Hi . Thanks very much. I have the exact same issue with the parameters not showing. I've built 2 ramp/hold glass kilns using this controller . Both same issues with parameters. I thought I was going mad till I found your video, so thanks. I do have the kilns working as I added the momentary switch and the old/run switch as you have. The Issue I have is that the time Unit is seconds and cannot change. I have a small reference table for minutes to seconds and ramp degrees C / hr to ramp degrees/seconds. Next Kiln I now know how to verify fake/real and respond to supplier accordingly . Excellent Video . I'm in Auckland New Zealand
The controller you have clearly states that it is "SHANM" PC410, not Altec PC410. I have the same one... That explains why the manuals do not match. However, I cannot find the correct manual, and some of the options and commands are different. It apparently does not have selection of different sensors (works only with K-type thermocouple). However, on remote RS232 interface most of commands are compatible with Altec 808, so it can be controlled and set up from the computer. Please let us know if you manage to find any programming or configuration manual for your controller, or the table showing the differences in features.
But that’s the thing, I didn’t buy SHANM, I bought genuine ALTEC, and it was advertised as ALTEC and also was quiet pricey, but what I received wasn’t ALTEC. So I consider it as a fake PC410.
And after that you make the reballing of the chip.. My question is if the fake one work properly anyway or if you replace the fake one with an original controller at the time of doing that chip reballing. I want to build the Reballing Station but i am unsure of buy the fake one, i will do it if it work with your reballing station. ✌
The fake ones still work as they suppose to and you can use them for your BGA station but you will have to get specific type thermocouple and the fake one only supports one type, the genuine one supports multiple types of probes, so the difference between fake and genuine is that some menu items and settings are not available on a fake one but it’s still usable for the BGA station
i do have a pc410 in a achi 6000 but dont run and i would like to know how turned off the LED MAN red light in out2 line remains flashing ........thank or maybe i have not configured the device well.
I have one I bought through aliexpress and while it has the 'authentic' stickers you mentioned, I suspect it is a fake as well. Program will not run - my elements start heating and then it stops (shows program as running but power is cut to the elements)... have checked programs and rechecked but it continues to do the same. Also, the buttons either stick in the down position or don't detect depress. It is very frustrating. Like yours, the menu on mine is not complete like in the manual. Pulling my hair out as I've just completed a kiln build which has taken several months and now I can't operate it because of this crap PID controller. Not sure what to do. Any suggestions?
Try rebuilding physically, as in, pull it apart completely and put it together, that might realign the buttons and might help with sticking, as for the heating switches off in the middle of program, try powering the unit in “auto tune” mode and see if it will recalibrate the unit, takes about 10 min of wait time. Also see if the “OUT 1” or “OUT 2” leds are on or flashing on /off during operation. If they are and your heater still doesn’t work then check the output relays.
@@MaxELECTRONICS I've found the reason for it not running program... it was immediately put in HOLD status because as it turns out, you have to bridge pins 14 and 15 for it to run... it now runs! But I will try your idea of fixing button issue. Thanks!
My friend, this controller works. I have one and is a very good PID. You need to learn how to use it, and how to wired properly. If you want to see all the options, you dont need to enter to the menu, you need to review the parameter. I can notice that you have not configured the device well.
Did you understand what The video was about? I didn’t configure the device at all! This video is about fake item on the market and not a “how to” tutorial video.
Hi . Thanks very much. I have the exact same issue with the parameters not showing. I've built 2 ramp/hold glass kilns using this controller . Both same issues with parameters. I thought I was going mad till I found your video, so thanks. I do have the kilns working as I added the momentary switch and the old/run switch as you have. The Issue I have is that the time Unit is seconds and cannot change. I have a small reference table for minutes to seconds and ramp degrees C / hr to ramp degrees/seconds. Next Kiln I now know how to verify fake/real and respond to supplier accordingly . Excellent Video . I'm in Auckland New Zealand
The controller you have clearly states that it is "SHANM" PC410, not Altec PC410. I have the same one... That explains why the manuals do not match. However, I cannot find the correct manual, and some of the options and commands are different. It apparently does not have selection of different sensors (works only with K-type thermocouple). However, on remote RS232 interface most of commands are compatible with Altec 808, so it can be controlled and set up from the computer. Please let us know if you manage to find any programming or configuration manual for your controller, or the table showing the differences in features.
But that’s the thing, I didn’t buy SHANM, I bought genuine ALTEC, and it was advertised as ALTEC and also was quiet pricey, but what I received wasn’t ALTEC. So I consider it as a fake PC410.
@Max ELECTRONICS... There are 2 versions of PC410. Lite version for BGA or Standard version (Full functions). The one in this video is Lite version.
hi i do confirm the same, BGA station using a premod FW. smaller in the menu.
How about control this from PC?
You can do it with RS-232 port
@@MaxELECTRONICS thanks. Got PSoft and works great. 👍🏼
You use the fake one for bulding the low budget reballing station, right¿?
Yes, I bought genuine one and paid a lot for it but received a fake one.
And after that you make the reballing of the chip.. My question is if the fake one work properly anyway or if you replace the fake one with an original controller at the time of doing that chip reballing. I want to build the Reballing Station but i am unsure of buy the fake one, i will do it if it work with your reballing station. ✌
The fake ones still work as they suppose to and you can use them for your BGA station but you will have to get specific type thermocouple and the fake one only supports one type, the genuine one supports multiple types of probes, so the difference between fake and genuine is that some menu items and settings are not available on a fake one but it’s still usable for the BGA station
Omega-K thermocouple¿?
Thanks for answer all my questions
I believe it is the omega-k
i do have a pc410 in a achi 6000 but dont run and i would like to know how turned off the LED MAN red light in out2 line remains flashing ........thank or maybe i have not configured the device well.
Did you add a button and a switch (start and stop) to the device? It’s mandatory to have those buttons.
I have one I bought through aliexpress and while it has the 'authentic' stickers you mentioned, I suspect it is a fake as well. Program will not run - my elements start heating and then it stops (shows program as running but power is cut to the elements)... have checked programs and rechecked but it continues to do the same. Also, the buttons either stick in the down position or don't detect depress. It is very frustrating. Like yours, the menu on mine is not complete like in the manual. Pulling my hair out as I've just completed a kiln build which has taken several months and now I can't operate it because of this crap PID controller. Not sure what to do. Any suggestions?
Try rebuilding physically, as in, pull it apart completely and put it together, that might realign the buttons and might help with sticking, as for the heating switches off in the middle of program, try powering the unit in “auto tune” mode and see if it will recalibrate the unit, takes about 10 min of wait time. Also see if the “OUT 1” or “OUT 2” leds are on or flashing on /off during operation. If they are and your heater still doesn’t work then check the output relays.
@@MaxELECTRONICS I've found the reason for it not running program... it was immediately put in HOLD status because as it turns out, you have to bridge pins 14 and 15 for it to run... it now runs! But I will try your idea of fixing button issue. Thanks!
Yes, those pins are for external latching switch for run/hold. Also there’s pins for external stop push button
all we need, is someone to extract the firmware from original one
Never seen a genuine one, all new ones you can buy are fake.
My friend, this controller works. I have one and is a very good PID. You need to learn how to use it, and how to wired properly. If you want to see all the options, you dont need to enter to the menu, you need to review the parameter. I can notice that you have not configured the device well.
Did you understand what The video was about? I didn’t configure the device at all! This video is about fake item on the market and not a “how to” tutorial video.