This is a cool device, I think it'll come in handy for two-part positioning in awkward positions on communication towers. I could've used this today, so I'll be getting one soon. Don't worry, this isn't being used for fall-pro, just for getting into tight spots or closer to things when the Grillion isn't quite cutting it.
even though it is mady from dynamic rop at that lentth there i almost no stretch. It is a real falacy. the stretch facto for a rope is determined by a 2 facter fall .
I agree that the ‘dynamic’ nature of any lanyard is not a huge benefit simply because we shouldn’t be messing around above an anchor without being well aware of the risk of shock loading onto the anchor. On that note, if your lanyard has some dynamic properties it will greatly reduce the load on the anchor. Example: if you take a factor 1 onto an anchor with your lanyard ( assume you are messing around above your anchor trying to get a higher piece to add to the existing anchor or pre-place the first piece for the next lead) the difference between 1cm of stretch and 2cm of stretch is equal to 1/2 the force on the anchor. Moving on, I do find it nicer on my back to have a little stretch compared to dyneema but more importantly I appreciate the micro adjust of this lanyard so that is am not bouncing around but exactly where I want to be. Regardless, I still almost always climb without any lanyard on the way up and use dyneema slings on the way down. I did do a route yesterday as a party of three and put this lanyard on to help keep things clean at the anchors with untying and re-tying in to reconfigure the ropes ( we led in blocks). I kinda liked it and think it was a good move in spite of having a ton of gear on my harness, including 2 full sets of cams, 15 runner, full set of pins/ peckers and a hammer. Rob O.
Hi there, You know, it is on the bulky end and not for everyone or application. I (Rob) know some folks that always like to have it for both sport climbing and multipitch. Personally I use it a few unique cases, such as: - Sport multipitch where I don't have a lot of gear hanging off me and am going to rappel straight back down. - When climbing in parties of three (or when guiding more than one client on a steep route) to keep thngs easy and clean at the anchor...as opposed to a bunch of clove hitches etc. - When climbing as a part yo of three and swapping leads...meaning tying in and out of ropes to reconfigure. - There are times where I don;t want the bulk on my harness but know there will be a bunch of rappels and I will carry it in my pack on the way up. So, in short, everyone has a different approach to "tethers". I usually only use one on the way down. What I do like about this is how secure it feels and how smooth it adjusts.
Would 2 of these be good for a high scramble where there is bolts and rungs just for slip protection . I’m looking to climb Gran Paradiso solo so I’m looking for some slip protection instead of just winging it
Hi Daryl, The Connect Adjust is meant only for stationary connection to an anchor, not for dynamic movement. A slip or fall onto an anchor would result in a static load to the system and would put high forces on the anchors, carabiners and the body of the climber. For protection in a Via Ferrata environment please see: www.petzl.com/CA/en/Sport/Via-Ferrata
Good question, a common one. While there are differing opinions about the best method to attach a lanyard to a harness, most experts (IE: IFMGA Mountain Guides) and the manufacturer feel that the belay loop is preferred. This is for a few reasons including that it is easier to identify and doesn't crowd the front of the harness and it doesn't constrict the tie in points (IE: reduce the rise). The main thing with the belay loop is that it should be allowed to rotate so that it wears out somewhat evenly. Having a fixed lanyard on your harnesses belay loop will restrict the rotation and, over many days of climbing, wear the belay loop out faster than if it did rotate. The take away is that having a fixed lanyard, that is never removed from the harness, is the main concern. Most manufactures, including Petzl, recommend removing a lanyard after every day to allow for this. With all this said regular inspection is critical. I've personally never had a belay loop come close to wearing out before the tie in points, that see abuse and friction from the rope consistently throughout every day.
Using the rope and a clove hitch is the most common way to secure yourself at an anchor for sure. Some folks prefer to have a personal lanyard and this is where the Connect Adjust would come in. Personally, I use the clove hitch and rope method most of the time on the way up a climb and then use a 120cm sling girth hitched through my belay loop on the way down/rappelling as a lanyard. I use the connect adjust most commonly when climbing as a party of three, to keep things cleaner at the anchor and for reconfiguring leads with less messing around. I will also take it sometimes for routes where I know I am rappelling right back down. It is nice to have something that is so micro adjustable at times...
This is a cool device, I think it'll come in handy for two-part positioning in awkward positions on communication towers. I could've used this today, so I'll be getting one soon. Don't worry, this isn't being used for fall-pro, just for getting into tight spots or closer to things when the Grillion isn't quite cutting it.
even though it is mady from dynamic rop at that lentth there i almost no stretch. It is a real falacy. the stretch facto for a rope is determined by a 2 facter fall .
I agree that the ‘dynamic’ nature of any lanyard is not a huge benefit simply because we shouldn’t be messing around above an anchor without being well aware of the risk of shock loading onto the anchor. On that note, if your lanyard has some dynamic properties it will greatly reduce the load on the anchor. Example: if you take a factor 1 onto an anchor with your lanyard ( assume you are messing around above your anchor trying to get a higher piece to add to the existing anchor or pre-place the first piece for the next lead) the difference between 1cm of stretch and 2cm of stretch is equal to 1/2 the force on the anchor.
Moving on, I do find it nicer on my back to have a little stretch compared to dyneema but more importantly I appreciate the micro adjust of this lanyard so that is am not bouncing around but exactly where I want to be.
Regardless, I still almost always climb without any lanyard on the way up and use dyneema slings on the way down.
I did do a route yesterday as a party of three and put this lanyard on to help keep things clean at the anchors with untying and re-tying in to reconfigure the ropes ( we led in blocks). I kinda liked it and think it was a good move in spite of having a ton of gear on my harness, including 2 full sets of cams, 15 runner, full set of pins/ peckers and a hammer.
Rob O.
It seems like a bulkier and heavier alternative to a simple sling. On an already heavy trad rack, so people find the trade off worth it?
Hi there, You know, it is on the bulky end and not for everyone or application. I (Rob) know some folks that always like to have it for both sport climbing and multipitch. Personally I use it a few unique cases, such as:
- Sport multipitch where I don't have a lot of gear hanging off me and am going to rappel straight back down.
- When climbing in parties of three (or when guiding more than one client on a steep route) to keep thngs easy and clean at the anchor...as opposed to a bunch of clove hitches etc.
- When climbing as a part yo of three and swapping leads...meaning tying in and out of ropes to reconfigure.
- There are times where I don;t want the bulk on my harness but know there will be a bunch of rappels and I will carry it in my pack on the way up.
So, in short, everyone has a different approach to "tethers". I usually only use one on the way down. What I do like about this is how secure it feels and how smooth it adjusts.
@@OnwardUPCampus thanks for the detailed reply!
Would 2 of these be good for a high scramble where there is bolts and rungs just for slip protection . I’m looking to climb Gran Paradiso solo so I’m looking for some slip protection instead of just winging it
Hi Daryl, The Connect Adjust is meant only for stationary connection to an anchor, not for dynamic movement. A slip or fall onto an anchor would result in a static load to the system and would put high forces on the anchors, carabiners and the body of the climber. For protection in a Via Ferrata environment please see: www.petzl.com/CA/en/Sport/Via-Ferrata
What belt are you wearing in the video?
Idk about connecting it to your belay loop, you'll wear it out prematurely
Good question, a common one.
While there are differing opinions about the best method to attach a lanyard to a harness, most experts (IE: IFMGA Mountain Guides) and the manufacturer feel that the belay loop is preferred. This is for a few reasons including that it is easier to identify and doesn't crowd the front of the harness and it doesn't constrict the tie in points (IE: reduce the rise).
The main thing with the belay loop is that it should be allowed to rotate so that it wears out somewhat evenly. Having a fixed lanyard on your harnesses belay loop will restrict the rotation and, over many days of climbing, wear the belay loop out faster than if it did rotate. The take away is that having a fixed lanyard, that is never removed from the harness, is the main concern. Most manufactures, including Petzl, recommend removing a lanyard after every day to allow for this.
With all this said regular inspection is critical. I've personally never had a belay loop come close to wearing out before the tie in points, that see abuse and friction from the rope consistently throughout every day.
Can I use this to anchor myself while cleaning the top of the route?
Hi Patricia, yes that is the most popular use.
wouldnt clove hitching a piece of pro or a draw on the anchor achieve the same thing?
Using the rope and a clove hitch is the most common way to secure yourself at an anchor for sure. Some folks prefer to have a personal lanyard and this is where the Connect Adjust would come in.
Personally, I use the clove hitch and rope method most of the time on the way up a climb and then use a 120cm sling girth hitched through my belay loop on the way down/rappelling as a lanyard. I use the connect adjust most commonly when climbing as a party of three, to keep things cleaner at the anchor and for reconfiguring leads with less messing around. I will also take it sometimes for routes where I know I am rappelling right back down. It is nice to have something that is so micro adjustable at times...