Make quality OIL PAINTING panels for cheap!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ค. 2017
- I've never liked spending money for sub-par products...I'm not afraid to spend a lot for a great product (like good brushes), but when a cheaper product will work as good or BETTER than the so-called professional stuff, then I'm all for putting in a little bit of effort to save a LOT of money.
Visit my art website at: www.trentgudmundsen.com - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
This was amazingly helpful!! Especially as a single lady who lives alone, the workers at the hardware store get extremely annoyed when I ask them to cut panels for me!
This guy is sooooo real. He makes you feel right at home.
Trent- Would you please do a video on framing your paintings? How to artists frame their work so beautifully yet in a cost effective way?
I love your laid-back approach to providing valuable information. Oh, yes, I also love your paintings.
Preparation makes a LOT of difference!! I agree with your practices! Cool use of old-fashioned marble dust! KILZ2 is a great primer for all paints, especially porous surfaces, in case anyone wants a water-based primer.
Dear Trent, I absolutely love this info delivered with your Real-ness !! Thank you for sharing....
Agreed. It's inspiring.
Always get your primer shaken at the store, also don't prime in direct sun. i use this stuff a lot as a house painter
I made these recently (carefully following your instructions!) I really love the smoothness of the surface~ my brush just flows across. Also, I have noticed that the paint doesn't "sink in" like it does on cotton canvas. Also, I don't worry nearly so much about paintings being damaged during shipping. That has always been a concern for me when shipping stretched canvas. Thank you very much!
Loved the Satie.... You sure are a laid back dude..and thank you so much for you great generosity,in showing us ways of cutting costs! Saying hi from Ontario,Canada🇨🇦
😁 you’re very welcome! (Satie is one of my favorite composers ❤️)
Thank you for the information. Canvases and panels are getting expensive and anything we can do to save money, but still have a good support for painting on is great.
Big thumbs up.
You are very interesting. I sense that you are a good father. We need more people like you in this crazy world. I am the guy that does the mini paintings. I find it hard to find things to paint. I have Parkinson's and it is very hard for me to get out. Thanks for the videos. F. Caviani
I wanna say you only : YOU ARE GREAT !!! Thanks a lot !!!
Man, you do suffer for your art. Thx for sharing your technique.
This is the most useful description I have ever seen. Thanks for the education.
I’m so glad it’s been helpful! 😁
Oh wow thank you so much for this , I LEARNED EVERYTHING from you tube , I am a self thought artist.
Also loved the Eric Satie at the end. 🎼✌️👌👏👏👏👏👏👩🎨😎
Painting on a smooth panel is so much nicer than painting on canvas.
Thanks for all the tips. Keep them coming. Is that board different than what they call luan board. I'm glad for any ideas on saving money in art. Can't wait for your painting video.
Tried this and i love it Trent! Also tried it on gesso primed canvas and linen! Works awesome, the unprimed stuff i use an acrylic matte medium to seal it first, then the oil primer or lead ground here soon(ordering the rublev lead ground, just to see how good, n how much I like it) anyway, figured I'd follow up n let u know it worked awesome for me, did a portrait of my 5yr old son to kick it off and it turned out my favorite surface texture to date. Thanks again!
That’s awesome! Thanks for letting me know. I bought some lead white with every intention of using it the same way as you described, but I haven’t done it yet. I need to.
This is so helpful! Thanks for sharing it.😊
Thank you, please update us on the latest primer you are using. Bought the zissner and am waiting to use. Before that I did the gesso, and finally got it on enough and sanded, then I added the Williamsburg ground lead, and that looks real good on top. (All are hardboards). Thanks so much again!
Thanks for this! I've been buying panels and canvas, but I've been thinking about making my own to save money and not have to go to the store so often. Thanks for the tips!
Thank you for helping us staving artists save a little moolha! You remind me of the Amish!!
Haha! Yeah, I like a simple life (I suppose it does look pretty Amish!). But anyway, you're very welcome. I use a lot of different gessoes and grounds, so I encourage you to find what works for you. Take care! -Trent
WOW, cool idea with the marble dust.
I have used these primer sealers for years. I don't paint panels with a brush but use a spray gun. Much more even coating, faster and results far superior . I also spray the backs of my panels to prevent warping of the hardboard or plywood when the humidity changes. Learned this from my cabinet business. Guess when this was produced paint was far cheaper. That primer in this video is now near 60 bucks at HD. 20 bucks would be great but will never see that again.. Shellac based is 74 bucks a gallon last I checked. Oil a bit cheaper. Ah, longing for the good old days...
Thanks for sharing this information!
I've been painting with acrylics straight onto unprimed hardboard for years its really nice to paint on and the pictures last forever lol still use canvas for oils though
THANKS for the information. I will be using it soon. I really don't like canvas panels because they warp. Your technique will work better for sure.
Maybe it is just me, but you just made me crazy watching this! I've been painting for 45 years and like you I am all for saving money when it does not lower the quality. I also use mdf panels and prep them myself. I cut them to size first, this way I can cover the edges with primer. I also paint the back side first to eliminate warping. Now here is where I went nuts. Painting panels in the dirt and rocks and tossing them around as you did! WOW. Doesn't chunks of dirt get on the wet primer? I'm to old to kneel as you do, so I work on a table in my shop with plenty of ventilation. I also cut the panels with a table saw. It gives great clean cuts and is very much faster and more accurate than a saber saw. I can turn a 4'x8' sheet of mdf into sized panels in about 30 minutes and primed both sides in another hour and a half with no dirt chunks. :-D I love your paintings and your videos, I hope you take this only as my way of doing this job of making archival panels for oil painting and not a criticism, though in a way I guess it is. Hopefully constructive criticism.Keep up the great work.
It may be a criticism, but it's not offensive. :) I'll address all of the points you brought up.
I like that you paint all around the panels...yes, that would help with warping. I haven't had many problems with that (one variety of hardboard I was using was more prone to warping, but I stopped using that after just a couple paintings), but every bit helps, right? If I had a good table saw set up I might use it more often, but I've gotten really fast and accurate with a jigsaw, so it actually is faster (for me) to do it this way than to try and set up the cuts on the table saw. To each his own method. Regarding the dirt and whatever in the priming, sometimes I actually put sand in on purpose. The random texture I put in my brushstrokes is sometimes enhanced by other random textures...I know it's not for everyone, but I just like it.
Trent, first I am so glad you did not take offense as it was never meant that way. I'm 75 years old so the easier physically for me has become important. I even try and coerce my son in cutting panels for me. LOL I do have a table saw and set the fence at a measurement, say 12inches, for example. I will cut all 12in panels before changing the size to say, 16 inches and cut the panels to 12x16. Once all sizes of panels are cut, I begin coating the panels on the back and sides. The face that I will paint on is painted last and usually two coats does it. I use the Zinser also. Some panels I will let dry a week and then sand them with an electric sander. These are usually for figurative or florals. My landscapes are done on a random pattern like you described. I do all the priming in the shop, nit in the dirt and rocks. If I did it like you do, I would never be able to stand up again. On the last point I totally agree with you that we must do our work the way we like it. Not how others might say we should. Keep on painting you very fine pieces, I truly enjoy seeing your work.
John Cox and everybody else. 1 Dont use MDF. Its full of things in it that u dont want in a panel. Its better with masonite but be beware. There is two different masonite boards. Get the one without the oil. 2 Acrylic gesso thats used is not proved to be archivable. Its only been used in 40 years. 3 Only use alkyd on board and not canavas. It gets hard and are not as flexible as acrylic.
I'm into using plywood at the moment - 6mm, 10mm, 12mm. I've tried PVA glue as a sealer with gesso on top but have considered the Zinsser. I will give it a look on my next iteration with plywood boards or MDF whose surface I prefer painting on. I'm not 100% sure about MDF yet but it does seem to stay warp free so I might try it and it's cheap and easy to get. I use a jigsaw too but I often set up a clamped jig to get a straight line. I also set up a notched post to stick my boards into while drying. I can fit 20 or so vertically.
Awesomely helpful video! Thankyou! :)
I used that primer and added acrylic ultramarine blue and it made for a beautiful blue color
I use golden acrylic gesso, do 4,5 coats then sand then down with 400 grit paper, so you sand yours ever? (I love a smooth surface)
I don't know if you realise that, with that hat and your beard ...you remind me of ..Vincent van Goth ..🌻...
maybe if he wore only black and lots of dark eye makeup
Vincent van Gogh....
Man I hope people understand how awesome this video is cause the surface you paint on REALLY does make a diff.........thanks for sharing your amazing knowledge
Snapper Lee You watch Andrew Tishler and now you say this. Masonite is the worse shit you can use to do a painting on.
Sebastien Lajoie yes I do and I paint on many diff surfaces and I have had NO proba painting on Masonite.......and neither does Michael james smith who paints on mdf and Masonite nor does a Tom Hughs who is also on TH-cam and most of the artist I know so I really have no clue what your talking about.....maybe you can explain your point of view
Snapper Lee I would also like to know what he is talking about...🤔
Karen Spooner lol yeah ummm I'm with you........really lost on this one
Thank you very much Trent :)
Hi! Your work is beautiful... can you use a simular method as a base for acrylics and waterolor?? Thanks!
Thanks so much for this great info
Thanks. This was great.
Thanks for an excellent video! BTW you must have super sturdy knees to be kneeling on that rocky driveway!
haha! Perhaps I'm paying the price for it now 3 years later...now I have a table saw and radial arm saw that make things easier. ;)
Terrific and informative video. I wonder if it would be easier and quicker to use the spray paint version of the Zinger oil primer.
Great idea!
Dry low 90's. Yea, no need to use the quick dry stuff. Idaho. Sounds so nice. I'm in upstate NY. It's mighty cold this time of year. It was 9 below zero a couple weeks ago. LOL Brrrrrrrrr.
Hi!! I really enjoy your videos! Do you add marble dust to gesso when you use it?
Trent, I enjoy your channels SO much. Im addicted to Banjo
Your painting really reminds me of Carl Larsson's home life centered paintings.
Very informative! Really enjoyed it. Question, did you have a variety of thicknesses of hardboards? If so, what thickness do you prefer to work on? What's your go-to for most sizes? Also, where do you purchase yours? Online or at a local lumber supplier?
Yea, I use Zinsser water based primer. It's easier to work with ,because it dries a lot faster. ,but you got to let it cure overnight for oil paintings. I always lightly sand before painting. Great stuff anyway oil or water based.
How about for acrylic? Would the Zinsser water based work for acrylic?
Thanks for the wonderful tutorial! I've been reading that one should prime all sides of a panel before painting on it? What do you think of that matter? Or do you think the side you are painting on is sufficient?
Priming both sides keeps a panel from allowing moisture into the unprimed side which is a sure fire way for a panel to warp.
Marble dust could be a very good medium for acrylic. You have inspired me to experiment ! Thank you
Marble dust is a pigment if anything, mediums are there for suspensions of pigment, such as linseed oil, or Liquin.
What’s the smaller board on top with the texture, I paint with pastels and the pastel will really grab that nicely, it’s the narrow board on top?
Sore knees.crude approach ? set up some tressels and paint the full sheet with a roller
Everyone does it their own way. Obviously, mine works just as well as any other (you think I haven't tried with a roller?)
Thanks for sharing . Do you also make your own frames?
Thanx🌹
this brand also makes a clear acrylic wall size that can be used as acylic medium
Great tips and so so helpful!!!!!!!!! BIG THANKS!!!!!!
I do a somewhat similar process in that I make my own panels out of 1/8 birch plywood for 9 x 12 plein air work. However, I seal both sides with Zinser water based sealer and all four edges as it stops the panel from warping over time. I also then glue (with acrylic gel) linen bought from JoAnne's Fabrics on to each panel. Then I gesso or oil prime the linen. It's cheap and quick.
Good process. I like that. I've done similar things with fabrics (linen and cotton), gluing pre-primed canvas to boards...stretched, etc.. Anyway, thank you for sharing your process! :)
Is acrylic gel same as acrylic gel medium?
I've been painting on Ampersand gesso board. Have used both the cheapo line and the artist line, very big difference between two, but, very costly either way, especially for a newbie like moi. Will be experimenting with both of these ideas soon, as I have everything but the oil primer, cheap brushes and a jigsaw.
FYI: Tried cutting with a handheld circular saw and got ripped up edges, so will definitely try the jigsaw. Thank for the awesome,video and these alternative ideas, you guy rock!
Acrylic gel medium refers to the consistency of the gel, which is not a medium. Confusing I know, but gel typically comes in soft, medium and heavy. Mediums are for another range of uses for
mixing with acrylics to achieve certain desired results, like greater flow or leveling properties, or extending the working time of acrylics, etc. (of course, gels are frequently mixed with paint for altering the properties of paint as well). As far as cutting panels, If you don't have access to a wood shop or someone with a table saw, you can achieve a smooth cut with a circular saw if you buy a new blade. It must be carried tipped, and labeled for use in cutting plywood. This will be a finish blade, have lots of small teeth, and shouldn't set you back much at all. Also, always cut your plywood from the back side for a nicer edge on the side you want to feature in your artwork. It helps to clamp a straight edge to the plywood for a perfect straight cut. Set your blade depth to just a tad deeper than the thickness of the wood you are cutting.
That comment should read "It must be carbide tipped."
Barbara Snyder z
New subscriber! I'm not sure you should pay Everett??? :-) lol when you said you would pay him and that he was helping a lot in the next edited scenes he was lounging... So funny! Great info, thanks!
Haha! :)
Hi Trent, thanks for this awesome video. I have two questions for you. First one: Do you think appropriate to apply some sizing before the alkyd primer ( such as Rabbit skin glue for instance...)?. And second: I've heard that priming only one side of the panel can cause the panel to warp due to the drying of the primer. Do you think appropriate to prime also the back side, let's say one coat only, to avoid this or do you think it's not necessary? Thankssss.
Hi Victor, Thanks! I think it's not necessary to apply a sizing when the surface is wood. In fact, I believe that hardboard like this already has some oils in it, which doesn't seem to negatively affect the board itself (I've seen some pretty old paintings on hardboard that look like they're still very sound). I've never had a problem with warping (they're especially rigid once the paintings are framed), but I don't think it's a bad idea to prime the back side. I've honestly never done it, but again, probably not a bad idea.
Thanks Trent!
My Nana did her paintings on Masonite and they're still holding up after over 80 years! Do you use the smooth or the textured side?
Are they in the dry Texas or humid Florida?
do you paint it on the smooth side or the rough side? I see you put "marble dust" in the mixture, could one use Plaster of Paris?
well, it was interesting, I tried the mixture on Masonite and it "sucked up my paint like crazy" probably won't be using Plaster of Paris again.... glad it works for you
I wouldn't use a chock on base.not even a gypsum.
Im not sure if you would like it, but, using a "winnie-roller" is tons faster, and you can get different rollers, for smoother results. Also, clean up is a breeze, just get yourself a plastic container big enough to hold the roller, and dunk it in water with a little soap, close it and shake! I have been using commercial grade paints to prepare panels for over twenty years. I also would recommend that you make some kind of work table to do all of this on, I place a big sheet of cardboard out to catch drips, and it certainly is better on your back. To mix better, use a whisk. Think of it like pancake batter...
Zinsser ceiling is the one I mix into PVA primer... I get it five gallons at a time. For $100.00 I can prime for literally years. Since you are using alkyds, you can cut the mix using mineral spirits or thinner, it will flow a lot better and allow you to get extend the mix. Another tip: do get a winnie-roller, and just throw the roller into the gallon can when you are finished, no washing! Next time, just put it back on the roller frame and go again!
Awesome! Thank you, Chris! I definitely didn't do it the easiest way here. I especially like that you were able to fit the winnie-roller into the can! (I hate washing rollers).
Thank you for this explanation. Are those animals I can hear okay? If they’re not yours I would suggest a call to the SPCA for an inspection.
I have never primed that many boards without getting the paint all over me. How do you stay so clean?
Movie magic. haha. :) Just kidding....actually, I don't think I own any clothes that don't have some amount of paint on them.
I can't remember the reason, but my college painting professor said to use the untempered masonite, which is light/blonde, and not the dark masonite.
AnAbortiveRomance because it has chemicals that can leach
Trent - That primer looks like it covers great but, wonder if I could use it for my acrylic paints?
WoW, an OIL BASED PRIMER for acrylic paint??? You must be really experienced! Acrylic WILL NEVER WORK ON OIL!
At 9:18 in the video he says you can use this primer with acrylic paints.
Product information for Zinsser® Cover Stain® all-purpose oil-based stain-killing primer-sealer, at the Lowe's website does say "May be used under any oil-base or water-base topcoat"
It's a shellac base primer,good for painting kitchens , acrylic and oil paints work just fine
This particular one isn’t shellac-based, but that brand does also have one that’s shellac-based, which I’ve actually used and been very happy with. In fact, I’d say the shellac is preferable to the cover-stain (mostly just because of the terrible smell and long drying time of the cover-stain). One thing I noticed is that the shellac doesn’t seem like it’ll stick to the smooth surfaces very well at first (it can be easily scratched off), but after a few days it seems to be just as permanent as the cover-stain. Anyway, thanks for chiming in! 🙂
Thanks Trent for this video. I have some left over Zinsser from my home decorating but it says for interior and spot exterior. Would this do the same job?
Yeah, I think that would work just fine...another artist just revealed to me recently that he uses that same interior type, but first he adds some plaster of paris (mixed with water first)...as long as you keep mixing it every 10 minutes or so for the first hour, it shouldn't harden up. (I've only tried it once, and I haven't checked my can yet, but wow, I love the texture with the plaster in it!)
Thanks. Sounds very interesting.
Did you say acrylic paint could be used on these panels?
Hi Trent, You use a light violet colour which looks great, what brand of paint is it please? All the best for Christmas
The purple I use is called "dioxazine purple" (any brand works), but it's pretty dark actually. If you've seen a light violet, then it's probably one I've mixed myself.
How do you prevent those thin wood panels from bending, after painting? Thanks.
Hi. Sorry for the delayed reply. I find that they don’t bend much for me, but grasping both sides (or otherwise sealing them) will usually prevent warping.
I'm using MDF I was thinking of applying Gac 100 to prevent prevent SID then apply Zinsser oil based afterwards to prime it but I wonder if it is necessary. Do you still use Gac 100?
Honestly, I've tried so many different things, and I'm pretty happy with almost all of them. Currently in my studio are stacks and stacks of primed boards ready to go, and I don't even remember what's on each of them now. LOL! I say, if it works for you, then you've chosen wisely...keep experimenting! :)
If you put an X (with the paint) on the back it will help keep it from warping.
Good idea! I hadn’t thought of that but I can see how it would “strap” it in all directions. Lately I’ve been spraying shellac on the backs of them to waterproof them.
Thoughts on sealing with shellac before priming?
IDK. Might be good idea. Masonite is like a sponge around water and mold loves it once it gets wet. Worse than regular ply wood. I’ve used marine plywood in the past it have now been using canvas/linen mounted on aluminum panels. I use archival PVA for the glue. Saves a little money and still better than painting on stretched canvas because the paintings are easier to store and ship without worrying about puncturing. I usually paint my paintings before attaching to the support. Often, I don’t attach them to the support until they are sold.
Im gonna try this for sure. Hey, Trent! do potential buyers care what surface the painting is done on i mean is canvas more sought after than boards?
Hi. In my opinion, not very many buyers care what it's done on. I've seen some very expensive paintings done on much cheaper surfaces than mine...and I've sold paintings on linen for the same price as ones on panel. I've asked my galleries, and they all seem to agree...that it doesn't matter very much. Having said that, I think it's important to be honest with yourself, and paint on the best quality thing you can (whatever you decide is the best, until you find out something better). I used to paint exclusively on linen because I thought it was the best, and I've since decided that hardboard/masonite is at least as good, if not better. I really think that using the Zinnser oil priming is a good idea. (The acrylic stuff isn't as good, in my opinion, but some others really love it).
Thank you for that Trent,, God bless you and your family.
Vigen Akopyan museums are full of paintings on wood 😀
Is there no need to paint the back side of masonite? I found with birch 1/8 " ply it helped not to warp.
Sorry for my late reply, Brian. I assume you've just gone with what you think is best by now, but yes, painting the back is always good practice. I've actually never had a panel warp except for once when I literally left them outside in a rainstorm (luckily they hadn't been painted on yet...just primed). I like to use shellac these days because it dries SUPER fast and is supposed to be completely water resistant.
MAT Yağlı boya mı. Toz boya kattın. İsmi nedir? Boyayı yoğunlaştırmak için mi?
İnceltmeden sürdün. Zaten ince kıvamda
Wow thanks for this! Question: what is the thickness of your boards? Does it come in different thicknesses? How large can you go with this before it might warp? Would it work for 16 by 24??? or would I use a thicker board for that?
I use anywhere from 3/16" to 5/16" (I usually use the thinner stuff only up to about 12"x16")...I've painted up to 48"x60" on the 5/16" with no problem, but they usually need to be framed before the warping goes away; or one could glue a wooden "frame" on the back to stabilize it.
@@TrentGudmundsen THANK YOU for the reply!
What's the name of the outro song?
Can you paint trditional oil based primer over your primer for a second coat. I need to use up my oil based primer and i would love to eliminnate the sanding.
I was wondering about that too. I want to use some lead-white primer and thought about using it over the Kilz. Honestly, though, I think I'd be happier going over shellac or PVA primer. It's a bit of an experiment...for both of us.
Cevap için TEŞEKKÜR ederim😊
Thanks for the info :) Have you ever tried calcium carbonate in lieu of the marble dust? May be a cheaper alternative? Also, Harbor Freight (if one is close) sells 2" chip brushes by the box. Hope that helps some
I haven't tried it yet, but chalk would probably work fine...same chemical, essentially. Marble dust doesn't really cost much, though. Thanks for the tip on Harbor Freight brushes...I'll go get some! :)
I just found this video, thanks for sharing it! It's always great to have cost effective tips. Your artwork is beautiful.
A sealer like shellac or Golden GAC 100 isn't required before the cover stain?
I've used shellac before, but it's not required in this case...at all.
Good to know, thank you!
HGolden Street
Hi Trent. Have you tried the shellac based primer of the same brand?
Hi Stephen. Yes! I’ve been using the white shellac and it’s really nice. Dries super fast, and holds the paint well. I admit I now use it more than the cover-stain. (Although I also still rely a lot on simple acrylic gesso…depends mostly on how much time I have for things to dry).
That’s really interesting but this list has me kinda heaving:
Flammable liquid and vapour. May cause drowsiness or dizziness.
Danger
Contains 2-butanone oxime. May produce an allergic reaction.
Contains sensitizing substances. May produce an allergic reaction. Always read the label and product information before use.
Flammable liquid and vapour.
Harmful to aquatic life with long lasting effects.
May cause drowsiness or dizziness.
Repeated exposure may cause skin dryness or cracking
I’ll stick to Gesso. ✌🏻
Probably a good idea. Of course, a lot of oil painting materials have some variety of toxicity…but you’re right, this is a bad one. I only ever use it in summertime outdoors. I’ve found some better, safer options since making this video.
I can't handle fumes even outdoors. Is it okay to just use a good quality latex hourse paint that says paint and primer in one? Or should I use a good gesso and what is the difference if you know? thanks! I love all your vids!
Yes, I’d suggest just an acrylic gesso. I’ve also enjoyed painting on shellac (painted or sprayed directly into the wood); it smells a bit at first, but it’s all natural and it dries in just a few minutes.
@@TrentGudmundsen OKAY THANKS for reply! You are GREAT !!
That primer and Kilz are made to stick to anything under or over it. You can paint glass, and it will never peel.
Yeah, I love them for that reason!
is 3/16" masonite good enough? I've called around and can only find 3/16" and 1/8". I want somewhat larger panels to paint on and want to make sure they're thick enough and don't warp.
Hi Ron. Yes, I agree. The 1/4" thicker boards are better for 24"x36" and up (in my experience). I had to go to a specialty lumber yard (the kind that mostly sells to construction professionals). I paid around $30 each for the 1/4" a couple weeks ago. Also, I've heard that even the big box stores can special order the thicker stuff.
Ron Lichtle just cradle them
I'm wondering about a few things. I realize this is an old thread, but saw there was one comment from a week ago. I wonder about the alkyd turning yellow over time? I wonder if Trent was able to find anything out about that? I think I saw that he said in one of the replies that he was now using something different? Is that the reason? 2: I wonder how long the board and the primer will out-gas harmful VOCs? Would like to avoid that altogether. Anyway, I just did several of these as was demonstrated in the video. Definitely needed the outdoor ventilation!
Hi Lesley, I've re-posted this edited comment from the right account). Thanks again for your comments. Yes, the alkyd DOES turn yellow (I had previously said it doesn't, but that was a type-o). It doesn’t bleed into or show through the oil paint, luckily, but it’s something to be aware of. They’ve changed the formulation now, so I don’t prefer this method anymore. I instead paint onto just regular acrylic gesso, or lead white priming on top of PVA, or even just straight into shellac sometimes. All three methods work great, and I have a few experimental methods I also use occasionally. The off-gassing issue can be avoided with the lead priming, but of course it’s lead. Also, the acrylic (if it’s a high quality one) and the shellac are relatively fast at off gassing, and within 1-2 days it’s virtually nothing.
Thank you very much Trent. I’d like to try this but I’ve read somebody saying that using house paints for your oil painting is risky. Cracks you often find on your walls are evident for her argument. You can’t compare walls with, say, wooden boards, can you??? I’m a little confused.
noname3952 Hi. 🙂 This Zinsser stuff isn’t really house paint in that sense of the term...it’s more of a glue-like permanent primer than most gessoes. I feel like it’s a real innovative material, and in my opinion it’s perfectly suitable for use as an oil painting primer. But only use it on boards. (Of course, only do what you feel good about, but I’ve tried a lot of things and have no hesitations in recommending it...but to be fair, I don’t use it in rainy or snowy months because it’s impossible to use indoors due to the smell).
Liked and subscribed
Paint the entire board before you cut it up into pieces. Much quicker!!!!!
Hmmm, never tried that before. haha. :) I'm kidding, obviously. Yes, but I had these already cut up...tough to put them back together first. ;)
I would still paint the cut edges afterward. You're sure to have a few chips or scratches from cutting after priming.
That's what I do.
ok, I bought everything you suggested except for the "marble dust". I made a real mess. My Primer left ridges on the board. So now I have this huge stack of Masonite Boards, what to do with them. Then I had a bright idea. I have a pad of Canvas sheets, so I glued them onto the board, should work just fine. All not a loss. I really enjoyed your video, just didn't work for this gal. Any pointers you might have would be nice.
Hmmm, sorry it didn't work out. Maybe try a softer brush? Not sure unless I saw it...anyway, I'm glad you were able to salvage them.
Have you set up a site to purchase prints? I am all for the little bit of effort to save a lot of money.
Are you sure that stuff is archival ?
What kind of primer it was wall primer wood primer or metal primer
That can of primer says it's for anything...wood, metal, paper, concrete...but I know for sure that it works on wood, which is what I'm painting on. :)
Hi,can i just put 2 layers of Zinsser but no marble dust?will it work?thanks
Hi Anita. Yes, you can use just the Zinsser with no marble dust, but if you want an alternative to the marble dust you can just use a little bit of plaster of Paris dust.
Thankyou😊
Can you paint that primer over an old oil painting?
I've never tried it myself, but I do know that this primer is alkyd-based, so I can't imagine why it wouldn't work.
I tried the water base and it dragged and sucked up the paint and was very hard to paint on . I have not tried it with oil base primers from the home center , however oil primed surfaces are desirable which I have purchased on canvas,. I will try it because the canvas are a fortune and hard to store.
That's been my experience with most water-based gessoes, too. I like this stuff a lot better.
Best to gesso the panel after priming.
They say to also do the sides and the other side to seal it so that it doesn't absorb water and warp .
Yes, I recommend that too. I didn't do it back then but I do now (shellac is a quick and easy way to seal it)
I'm at cuarantine without any gesso. Anyone knows any alternative? Thanks! And berry nice video!
Hi! I've used several great alternatives to gesso. First, just mix a bit of plaster of paris with some good quality white house paint (I use interior grade), and if it's too rough or dry just add PVA glue. Second, I've used just straight waterproof glue (like wood glue or Elmer's, or especially PVA bookbinders adhesive) thinned down with water. Finally, any version or color of shellac works fantastic! Thanks for watching and for the question and comment! Please be safe and happy. :)
Greetings Trent!
Hey man! (For anyone else reading this, you should definitely go check out Albin's art!...he and I show in some of the same galleries, and of course you should look him up online).