Great info thank you so much. My LG has same problem 22 error but relay is fine. Now I hope to rediagnose thanks to you guys and fix this $3,000 discontinued unit.
Awesome video! Definitely answered some of my questions! I learned more from this video here, than from any LG instruction manual or support web page! Thank you for your quick, clear explanation! You get right to the point, not wasting time on basic, common knowledge! Very helpful! Thanks again!
Thanks for your efforts, i'm old school since 1994 I really hate what their doing with pcb controls keep it simple is the best, all my customers complain "its only 2 years old and it not working" LOL I tell them your relying on 3 thousand components just to keep your food cold, in the long run it's worst for the environment than the old thermostat controls because energy used for early recycling and remanufacturing.
@@mariaparker1297mine is 3 years old and almost 2 months. My extended warranty with Lowe’s expired August 10th and my compressor doesn’t turn on at all 😞
What you are calling a start relay on your linier compressor, looks like a " Klixon " thermal protector. Placed in the terminal box to measure compressor temperature, and disrupt the power to the compressor in an over temperature compressor. Your testing of the compressor winding is accomplished with the " Ohmmeter " function of your DVOM or VOM, depending upon what instrument you are using. Tim
First of all, excellent video. You went through everything in 10 mins that ive spent hours looking for on youtube. My LG runs the cooling fans inside the fridge/freezer ONLY in test mode. I cant get them to run otherwise, even bypassing the door switch. No lights flashing on the board. Is it my PCB board thats bad? Idk what else it could be.
This is a great video, I’ve replaced the board and done so much testing on mine. Was about to trash my fridge until I found this video. I’m so glad I found this it has so much helpful information 💖
@CS-gd9nq so did you fix it with the board? I just checked mine and my compressor is not grounded, but I'm getting a reading of 11.5 instead of the 7.5 he states...not sure what that means. I also don't have the green LED light on the board with the same error 22 22 code, so I'm assuming that means a bad board too.
I did fix the board I had an F-1 code and the fans were still working. Replaced the board from eBay for cheap cleared the code but the fridge still isn’t cooling and all the fans are working. The coils inside the freezer aren’t cooling. I’m gonna test out the “relay” as he is calling it in this video. I had an appliance company tell me I needed to replace the condenser. If it’s just a relay then it looks like it could be an easier fix..
@@CS-gd9nq mine has no codes and the evaporator coils in the back of the freezer compartment only have frost on the pipe above the coils which is telling me probably low on freon or bad seal in compressor given the readings aforementioned...
Soo if you take a black light the filters from what I learned come loaded with a material that will light up bright neon yellowish if you have a freon leak. If you have ac lines you can connect them pretty easy and if they hold pressure then you aren’t losing pressure.. if the problem still consists then you need a new compressor.
Freon leaks are pretty easy to fix. I found a few videos on TH-cam that were really helpful but if part of your coils are freezing that sounds like a circulatory issue have you checked your fans??
Our 2013 LG LFX33975 french-door refrigerator was purchased 1/2014 and cooling has always been warmer than whatever it's set for in both the fridge and freezer. I opted for the 3 year LG Premium Care extended warranty for a little over $300 and after that LG only offered a 2 year plan and the price increased to about $500, but we bought it anyway. Good thing too since shortly after re-enrolling, everything in the freezer suddenly melted in April 2017. After almost 2 weeks, a tech finally arrived and said it needed a compressor, a drier, and condenser. He ordered the parts and left. The parts arrived and a week later a different tech arrived and said it only needed a circuit board so he took the parts with him. I don’t recall if we had to wait for the board, but I think he had one. After that, the fridge was the coldest it had ever been at 38 degrees. Then in August 2018 it wouldn’t get any colder than 50 degrees so after another 2 weeks a tech came out and said something about a large plastic center section being updated so again the part was ordered and eventually installed. That lowered the temp to 40 which is what it’s been since the day I plugged it in except for the time mentioned above where it hit 38. Anyway, one day everything melted in the freezer again and the fridge seemed stuck at 50 so I again called for service but by the time a tech came out, the fridge seemed to be back to normal so the tech didn’t find a problem. I had a repeat of that in June 2019 but this time I was told I’d have to pay for the service call if no problem was found. Like the other time, the fridge normalized by the time they called in mid-July to schedule the service call so I just cancelled. Since the extended warranty seemed to have been a waste of money, and the coverage offered was reduced to yearly while increasing the price, I let the coverage go. Well it’s August 2022 and for the past few weeks we’ve been noticing the milk has been starting to go bad way before the expiration dates, the assumption being the store may not have been refrigerating ‘em promptly after arrival, but then a few days later we noticed water on the floor. The fridge had a 50 degree temp and the freezer was about 20 degrees. A Google search said it had a blocked drain line so I took the large plastic center section out and I didn’t see any ice but the tray was full of very cold water. I left the fridge unplugged for a day but the drain was still plugged so I tried poking some thin plastic tubing from an air shock into the tube but kept hitting an obstruction so I tried going upward as well from the back of the fridge, same obstruction. While contemplating my next move, I found the water had drained and the plastic tubing no longer found any obstructions. After a day of normalizing the fridge, the lowest it would go is 46 degrees and 11 for the freezer so I looked at the board, nothing on the LED. I pressed the test button once and heard a single beep 3x. Both the upper and lower fans in that large plastic panel in the fridge started up and the front display was fully lighted. The compressor and the fan next to it were running as well but the test cycle lasted about 5 minutes before shutting everything off except the interior lights and the front panel resumed normal function like when a door is closed. At that point the fridge was 50 degrees and the freezer was 29 degrees. A few minutes later, the compressor started again. At that point the compressor felt hotter than usual. I should say the compressor is also quieter than it was when new. I pressed the test button 2x, heard a double beep 3x, the front displayed 22 and 22, and everything started running again. Again everything shut down after about 5 minutes and the display returned to normal. Almost another 5 minutes passed and then I could hear the two fans in the fridge start, a minute or two later the fan next to the compressor started and finally the compressor again. Pressing the test button 3x didn’t reset the fridge as expected but just shut down all the moving components and the front displayed 33 and 33. After 5 minutes I heard a click but everything remained dead silent. Another 5 minutes passed before the fans inside started and then another 5 minutes passed before the compressor started again. So the total time to resume was 15 minutes after the test button was pressed 3x. I’m guessing that last test activated the thaw cycle because after the 10 minute mark where the fans inside started, I saw the puddle under the drain tube move and I heard erratic type sounds like water sizzling in a hot pan. I noticed the fridge said it had “Smart Diagnosis” so I found the procedure in the manual and called LG. I had to ask for it and was then transferred to a tech that didn’t speak English very well. I was instructed to lock the panel and press some buttons while holding the phone up to the speaker in the top right hinge until the series of squeals stopped and then the guy asked for the temps before concluding it needed a compressor. Since the compressor has 2 years left on the 10 year warranty, he texted a couple places to call but labor would be on me. The first place was the place that has been here many times but they said they no longer service LG. The next place said $800 if the compressor was all that was needed. I called LG again for more options and they texted 3 more. The first said $500-700 but they were 60 miles away and didn’t service my area. The next one was just a guy's name and when called, it said “call rejected.” The last one was 250 miles away so obviously that would be a waste of time. It’s a shame this model wasn't included in the class action lawsuit that was settled. The date of manufacturer and history of problems matched perfectly. I looked up how to replace a compressor and honestly it doesn’t look that bad since I’ve been doing A/C work on vehicles for over 40 years and it’s only R-134a so I have a vacuum pump to evacuate and a manifold set to charge it but then I read about the board will need updating so I guess that’s out. I’m beginning to think the problem may not even be a compressor issue so I thought I’d seek opinions before having to go into debt for another refrigerator. Consumer Reports says for 34” and wider, the top 4 models are LG, for 31-33 inch, the top 2 are LG, and for 30 inch and narrower, the top 2 are again LG. Maybe the problems were fixed but I guess time will tell. ($4500 for #1) Samsung rated poorly with 45 fridges rated better, mostly LG, but Samsung has failed me on all my other appliances, which seems to align with CR, so I’d rather find the problem with this LFX33975 if possible. Any thoughts? Edit: I installed a $5 (+$2.99 for same day delivery) BPV31 piercing valve on the low side to check the pressure but never realized how terrible my R134a manifold gauges are when reading low PSI. I even took a picture so I could enlarge it but it didn’t help. All I know is when running, the needle barely moved from 0 and about hit a high of 28 PSI after sitting off for a while. I gambled with an evacuation, put a vacuum on it for an hour and then let it sit for another hour with the vacuum off. The vacuum maintained so I slowly allowed some R134a back in while still unplugged and at some point I let the compressor slowly take it in while frequently noting the PSI pressure. The moment the high side started feeling warm, I unplugged it to let the system equalize. The final recharge ended up being a little less than 40 PSI and temps in the fridge went from 50F to 39F, and the freezer went from 31F to 3F so I guess that’s progress for not knowing what I’m doing. That’s the coldest the freezer has ever been and the fridge part is about the same or lower than we’ve experienced since we bought this new in 2014. But I don’t trust it so we bought another French door refrigerator from Best Buy on the zero-interest installment plan because they service what they sell. I chose a model from the small offering on the LG site hoping for a current model with all the problems corrected as Consumer Reports and many sites contend. Plus LG has a sale of $700 off and BB has it for a penny cheaper. Of course I had to add the $599.99 5 year standard Geek Squad protection for peace of mind. Nothing fancy like the window in the door for a grand more model. The irony is this fridge was one of several models offering a BB promotion of a free LG 6.9 Cu Ft top-freezer refrigerator with a value of $714.99 (yeah right) But at least we’d have something to put the food in while waiting for service if this new LG breaks again. Edit again: Cancelled the new fridge since the recharge brought it back to the 38F and 6F it was when new in 2014.
Sounds like you have a small leak in the evaporator, the best way to check is the frost pattern, if you pull the cover in the freezer and only a few on the loops are frosted at the top then it’s either low on refrigerant charge or the compressor is inefficient…. It’s not exactly easy to measure the temperatures, you want the probe very near the thermistor where the machine is measuring it and defrost cycles and opening and closing the doors will affect is greatly as well as exactly how food is loaded, airflow can cause problems with temperatures being off, when the temperature sensor in the fridge is satisfied at the set point it will shut off that doesn’t necessarily mean the temperature will be the same everywhere… I use a thermal camera to verify all the cold and hotspots as a fast check, without that tool you’ll have to wrap a thermocouple with aluminum foil and tape it within an inch or so of the machines sensors and do an average of the numbers to get an accurate temperature measurement… If that’s ok then your problem is airflow, either food is blocking the return path or the fan might be weak, it’s also possible to have ice on the evaporator block airflow. That can also be caused by low refrigerant charge or lack of airflow or a leaking door seal that’s allowing humidity to freeze that’s more than the defrost heater can manage….
@@robertw1871 Thanks for the input! I believe you’re spot on. I think our problem that prompted the post originated because our 13 year old left the freezer drawer slightly ajar for several hours while he was gaming and couldn’t hear the beeping so I suppose the humidity overload was enough to cause issues but after unclogging the drain, and waiting 24 hours to normalize, the R temp was stuck at a low of 50F and the F temp hit a low of 20F. I’ve read about something in the system that either because of age or an unforeseen chemical reaction, becomes caustic to the components. It did hold a vacuum and after I charged it with about 8-10 oz of a small 12 oz can of R134a, I used a vintage Micro-Tect (209901) electronic leak detector (sniffer) over everything and couldn’t find a leak anywhere. I’m shocked the effort actually worked after the official LG factory rep, told me in broken English that it needed a new compressor. I’m wondering if all those other “defective” refrigerators could’ve been saved by merely installing fresh R134a. For years we’ve been using a pyrex refrigerator thermometer and a Taylor Lithium refrigerator thermometer but opening the door to read them wasn’t ideal so we recently settled on an Acu-rite (00515M) ($35 Amazon) wireless refrigerator thermometer that has two sensors and a programmable alarm that can be set to trigger when a temperature is out of range for longer than five minutes. We don’t have to open a door to read it and along with the current temp, it displays the high and low temps in the past 24 hours. The freezer is currently 8F but in the past 24 hit a low of 3F and a high of 16F, the fridge is 38.5F and in the past 24 hit a low of 36 and a high of 41. Perhaps the LG is running on borrowed time but so far, so good. Thanks again.
@@annettesurfer Can’t say I’ve encountered aging components causing an issue, for the most part they are either functioning or not, functioning out of calibration isn’t something that’s common with thermistors and digital electronics. The vast majority of compressor failures are not able to build any pressure at all, the system stay’s equalized, so no, recharging them would not bring them back… If it’s not maintaining temperature then it’s definitely struggling, I’d think it was either low on charge again, or has build up some non-condensables (air) in the system by pulling it it under vacuum from the low side in the evaporator, it’s either that or the compressor has indeed become inefficient… Unfortunately…. Hope it says working for you, have a good weekend…
Hi again, I forgot to add the the board part number is also on a white sticker on one of the transistors/diodes (or whatever they are called) to the right and a little up from the printed label on the board. Just above all of those silver metal cards/bars sticking out. Thanks again!!
Hi, Michael, I have LG LMX2596ST refrigerator which I bought 9-10 years ago. It does not cool on both compartments, so I checked the condenser which is good, I changed the evaporator coil assembly (New); I changed the LG 6500JB2002X Temperature Sensor, Single Unit; I also changed the thermistor assembly, but it still is not working. what do you thing I should do next? I bought refrigerant to put into it but I am a bit hesitant so would want to explore other checking points.
This is a great video. I have the exact same fridge from 2013, same model compressor and I get the 22 22 like you do with no LED blinks on the PCB. LG was quick to direct me to warranty repair, sent me 5 local contacts who want $1,000 or more to come and fix it while the "inverter compressor" which LG and Samsung proudly display on the sales floor as 10 year warranty, the best in the business but with no teeth. Like you I found out that the 22 22 doesn't really mean a bad thermistor assembly (next to the compressor) because I replaced it and same 22 22. By the way I am told this compressor has no relay in this kit as that function is controlled by the PCB. I also have a reading of roughly 9 ohms across two pins and nothing on the other two. The compressor does fire up but rarely gets hot to the touch which I am told is normal as well. Watching your video, I am now inclined to think that LG was too quick to throw this in the bad compressor bin (I should have known as the tech support rep told me it costs about $60 for someone to fix, clearly had no clue). My issue is that I get air in the fridge compartment from a side left vent (closest to the left door) but nothing from the back vent. The vent in the freezer works but blows warm air. What I am trying to figure out is if it's the fan (in the fridge compartment) or the PCB board or a bad compressor or lack of freon (which means there's a leak in the system). I imagine if the PCB board is bad, would it result in one of the fans not working? Is that the core issue? How did you know you had a bad PCB? Sorry, many questions and I hope you are able to help.
Dear two wheeling, my broken refrigerator scenario is very similar to yours. Mine is 2012, with almost the same issues (left upper vent in fridge blows, nothing from back vent, warm air in freezer) I am/was holding off on the compressor replacement but instead ordered a refurb PCB board. After swapping out the PCB boards, I get same results, 22 22 error code, only warm air. I found out that no diagnostics light flashes means the board thinks all is working well. I was going to rewatch video about the start relay / thermistor when I read your post. How do you get to back upper fan? Do we both have bad evaporator coils? I have as many questions as you do...
@@KooperSalmo Can you direct us to which capacitor on your board blew? I don't get any flashing lights either on the LED. Do you think it could be the board and not the compressor? In your case, you didn't need a new compressor?
I literally have the same symptoms as you. I get 6 flashes on the PCB. Compressor runs. Gets little n slightly louder about 10-15 min later then shuts off and retries in 6 min. Runs runs then repeats again. Fridge is warm.
@@oleg916 LG came out, they replaced the evaporator coil, condenser coil, and the compressor. Board was fine I guess. Fridge is working finally. Thanks for the help. Kinda.
Your video is GOLD. Searching high and low on how to test the compressor. LG is power cycling with a 6 LED blinking code and freezer and fridge are warm. Linear compressor that may not be working as advertised ? Will run and grab my Fluke meter from the office and will report back. Many many thanks for this spot on video.
@@soccer2live Hi. With some courage, I reached out to LG. If you google, there are class action law suits pending against LG for their compressors. After some stern but diplomatic chats on the phone, they extended a 'fixed rate' service for the unit - whatever it may take to resolve a single fault (important to note this). Told them that the fridge would no longer remain cold. The tech came onsite and was excellent from London, Ontario. He noted this to be a common issue and it was the batch of compressors that they purchased. Personally, I hunted for a unit that was made in South Korea rather than Mexico but still got stung by the faulty compressor. The tech replaced the compressor and this was a few years ago and crossing my fingers, still ice cold. The tech noted that if the plumbing is at fault, toss the fridge. Personally I am sold on LG again since they did fix the fault and I believe I paid around $350 for the repair. Be 100% clear on the fault(s) because they log them into their database. If you deviate the fault afterwards, they will demand a new service call and fee. The tech also updated the firmware on the controller board so best if you follow the LG official tech. I am in Canada and can share the details of our tech who performed the service. Highly recommend this outsourced company but is only practical if LG is paying for the compressor. That is, $350 will not cover the expense of the new compressor + installation fee. If LG still offers this fixed fee service call, suggest that you consider it. The company who serviced our LG from London, Ontario was appliancesrepairservice.ca/ - Kevin Parmar was the tech and is extremely knowledgeable. Highly recommended. He mentioned that the replacement compressors from LG are solid. Not sure how old your unit is but for us, ours died in about 5 years but going from memory here.
Hello. Would you share your case? I have the same situation and I’d like to make sure it’s the compressor before I spend the money. Could it be the capacitor? Thank you
@@JoseDiaz-yo6qj Hi. How old is your fridge? I recall following the above video which is excellent but could not resolve the fault. Raised a stink with LG and how our fridge did not cool for the 10 years they claim on the compressor. You can attempt to test with a new run capacitor which DID fix our outside AC unit's fault - just order one through Amazon to test and return if not required. For our fridge, LG offered a single fixed fee repair service to resolve our fault. We did contact local repair firms and each was more expensive than using this LG offer which would be with a new compressor + onsite installation. If the fault is in the plumbing - the fridge is garbage - the onsite tech noted this comment. The LG authorized tech also stated they repair many brands (out of London, Ontario) and that the new LG compressors are solid. Ours is still running strong (was installed at start of covid time so a few years now). The root cause was that LG used some outside firm for the compressors and they did not live up to the quality of 10 year use. Important to note that only the authorized tech has access to the firmware updates which were installed onto our fridge after the new compressor was installed. IMHO, we are a LG family again. Personally bought our fridge after years of research and used an old unit till we were ready. Our fridge is made in South Korea (HQ) rather than Mexico because the quality was not yet known about their factory in Mexico. There are class action lawsuits in motion against LG for their faulty compressors but no idea if and when that will be resolved and with which amounts. Highly recommend to consider the fixed fee service if the unit is out of warranty but be stern about the warranty of the repair which I believe was another year after installation of the new compressor. Hope this helps.
Thank you! I just bought a new compressor because it wasn’t reading like the old style, and the new one was reading the same as the one that I thought was broken!
Dude, good job on the video! I enjoyed it, you gave me the rundown on everything! You got a chuckle out of me too, “ You’ll be in heaven…” lol. Good job man
What issues were you experiencing with the fridge? How did you verify that the PCB board is bad rather than the relay? My fridge is cooling poorly and get the 22 code as well. My board doesn't seem to have a LED light. When I press the test button, all fans work and compressor turns on. Freon level is good. I checked resistance on thermistor and it seems to be good as well.
Thank you for the tutorial to fix the refrigerator, I have the same model and brand and still trying to fix it because the freezer does not seem to work at all. I'll try to follow your instructions and hopefully it will fix it. 😄😄😄
I bought an LG bottom/top fridge with the linear compressor back in Aug 2020. It just failed a couple days ago (Jan 2023). Compressor failure. Incredible that it only lasted less than 3 years. Thankfully it will be covered under factory warranty. Waiting on the LG man to come out in a few days.
In Addition! Most linear compressors on LG Frech Door and two doors have 10 years Manufacturer Warranty! no labor tech charges on the first 5 Years. So Call LG if your compressor is the problem ;o)
If made by LG within last 13 years. Since 2010 when Lg decide to make their own compress. And it is not cooling. It’s a compressor. The compress uses a woofer type compressor.
Fridgerator ???? ha ha Love it ! hmmm i am from MD and my family says Fridgerator. I hear people in Ohio say Fridgerator too. Maybe Pennsylvania too. Gotta love the Northern accents . Does anyone here eat Dippy eggs ? By the way I Bought a house with a 2 year old LG , French Doors , and it stopped cooling , i heard about the LG Nightmares and deemed it was not worth it losing food again . I purchased a GE and it arrives tomorrow . Wish me luck. Appliances these days suck ! ooh but they are so energy efficient ! blah ..Aite den . peace .
My Kemore E (LG) PCB board doesn't have an LED light. When doing the 2nd test, it shows error 22, but my compressor and fans are running fine. How do I check without LED blink?
I have a new LTCS20020S 20.2 top freezer. Here's what I know: 1. My first one had a weak/faulty compressor from the factory. Freezer was fridge temp, fridge was room temperature. That went back thanks to store and not manufacturer policy. 2. Second fridge had an evaporator fan that died almost immediately. There's a 3 pin (older) and 4 pin (newer) fan. In the 20020S the service manual calls for the 3 pin fan and it will not fit in a 4 pin application. The 4 pin fan's yellow wire is not doing anything in the quite thankfully "dumb" refrigerator, and the OEM replacement part is more robust than the OEM factory part. My fridge went from frozen coils in a cold freezer and warm fridge to actually functional. I did find and buy the correct 4 pin fan which is also curiously larger and a different case shape than the original despite the same OEM part #. It was less than $40. I'll keep my "donut spare" fan that works but is missing a 4th (yellow) wire [solder and heat shrink new fan to old plug, yellow not connected] for a rainy day, but let my frustration be your guide. If you couldn't run fast enough to avoid being given an LG refrigerator or you bought one intentionally because their other products aren't 100% crap (especially their portable air conditioners) return it. Failing that, if the freezer and fridge are both warm and plugged in, return it by any means necessary if possible. If the freezer is really cold and ice is accumulated, clean your condenser coils at bottom if dirty and check that your evaporator fan and condenser fan both run when the compressor is on. No experience w/ the condenser fan, but the evaporator fan is replaceable with a Phillips screwdriver, small zip tie, and a 10" piece of duct or foil tape. If your refrigerator doesn't blow air, it will most definitely suck.
Joe Abb 3 hours ago Hi, Michael, I have LG LMX2596ST refrigerator which I bought 9-10 years ago. It does not cool on both compartments, so I checked the condenser which is good, I changed the evaporator coil assembly (New); I changed the LG 6500JB2002X Temperature Sensor, Single Unit; I also changed the thermistor assembly, but it still is not working. what do you think I should do next? I bought refrigerant to put into it but I am a bit hesitant, so would want to explore other checking points.
Good stuff, I hear my compressor running, but its not cooling. I don't hear the fans running but I did see the middle inside the fridge run when I pulled back the panel and locked the doors it started running. Also the fan in the back of the Fridge near the Compressor is also running. I wish mine was the Relay, easy enough to change, I will be checking the Board and do that test and if my LED doesn't light it, then it might be the board. You are saying if my compressor is grounded its not worth fixing? My Fridge is only 3 1/2 years old. Im sure a compressor would be cheaper than paying 4k again? Thanks again for sharing ;O)
Hi, I noticed you have multiple videos but it looks like the videos are covering the same subjects. Either way, all you videos are very good and have been most helpful to me and my similar situation. I believe I have a LG Refrigerator very similar to yours with a very similar problem. I hear the relay click when I put the plug back in, but I also have no lights on PCB. Your videos are THAT much more valuable to me as my quasi-local LG repair wants to come out and replace my compressor (still under warranty) and gouge me for $500.
Hi again, so I have the LG LFX28978sw/02. Everything I checked seemed to work, the LED light did not work when I walked through the test button. I disconnected the con21 plug and tested the board and it only got to 150 volts not the 200 the test required. Anyway my question is, is there two evaporator fans or actually three, in the LG. I know there is one by the compressor and one in the back of the freezer and they both work, but is there one inside the back of the refrigerator as well? Thanks, guy
Great video! My compressor and thermal overload went bad as will with really high resistance values. I have the FLB075LANA but have read the new updated replacement part is FLS075LANA part number TCA38151706. Should the circuit board or software be updated replaced as well if I purchase this new compressor?
Lordy exactly like my LG. And I bought it around 2012 or 13. And I thought it was the compressor. I’m not sure. I kept her it’s never been clean in the back. Oh boy.
thank you for the video, my interior fans are not blowing in the freezer or fridge, compressor is warm and softly vibrating, but entire unit not cooling, is it my compressor in your opinion? thank you for your help
I have a LG with linear compressor. Runs and sounds normal, temperatures will intermittently rise and I get 6 flashes on the LED on the PCB. All fans operate normally, and the coils have all been cleaned. I’m stumped, any ideas?
Hi my fridge is not cooling when open back side compressor fan is working, and compressor not working. Like every 5 mint compressor try open start it self but couldn't can you help me
what's tricky with these new LG linear compressors is they seem too be running even after they have gone bad. so the fridge can be running with the fans and compressor but nothing cooling. these LG linear compressors are trash too, only having a life span of 5-6 years
I have a Liner compressor, I checked everything, I changed the computer panel,and my three fans work. So it runs but it doesn’t cool. So I guess it could be the relay switch or maybe low on Freon, I really don’t want to buy a new one. Do have any suggestions?
I have no cooling, everythings kicking on, finally it started flashing 6... Great so either bad capacitor, bad PCB, or couldn't read last part... any suggestions?
So my led don't blink at allwhen testing it ,so if I understood your info( WHICH IS GREATLY APRICIATE ) I NEED TO REPLACE DE BORD ,ANY INSTUCCIONS ON THAT TOPIC ,. PLEASE???
Great video! I have a Kitchenaid model KFIS29PBMS00 with dual evaporators. I have ruled out door seals, compressor, condenser fan, condenser coils, evaporator fans, and thermisters. All diagnostics pass. Fridge is at 45 degrees and freezer at 27 degrees for several months. I am down to either the 3-way valve or main board. How can I test my 3-way valve and/or main board? Thanks.
I have an LG made about 2012 it makes a constant clicking noise on the electrical panel. I looke for the relay but its just got a capacitor attacked to the left side of the compressor. The fridge gets power just wont get cold. Idk what i can do.
Hi I have a Kenmore Elite refrigerator with LG Liner compressor. It stopped cooling, then I started adding more refrigerant it would cool to 32 degrees on the freezer side but won't go below that. No lights on the PCB no error codes, running amps 1.6 Amps. Suction side of the compressor cold to the touch and output side warm/hot. Compressors bottom hot to the touch. All fans work ok. Takes more freon then needed to cool to 32F. What could be the problem??
I have the same problem with my LG bought in 2011. I replaced relay, checked the compressor and both are working. Error code is still 22. Can't see anything burnt on PCB. LED is not flashing. Should I replace PCB?
So is it safe to assume that if everything appears to be working, fans, compressor, thermostats and the led is not blinking at all that the board is bad? I’ve tested everything I could with a multimeter and everything appears to have passed but the led never flashes, and the fridge isn’t cooling.
I've an GBB72NSEFN not cooling fan works compressor humming test button all ok. Now meseared the input current only 0,16 amps compressor getting a little hot after some time then measured the voltage to the compressor only 55V and the economic 65V so conclusion bad pcb board while visual looking good. Any suggestions?
I have a linear compressor. It used to make knocking noises in the past, but they would go away, RIght now, it's vibrating like the fridge is OK, but both internal fans not running. Sounds like control board?
No error codes. Diagnostic LED not flashing. Compressor running, but coils are warm. Now know there's only one fan. In the two test modes, I get air flow thru the top in #1, and only the bottom in #2. So damper works. Must be no freon or a wheezy compressor. Bummer,
got a new updated compressor for mine, thermistor harness as well along with the PCB reprogram kit. the terminals on the new compress are backwards of the other, harness plug doesnt fit how do you know which goes to black and red
Good evening, I just purchased this PCB board and installed it in my LG refrigerator model # lmxs28626d and it still shoots that same 22 code. That code says it’s the start relay for the compressor I tested the relay and I have continuity and test good. I changed the temp sensor in the freezer and I tested the old sensor out of the freezer and fridge both indicate around 6.8 ohms and slowly increases when put in ice water. I tested the 3 poles on the linear compressor 7.8 to 9.0 ohms out of two poles and nothing out of the others when switched around so that indicates a good compressor. My problem is that the freezer will cool the water down to 40 degrees and the fridge 46 degrees I open the door and I don’t feel the fans in the freezer blowing When I put the fridge in test mode everything turns on all fans turn on and the the blend doors open. The compressor changes tone and is blowing cold but as soon as I take it out of test mode inside fans turn off except for the small fan behind the filter the compressor continues to run but changes tone slightly. I’m at a loss to why everything works in test mode but not out
LG with Linear compressor with inverter on the left is not cooling. Compressor starts for a few minutes then stops. When compressor is off, refrigerant PSIG at around 85. PSIG only drops to around 74 during those few minutes compressor is on. I couldn't get a solid number on the comp winding (probably 7/8 ohms not sure), because it was jumping up/down all over meter's display. Ground was ok. What is the reason only 10 PSIG dropped during several minutes compressor is on? Can linear compressor run without changing PSIG? Is compressor bad? Is the inverter bad. Is the ECB is bad? With the "old" & "inverter" comp style, refrigerant will be dropping non-stop while compressor is on until it equalized (let's say 0/+2 PSIG) but with this, linear comp, I just don't know what is at fault. Any idea?
What's the chances I have the exact same error code 22/22 in the exact same issue no LED lights also I tested voltage after removing, com one only 117 volts ac it has to be the board
Have you ever fixed this fridge? I have an exact same issue. Mine is 9 year old LG fridge. Checked everything and has code22 but no clicking noise from the relay and compressor is running. Is it time to shop new one?
I think I have the same problem that yours has. The front showed the same numbers, 22 22, but the light doesn’t flash. Does that mean I need a new board?
hi really need help her why is my frigdenot blinking evrtime i press tha small button in pcb board amd if i turn it on only all fans are working inside and out.what coud be the possible prob for this.thanks for reading
I wonder if you answer your questions, I have a lg and the only thiung that works is the fan by the compressor. no lights no compressor no other fans NOTHING so do you have an opinion?
My LG is not cooling. The fans are blowing, the condenser is humming, I felt airflow in the fridge in both test modes. The LED on the board does not flash. In the video you said your board is bad because the LED doesn’t flash. Does the light not flashing mean the board is bad or that everything the board checks is fine?
@@cassandrakwielford2999 hi Cassandra, hopefully it goes better for you! LG sent a repairman (after 3 weeks) who replaced the compressor. 1 week later it stopped cooling again. 3 weeks later again the same repairman replaced the condenser. 1 week later it stopped working again. 3 weeks later again another repairman came out and said he’d have to replace the compressor and condenser and flush the lines. I escalated the issue to the president of US LG offices who gave me a depreciated credit for my fridge because it was 3 weeks past the covered warranty! Hopefully it goes better for you! We spent the whole summer living out of a camping cooler!
@@mnjeurope wow thanks for responding!! We have someone coming already today from LG. Our fridge & freezer both aren’t cooling. Condenser humming, fan next to it works. When in the test modes both freezer and fridge blow air but they don’t otherwise. Our led light also doesn’t work. It’s a 6 year old fridge so I think only the condenser is under warranty but still have to pay labor fees. We’ll see what he does when he gets here today. I’m picking up a mini fridge from target today to live out of 😂. So did you get a new fridge then?!
@@cassandrakwielford2999 the ice maker not working was the tell tale sign the fridge wasn’t cooling anymore. The new compressor cooled the fridge for a week, but then it stopped working a week later. Hang onto the mini fridge! We replaced all our food a day or two later only to have it spoil again the next week. There is no getting the smell of thawed crab legs out of the “freezer”! The honeymoon of a “working” fridge was short lived for us! Hopefully yours keeps going!
@@cassandrakwielford2999 what was your result ? I just bought another fridge from Home Depot ... a GE French Door fridge supposedly MSRP over $2000 but oooh ! onsale ! I eneded up paying $1400 with a HD credit card Promo code , thats with delivery and installation .. i will follow up here and let you know how it goes .
We tested our compressor, same model as yours, and the repair guy said that it was busted. At first he said we needed more Freon, which we asked him to add more to it. Then when he hooked up the Freon meter, it said the Freon was 54 F degrees inside. He said, that's bad, it should be cold. So then he said, that the compressor is bad because the freezer temp is 54 F. Is that true? I feel like we have been bamboozled. Is there a another way that we can check to confirm the compressor is good or bad?
Might be a clogged capillary tube or liquid line drier. I'm having this issue right now. Not necessarily the techs fault. This is a commonly misdiagnosed problem and it has been in refrigerators for 30 years.
I am having the same problem i replaced my start relay it it didn't fix the 22 error. So i replaced the PCB board and the 22 error is still present and the fridge is still not cooling... what else could it be?
Hello. I have a Kenmore Elite (LG) refrigerator. Test Mode 2 shows a code 22 on the front upper displays. No error codes from the LED on the PCB board. The fuse is fine. All fans are functioning correctly. Checked the pins on the compressor as you showed in the video. Nothing, nothing, and 9.5-10.5. Does the 9.5-10.5 mean that the compressor is bad? Compressor model = FLB075LANA
@@jaimeblazer2002 Not really. Resistance across the pins was fine on mine. But my compressor needed to be replaced. It wasn’t compressing the refrigerant. Probably a failed seal.
@@RyanMcDonnough so on 2 pins i get about 8.5-10.5. On the other pin I just get OL which means open line. My freezer gets to about 30 degrees. I put a water bottle over night didn’t freeze it but it got it Icy. The line on the compressor gets frozen.
@@jaimeblazer2002 It’s clearly working. If there was some sort of failure of the motor that could be tested at the pins, then I doubt it’d work at all. My guess is that the issue lies elsewhere.
@@RyanMcDonnough it doesn’t get cold enough. I get the error code 22 and sometimes the 6 blinking lights. Seems like the compressor over heats or something
I'm confused. I look up the relay and the internet calls it a thermistor.... then I look up how to test the thermistor and it brings up a differant part. I'm so confused. What you call the relay on mine is solid. So I went ahead and ordered a new control board. Did not fix the issue.
The compressor runs, the coil fan works; and no blinking light on the circuit board ; but neither fan seems to be working - the fan in the freezer section or the fan in the upper refrigerator section. Can this be a sensor, as it seems unlikely both fans would malfunction simultaneously. This is a Kenmore Elite, but is rally an LG. Not impressed with LG... I have an old General Electric refrigerator that is probably 50 years old, has never been serviced and still runs fine. Quality in modern appliances is no longer a feature.
So I have the same frig, going to try all of these steps. My refrigerator cools “some”. Gets to 45 in the refrigerator and 33 in the freezer. Any suggestions? Thanks for the video. Happy Palm Sunday.
HI, i HAVE PROBLEM WITH 7TIME BLINK I REPLACE NEW IPM BUT THERE IS NOT OUTPUT VOLTAGE AT COMPRESSOR TERMINAL WHAT TO DO I HAVE PCB WITH NO EBR754862 PLEASE GIVE SOLUTION
GREAT! Step by step, and no talking too much. Straight to the point!!!
th-cam.com/video/3q1OzLOC8j8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=39Yp1A0286aH-z5D
Great info thank you so much. My LG has same problem 22 error but relay is fine. Now I hope to rediagnose thanks to you guys and fix this $3,000 discontinued unit.
Awesome video! Definitely answered some of my questions! I learned more from this video here, than from any LG instruction manual or support web page! Thank you for your quick, clear explanation! You get right to the point, not wasting time on basic, common knowledge! Very helpful! Thanks again!
th-cam.com/video/3q1OzLOC8j8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=39Yp1A0286aH-z5D
Thanks for your efforts, i'm old school since 1994 I really hate what their doing with pcb controls keep it simple is the best, all my customers complain "its only 2 years old and it not working" LOL I tell them your relying on 3 thousand components just to keep your food cold, in the long run it's worst for the environment than the old thermostat controls because energy used for early recycling and remanufacturing.
th-cam.com/video/3q1OzLOC8j8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=39Yp1A0286aH-z5D
LG JUST NEEDS TO GIVE EVERY PURCHASER A NEW REFRIGERATOR WITH A TWENTY YEAR WARRANTY FREE OF CHARGE
yep cost me $200 in food, and I tried replacing a $25 part, no dice, now will have to pay $660 for a tech, but the fridge is 8 years old
@@blockaderunnermine is only one year & 10 months old & the condenser went out … told me it would be over $1,500.00 to repair!!!
@@mariaparker1297mine is 3 years old and almost 2 months. My extended warranty with Lowe’s expired August 10th and my compressor doesn’t turn on at all 😞
LG made trashes on the planet, shame on Korean
th-cam.com/video/3q1OzLOC8j8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=39Yp1A0286aH-z5D
What you are calling a start relay on your linier compressor, looks like
a " Klixon " thermal protector. Placed in the terminal box to measure compressor temperature, and disrupt the
power to the compressor in an over temperature compressor.
Your testing of the compressor winding is accomplished with the " Ohmmeter " function of your DVOM or VOM,
depending upon what instrument you are using.
Tim
First of all, excellent video. You went through everything in 10 mins that ive spent hours looking for on youtube. My LG runs the cooling fans inside the fridge/freezer ONLY in test mode. I cant get them to run otherwise, even bypassing the door switch. No lights flashing on the board. Is it my PCB board thats bad? Idk what else it could be.
th-cam.com/video/3q1OzLOC8j8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=39Yp1A0286aH-z5D
This is a great video, I’ve replaced the board and done so much testing on mine. Was about to trash my fridge until I found this video. I’m so glad I found this it has so much helpful information 💖
@CS-gd9nq so did you fix it with the board? I just checked mine and my compressor is not grounded, but I'm getting a reading of 11.5 instead of the 7.5 he states...not sure what that means. I also don't have the green LED light on the board with the same error 22 22 code, so I'm assuming that means a bad board too.
I did fix the board I had an F-1 code and the fans were still working. Replaced the board from eBay for cheap cleared the code but the fridge still isn’t cooling and all the fans are working. The coils inside the freezer aren’t cooling. I’m gonna test out the “relay” as he is calling it in this video. I had an appliance company tell me I needed to replace the condenser. If it’s just a relay then it looks like it could be an easier fix..
@@CS-gd9nq mine has no codes and the evaporator coils in the back of the freezer compartment only have frost on the pipe above the coils which is telling me probably low on freon or bad seal in compressor given the readings aforementioned...
Soo if you take a black light the filters from what I learned come loaded with a material that will light up bright neon yellowish if you have a freon leak. If you have ac lines you can connect them pretty easy and if they hold pressure then you aren’t losing pressure.. if the problem still consists then you need a new compressor.
Freon leaks are pretty easy to fix. I found a few videos on TH-cam that were really helpful but if part of your coils are freezing that sounds like a circulatory issue have you checked your fans??
Our 2013 LG LFX33975 french-door refrigerator was purchased 1/2014 and cooling has always been warmer than whatever it's set for in both the fridge and freezer.
I opted for the 3 year LG Premium Care extended warranty for a little over $300 and after that LG only offered a 2 year plan and the price increased to about $500, but we bought it anyway. Good thing too since shortly after re-enrolling, everything in the freezer suddenly melted in April 2017. After almost 2 weeks, a tech finally arrived and said it needed a compressor, a drier, and condenser. He ordered the parts and left. The parts arrived and a week later a different tech arrived and said it only needed a circuit board so he took the parts with him.
I don’t recall if we had to wait for the board, but I think he had one. After that, the fridge was the coldest it had ever been at 38 degrees.
Then in August 2018 it wouldn’t get any colder than 50 degrees so after another 2 weeks a tech came out and said something about a large plastic center section being updated so again the part was ordered and eventually installed. That lowered the temp to 40 which is what it’s been since the day I plugged it in except for the time mentioned above where it hit 38.
Anyway, one day everything melted in the freezer again and the fridge seemed stuck at 50 so I again called for service but by the time a tech came out, the fridge seemed to be back to normal so the tech didn’t find a problem.
I had a repeat of that in June 2019 but this time I was told I’d have to pay for the service call if no problem was found. Like the other time, the fridge normalized by the time they called in mid-July to schedule the service call so I just cancelled. Since the extended warranty seemed to have been a waste of money, and the coverage offered was reduced to yearly while increasing the price, I let the coverage go.
Well it’s August 2022 and for the past few weeks we’ve been noticing the milk has been starting to go bad way before the expiration dates, the assumption being the store may not have been refrigerating ‘em promptly after arrival, but then a few days later we noticed water on the floor.
The fridge had a 50 degree temp and the freezer was about 20 degrees. A Google search said it had a blocked drain line so I took the large plastic center section out and I didn’t see any ice but the tray was full of very cold water. I left the fridge unplugged for a day but the drain was still plugged so I tried poking some thin plastic tubing from an air shock into the tube but kept hitting an obstruction so I tried going upward as well from the back of the fridge, same obstruction. While contemplating my next move, I found the water had drained and the plastic tubing no longer found any obstructions.
After a day of normalizing the fridge, the lowest it would go is 46 degrees and 11 for the freezer so I looked at the board, nothing on the LED. I pressed the test button once and heard a single beep 3x. Both the upper and lower fans in that large plastic panel in the fridge started up and the front display was fully lighted. The compressor and the fan next to it were running as well but the test cycle lasted about 5 minutes before shutting everything off except the interior lights and the front panel resumed normal function like when a door is closed. At that point the fridge was 50 degrees and the freezer was 29 degrees. A few minutes later, the compressor started again. At that point the compressor felt hotter than usual. I should say the compressor is also quieter than it was when new.
I pressed the test button 2x, heard a double beep 3x, the front displayed 22 and 22, and everything started running again. Again everything shut down after about 5 minutes and the display returned to normal. Almost another 5 minutes passed and then I could hear the two fans in the fridge start, a minute or two later the fan next to the compressor started and finally the compressor again.
Pressing the test button 3x didn’t reset the fridge as expected but just shut down all the moving components and the front displayed 33 and 33. After 5 minutes I heard a click but everything remained dead silent. Another 5 minutes passed before the fans inside started and then another 5 minutes passed before the compressor started again. So the total time to resume was 15 minutes after the test button was pressed 3x. I’m guessing that last test activated the thaw cycle because after the 10 minute mark where the fans inside started, I saw the puddle under the drain tube move and I heard erratic type sounds like water sizzling in a hot pan.
I noticed the fridge said it had “Smart Diagnosis” so I found the procedure in the manual and called LG. I had to ask for it and was then transferred to a tech that didn’t speak English very well. I was instructed to lock the panel and press some buttons while holding the phone up to the speaker in the top right hinge until the series of squeals stopped and then the guy asked for the temps before concluding it needed a compressor.
Since the compressor has 2 years left on the 10 year warranty, he texted a couple places to call but labor would be on me. The first place was the place that has been here many times but they said they no longer service LG. The next place said $800 if the compressor was all that was needed. I called LG again for more options and they texted 3 more. The first said $500-700 but they were 60 miles away and didn’t service my area. The next one was just a guy's name and when called, it said “call rejected.” The last one was 250 miles away so obviously that would be a waste of time.
It’s a shame this model wasn't included in the class action lawsuit that was settled. The date of manufacturer and history of problems matched perfectly.
I looked up how to replace a compressor and honestly it doesn’t look that bad since I’ve been doing A/C work on vehicles for over 40 years and it’s only R-134a so I have a vacuum pump to evacuate and a manifold set to charge it but then I read about the board will need updating so I guess that’s out. I’m beginning to think the problem may not even be a compressor issue so I thought I’d seek opinions before having to go into debt for another refrigerator.
Consumer Reports says for 34” and wider, the top 4 models are LG, for 31-33 inch, the top 2 are LG, and for 30 inch and narrower, the top 2 are again LG. Maybe the problems were fixed but I guess time will tell. ($4500 for #1) Samsung rated poorly with 45 fridges rated better, mostly LG, but Samsung has failed me on all my other appliances, which seems to align with CR, so I’d rather find the problem with this LFX33975 if possible. Any thoughts?
Edit: I installed a $5 (+$2.99 for same day delivery) BPV31 piercing valve on the low side to check the pressure but never realized how terrible my R134a manifold gauges are when reading low PSI. I even took a picture so I could enlarge it but it didn’t help. All I know is when running, the needle barely moved from 0 and about hit a high of 28 PSI after sitting off for a while.
I gambled with an evacuation, put a vacuum on it for an hour and then let it sit for another hour with the vacuum off. The vacuum maintained so I slowly allowed some R134a back in while still unplugged and at some point I let the compressor slowly take it in while frequently noting the PSI pressure. The moment the high side started feeling warm, I unplugged it to let the system equalize. The final recharge ended up being a little less than 40 PSI and temps in the fridge went from 50F to 39F, and the freezer went from 31F to 3F so I guess that’s progress for not knowing what I’m doing. That’s the coldest the freezer has ever been and the fridge part is about the same or lower than we’ve experienced since we bought this new in 2014.
But I don’t trust it so we bought another French door refrigerator from Best Buy on the zero-interest installment plan because they service what they sell. I chose a model from the small offering on the LG site hoping for a current model with all the problems corrected as Consumer Reports and many sites contend. Plus LG has a sale of $700 off and BB has it for a penny cheaper. Of course I had to add the $599.99 5 year standard Geek Squad protection for peace of mind. Nothing fancy like the window in the door for a grand more model. The irony is this fridge was one of several models offering a BB promotion of a free LG 6.9 Cu Ft top-freezer refrigerator with a value of $714.99 (yeah right) But at least we’d have something to put the food in while waiting for service if this new LG breaks again.
Edit again: Cancelled the new fridge since the recharge brought it back to the 38F and 6F it was when new in 2014.
Sounds like you have a small leak in the evaporator, the best way to check is the frost pattern, if you pull the cover in the freezer and only a few on the loops are frosted at the top then it’s either low on refrigerant charge or the compressor is inefficient…. It’s not exactly easy to measure the temperatures, you want the probe very near the thermistor where the machine is measuring it and defrost cycles and opening and closing the doors will affect is greatly as well as exactly how food is loaded, airflow can cause problems with temperatures being off, when the temperature sensor in the fridge is satisfied at the set point it will shut off that doesn’t necessarily mean the temperature will be the same everywhere… I use a thermal camera to verify all the cold and hotspots as a fast check, without that tool you’ll have to wrap a thermocouple with aluminum foil and tape it within an inch or so of the machines sensors and do an average of the numbers to get an accurate temperature measurement… If that’s ok then your problem is airflow, either food is blocking the return path or the fan might be weak, it’s also possible to have ice on the evaporator block airflow. That can also be caused by low refrigerant charge or lack of airflow or a leaking door seal that’s allowing humidity to freeze that’s more than the defrost heater can manage….
@@robertw1871 Thanks for the input! I believe you’re spot on.
I think our problem that prompted the post originated because our 13 year old left the freezer drawer slightly ajar for several hours while he was gaming and couldn’t hear the beeping so I suppose the humidity overload was enough to cause issues but after unclogging the drain, and waiting 24 hours to normalize, the R temp was stuck at a low of 50F and the F temp hit a low of 20F.
I’ve read about something in the system that either because of age or an unforeseen chemical reaction, becomes caustic to the components. It did hold a vacuum and after I charged it with about 8-10 oz of a small 12 oz can of R134a, I used a vintage Micro-Tect (209901) electronic leak detector (sniffer) over everything and couldn’t find a leak anywhere. I’m shocked the effort actually worked after the official LG factory rep, told me in broken English that it needed a new compressor. I’m wondering if all those other “defective” refrigerators could’ve been saved by merely installing fresh R134a.
For years we’ve been using a pyrex refrigerator thermometer and a Taylor Lithium refrigerator thermometer but opening the door to read them wasn’t ideal so we recently settled on an Acu-rite (00515M) ($35 Amazon) wireless refrigerator thermometer that has two sensors and a programmable alarm that can be set to trigger when a temperature is out of range for longer than five minutes. We don’t have to open a door to read it and along with the current temp, it displays the high and low temps in the past 24 hours.
The freezer is currently 8F but in the past 24 hit a low of 3F and a high of 16F, the fridge is 38.5F and in the past 24 hit a low of 36 and a high of 41.
Perhaps the LG is running on borrowed time but so far, so good. Thanks again.
@@annettesurfer Can’t say I’ve encountered aging components causing an issue, for the most part they are either functioning or not, functioning out of calibration isn’t something that’s common with thermistors and digital electronics. The vast majority of compressor failures are not able to build any pressure at all, the system stay’s equalized, so no, recharging them would not bring them back… If it’s not maintaining temperature then it’s definitely struggling, I’d think it was either low on charge again, or has build up some non-condensables (air) in the system by pulling it it under vacuum from the low side in the evaporator, it’s either that or the compressor has indeed become inefficient… Unfortunately…. Hope it says working for you, have a good weekend…
y u buy a another lg? cant get ge whirlpool? other brand?
y not get a old conventional one?
new r junk
Hi again, I forgot to add the the board part number is also on a white sticker on one of the transistors/diodes (or whatever they are called) to the right and a little up from the printed label on the board. Just above all of those silver metal cards/bars sticking out. Thanks again!!
Hi, Michael, I have LG LMX2596ST refrigerator which I bought 9-10 years ago. It does not cool on both compartments, so I checked the condenser which is good, I changed the evaporator coil assembly (New); I changed the
LG 6500JB2002X Temperature Sensor, Single Unit; I also changed the thermistor assembly, but it still is not working. what do you thing I should do next? I bought refrigerant to put into it but I am a bit hesitant so would want to explore other checking points.
This is a great video. I have the exact same fridge from 2013, same model compressor and I get the 22 22 like you do with no LED blinks on the PCB. LG was quick to direct me to warranty repair, sent me 5 local contacts who want $1,000 or more to come and fix it while the "inverter compressor" which LG and Samsung proudly display on the sales floor as 10 year warranty, the best in the business but with no teeth. Like you I found out that the 22 22 doesn't really mean a bad thermistor assembly (next to the compressor) because I replaced it and same 22 22. By the way I am told this compressor has no relay in this kit as that function is controlled by the PCB. I also have a reading of roughly 9 ohms across two pins and nothing on the other two. The compressor does fire up but rarely gets hot to the touch which I am told is normal as well. Watching your video, I am now inclined to think that LG was too quick to throw this in the bad compressor bin (I should have known as the tech support rep told me it costs about $60 for someone to fix, clearly had no clue). My issue is that I get air in the fridge compartment from a side left vent (closest to the left door) but nothing from the back vent. The vent in the freezer works but blows warm air. What I am trying to figure out is if it's the fan (in the fridge compartment) or the PCB board or a bad compressor or lack of freon (which means there's a leak in the system). I imagine if the PCB board is bad, would it result in one of the fans not working? Is that the core issue? How did you know you had a bad PCB? Sorry, many questions and I hope you are able to help.
Dear two wheeling, my broken refrigerator scenario is very similar to yours. Mine is 2012, with almost the same issues (left upper vent in fridge blows, nothing from back vent, warm air in freezer) I am/was holding off on the compressor replacement but instead ordered a refurb PCB board. After swapping out the PCB boards, I get same results, 22 22 error code, only warm air. I found out that no diagnostics light flashes means the board thinks all is working well. I was going to rewatch video about the start relay / thermistor when I read your post. How do you get to back upper fan? Do we both have bad evaporator coils? I have as many questions as you do...
I had a burnt capacitor on the circuitboard it was visible I inspected it with a flashlight and found burn marks really bad ones
@@KooperSalmo Can you direct us to which capacitor on your board blew? I don't get any flashing lights either on the LED. Do you think it could be the board and not the compressor? In your case, you didn't need a new compressor?
I literally have the same symptoms as you. I get 6 flashes on the PCB. Compressor runs. Gets little n slightly louder about 10-15 min later then shuts off and retries in 6 min. Runs runs then repeats again. Fridge is warm.
@@michaeldesimone2011 Hi Michael, my fridge is acting 100% the same. What was the solution for you ?
I'm glad I found your video. Thank you.
I’m glad you mentioned your PCB board led light was not flashing a code. Mine isn’t either. So bad board. I hope.
Any luck?
@@oleg916 LG came out, they replaced the evaporator coil, condenser coil, and the compressor. Board was fine I guess. Fridge is working finally. Thanks for the help. Kinda.
Your video is GOLD. Searching high and low on how to test the compressor. LG is power cycling with a 6 LED blinking code and freezer and fridge are warm. Linear compressor that may not be working as advertised ? Will run and grab my Fluke meter from the office and will report back. Many many thanks for this spot on video.
Did you ever figure this out, I’m having the same issue.
@@soccer2live Hi. With some courage, I reached out to LG. If you google, there are class action law suits pending against LG for their compressors. After some stern but diplomatic chats on the phone, they extended a 'fixed rate' service for the unit - whatever it may take to resolve a single fault (important to note this). Told them that the fridge would no longer remain cold. The tech came onsite and was excellent from London, Ontario. He noted this to be a common issue and it was the batch of compressors that they purchased. Personally, I hunted for a unit that was made in South Korea rather than Mexico but still got stung by the faulty compressor. The tech replaced the compressor and this was a few years ago and crossing my fingers, still ice cold. The tech noted that if the plumbing is at fault, toss the fridge. Personally I am sold on LG again since they did fix the fault and I believe I paid around $350 for the repair. Be 100% clear on the fault(s) because they log them into their database. If you deviate the fault afterwards, they will demand a new service call and fee. The tech also updated the firmware on the controller board so best if you follow the LG official tech. I am in Canada and can share the details of our tech who performed the service. Highly recommend this outsourced company but is only practical if LG is paying for the compressor. That is, $350 will not cover the expense of the new compressor + installation fee. If LG still offers this fixed fee service call, suggest that you consider it. The company who serviced our LG from London, Ontario was appliancesrepairservice.ca/ - Kevin Parmar was the tech and is extremely knowledgeable. Highly recommended. He mentioned that the replacement compressors from LG are solid. Not sure how old your unit is but for us, ours died in about 5 years but going from memory here.
@@soccer2live Posted a very detailed reply but guess it may have gotten censored?
Hello. Would you share your case? I have the same situation and I’d like to make sure it’s the compressor before I spend the money. Could it be the capacitor? Thank you
@@JoseDiaz-yo6qj Hi. How old is your fridge? I recall following the above video which is excellent but could not resolve the fault. Raised a stink with LG and how our fridge did not cool for the 10 years they claim on the compressor. You can attempt to test with a new run capacitor which DID fix our outside AC unit's fault - just order one through Amazon to test and return if not required. For our fridge, LG offered a single fixed fee repair service to resolve our fault. We did contact local repair firms and each was more expensive than using this LG offer which would be with a new compressor + onsite installation. If the fault is in the plumbing - the fridge is garbage - the onsite tech noted this comment. The LG authorized tech also stated they repair many brands (out of London, Ontario) and that the new LG compressors are solid. Ours is still running strong (was installed at start of covid time so a few years now). The root cause was that LG used some outside firm for the compressors and they did not live up to the quality of 10 year use. Important to note that only the authorized tech has access to the firmware updates which were installed onto our fridge after the new compressor was installed. IMHO, we are a LG family again. Personally bought our fridge after years of research and used an old unit till we were ready. Our fridge is made in South Korea (HQ) rather than Mexico because the quality was not yet known about their factory in Mexico. There are class action lawsuits in motion against LG for their faulty compressors but no idea if and when that will be resolved and with which amounts. Highly recommend to consider the fixed fee service if the unit is out of warranty but be stern about the warranty of the repair which I believe was another year after installation of the new compressor. Hope this helps.
excellent and succinct video.explanations were clear and instructional.Please keep up the good work.
This video here. Awesome job at getting the info across. These are what instructional videos should be like. Quick and reasons why. Much appreciated.
th-cam.com/video/3q1OzLOC8j8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=39Yp1A0286aH-z5D
Best video for real explanations.
Never again LG or Samsung fridge! My LG compressor broke multiple times.
Thank you! I just bought a new compressor because it wasn’t reading like the old style, and the new one was reading the same as the one that I thought was broken!
Very good video with very good explanation.
Dude, good job on the video! I enjoyed it, you gave me the rundown on everything! You got a chuckle out of me too, “ You’ll be in heaven…” lol. Good job man
Glad you enjoyed it!
What issues were you experiencing with the fridge? How did you verify that the PCB board is bad rather than the relay? My fridge is cooling poorly and get the 22 code as well. My board doesn't seem to have a LED light. When I press the test button, all fans work and compressor turns on. Freon level is good. I checked resistance on thermistor and it seems to be good as well.
Great vid mate! Time to troubleshoot mine now 😩
th-cam.com/video/3q1OzLOC8j8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=39Yp1A0286aH-z5D
Thank you for the tutorial to fix the refrigerator, I have the same model and brand and still trying to fix it because the freezer does not seem to work at all. I'll try to follow your instructions and hopefully it will fix it. 😄😄😄
th-cam.com/video/3q1OzLOC8j8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=39Yp1A0286aH-z5D
I bought an LG bottom/top fridge with the linear compressor back in Aug 2020. It just failed a couple days ago (Jan 2023). Compressor failure. Incredible that it only lasted less than 3 years. Thankfully it will be covered under factory warranty. Waiting on the LG man to come out in a few days.
LG man replaced the compressor, condenser, and dryer. Back up and running. But now I'm worried for how long.
In Addition! Most linear compressors on LG Frech Door and two doors have 10 years Manufacturer Warranty! no labor tech charges on the first 5 Years. So Call LG if your compressor is the problem ;o)
If made by LG within last 13 years. Since 2010 when Lg decide to make their own compress. And it is not cooling. It’s a compressor. The compress uses a woofer type compressor.
Parabéns pelo excelente conteúdo. Muito boa seu jeito de fazer conserto desses equipamentos 👏🏽👏🏽
Fridgerator ???? ha ha Love it ! hmmm i am from MD and my family says Fridgerator. I hear people in Ohio say Fridgerator too. Maybe Pennsylvania too. Gotta love the Northern accents . Does anyone here eat Dippy eggs ? By the way I Bought a house with a 2 year old LG , French Doors , and it stopped cooling , i heard about the LG Nightmares and deemed it was not worth it losing food again . I purchased a GE and it arrives tomorrow . Wish me luck. Appliances these days suck ! ooh but they are so energy efficient ! blah ..Aite den . peace .
My Kemore E (LG) PCB board doesn't have an LED light. When doing the 2nd test, it shows error 22, but my compressor and fans are running fine. How do I check without LED blink?
I think it was appliance guru who said on linear all the resistances on the coils should be the same. Are certain fridges different?
Great video. Thank you
At 0:34 check ohms.
Good job
I have a new LTCS20020S 20.2 top freezer. Here's what I know:
1. My first one had a weak/faulty compressor from the factory. Freezer was fridge temp, fridge was room temperature. That went back thanks to store and not manufacturer policy.
2. Second fridge had an evaporator fan that died almost immediately. There's a 3 pin (older) and 4 pin (newer) fan. In the 20020S the service manual calls for the 3 pin fan and it will not fit in a 4 pin application. The 4 pin fan's yellow wire is not doing anything in the quite thankfully "dumb" refrigerator, and the OEM replacement part is more robust than the OEM factory part. My fridge went from frozen coils in a cold freezer and warm fridge to actually functional.
I did find and buy the correct 4 pin fan which is also curiously larger and a different case shape than the original despite the same OEM part #. It was less than $40. I'll keep my "donut spare" fan that works but is missing a 4th (yellow) wire [solder and heat shrink new fan to old plug, yellow not connected] for a rainy day, but let my frustration be your guide. If you couldn't run fast enough to avoid being given an LG refrigerator or you bought one intentionally because their other products aren't 100% crap (especially their portable air conditioners) return it. Failing that, if the freezer and fridge are both warm and plugged in, return it by any means necessary if possible. If the freezer is really cold and ice is accumulated, clean your condenser coils at bottom if dirty and check that your evaporator fan and condenser fan both run when the compressor is on. No experience w/ the condenser fan, but the evaporator fan is replaceable with a Phillips screwdriver, small zip tie, and a 10" piece of duct or foil tape. If your refrigerator doesn't blow air, it will most definitely suck.
th-cam.com/video/3q1OzLOC8j8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=39Yp1A0286aH-z5D
Can you just buy the little black part of that relay instead of buying all the plugs and wire. Make sense what I am asking?
Joe Abb
3 hours ago
Hi, Michael, I have LG LMX2596ST refrigerator which I bought 9-10 years ago. It does not cool on both compartments, so I checked the condenser which is good, I changed the evaporator coil assembly (New); I changed the
LG 6500JB2002X Temperature Sensor, Single Unit; I also changed the thermistor assembly, but it still is not working. what do you think I should do next? I bought refrigerant to put into it but I am a bit hesitant, so would want to explore other checking points.
Good stuff, I hear my compressor running, but its not cooling. I don't hear the fans running but I did see the middle inside the fridge run when I pulled back the panel and locked the doors it started running. Also the fan in the back of the Fridge near the Compressor is also running.
I wish mine was the Relay, easy enough to change, I will be checking the Board and do that test and if my LED doesn't light it, then it might be the board.
You are saying if my compressor is grounded its not worth fixing? My Fridge is only 3 1/2 years old. Im sure a compressor would be cheaper than paying 4k again?
Thanks again for sharing ;O)
Hi, I noticed you have multiple videos but it looks like the videos are covering the same subjects. Either way, all you videos are very good and have been most helpful to me and my similar situation. I believe I have a LG Refrigerator very similar to yours with a very similar problem. I hear the relay click when I put the plug back in, but I also have no lights on PCB. Your videos are THAT much more valuable to me as my quasi-local LG repair wants to come out and replace my compressor (still under warranty) and gouge me for $500.
I believe if you’re coming pressure is under five years old you can get them to pay for labor but you need to call algae customer service direct
I replaced my control board in my lfx28968st lg fridge and still have code 22.................
Linear compressor 8.0-9.5 and other side OL
Does running diagnostics like this void the factory warranty since you are removing the back panels?
Good instructions but what about the capacitor on the PCB board
Hi again, so I have the LG LFX28978sw/02. Everything I checked seemed to work, the LED light did not work when I walked through the test button. I disconnected the con21 plug and tested the board and it only got to 150 volts not the 200 the test required. Anyway my question is, is there two evaporator fans or actually three, in the LG. I know there is one by the compressor and one in the back of the freezer and they both work, but is there one inside the back of the refrigerator as well? Thanks, guy
my fans are Not working
Great video!
My compressor and thermal overload went bad as will with really high resistance values. I have the FLB075LANA but have read the new updated replacement part is FLS075LANA part number TCA38151706. Should the circuit board or software be updated replaced as well if I purchase this new compressor?
Lordy exactly like my LG. And I bought it around 2012 or 13. And I thought it was the compressor. I’m not sure. I kept her it’s never been clean in the back. Oh boy.
A BLDG compressor will not run if the freon is low. It will only rotate a few times. Service the freon and it'll run.
Compressor runs for a few minutes and clicks off. Red light blinks 6 times... not cooling. I have a LFXS29766S showing code 22... thoughts?
Thanks dude!
Thank you! My very basic LFC24786ST is not cooling, all works in test mode, no led error codes IDEAS please? Thanks
My Maytag refrigerator compressor or not coming on but fridge is lit up can you help
Fan nor compressor is running
thank you for the video, my interior fans are not blowing in the freezer or fridge, compressor is warm and softly vibrating, but entire unit not cooling, is it my compressor in your opinion? thank you for your help
I'm having the same problem. Did you ever get an answer?
I have a LG with linear compressor. Runs and sounds normal, temperatures will intermittently rise and I get 6 flashes on the LED on the PCB. All fans operate normally, and the coils have all been cleaned. I’m stumped, any ideas?
I have this same issue. Did you figure out what’s wrong with yours ?
May I ask if Linear Comp measured about 11 Ohm is within range or bad Thank
Hi my fridge is not cooling when open back side compressor fan is working, and compressor not working. Like every 5 mint compressor try open start it self but couldn't can you help me
On our LG we here a humming sound while the frig is running. What would the problem be??? Thank you. Compressor has already been replaced.
what's tricky with these new LG linear compressors is they seem too be running even after they have gone bad. so the fridge can be running with the fans and compressor but nothing cooling. these LG linear compressors are trash too, only having a life span of 5-6 years
I have a Liner compressor, I checked everything, I changed the computer panel,and my three fans work. So it runs but it doesn’t cool. So I guess it could be the relay switch or maybe low on Freon, I really don’t want to buy a new one. Do have any suggestions?
I have no cooling, everythings kicking on, finally it started flashing 6... Great so either bad capacitor, bad PCB, or couldn't read last part...
any suggestions?
So my led don't blink at allwhen testing it ,so if I understood your info( WHICH IS GREATLY APRICIATE ) I NEED TO REPLACE DE BORD ,ANY INSTUCCIONS ON THAT TOPIC ,. PLEASE???
Thank YOU!!
Great video! I have a Kitchenaid model KFIS29PBMS00 with dual evaporators. I have ruled out door seals, compressor, condenser fan, condenser coils, evaporator fans, and thermisters. All diagnostics pass. Fridge is at 45 degrees and freezer at 27 degrees for several months. I am down to either the 3-way valve or main board. How can I test my 3-way valve and/or main board? Thanks.
I have an LG made about 2012 it makes a constant clicking noise on the electrical panel. I looke for the relay but its just got a capacitor attacked to the left side of the compressor. The fridge gets power just wont get cold. Idk what i can do.
Hi I have a Kenmore Elite refrigerator with LG Liner compressor. It stopped cooling, then I started adding more refrigerant it would cool to 32 degrees on the freezer side but won't go below that. No lights on the PCB no error codes, running amps 1.6 Amps. Suction side of the compressor cold to the touch and output side warm/hot. Compressors bottom hot to the touch. All fans work ok. Takes more freon then needed to cool to 32F. What could be the problem??
I'm down right now trying to check the condenser, is there some secret to taking the cover off the side that holds the relay?
No just Phillip screws
I have the same problem with my LG bought in 2011. I replaced relay, checked the compressor and both are working. Error code is still 22. Can't see anything burnt on PCB. LED is not flashing. Should I replace PCB?
What did you end up doing, bud?
I'd ike to know too..
So is it safe to assume that if everything appears to be working, fans, compressor, thermostats and the led is not blinking at all that the board is bad? I’ve tested everything I could with a multimeter and everything appears to have passed but the led never flashes, and the fridge isn’t cooling.
I've an GBB72NSEFN not cooling fan works compressor humming test button all ok. Now meseared the input current only 0,16 amps compressor getting a little hot after some time then measured the voltage to the compressor only 55V and the economic 65V so conclusion bad pcb board while visual looking good. Any suggestions?
I have a linear compressor. It used to make knocking noises in the past, but they would go away, RIght now, it's vibrating like the fridge is OK, but both internal fans not running. Sounds like control board?
No error codes. Diagnostic LED not flashing. Compressor running, but coils are warm. Now know there's only one fan. In the two test modes, I get air flow thru the top in #1, and only the bottom in #2. So damper works. Must be no freon or a wheezy compressor. Bummer,
got a new updated compressor for mine, thermistor harness as well along with the PCB reprogram kit. the terminals on the new compress are backwards of the other, harness plug doesnt fit how do you know which goes to black and red
nevermind, i see the website i got it from says tilt connector 45 degrees counter clock wise
My LG pops the breaker, the moment I try to plug it in, even with the doors open. Thoughts on the cause?
Mine did they also
Good evening, I just purchased this PCB board and installed it in my LG refrigerator model # lmxs28626d and it still shoots that same 22 code. That code says it’s the start relay for the compressor I tested the relay and I have continuity and test good. I changed the temp sensor in the freezer and I tested the old sensor out of the freezer and fridge both indicate around 6.8 ohms and slowly increases when put in ice water. I tested the 3 poles on the linear compressor 7.8 to 9.0 ohms out of two poles and nothing out of the others when switched around so that indicates a good compressor. My problem is that the freezer will cool the water down to 40 degrees and the fridge 46 degrees I open the door and I don’t feel the fans in the freezer blowing When I put the fridge in test mode everything turns on all fans turn on and the the blend doors open. The compressor changes tone and is blowing cold but as soon as I take it out of test mode inside fans turn off except for the small fan behind the filter the compressor continues to run but changes tone slightly. I’m at a loss to why everything works in test mode but not out
Fans only work when doors are closed
LG with Linear compressor with inverter on the left is not cooling. Compressor starts for a few minutes then stops. When compressor is off, refrigerant PSIG at around 85. PSIG only drops to around 74 during those few minutes compressor is on. I couldn't get a solid number on the comp winding (probably 7/8 ohms not sure), because it was jumping up/down all over meter's display. Ground was ok.
What is the reason only 10 PSIG dropped during several minutes compressor is on? Can linear compressor run without changing PSIG? Is compressor bad? Is the inverter bad. Is the ECB is bad?
With the "old" & "inverter" comp style, refrigerant will be dropping non-stop while compressor is on until it equalized (let's say 0/+2 PSIG) but with this, linear comp, I just don't know what is at fault. Any idea?
What's the chances I have the exact same error code 22/22 in the exact same issue no LED lights also I tested voltage after removing, com one only 117 volts ac it has to be the board
Have you ever fixed this fridge? I have an exact same issue. Mine is 9 year old LG fridge. Checked everything and has code22 but no clicking noise from the relay and compressor is running. Is it time to shop new one?
Yes I fixed it
And yet he doesn't tell you exactly how he fixed ...
I think I have the same problem that yours has. The front showed the same numbers, 22 22, but the light doesn’t flash. Does that mean I need a new board?
hi really need help her why is my frigdenot blinking evrtime i press tha small button in pcb board amd if i turn it on only all fans are working inside and out.what coud be the possible prob for this.thanks for reading
Wait so what if I get 3 blinks 🤷🏼♂️
Oh it a LG, French doors.
I wonder if you answer your questions, I have a lg and the only thiung that works is the fan by the compressor. no lights no compressor no other fans NOTHING so do you have an opinion?
It sounds like the motherboard but it’s very hard if I can’t use my equipment to test certain things
If the compressor is vibrating is that a sign that the compressor and the relay are ok?
Most likely
I did all the test. Compressor look good but still not cooling.
My LG is not cooling. The fans are blowing, the condenser is humming, I felt airflow in the fridge in both test modes. The LED on the board does not flash. In the video you said your board is bad because the LED doesn’t flash. Does the light not flashing mean the board is bad or that everything the board checks is fine?
Having this same issue. Did you ever figure out the issue?
@@cassandrakwielford2999 hi Cassandra, hopefully it goes better for you! LG sent a repairman (after 3 weeks) who replaced the compressor. 1 week later it stopped cooling again. 3 weeks later again the same repairman replaced the condenser. 1 week later it stopped working again. 3 weeks later again another repairman came out and said he’d have to replace the compressor and condenser and flush the lines. I escalated the issue to the president of US LG offices who gave me a depreciated credit for my fridge because it was 3 weeks past the covered warranty! Hopefully it goes better for you! We spent the whole summer living out of a camping cooler!
@@mnjeurope wow thanks for responding!! We have someone coming already today from LG. Our fridge & freezer both aren’t cooling. Condenser humming, fan next to it works. When in the test modes both freezer and fridge blow air but they don’t otherwise. Our led light also doesn’t work. It’s a 6 year old fridge so I think only the condenser is under warranty but still have to pay labor fees. We’ll see what he does when he gets here today. I’m picking up a mini fridge from target today to live out of 😂. So did you get a new fridge then?!
@@cassandrakwielford2999 the ice maker not working was the tell tale sign the fridge wasn’t cooling anymore. The new compressor cooled the fridge for a week, but then it stopped working a week later. Hang onto the mini fridge! We replaced all our food a day or two later only to have it spoil again the next week. There is no getting the smell of thawed crab legs out of the “freezer”! The honeymoon of a “working” fridge was short lived for us! Hopefully yours keeps going!
@@cassandrakwielford2999 what was your result ?
I just bought another fridge from Home Depot ... a GE French Door fridge supposedly MSRP over $2000 but oooh ! onsale ! I eneded up paying $1400 with a HD credit card Promo code , thats with delivery and installation .. i will follow up here and let you know how it goes .
What if the sum of my run pin to common pin and my start pin to common pin is greater then the sum of my start to run?
We tested our compressor, same model as yours, and the repair guy said that it was busted. At first he said we needed more Freon, which we asked him to add more to it. Then when he hooked up the Freon meter, it said the Freon was 54 F degrees inside. He said, that's bad, it should be cold. So then he said, that the compressor is bad because the freezer temp is 54 F. Is that true? I feel like we have been bamboozled. Is there a another way that we can check to confirm the compressor is good or bad?
That sucks
People are so dishonest
Might be a clogged capillary tube or liquid line drier. I'm having this issue right now. Not necessarily the techs fault. This is a commonly misdiagnosed problem and it has been in refrigerators for 30 years.
where are you from? why do you keep telling the OLP is a relay?
hello. 22 is the test for to put it in defrost mode for few minutes.
my lg fridge trips my ciruit breaker within 10 secs plugged in why help me
hello i replace 3 times compressor and they didnt pump properly any idea whar is the problem( i already update the software)
mine is flashing 3 times...says it could be the board, compressor or ground short...
I am having the same problem i replaced my start relay it it didn't fix the 22 error. So i replaced the PCB board and the 22 error is still present and the fridge is still not cooling... what else could it be?
Someone said 22 is not an error code - it is just showing which test the button on the circuit board has been activated.
When I do test #2 I get 22 22 on the front panel. When I hit test #3 I get 33 33 on the front panel.
It's just telling you which diagnostic mode you are in
Hi bro that relay is not a relay it's called an overload
Hello. I have a Kenmore Elite (LG) refrigerator. Test Mode 2 shows a code 22 on the front upper displays. No error codes from the LED on the PCB board. The fuse is fine. All fans are functioning correctly. Checked the pins on the compressor as you showed in the video. Nothing, nothing, and 9.5-10.5. Does the 9.5-10.5 mean that the compressor is bad? Compressor model = FLB075LANA
Mine on one side shows OL. Any thoughts?
@@jaimeblazer2002
Not really. Resistance across the pins was fine on mine. But my compressor needed to be replaced. It wasn’t compressing the refrigerant. Probably a failed seal.
@@RyanMcDonnough so on 2 pins i get about 8.5-10.5. On the other pin I just get OL which means open line. My freezer gets to about 30 degrees. I put a water bottle over night didn’t freeze it but it got it Icy. The line on the compressor gets frozen.
@@jaimeblazer2002
It’s clearly working. If there was some sort of failure of the motor that could be tested at the pins, then I doubt it’d work at all. My guess is that the issue lies elsewhere.
@@RyanMcDonnough it doesn’t get cold enough. I get the error code 22 and sometimes the 6 blinking lights. Seems like the compressor over heats or something
My lg fridge will not blow air unless it's in test mode any help
I'm confused. I look up the relay and the internet calls it a thermistor.... then I look up how to test the thermistor and it brings up a differant part. I'm so confused. What you call the relay on mine is solid. So I went ahead and ordered a new control board. Did not fix the issue.
Is there a way to test what your calling the relay?
The compressor runs, the coil fan works; and no blinking light on the circuit board ; but neither fan seems to be working - the fan in the freezer section or the fan in the upper refrigerator section. Can this be a sensor, as it seems unlikely both fans would malfunction simultaneously. This is a Kenmore Elite, but is rally an LG. Not impressed with LG... I have an old General Electric refrigerator that is probably 50 years old, has never been serviced and still runs fine. Quality in modern appliances is no longer a feature.
Hi, I have the lg linear compressor and the ohms on on came in at 10.5 ohms. The other two legs are 0. Is this compressor good?
Mine has the same ohms
So I have the same frig, going to try all of these steps. My refrigerator cools “some”. Gets to 45 in the refrigerator and 33 in the freezer. Any suggestions? Thanks for the video. Happy Palm Sunday.
Maybe it’s your thermistor it’s hard to diagnose when it’s not in front of me
thank you
HI, i HAVE PROBLEM WITH 7TIME BLINK I REPLACE NEW IPM BUT THERE IS NOT OUTPUT VOLTAGE AT COMPRESSOR TERMINAL WHAT TO DO I HAVE PCB WITH NO EBR754862 PLEASE GIVE SOLUTION
Thank you
Hey my lights not wort or blinking is that my board
Maybe get a second opinion it’s hard to answer because it’s not in front of me
Why are there two voices at 0:14??
No voices. Take your meds lol
It’s me doing that I can do that in that kool