This is great. I have a load of dings to conceal on a Yammy SG2000. Many thanks for the timely video- much better than others I've watched. The one reservation I have is that of a "frosty" reaction of the CA with the guitar's finish. Someone that I also respect suggested "Satellite City Hot Stuff Special T" which I believe is a thick CA, and he wrote that it doesn't react with guitar finishes. I can't get my head around the despatch cost "Across The Pond" though!
I don't remember ever having CA have a cloudy reaction with finish. But I typically use lacquer to drop fill lacquer finishes. I have had CA cloud, turn white or even boil after using accelerator. I did not use any accelerator on this job. Just add a drop of CA every night in the shop. Thanks Steve, appreciated brother.
This is a nice video thank you! Also I wanted to ask what if the guitar has a line crack near the neck but the wood isn't broken only the glazed polish shiny layer? How can that be fixed? Many thanks again 🙏🏻
Thanks for the comment. Water thin CA glue is good for those finish cracks. You can tape off the area around the crack with vinyl tape, electrical tape. But there will still be glue left on the surface that will need to be sanded off and polished. The thin glue should wick right into the crack and make it disappear.
@@Metalpazallteway You can razor blade scrape lumps of CA glue off. Tape the corners of the blade so it doesn't scratch the finish. That gets you within .005 of the finish. You can sand the rest of the way. Start with 600 just to flush it out then 800, 1000, 1500. Then polish. This is a very complicated process to describe in YT comments.
@@jonahguitarguy That makes sense theoretically. I just can't get my head past the taping the blade portion, is that before the scraping and how would that work. Also CA glue stands for?
@@Metalpazallteway CA is super glue. Taping the corners/ ends of a razor keeps the corners from digging into the finish. And the tape is about .005 of an inch. I have videos that show the entire process in detail. I just watched 1.06 minutes into the video where I show the razor blade with tape on the corners and explain it.
Excellent video...Question - if you need to color the ding to match existing.... would you mix the dye/coloring into the superglue at the same time...or wait until the dye/coloring is dry on the repair and then apply the clear glue over that? Thanks!
Thanks for your question. GluBoost brand CA has a line of dyes that mix in their products. I can’t say for sure if they work with other brands of CA. I think either method will give good results. Do a test. Stains tend to darken under finish. So if you stain then finish you may need to start with a lighter color.
What's the difference between this method (not being rude) and wet sanding it with the same grit ? Does it get the same results? I've got some minor scratches on my vintage Hofners that I'd like to get back to close to original finish. This is very cool and I enjoyed your tenacity and candor in repairing the guitar. Amazing work mate.
I had to watch the video since it's three years old. Wet or dry paper is fine. Start with 1500 grit and see if that will take out the scratches. If not move down to 1200 or 1000. Once the problem scratches are out move back up in the grits. Finish with 2000 then polish. Stay away from the edges.
Thanks zbaby, the accelerator is not necessary. But it sure speeds up the precess. A lot of CA glues react badly to accelerator and boil and or turn white. So I will let it set a while to be safe. Thanks for watching!
@@jonahguitarguy Understood it is the finish... I have only seen it uses on metal. Interesting that you can't get it shipped to a California address on Amazon - apparently another thing this nutjob state has banned,
That sandpaper shouldn’t see the light of day until the chip depth is leveled to surrounding finish on guitar using careful razor blade scraping. Sanding is like walking the plank. Sooner or later, you’ll go too far - so use sparingly.
After I'm done adding the simichrome and done with 2000 grit - is there anything else I need to do? Anything to 'seal' it, or is it good as-is? Thanks!
What do you recommend for a Bonnie pink finish? I have a ding on the bottom right side of the corner of the body that's less than the size of a nail and I'm planning on selling the guitar soon? Any advice?
I far as I know Bonnie pink is just a PRS color name. The top coat would be the same as the rest of them. So I would use the same method described in the video. If you haven't done this sort of thing before you really could do some damage if you sand thru the finish. You might be ahead of the game just taking the deduct on that little bit of damage.
PRS finishes are 2K polyurethane. But yes you can drop fill nitro lacquer with CA. You could also drop fill lacquer with lacquer but it shrinks back a lot and takes many fills. Edit to add, it is easier to sand through on nitro lacquer so be very careful.
Yes any super glue should be fine. I myself use a higher grade than say Crazy Glue. I would avoid what is considered thin or water thin. Medium would be best. Titebond makes a good super glue.
Thank you so much. I sell $150,000 pianos and they always get scratched and dinged. With your system it looks EZ to repair. Not familiar with simichrome
Thanks for watching Roger. if you're not in a woke State you can still buy semichrome at auto parts stores. I can't get it in CA. And other States can't ship it here.
Looks flawless Dane, nice work
Thanks much AD!
Thanks for taking the time & trouble to do the video - it's great to learn from folks who have the experience :-)
Thanks for taking the time to comment Bristol. Glad the video was helpful for you.
This is great. I have a load of dings to conceal on a Yammy SG2000. Many thanks for the timely video- much better than others I've watched. The one reservation I have is that of a "frosty" reaction of the CA with the guitar's finish. Someone that I also respect suggested "Satellite City Hot Stuff Special T" which I believe is a thick CA, and he wrote that it doesn't react with guitar finishes. I can't get my head around the despatch cost "Across The Pond" though!
I don't remember ever having CA have a cloudy reaction with finish. But I typically use lacquer to drop fill lacquer finishes. I have had CA cloud, turn white or even boil after using accelerator. I did not use any accelerator on this job. Just add a drop of CA every night in the shop.
Thanks Steve, appreciated brother.
When Dan did the sandpaper trick he alternates direction of each swipe of the sandpaper so there isn't sandpaper scratches in one direction.
Good idea!
the semi-chrome does it every time! great work mang!
Miracle suave as you say. Thanks Randy.
Is the semichrome used here the standard one for metal and aluminum surface ?
Great job Dane!!!!!!)))
Thank you very much incredibly helpful!
You are very welcome! Thanks for taking a look.
Nice job Dane, came out great. I'll have to try some semi chrome although it's not cheap over here 😮
Thanks Patrick, I think other metal polish would do the trick as well. I also use Nano polish which is straight up plastic polish.
Nice class in ding repair!
Thanks Peter, appreciate it.
I was watching, thinking, go to 2000 before the polish. So you did. Great minds think alike. 😎
Some kind of pre-cognition going on there. Yeah buddy!
This is a nice video thank you! Also I wanted to ask what if the guitar has a line crack near the neck but the wood isn't broken only the glazed polish shiny layer? How can that be fixed? Many thanks again 🙏🏻
Thanks for the comment. Water thin CA glue is good for those finish cracks. You can tape off the area around the crack with vinyl tape, electrical tape. But there will still be glue left on the surface that will need to be sanded off and polished. The thin glue should wick right into the crack and make it disappear.
@@jonahguitarguy Wonderful thank you. Also if there are still visible markings do I sand? And with what materials so it won't tarnish? Thanks again
@@Metalpazallteway You can razor blade scrape lumps of CA glue off. Tape the corners of the blade so it doesn't scratch the finish. That gets you within .005 of the finish. You can sand the rest of the way. Start with 600 just to flush it out then 800, 1000, 1500. Then polish. This is a very complicated process to describe in YT comments.
@@jonahguitarguy That makes sense theoretically. I just can't get my head past the taping the blade portion, is that before the scraping and how would that work. Also CA glue stands for?
@@Metalpazallteway CA is super glue. Taping the corners/ ends of a razor keeps the corners from digging into the finish. And the tape is about .005 of an inch. I have videos that show the entire process in detail. I just watched 1.06 minutes into the video where I show the razor blade with tape on the corners and explain it.
Excellent video...Question - if you need to color the ding to match existing.... would you mix the dye/coloring into the superglue at the same time...or wait until the dye/coloring is dry on the repair and then apply the clear glue over that? Thanks!
Thanks for your question. GluBoost brand CA has a line of dyes that mix in their products. I can’t say for sure if they work with other brands of CA. I think either method will give good results. Do a test. Stains tend to darken under finish. So if you stain then finish you may need to start with a lighter color.
@@jonahguitarguy Thanks for prompt response. Its a Poly finish in white. I hate white as their are so many shades to try to match...LOL!
@@jonahguitarguy One more question....what compound/product are using for the final polishing? Thanks!
@@Randy-ul5hy Semichrome polish. It’s a metal polish but it works fantastic for plastic.
What's the difference between this method (not being rude) and wet sanding it with the same grit ? Does it get the same results? I've got some minor scratches on my vintage Hofners that I'd like to get back to close to original finish. This is very cool and I enjoyed your tenacity and candor in repairing the guitar. Amazing work mate.
I had to watch the video since it's three years old. Wet or dry paper is fine. Start with 1500 grit and see if that will take out the scratches. If not move down to 1200 or 1000. Once the problem scratches are out move back up in the grits. Finish with 2000 then polish. Stay away from the edges.
@@jonahguitarguy Thank you so very much ! I appreciate the feedback.
Excellent. Is the dryer accelerator necessary?
Thanks zbaby, the accelerator is not necessary. But it sure speeds up the precess. A lot of CA glues react badly to accelerator and boil and or turn white. So I will let it set a while to be safe. Thanks for watching!
I have never thought to use Simichrome on wood...only on metal. Could you use any automotive buffing compound like Meguiars?
Not actually on wood but on the finish. You might be able to Meguires but I I haven't used it.
@@jonahguitarguy Understood it is the finish... I have only seen it uses on metal. Interesting that you can't get it shipped to a California address on Amazon - apparently another thing this nutjob state has banned,
@@jonahguitarguy Found another vendor that seems to not be paying attention to the CA ban...I will see if it arrives. Thanks for the great video!
@@DanielBobke yep the list keeps getting longer!
@@DanielBobke let me know if you get it and which vendor please.
That sandpaper shouldn’t see the light of day until the chip depth is leveled to surrounding finish on guitar using careful razor blade scraping. Sanding is like walking the plank. Sooner or later, you’ll go too far - so use sparingly.
After I'm done adding the simichrome and done with 2000 grit - is there anything else I need to do? Anything to 'seal' it, or is it good as-is? Thanks!
The Semichrome polish is enough. You could clean and polish the entire body.
What do you recommend for a Bonnie pink finish? I have a ding on the bottom right side of the corner of the body that's less than the size of a nail and I'm planning on selling the guitar soon? Any advice?
I far as I know Bonnie pink is just a PRS color name. The top coat would be the same as the rest of them. So I would use the same method described in the video. If you haven't done this sort of thing before you really could do some damage if you sand thru the finish. You might be ahead of the game just taking the deduct on that little bit of damage.
Prs finishes aren’t nitro lac are they? Does this work on nitro lacquer?
PRS finishes are 2K polyurethane. But yes you can drop fill nitro lacquer with CA. You could also drop fill lacquer with lacquer but it shrinks back a lot and takes many fills. Edit to add, it is easier to sand through on nitro lacquer so be very careful.
Any super glue will work?
Yes any super glue should be fine. I myself use a higher grade than say Crazy Glue. I would avoid what is considered thin or water thin. Medium would be best. Titebond makes a good super glue.
Thank you so much. I sell $150,000 pianos and they always get scratched and dinged. With your system it looks EZ to repair. Not familiar with simichrome
Thanks for watching Roger. if you're not in a woke State you can still buy semichrome at auto parts stores. I can't get it in CA. And other States can't ship it here.
Thanks for watching the video. Here's a link to a drop fill method with a safety net. th-cam.com/video/-PPPdGZ-OKE/w-d-xo.html
Hey perfect for a relic......lol ty man.....just kidding other commenters
Anti-relic for sure.
Trying to polish with a paper towel is a dead end. You’re making more scratches instead of removing them.
Not the case with Viva. There are many guitar finishers who agree about this.