You can drill a 1/8" hole through your hood hinge and the underneath structure of the hood on each side before removing it. When you put the hood back on, stick a 1/8" drill bit through both holes to put the hood right back where it came from.
I don’t always use them. But I also have a couple years of experience (30 plus grew up kid of a mechanic). There are certain applications where they are impossible to use them. If you’re not careful you will wreck the fittings.
@@AutoRestoMod at this point, yes. The disc brake conversion is about done. I'm not 100% sold on how well the disc brakes are going to like not being boosted, so will have to see. I know I'm gonna like not having a booster to have to fight around to do simple maintenance! One thing I did do, maybe to cheat the effort and save time, is i ordered all new brake lines for a '67 rather then a '66. Then went to a local classics junkyard that had a couple '67s and pulled the line clamps off the firewall. Try to make it as 'factory appearing' as possible.
You can drill a 1/8" hole through your hood hinge and the underneath structure of the hood on each side before removing it. When you put the hood back on, stick a 1/8" drill bit through both holes to put the hood right back where it came from.
@johnbarker5009, you may have saved a lot of folks some big headaches. Great idea!
I am glad to see you with nut wrench. I wish you tube mechanics would use this wrenches when working on brakes.
I don’t always use them. But I also have a couple years of experience (30 plus grew up kid of a mechanic). There are certain applications where they are impossible to use them. If you’re not careful you will wreck the fittings.
It is absolutely the only way I'll do it
Nice and great info! Going to be doing this to a '66 Fairlane GTA, here soon. No extra tower brace to fight around, just an FE instead....
Ooof, the good ole FE, she’s a thick girl. 😂
Well if you're doing a non-power system. That will be a piece of cake.
@@AutoRestoMod at this point, yes. The disc brake conversion is about done. I'm not 100% sold on how well the disc brakes are going to like not being boosted, so will have to see. I know I'm gonna like not having a booster to have to fight around to do simple maintenance! One thing I did do, maybe to cheat the effort and save time, is i ordered all new brake lines for a '67 rather then a '66. Then went to a local classics junkyard that had a couple '67s and pulled the line clamps off the firewall. Try to make it as 'factory appearing' as possible.
Yep, that's the master cylinder I have in my Maverick.
It's not really a concern concern, but I wonder about it being an aluminum master cylinder as opposed to a cast iron one. At least it won't rust LOL.
The Brake tee you need for the brake light switch can be bought at NAPA Part# 652X3.
Thanks for the heads up! I will be getting them from there in the future cuz we do have to do Jackson's 66 Falcon as well.
As always, great information 😊
Thanks Paulie!
I think I have been waiting for a good brake booster serries since you bought the Galaxie, haha. Thanks for the info!
Thanks for another awesome video.
Thank you sir
Great information Jeff!
There is another parts supplier that sells a kit with Master cylinder, combination valve, com valve bracket, bolt kit, and brake lines.
Email me at jford@odarestamod.com so I can import the information to other folks.
Why not just use a bracket attached to the master cylinder like a GM vehicle for the proportioning valve?
We did this on a 1967 drum brake setup and it worked well there. I just wanted to show a different way of doing things.
Hey Jeff, is it possible to use an 82-86 Mustang master which has the ports on the pass. side? I think the bore is a hair smaller.
Brake lines may be the single most tedious jobs on any project.
Oddly I find it quite calming to do brake lines LOL
Part numbers or where you purchased everything from?
I would have taken that shock tower brace off..it would have made things much easier.
The shock tower brace is welded. 😊
Oh..well that changes things. Haha.
I have a 68 that comes off with 2 bolts..i didnt see what year ford he was working on.
1960 to 1965 Falcons have welded shock tower braces. We will be taking these out to use the really cool looking RRS-USA shock tower brace.
1960 to 1965 Falcons use a welded shock Tower brace. We will be removing the welded ones on this car to put in a bolt in RRS - USA shock tower brace.
Throwing master cylinders at
The camera again …
It's getting to be a habit isn't it