If you want to hide the ground strap to the engine there's a nice threaded bolt hole in-between the heater core hose holes and the blower motor hole that I run to the back of the passenger cylinder head. also this is a good time to hit the engine bay with a bath of degreaser and a light coat of spray paint to make everything uniform, a heavy duty wire wheel on a angle grinder will rip through paint, excess seam sealer, and remove rust very easily. just don't sit on one spot to long as it will also remove metal, treat it like you polishing paint just keep it moving and your fine
I’ve always liked the look of the “wire tuck”, but I also don’t want to build some SEMA trailer queen, so it’s a hidden a little, but serviceable if needed. 😀
Yeah those brackets are an eye sore for me. I wanted to remove them so I could have more space for my master cylinder. I didn't realize you could just drill them out. Next project for me probably
I imagine you screwed in the hydraulic spacer by yourself for the content. Proof you had help or it didn't happen. Moving the solenoid and wires really cleans up the look. Great stuff as always.
No, I had my wife help, it's almost impossible to do that part by yourself. Last time I did it (in my other video on my old car when I installed the same hydraulic kit), I had my son help me. It looks better now, but it wasn't perfect in the end of this video, you'll see it all cleaned up in the next video. :)
Fun stuff! I just did your exact battery relocation to the trunk using all the same parts! battery, breaker and battery hold down! I routed everything and modified it slightly but pretty much your exact setup it looks really good I'm just not sure how it's going to work yet tho, and it's too bad it's not the same vintage of mustang but I'm using what I got!
Since you got everything out, this would be a good time to repaint your brake master cylinder with a cast iron colored paint that resists brake fluid. I got some from Eastwood.
This is great stuff Andy. I have only just recently found your channel and it’s been a big help. Only thing is I have to do everything on the opposite side as my 65 is a right hand drive (I live in Australia) 😆
Hey Andy instead of extending to wires on the passenger side you pull the wire harness back through the core support and run the harness across the firewall inside and out to your solenoid oh btw keep your solenoid with the battery in the truck it's safer.
When u hit rust with spot weld drill that's how u know when you're through . Also my motor will be coming out trying to decide on a crate motor or rebuild the 289
Yeah, that rust thing sounds familiar, good to hear it again. Building the 289 will likely be cheap enough to the point where you can still get a few upgrades and still save some money. Is was tempted to build a 7500rpm screamer, but I figured more mid range power was the more realistic use of my motor. 😀
Seems like those holes you drilled through the apron and headlight bucket need to have grommets and be sealed to keep wheel splash from coming through. What ever harness covering you use needs to keep water from accumulating inside the harness.
Great work! I have the cable clutch from modern drive line. Why r u switching to hydraulic? The only part I don’t like is having to step on the clutch all the way down for it to engage.
Good video. Things to keep in mind when I pull my engine out. Just not familiar with wiring. Andy have you seen the bracket from daze cars that mounts to the T5 case instead of the bell housing? … I kinda like it more.
Thanks! It seems like wiring and body work can be two things that a lot of us are unfamiliar with and can pull some of the fun out of a project. I have not seen that bracket before now, and I can see why someone might like the way it mounts to the trans. But I really dig the clean setup with the MDL slave cylinder, and this is now my second car with their parts, it's tough to move to another company when MDL has been so good to me and my car. :)
I say it because it's true Ford fooled alot of people with that car it was nothing more than a Ford falcon with a fancy body, prone to rust and mechanical break downs I know because I had one!!!😵😢😝🤮😡😡
I had the mechanical linkage clutch (known as the Z-bar) in my last Mustang and I was not a fan of it. In that Mustang I upgraded to a cable clutch (when I put in the T5 trans), and then later to a hydraulic clutch because I melted the cable sheath on my exhaust (I didn't follow the instructions). I have since sold that car and when I put the T5 in my current Mustang, I installed the cable clutch because I like the feedback I get with the cable, meaning I can feel when the clutch engages and disengages with the cable option. However, I am getting older and I'm not liking the required leg force to actuate the cable clutch (which essentially the same force to actuate the Z-bar style), it's a lot of strain on my leg. When I recently pulled the 289 out of the car to make way for my new 347 Stroker, I installed the hydraulic clutch (same as my last car) as it's easier on my leg. With all that being said, I still like the cable clutch because it feels more original and I sort of feel connected to the car. But the hydraulic is so buttery smooth and easy to operate, it's tough to not go with the hydraulic option. The hydraulic option is about $200 more than the cable option, so if you have the budget for it, I'd recommend the hydraulic. The kit the MDL sells is what I used both times and what I would recommend to any one asking. :)
The real answer is I do some of these videos over the course of a week (lots of nights and weekends) and some can get done in an afternoon. I did all the stuff in this video almost a month ago. I like to have a buffer of a few weeks, just in case things don't go as planned. :)
Yes, I still like the cable clutch kit, and it has some advantages over the hydraulic kit. However, I'm older than I look and my leg (and my knee) would be better with the Hydraulic kit. :)
![โฮ่ง! (SUGOI) - LYKN [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nFp4zjAARFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Looking good! Level up and break out the welder and fill empty holes. 😁
I thought about doing that, not sure yet....
I put manual rack / tubular suspension/ coil overs/ engine bay paint before new motor install...40 years owned!!! Nice feel with modern upgrades
Yeah, it's great to be able to upgrade these cars. :)
Great time to have the steering box rebuilt
I was thinking about that, it would definitely be easier to do with access to the steering box now. :)
Modern Driveline, ive done two of them, well through out kit, kidda tight under the dash.
Yes, it's tight under there to assemble the linkage, I struggled a little last time. :)
If you want to hide the ground strap to the engine there's a nice threaded bolt hole in-between the heater core hose holes and the blower motor hole that I run to the back of the passenger cylinder head. also this is a good time to hit the engine bay with a bath of degreaser and a light coat of spray paint to make everything uniform, a heavy duty wire wheel on a angle grinder will rip through paint, excess seam sealer, and remove rust very easily. just don't sit on one spot to long as it will also remove metal, treat it like you polishing paint just keep it moving and your fine
Yeah, I already have a ground wire in essentially the same spot.
I did take advantage of the open bay to do a little spring-cleaning. 😀
I got some tools on Black Friday so I can follow along with these videos faster lol
Nice!!
This is coming along really nicely Andy! Love watching you take on these projects. Can't wait to see the engine go in
Thanks! I can't wait either. :)
Great ideas Andy, clean the engine bay up by running the wires in the fender wells.
I’ve always liked the look of the “wire tuck”, but I also don’t want to build some SEMA trailer queen, so it’s a hidden a little, but serviceable if needed. 😀
Ughhh...you keep adding to my list. I'm about to do my video on the export brace so I'm glad you mentioned to remove the brackets for the old brace.
Yeah, I really should have removed them when I put the brace on, I didn’t think it was going to be as easy as it was. 😀
Yeah those brackets are an eye sore for me. I wanted to remove them so I could have more space for my master cylinder. I didn't realize you could just drill them out. Next project for me probably
I imagine you screwed in the hydraulic spacer by yourself for the content. Proof you had help or it didn't happen. Moving the solenoid and wires really cleans up the look. Great stuff as always.
No, I had my wife help, it's almost impossible to do that part by yourself. Last time I did it (in my other video on my old car when I installed the same hydraulic kit), I had my son help me.
It looks better now, but it wasn't perfect in the end of this video, you'll see it all cleaned up in the next video. :)
Bet it's going to look a lot cleaner. That's what I love about the classics
Not only organized better, but I was able to clean it up to and get some new paint in there. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel great job 🙏, I was planning on doing mine when I pull the engine you gave be some good ideas for cleaning it up 😊👍
Yeah. Hmmm. Cool. This gives me some thoughts about my own setup. Great video and helpful content Andy!!
Happy to help, good luck!
Fun stuff! I just did your exact battery relocation to the trunk using all the same parts! battery, breaker and battery hold down! I routed everything and modified it slightly but pretty much your exact setup it looks really good I'm just not sure how it's going to work yet tho, and it's too bad it's not the same vintage of mustang but I'm using what I got!
Your setup should work, everything was good before I pulled the motor, so it should be good when I put the new motor back in. 😀
Since you got everything out, this would be a good time to repaint your brake master cylinder with a cast iron colored paint that resists brake fluid. I got some from Eastwood.
I thought about that, but I have different plans for MC. :)
This is great stuff Andy. I have only just recently found your channel and it’s been a big help. Only thing is I have to do everything on the opposite side as my 65 is a right hand drive (I live in Australia) 😆
Welcome aboard! Most of this stuff should cross over fairly easily. :)
Hey Andy instead of extending to wires on the passenger side you pull the wire harness back through the core support and run the harness across the firewall inside and out to your solenoid oh btw keep your solenoid with the battery in the truck it's safer.
That's a good idea, why didn't I think of that?
When u hit rust with spot weld drill that's how u know when you're through . Also my motor will be coming out trying to decide on a crate motor or rebuild the 289
Yeah, that rust thing sounds familiar, good to hear it again.
Building the 289 will likely be cheap enough to the point where you can still get a few upgrades and still save some money. Is was tempted to build a 7500rpm screamer, but I figured more mid range power was the more realistic use of my motor. 😀
I went with blueprint crate 347... best warantee/ price
Seems like those holes you drilled through the apron and headlight bucket need to have grommets and be sealed to keep wheel splash from coming through. What ever harness covering you use needs to keep water from accumulating inside the harness.
Yeah, that would probably help, but I only drive the car in good weather.
@@AndyKruseChannel - Oh ok, that’s nearly impossible here in Portland. It rains a lot.
Great work! I have the cable clutch from modern drive line. Why r u switching to hydraulic? The only part I don’t like is having to step on the clutch all the way down for it to engage.
Thanks!
I'm old and my leg and knee could use a break from the effort required to do the cable clutch. :)
Good video. Things to keep in mind when I pull my engine out. Just not familiar with wiring. Andy have you seen the bracket from daze cars that mounts to the T5 case instead of the bell housing? … I kinda like it more.
Thanks! It seems like wiring and body work can be two things that a lot of us are unfamiliar with and can pull some of the fun out of a project.
I have not seen that bracket before now, and I can see why someone might like the way it mounts to the trans. But I really dig the clean setup with the MDL slave cylinder, and this is now my second car with their parts, it's tough to move to another company when MDL has been so good to me and my car. :)
Take it to a junk yard that was nothing more than a thow away car like the ford falcon!!!
@Joaquinperez959 why do you say that?
I’ll keep that in mind.
@@Donny.C.wlWilliams honda guy
@@LeeFred78 😆
I say it because it's true Ford fooled alot of people with that car it was nothing more than a Ford falcon with a fancy body, prone to rust and mechanical break downs I know because I had one!!!😵😢😝🤮😡😡
first thing I did was scrub and paint it...
Confirmed, scrubbed and painted. :)
Hey do you like the hydraulic clutch alot better than a cable clutch? Do you think they are both better than a mechanical clutch assembly?
I had the mechanical linkage clutch (known as the Z-bar) in my last Mustang and I was not a fan of it. In that Mustang I upgraded to a cable clutch (when I put in the T5 trans), and then later to a hydraulic clutch because I melted the cable sheath on my exhaust (I didn't follow the instructions). I have since sold that car and when I put the T5 in my current Mustang, I installed the cable clutch because I like the feedback I get with the cable, meaning I can feel when the clutch engages and disengages with the cable option. However, I am getting older and I'm not liking the required leg force to actuate the cable clutch (which essentially the same force to actuate the Z-bar style), it's a lot of strain on my leg. When I recently pulled the 289 out of the car to make way for my new 347 Stroker, I installed the hydraulic clutch (same as my last car) as it's easier on my leg.
With all that being said, I still like the cable clutch because it feels more original and I sort of feel connected to the car. But the hydraulic is so buttery smooth and easy to operate, it's tough to not go with the hydraulic option.
The hydraulic option is about $200 more than the cable option, so if you have the budget for it, I'd recommend the hydraulic. The kit the MDL sells is what I used both times and what I would recommend to any one asking. :)
No power tools! I said no power tools!! 🤣
Power tools make it too easy, we're spoiled these days. :)
Leave that seat out so you have room to get under the dash to put that electric power steering . :-)
You can’t comment with realistic ideas or logic, it ruins my ability to give excuses each week.
@@AndyKruseChannel I apologize for that. That was not my intention. I will crawl back under my rock. lol :-)
How in the world does your wife allow you all this damn free time Jack?!
The real answer is I do some of these videos over the course of a week (lots of nights and weekends) and some can get done in an afternoon. I did all the stuff in this video almost a month ago. I like to have a buffer of a few weeks, just in case things don't go as planned. :)
I thought you preferred the cable?
Yes, I still like the cable clutch kit, and it has some advantages over the hydraulic kit. However, I'm older than I look and my leg (and my knee) would be better with the Hydraulic kit. :)
Perfect time for an ls swap.
There are some many cool reason to put an LS in here, but I'll save that swap for another project. :)