Thanks for the upload exelent video. I'm retiming my fiat 2.5td it's been nothing but a headache I've replaced the injector pump got it running, within 10 mile the turbo gave in, just got the old girl up and running again with a reconditioned turbo , took her out the weekend and within 5 mile the fan belt broke, managed to fix her on the side of the road, enjoyed our night away but on the Sunday as we were leaving the campsite I stalled the engine and the dirty honker jumped teeth on the injector pump, she would not start just blowing white smoke,going to buy new timing belt and hope to god she runs. Its pushing my patience and taking all my money
Locking the injection pump gear - there is a bigger hole about 5mm at the 12 o’clock position near the bolts that hold the pulley on. It’s not this one. It’s a smaller hole about 4mm at the 6 o’clock position on one of the webs of the pulley. On mine it doesn’t slide in quite as definitely as the flywheel locking pin does, but it still seems to hold. To check its holding, take out the flywheel locking pin and gently see if the injection timing gear stays still when you turn the engine (you may need to temporarily put the crank pulley on to try turning the engine). If it holds, put the flywheel locking pin back in.
Hi Dave thank you so much for the video. I have just bought a 1995 fiat ducato camper with the same 2.5td engine. The timing belt needs changing is it advisable to do waterpump as well. Thanks Mark
@@kariokibikers1005 no need to do the coolant pump unless there is any signs of leaking as it isn't driven by the cambelt (and it's a pig to change) 😁.
The 2.8 idtd is timed, the 2.8 jtd is not. Simple to identify which is which, idtd has a throttle cable to the pump and the jtd has no throttle cable as it's fully electronic.
Hi Dave, thanks for the great video, appreciated! My motorhome is the same one, which is great. I cant start mine, it cranks over but doesn't start. So I've narrowed it down to the fuel injection pump or the injectors. If I change out the fuel injection pump, when I've locked out the crank would I definitely also need to lock out the injection pump pulley with a locating pin as well, even though I'm changing the pump out? If I do can I ask what locking pin set do you recommend to lock out the pulley? Thank you very much Dave, any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Dave thank you for your reply! When I have locked out the cam to the correct markings. Now will the Injection pump pulley be in the correct position ready for locking that out, or do I have to do something to get the pump pulley in the correct position, prior to dismantling the fuel inject pump? Thank you Dave, your help is greatly appreciated!@@davesshed1488
@@karlpresley when the crank and cam are in the correct positions the pump should also be lined up to pin it, if it isn't that could be your problem as the pump wouldn't be injecting at the right point of the cycle.
OK thanks Dave, that's put my mind at rest! Might attempt this ??...Just hope the fuel inj pump is easy to dismantle. Thanks for your video Dave and continued help, very much appreciated! @@davesshed1488
I've just come across your channel Dave and have subscribed. That was so useful! I am researching changing my cambelt, water pump and engine mounting on a 2.5 turbo diesel fitted into my 1992 Hymer. Access looks like a real laugh but at least I have the benefit of seeing you do it first. Thanks for uploading the videos..
It's a wee bit different on a 1992 model, that's the MK1 Talbot express type chassis and I think your engine will be completely different to this one. Having said that, from memory (and it's been more than twenty years since I did one) it's not a difficult engine to work on, although access is obviously compromised by the a class body.
@@MrSwissNZ I've not removed an injection pump before buy it should be relatively straight forward, set the engine to the timing position and pin it then you can remove the injection pump pulley and unbolt/disconnect the pump. Refitting is the reverse operation but once you've refitted the pump pulley fit the locking pin before you put the belt on .
@@davesshed1488 thanks Dave. I actually set engine to TDC. And pinned as like you said, funny thing is. Pump is driven of some gears and just slides out, after removing the 3 bolts holding it. Also has a master spline so it cant be installed at a wrong timming position. Thanks anyway for your quick response 🙂
Hi Dave great video!, I am planning to do my 2.8jtd and was wondering is there much difference in the timing belt removal and refit compared to the 2.5td?
Coolant pump is driven from the aux belt on these engines (yes the Citroen/Peugeot 2.8hdi is the same engine as the fiat/iveco 2.8 jtd) not the cambelt
@@davesshed1488 I bought coolant pump just i cause it seems to leek when I start to meck. My van have only been driven 170 000 km. Is it difficult to change The pump?
@@davesshed1488 ok, thanx. Maybe I send The pump back and order a cooler radiator instead. Any difficulty to change it and change cooler liquid and get away air in tubes, airvalves?
Top job. here is some serious tin worm on that chassis leg. I have a question over where the drain from the scuttle should go as mine doesn't seem to have one?
On the early models the scuttle drained off the edge, onto the battery Causing it to flood and wash diluted battery acid down the OSF chassis leg causing much of the tinworm you see in this vid. You can decide your own drain as long as it exists directly to the ground and not over any body or mechanicals. By the way, check where your heater intake drain is positioned, they often end up right above the gear selector mech and cause water to enter the gearbox.
Excellent video as no workshop manual available. Do you have a video of replacing a clutch, with the engine out of the vehicle? Main fault was turbo hanging on by one nut! Why design a vehicle that no garage will touch due to age and parts availability?
Thanks for the positive feedback, I'm sorry I don't have a vid of doing the clutch, never had to do one. When it was designed it wasn't too old to get parts was it? There are still plenty of garages that will work on these, you just need to find them.
Great video, thank you. Is there more than 1 hole in the flywheel to lock it and are there any other marks to verify? I have a timing problem on a campervan I am trying to resolve. Thanks again.
Hi, yes there are multiple locations in the flywheel that the locking pin will engage with, keep turning the crank slowly and trying the pin till you find one slot that puts the cam and injection pump timing marks/holes as near correct as you can. When you remove the crank pulley the keyway in the crank timing pulley should be at twelve o clock.
@@davesshed1488 Thanks for the tip I got it sorted. On my engine there are 2 marks on the Cam pulley, one is a large V that is wrong and the other a tiny notch that is the correct mark. It just so happens that the flywheel also has a hole that lines up perfectly with the incorrect V on the Cam. No harm don't as I kept the cam and crank in sync but drove he mad for a few hours. Thanks again.
Hey! Thank you so much for this video! Could you please tell me the references of the electric red tool you are using? I don't know the name in english sorry. My dad said it looks very usefull and I would like to buy it as a surprise. Have a nice day
I am installing this engine in my motorhome. But i cannot find any information about the timing advance on this thing. I've adjusted it to 1.0mm but it is wrong. That value is for 8140.21, and my engine is this, 8140.47...
HI DAVE LOOKING TO CHANGE MY ALTERNATOR BELT ON THE SAME ENGINE. IS IT EASIER JUST TO REMOVE THE CRANK PULLEY THEN REPLACE THE BELT. ANY TIPS REGARDS J
You're better off loosening the alternator to remove the old belt and that will allow you to tension the new belt correctly. It is a bit fiddly to get to the alternator fixings as its right down the back of the engine so you'll need to jack it up and put it on stands then go in from behind the drivers front wheel to get to it.
Thanks dave. I can see the alternator but as u say its a tight squeeze. Ill gave that a go. Ill leave the timing belt to experience like urself. Thanks for replying
Does anyone know where i can get a cambelt kit for a 1998 Citroen relay 2.5 tdi. (Its a 32mm width belt with the hydrolic adjuster) I can't find a full kit anywhere anymore.
Excellent video and really what I was looking for as the engine I have is 2.5 Fiat TD 1998. Just a quick question, having been stranded on the hardsholder for 24 hours due to a broken clutch cable, it now belches out alot of white smoke when pulling away with limited acceleration? Any pointers? KR, AD.
There is no obvious connection between a broken clutch cable and the engine running badly, unless something got dislodged or broken during the cable change. White "smoke" could be coolant getting into the combustion chamber, perhaps a blown head gasket. There are several possibilities and your best bet is take it to a garage for proper diagnosis.
Thanks for a really interesting and clear video. Just a question about the High Pressure fuel pump on a 2005 Ducato 2.0 van - the van won't start after being left for a few years (the starter motor broke and I was waiting for a sunny day in Coventry to replace it). I've replaced the low pressure pump, fuel filter, and HPFP solenoid. Still no fuel coming out of the HPFP so I conclude it has to be that. Is there any easy way to swap the HPFP out? What do I do about timing it? I'm at the end of my rope with this van to be honest.
It could be an immobiliser issue rather than a fault with the HPFP, the immob unit is bolted to the steering column behind the steering column cowl. Does the "code" light on the instrument panel stay on when you try to start it?
@@davesshed1488 I was wondering about this, as the van "forgot" its key fob a while ago and I had to re-learn it by putting key into ignition and holding a button for 10 seconds - it works again now. The Immob. (code) light goes off before I turn the key though. IF the immob is not working, how does it stop the HPFP from working, as the HPFP is just mechanical I thought?
@@Showing_the_car_ Sounds like the HPFP then, or it could be the rail pressure sensor, I assume you're reading the rail pressure from "live data" via a diagnostic machine?
Hello Dave Its vert helpfull to ser u r videos, Thank you for sharing I have Fiat ducato 1991, 2.5 But belt 152 teeth is not titting, do i need belt with 153 teeth? Its nothing writen om the old belt, so i can not see how much teeth IT is om IT Thank you
Hi Dave, great video thanks. Before I start on my 1996 Peugeot Boxer 2.5td do I have to buy the tensioner pulleys as well? The reason I ask is that the belt and tensioners were replaced in 2011 at 61,000 miles. It's only done 74,900 10 years later. I understand the belt will need changing because of the age and possibility of failing, but do the tensioner pulleys need to be replaced?
Belt and tensioners should come as a kit, that's tensioners as in the actual rollers not the spring unit. You may or may not get a new spring unit with the kit depending on manufacturer.
@@richardbell4615 don't do it man! Buy cheap buy twice. That belt or the tensioners fail and your engine is a gonner. Very poor economy to skimp on something so vital. Get a proper kit from your local motor factors, I use INA kits.
Hi, I came across your video and found it very useful and would like to thank you for the trouble you took to illustrate it. I have one question which I would like to ask you. My father has a fiat ducato very similar to the engine you have shown and after a few months in operation the diesel pump jumps one tooth on the timing belt. We have changed the belt, tensioner and idler and also serviced the pump but the issue continued to repeat itself. Recently I noticed that after a few months in operation, the timing belt becomes loose due to streching so the tensioner is not doing its job. I spoke to my mechanic about it and he told me that when we tighten the tensioner bolt, it is locking the bracket in place and thus the spring loaded pin is not doing its function in keeping the belt tight and compensating for the extra stretching. Is this normal that when you tighten the tensioner bolt, it becomes locked in position and the spring cannot move it? it is so tight that you wont manage to move the tensioner with a crowbar to release the spring load to remove the belt with out loosening it
Yes it is perfectly normal for the tensioner centre stud and nut to lock the tensioner in place, the spring loaded unit si only there to tension the belt initially. The belts do not normally stretch in service so if your fathers is going loose after a short period there is something else amiss. check you have the washers in the correct orientation on the tensioner stud/nut, its quite common to put them in wrong and then the clamping force is not correct.
@@davesshed1488 Thanks for your reply. In fact the washers are the otherway round when compared to your video. Can I send you some pictures of how everthing is assembled on my fathers engine so I can confirm with you? My suspicion is that every machanic see it wrong when he dismantles and reassembles it the exact way he put it off and the mistake remains uncorrected
Hi Dave,it's been a long time lol.i have a noise like a droning noise.it appears to be coming from the oil cooler or oil heat exchanger.have you heard of this before?cheers. Des
The oil cooler/heat exchanger on these engines is mounted on the oil pump housing so any noise from that area is likely to be the pump itself. To be honest its not something I've ever encountered so can't really offer any suggestions other than to check the oil pressure with a gauge when the engine is hot.
Dave, great view video. I’ve just taken my cam belt out. Looks like my tensioner has seized. Is this something common? Do I need to remove the water pump to change it or can one usually get it out in situ?
It depends on which engine you have, the 2.5 (and later 2.8) as in this video you don't need to touch the water pump to do anything related to the timing belt. Other engine options will be different but I've not seen one that needs the water pump to be removed to do anything with the timing belt.
That was fast :) It's a 1994 2.5TD. At this stage the tensioner (i.e. the pin you're meant to hold back with the slotted washer, position 19:06 on the video) is completely seized and I'm pretty sure should be replaced. I'm not sure if I can simply push it out with a lever or if there is a chance I could crack something on the pump. Tapping it with a small hammer doesn't do anything - it doesn't budge. In the meantime I've sprayed WD40 on both ends hoping to loosen it up.
@@rogerivy8525 sorry I thought you meant the tensioner pulley rather than the spring unit. First up try soaking it with wd40 and see if that releases it. Applying some heat to it may help although you'll obviously need to be very careful not to set fire to any noise insulation material. If all else fails then you will have to remove the water pump which is a difficult job as it bolts to the rear of the engine and there's a pipe bolted to it which is very tricky to get to.
Hi Dave! I like this alot as im about to do it! Often one change waterpump on the same time as one change cambelt. dont one have to do that with "2,5 TDI"? The RV´s last cam-belt-change was (20.000Km ago, 2012)
Hi Tucka, yes this is an interference engine. To be honest I don't know of any diesel engine that isn't interference. If its only jumped a couple of teeth you may be lucky and get away with a new belt and tensioner/idler kit, got to be worth a try before you take the head off.
@@davesshed1488 Hi thank you Dave,I was afraid of that.it turns over ok just doesnt fire.we were driving along and it just stalled.the guide on the front of the cam pulley broke too.im not sure yet what caused that
@@tucka1234 I'm going to say you've probably got valve damage and need to take the head off. It's still worth putting a belt and tensioners set on it, time it up and give it a go. Whatever you do, don't try to turn it over again till you've rest the valve timing and pump timing.
@@tucka1234 It depends on your specific engine, I think the 2.5 should be 153 from memory and the tensioner and idler wheels are the same size, this is the same for early 2.8 engines, later 2.8s have 154 teeth (I think) and slightly different sized idler and tensioner wheels.
Have you ever known issues with code p0340 and p0016 fiat ducato starts fine but stop and try again so t start it stalls . But if you try the first time in a day it drives no issues until you turn off and like said above try again
P0340 and P0016 codes both relate to cam sensor issues, most specifically p0016 is a cam/crank correlation fault which usually means the cam timing is out. You need to check the cam timing before you drive it any further, it could be an indication of impending belt failure. Unless of course it has recently been changed in which case the timing is almost certainly out.
@@davesshed1488 yes you are right 6k miles ago had new timing chain I’ve found it in the history receipts. I’ve not had it long the issues have just started like I mentioned
@@davesshed1488 hi buddy it’s a motorhome fiat ducato 3.0 comformatic euro5 160 maxijet the issue came on last week where struggles to start after a run like I mentioned then start and stop after a few mins it struggles to start again and cuts out . Rac came to the roadside unplugged camshaft to start it get me home said camshaft sensor issue but it wasn’t it’s been changed so has the crankshaft sensor . It throws the bank 1 correlation codes p0016 and p0340 but that’s coming on when you unplug the camshaft obviously to start it lol . the other codes that come up are all lambda sensor related As follows p2243 p0053 p250A Buts it’s just had a service and the code p250A went off Only codes at the moment are p2243 p0340 no noises at all runs fine if you don’t stop until you get to planned destination of course . Once there try to start it will not leave it half hour it will or unplugging camshaft sensor
@@davesshed1488 it’s actually been in my local garage he phoned me Friday said sorry mate it’s a head scratcher we don’t know what it is. Continuity works out so does the ecu but they get no information at all from the timing is all they say . It’s a big job doing the timing chain which we don’t take on here take it to a fiat specialist they said . I found receipts for £800. Full timing chain done 10 month ago at 6k miles ago so I’m just very unsure now what to think. Electric issue or broke terminal te connector on the harness to a cam plug it’s strange . Or timing mistakes done on the job and timing out by a tooth as it will run I’m told
Thanks for the upload exelent video. I'm retiming my fiat 2.5td it's been nothing but a headache I've replaced the injector pump got it running, within 10 mile the turbo gave in, just got the old girl up and running again with a reconditioned turbo , took her out the weekend and within 5 mile the fan belt broke, managed to fix her on the side of the road, enjoyed our night away but on the Sunday as we were leaving the campsite I stalled the engine and the dirty honker jumped teeth on the injector pump, she would not start just blowing white smoke,going to buy new timing belt and hope to god she runs. Its pushing my patience and taking all my money
Locking the injection pump gear - there is a bigger hole about 5mm at the 12 o’clock position near the bolts that hold the pulley on. It’s not this one.
It’s a smaller hole about 4mm at the 6 o’clock position on one of the webs of the pulley. On mine it doesn’t slide in quite as definitely as the flywheel locking pin does, but it still seems to hold. To check its holding, take out the flywheel locking pin and gently see if the injection timing gear stays still when you turn the engine (you may need to temporarily put the crank pulley on to try turning the engine). If it holds, put the flywheel locking pin back in.
Hi Dave thank you so much for the video. I have just bought a 1995 fiat ducato camper with the same 2.5td engine. The timing belt needs changing is it advisable to do waterpump as well.
Thanks
Mark
@@kariokibikers1005 no need to do the coolant pump unless there is any signs of leaking as it isn't driven by the cambelt (and it's a pig to change) 😁.
Thanks Dave your input is greatly appreciated
Have u done a 2.8 2000 fiat ducto .would like to know are fuel pumps are timed
The 2.8 idtd is timed, the 2.8 jtd is not. Simple to identify which is which, idtd has a throttle cable to the pump and the jtd has no throttle cable as it's fully electronic.
@davesshed1488 thankyou so much
Hi Dave, thanks for the great video, appreciated!
My motorhome is the same one, which is great. I cant start mine, it cranks over but doesn't start. So I've narrowed it down to the fuel injection pump or the injectors.
If I change out the fuel injection pump, when I've locked out the crank would I definitely also need to lock out the injection pump pulley with a locating pin as well, even though I'm changing the pump out? If I do can I ask what locking pin set do you recommend to lock out the pulley?
Thank you very much Dave, any help would be greatly appreciated!
The pump is timed to the cam and crank so it will need to be pinned, a drill bit of appropriate size will do the job just as in the video.
Hi Dave thank you for your reply!
When I have locked out the cam to the correct markings. Now will the Injection pump pulley be in the correct position ready for locking that out, or do I have to do something to get the pump pulley in the correct position, prior to dismantling the fuel inject pump? Thank you Dave, your help is greatly appreciated!@@davesshed1488
@@karlpresley when the crank and cam are in the correct positions the pump should also be lined up to pin it, if it isn't that could be your problem as the pump wouldn't be injecting at the right point of the cycle.
OK thanks Dave, that's put my mind at rest!
Might attempt this ??...Just hope the fuel inj pump is easy to dismantle.
Thanks for your video Dave and continued help, very much appreciated! @@davesshed1488
I've just come across your channel Dave and have subscribed. That was so useful! I am researching changing my cambelt, water pump and engine mounting on a 2.5 turbo diesel fitted into my 1992 Hymer. Access looks like a real laugh but at least I have the benefit of seeing you do it first.
Thanks for uploading the videos..
It's a wee bit different on a 1992 model, that's the MK1 Talbot express type chassis and I think your engine will be completely different to this one. Having said that, from memory (and it's been more than twenty years since I did one) it's not a difficult engine to work on, although access is obviously compromised by the a class body.
Deutsche Sprache
Do you happen to know what size is the C-shaped tensioner tool? 19:26
Not sure what you mean, it's about 8mm thick from memory but I've never actually measured it.
I saw elsewhere you can use a big nut with one face cut through. I used one about 20mm, 8 mm thick and the internal slot needs to be about 12-14mm.
Thanks for that Dave! have you removed the direct injection pump before? I cant seem to find any info. Regards Ronny
@@MrSwissNZ I've not removed an injection pump before buy it should be relatively straight forward, set the engine to the timing position and pin it then you can remove the injection pump pulley and unbolt/disconnect the pump. Refitting is the reverse operation but once you've refitted the pump pulley fit the locking pin before you put the belt on
.
@@davesshed1488 thanks Dave. I actually set engine to TDC. And pinned as like you said, funny thing is. Pump is driven of some gears and just slides out, after removing the 3 bolts holding it. Also has a master spline so it cant be installed at a wrong timming position. Thanks anyway for your quick response 🙂
Hi Dave great video!, I am planning to do my 2.8jtd and was wondering is there much difference in the timing belt removal and refit compared to the 2.5td?
Not much at all, in fact I did a brief vid on the 2.8 jtd as well.
Hi can i ask if you need to replace the timing belt tensioner bolt as it doesnt come in dayco kit , cheers
There's no need to replace the bolt.
Thanx Dave. I have a 2,8 hdi citroen jumper from 2002. I seems much The same. But where is The Waterpump seated? Cambelt or auxbelt? Mvh Johan
Coolant pump is driven from the aux belt on these engines (yes the Citroen/Peugeot 2.8hdi is the same engine as the fiat/iveco 2.8 jtd) not the cambelt
@@davesshed1488 I bought coolant pump just i cause it seems to leek when I start to meck. My van have only been driven 170 000 km. Is it difficult to change The pump?
@@Skogsharry it is a bit tricky to change the coolant pump as it sits at the rear of the engine so access is difficult.
@@davesshed1488 ok, thanx. Maybe I send The pump back and order a cooler radiator instead. Any difficulty to change it and change cooler liquid and get away air in tubes, airvalves?
Top job. here is some serious tin worm on that chassis leg. I have a question over where the drain from the scuttle should go as mine doesn't seem to have one?
On the early models the scuttle drained off the edge, onto the battery Causing it to flood and wash diluted battery acid down the OSF chassis leg causing much of the tinworm you see in this vid. You can decide your own drain as long as it exists directly to the ground and not over any body or mechanicals. By the way, check where your heater intake drain is positioned, they often end up right above the gear selector mech and cause water to enter the gearbox.
Excellent video as no workshop manual available. Do you have a video of replacing a clutch, with the engine out of the vehicle? Main fault was turbo hanging on by one nut! Why design a vehicle that no garage will touch due to age and parts availability?
Thanks for the positive feedback, I'm sorry I don't have a vid of doing the clutch, never had to do one. When it was designed it wasn't too old to get parts was it? There are still plenty of garages that will work on these, you just need to find them.
Great video, thank you.
Is there more than 1 hole in the flywheel to lock it and are there any other marks to verify? I have a timing problem on a campervan I am trying to resolve. Thanks again.
Hi, yes there are multiple locations in the flywheel that the locking pin will engage with, keep turning the crank slowly and trying the pin till you find one slot that puts the cam and injection pump timing marks/holes as near correct as you can. When you remove the crank pulley the keyway in the crank timing pulley should be at twelve o clock.
@@davesshed1488 Thanks for the tip I got it sorted. On my engine there are 2 marks on the Cam pulley, one is a large V that is wrong and the other a tiny notch that is the correct mark. It just so happens that the flywheel also has a hole that lines up perfectly with the incorrect V on the Cam. No harm don't as I kept the cam and crank in sync but drove he mad for a few hours. Thanks again.
I do enjoy your videos, Dave. Keep it up!
Thanks Bob, good to know someone watches it😁👍.
Hey! Thank you so much for this video! Could you please tell me the references of the electric red tool you are using? I don't know the name in english sorry. My dad said it looks very usefull and I would like to buy it as a surprise.
Have a nice day
That helped me a lot Dave! Thanks a lot! Best regards from Kiel
Excellent commentary Dave, thanks
I am installing this engine in my motorhome.
But i cannot find any information about the timing advance on this thing.
I've adjusted it to 1.0mm but it is wrong. That value is for 8140.21, and my engine is this, 8140.47...
Hi Dave, Is a broken Tensioner Block common pease, if so I'll order one just in case. Where's best to get one?
What exactly do you mean by "tensioner block"?
HI DAVE LOOKING TO CHANGE MY ALTERNATOR BELT ON THE SAME ENGINE. IS IT EASIER JUST TO REMOVE THE CRANK PULLEY THEN REPLACE THE BELT. ANY TIPS REGARDS J
You're better off loosening the alternator to remove the old belt and that will allow you to tension the new belt correctly. It is a bit fiddly to get to the alternator fixings as its right down the back of the engine so you'll need to jack it up and put it on stands then go in from behind the drivers front wheel to get to it.
Thanks dave. I can see the alternator but as u say its a tight squeeze. Ill gave that a go. Ill leave the timing belt to experience like urself. Thanks for replying
Does anyone know where i can get a cambelt kit for a 1998 Citroen relay 2.5 tdi. (Its a 32mm width belt with the hydrolic adjuster) I can't find a full kit anywhere anymore.
Try coastal motorhomes, They advertise on eBay but also have a very good website and are very helpful.
Excellent video and really what I was looking for as the engine I have is 2.5 Fiat TD 1998. Just a quick question, having been stranded on the hardsholder for 24 hours due to a broken clutch cable, it now belches out alot of white smoke when pulling away with limited acceleration? Any pointers? KR, AD.
There is no obvious connection between a broken clutch cable and the engine running badly, unless something got dislodged or broken during the cable change. White "smoke" could be coolant getting into the combustion chamber, perhaps a blown head gasket. There are several possibilities and your best bet is take it to a garage for proper diagnosis.
tienen un video o tutorial del desmonte o reemplazo de la bomba de agua
Sorry but I have no idea what you said.
Thanks for a really interesting and clear video. Just a question about the High Pressure fuel pump on a 2005 Ducato 2.0 van - the van won't start after being left for a few years (the starter motor broke and I was waiting for a sunny day in Coventry to replace it). I've replaced the low pressure pump, fuel filter, and HPFP solenoid. Still no fuel coming out of the HPFP so I conclude it has to be that. Is there any easy way to swap the HPFP out? What do I do about timing it? I'm at the end of my rope with this van to be honest.
It could be an immobiliser issue rather than a fault with the HPFP, the immob unit is bolted to the steering column behind the steering column cowl. Does the "code" light on the instrument panel stay on when you try to start it?
@@davesshed1488 I was wondering about this, as the van "forgot" its key fob a while ago and I had to re-learn it by putting key into ignition and holding a button for 10 seconds - it works again now. The Immob. (code) light goes off before I turn the key though. IF the immob is not working, how does it stop the HPFP from working, as the HPFP is just mechanical I thought?
@@Showing_the_car_ The immobiliser works on the injectors rather than the HPFP. Do you get rail pressure during cranking?
@@davesshed1488 Nope... I get 5 bar when it "desires" 300 bar....
@@Showing_the_car_ Sounds like the HPFP then, or it could be the rail pressure sensor, I assume you're reading the rail pressure from "live data" via a diagnostic machine?
Hello Dave
Its vert helpfull to ser u r videos, Thank you for sharing
I have Fiat ducato 1991, 2.5 But belt 152 teeth is not titting, do i need belt with 153 teeth? Its nothing writen om the old belt, so i can not see how much teeth IT is om IT
Thank you
How many teeth on the old belt?
You can count the teeth on the old belt.
I count IT is 152, the new one is also 152 But its not fitting,
@@basirahmadi428 compare the diameters of the tensioner and idler pulleys against the old ones.
@@davesshed1488 IT is the same size
Hi Dave, great video thanks. Before I start on my 1996 Peugeot Boxer 2.5td do I have to buy the tensioner pulleys as well? The reason I ask is that the belt and tensioners were replaced in 2011 at 61,000 miles. It's only done 74,900 10 years later. I understand the belt will need changing because of the age and possibility of failing, but do the tensioner pulleys need to be replaced?
Belt and tensioners should come as a kit, that's tensioners as in the actual rollers not the spring unit. You may or may not get a new spring unit with the kit depending on manufacturer.
@@davesshed1488 Dave that was quick! I can buy a cambelt on it's own for not much money, like £17.00 for a genuine Peugeot belt off eBay....
Just not sure if the rollers need replacing?
@@richardbell4615 don't do it man! Buy cheap buy twice. That belt or the tensioners fail and your engine is a gonner. Very poor economy to skimp on something so vital. Get a proper kit from your local motor factors, I use INA kits.
@@richardbell4615 replace the lot.
Really good Dave!
Hi, I came across your video and found it very useful and would like to thank you for the trouble you took to illustrate it. I have one question which I would like to ask you. My father has a fiat ducato very similar to the engine you have shown and after a few months in operation the diesel pump jumps one tooth on the timing belt. We have changed the belt, tensioner and idler and also serviced the pump but the issue continued to repeat itself. Recently I noticed that after a few months in operation, the timing belt becomes loose due to streching so the tensioner is not doing its job. I spoke to my mechanic about it and he told me that when we tighten the tensioner bolt, it is locking the bracket in place and thus the spring loaded pin is not doing its function in keeping the belt tight and compensating for the extra stretching. Is this normal that when you tighten the tensioner bolt, it becomes locked in position and the spring cannot move it? it is so tight that you wont manage to move the tensioner with a crowbar to release the spring load to remove the belt with out loosening it
Yes it is perfectly normal for the tensioner centre stud and nut to lock the tensioner in place, the spring loaded unit si only there to tension the belt initially. The belts do not normally stretch in service so if your fathers is going loose after a short period there is something else amiss. check you have the washers in the correct orientation on the tensioner stud/nut, its quite common to put them in wrong and then the clamping force is not correct.
@@davesshed1488 Thanks for your reply. In fact the washers are the otherway round when compared to your video. Can I send you some pictures of how everthing is assembled on my fathers engine so I can confirm with you? My suspicion is that every machanic see it wrong when he dismantles and reassembles it the exact way he put it off and the mistake remains uncorrected
@@christopherdebono4384 by all means upload a few pics of your father's setup, if I can help I will.
dave are you familiar with 2.8 jtd
@@MrGodsking yes, what do you need to know?
@@davesshed1488 i have no fuel at the rail i have it going to high pressure pump
@@MrGodsking what year is the vehicle? Two possibilities, hpfp failure or immobiliser not clearing .
@@davesshed1488 is there a way to bypass the immobiliser
Hi Dave,it's been a long time lol.i have a noise like a droning noise.it appears to be coming from the oil cooler or oil heat exchanger.have you heard of this before?cheers. Des
The oil cooler/heat exchanger on these engines is mounted on the oil pump housing so any noise from that area is likely to be the pump itself. To be honest its not something I've ever encountered so can't really offer any suggestions other than to check the oil pressure with a gauge when the engine is hot.
@@davesshed1488 ok thank you Dave
Dave, great view video. I’ve just taken my cam belt out.
Looks like my tensioner has seized. Is this something common?
Do I need to remove the water pump to change it or can one usually get it out in situ?
It depends on which engine you have, the 2.5 (and later 2.8) as in this video you don't need to touch the water pump to do anything related to the timing belt. Other engine options will be different but I've not seen one that needs the water pump to be removed to do anything with the timing belt.
That was fast :)
It's a 1994 2.5TD. At this stage the tensioner (i.e. the pin you're meant to hold back with the slotted washer, position 19:06 on the video) is completely seized and I'm pretty sure should be replaced. I'm not sure if I can simply push it out with a lever or if there is a chance I could crack something on the pump. Tapping it with a small hammer doesn't do anything - it doesn't budge.
In the meantime I've sprayed WD40 on both ends hoping to loosen it up.
@@rogerivy8525 sorry I thought you meant the tensioner pulley rather than the spring unit. First up try soaking it with wd40 and see if that releases it. Applying some heat to it may help although you'll obviously need to be very careful not to set fire to any noise insulation material. If all else fails then you will have to remove the water pump which is a difficult job as it bolts to the rear of the engine and there's a pipe bolted to it which is very tricky to get to.
Aww your message went into my junk , took it all apart and replaced it and torqued ut with thread lock ,previous torque only went up to 25 nm
Hi Dave! I like this alot as im about to do it! Often one change waterpump on the same time as one change cambelt. dont one have to do that with "2,5 TDI"? The RV´s last cam-belt-change was (20.000Km ago, 2012)
As the water pump isn't driven by the cambelt on this engine there is no reason to change it unless it is leaking or noisy.
Cheers for this Dave, nice to see such confidence to a novice like myself. Do you take paid jobs as a mechanic?
I run my own business specialising in motorhome servicing and accessories. Dave Newell leisure vehicle services
Thanks very helpful
Bravo
Hi my cambelt has jumped teeth.are these interference engines?thanks
Hi Tucka, yes this is an interference engine. To be honest I don't know of any diesel engine that isn't interference. If its only jumped a couple of teeth you may be lucky and get away with a new belt and tensioner/idler kit, got to be worth a try before you take the head off.
@@davesshed1488 Hi thank you Dave,I was afraid of that.it turns over ok just doesnt fire.we were driving along and it just stalled.the guide on the front of the cam pulley broke too.im not sure yet what caused that
@@tucka1234 I'm going to say you've probably got valve damage and need to take the head off. It's still worth putting a belt and tensioners set on it, time it up and give it a go. Whatever you do, don't try to turn it over again till you've rest the valve timing and pump timing.
How many teeth are on the cambelt please Dave
@@tucka1234 It depends on your specific engine, I think the 2.5 should be 153 from memory and the tensioner and idler wheels are the same size, this is the same for early 2.8 engines, later 2.8s have 154 teeth (I think) and slightly different sized idler and tensioner wheels.
Have you ever known issues with code p0340 and p0016 fiat ducato starts fine but stop and try again so t start it stalls . But if you try the first time in a day it drives no issues until you turn off and like said above try again
P0340 and P0016 codes both relate to cam sensor issues, most specifically p0016 is a cam/crank correlation fault which usually means the cam timing is out. You need to check the cam timing before you drive it any further, it could be an indication of impending belt failure. Unless of course it has recently been changed in which case the timing is almost certainly out.
@@davesshed1488 yes you are right 6k miles ago had new timing chain I’ve found it in the history receipts. I’ve not had it long the issues have just started like I mentioned
@@MotorhomeDIY What vehicle is it?
@@davesshed1488 hi buddy it’s a motorhome fiat ducato 3.0 comformatic euro5 160 maxijet the issue came on last week where struggles to start after a run like I mentioned then start and stop after a few mins it struggles to start again and cuts out . Rac came to the roadside unplugged camshaft to start it get me home said camshaft sensor issue but it wasn’t it’s been changed so has the crankshaft sensor . It throws the bank 1 correlation codes p0016 and p0340 but that’s coming on when you unplug the camshaft obviously to start it lol . the other codes that come up are all lambda sensor related
As follows p2243 p0053 p250A
Buts it’s just had a service and the code p250A went off
Only codes at the moment are p2243 p0340 no noises at all runs fine if you don’t stop until you get to planned destination of course . Once there try to start it will not leave it half hour it will or unplugging camshaft sensor
@@davesshed1488 it’s actually been in my local garage he phoned me Friday said sorry mate it’s a head scratcher we don’t know what it is. Continuity works out so does the ecu but they get no information at all from the timing is all they say . It’s a big job doing the timing chain which we don’t take on here take it to a fiat specialist they said . I found receipts for £800. Full timing chain done 10 month ago at 6k miles ago so I’m just very unsure now what to think. Electric issue or broke terminal te connector on the harness to a cam plug it’s strange . Or timing mistakes done on the job and timing out by a tooth as it will run I’m told
At 13 minutes you didn't finish saying why you left the belt tight before removing the bottom pully
Because there's no need to slacken it off. The pulley comes off quite easily without altering the aux belt adjustment.
Двигатель
Sofim 8140.47~. Два раза ремень рвался после 50000,возможно, попадала грязь от колеса.
That's a different 2.5 to my 1998 model
Is yours a fiat or perhaps Citroen or Peugeot?
@@davesshed1488 ah yes good point... This is the peogoet Boxer...
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