Been working all day today as well. Less than two weeks before we return to the track. It's gonna be a push but I think it will be better than ever. More videos coming all week!
PPM bearing spacers use a magnetic base and digital read out from Harbor Freight set the end play .001-.002 and never look back... Congrats on the 1000 Subs!
The objective of setting the bearing clearance is accomplished by Torquing the retainer nut while the hub is moving to remove All the spacing, then back off the nut a specified number of nut faces, That accurately opens the spacing to the proper gap.....You have an aluminum hub, therefore the gap setting will be different than a steel hub....The manufacture of your hub should be consulted to learn what that setting is....
The lift arm is longer and lighter. It repositions the coil spring assembly on the end mush further out. It also has odd # placement for shock and spring combo. The heims on the end will allow us to move the arm further away from the drive shaft well. During the last race there was some rubbing going on there.
Looks fantastic Ryan! Best of luck with the new setup!🏁🏁🏁
Still have a few loose ends. Back to the track next weekend!
It’s looking good guys
Been working all day today as well. Less than two weeks before we return to the track. It's gonna be a push but I think it will be better than ever. More videos coming all week!
PPM bearing spacers use a magnetic base and digital read out from Harbor Freight set the end play .001-.002 and never look back... Congrats on the 1000 Subs!
Thanks Brad! Do you use spacers on just the front? We never thought about using end play as a final judgement. This is genius!
@@LateModelGarage No sir, I use them on all 4. It makes a huge difference. You don’t have to run as much grease & bearings run cooler and last longer.
@@LateModelGarage shoot me an email bberryracing@yahoo.com
The objective of setting the bearing clearance is accomplished by Torquing the retainer nut while the hub
is moving to remove All the spacing, then back off the nut a specified number of nut faces, That accurately
opens the spacing to the proper gap.....You have an aluminum hub, therefore the gap setting will be different
than a steel hub....The manufacture of your hub should be consulted to learn what that setting is....
Roger That. If any issues arise we will consult with Winters.
What is the difference from what was in there ? Different arm ratio, etc....?
The lift arm is longer and lighter. It repositions the coil spring assembly on the end mush further out. It also has odd # placement for shock and spring combo. The heims on the end will allow us to move the arm further away from the drive shaft well. During the last race there was some rubbing going on there.
Get drp bearing spacers!!
Got any you can put on loan?
What did that lift bar cost...complete?
Torque spec is based off of the bolt diameter...you can find a generic chart online.
$400 and we picked it up so no freight. There are cheaper options but this one came ready to go and it we got to support a small business. Win Win.
True, but the type of metal you are bolting too also plays a factor. Good and Tight seems to be working for us for now. Thanks for watching!
Grease the hub
There was some grease in there. We are trying a less is more approach with a high dollar grease. Thanks for watching!