2009-2017 Chevy Traverse Tansfer case replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- How to remove, and install a transfer case on a Chevrolet Traverse, or Buick Enclave. 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 09 10 12 13 14 15 16 17
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Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Rust Belt Auto assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this video at your own risk. Rust Belt Auto recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
It's easier to slide the transfer case in and you can prevent tearing the o-ring by using 2-m12 x1.75x75mm guide bolts (cut the heads off and chamfer the outer edges) in the top and bottom hole. I appreciate this video. Very informative.
Good idea
I really like your suggestion. I am going to do it that way.
Great video saves a lot of time for sure.
Just so people are aware the GMC Terrain has the same transfer case but is not removed the same way on the awd. You have to remove the rear exhaust manifold and rear motor mount bracket but the rest is the same for bolt location. The Terrain mount is in the middle not on the side like this setup.
I was going too spend 2500$ but watching this guy i spent 0$ to do it my self good look my dude.
@Rust Belt Auto - this is such a great video! I watched it a few times over, then yanked the transfer case out of my 2010 Acadia and replaced it with a different one. Got my Acadia going again. Wish I had a hoist like yours. Keep making vids on the Traverse/Acadia. I might be more of needing them. Thanks!
I really enjoy your vids. I would like to jack up your garage 5 feet so u could put your rack all the way up. But u seem to do very well just the way it is. U have a great sense of humor. I will really watch that o ring when I go back together with mine. Lots of grease or better yet, grey silicon. If I Jack the o-ring, the silicon will save me.
@@billrimmer5596 garages in my area cannot exceed 16 feet.
Thanks for not jibber jabbering on and on aimlessly. My time matters too, so thanks for your succinct dialog and abbreviated time-lapse edits. Great job, so I'll be glad to find your videos in my search and feed for my next unknown surprise project.
Every aspect of these new lifestyles are getting very annoying. I won't do that to people.
@@RustBeltAuto Although I do like to listen to thoughts. I c u r a mountain bike man. I cheat, mine has a motor, but at 74 I get a little slack
You best one I see do it by far. Got the same pb on 2010 cv equinox Ltz v6
You are really showing this Traverse some love...
Maybe if I had a dog, 4 kids, a divorced wife on welfare, a bad leg, a mind brainwashed on Chevrolet's, 5 different kinds of debt, a job that entails getting stuck in rush hour traffic every day both ways, and a favorite pastime that involves watching people playing with balls, and drinking alcohol, then I would show love for a Chevy Traverse.
Oops... Did I say That?
LOL! Tell us how you really feel. The Traverse is almost as bad as an Equinox !
This flat rate dude is solid gold. Emulate his methods and attitide and double your income.
Flat rate is such a misnomer. Designed to unknowingly screw a mechanic, and give them unwanted amounts of stress, and anxiety.
@@RustBeltAuto 47 years wrenching and still going strong in Toronto , Flat Rate Sucks especially if it’s warranty work in a dealership . Tried it once at dealer ship along time ago, the newcomers to a flat rate shop always get screwed for the first few years , never again . Flat rate doesn’t benefit anyone but the garage 💰.
@@timrowe28 flat rate is fine, until these crooks that put you to work figure out what you are doing. Then they look at their pie charts, and change everything in their favor. Stop working for these morons. You don't need them.
@@RustBeltAuto .I stopped long ago working for morons , it was like night and day . Have a great day and thanks .
Excellent video thanks!
Love this video
Brother, to separate the transmission from the engine, it is necessary to remove the 4×4, the transfer, I would like to know why I should change the flywheel or steering wheel, could you help me please?
What about the water pump? Is your shop close to your home? Just found your channel. Real cool stuff. First class editing. The vids really nice nicely!!
Thank you!
I had the High feature 3.6 motor out rebuilding it, I also went through the transfer case replaced a bearing then with the install I was standing over the removed undercarriage which made it a little easier to re install the transfer case in the transmission to not damage the o ring without the engine in the way.
The factory manual suggests getting 2 longer bolts and cutting the heads off and hand screwing them in an upper and a lower bolt hole to use as guide pins to prevent damaging the o ring
, but stupid GM had to make the metric bolts with a 12m x 1.75 pitch, just try finding that at your local hardware store. You will only find 1.00 and 1.25
You are the man being able to install it from underneath with all the work involved to be trusting the new specialty o ring did not get damaged.. every part has to be tracked down, nothing is easy to find.
GM intentionally built these cars to be a major pain to work on, they tell you to even use new flywheel bolts because they stretch they say and are good for one use which sucks because every place that is hard to get to, they put fear in you to change the bolts in those locations. Head Bolts, Rod bolts and Flywheel (flex plate) bolts, which really added to the cost of rebuilding the motor.
I am sticking with my 68 Corvette with the 327 that is a piece of cake to rebuild. Every damn part for this motor was not in stock at any auto parts stores, My best source was Rock auto with the best prices.
As far as for GM, they suck anymore. Got too greedy and engineered their cars to take so much time and effort fixing , it is cheaper to buy a new one.
If they machined a better chamfer, the seal would not tear. I believe this car is made to support a consumer based economy that continually promotes the buying of goods, and services. Road salt around here is the best idea for that. This car saves the consumer money (vs. something better, like a Toyota), and costs more later. Just like this wonderful debt system everyone seems to like.
Stretch is important, even more than just torque...
@@gwkdad agreed.
@@gwkdad Here is what I found as stupid on GMs part. I have the factory manual, a lot of the bolts are suppose to be torqued and then turned another 90 degrees 120 degrees etc. But one place they must have screw up, it was the large undercarriage bolts, it said torque to 78 foot lbs then turn 90 degrees further, then in another place in the manual it says torque them to 114 foot lbs. So to test my theory I tightened the bolt to 78 ft lbs and turned another 90 degrees then set my torque wrench to 115 ft lbs, as I went to tighten the same bolt it barely moved and my wrench indicated I reached the 115 ft lbs. Gm seems to have intentionally made it where you are more likely to strip threads by complicating the process. My thought is you always make sure your threads are clean, tapped and the bolt is clean then you get the right torque. With their method it feels like you are about to start stripping threads. The funny thing is in their manual they dedicate about 70 pages to instruct you how to repair stripped threads. for main and head bolts . All my life I am use to the feel of tightening a bolt to not over stress the threads I felt safe up to a point before my torque wrench would let me know I reached the torque, with this motor and the need to use a degree wheel I feel I am reaching the brink of stripping threads. In my opinion, their torque then degree method sucks and is just another attempt to deter people from rebuilding one. In this stupid high feature motor what I did with every bolt to make sure they were even is find the torque that was reached after turning to the degree wheel , then setting my wrench to that torque and going back over all the bolts to insure they were even. To me using a degree wheel is not as accurate as a torque wrench because when you let off pressure the degree wheel turns back from the degree you turned it to. My opinion on GM anymore is not good, I own a 68 Vette and a 67 Camaro, now those were well made cars and easy to work on, no throw away bolts needed. Cars anymore are made to scrap. This motor was not fun to rebuild, too many un necessary parts and they have you throw away too many parts saying you must not re use them. If it was my car I would have not replaced it all, but because it was for a friend, I did not want any possible issues from GMs scare tactics. 8 bolts on the flywheel, costing over 4 or more dollars each, was I going to take a chance not replacing them with all the work involved if they failed.... no. It just seemed to me all the labor intensive bolts to replace, GM put a throw away warning on, You can't tell me they the engineers and CEO were not all in a room designing and planning anything that would sell more GM parts or cars. This is what really made me mad. They designed the PCV system to clog. There is a part they call a PCV valve that is not a valve, it is 2 pieces of metal with holes on each end but no valve inside, they have 2 holes on one end the side of a needle and a hole on the other end the size of a toothpick if that big and there is no way even a grade school kid would think those tiny holes would vent a crankcase. But GM was stupid or evil enough to design such a piece of junk. I got rid of that POS and put in a real PCV valve which actually has a valve in it, imagine that a PCV valve that is actually a valve, something GM does not seem to understand because their eyes are full of dollar signs. If they could get away with selling cars without motors, they would probably lie about what a motor is too.
That is a healthy air ratchet u got.
Thank you SO much for this video. It made this so much easier for me. So I have mine torn apart and I think everything is fine with it. I'm worried now the noise was coming from somewhere else; perhaps the transmission (fluid was dark brown, not vibrant red). The passenger side output shaft was dry and full of gunk. The bearing is dirty with thick grease, but appears to turn smoothly and is not loose. Should I replace or repack it anyways?
Get a new one. Not remanufactured.
@@RustBeltAuto Why not remanufactured? Need some detail. I have a reman from rockauto, Zumbrota built i guess. Its hours from going in on the traverse... You recommend going to GM parts and ordering it new?
Good luck.
Soak the exaust bolts with lubricant then hit it with a impact. Using a ratchet is why it broke.
Wow!
My 2011 AWD Traverse just blew the transfercase open. I'm in rustbelt too (S.W. Mich), where are you located? I need this exact thing...
Outer space.
Dk you ha e to remove the transfer case first before yoh can separate the transmission from the engine on this vehicle? Im in the middle of this job right now.
Are you replacing the flywheel the way I did? If I did this job a second time, I would probably remove the t-case.
That would be a Yes,
LOL at the shower and shave bit!
Traverse loves to get you filthy. You've worked on this piece enough that it seems like your dating....
OKAY BYE!
Shouldn't you be shucking corn or something?
Too much rain ruined planting season. I'll be working on the kids club house this weekend. Started up my E350 diesel, think it might need an alternator, how many beer job is that one?
@@BarnStangz I don't know. Don't work on many diesels. My excuse for diesels is they don't fit in my garage.
But it's the same size as the normal van I believe. It is right on top, typical 7.3. I'm going to try to get the belt off and then see what happens. But it is intermittent, only seems to happen once and a while, when I toss the multimeter on the battery while the engine is running, I see good voltage. Maybe a ground is goofy or could the electronics in the alternator be going bad....?
@@BarnStangz you could go to a parts store that does alternator/battery tests in the vehicle. I have a harbor freight load tester that works pretty good for that stuff.
You sure those were 13mm bolts on the mounts? Thats a 3.6 motor?
What else would it be?
@@RustBeltAuto I’ve got 15mm
@@priestsandkings5392 Thank's for sharing.
@@RustBeltAuto thanks for the vid! I had to pull that mount to drop my oil pan
@@priestsandkings5392 ooh my.
Do you use Mitchell 1 or anything like that?
I go to the library if I really need to. They have it there.
The library has Mitchell 1? That's pretty neat. I wonder if mine has it. Didn't know that was a thing.
@@BarnStangz my public library has Mitchell on demand. Probably an addition to public works.
I know our public works department has it, I'll have to check it out. I don't know how comprehensive it is. Are there like modules and stuff like that. Like you have to buy all domestic trash and others are extra you think? I guess I can look on their web site...
Mexican American Taiwanese. Lol🤔🤔🤔🤔. What is that?
A Ford product.
@@RustBeltAuto hell yeah I worded at a ford plant... everything came from Those two places..