DIY Automated BGA Reballing Station. Make Your Own At Home! From Low Budget to Mid Budget.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.พ. 2021
- Lets Make our own BGA Heating Station, i explain different options from cheapest to moderately priced station you can make at home with eather simple halogen lamps or IR heating heads. choose out of 3 options. Plus i include wiring diagram and example profiles, explain calibration and much more.
Wiring Diagram: drive.google.com/file/d/1-lz9...
Profile Examples: drive.google.com/file/d/1_aS2... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Cool! I never thought of building a station, looks pretty fun, gonna have to give it a try at some point!
I just realised - in the PID programming section you cover the C100 but it seems like we're missing instructions for PC410. Can you show us how to program the PC410? Thanks for the video by the way this is the most detailed tutorial so far I've seen on TH-cam
Great Video Max! Thanks for sharing all your hard work!
I thought of building my own BGA rework station, but doing it different to everyone else out of bits I got to hand , rather than using a dedicated pid controller I though of using an old 3d printer board and display to drive SSR's connected to the hotend and heated bed outputs as it seems a no brainer because it handles 2 pid controlled NTC thermistors that are already calibrated and is designed to drive a heated bed and hotend, should be ideal for the task the thermistors work at over 250c so they should be ready to go without too much tinkering - this will give the option of either inputting the temp through the interface or using a simple GCODE script stored on an SD card, sent to it remotely via octoprint .. or typed in from a remote terminal....
You saved me a fortune bro. Thank you for the detailed guide.
Great video. Certain I willgive it a try and build it too. One think I did not understand quiet well is how the profile is set. Thanks for the sharing
Hi, watch video from 39:30, there’s examples of the profiles, ones you get into pattern set menu, just simply follow my patterns, for example”R” is how fast temperature will rise, so 1 means 1 degree per a second, if you set it at 2 it will rise at 2 degrees per a second. Better leave R value at 1.
“L” value it a target temperature for the current step, for example R1,L1,D1 is all in first step, R2,L2,D2 is a second step, and the D value is how long to hold the temperature till the next step. So for example if you have settings R1-1;L1-80;D1-60...R2-1;L2-130;D2-30 the what will happen, in first step temperature will rise to 80 degrees (1 degree per a second), once it reaches 80 degrees it will hold it for 60 seconds, then switch to step 2 and rise the temperature to 130 degrees, once it reaches 130 degrees it will hold it for 30 seconds before going to next step, once you programmed all the steps you want, add an extra step and select “R” value as “END”
Haha well that's pretty cool. I was just browsing aliexpress this morning and got the idea to buy a cheaper preheater and add the IR top heater to it, and I basically ended up choosing most of the same parts you used! I ordered a Gordak 853, then an IR6500 top heater. Then went googling for a PWM temperature controller and ended up picking the REX-C100. I plan to just use the existing lower heater controller, and I'm going to put the temp controller in a project box bolted to the side of the 853 and add a socket for a K thermocouple to go to the controller.
The 853 I ordered comes with the bracket to hold a hot air handle, so I still need to figure out how to mount the IR6500 top heater to that. Might use some spare 2040 aluminum extrusion I have laying around. Not sure yet.
Great video very helpful.
I got some questions. Did you connect the ground for security? I can’t see in Wiring Diagram.
Real exciting. I started build similar and later realised no real worth - separate part cost, on all small parts counts + time e.g. I just will try sell my DIY , will take some overtime to save money for professional station. But nice project 👍
Very very good
Helpful info. Success is always and continues to try and work... i hope there is another new video explaining how this BGA rework station works
There is actually, I think it’s called “bga reballing at home” , it’s on my channel
Wow so helpful 👍
Thank you :)
Hello, i would like to build something like this. However some parts are a bit not clear for me. How to i wire up the top and bottom heater? I can’t find any pinout and the schematic doesn’t explain it very well to me. Also, do i have to use an RCBO? Or can i just wire up a fused C14 plug directly to everything if my outlet itself is protected?
I would also appreciate a full list of items in the description or here
Hi Max... Its very well documented project. You haven't mention about auto-tune of PC410 controller. Also how effective is Halogen Lamps as top and bottom heater?
You can use halogen flood light as bottom heater and 2 in series and another two in series as a top heater (use reflector)
gostei ficou legal
Hello sir, I watched the TH-cam home diy bga video and tried to follow it, but there was a part where the wiring overlapped in the sequence drawing.
Even if I try the drawing, only the upper ir works.. the down ir does not work... I want to know the wiring connection to the detailed sequence circuit.... Please give me a video...
in Korea...
Hi Max, greetings from Peru. I want to request if were it possible you list all components of this project. I saw many videos about DIY BGA Reballing Station and yours complement with others. I found almost all components you mention in video but it would be awesome if you listed everything. And about the 12V module or adaptador that you use what kind of Amperes it should be have? I hope you can agree with my requested because I going to buy all components in AliExpress comming soon maybe today or tomorrow.
Hi, for 12v psu you need small current , 1 amp will do the job, the 12 bolts only used for alarm buzzer, led light and a fan. What parts are you missing?
Great video! I have a quick question I would be thrilled if you could answer. I am trying to build a motherboard holder jig for a 40 GB PlayStation 3 motherboard. What metal would work for this? The motherboard jig is discontinued, so I will need to make one. I want something that can take the heat and stay straight. I will be using this on a rework station to perform RSX replacements. Thank you.
Use Aluminium, it’s easiest to work with.
Bye! Congratulations nice job as the heated head is fixed, could you tell me what materials you used to make the head support? Thanks in advance
Hi. Just steel from hardware store, something like this www.bunnings.com.au/pryda-nail-on-connector-plate-75-x-190mm_p2430023
@@MaxELECTRONICS Can you take a picture of how the back of my head and the head ruler are arranged? Everything can't be seen in the video
Hi nice video. I would like to ask if the fan would suck in from below or push the air down?
It sucks from below
Hello Max greetings from Turkey this is a great video and i'ts explains everythings.But i stuck just one point about bottom thermocouples final place.Should it be touch mb's bottom or after all this calibrations it should stay on bottom heater plates?
Hi, yes the bottom thermocouple should touch Mb approximately under the chip, amd the top thermocouple should touch both Mb and chip,
You welcome to join our live stream here on TH-cam in a few hours
Hi Max, great video, can I use the lower preheat without the upper?
Yes you just need to setup a profile where the top heater always set to low temperature like say 10 degrees Celsius, this way the top heater will never turn on
Thanks Max!
That pre heat station, can a full size laptop m/b be properly pre heated? Can a suitable toaster oven, using quartz heating elements/rods be modified for the same purpose? Maybe 2 or 3 elements for the preheater. Can the Yihua 853AAA hold a full or regular size laptop m/b? Thanks
Yes you could but then you cold just use halogen lamps, or large floodlight.
Hi mate
Nice video but it will good for everyone if you add a list of parts with relative description so people can buy them.
For example, where I can buy the top heater support?
Hi, just like I mentioned in the video the support for the top heater is just an improvised “z” shaped piece of metal that I bought at a local hardware store, it’s not a plug and play support.
what is the operational voltage & current draw for heating head?
hi is there follow up video with another board
Hey Max, this is a really great guide, very much appreciated. Question about the relays, are they proportional SSRs? I noticed in the PC410 documentation that there are options for analog output voltage ranges (I assume this means the controller can output a signal between 0 and 100% to the SSR so the heaters aren't constantly overshooting and undershooting). Did you set up your station using the analog outputs? I'm quite new to all this so my apologies if I'm not understanding.
I’m not sure about the analog option, I don’t think the PC410 has it, so it just on or off, they are not proportional, just basic solid state relay.
The genuine PC410 may have that option but any that you’ll buy online 99% chance are fake, so they won’t have that option
@@MaxELECTRONICS Thanks Max, that's interesting. It would explain why similar models on DIgikey for example are significantly more expensive. Turns out the manual I have was for the PC900 model, which I think is a step above the PC410. It could be a 900 series option... my bad.
Hello good job friend,, whats name thermocouple K type with flexible you use? I want to use the flexible like your own,
Hi, it’s omega type K
AU $10.59 18％ Off | Original Omega K Type LY-TS1 TC Magnet Thermocouple Sensor Temperature Wire Holder Jig for BGA Machine BGA Repair Work
a.aliexpress.com/_mrFccjO
First let me thanks you alot about your experience sharing.....so , i am just a beginner in Electronics and repairing field ....my question is about the control , why do you use pc 410 ?? I can't understand because when i get the diagram of Rex c100 , i asked myself why you don't add both of them ?? I mean each rex connect with each heater ....i wish you help me to understand that ... thanks 🌹
Rex 100 is a normal PID CONTROLLER, it just turns on and controls temperature, the pc410 is the controller that controls temperature and also different steps. So it does “profiles” of reflowing for main (top)heating element, the Rex 100 controls only preheating (bottom heating element)
@@MaxELECTRONICS Thank you very much for your reply... Alhamdulillah I understand it now 🌹🥰🥰
Hi,
where did you place the two thermocouples on the board?
The Thermocouple for the upper heater directly near the chip you want to remove?
The Thermocouple for the lower heater directly on the lower heating element or under the mainboard?
Thank you! :)
Hi yes the top thermocouple is placed directly on the side of the chip so it touches both, side of the chip and the pcb. Bottom thermocouple is place underneath the pcb usually under where chip is. Bottom thermocouple needs to measure the temperature of the PCB under where the chip is located.
@@MaxELECTRONICS Thank you very much!
I have almost finished my BGA.
;)
For the top heater I'm using my hot air soldering station with a 45x45 bga nozzle, and for the preheater I'm using a electric grill with a power regulator, and the bottom heater a hot air gun connected to the same power regulator as the electric grill, basically I heat under the board until 100-110 degrees, then I turn on the hot air gun until 130-140, and then I use the top heater, works just fine, no burns on the pcb and no bubbles on the bga chip, the only thing I haven't figure out was the table to hold the board, I tried to find something off aliexpress but haven't found yet, do you have any tips?
I’ve just built my own pcb holder from extruded aluminium, you can get it in your local hardware store.
Hi Max, stupid question, what is that hooked up to pins 8, 9 , and 10 on the pc410? Thanks, Randy
You don’t need to hook them up, it’s RS-232 (com port) that can be connected to computer for remote control
Hey, Max. I can't find the part where you modify the lower heater. I see you removed the potentiometer, how do you adjust the temperature and air? Thanks
You need REX-C100, you control temperature with this controller, I only left the heating element from bottom heater, and heater is fully controlled by REX-C100. You can easily find them on eBay or AliExpress.
For the run button you're using, does the illumination run on 12V DC? Is that the voltage the LED inside the controller sees? Also, I'm curious how you connected the button light to the run LED inside the PC410. Did you solder a wire to the contacts inside the unit?
Yes, that’s what I did, but the illumination is only 2-3 volts so I used a transistor to make the illumination 12v
@@MaxELECTRONICS Ah I see, that's brilliant. Did you use the transistor to somehow amplify the low voltage from the PC410 or did you use it as a switch using the low voltage as a signal to complete a separate 12V circuit for the light? By the way, thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.
Used it as a switch from separate 12v power
@@MaxELECTRONICS Cool thanks Max 😊
how much have all the parts cost to build the machine
Great video, I think that I will build one too :) Just a question, where did you source the case you used in the video ?
Thank-you !
The case is actually a preheat station from eBay, you can easily find them. Just search for smd preheat station.
@@MaxELECTRONICS So it is a former preheat station that you emptied and reused for this project ? I spent some time today looking for it but with no success …And buying a new working station just to reuse the case seemed overkill to me for a low budget DIY …
Yeah I used new station and emptied the insides accept the heater, I left original heater and connected it to the controllers. Benefit of reusing the preheat station is that you get the heater, the shell, and the hardware to mount pcb on. You could always just make one out of sheet metal available from your local hardware store, but then you still need to buy bottom heating element
www.ebay.com.au/itm/600W-Soldering-Preheat-Hot-air-Machine-lead-free-BGA-Repair-Rework-Station-/313335946092?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0
@@MaxELECTRONICS First, thank-you for the fast reply.
I did source the right bottom heater with the right heating element (Yihua 853A 600W ) but I was looking for the device that you used as a case for the components. It seems different to Yihua 853A as the size of the casing differs and the mounting holes are not the same.
If I can source this a a reasonable price, I will go for it as you did, otherwise, I will go for making my own casing of aluminium sheets.
On the video you seem that it is also a PCG heater but with a hotplate rather than a ceramic heater as in Yihua 853A. I looked for it but haven't find one for now.
Hi with the C100 is it the V*AN model? I''ve also seen V*DA and V*EN all with SSR type output
Not sure to be honest but it’s not critical in this application. As long as it’s got SSR output.
You HAVE to USE RCBO lol, always!
Hey Max! Quick question, I have 3 heating elements. 2 are 800w and 1 is 1000w. How should I wire them together? Thanks!
For the bottom heater or top?
What model is the led driver and how was that connected.If the 12v is directly connected to light as shown on the wiring diagram with a front switch do we have to have the driver and for what purpose?.
This is of the shelf light, you don’t have to have light at all if you don’t want to.
Hi! I would like to build a station similar to yours, but I want to use 2 800W 18x18cm ceramic heaters for preheating and 1 450W 8x8cm for top heating. Are the components capable to run these heaters at once?
Yes, that’s why we using SSR relays. The load from heating elements only runs through SSR, other components don’t bear any load.
@@MaxELECTRONICS thanks! i heard you saying in the video you wouldn't trust the relay at over 1kw and the bottom heaters would get 1.6
@regele4063 I personally wouldn’t trust the Chinese market ones, you can get a second SSR and connect input in parallel. Or you could get genuine SSR or use cheap one but add heatsink to it, you never know what rating triac is inside of those SSR’s
upper thermocouble Installed on the board or on the top heater ??????
On the board
A quick question - If we have RCBOs installed in our house, why is it important to have a dedicated RCBO for this device?
There’s no requirement to put RCBO at all, you can just add a simple fuse if you like to, I sometimes go overboard with safety 😆
Hi!, i recently asked a question here, but i ended up going with the 240v top heater because i couldnt find a 120v heater. anyways, whats happening is since i live in america there are two hots and one neutral. both hots make up the 240v. so i ended up making my own schematic based off of yours, and it does power on and stay on until i hit the run switch then it pops the RCBO. i narrowed it down to it being the top heater, but cant figure out why its happening. The top heater has a constant 240v always to it even when the SSR's are off, yet the heater doesnt heat up and the circuit stays powered. its only when i flip the run switch it pops the RCBO. i have the diagram if youd like to see it, just shoot me a message if you can help. thanks a ton.
Sure, send it to maxchristensenau@gmail.com
@@MaxELECTRONICS will do, thanks a bunch
I received your email, just curious, does it trip the safety on the rcbo or does it trip overload? I think your problem is that you have 1 rcbo and one normal breaker, so because power comes through rcbo and leaves through another path ( second breaker), rcbo thinks there’s a leak and trips, I will draw up new schematic for top heater for you and email it to you.
@@MaxELECTRONICS I’m not sure exactly what is tripping but I do know it is the RCBO and not the breaker, and it’s whenever I tell the heaters to run.
@@MaxELECTRONICS I also did test without the bottom heater connected and it still tripped it so I think what you’re saying is correct.
For the preheater could we use a large griddle plate so it preheats the whole board?
I don’t see why not, as long as you are using it with a controller.
@@MaxELECTRONICS Thank you for getting back to me. That's great news 👍 I was trying to find the bracket that attaches to the top heater any idea what it's called?
No, I’m not sure, I made one from metal.
Hi! Sorry but I missed a part, Is the bottom plate or the top heating element controlled by those patterns?
The bottom element only commanded to turn on at the beginning and constantly stays on, the top element is controlled by the patterns
@@MaxELECTRONICS thanks
Please can you give us a pdf with the list (and maybe the links) of all the components you used?
sorry it is not possible
Hi, I have a question about automated diy bga rework station. How can I automated yaxun yx-862d++.Is it possible?Would you please explaine in advanced
You would need to buy the PID controllers the smaller and larger one and then rewire your station, disconnect the existing controllers and connect new PID controllers
its possible to use a hot air gun from a smd rework station to replace the top heating element?
Yes but you’d really have to fiddle with profile times and make blower extra slow .
I would suggest using 4 halogen bulbs from 500w flood lights, and connect two pairs in series (2 bulbs in series and separately another 2 in series) and then connect the pairs in parallel. That would make better top heating element and cover larger area, I have explained in the video about halogen bulbs.
@Max ELECTRONICS Bottom heater is too small for pc motherboards... IMO quartz heaters taken from Microwave oven is the best alternative option for preheater, because you can buy 24 cm long, so they're perfect for bigger PCBs. Also power is too small, because I spoke with many technicians who repairs laptops and they told me that prehater should at least 2kW to avoid problems with temperature stability.
I’ve never ran into any problems with it, temperature is stable and those are same parts as the $6000 stations, so if it’s true then the manufacturers of the professional stations need to revisit their products.
Hi, is it possible to use a 120 ac source for power??
Yes of course, you just have to buy heaters that are 120v. (Or use halogen flood lights). The controllers are wide voltage range.
@@MaxELECTRONICS awesome thank you very much!
Upper heater mounting stand
Please make dedicated video forPC410 controller settings... Step by step.... Please
is it ok if the bottom heating element is a little bit smaller than the board we're going to heat ?
i have a ceramic element in size of 15cm*15cm but the pcb is usually bigger
Yes it’s fine
سلام اقا رضا یه سوال داشتم ..شما هیتر سرامیک بالاییشو از کجا تهیه کردی من پایینی رو گیر اوردم که سایزش ۲۰×۲۰ ولی بالای که کوچکتره گیر نمیاد هرچند که توی اکثر دستگاه های حاضری بالایی سشواره صنعتیه
Hi, AliExpress.
@@MaxELECTRONICS Ali Express does not send to Iran due to sanctions 😔
Try EBay
How to mount upper heater in diy bga .
I’ve used two “L” shaped pieces of steel brackets from a hardware store, joined them together and trimmed to size. It’s a good idea to attach a hinge as well so heater can be easily moved out of the way when needed.
hello friend best regards
I have the following question in my country the AC current is 110 volts that will have some inconvenience in the temperature ramps thanks
What country are you in?
@@MaxELECTRONICS Hello I'm from Colombia 🇨🇴🇨🇴🇨🇴🇨🇴🇨🇴🇨🇴🇨🇴🇨🇴
You will have to make the head out of the halogen lamps that you can buy locally, like I have explained in the video, four halogen lamps 110v two pairs connected in series and then both in parallel
hey i need your help. i did all the thing that you told in the video but after a while when i run the machine the pc410 sv value drops down to 25-30 degrees so it never heats the upper plate. first set value on the screen is 230 and when i enter the options l1 r1 d1 values same as yours. but when run the machine it drops down again. after remove the thermocouple and keep it in my hand it heats but the thermocouple temp reachs that sv value which is dropped to 25 it stops heating.
Hi just increase the D1 for a longer time like I explained in the video, add extra 40 seconds and see how that goes.
@@MaxELECTRONICS tried but nothing changed. 2 months ago it was running correctly but know doesnt.
@@MaxELECTRONICS waiting for the 30 minutes but still same ...
Check that your probe is working and no brakes in cable, if it was working before and now it doesn’t then there’s some sort of fault that you need to troubleshoot
@@MaxELECTRONICS is there any guide to follow ? im just a beginner so dont know what to follow
Hi,
I have seen that you have made a video about fake Altec PC-410.
So are you actually using the fake pc-410 with the brand "SHANM"?
Yes I’m using a fake one, I’m not sure what brand it is tho
Please can you write the designation of all components? Thank you
Hi, there’s files attached to the description below and you can find the diagram there.
where can you buy these things?
eBay or AliExpress would be the best bet
@@MaxELECTRONICS thanks mate
Hello, the keys on my 410 PC are not responding, can you help me please?
Check that you have connected the Start and Stop switches correctly, (specifically stop button) I believe the start is “Normally open” latching switch and stop is “Normally Closed” momentary button.
@@MaxELECTRONICS thanks you for responding, are you talking about the pc 410 ? Because i followed your vidéo, everything works but except thé pc 410 when i press the buttons to program it no sign on the pc410 nothing allows me to adjust must have à problem With the keys
Try connecting only power and thermal sensor, don’t connect anything else. See if it will let you adjust anything.
@@MaxELECTRONICS I tried to do that this morning but still the same problem.
Have you tried pressing “Par/Set” button and hold it for 3 to 5 seconds?
yarboly 410 is orginal fake ?
I think it has more menus but still a fake, ALTEC is the genuine brand
@@MaxELECTRONICS Well, I can check with which software and can you give the original altec 410 link?
I can’t because I bought genuine one AMD received a fake. So you never know what you getting from China.
ps3 rsx damaged by direct heat
You forgot a pin 16 and 17 to control the disconnection and operation of the bottom heater
Those pins are not connected on this unit. As in they re not used at all
Why not use a thermocouple from a pen 16, 17 installed on the board to control the disconnection and operation of the lower heater with the upper so that the temperature is fixed, eg 25,125,150
So that the heat from below is not continuous from the beginning of the process until the end of the process
What about 256 c
Temperature of board
What are you asking?
@@MaxELECTRONICS I ASKED YOU ABOUT ELMENT TC 256
THIS TEMPERTURE IS BOARD????
No this is the temperature of the actual element itself, not the board. It’s a redundant measurement, you can ignore this measurement
No this is the temperature of the actual element itself, not the board. It’s a redundant measurement, you can ignore this measurement
@@MaxELECTRONICS thank you
but why dont use this control to down heater for more sefty chip