Be EXTREMELY careful using accelerator on thin viscosity super glue. Often glue that thin will foam when using accelerator. Make sure you test out the glue you are using first on a scrap piece! Do not use a gel superglue either, thinking it will help with building up layers. It will not respond well to accelerator, and will not seamlessly blend in with poly. Awesome video though, I would have never thought to wick thin glue under the cracks, I would have scraped off the cracks. Your way is way more efficient, and preserves a lot more of the finish.
Thank you for that. Also this is Glu-boost which is not a gel, designed to blend and has a non-blushing accelerator. It is incredible stuff. Not your typical super glue by any means.
Good job! Very well done, and excellent final result. 🙂Patience is key with repairs like this. To anyone else trying this: Since Superglue dries so fast, be careful using a paper towel to wipe excess glue. Often, it will stick to the glue in the blink of an eye. Trust me. You don't want that.
Wow ! Incredible result , I have a ding on my Charvel DK just like this ,same exact spot ,guitar slipped off a chair onto a hardwood floor , although it’s not nitro, it’s poly , I’m going to give this a try , thanks and subscribed 👍
this is art! very satisfying watch. My guitar is very old, I'm afraid it won't take this much sanding/polishing, should I apply some Lacquer after the repair, before the sanding/polishing?
Thanks. Structurally speaking, if there is damage, then yes I would apply lacquer after the repair. Though from the sounds of things you may have a really old thin finish. If you are attempting to spray or apply lacquer in one spot, it will probably stand out even more. Perhaps just leaving it may be the best course of action.
Very helpful, well done video! I have a 1980 Yamaha acoustic guitar that has a very small spot on the top, where the finish wore through to the wood grain. You cannot really see it. I’m more concerned with protecting the wood, than addressing a cosmetic issue. Thinking whether I should simply put a drop of lacquer on the spot, and gently rub it into the grain. Or should I try a drop of this GluBoost (in your affiliate link). I notice there are 3 versions: Fill n' Finish Pro Formula, Fill n' Finish Thin, and Fill n' Finish Ultra Thin. Which one did you use, or recommend? In my case, the goal is not to fix a visual blemish, since it is hardly noticeable unless you run your fingers over it. Rather I simply want to seal and protect the bare spruce wood. Thanks for such a thorough video! Definitely worth a like and a subscribe!
Thank you so much. Appreciate that. They would all work, the different glues are just how thick it flows. The only thing about your guitar is if 80s yamahas were lacquer or polyurethane. Gluboost would be safer if you don't know.
@ UPDATE: I tried GluBoost, total disaster! I returned the product, and ended up using nail polish remover to get rid of this awful mess. Eventually applied matching stain, instead, to protect the wood.
Would love to see a repair like this for KLOS Guitars full sized 2018 Hybrid Deluxe model that is worn from use - it’s never ever been dropped. The hybrid model I own has a wood neck without any composite, except for reinforcement with stiffening rods on both side of the truss rod. - I have a clear coat lacquer chip on the side of the wood neck. The blank paint underneath is not chipped. - A little black paint and clear coat chipped away from the truss rod opening in the headstock, which is odd considering I’ve never needed to adjust it. - I also have wearing lacquer that is a bit pitted on the bidirectional CF body. Any advice? I am guessing the neck is a similar process as what’s shown in your video, but what about lacquer chips on a CF body? And when the clear coat is pitted instead of a little chipped? And when black paint is involved? Tyvm!
I would suggest a similar approach for the neck and pitting if it's clear. On the body, it's a matter of checking how it's finished. I jumped on the website (really awesome guitar!), but it doesn't say. Most of the time, CF is finished in lacquer or UV Poly like Taylor. Im guessing it should more than likely take this finish approach as well.
Thanks! And yes, this type of repair works on most finishes. Of course, most dings and chips are small enough to get away with it. If it was a larger damaged area, I would probably use the same finish to help with visibility.
If it is a nitro finish, you are better off drop filling with nitrocellulose lacquer. New nitro will burn into old lacquer, so it will make a perfect blend. You can thin the drop fill nitro with acetone. If you can only get nitro in a spray can, you can just spray it into a jar, to get a usable liquid.
Outstanding job!!! I happened to have a dent on my electric guitar top, and i just bought the guitar🥲 My guitar is a maple top dyed (I believe its thin venier) and lacquered. Should i remove the lacquer inside the dent or just apply superglue like you did?
Brilliant video. I recently got a prs and cracked the finish when it bumped into a piano. Could I use a similar method with just low viscosity super glue to fill in the crack? (The crack is very small but it still bothers me slightly)
As far as adhesion, yeah probably. I've never used it. As far as clarity and results, I doubt it. Glu boost is just incredible stuff when it comes to finish work.
@@strumwoodguitars I see. I am asking because I am looking to fix a nasty dent on a semi hollow of mine but unfortunately they don't sell gluboost anywhere in Greece. Titebond, however, is easy to come by.
@NickVanCash Hmm, well, you should test the titebond on a scrap piece first. See if you like the results. A super glue in general will work similarly. It may just finish a bit cloudy due to a chemical reaction of the glue and finish of your guitar. If you don't mind and can remember, please update me on the results. I'm curious to know how it works for you.
How did you make sure that the razorblade didn't cut into the rest of the finish as you were leveling the bump out? I'm afraid to do just that on my guitar for that reason. The guitar edge is a tricky spot to work on because of the curved surface.
Experience. You sort of just get a feel for it. Just go slow and light pressure if you are worried. I watch the factory tours of the workers on scraping binding and THAT is some confidence.
Patience. Purple isn't an easy colour to match. If its a smaller paint chip, you may better succeed with car paint touch-up sticks. You can get them from your local automotive store. But you can also add tints to clear lacquer if you are wanting to attempt mixing. But patience to try different mixes to find the right shade, after the colour is down, you could follow the steps shown here. Hoping for great results for ya!
I chiped my strat and it uses the finish "Olympic White Nitrocellulose" and I wanted to know how I fix it or what to do because I can't find this paint anywhere..
Often, these colors start as pigment added to lacquer. I've found that the car paints (as in Napa) are generally a very close match for small drop fills.
So if that's a nitro lacquer, why with a spot that large, do a proper lacquer drop? The thin set in the cracks is a acceptable but as a professional finisher, a lacquer drop would have been the proper method. But as a quick, cheap fix on a polly finish this works!
One of the nicest jobs I have seen 👍
Thank you so much!
That turned out extremely Well!
Yeah I'm happy with it. Thanks!
Be EXTREMELY careful using accelerator on thin viscosity super glue. Often glue that thin will foam when using accelerator. Make sure you test out the glue you are using first on a scrap piece! Do not use a gel superglue either, thinking it will help with building up layers. It will not respond well to accelerator, and will not seamlessly blend in with poly.
Awesome video though, I would have never thought to wick thin glue under the cracks, I would have scraped off the cracks. Your way is way more efficient, and preserves a lot more of the finish.
Thank you for that. Also this is Glu-boost which is not a gel, designed to blend and has a non-blushing accelerator. It is incredible stuff. Not your typical super glue by any means.
@@strumwoodguitarswhy didn't you say all that during the video?
Nicely done and very educational!
Thank you kindly!
Gorgeous work!
Absolutely gorgeous! Your video really inspires me to do the same repair on my guitar with confidence . Thank you so much!
Awesome thank you! Just take your time. Let me know how it goes.
Wow! Nice job.
Good job! Very well done, and excellent final result. 🙂Patience is key with repairs like this.
To anyone else trying this: Since Superglue dries so fast, be careful using a paper towel to wipe excess glue. Often, it will stick to the glue in the blink of an eye. Trust me. You don't want that.
Thanks. You are correct with wiping. I generally dab or just soak up the excess by holding papertowel near the working spot.
Thank you for making this, I have this exact repair to do to an acoustic!
Thanks for saying that. Hope it went well!
Superb job...Gonna do this on my prs cu24.
Has quite a few edge chips and two decent dings on the 10 top.
Thank you.
Thanks, Have fun. Ding repairs are quite satisfying.
Wow ! Incredible result , I have a ding on my Charvel DK just like this ,same exact spot ,guitar slipped off a chair onto a hardwood floor , although it’s not nitro, it’s poly , I’m going to give this a try , thanks and subscribed 👍
Always unfortunate, but fixable. Thanks so much!
Excellent work!
Thank you so much.
Great video, and nice work!
Thankyou for your kind words!
Nicely done, mr wizard
Thank you! And for my next trick...
fabulous job
Thank you.
this is art! very satisfying watch. My guitar is very old, I'm afraid it won't take this much sanding/polishing, should I apply some Lacquer after the repair, before the sanding/polishing?
Thanks. Structurally speaking, if there is damage, then yes I would apply lacquer after the repair. Though from the sounds of things you may have a really old thin finish. If you are attempting to spray or apply lacquer in one spot, it will probably stand out even more. Perhaps just leaving it may be the best course of action.
Wow! Great job
Thanks!
Wow, great job.
Thank you so much.
OMG 🤩🤩 that was satisfying 🤩🤩 I hope I can come somewhere close to that result 🥶. What products did you use?
Thanks. It was all Glu-boost. Designed specifically for this purpose.
Beautiful work! Where is your business?
Thank you. I'm located outside Vancouver, Canada.
Fantastic beautiful job!
Thank you. Appreciate that.
Good work, friend.
Thank you
Nice job!
Thank you! Cheers!
wow amazing job, looks like new! I'm going to try this, thank you!!! :)
Thank you so much! Was trying to go for that. Hope it helps your situation.
Very helpful, well done video! I have a 1980 Yamaha acoustic guitar that has a very small spot on the top, where the finish wore through to the wood grain. You cannot really see it. I’m more concerned with protecting the wood, than addressing a cosmetic issue.
Thinking whether I should simply put a drop of lacquer on the spot, and gently rub it into the grain. Or should I try a drop of this GluBoost (in your affiliate link). I notice there are 3 versions:
Fill n' Finish Pro Formula, Fill n' Finish Thin, and Fill n' Finish Ultra Thin. Which one did you use, or recommend? In my case, the goal is not to fix a visual blemish, since it is hardly noticeable unless you run your fingers over it. Rather I simply want to seal and protect the bare spruce wood.
Thanks for such a thorough video! Definitely worth a like and a subscribe!
Thank you so much. Appreciate that. They would all work, the different glues are just how thick it flows. The only thing about your guitar is if 80s yamahas were lacquer or polyurethane. Gluboost would be safer if you don't know.
@ UPDATE: I tried GluBoost, total disaster! I returned the product, and ended up using nail polish remover to get rid of this awful mess. Eventually applied matching stain, instead, to protect the wood.
Magical
Ta da. Thanks.
Excelent! 👌
Thanks.
What spray you use after putting the glue on the guitar?
In this, once the glue had set and sanded smooth. Meguiers Polish Compound was used.
Would love to see a repair like this for KLOS Guitars full sized 2018 Hybrid Deluxe model that is worn from use - it’s never ever been dropped. The hybrid model I own has a wood neck without any composite, except for reinforcement with stiffening rods on both side of the truss rod.
- I have a clear coat lacquer chip on the side of the wood neck. The blank paint underneath is not chipped.
- A little black paint and clear coat chipped away from the truss rod opening in the headstock, which is odd considering I’ve never needed to adjust it.
- I also have wearing lacquer that is a bit pitted on the bidirectional CF body.
Any advice? I am guessing the neck is a similar process as what’s shown in your video, but what about lacquer chips on a CF body? And when the clear coat is pitted instead of a little chipped? And when black paint is involved?
Tyvm!
I would suggest a similar approach for the neck and pitting if it's clear. On the body, it's a matter of checking how it's finished. I jumped on the website (really awesome guitar!), but it doesn't say. Most of the time, CF is finished in lacquer or UV Poly like Taylor. Im guessing it should more than likely take this finish approach as well.
Does this also work against chips when I do not want to drop my guitar?
Very nice. Can I ask how much time did it take so I can get an idea of how much my local luthier would ask for that kind of repair ?
I'm not fully sure. A couple hours.
Wow, seamless!
Question: I assume the guitar in the video has a polyurethane finish - does this approach work for lacquer as well?
Thanks! And yes, this type of repair works on most finishes. Of course, most dings and chips are small enough to get away with it. If it was a larger damaged area, I would probably use the same finish to help with visibility.
If it is a nitro finish, you are better off drop filling with nitrocellulose lacquer. New nitro will burn into old lacquer, so it will make a perfect blend. You can thin the drop fill nitro with acetone. If you can only get nitro in a spray can, you can just spray it into a jar, to get a usable liquid.
Outstanding job!!! I happened to have a dent on my electric guitar top, and i just bought the guitar🥲 My guitar is a maple top dyed (I believe its thin venier) and lacquered.
Should i remove the lacquer inside the dent or just apply superglue like you did?
Thank you! Just clean the dent first with some naphtha or lighter fluid and then use the same method.
Great video. How do I polish the guitar up if it has a satin poly finish? Thanks! Using the McGuire’s will leave it with a gloss finish, right?
If the finish is matte, it probably won't come to a high gloss. You may get a touch shinier with the wax but it won't shine as bright.
Do most guitar places offer this kind of repair with seafoam green guitars?
Honestly, not a lot of shops do finish work at all. But of course every shop is different. But if they do, they should do color as well.
@@strumwoodguitars thanks for the info! I'll do research
Brilliant video. I recently got a prs and cracked the finish when it bumped into a piano. Could I use a similar method with just low viscosity super glue to fill in the crack? (The crack is very small but it still bothers me slightly)
Yes, absolutely you should be able to. It's more a time-consuming job.
@@strumwoodguitars Thank you for the help!
Do you think the Titebond Instant Bond glue can be used as a substitute to Gluboost?
As far as adhesion, yeah probably. I've never used it. As far as clarity and results, I doubt it. Glu boost is just incredible stuff when it comes to finish work.
@@strumwoodguitars I see. I am asking because I am looking to fix a nasty dent on a semi hollow of mine but unfortunately they don't sell gluboost anywhere in Greece. Titebond, however, is easy to come by.
@NickVanCash Hmm, well, you should test the titebond on a scrap piece first. See if you like the results. A super glue in general will work similarly. It may just finish a bit cloudy due to a chemical reaction of the glue and finish of your guitar. If you don't mind and can remember, please update me on the results. I'm curious to know how it works for you.
Superb
Thanks!
How did you make sure that the razorblade didn't cut into the rest of the finish as you were leveling the bump out? I'm afraid to do just that on my guitar for that reason. The guitar edge is a tricky spot to work on because of the curved surface.
Experience. You sort of just get a feel for it.
Just go slow and light pressure if you are worried.
I watch the factory tours of the workers on scraping binding and THAT is some confidence.
In need to do that on a purple guitar but the chip has removed the paint so need to create paint match then do all that. Any advice?
Patience. Purple isn't an easy colour to match. If its a smaller paint chip, you may better succeed with car paint touch-up sticks. You can get them from your local automotive store. But you can also add tints to clear lacquer if you are wanting to attempt mixing. But patience to try different mixes to find the right shade, after the colour is down, you could follow the steps shown here. Hoping for great results for ya!
You are a modern day Rembrandt.
Haha. Not so sure about that but thanks.
I chiped my strat and it uses the finish "Olympic White Nitrocellulose" and I wanted to know how I fix it or what to do because I can't find this paint anywhere..
Check with your local Napa store. I'm heading there today- they're supposed to have that color but not all stores carry it. 😮
Often, these colors start as pigment added to lacquer. I've found that the car paints (as in Napa) are generally a very close match for small drop fills.
Reverse relic job
But don't you have to wax that spot regularly like waxing a car if you decide to keep it?
In this case, no. The glue used is designed to cure hard and once buffed, does not dull.
So if that's a nitro lacquer, why with a spot that large, do a proper lacquer drop? The thin set in the cracks is a acceptable but as a professional finisher, a lacquer drop would have been the proper method. But as a quick, cheap fix on a polly finish this works!
Yeah thats valid. Many shops (Including mine) dont have a full booth to spray. Honestly, I would love to spray every time.
Why not to use an actual lacquer rather than super glue?
Here to ask the same question
Now do it with binding 😂
Similar approach. Don't have a video of that one yet.