How To Make Hardboard Art Panels for Oil Painting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- I’ve looked at manufactured art boards primed and ready for oil painting from several vendors. At my local Michaels store one 9”x12” Mona Lisa™ Gessoed Art Board™ cost $5.49. I want 50 boards. If I buy all 50 panels from Michaels that works out to about $275. Yikes!
On the other hand, if I make my own hardboard panels for plein air painting, I can save a considerable amount of money. At my local Home Depot, I bought 5 2’x4’ hardboard panels. Each panel can produce 10 9"x12" panels. My son help me cut 50 panels. Those five 2’x4’ hardboard panels cost only $25. Add primer and gesso and some sandpaper and my total cost for 50 boards is $69 versus $275 for panels purchased at Michaels.
In reality, I ended up with only 47 boards. I destroyed 3 panels because I got the bright idea to use Rustoleum automotive oil-based primer. The fumes nearly killed me, and the results were abysmal. I decided to go the traditional route of using acrylic gesso. It took a two or three days to get all the boards gessoed and sanded. I’m quite pleased with the results! I now have 47 beautifully finished 9”x12” hardboard panels ready for plein air painting - all for $1.47 each versus $5.49 each from Michaels.
But the big question is: would I go the DIY route with art panels again? Frankly, the time I spent making the boards could have perhaps been better spent painting. How much is your time worth? Anyhow, I have no regrets. I enjoyed the learning process.
Liquitex Professional White Gesso Surface Prep Medium, 32-oz :
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PORTER-CABLE 380 1/4 Sheet Orbital Finish Palm Sander:
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Website: carlolson.tv
Just a quick note to thank everyone for your kind and helpful comments on this. I've learned a lot from everyone. One thing that can be disheartening on TH-cam is the negativity so I'm grateful to everyone here for your kind, constructive comments. That's how we learn and encourage. Occasionally I have to delete a mean-spirited, hateful, negative comment from my channel, but thankfully it's rare among artists. I wish we could totally eliminate negative hateful trolling here and elsewhere on TH-cam, but for now we'll have to learn to manage the trolls with the tools we have.
Hi Carl. Can these boards withstand alcohol ink and watercolor or is this just for oil painting? Thank you!
Since they are primed with acrylic based gesso they would be compatible with water color though I don’t know how well it work. I don’t know about alcohol ink. Good questions that call for experimentation. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Carl Olson TV
It is fun to do experiment. Thanks for video. And your time.
Just a quick tip for everyone who's going to cut their own masonite panels. Remember to figure in a little extra size for what's going to be lost by the saw blade. So, if you want 9X12" panels, measure out 9 1/8 X12 1/8" and run that saw blade down the center of your mark. You should end up with a panel that's the right size or just a titch larger. Trust me, you don't want one that's smaller because once you put it in your frames, it'll sometimes not fill the entire opening of your frame, then you'll have to put a shim in the bottom to prop it up. It's just easier to build the extra size into your masonite when cutting it out. Most frames have a lot of extra area to accomodate a slightly larger panel or stretcher bars. Paint on!
That is extremely helpful!
A lot of us cut out using circular saw blades. They take 1/16" And cost a lot less. So if you want a 12 inch size out of 48 inches, you will loose at least 3/16". That works out to 11.95" panels. When I started I thought that was great because they would fit into cheap frames more reliably. But then they were a sloppy fit for wet panel carriers. Plus if you sell painting, and you say they are 9x12, someone is going to come at you with a tape measure... So now I cut to full size, and I make smaller panels out of left over scraps. So I would get 3 pieces out of the 48 width, and maybe two 5x8s, out of the scrap.
Always prime the large board before you cut it into many little boards. Thanks for making the video
loved your video. In art school they taught us to paint an "X" from corner to corner on the masonite to prevent warping. easy and saves on gesso.
I use shallac spray to seal both sides of the hardboard panel to prevent bowing before the gesso, works wonders for me. Save more money on gesso becase you will only have to gesso one side.
You seem to be good on not creating more work for yourself... so here is a tip: Use a roller on the full board before cutting them down, sand them, then cut. Instead of expensive gesso, use PVA primer, which does seal the panel as well. PVA Primer has calcium carbonate in it, same as gesso, (gives you the flat 'tooth" you so like), but the added benefit of locking out anything that might migrate from the panel itself into your painting. PVA Primer comes in five gallons at the paint stores... 50 panels plus so many more, for about the same price as a pint of "gesso".
Making your own art boards is such a great idea and it saves you a lot of money in the process. I'm a big fan of making things from scratch. Sure, you do have to make a big investment in your TIME but it pays in the end. You gain the satisfaction of having it done yourself, you learn things in the process. I've been wanting to make my own art boards for a while. Now that I've seen your video, it has inspired me to do so. Thank you for sharing.
Lumeena Mage awesome!
Excellent video and very useful, Carl. Many artists simply don't have the money for gessoed canvas boards. I've painted on masonite (hardboard) for decades and never had the warping problem. I'l with ya, I LOVE painting on it and Home Depot cuts my boards in store from the 4x8 sheets. I also LOVE painting on luan, sealed with flat, interior house paint. Large sizes will warp a bit if not stored flat.
Thank you, Leah! To me it's an enjoyable part of the craft!
Hello I've been doing the same thing for years but I'll be using the floor panels , and instead of using gesso I us primer paint the one used for decks outdoor paint I do the same procedure and you have done the turn off me good. It's always good to learn more from other thank you
Thank you!!! this is just what i needed!
I use Rustoleum 2X Painter's Touch Flat White (and Gray) Primer spray paint on both sides and the edges of the cut hardboard. This is an oil based primer, btw. Hardboard or any board (I use colored Mat Board bought in a bundle of 25 to make Color Charts) will bow like you found out if both sides are not covered in Primer or Gesso. For the hardboard, I use a heavy layer so it will level out, and it does. It works for me, and if you would like to try it, it will probably work for you too. Also, Dick Blick sometimes has some really good deals on untempered hardboard by Jack Richeson (and they have abandoned the old huge sticker on the backside for a much smaller sticker - about the size of my finger). Great video Carl!
Great tips! Thanks for sharing.
I feel certain I have not discovered anything new, but for years now I have been using the back (or rough) side of Masonite for both oil painting and acrylics. I like it simply because of the fact that the panels look as if they are made of canvas or linen, plus the Masonite is a lot easier for me to work on because it is a very solid surface, as opposed to stretched canvas. If you have never tried this, give it a shot. You just might love it!
One thing ive started doing was using chalk/white combo boards as they are already sealed etc. I just lightly rough up the surface with some fine sand paper and then apply 2 coats of gesso before painting. They haven't warped on me yet:)
This is extremely helpful. I have been a colored pencil artist for years, and occasionally do watercolor. I have oil paint but I never used them because I stressed over what surface to buy!
I have used birch panels 8x10, 9x12, 11x14. Some I've cradled, some I dont. Never had one warp. These are about 1/4 inch thick. Also, if using hardboard and are worried about oils seeping through, shellac should seal it (as another commenter mentioned here) and I have seen on other videos. Cradled panels are a bit time consuming for me to make so I will sometimes buy them at Cheap Joe's Art supply here in NC. They manufacture there own and are available at a pretty economical price.
Thank you for your input. A while back I bought a few pre-made linen covered birch panels and they warped after I painted on them - they were too thin. Next time I'll get the 1/4 inch boards as you suggest.
Hi Carl thanks for thanks. If I could add one thing...I make my own headboard panels of half-inch thickness and after my first thin (not watery) warm application I leave it to dry in the sun before a second thicker coat. I've got painting on panels which have stood the vagaries of weather and have not warped. It's worth the while.
I've used Rust-Olium Primer (not paint with primer) to prime Masonite and found it to be incredibly easy, quick and flat with no sanding on 30" x 48" boards. I used three light coats. It has great bite for oil paints. My guess is that he was holding the paint can too close, maybe starting the spray with it pointed at the board, was trying to cover the board thickly in one coat or was not sweeping the spray fast enough or smoothly enough. If you've successful use spray cans before without runs in the paint, you should have no problem. If you have to, you can sand runs - just don't use too fine a sand paper or you will create slick spots that paint will have trouble adhering to.
Tony Ray I need more practice! 😎
Exactly the info that I needed! Thanks for sharing!
I’m glad it was helpful to you. Thank you for watching!
Use shellac on your panels before gessoing them!
acrylic gesso is porus therefore does not totally seal your substrate,
Oil paint will eat up your gesso (albeit very slowly) and damage your panel.
You can shellac the back of your art panels instead of using gesso to unwarp them,
it will again provide the extra weather sealing you'd need.
GreenBlueClouds thank you for the suggestions!
Thank you so much for sharing what you did to make those panels that I will make, too!
Thanks! One thing I do differently than shown is apply a first coat of Golden Gloss Medium to further protect from the possibility of SIDS. Also, the hardboard from Lowe’s is superior to what Home Depot carries.
@@CarlOlsonArt Thank you! I actually have the 4x8 board leaning against the wall behind the sofa right now and I am looking to see how I am going to cut that. The people at Lowes (I happened to get it there, so glad to know it is better quality) said I could score it with a utility blade. Another artist does the same thing too...so, I did buy both the circular saw, (a blade for thin boards) and the blade knife set. Let's see what comes out of the experiment. I will think on getting that Golden Gloss medium. I actually ordered also some Golden oil ground for the board. We shall see what happens! Do you gloss the whole board or piece by piece?
Cool! I just made a huge batch using my Dewalt portable table saw. I cut several sizes from 6x8 to 9 x12 and many in golden mean ratio (1.618).
Though some folks suggested coating the whole board before cutting, in the end I decided I got better results and less waste by cutting first and then priming the individual boards.
One more thing I do a bit differently (I really do need to do an update to this video!): since I paint mostly in oil, I do two coats of Liquitex gesso (Golden is fine, too), I then top that with two coats of Michael Harding’s Non-absorbent Acrylic Ground. But that’s a personal matter. So many ways to do it - experiment and find what works for you.
You can save even more by making your own gesso, I do and found its just as good as liqutex
What's your recipe?
How you make your gesso? Could you please share with us?
First time I have seen you on here. Just wanted you to know that I appreciate all the time you took on this video. You gave alot of great info. to other artist.......This is so valuable to us learning new things....But I do have one question for you. What do you put on the back for hanging your paintings with? I want to do acrylic pouring with these boards or the birch boards........Just learning new things myself. .Have done oils, watercolor, acrylic, and drawings....want to try something else now. Acrylic pouring will be something totally new for me to do. Just wanted to let you know that you did a wonderful job on this video..........Thank you for sharing with us....Have a good day...........
Thank you for your kind comment and for taking the time to watch the video. I’m sure you will enjoy learning acrylic pouring. That’s the beauty of art...there are so many ways to express art. I make frames for my panels and hang them that way. I have plans to make a video about that in the near future.
Borg ending - awesome
Ha! Now I know at least one person watched that video all the way to the very end :)
CreativeMethod.TV Hi, great tips...I use the same boards. I found another board..called "panel board," it comes pre primed, no need to prime it. The only thing if you want a smoother surface you can sand it. Works great.
Also, I know many plein air artists use the MDF board you show here, and no one primes the back...no need to. Some do paint on the back ...like abstracts...lol in the ending...great tips. Looking forward in seein your plein air adventures...I am not that good...but I do practice. The Sienna box is like having a laptop...can bring anywhere and just place it on your lap and paint as well....lucky you with that epic tripod. I still haven't been able to buy one...will you post videos of you painting plein air?
CreativeMethod.TV Hi...I hope you saw my comment regarding Artist Michael James Smith...
Also...now Dick Blick has a sale...ends on Dec 31st. The Richeson panel boards...all sizes..buy one at 3.99 and get two free...they are pre primed..wonderful...also they come in packages of one white toned...beige...and a Gray...nice beveled edges no need for framing...well that's an option...
Also...please checkout Rosemary and co brushes from England...each brush is handmade...the Ivory bristle is wonderful...and the Masters Choice ....when your painting alla prima ..thus painting on top of wet paint...using a sable brush or the Masters choice instead of hog bristles ...it doesn't get muddy...nor takes the under layer off...the prices..well just have a look on the website...click on US and it will give you the conversion rates...15.00 flat rate delivery...best brushes out there....watch Michael James Smith how he works with the rigger and Ivory...also checkout paint with Kevin Hill ..he paints alla prima all in one..doesn't wait for drying...no mediums...and well you'll see...have a look at his newest video of the Xmas in the mountains and he shows you how and what he does to handle wet on wet....
Then....get going using those panels you made...Artist Michael James Smith and Kevin Hill ..you'll get your brushes and oils out eager to paint after watching them....
OIL PAINTING: Acrylic gesso (is not really gesso) is intended for only water borne media, and not oil painting or oil media. Yes, acrylic gesso is still recommended by many well known artists, but that has never been recommended by museums or conservators. Oil based media does not adhere well to acrylic gesso relative to proper oil based grounds. Also, acrylic under painting for oil painting is a meantime to failure exercise, Gamblin has fast dry oil base matte colors for oil underpainting. The best reference may be found on the gamblincolors.com discussion on grounds for acrylic and oil media and is what is recommended by museums and conservators. Gamblin also has TH-cam videos applying grounds. For oil paints on wood/masonite panel (no priming or size first) apply "oil based ground" to the panel. For oil paints on cotton/linen, size both sides of fabric first with quality "PVA size" (takes place of inferior skin glue that is hydroscopic and insect food) to seal the fabric, dry, follow with "oil based ground". Oil on unprotected fabric eventually falls apart. Preparing substrates for water borne acrylic media is different, again refer to the Gamblin website for details. Something to consider, if $10-$100 of oil colors applied by $20 brushes over 1-20 hours of an artist's life, a quality substrate of panel, ground and canvas may be a good investment. The big box store hardboard/masonite is not the best quality either. Large Ampersand panels cut to size makes it more economical for the large investment in ground, oil colors, varnish, artist time. Worried about warping, apply a quality oil based primer (Zinsser Cover Stain Oil-Based Primer-not aerosol) to back of panels, not necessary to coat the edges of hardboard, but it's OK also. Avoid aerosol versions of primers as the propellent and solvents are different than in the bucket version and can react adversely with pigments. Thanks for taking time to wade through this, from an artist that is also a chemist.
Somehow I missed your comment from a couple of months back... thank you for sharing your opinion. I've not experienced any negative effects at all from using acrylic based "gesso". It's a hotly debated matter with very little substantive, real world evidence. Having said that, there is nothing better than the feel of painting on oil-primed linen :)
I have never had a problem with gesso primed materials either. I say do whatever works... if your work becomes so valuable as to be criticized by archrival experts, you could probably afford the best painting surfaces money can buy haha.
@@CarlOlsonArt Vannilla50 is correct, the acrylic sub straight will ultimately shrink/deform differently than the oil mediums being applied overtop, and thus giveaway to delimitation problems in the distant future, depending on the environmental conditions for which the piece is stored. We are talking about a matter of not less than five to twenty years, depending. The best grounds: keep their flex forever, or are rigid and are dimensionally stable forever, or are identical to the mediums used overtop. Zinsser is a good oil based primer which will dry fast and keep its form far longer than any acrylic. The funny thing is, there is debate only because none of these things are apparent for decades, and most kids that argue don't have decades of experience behind them, and some that do- had teachers that told them it was ok. Like me... shame!
I have the habit of pre-painting with a homemade gum arabic oil tempera when I paint on a hard surface, which as far as I know is not for flexible surfaces such as canvas. I don't know if a gesso is needed for this. Can i also use bookbinder glue that is resistant to yellowing? The PVA glue from Gamblin is more difficult to get,
I don't know what else I can order from the art shop and one product alone has too much surcharge for small quantities
Lineco’s Neutral PH PVA glue is fine for this
I have to wonder if the chemistry of the board will effect the gesso and paints in the long term. or the other way around (I've heard that the boards soaking up the liquids of the gesso/paints softens the binders on these essentially saw dust and binder boards, making them crumbly, or that the saw dust and binders are acidic enough that the gesso and paints change colors or crack and flake). I also wonder if maybe just getting a cheap tub of PVA glue (or the rejected housepaint colors you can get cheap at the hardware stores) to paint and seal the back might work rather than wasting gesso which is best used for painting on.
Inspired Content time will tell for sure.... of course there are many works of fine art on hardboard that have done just fine.
Because one surface is typically smooth and the other is rough, using the same number of coats of gesso on each side doesn't balance the warping. Additionally, these contain oils that can seep out into the medium you are using, so gesso is pretty much a must. Unless you put an "edge frame" on the back, any masonite-type surface will warp if it's not pretty tiny. Luckily, the edge frame can be made from cheap material. I use 1 x 2 inch pine from a home improvement store at a cost of about $1/8ft. I paint using both oil and acrylic, and these boards work fine. My preference is birch panel, which is fairly inexpensive.
I like the idea of an edge frame. I'll have to try that!
I like the hardboard video. Here's my video on how to do the edge frame with birch panel: th-cam.com/video/9KUiyQV2JlE/w-d-xo.html
Dan Vance thanks for the video... definitely gives some ideas to try.
I roll the gesso on before cutting the boards down, saves a little time. Great vid! I was doing this in the late eighties before there was a Michaels around here. I think I got the idea from something i read about Robert Bateman.
That's a good idea... I'll try it next time I do a batch.
spray primer works great! It sprays on smooth and only needs one layer and a light sanding. Prepared one last night and starting another painting now. Never warped out of shape or anything. Try it before you mess with Gesso, y'all
jameslpoole I'm glad you had a good experience with it. I may try it again at some point.
thank you so so sooo much!!!! God bless you!
Thank you for the use of Automotive Rustoleum. I dodged a bullet.
With all due respect, his problem was spraying it. He is saying he couldn't use a can of spray paint. No problem, I get it. That is how he feels. But I think a lot of other people are good with spray paint, as far as applying it is concerned. Judging by the urban landscape...
I was referring primarily to the harmful odor… not that I can’t use a can of spray paint. I need to update this video.
As an artist and learning a new skill of making your own panels frees you up to making paintings in any size other than the standard manufacturer sizes offered to make art on, this gives you the freedom of unlimited compositions that do not fit the standard manufacturer sizes, gotta remember in the old days of making art artists did not have mass production go to the store canvases or panels. Having had a good materials and techniques courses where you learn the craft of the foundations of being an artist is something that has been lost in many schools which is sad. Many do not know how to stretch their own canvases. Another unfortunate thing that I have found is in the last number of years the replacement of gesso ( the traditional Type) to the acrylic gesso , having the problem of bowing never happened with the traditional gesso used in the olden days. I’ve been an artist making art since my teens in the early 1970’s if you do use the new gesso don’t buy cheap!
I totally agree… the most attractive reason for me to make my own painting surfaces is I’m in control of the aspect ratio. I’m not stuck with boring 8x10, 11x14, 16x20, etc.
This is what my painting professor suggested we do for panels over buying them specifically for art I got 15 18x14 in pieces out of a 4x8 ft sheet of hardboard for like $13 you can set the boards up with supports like a canvas to make sure they won't warp or stretch too much with weather or wear
My next project is to make linen covered boards. Thank you for your comment and for watching the video.
Thanks for the tip.
You could also argue that instead of painting while the canvas panels were drying, you could have been digging ditches, or washing floors. I often paint and have to wait a few days for paint to dry between layers. That is when you go on to another project. It is always a good thing to have about 4-5 paintings in progress at any time.
Yes, so true and good advice!
Trolls unfortunately are a fact of life and the nature of TH-cam. Don't be dishearten by their pervasive attacks, they have nothing else to do, probably not artist and most likely living in their parents basement, no social skills and or self esteem. Your video is worth the effort and time to create, I do make my own panels. I use Sico primer sealer first then two coats of oil paint gesso. The Sico primer sealer is excellent and in my estimation as good or if not better than my old method of hide glue sealer, then gesso. I lightly sand each coat with fine sand paper. Just for info I also use these panels for silverpoint , works very well. Thank you for your video, well done, for the cost only it was worth it.
Thank you, Mike, for the encouragement. I appreciate, too, you sharing your approach to making panels. I learn so much from folks like you.
Mike, Hide glue (rabbit skin glue) has an added advantage that you can remove it by heating it up to 150, then replace the entire painting onto a new canvas or panel. Other mediums are stuck there for the duration. Mom says hi. She lives in the room above MY garage.
Thank you so much for the info!
imakefoodhappen your welcome!
You mentioned sanding the board lightly after the gesso dried, but did also have to sand the boards before applying the gesso? I thought this was required on a smooth board surface so the gesso will adhere better.
Yes, I lightly sanded the surface prior to applying the gesso. I should have mentioned that in the video. Thanks for catching that detail.
CreativeMethod.TV you DID mention you'd sanded before gessoing.
Cristina Manole my old gray cells aren't what they used to be... thanks for the memory jog 😎
I used rustoleum on panels, and had no trouble with it. I like to have a tail wind when spraying. If you want to do it, they also have it in cans. But I just sprayed. The problem with Rustoleum is that I use the boards slowly. I wonder how long the primer is good for. Can it be regarded as a primer after it has been open for ever. It is a very slick non-absorbant surface so for it to bond the chemical bond should be open.
I use the one side primed boards, you can use either side depending on how you want to go at it.
Make gesso just add calcium carbonate to acrylic flat white (or any hue that is flat). That's inexpensive.
Yep that’s the way I learned it in art school, I still prefer to use the rabbit skin glue instead of acrylic.
Yes that is best however the weave has texture.There are ways to flatten the surface if one wishes. Impressionistic work loves the subtle weave terrain however a Rembrandt technique not so much and definitely not the Leonardo technique which is why he did mostly panels like Van Eyck. But Rembrandt used canvases.
What would be your solution to reduce the weave on canvas. Just curious.I have done a few solutions to that. @@marcshroetter6083
Use birch board. It is a bit more expensive but it won't warp.
Kerry Cutler that's on my to do list to try.
Smart. I am sooo jealous.
Well, I was planning on trying this, but after reading all the comments, I'm even more confused. Seems like everyone has their own different opinions. I purchased a pack of Ampersand Gessobord. They have a slight tooth so not as slick and smooth as the Mona Lisa ones.
You've got that right! There are many opinions on this. Sorting it out is a bit of mess :)
Use Artellio to seal the board first then add gesso.
Did you use the Liquitex Basic gesso or their Professional Gesso? Also, if you don't want to prime both sides, you can simply paint an X going from opposing corners and that will help with the curvature of the boards due to the gesso shrinking as it dries. Great videos!
I used Liquitex Professional. Their Basic gesso is too thin. Thanks for the tip about painting an X on the back of the board.
I was preparing to take our grand-daughter to the Kimbell Art Museum. I've dabbled in Oil, acrylic and watercolor (my favorite) and was re-learning some terms that I hadn't seen in a while and ran across your video, as I remember doing an acrylic on those fiber boards many years ago. Painted one solid black then dribbled white over to make tree shapes. I recall it was fun and easy and would be a fun thing for my little grand-kids to do. My question after watching this (I searched your channel) Do you have a video actually using these boards, would love to see the effects you get with the surface you describe on them.
A couple of years ago I did the 31 day Strada easel challenge... I painted on 31 of these panels. You can see a few here in this video (mind you they aren’t great paintings): th-cam.com/video/VHoj_X9s4mQ/w-d-xo.html
The one thing I would do differently today is do a coat of Golden GAC100 or Gloss Medium, then apply the gesso coats over that.
Skip the gesso and use BIN or even a latex primer, it's alot cheaper and basically the same as Gesso
don seib I have heard that some folks do just that. Thanks for the tip.
I too use the same. Any waterbased interior white primer works, if i am right
Hey i subscribed :) Btw your brother Brick tzar gave you a shout out. Thats how i found you :)
No problem, i love art and stuff like that so your a great channel for that :)
Maybe gesso before cutting to make it easier?
That could work. I’m experimenting with different approaches to improve on the process. Thank you for the suggestion.
Carl Olson TV no problem 😊
A lot of people do that. I would say that the gesso powder is not something I want either all over my shop, or in my lungs.
You can save even more money if you prime your panels with acrylic wall primer, the same they use for houses, it works way better than gesso. Gesso is a scam
I’ll try this
It's cheap and you can use it, but longevity would be a huge problem, especially from around the 10 year old mark, so it depends what your intention is.
@@banzy3 Why. I have paint on my house over primer and it has taken about everything Canada can offer for 20 years, it is hard to imagine that indoors in museum conditions (most houses are pretty reasonable these days with temp and humidity control. Actually, my trimaran is also painted with Behr porducts and they lasted better than the Auto paint I originally used, the extremely highly regarded Awlgrip, 2 pack.
I would not be the least worried about it, I think where Gesso comes in is if one wants a degree of tooth and absorbancy, otherwise it is fairly weak stuff, though obviously has a good track record.
For oil painters, I know one very respected guy who uses acid free PVA glue as a size, and paints over that with B-I-N alkyd primer. I am not sure about the PVA, but the BIN sounds like a good idea.
You just apply gesso on both sides, and the panel will not warp anymore, right? Do you glue canvas on?
Yes the panels don’t warp with gesso on both sides. I haven’t tried glueing canvas on hardboard yet. I’m ordering some Classen linen and Miracle Muck to give that a try.
Have you thought of making your own gesso out of chalk and glue and acrylic paint?
Ros Mickens that's a bit more DIY than I want to do. 😎
Zinsser Primer
home depot $ 8.88 a Gallon.
🖌,. demonstration" TH-camr "
Trent Gudmundsen
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great video..."
wish I has access to someone locally in Denmark who could cut the panels for me...
Alexander Urqhart Jensen perhaps you can find someone who does woodworking and has the tools.
Sorry, more questions. I watched this video again, but I don't think you mentioned the width of the masonite you used? Also, when cutting, did you have to allow for the width of the cutting blade? (I like your video style, to-the-point and informative. Thank you for sharing.)
Armanda Berlin no problem with the questions... the dimensions of the panels were 2 feet by 4 feet. You do have to take in account the saw blade cut. My son set the saw blade to be exactly 9 inches from the back saw fence. So each time he did a cut, the next would be the same width. The same was true for the other dimension...he set the fence 12 inches from the saw blade.
Armanda Berlin and thank you for your kind words about the video.
I glue watercolor canvas to them.
I use MDF board.
Or…seal surfaces both sides with GAC100, two coats, sanded; then Gesso acrylic three coat minimum sanded. Time and money? Why yes. Even archival.
Or use Golden gloss or mat medium. I agree with your process. I seriously need to update this video!
How have these held up over time? Have they been nice to paint on as expected? did they stay flat? How have the paintings held up on the surface over time? ( I realize it hasn't been THAT long, but long enough to have some idea!) Is this 1/4inch thickness board that you used, or 1/8, or ? Also, a lot of painters have mentioned having a rotation of boards, where they have several set up in the studio and put a coat of gesso while waiting for their current painting to dry, or whenever it is convenient, rather than invensting the time in doing a huge batch at once. (It may take more time overall per board, but in much smaller chunks) I'm just getting into painting and haven't enjoyed the texture of the canvas boards at all so am I looking for an alternative that's actually affordable. I picked up a 2x4x1/4 sheet of hardboard this afternoon and will have to see about getting it cut down and go from there :)
The boards have held up quite nicely and are great to paint on. No warping. No separation of paint from the surface. I used 1/8” board. Plenty of room for experimentation so do what works for you.
Nice son!
He’s a talented woodworker! 😎
Would there be anything wrong with using a clipboard as an art panel?
If you have one laying around and it's made of hardboard, I don't see why not. But I would not go out and buy one for that purpose.
Carl Olson Is it not archival?
I don't know.
Airbugg A clipboard is just polished hard board. I use them in mixed media all the time.
Can you be specific what kind of boards? Thank you x1000 sir.
The vidéo shows masonite.
But for studies, anything goes.
Aren't theses pannels weak and affected by moisture in the long run ?
No.
Im going to investigate ACM panel for acrylics and mounting wc paper. 68 bucks for a 4 x 8 sheet. No warp, no prime or seal. Paint away on those 9 x 12s.
I've used ACM for mounting canvas, and I find them great. Not too expensive and better from an archival perspective.
What is ACM panel and where do you get it? Thank you
CreativeMethod.TV Hi, thank you for all your tip videos. I attached a video of artist Michael James Smith ...he talks about the panels he uses and demonstrates his process. He uses Duclex bright white (Matt) as a primer. The surface comes out very smooth and dries fast, he sands it as well. I couldn't make out the Board he uses. I've seen a video or blog and lost it..where the wood is already primed when you purchase it...no need to prime them...just cut.
HOW TO PAINT AUTUMN TREES: th-cam.com/video/XX5dZXVD2tE/w-d-xo.html
The can of paint he uses is good for oil based as well and lasts along time. I have the very same boards you talked about ...with the gesso if you use a bristle brush in many directions it gives a rough texture and you can see the texture marks ...I like both ways...the smooth is great for details and realism.
Always wear a respirator with aerosol cans. Fumes shouldnt be a problem then. But I'm a spraypainter.
Loud Noob good advice!
I do use spray primer with no problem.
I'm going to have to give it another go sometime.
Do you have to seal the edges of the panels also?
I don't know if you have to, but I do seal the edges with gesso just to be on the safe side.
Just be aware of the panels you buy from either Home Depot or Lowes. ALL their boards have a huge "OIL" content and will ruin your painting down the line. Just an FYI as I've been painting for 32 years and have tried them before.
How many of your Lowe’s / Home Depot hardboard panel paintings were ruined? How did you prime them? Do you have a source specifying the “huge” oil content? I’d like to see that and do a follow up video on this. Thanks!
@@CarlOlsonArt I'm not sure about that guy's info. From what I've read Home Depot sells Eucaboard which is formaldehyde and oil free if the MSDS information is the same as when I last checked. What you should do though is apply a coat of Golden GAC 100 or at least a good quality acrylic varnish as a base, let it dry for a day, then apply gesso on top. This prevents any possible contaminants from seeping into your work in the future, according to Ampersand (a company who makes art panels)
Pope Suavecito XII I agree. Thank you for the info!
Carl Olson TV from my understanding oil in the hardboard is an old process for making it. Many of the artists I see warning about this tried it decades ago when that process was still in use. That said, it’s always good to know what you’re working on especially if you want your work to outlast you. :)
Nope, I've been painting on them for years and never ever had any problems. This information is old and inaccurate.
Is there a way to make sure the acidity of the wood does not migrate to the art? There is a lot of chemicals in them thru processing them, including that coating. I know when I read the 'expensive' panels there is a lot on the Ph correction etc. I know I am a young (old) artist, but I do want my work to be archival incase someone purchasing them, I owe that to the person who spent their money in good faith. I can remember gesso-ing a Home Depot piece of the Hardboard or Masonite, once yrs ago and the stain of the board came thru the gesso over time in spots, so there must be some way to seal the board before applying the gesso as the gesso doesn't seem to be a complete seal. Perhaps several layers of the gesso?? Not sure, it would be great if their was some information on that, perhaps a museum or such might know as they have to restore art on panels
VeganMarcella andMore yes there is which I learned after doing this video. Use Golden Gloss Medium to seal the Masonite. You can also use Golden’s GAC 100 though they say the gloss medium is more effective.
@@CarlOlsonArt The GAC 100 is great for sealing before applying gesso.
@@davinci3259 NOPE. That is gloss medium, and is flexible. PVA glue is far better and far cheaper as an underlayment for oils. It is dimensionally stable. GAC100, not so much.
Not quite, PVA often contains acids that can attack the board and the oil paint, so you should make sure that it says acid-free on the label.
Otherwise, I only use PVA for exercise pictures and color swatches. I use a private label acrylic binder from an art shop chain and chalk to make my own gesso.
@@askialuna7717 Book binding suppliers sell acid free, and Lineco, being one name. I am told, but I have not double checked it, that all craft glue such as is used in schools etc... is acid free.
My concern is that not even PVA glue sticks to PVA glue, but I know some top hands who swear by it.
Thing is you have to balance the time spent making the boards against the pleasure of producing nearly fifty paintings . I would think producing fifty paintings and the pleasure it gives heavily outweighs the production of the boards, therefore it's a winner as we say here.
Went to my hardware shop today. There was only 1 off 9mm sheet of marine ply available. Shop assistant refused to lower another pack from up high. He discounted it down to £15. It produced 5 off 12X18, 9 off 15X12, 10 off 9X12, 1 off 18X11, 1 off 16X11. The boards was a bit warped but cutting it into small panels resolved the issue and one long edge was damaged which was cut off. Anyway all good arguments to have a price cut. Hardware shop did the cutting free. Spent the evening sanding down the wood burrs from the cutting. All I have to do is prime and undercoat them now which I will do with Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 primer/sealer £20 for 1 liter. Manufactures claim it will be good for Oil or Acrylic paint. From your video I will have to seal and prime both sides and edges.
Thank you for sharing your experience! I’m getting ready to make another big batch of boards of different sizes.
That is great, but really overkill. Most people would use 3-4 mm for those sizes. But other than the weight...
Can we use acrylic on these boards
Yes. It would be good to first coat the surface with Gloss Gel Medium or GAC100 before applying the acrylic gesso.
@@CarlOlsonArt please advice me what gloss gel medium or gesso to apply. It’ll be helpful if I can make my own diy. Thank you so much.
Golden.
Lowes will cut the panels to size but home debot doesnt. Go to Lowes
+Barbra Kotovich thanks...that’s good to know.
Don't know what Home Depot you go to but the ones near me do cut the panels to size.
That's great that they do. Not all do thought. The one near me does not do several small cuts. They'll cut the board in half or quarter it but that's it.
is the only place you looked at michaels? at amazon you can buy a 12 pack of 8x10 triple gesso'd and ready to go boards for a little less than 15 bucks. amzn.to/2h8NFKu They have a 48 pack for 50 bucks... either of those cost less per board (although a hair smaller than your board), and like you pointed out, you'd be painting...
Canvas panels are not the same painting surface as hardboard. Also, these canvas panels aren't very durable. I have some of these panels that have warped and started to fall apart only after a few years. If I were going to use a canvas surface I'd probably go with one that is backed by birchwood rather than cardboard.
Great if you have a table saw... horrible if you don't.
Why would you say it’s ‘horrible’? You don’t have to have a table saw. You can use a circular saw, a jig saw, or a hand saw. Or you can seek out the help of someone who has the tools… which is exactly what I did in this video. I didn’t own a table saw. Never ever once did I consider that ‘horrible.’ I encourage you to have a more positive outlook.
sorry, i meant to say an "x" on th e back side corner to corner.
Thanks! I'll remember that next time I make a batch. Thank you for watching the video and sharing your tip.
You made a number of errors in your project--before you have painted the panels with the gesso---you will need to "sealed" the with a coat of gloss medium or you will find SID will result....It happen when the glues and resins used to make the board seep through the layers of gesso. It is just a matter of time when this will happen--and it is irreversible--For more of what I am talking about --Look under Golden Paint page on youtube---Look For SID--Surface Induced Discoloration--Sealing Hardboard.
Thank you for this info... while I haven't noticed it in my first batch, I'll add this step when making additional boards. For everyone interested in what SID is, here's the video from Golden: th-cam.com/video/4ORHTuYGO8U/w-d-xo.html
I also like to add--This also saves on the amount of gesso you have to apply to the surface--because the board will not absorb the moisture from the gesso thus speeding up the drying time for subsequent layers.
2' x 4' MDF boards...Be sure to measure these boards!!! I don't think I have ever bought these and had two the same size! And forget the idea of archival because if they last your lifetime, great. Otherwise, they'll be in the dump!
These are hardboard... not MDF. True about measuring but the nice thing about making your panels is you can make them any size you like 😎
Masonite is regarded as archival, by a lot of top end artists. I don't know why they think that because probably every lift HD sells comes from a different factory in China. There was a huge scandal a few years back when some widely used panel products, were delaminating in new homes. It was so common it made all the trade papers. And in the boat field the same thing happened with south asia plywood that blistered badly. I think aircraft birch is a better bet. A lot of people like the aluminum composite panels, but I don't see why, they are not designed for this process, and the core is a plastic. However at least the alloy surface should be predictable.
That said, most people are kidding themselves if they think their art is going to last into future generations. Archival materials are just a sub-hobby of some people.
@@CarlOlsonArt Some artists are using MDF. I hate the stuff, it is fragile, and can offgas, but some big names use it.
i would rather paint on masonite any day of t he week. You can adjust the surface texture. it's durable and easy to transport....easy to frame. Stay away from canvas board! it's not at all durable or archival. You can make your own canvas board with masonite if you want.
I agree about not using canvas board... I have a few canvas boards from back when I didn't know better and they are already warping and falling apart.
CreativeMethod.TV i have been making boards for 30 years. I make them the way you do , and I've never had a problem. Gesso is usually just acrylic paint, most of it pretty average , tends to take all the oil out of your oil paint giving you flat areas that need oiling out. I use flat ceiling white, that's right house paint and a lot of painters I know do the same, including some professional artists, when they own up. Try it I find it better than gesso.
John Noordermeer that's good to know. Thank you for sharing your experience. I've heard some use house paint for priming/gesso.
CreativeMethod.TV I would paint both sides of the board to keep it from warping. I was reading recently that Jackson pollock painted his whole painting in house paint. I wouldn't go that far but it usually makes a better gesso than that bought at art stores. Blue poles is worth 350 million and as far as I know none of his paintings have fallen apart yet. Whatever you decide to use its important you like the way the surface behaves . A good surfaces makes a difference and more money spent doesn't make it better.
You wasted a lot of gesso and time. A simple 'X' on the back of each panel will discourage warping.
You don't discuss gesso coats, but in my experience, three coats in horizontal/vertical layers, sanding only the first works well. This creates a subtle weave with tooth, as toothy as you like.
thebleakhouse yeah I didn't know about simply doing an X but, hey, the boards sure look nice. I did three coats on main surface.
They do look nice. And I agree that the surface is better than the pre-prepped panels. Thanks for your videos!