru-trac is actually a very good option. Gm 14 bolt with the "paws" that throw out and grab are excellent. They lock solid. But you still feel the slip first. That's just how they all work.
Clutch type is worse. I've been stuck with one wheel in mud with those, and not with the truetrac in the same situation. I have one of these in my pickup. It'll squeal one wheel on either side when making tight turns or u turns. Its ALWAYS the wheel on the inside of the turn. I don't think it's due to the diff slipping. I think its transferring power from the outside wheel to the inside wheel because the outside wheel is spinning faster as you go around the corner. And like you said you gotta get on it a bit to make it do it.
Thanks for the video. Good to hear and see from someone that actually owns one and drives with one! Question, say you are really tipping it in to a corner, and you punch it while carrying some speed. Does it start to spin the inside tyre, then snap out aggressively and it's hard to catch and control? Or is it smooth and progressive and very controllable?
Hey Man, you do a great job and we appreciate it. Make a video at your leisure. We understand making a video, editing and preparing it on TH-cam is not a twenty minute thing. I watch my notifications and watch then. To you and your family, stay safe as well everything will work out for the good.
If you are going to swap out that diff, go with a spool type. But don’t go to a clutch pack type, that would be a downgrade. What you have now is probably the best one out there today.
I've had ford trac lock ( clutch based) and true tracks I'm my vehicles, when it really comes down to something serious like you pull off the road and 1 tire is deep in mud or something like that the clutch will fail you since it can't grip hard enough especially to get a heavy truck moving.
Eaton told me while the clutch type is rebuildable and the true trac is not, the clutch type is good for 600 hp while the true trac is worth 800 to 850hp.
I think you're misinterpreting the inside wheel slip when making a sharp right turn up the steep hill. This is the inside wheel slipping forward (pushing) under heavy power input (throttle) as the truetrac attempts to send torque to both wheels because each has significant traction. The difference in the wheel speed between the outside and the inside wheels is causing (as designed) binding in the helical gears/guide channels which is creating torque transfer or partial lock-up between the wheels. Under this condition, the inside tire is going to try to outrun the outside tires (as it tries to go the same speed). This manifests as the jerky slip-grip-slip-grip on the inside wheel as your suspension is pulled and flexed at all its joints. You could improve this with monotube shocks, poly bushings, solid metal ball joints, chassis stiffening, etc. A clutched limited slip (posi) with a high degree of pre-load or performance clutch pack will make this condition WORSE, not better. The more power you put to the clutched LSD, the more it will try to lock and the more the inside wheel will "push" forward. The truetrac allows you to avoid this condition under light power around those turns/hills. An actual detroit locker will also make this condition worse. Just because you paid less for the truetrac, doesn't make it a less-than-ideal choice! There are fancier carriers you can look at, but they are 2-3x the cost for marginally better performance.
Thank you for making this video. how long has it been in your? Cuz I am just now putting one in mind and I wanted to see how it should handle after break in time and all that.
I've had mine about a year. I live in the mountains with rough, often one lane roads where I gotta pull into dirt, gravel, and mud with one side of my pickup to let on coming traffic pass. This diff never fails me. Walks right back onto the road without even a slight spin, even up hill. The performance seems to be just as good as when I first got it. It does have its limitations, just dont expect to be rock crawling with a wheel in the air or something. I don't regret putting this diff in 1 bit. Worth every penny.
Agree w others, clutch posi wont take power to the wheels of a heavy vehicle. Don’t go w a 12 bolt. If you want to strengthen your 10 bolt, upgrade ypur axles, put in a cast diff cover from LPW w mains support studs. I also went w dutchman bolt in axles and Ford Torino style axle flanges in my 83 GMC.
Are you kidding me? This dude can probably find a drop in 12 bolt or 14 bolt correct width that is gonna beat the pants off any "beefed up" 7.5" 10 bolt. Your 83 GMC must not make much power, or get driven, if you think that a 10 bolt is a good investment for anyone. This is terrible advice.
@@chriswithrow3107 I disagree, I beat the snot out of it before it was worked. Of course, that was w skinny tires. Now its a 8.5/8.6 (not 7.5) 31 spline bolt in Dutchman axles, LPW cast cover w mains studs, welded tubes. Should survive behind my .600” cammed 406 thru AFR 220s. How much pwr is this mill making that he needs all that rear? Just a street truck right? Slicks? Big tire? No? 8.5 will be enough
@@chriswithrow3107 These trucks came with 8.5 thru, I dunno, 97? Then they switched to 8.6. Turbo Buick? Sounds fun. Tell me about it. I’m planning to do Dragweek when mine’s done (this spring, mechanically) Buddy’s building a 6sec Camaro & we’re hittin the road.
@@toddlentz5408 '82 blow through 3.8, (very slow) my first "real" car when I was 18 or 19, towed it home from Wisconsin, needed brakes fixed throughout, never actually got it on the road, even though it ran great. Finally got it indoors 2 weeks ago for the first time since I bought it in '07? Excited to fire it up again this winter or spring.
Nice video buddy , I miss you its been a while . Can't wait till i drive my IROC-ZL1 . Ill let you take him for a spin to make content for yourself . Hope you know how tok drive manual.
*You make a right turn and the wheel slips a little before it catches?* If you switch to clutch type differential this will be much worse. Helical style differentials (truetrac) are far more superior. Stay where your at bud.
I was thinking bout putting this diff n my 99 Sierra camed 4.8 n has built 4l65e with 26 2800 stall n am wandering if this is a good rear diff for burning tires n my absolute favorite catching second gear when 1 -2 shift💯❓❓
If you go to a clutch type it’s a downgrade keep the trutrac it’s what I run in all my trucks
Exactly. Clutches wear out in a short time, this wont do that.
Yep and clutch type will do the same thing and wear out the only true locker is a spool are weld the gears and like on ice in the rain
Trutrac is far superior to any clutch pack type diff.
Why
@@aidanrussell-smith4619 trutracs are basically maintenance free because there are no clutch discs that wear out. trutrac diffs have no wearable parts and only need fluid changed. overall it is a simpler design which makes it more durable. however, the limited slip clutch style is more "smooth" in its driver feel and operation. only downside is, it needs more maintenance because there are wearable parts. trurac is worry free. LSD w/clutch packs are smoother. both are good to go.
That smile before the burnouts is how I feel every time I start my truck! Thanks for the vid!
I've been running Eaton TrueTracs for so long, I've forgot how G80s act. That turning is actually skidding on which ever tire is in the inside of the turn. You can do it on flat pavement turning, with enough power and as long as you pour the power in and keep turning it will keep skidding the tire, as they are turning 50/50. No way I would EVER CONSIDER a G80 ever again. At the lightest notion the tires are not turning at the same speed, it equally splits the power. Definitely a hand full when it rains and you take off too hard. Be safe!
When you were turning sharp on the roundabout.. you would hage any other locker doing that. Keep the True Trac. It is absolutely perfect for your use! You'll really dislike having your tires wear like crazy and chirp and time you turn on pavement.
I got a 85 c10 with a 10 bolt 8.5 ring gear. I'm sticking newer 30 spline axles, ring gear, pinion and carrier for an 8.6 10 bolt rear end in my 8.5 ring gear setup. You can do this with the proper bearing kit. I've heard it's just as strong as a 12 bolt. I'm also going with Eaton truetrac.
I'm going with 4.11 and 28in tires with 700 R4 Transmission. So a pretty Torquey setup. At 45 miles an hour I should be running around 2600 RPM. Which is right around my stall. So when I hit the gas I'll get the speed and responsiveness that I want.
My rear tires are 325 50 R15. So I should hook up pretty well
Nice review, man! Glad to see you and the c10 back out again! I feel like the one thing your tire burning C10 really needs is a line lock - the true tire burning button!
I use the trutrac in my camaro. It launches straigher then with the stock posi. I cant even tell its installed. I like it.
What year camaro you have
Thank you for this video. I've always been a Locker dude and I still want one for my old Plymouth and I have been hearing good things about the Truetrac
YCT hope the TrueTrac is still treating you well... I do have to say it's my preference over the clutch style as it's maintenance free and should give you many years of trouble free service as long as you don't forget to periodically change the diff lube... Per Eaton the units will operate smoother with age.
Cool video,well done sir, I woulda killed for a tru trac in my 85 c10 when I was 18 lol, I did so many burnouts with it that the centre pin in the diff wore over half way through causing the spiders to lock up, which in turn made its own position, lasted a few years like that, good memories
Worn out shocks can make the issue your having worse but it's cause is the reaction force of the engine torque on the solid rear axle. clutch type LSD's are a downgrade.
Nice. I've been working on my 81 Camaro for the last 15 years. I had installed a Detroit trutrack 14 years ago. I never drove the car yet. Don't know how it feels or reacts. Can't wait for my Z28, 511hp, to be done next summer!..... Unless covid, sorry gov-did gets me first.... 😔
Thats a long time man. Thats part of the game tho. My trucks been sitting since spring of this year. Gonna get it back going in a few weeks.
Just glad to see you posting content again keep it up! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Glad 2 c u back fam..💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿💯
Sweet truck brother. I like that square body
The problem you described when going up on a hill on a right hand turn, I get that on my pickup too. You didn't make it clear, but that sounds like axle wrap / wheel hop, (and I bet its even worse in the rain). It can be fixed with traction bars or a link kit.
Is your rear suspension just the factory leaf springs?
Any limited slip has to slip ro some extent before transferring power. If you want it locked, you have to lock it. .. and that makes for a terrible daily driver. The tru-trac is actually a very good option. Gm 14 bolt with the "paws" that throw out and grab are excellent. They lock solid. But you still feel the slip first. That's just how they all work.
Perfect video. Putting one in my 9 inch. Basically answered every question I had about it 👌
Hmm, from what I hear the truetrac is an upgrade from the clutch type. I like not having to worry about the clutch plates also.
I enjoy these c10 videos more than any others, thanks brother
Nice to see you uploading, keep up the great work
Super impressed with you and your mechanical knowledge young man! Keep it up!
Clutch type is worse. I've been stuck with one wheel in mud with those, and not with the truetrac in the same situation. I have one of these in my pickup. It'll squeal one wheel on either side when making tight turns or u turns. Its ALWAYS the wheel on the inside of the turn. I don't think it's due to the diff slipping. I think its transferring power from the outside wheel to the inside wheel because the outside wheel is spinning faster as you go around the corner. And like you said you gotta get on it a bit to make it do it.
Thanks for the video.
Good to hear and see from someone that actually owns one and drives with one!
Question, say you are really tipping it in to a corner, and you punch it while carrying some speed.
Does it start to spin the inside tyre, then snap out aggressively and it's hard to catch and control?
Or is it smooth and progressive and very controllable?
the trutrac is safer than a posi and better. Mine took 500 miles before it started to feel correct.
Nice video! Very well spoken and great explanations. Been thinking about one of these diffs for my Mopar project.
I've never heard of issues with clutch type although going in a circle with WOT with all the weight on the outside wheel will probably overheat them.
True-Track has a higher biase than a posi. clutch style can't hold what this can, go to a Detroit locker that's your next step up .
You got the best money can buy, I rebuild the clutch types and they suck!
Hey Man, you do a great job and we appreciate it. Make a video at your leisure. We understand making a video, editing and preparing it on TH-cam is not a twenty minute thing. I watch my notifications and watch then. To you and your family, stay safe as well everything will work out for the good.
If you are going to swap out that diff, go with a spool type. But don’t go to a clutch pack type, that would be a downgrade. What you have now is probably the best one out there today.
awesome, I just sourced an OEM version from a Nissan Sentra to put in my Maxima.
Wow it sounds great! What cam? Lift and duration?
I've had ford trac lock ( clutch based) and true tracks I'm my vehicles, when it really comes down to something serious like you pull off the road and 1 tire is deep in mud or something like that the clutch will fail you since it can't grip hard enough especially to get a heavy truck moving.
Eaton told me while the clutch type is rebuildable and the true trac is not, the clutch type is good for 600 hp while the true trac is worth 800 to 850hp.
I put an Auburn limited-slip in mine back in the day ain't nothing wrong with a truetrac stay up my peoples
Are you sure it's "one wheel peeling" and not spring wrap? Traction bars might help.
Great vid, thanks for posting, nice truck btw.
I think you're misinterpreting the inside wheel slip when making a sharp right turn up the steep hill. This is the inside wheel slipping forward (pushing) under heavy power input (throttle) as the truetrac attempts to send torque to both wheels because each has significant traction. The difference in the wheel speed between the outside and the inside wheels is causing (as designed) binding in the helical gears/guide channels which is creating torque transfer or partial lock-up between the wheels. Under this condition, the inside tire is going to try to outrun the outside tires (as it tries to go the same speed). This manifests as the jerky slip-grip-slip-grip on the inside wheel as your suspension is pulled and flexed at all its joints. You could improve this with monotube shocks, poly bushings, solid metal ball joints, chassis stiffening, etc. A clutched limited slip (posi) with a high degree of pre-load or performance clutch pack will make this condition WORSE, not better. The more power you put to the clutched LSD, the more it will try to lock and the more the inside wheel will "push" forward. The truetrac allows you to avoid this condition under light power around those turns/hills. An actual detroit locker will also make this condition worse. Just because you paid less for the truetrac, doesn't make it a less-than-ideal choice! There are fancier carriers you can look at, but they are 2-3x the cost for marginally better performance.
Seems to be working great for ya...
What fluid are you running? It makes a difference.
How does it handle turns and backroads? No wear and tear?
Much love from Lancaster TX bro 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
I definitely do appreciate the video cause I’m 17 now but I bought my truck when I was 16 and the video are scare for anything involving c10:/
What do you mean? There are millions of c10 vids
Appreciate your input on the true trac. Good info
Thank you for making this video. how long has it been in your? Cuz I am just now putting one in mind and I wanted to see how it should handle after break in time and all that.
I've had mine about a year. I live in the mountains with rough, often one lane roads where I gotta pull into dirt, gravel, and mud with one side of my pickup to let on coming traffic pass. This diff never fails me. Walks right back onto the road without even a slight spin, even up hill. The performance seems to be just as good as when I first got it. It does have its limitations, just dont expect to be rock crawling with a wheel in the air or something. I don't regret putting this diff in 1 bit. Worth every penny.
Agree w others, clutch posi wont take power to the wheels of a heavy vehicle. Don’t go w a 12 bolt. If you want to strengthen your 10 bolt, upgrade ypur axles, put in a cast diff cover from LPW w mains support studs. I also went w dutchman bolt in axles and Ford Torino style axle flanges in my 83 GMC.
Are you kidding me? This dude can probably find a drop in 12 bolt or 14 bolt correct width that is gonna beat the pants off any "beefed up" 7.5" 10 bolt. Your 83 GMC must not make much power, or get driven, if you think that a 10 bolt is a good investment for anyone. This is terrible advice.
@@chriswithrow3107 I disagree, I beat the snot out of it before it was worked. Of course, that was w skinny tires. Now its a 8.5/8.6 (not 7.5) 31 spline bolt in Dutchman axles, LPW cast cover w mains studs, welded tubes. Should survive behind my .600” cammed 406 thru AFR 220s. How much pwr is this mill making that he needs all that rear? Just a street truck right? Slicks? Big tire? No? 8.5 will be enough
@@toddlentz5408 ok an 8.5" is a whole different story. That's what's in my turbo Buick.
@@chriswithrow3107 These trucks came with 8.5 thru, I dunno, 97? Then they switched to 8.6.
Turbo Buick? Sounds fun. Tell me about it.
I’m planning to do Dragweek when mine’s done (this spring, mechanically) Buddy’s building a 6sec Camaro & we’re hittin the road.
@@toddlentz5408 '82 blow through 3.8, (very slow) my first "real" car when I was 18 or 19, towed it home from Wisconsin, needed brakes fixed throughout, never actually got it on the road, even though it ran great. Finally got it indoors 2 weeks ago for the first time since I bought it in '07? Excited to fire it up again this winter or spring.
sweet truck mate
The hopping tire effect AKA the Steve McQueen burn out on the movie “Bullitt” check that out👊💪👍
Love the truck and I enjoy the video
Nice video buddy , I miss you its been a while . Can't wait till i drive my IROC-ZL1 . Ill let you take him for a spin to make content for yourself . Hope you know how tok drive manual.
♥Young Chevy Truck
*You make a right turn and the wheel slips a little before it catches?* If you switch to clutch type differential this will be much worse. Helical style differentials (truetrac) are far more superior. Stay where your at bud.
I was thinking bout putting this diff n my 99 Sierra camed 4.8 n has built 4l65e with 26 2800 stall n am wandering if this is a good rear diff for burning tires n my absolute favorite catching second gear when 1 -2 shift💯❓❓
1:15 are u missing a lug?
Nah it is there. But the lugnut is missing
How’s it feel on ice?
Larry
Why the trutrac instead of detroit locker
How much ho do you think it’ll hold??
A 10 bolt is good for at least 700 HP. It's that torque that breaks shit ask a diesel guy.
Get it in a parking lot and slide it around and get use to.
And I like you brothers shirt
There’sany noise when the gears inside move . When you going in nutral ?
Not sure what you are asking exactly but I never hear my truetrac. I have a manual trans too so I often coast. No noise.
Need to clamp off the rear brakes lol 😂
I appreciate it my friend
Cheapest Truetrac I can find for my Corporate 14 bolt is $775.38
That cam tho 😍
You wont a upgrade you to go to a spool .clucth type lsd dont hold a candle to true track
i liked you video.....
That thing needs an LS swap though 😈
Is he drivning in a normal working class neighbourhood?. Houses looks expensive, or maybe people are in serious debt with sky-high mortgages..
Lol you must of bought 300 likes or made 300 accounts