Fantastic video,just purchased a Bessacar on this chassis and trying to find info on this procedure is so hard to find, KEEP UP THE GREAT CONTENT MANY THANKS
Great, it took me a lot to get this information... I'm assembling a 2.8 master and this part of the tensioner was disassembled, all the videos show the synchronization but not these details, thanks from Cordoba, Argentina
Hi Dave, thanks for the great videos! I noticed that you used 2 timing pins but I only saw 1 pin being used in the part 1 vid. Please could you show where both the timing pins go. I'm just a bit unsure where they go? My motor is the 1995 Fiat Ducato 2.5 diesel mk 2 engine. It looks similar to the one you worked on in this video. Thanks very much for your help Dave! Greatly appreciated!
If you watch the first part of this series of two videos you will see where the other locking pin goes, its for the injection pump and when the cam and crank are in their correct positions there is a hole in one spoke of the injection pump pulley that will line up with a hole behind it, this is the location for the timing pin.
@@davesshed1488 Hi Dave thank you for the reply! I think I've found them!! As I faced the front of the engine I assumed everything was on the left side, where the cam belt is...lol, but have now locked the crank on the bell housing on right side of my engine. I think I have found the hole in one spoke of the timing pulley to lock the inj pump timing. Only problem is this hole seems smaller in diameter than the bell housing hole, so I used a small allen key to go into the hole but it doesn't seem to go in that far but maybe this hole isn't that deep? Also do you think I would get away with using this to lock timing or a small screwdriver etc. Or would I need to buy a proper timing lock out pin? Thanks I greatly appreciate your help!
Great video, will attempt with a bit more confidence now, on my ducato, it's the same year and engine as the one your working on, do you have any more videos for this model. I need to replace outer CV boot.thanks
Yes the 2.8 is exactly the same as this, just check the number of teeth on the new belt against the old and check the tensioner and idler pulleys are the correct size. If it's a 2.8 idtd then you need to lock the injector pump, if it's a jtd then you don't need to.
@@davesshed1488 Hi Dave my plan is take the belt off first before getting the new one, and measuring the pulley's also, thanks for your repy and putting the video up
@@no1conrod I may have misled with my last comment about the 2.8 being identical. It is with one exception, the idtd version you can leave the top engine mounting in situ but if it's the jtd version then you need to remove the top engine mounting to get the belt cover off.
@@davesshed1488 Hi Dave i'm not sure which engine that the van has until i turn up in the morning i'll be taking trolly jack and axle stands so should have most cases covered thanks again for the information
Thank you so much Dave.i managed to put cambelt back on and time it.i still need to get a cambelt kit next week but looks like hard to get here in nz.the old one walks off.do you think I will have to get a new cam pulley as half the guide has broken off?and is the guide necessary. Thanks
@@tucka1234 I wouldn't have thought that likely to be honest, more likely that the tensioner and idler pulleys are worn causing the belt to go a bit slack.
Dave, great video, helped me realise as an amateur DIYer I can’t do my cam belt on my Fiat Ducato MH 2019 face lift model. It’s not due for another year, but I was wondering if you do jobs for people. I don’t trust garages in general as my experience is they don’t have a clue and usually brake something.
Thanks for a great couple of videos, very informative. I want to change the timing belt on a 1994 Hymer but can I just check if you know please - is this Engine 8140.27? Access looks more tricky on mine but if it's the same engine I am confident that I can do this job myself having watched your videos. Thanks again!
Today I was able to disassemble everything and I am at the point where I must lock the flywheel with campulley, injection pulley and engine shaft in correct position. I moved a sign on the cam pulley to a mark on the engine top. In that position and after two engine turns I can't find the notch on the flywheel to insert the pin. There is a hole on the gear side similar to the one you inserted the 8 mil pin. In my case there are two bolts close to that hole. Anyway with camshaft pulley in correct position 8 mil pin don't lock the flywheel.... Where am I wrong?
Its a spring loaded unit, they don't really wear out as once you've installed and tensioned the belt you lock the tensioner pulley and the spring unit does nothing further, they do sieze up though so its worth changing it when you do the belt, most belt and pulley kits seem to include the tensioner spring unit.
Hi Dave, is there a special way of getting the alternator belt on, or is it a matter of brute force and using something to lever it on to the wheels? thanks, Regards, Karl
You can either slacken the alternator adjustment off or the way I do it is put the belt on the alt and coolant pulleys then fit the crank pulley, it can be a bit tight but as long as the belt is the same size as the old one it should fit.
@@davesshed1488 Hi Dave, thank you so much for your advice I've now got the alternator belt on and I've rotated the crank about 3 times and it seems ok...fingers crossed!!..lol Only problem is I couldn't get the torque tool on the tensioner pulley, as it hits the side of the motor, cant get any ratchet on it. so I tightened it by spanner as much as I can, should that be ok? Cheers Dave, best regards. Karl
Hey Krille, can you tell me which size the pins for the fuel pump have? The one for the fly wheel is m8 as i understood dave. I have seen a video where somebody used a vise grip insteady of daves tool for the tensioner pully... maybe that helps you. Best regards erik
Hi thank you for the really well done video. Today they asked me 800Euros to do the cambelt replacement, I think I'll do it by myself, I already did it a couple of times on my multipla 1.9 MJT (no need to get the high pressure in synk) Why did't you change the water pump? Usually when you replace cambelt it's nice to change water pump at the same time. Thanks again
@karllee4832 Hi Dave, I've also got too much slack on the belt on the crank pulley, what did you do to move the belt over the teeth, to get it nice and taught on the non tensioned side of belt? Mine seems to need to go over one more tooth but it doesn't seem possible. Is there a special way of doing this, as i'm worried that ther will be too much slack on the non tensioned side of belt if I install it like this. Thanks your help is greatly appreciated! Regards, Karl
If you've got all the relevant pulleys pinned and crank locked it should fit straight on with no slack on inj pump side. Check your new belt has the correct number of teeth to match the old belt, also check that the idler and tensioner pulleys are in the correct locations, the earlier engines often used same size tens and idlers but later units the idler is larger than the tensioner pulley.
@@davesshed1488 Hi Dave, thanks for your reply! The pins are in place, one bolt locking cam through bell housing and the other one ( 5mm drill bit) I've put the idler pulley back on but its just hand tight, the tensioner pulley ive left it off for the time being to make it easier to get the belt in place, as per your video. Both pulleys are the same diameter and same as old ones and there are 153 teeth as per old belt. When I connect the belt around the crank shaft, it seems loose like in your video 7:30 mins into the vid. But later in the vid it was nice and taught, so was wondering what you did to get it tight? As mine is doing the same its too loose the teeth of the belt needs to go into the next grove but the teeth of the belt is just lining up with the teeth of the crank shaft, just needs to go that little bit more to fit into the grove of the crank shaft. Not sure what you did to tighten yours up, as it was originally loose. Is there a way of moving belt tooth into the next grove on the crank shaft? Thanks for your help! Regards, Karl
@@davesshed1488 Hi Dave, thanks for your reply! I've managed to do it and belt is tight. I realized that the timing drill bit I used to lock out was still in place but skew-whiff. I remembered that it was straight before, so I managed to turn it back to straight position which gave me the tension i needed on the belt. Now going to torque everything up in awhile, then will turn crank two turns by hand as per your vid to check everything is free before starting up. Thanks Dave for all your help! I couldn't have done this without your great knowledge. Kind regards, Karl
I am gonne change the belt monday on a fiat 2.5td from 1998. I have the locking kit: 3 pins and half moon for the tensioner. Where do i put the pin for the crankshaft?
Crank pin goes into a hole in the bellgousing and engages with the flywheel. If you watch the vid labelled " cambelt replacement on 1995 fiat Ducato 2.5 turbo diesel engine" it is detailed at about 11.00 minutes in.
Hi again. There is no dedicated filler point on Ducato gearboxes, you refill by removing the reverse light switch or through the breather point on too of the box. I believe the oil grade should be ep80/90.
dayco belts and gates belts have a date numbers on the belt do not buy old stock on dayco belts theres an 8 digit code first 2 numbers indicate the year manufactured
Ok so here's the thing.we drove 6hours to fit the new cambelt a d tensioner.allgood drove it nearly to our destination.unfortunately the tensioner nut came loose.even though I tightened it to the point of cracking the cambelt cover.this broke the tensioner bearing bracket and put a nasty grove on the spine of the $200 dollar cambelt.what did I do wrong?also I should mention the cambelt covers are plastic
I don't know how you cracked the cover by tightening the tensioner securing nut, the stepped washers should ensure that no clamping pressure is applied to the cover so unless you refitted the washers wrongly I don't know what happened. It sounds like you've been lucky in avoiding major engine damage.
Il y a du avoir un problème !!! A la fin il ouvre la porte il a ces gants ok ? En l'espace de 1sc il n a plus ces gants ont ne le vois même pas les retirés ...donc la vidéo a été couper suite certainement a un problème de calage et du reste à peine 1 tour moteur a été fait avec la clef sur la poulie ...
What a great couple of videos, gave me the confidence to give it ago on our motor home.
All went well and saved me a few pounds. Thank you👍
Thank You Dave! Just started to change the belt for my 2004 2.8 Hdi Boxer. You covered this model also. Really nice video.
Just make sure to check the teeth count is the same as the old belt.
Fantastic video,just purchased a Bessacar on this chassis and trying to find info on this procedure
is so hard to find, KEEP UP THE GREAT CONTENT
MANY THANKS
Thanks for the kind words, you will have a lot of fun with your motorhome I'm sure.
Thank you very much for this information video - trying this out on the 2.8
Great, it took me a lot to get this information... I'm assembling a 2.8 master and this part of the tensioner was disassembled, all the videos show the synchronization but not these details, thanks from Cordoba, Argentina
Thanks to you I managed to do it by myself great!
Great - Thanks - Really useful - Love the mention of required spanner size as the job progresses
Thanks for the information!! It was really helpful
Hi Dave, thanks for the great videos! I noticed that you used 2 timing pins but I only saw 1 pin being used in the part 1 vid. Please could you show where both the timing pins go. I'm just a bit unsure where they go?
My motor is the 1995 Fiat Ducato 2.5 diesel mk 2 engine. It looks similar to the one you worked on in this video.
Thanks very much for your help Dave!
Greatly appreciated!
If you watch the first part of this series of two videos you will see where the other locking pin goes, its for the injection pump and when the cam and crank are in their correct positions there is a hole in one spoke of the injection pump pulley that will line up with a hole behind it, this is the location for the timing pin.
@@davesshed1488 Hi Dave thank you for the reply! I think I've found them!!
As I faced the front of the engine I assumed everything was on the left side, where the cam belt is...lol, but have now locked the crank on the bell housing on right side of my engine.
I think I have found the hole in one spoke of the timing pulley to lock the inj pump timing. Only problem is this hole seems smaller in diameter than the bell housing hole, so I used a small allen key to go into the hole but it doesn't seem to go in that far but maybe this hole isn't that deep?
Also do you think I would get away with using this to lock timing or a small screwdriver etc. Or would I need to buy a proper timing lock out pin? Thanks I greatly appreciate your help!
@@karllee4832 the injection pump locking pin is 5mm dia, if you don't have the locking pin set use a 5mm drill bit .
@@davesshed1488 OK thanks so much Dave, will do! Do you recommend any timing belt kits or are they all about the same quality?
@@karllee4832 I only use either genuine fiat supplied or INA kits.
Great video, will attempt with a bit more confidence now, on my ducato, it's the same year and engine as the one your working on, do you have any more videos for this model. I need to replace outer CV boot.thanks
Cheers for the video, i have to do the 2.8 version next week. looks fairly straight forward
Yes the 2.8 is exactly the same as this, just check the number of teeth on the new belt against the old and check the tensioner and idler pulleys are the correct size. If it's a 2.8 idtd then you need to lock the injector pump, if it's a jtd then you don't need to.
@@davesshed1488 Hi Dave my plan is take the belt off first before getting the new one, and measuring the pulley's also, thanks for your repy and putting the video up
@@no1conrod I may have misled with my last comment about the 2.8 being identical. It is with one exception, the idtd version you can leave the top engine mounting in situ but if it's the jtd version then you need to remove the top engine mounting to get the belt cover off.
@@davesshed1488 Hi Dave i'm not sure which engine that the van has until i turn up in the morning i'll be taking trolly jack and axle stands so should have most cases covered thanks again for the information
instablaster.
Thank you so much Dave.i managed to put cambelt back on and time it.i still need to get a cambelt kit next week but looks like hard to get here in nz.the old one walks off.do you think I will have to get a new cam pulley as half the guide has broken off?and is the guide necessary. Thanks
I'd say yes if you can get a cam pulley change it. Does it start and run now you've retimed it?
@@davesshed1488 yes it runs great. So relieved,the pump jumped about 3 teeth
@@tucka1234 you are one lucky chap, time to buy a lotto ticket i reckon, good luck with getting the parts you need.
I still don't really know what caused it.maybe double clutching?as scraunches goin into second
@@tucka1234 I wouldn't have thought that likely to be honest, more likely that the tensioner and idler pulleys are worn causing the belt to go a bit slack.
Dave, great video, helped me realise as an amateur DIYer I can’t do my cam belt on my Fiat Ducato MH 2019 face lift model. It’s not due for another year, but I was wondering if you do jobs for people. I don’t trust garages in general as my experience is they don’t have a clue and usually brake something.
Hi Jon, yes I run my own small business specialising in motorhomes. Dave Newell leisure vehicle services in Telford, 01952 587702
Thanks for a great couple of videos, very informative. I want to change the timing belt on a 1994 Hymer but can I just check if you know please - is this Engine 8140.27? Access looks more tricky on mine but if it's the same engine I am confident that I can do this job myself having watched your videos. Thanks again!
Thanks for the kind words, to be honest I really can't recall the engine designation.
No problem, thanks for your reply. I'll poke my head under the front over the weekend and have a look - if it looks the same I'll go for it.
Today I was able to disassemble everything and I am at the point where I must lock the flywheel with campulley, injection pulley and engine shaft in correct position.
I moved a sign on the cam pulley to a mark on the engine top.
In that position and after two engine turns I can't find the notch on the flywheel to insert the pin. There is a hole on the gear side similar to the one you inserted the 8 mil pin. In my case there are two bolts close to that hole.
Anyway with camshaft pulley in correct position 8 mil pin don't lock the flywheel.... Where am I wrong?
I forgot to ask about the hydraulic or spring loaded tensioner.do these wear out ?
Its a spring loaded unit, they don't really wear out as once you've installed and tensioned the belt you lock the tensioner pulley and the spring unit does nothing further, they do sieze up though so its worth changing it when you do the belt, most belt and pulley kits seem to include the tensioner spring unit.
@@davesshed1488 cool thank you dave
Hi Dave, is there a special way of getting the alternator belt on, or is it a matter of brute force and using something to lever it on to the wheels? thanks,
Regards,
Karl
You can either slacken the alternator adjustment off or the way I do it is put the belt on the alt and coolant pulleys then fit the crank pulley, it can be a bit tight but as long as the belt is the same size as the old one it should fit.
@@davesshed1488 Hi Dave, thank you so much for your advice I've now got the alternator belt on and I've rotated the crank about 3 times and it seems ok...fingers crossed!!..lol
Only problem is I couldn't get the torque tool on the tensioner pulley, as it hits the side of the motor, cant get any ratchet on it. so I tightened it by spanner as much as I can, should that be ok?
Cheers Dave,
best regards.
Karl
@@karlpresley Yes that should be fine bud.
Hi Dave!
Do you have the measurements on the tension collar? ("Hole diameter" and hight)
Didn't get any in my kit.
Best regards
Krille
Sorry I don't have any measurements for any specific components.
Hey Krille, can you tell me which size the pins for the fuel pump have? The one for the fly wheel is m8 as i understood dave. I have seen a video where somebody used a vise grip insteady of daves tool for the tensioner pully... maybe that helps you. Best regards erik
Hi thank you for the really well done video. Today they asked me 800Euros to do the cambelt replacement, I think I'll do it by myself, I already did it a couple of times on my multipla 1.9 MJT (no need to get the high pressure in synk)
Why did't you change the water pump? Usually when you replace cambelt it's nice to change water pump at the same time.
Thanks again
I don't change the coolant pump on these engines because it isn't driven from the cambelt.
@@davesshed1488 So it can be changed in a second time if needed without disassemble the timing belt again?
@karllee4832 Hi Dave, I've also got too much slack on the belt on the crank pulley, what did you do to move the belt over the teeth, to get it nice and taught on the non tensioned side of belt? Mine seems to need to go over one more tooth but it doesn't seem possible. Is there a special way of doing this, as i'm worried that ther will be too much slack on the non tensioned side of belt if I install it like this. Thanks your help is greatly appreciated! Regards,
Karl
If you've got all the relevant pulleys pinned and crank locked it should fit straight on with no slack on inj pump side. Check your new belt has the correct number of teeth to match the old belt, also check that the idler and tensioner pulleys are in the correct locations, the earlier engines often used same size tens and idlers but later units the idler is larger than the tensioner pulley.
@@davesshed1488 Hi Dave, thanks for your reply! The pins are in place, one bolt locking cam through bell housing and the other one ( 5mm drill bit) I've put the idler pulley back on but its just hand tight, the tensioner pulley ive left it off for the time being to make it easier to get the belt in place, as per your video. Both pulleys are the same diameter and same as old ones and there are 153 teeth as per old belt.
When I connect the belt around the crank shaft, it seems loose like in your video 7:30 mins into the vid.
But later in the vid it was nice and taught, so was wondering what you did to get it tight? As mine is doing the same its too loose the teeth of the belt needs to go into the next grove but the teeth of the belt is just lining up with the teeth of the crank shaft, just needs to go that little bit more to fit into the grove of the crank shaft. Not sure what you did to tighten yours up, as it was originally loose. Is there a way of moving belt tooth into the next grove on the crank shaft?
Thanks for your help!
Regards,
Karl
@@karlpresley I'm sorry but I really don't know the answer for you, without seeing the vehicle it's impossible to say.
@@davesshed1488 Hi Dave, thanks for your reply! I've managed to do it and belt is tight.
I realized that the timing drill bit I used to lock out was still in place but skew-whiff. I remembered that it was straight before, so I managed to turn it back to straight position which gave me the tension i needed on the belt. Now going to torque everything up in awhile, then will turn crank two turns by hand as per your vid to check everything is free before starting up.
Thanks Dave for all your help! I couldn't have done this without your great knowledge.
Kind regards,
Karl
Does the fuel pump pulley need timed or is it just the cam and crank that need to stay synchronised?
The pump is timed on this engine so yes it needs to be pinned before you remove the belt.
I am gonne change the belt monday on a fiat 2.5td from 1998. I have the locking kit: 3 pins and half moon for the tensioner. Where do i put the pin for the crankshaft?
Crank pin goes into a hole in the bellgousing and engages with the flywheel. If you watch the vid labelled " cambelt replacement on 1995 fiat Ducato 2.5 turbo diesel engine" it is detailed at about 11.00 minutes in.
@@davesshed1488 oke thank you very much for showing this content and youre knowledge! Greets from the Netherlands!
Hi. do you have the measurement for the fuel pump pin? i´m looking into changing mine before the vacation, but my kit has not arrived yet..
@@crilleolsen i guess you can use a 8mm drill
@@crilleolsen the injection pump locking pin is 5mm dia.
Hi Dave i was wondering where the filler is on the gearbox and what gear oil i should use?
Hi again. There is no dedicated filler point on Ducato gearboxes, you refill by removing the reverse light switch or through the breather point on too of the box. I believe the oil grade should be ep80/90.
@@davesshed1488 thank you Dave I also wondered if it should be synthetic or mineral?
@@tucka1234 You can use either mineral or synthetic, my preference is for synthetic.
@@davesshed1488 thank you Dave.will go with synthetic
Very helpful..Thanks very much.
Sei molto bravo
dayco belts and gates belts have a date numbers on the belt do not buy old stock on dayco belts theres an 8 digit code first 2 numbers indicate the year manufactured
Useful information, thanks.
Ok so here's the thing.we drove 6hours to fit the new cambelt a d tensioner.allgood drove it nearly to our destination.unfortunately the tensioner nut came loose.even though I tightened it to the point of cracking the cambelt cover.this broke the tensioner bearing bracket and put a nasty grove on the spine of the $200 dollar cambelt.what did I do wrong?also I should mention the cambelt covers are plastic
I don't know how you cracked the cover by tightening the tensioner securing nut, the stepped washers should ensure that no clamping pressure is applied to the cover so unless you refitted the washers wrongly I don't know what happened. It sounds like you've been lucky in avoiding major engine damage.
@@davesshed1488 Ahhhhhh that's sounds like what happened.thanks again Dave,I'll try and find a diagram of how they are fitted.
Il y a du avoir un problème !!!
A la fin il ouvre la porte il a ces gants ok ?
En l'espace de 1sc il n a plus ces gants ont ne le vois même pas les retirés ...donc la vidéo a été couper suite certainement a un problème de calage et du reste à peine 1 tour moteur a été fait avec la clef sur la poulie ...
My apologies but I don't speak French so have absolutely no idea what you have commented.
I read the title as scambelt.
🤣🤣🤣