There’s a guy who built an all wheel drive cutlass but he used an Oldsmobile Bravada SUV front frame and welded it to the already Cutlass rear frame and used a Chevy trailblazer awd drivetrain and put a Texas speed pro charged LSX look him up his name is Brian King 1982 All Wheel Drive G body cutlass
Was just that about you the other day and thinking surely you’d be back soon. Great progress! Really enjoy the show and watching this car come together!
Another thing I'm thinking of while watching the part on your pickup tube is that you could think about using copper tubing for HVAC next time and just silver solder the ends into the fittings, and onto that little strut that supports it. You wouldn't have to worry about any trash inside it then and even if it did, it's a softer material and wouldn't lock up the pump. Not ideal, but also, not gonna trash the engine. Much easier to work with too. Just bend it to the desired shape and solder, done.
I don't think I would use copper, but I DO think that brazing the parts together would limit the risk of junk inside the tube. That is how most aftermarket and factory tubes are made.
For the future something you could look at for work holding that might be a bit cheaper is a block of hardwood. I've got a lot of scrap pieces of hardwood around the shop and I've used pieces as sacrificial workholding material on occasion and it works reasonably well if the dimensions don't require sub thou precision. Your CNC setup and you talking about how easy CAD is has be thinking about getting setup to do CNC. I think there's quite a bit to learn before I get there though.
Great work dude, your work looks factory fresh. Almost like SVT at down and did it themselves. Congrats on not being afraid to do two rework, it's hard to put so many hours into a piece and realize you're not comprising and do it again.
Binged the whole series while im at work. Found you on a whim looking up awd swapping my sbf. Incredible attention to detail and machining skills. Only painful thing to watch was you drilling the oilpan on the block. Thats alot of shavings going in the block.
I'm very happy to see the update. I started following this while researching for my AWD/TR6060 monstrisity to put behind a M120 V12... However since the last video you posted, I actually purchased a new Mustang GT and have even more interest in this. I keep thinking about this project once in awhile, wondering how its going.
Great video again. I bet many people dont get how much goes in to making stuff like that. I sure can. You deserve bigger audience for sure. Been wondering of using camside in Fusion but havent. I use Surfam because have that at work. Few points/questions: -water just plain is not a good leak tester. Because of the surface tension. Soapywater is better. I've seen milk been used as well. -as a machinest, is there reasom why you dont use power feed, or why cut so small cut, chip does not cut if it has room to bend/turn, ofcourse material matters also. -jackshaft bearing base, are you trusting bearing seals or sealing the base with O-ring or sealant agaist outside water? There where gap when bolted together. -welding, wire wheel does not clean in some cases. I can see some sparks when welding in the video, needs to be shiny, no millscale. -oil pick up tube, it clears the crank, did you check about rod big ends? Anyway, keep up and keep posting..👊
Thanks for the great feedback. When it comes to the oil pickup, it does clear everything. I have since drove the car with this modified pan an pickup and all is good, no leaks so far. I am pretty conservative with my machining in general. I am usually only making one and if it a bit slow, I am not to worried about it. I can definitely improve my welding 😁
If you used butt welds and purged the inside of the tube with a small bevel there would be minimal to zero junk inside- esp if your learned how to weld better and use high frequency/pulse to keep the heat out of it.
Great work! Question: @11:41 - re that bolt you eliminated on the pan: it looks like the block flanges out a bit to meet the pan. So was there no way to work in a fastener from the back/top side of the block flange? Either by (1) welding a stud to the pan then putting a nut on the top side of the block flange; or (2) threading the pan/bracket you added to accept a bolt from the top side of the flange. I know it's a pita but in time with heat cycles etc. if the pan starts leaking from that spot the fix would be an enormous amount of work compared to now. Great work - I look forward to more vids!
Love the build. I actually sent you a message on another platform as I have an AWD application as well. My BW4477 transfer case is identical aside from a slightly weaker (narrower chain and gears).
@@npvg yeah, I was surprised when I looked up yours as well. The 4476/4479 use the same width chain and gears (I believe) but the use a planetary setup with two piece main shaft. I am tempted to machine a spacer for mine and see if the 4440 shaft and gears could be used lol.
It would have made the oil pickup easier at the expense of adding complication someplace else. There are pros and cons to each direction. I am not going to say the dry sump is a bad idea, it is just not the direction I chose to go. Does that make sense?
That really would not have solved much and added a bunch of complexity. The jack shaft would still have had to go through the dry sump pan to get it as high as possible. The jack shaft only clears the crank by about an 1/8 of an inch 😁
When I saw the welded tube extending from the oil pan I thought "that needs support". You didn't disappoint.
Your timing is impeccable. I've been wondering if I had missed any episodes.
Great update! I know the feeling of spending hours and hours working out a solution, but the reward is when it finally works!
LETS GOOO!!! NEXT EPISODE OF PROJECT TRACTION IS HERE!!! Keep up the great work man.
Thank you for these videos. I had no idea how much engineering and fabrication were involved in this type of conversion.
There’s a guy who built an all wheel drive cutlass but he used an Oldsmobile Bravada SUV front frame and welded it to the already Cutlass rear frame and used a Chevy trailblazer awd drivetrain and put a Texas speed pro charged LSX look him up his name is Brian King 1982 All Wheel Drive G body cutlass
Was just that about you the other day and thinking surely you’d be back soon. Great progress! Really enjoy the show and watching this car come together!
Awesome stuff man! It’s great to see decent progress. Can’t wait to see the fruits of your hard work!
This is such an awesome project!!
Very Cool - we're continuing to watch your progress!! All good :)
LOVE THE VIDEOS MANS KEEP IT UP 💯 ❤
so sick man, love that its a manual not automatic. thing is gonna hook up so hard
I’m glad you are still at it and posting videos. Thank you.
You do everything well thought out, I love it
Keep it up man! Super pumped for this project! Also, 1st time I saw you with a helper. Fantastic job! CAN'T WAIT 💯👍🏼👍🏼
Another thing I'm thinking of while watching the part on your pickup tube is that you could think about using copper tubing for HVAC next time and just silver solder the ends into the fittings, and onto that little strut that supports it. You wouldn't have to worry about any trash inside it then and even if it did, it's a softer material and wouldn't lock up the pump. Not ideal, but also, not gonna trash the engine. Much easier to work with too. Just bend it to the desired shape and solder, done.
I don't think I would use copper, but I DO think that brazing the parts together would limit the risk of junk inside the tube. That is how most aftermarket and factory tubes are made.
For the future something you could look at for work holding that might be a bit cheaper is a block of hardwood. I've got a lot of scrap pieces of hardwood around the shop and I've used pieces as sacrificial workholding material on occasion and it works reasonably well if the dimensions don't require sub thou precision. Your CNC setup and you talking about how easy CAD is has be thinking about getting setup to do CNC. I think there's quite a bit to learn before I get there though.
comment for the algorithm, this is next level!
Great work dude, your work looks factory fresh. Almost like SVT at down and did it themselves. Congrats on not being afraid to do two rework, it's hard to put so many hours into a piece and realize you're not comprising and do it again.
i love your persistence and commitment to this project. keep up the good work!
love the videos
Binged the whole series while im at work. Found you on a whim looking up awd swapping my sbf. Incredible attention to detail and machining skills. Only painful thing to watch was you drilling the oilpan on the block. Thats alot of shavings going in the block.
That is a completely scrap block only used for mockups 😄
Thanks for watching 👍
Just came across this, Great project, Love the Engineering involved, I'm currently designing a custom suspension for a Challenger, very cool stuff
I cannot wait for this to be on the road. Great stuff.
I'm very happy to see the update. I started following this while researching for my AWD/TR6060 monstrisity to put behind a M120 V12... However since the last video you posted, I actually purchased a new Mustang GT and have even more interest in this. I keep thinking about this project once in awhile, wondering how its going.
Great video again. I bet many people dont get how much goes in to making stuff like that. I sure can. You deserve bigger audience for sure.
Been wondering of using camside in Fusion but havent. I use Surfam because have that at work.
Few points/questions:
-water just plain is not a good leak tester. Because of the surface tension. Soapywater is better. I've seen milk been used as well.
-as a machinest, is there reasom why you dont use power feed, or why cut so small cut, chip does not cut if it has room to bend/turn, ofcourse material matters also.
-jackshaft bearing base, are you trusting bearing seals or sealing the base with O-ring or sealant agaist outside water? There where gap when bolted together.
-welding, wire wheel does not clean in some cases. I can see some sparks when welding in the video, needs to be shiny, no millscale.
-oil pick up tube, it clears the crank, did you check about rod big ends?
Anyway, keep up and keep posting..👊
Thanks for the great feedback.
When it comes to the oil pickup, it does clear everything. I have since drove the car with this modified pan an pickup and all is good, no leaks so far.
I am pretty conservative with my machining in general. I am usually only making one and if it a bit slow, I am not to worried about it.
I can definitely improve my welding 😁
All the OGs leaving is all that needs to be known. If they don't like where its headed, we won't either. ..
If you used butt welds and purged the inside of the tube with a small bevel there would be minimal to zero junk inside- esp if your learned how to weld better and use high frequency/pulse to keep the heat out of it.
Great work! Question: @11:41 - re that bolt you eliminated on the pan: it looks like the block flanges out a bit to meet the pan. So was there no way to work in a fastener from the back/top side of the block flange? Either by (1) welding a stud to the pan then putting a nut on the top side of the block flange; or (2) threading the pan/bracket you added to accept a bolt from the top side of the flange. I know it's a pita but in time with heat cycles etc. if the pan starts leaking from that spot the fix would be an enormous amount of work compared to now. Great work - I look forward to more vids!
Love the build. I actually sent you a message on another platform as I have an AWD application as well. My BW4477 transfer case is identical aside from a slightly weaker (narrower chain and gears).
Wow, I am a transfer case junky and I didn’t realize the two cases were related. It looks more compact than the dodge unit I used.
@@npvg yeah, I was surprised when I looked up yours as well. The 4476/4479 use the same width chain and gears (I believe) but the use a planetary setup with two piece main shaft. I am tempted to machine a spacer for mine and see if the 4440 shaft and gears could be used lol.
What is the input spline count on the 4477?
Jb weld is a good to seal
Nice work. If you had gone with a dry sump system couldn't the pan have been essentially eliminated?
It would have made the oil pickup easier at the expense of adding complication someplace else. There are pros and cons to each direction. I am not going to say the dry sump is a bad idea, it is just not the direction I chose to go. Does that make sense?
Did you consider the gmc envoys oil pan design ?
Man, that's a big diff going forward. Seems like something like a Miata diff for the front would be enough?
Miata diff is really not any smaller, it is the width that is important and the Toyota ifs is really narrow for its diameter.
Just curious why not do a dry sump instead ??
That really would not have solved much and added a bunch of complexity. The jack shaft would still have had to go through the dry sump pan to get it as high as possible. The jack shaft only clears the crank by about an 1/8 of an inch 😁
I guess if the front axle blows so does the engine 😂
Sanity check failed, none of us are normal 🤪