Toyota 3RZ-FE Valve Adjustment
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มี.ค. 2019
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*PLEASE READ THIS VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In this video, we show you how to do a valve adjustment on a Toyota 3RZ-FE 4 cylinder engine. The techniques and procedures we show for this engine would also translate to other Toyota dual overhead cam engine like the 5VZ-FE V6.
We cover everything you need to know from showing you what you need to disconnect to get the valve cover off, how to properly measure the valve clearances, how to adjust the valve clearance for any valves that are out of spec, and how to get everything back together once you're all done.
*PARTS*
*If you need to buy shims, we recommend you visit your local Toyota dealer to order them or use an online Toyota Parts Seller.
*Shim #1 (2.50mm or .098in) #13753-74010
*Shim #2 (2.55mm or .100in) #13753-74030
*Shim #3 (2.60mm or .102in) #13753-74050
*Shim #4 (2.65mm or .104in) #13753-74070
*Shim #5 (2.70mm or .106in) #13753-74090
*Shim #6 (2.75mm or .108 in) #13753-74110
*Shim #7 (2.80mm or .110 in) #13753-74130
*Shim #8 (2.85mm or .112 in) #13753-74150
*Shim #9 (2.90mm or .114 in) #13753-74170
*Shim #10 (2.95mm or .116in) #13753-74190
*Shim #11 (3.00mm or .118in) #13753-74210
*Shim #12 (3.05mm or .120in) #13753-74230
*Shim #13 (3.10mm or .122in) #13753-74250
*Shim #14 (3.15mm or .124in) #13753-74270
*Shim #15 (3.20mm or .126in) #13753-74290
*Shim #16 (3.25mm or .128in) #13753-74310
*Shim #17 (3.30mm or .130in) #13753-74330
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com/shop/timmythet...
*Stubby 3/8” Flex Head Ratchet - (it use to be available for sale separately but now we can only find it as part of this 4-piece set) amzn.to/39kQVit
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (Jordan used the 3/8" ratchet from this set. These ratchets, like the one above and 1/2" one below are super functional and will make your wrenching life easier) amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet - (used a 1/2" ratchet to turn crankshaft bolt)
amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
amzn.to/32WIh0M
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set
amzn.to/37iQjVt
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
amzn.to/35dKQwW
*Flex Head Box End Wrench Set - (used a flex head wrench to loosen and tighten the resonator nuts and also to get the very rear valve cover bolt removed and reinstalled)
amzn.to/31x8BOo
*3 Piece Channel Lock Set - (Jordan utilized a channel lock for compressing a constant tension hose clamp) amzn.to/33Hj4rE
*90 Degree Needle Nose Piers - (for constant tension hose clamps, I prefer using a 90 degree needle nose pliers) amzn.to/2VYUro8
*20 Piece Screwdriver Set - (Jordan used a screwdriver to release the wiring harness clips. This is a nice complete set if you're in the market for one) amzn.to/34aLrQ1
*3/8” T-Handle Tool - (Jordan likes using a T-handle tool to save time spinning out fasteners)
amzn.to/2Zf7Fie
*Milwaukee 3/8" Cordless Ratchet (It makes quick work of spinning off multiple fasteners like the valve cover bolts. The cordless ratchet is my preferred tool for applications like this)
amzn.to/2SNWIzq
*Milwaukee M12 Batteries (2 Pack)
amzn.to/2VIRxTa
*Milwaukee M12 Extended Capacity Battery (This is nice for jobs that require a lot of time and/or power like using the M12 Reciprocating saw to cut through something).
amzn.to/2XLH8rx
*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
amzn.to/2XJRd8v
Gear Wrench Magnetic Spark Plug Service Kit, 5/8" (After I saw Jordan using his Gear Wrench magnetic swivel spark plug socket, I decided I had to have this kit)
amzn.to/2SSya88
*Schley Valve Adjusting Tools (To compress bucket and hold it down for shim removal)
ebay.us/PVUk3s
*Valve Clearance Feeler Gauge Set (To check valve clearances)
amzn.to/2EJaVsp
*Micrometer (To measure shims)
amzn.to/2TmMAT7
*Bendable Magnetic Retriever (To pull shim out and put shim in)
amzn.to/2TwLS6c
*Pick Set (To help lift shim off bucket)
amzn.to/2XLaczv
*Toyota FIPG #00295-00103 - (For Engine Applications)
amzn.to/2QrNVFO
*CDI 3/8" Drive 30-250 Inch Pound Torque Wrench - (used to torque valve cover bolts and spark plugs) amzn.to/2J8W8Kz
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
*PLEASE READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
This is the BEST procedure and video as well as narration I have seen in a long time. I have a X2RZ to do and looks like not much difference. But I’ll look for one for the 2RZ just in case before I start. I’m 83 and have played with all sorts of cars since I was 25.
Thank you both.
Thanks for the compliment. It's awesome you're still turning wrenches in your 80's.
This was very informative and cool! Thank you Tim, Sean, and Jordan! This means a great deal to many of us who are getting back into fixing our Toyotas. Jordan sure has plenty of skills when it comes to automotive work and detail specs. You guys work great together! 👍Fonzie thumbs up!👍
We're glad you appreciate the video. Jordan was in our area for several years for his job but he moved back to Georgia unfortunately so you won't be seeing Jordan in any of our videos anymore. I shot a bunch of videos with him and he is an excellent wrenching partner. He will be missed. We might get him back to California for some 4wheeling adventures though with us. Thanks for the Fonzie thumbs up. AYYYYYYY
I love that you make such detailed videos. Thank you
Thanks Colby. Great to hear your appreciate the videos we make. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Love your vids! Thanks, their a service to yota fans everywhere! I need to replace my rear axle seals and bearings. I am also due for a valve adjustment too. My 2000 4runner is at 350,000 miles, and still runs great! My Runner history is linked to an employee at the Yota proving grounds in AZ desert. It is superior in reliability than any vehicle I've owned.
That particular generation of the 4Runner seems to be a very reliable and long lasting vehicle.
Happy to hear you like the videos we're making. Thanks for taking the time to comment and let us know. Good luck with all the planned work. Happy Wrenching!
Best detailed video on use of the Schley 88250 and 88251 tool combo.Thanks guys!
Thanks Albert and you're very welcome.
Awesome detail on valve adjustment brother Tim! Nice chart by the way. Appreciate your extra efforts in replacing a shim for a great visual, thanks!!
Thanks Jake. I was lucky to have Jordan for this video because he was the one with the experience with checking the valve clearances and replacing the shims. We are probably going to team up and do a valve clearance check and adjustment on my 2000 with the V6.
Awesome video! Thanks for taking the time to explain everything every detail along the way.
Thanks and you're very welcome!
this video was done really well; i say that from the perspective of someone who used to shoot video for a living, including making an aircooled vw engine building video back in the '90's, it's still up on my channel... we shot on hi-8 tape so the video gear was lousy, and i had to add narration from a script after the fact; making a good instructional video can be complicated! thx for your work on this.
Thank you for the nice compliment. We try our best to give our viewers very detailed videos to use as a tutorial. It's a lot of work to film and edit these videos, but we know we're helping people,.so it's worth it. Happy Wrenching!
The basket mod is awesome! Just gave me an idea to mount a small toolbox in that spot on my truck!
You just made Jordan smile.
Awesome! Might be running this motor in my pickup, thanks for the video!
Glad you like it my Kuwati Brother. You're welcome!
Very nice video nice teaching great😘😘😘
Dear sir need like this video for 1nz Toyota car thanks
Very clear information and instructions. Thanks for sharing.
You're very welcome.
Very well done, easy to follow, thorough.
Thanks John.
Great video guys. Thanks for all the help.
Glad you like the video Casey. You're very welcome.
This is the best instructional video i have ever seen.
Wow thanks for the nice compliment. We really appreciate it!
@@subtegral Thanks! Glad you're liking what we're doing.
Thanks guys! I just ordered the shim I need to adjust it a tight exh valve. Btw, the motion pro kawasaki tool works great for depressing the bucket
You're welcome. Thanks for the tool tip.
Good video as always Timmy 👌👍
Thanks, we're glad you like it.
Cool video! Thanks for sharing!
We're glad you like it.
Very good demonstration video.
We're glad you like it. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Thank you for your response. I realize that your channel does not specialize in trouble shooting. Any way, the good news is that the problem is corrected. After a detailed review of the wiring drawing the charge light relay was changed so as to solve the problem. I have worked on most models of toyotas for years and enjoy the challenge.
Good job figuring out the problem.
Thanks for listing all the tools and where you can get them.
No problem Rod. Having the right tools for the job is a huge part of being a successful DIY Mechanic. All the tools I use are fairly affordable for the average DIYer compared to people who own Snap On and Matco tools. Happy Wrenching!
Your detailed videos are an invaluable resource!!! So Good!!!
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! Happy Wrenching!
Timmy, Another great Video. Thanks so much for taking the time to help us yoda owners. Need your help or advise. I have a 94 P/U 4x4 3.0 V6.
215,000 miles. Its running great, I'v have had this truck since 30,000 never done the valves.The occasion to replace the Valve cover gasket's is here, passenger side starting to leak.
So the FSM says the Valve clearance are Intake ( 0.18- 0.28 mm 0.007- 0.011 in) Exhaust (0.22 - 0.32 mm 0.009 - 0.013 in) I understand the Calculation Formula on the Intake N =T + A -0.23 mm and exhaust N= T + A- 0.27 the minus .023 & 0.27 are middle numbers for the valve clearances. So hears my question (Sorry it has gotten wordy) if the finial # for the new shim comes out to lets say 2.72 they do not make a shim that size so is it better to go to the 2.70 shim or the 2.75 your assistance or advice would be much appreciated.
Hey Gary, since valve clearances tend to tighten rather than loosen, I'd choose to be closer to having more clearance rather than on the border of not having enough. Having the clearance on the higher side will buy more time between valve adjustments. So, I would go with the 2.7mm shim.
Very good tutorial, Thanks
Thanks William.
This is perfect info! I have the shim tool but no instructions on how to use it on my 93 Camry wagon 5SFE 4 cylinder.
Good luck with the valve lash inspection and adjustment. It can be a test of patience, so if you get frustrated, step away and come back to it.
I havent seen the 4 cylinder 3rd gens in forever very nice and some what rare
They are pretty rare. I do like the the 4cylinder / 5 speed combo. Pretty cool.
@@TimmyTheToolman I agree 4 cylinder with 5 speed manual are nice
@@subtegral very awesome
@@subtegral that is gorgeous how it holding up
@@subtegral that is awesome to hear
Great Video, thanks for making it so clear, the only thing I would ad is the spark plug tube rubber ring on the valve gasket if it need it!
Glad you like the video and thanks for sharing your tip.
@@TimmyTheToolman The reason why I am responding is because I own the same made, model and engine size. I got a check light with a P01072 rich bank 1 code which will not go away I have spent good money trying to get rid of this code I am told by techs that my spark plug tubes have oil in them so The coil packs are shorting out causing missing also, and now the valves are out of adjustment?
@@johnpavon799 Well, if you coil packs were shorting out, I would assume you would get a misfire code.
@@TimmyTheToolman My scanner Zurich R11 does not give code like that but a red oval says miss-fire? I replaced the coil packs with new clean out the cylinders but this same code P1072 keep cumming up?
Not just blowing smoke, but your vids are some of the best explained videos on all of TH-cam. Thank you.
Do you happen to have a video on how to remove the intake manifold on the 3rz?
Thanks for the nice compliment Andrew. We appreciate it! We unfortunately don't have a video for the removal of the intake manifold on the 3RZ.
Amazing Perfect TH-cam 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the nice compliment. Jordan, Sean and I appreciate it.
Genius great video still have hope for we still have some smart young people ; left thank you
Thanks Matt and you're very welcome.
Thanks, great video.
Thanks Gerardo and you're very welcome.
Thanks so much for this!
You're very welcome.
Great video Timmy
Thanks Antonio.
Hi Tim, thanks for this video. Do you have a video on how to read the shim selection chart? Thanks
No video for that. You just have to do the math like we show you in the video and pick the right size shim from the 17 sizes available to get your valve lash back in spec.
Ive learned a lot, thanks guys.. awesome..
Hey Jefferson, Great to hear you gained some knowledge from our video. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman i have a problem same with my nissan sentra b14, GA16DE engine, can you help me? Please
@@jeffersonbancolita6787 I'm not familiar with Nissans but what's the issue?
@@TimmyTheToolman tapping sound, its also has a valve shims, do you think the problem is hight clearance?
@@jeffersonbancolita6787 It could very well be an issue with valve clearances. Engines with hydraulic lifters can make a tapping noise as well, but with this type of shim and bucket system with this engine and the Toyota 3.4 liter V6, they don't have lifters. So, a valve adjustment may very well get rid of the tapping sound for you but I think it might be more a situation of too tight of clearances. From what I learned from Jordan and others, it seems the tolerances end up tightening up, mainly the exhaust valves, rather than loosening up because the valves and valve seats wear allowing a gap to occur between the valve and valve seat which can ultimately cause you to burn up a valve. Basically, with the exhaust valve not fully closing, it's becoming more exposed to the combustion (power stroke) of the cylinder and I think the valve and valve seat weren't made to handle this type of exposure to heat and compression. I guess there's only one way to find out and that's with you pulling the valve covers off and checking the valve clearances with some feeler gauges. Maybe you can find a helpful write-up or video to follow.
Excellent video. Tyvm
Thanks Cameron. You're very welcome.
Perfect Job, Greetings from Colombia
Thanks Juan.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hi, I want to know what could happend if I never do this maintenance, I have a Toyota Land Cruiser 90, with this engine and over 200,000 miles and I never did the adjust valve clearance; at this moment I am having knocking noises betwen 2000 and 3000 rpm and my idle is not quiet; i change my PCV valve and fuel injectors, also fuel pump and fuel filters but the problem persist.
@@JuanCarvajal21 Valve clearances generally tighten over time, especially the exhaust valves, If the valve clearance gets too tight, the valve won't close all the way. This can end up causing the valve seat or the valve itself to be damaged. Basically a hole gets burned into it. This would cause a loss of compression and you would get a misfire on that cylinder. I don't know if it could cause an engine knock though. I think your problem is something else.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you very much
@@JuanCarvajal21 You're welcome.
This video and all your other videos help so much! I have a 97 4Runner with the 3.4l and it sound like a Diesel engine… I’m hoping it has something to do with valve lashing or maybe an exhaust leak and nothing to internal. Have you experienced something like this before. No loss of power or anything like.
Yeah, you could have an exhaust leak. Invest in a mechanic's stethoscope. They are great at helping you narrow down the source of a noise. Here's the one I own: amzn.to/30d7ViV
Great video thank you
Thanks Oscar and you're very welcome.
Thank y'all
You're welcome.
It’s one hundred and ten thousands and three tenths of a inch not one one o three goon😂. Extremely informative video. Not sure how someone could mess this up with yall not leaving out any detail and saying it 15 times. Cheers mate!!
Detailed videos is what we do.
Time for 5VZ-FE!
I reckon it is, I reckon!
Very good thank
Thanks and you're welcome.
Timmah! What are your thoughts of this procedure on a 5VZFE with 341k miles. Will it have any effect on compression values at all. I obviously dont know much at all about this and still learning the curves. TY!
At your mileage, you should definitely check the valve clearances. It can affect the cylinder compression of the valve clearances, which have tightened, and they aren't closing all the way. A tight valve can also get a hole burned in it. th-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=2AuNKtkNpLMOdNlp
I bought my son a 96 Tacoma (3rz). I got it because of the reputation of the engine, but I feel like, even for a 4cyl., shes a little weak. I'm going to start with valve adjustment (thank you much for the detailed video!), but, what would be the next system to look in to?
Even the 3.4 liter V6 isn't a powerhouse. These rigs have never been known for their power. They are known for their reliability.
Buen día, oriente me por favor,quiero cambiar los botadores de mi Toyota Camry 98 porque empezó a sonar raro como los saco,gracias
Greeting, Is the calibration number of the first valve the final number to do the math or does it have to become a specific number and if so, what would be its calibration number?
The intake valves and exhaust valves have a clearance range. If a valve clearance is outside the spec, you then choose a valve shim that will bring it back within that spec. We were very detailed in making this video. If you watch it, you should be able to perform this job with the right tools.
Awesome!!
We're glad you think so. Thanks for commenting.
Hi Timmy thanks for the video and thank you Jordan for showing how it’s done! I have a few questions for you Timmy, is the torque spec for the valve cover and spark plugs the same for the 2rz-fe? The Haynes repair manual I have for my Tacoma says “Not available; tighten securely, but do not overtighten”
Don't know the torque value for the valve covers and spark plugs for the 2RZ-FE engine. The spark plug specs I've seen on Toyota motors has either been 13 ft-lbs or 14 ft-lbs and I bet the 2RZ would be the same. I've seen different values for valve cover bolts on Toyota engines so I don't want to steer you wrong and guess. You might just have to go by feel for the valve cover bolts and use your best judgement. If they are a small bolt, use a ratchet with a short handle or choke up on a longer handle ratchet. The key is to tighten them down equally and slowly. I think you'll be fine going by feel if you've been turning wrenches for a while and understand mechanical advantage.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for the advice Timmy!
@@caliaska4670 You're welcome.
hello Tim, i saw you're video and its great! i got a 2004 tacoma 2.4L I'm hearing loud ticking noise coming from the val-cover do you have a shop or can you recommend me to one that won't over charge me and take advantage.
Depends where you are located. If you're in the California Bay Area, I would recommend Yota1 Performance in Riverbank, California. Riverbank is near Modesto. They are a busy shop so you'll have a wait a bit before they could fit you in with their schedule.
@@TimmyTheToolman
Thank you Tim, i am actually in Mountain View CA, Any shop closer to me?
Thanks dudes, my car just failed the emissions test, gonna replace the O2 sensor and yes maybe even check the clearance on the valves on a 3sz-ve engine. Toyota is just a pain for valve adjustment compared to Honda, but the way Toyota design its valve clearance makes it more reliable as shims don't deteriorate as quickly as a nut and a screw tighten as in the Honda.
You're welcome. Hopefully you'll be able to get it to pass. Yeah, the Toyota design for valve adjustments is a bit of a pain but it's nice to know that there's something good about it compared to other manufacturers.
At around 28:30 you mention “pray to god that’s (cylinder 4 valves) aren’t out (out of spec)”. So my cylinder 4 exhaust valves are 0.003” clearance and in need of new shims. Do you have any recommendations for swapping out those shims in such a tight space?
No, we don't have advice you because our buddy Jordan who's rig we were using for the video never had to had to make adjustments for the rear cylinder. It's the same procedure we show with the exception that it's just going to be hard on you to lean way back over the top of the engine to get the holder tool in place on the edge of the bucket so you can fish the shim out. It's for sure going to be a test of patience for you. If you start screaming and swearing, take a break and come back to it. Let us know how it goes.
Wow back to your video for a refresher. Btw I did succeed at getting that fourth cylinder completed 3 yrs ago. My previous comment three years ago caught my eye (not realizing it was my own question), I was about to comment to give some advice😅. Thanks for what you do Brotha!
I’ve just finished checking the valve clearance on my 98 3rz, found all the intake valves within spec (0.07-0.08) I found 3 exhaust valves out of spec: cyl 1 front valve @ 0.008, cyl 2 rear valve @ 0.009, cyl 4 front valve @ 0.009 - all of these will be corrected however I found cyl 4 rear valve to be @ 0.014 which is at the higher end of the spec. since exhaust valve clearance usually tighten ( decrease) i’m leaning towards leaving it like so (also because it’s a pain to service) what do you and Jordan suggest?
Yeah, your logic is sound. I wouldn't mess with the cylinder 4 exhaust valve either since it's still actually within spec, and like you said, they usually tighten.
Timmy The Toolman Thanks for your reply. Waiting on the shims from the dealer.. I’m glad the procedure has to be done on a cold engine, although it’s a 4 banger it’s still awkward..
Hi, thanks for a very detail video. I purchased the same Schley tool but due to the engine design of Lexus V8 (slanted) there isn't enough room to press the tool far enough to depress the buckets. Is there any other way to depress the buckets? thanks in advance for your help.
That Schley tool is problematic but if you flatten it out a bit by squeezing it in a bench vice of hammering it a bit you can lengthen it's profile.
Another way is with the help of a friend. One person using a large flat blade screwdriver holds down the shim bucket while the other person gets the shim out. One technique to getting the shim out is a blast of compressed air from a fine tipped air gun to pop it free and then grabbing it with a magnet tool.
Start watching this video at play time 49 minutes and 24 seconds of us doing a valve adjustment on the 3.4 Liter V6 engine.
th-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/w-d-xo.html
The only other way is to remove the cams and that's something I've never done on the 3RZ engine so I couldn't advise you on that.
Good luck and let me know if my suggestion helped you out.
@@TimmyTheToolman I purchased the Kawasaki Motion Pro tool for depressing the buckets and shims. And it is somewhat working. Issue now is with the removal of the shims since this Lexus model doesn't have a notch on the bucket but rather a hole on top of the shim. Lexus manual recommends using compressed air and magnet to remove the shim that didn't work. Also tried putting a pick in the hole and pulling up the shim. All the exhaust clearance were at 0.20 and minimum clearance is 0.25 while intake clearance are at 0.15 and minimum clearance is 0.15 so Intakes are minimally within spec. My next option is to just remove the exhaust cams which is a lot easier that removing both cams. Please let me know if there is any alternative way I can try. Thanks again.
@@simple8818 Get a friend to help you by holding down the bucket with a large flat blade screwdriver while you use the compressed air and magnet to remove the shim. We cover this technique in our 5VZ-FE valve adjustment video.
So saving this for when I find a 4cyl 4runner! Still looking
Happy Hunting.
It took me 3 months to find a 4runner with the 3rz, manual transmission, and 4wd. They're pretty sweet rigs!
Yeah, I agree. I like Jordan's combo of the 4 cylinder and manual trans a lot.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks!
@@jedmedin5852 I found one but it was garbage :/ I've found plenty of 5vzfe 5speeds though
I love his engine bay basket mod! Can you ask him where he found his basket at? I want to add one too!
I'll ask Jordan to respond to your question.
Thanks man!
The 4Runner service maintenance says to check valve clearance and they quote 0.10 labor units, so about 6 minutes. Do they suggest to check them just by listening to it or simply based on mileage?
Don't know how they could check valve clearances in a tenth of an hour unless they are a wizard or they have x-ray vision.
@@subtegral Thanks for the comment. That made me laugh.
Timmy, is there another way to perform this job? I was able to measure 7 shims but the rest will not come out. Please help!!
With the help of a friend, one person using a large flat blade screwdriver holds down the shim bucket while the other person gets the shim out. One technique to getting the shim out is a blast of compressed air from a fine tipped air gun to pop it free and then grabbing it with a magnet tool.
Start watching this video at play time 49 minutes and 24 seconds of us doing a valve adjustment on the 3.4 Liter V6 engine.
th-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/w-d-xo.html
The only other way is to remove the cams and that's something I've never done on the 3RZ engine so I couldn't advise you on that.
Good luck and let me know if my suggestion helped you out.
Good woork men frome mexico city👍👏👏👏👏
Thanks my Mexican Toyota Brother!
Great video very detailed and informative, thank you.
I'm currently going through this job and I've corrected all the exhaust valves most of which had an original clearance of 0.006"!
But for the intake side I've only had to change 3 valves as they were on the edge of spec at 0.006" now after changing the shims two of those intake valves measure at 0.010" and one valve at 0.011".
Not sure where I've gone wrong.
I've tried to find any information regarding if this is acceptable as it seems to be okay for exhaust valves to run on the loose side but I am unsure of the intake side. I'm thinking I need to change the 0.011" closer to the middle of spec but unsure of the others.
Any feedback would be appreciated, cheers
Middle of the spec is preferable, but if you're going to be off a little one way or the other, it's better to be looser than tighter because valve clearances usually tighten over time.
Thank you, I found I can use some of the exhaust shims to get the intake clearance closer to middle of spec so I'll try that this afternoon cheers
@@sammanning9155 Ok, good luck.
Excellent video I give you an a
Thanks! We were hoping to maintain our 4.0 grade average.
Let's say ya bought a new head with all new valve train components ( valves, springs, keepers, valve seals, etc ) but you are using your existing/old cams & buckets that are still in great condition. ( You would still have your existing shims as well, of course. ) Seeing as all the valves are closed due to the valve springs when the head isn't installed yet, Is it possible to check & adjust valve lash with the head sitting on a work bench?
I suppose you could attach the intake and exhaust cams and get a wrench on the cam sprocket bolt to turn the cam lobes to check the valve lash but then you'd have to remove the cams to get the heads onto the block. I don't know if that would be easier and a time savings.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yeah, I meant to mention bolting the cams onto the head to do it. Seems like I remember seeing a couple videos of guys checking & adjusting the valve lash this way, but as you just stated, it may or may not be any easier.
That Schley Product valve shim removal tool is no longer manufactured. Do you have any suggestion? And this video is very useful for me to utilize. Thank you!
Schley still makes that toolset. We have a link in the video description. You have to click on "....more" to expand the video description and you'll find the link as well as links to all the other tools we used for the job. But, since making this video, I found out I could source the actual OEM special service tools which are far superior to the ones Schley makes. The only caveat is, they are quite a bit more expensive. I think the OEM toolset is worth the price tag though. *Toyota OEM Valve Clearance Adjust Tool Set #09248-55040 Here's a website that sells it: toyota.service-solutions.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=09248-55040
@@TimmyTheToolman Hey man, thanks for responding. Well, I went directly to that link you provided for I was on a ordering marathon to get my truck back up and running. When I clicked on the link you provided, it said it wasn't available. So I went all over the place and I couldn't find anyone who sells that exact product except one shop up in the northwest as well as Australia. However, THANK YOU for posting that toyota OEM link because I'll go down that route. And please do keep up with the videos especially with the 1st generation Tacoma. Thank you sir!
@@trinitysite72 No problem. Good luck with the job.
Tim, thanks you very much for the time and effort you put into all your videos, there super helpful. I've been a long-time Toyota Tacoma aficionado, I have a 2017 Toyota Tacoma SR5 four-door short bed as well as a 1999 Toyota Tacoma extended cab long bed that has a 3RZ-FE
5-speed this vehicle currently has 232,560 miles on it. This particular video has been very helpful in taking care of the valve job that was in dire need, I have found while doing this that the exhaust valves were the ones that were mostly out of spec by .003 to .005. I was wondering on this same style engine (3RZ-FE) have you or will you be doing a video on the replacement of the oil pump seal replacement, it seems the front of my engine is saturated with oil and road debris. If you do not foresee yourself doing this type of repair in the future could you provide a good book or publication location where I could find the necessary information to do this job? It doesn't look like it would be that difficult, but it does seem like the timing cover needs to come off as well as the harmonic balancer. If this is the case is it necessary or possibly recommended to replace the timing chain guides as well as the tensioner for the guides? I'm also going to assume that since I am in the general location replacing the front main seal would be recommended? Your guidance would be greatly appreciated kind regards!
Glad you found this video helpful. A good resource for the oil pump resealing is the Toyota factory service manual. There are online versions floating around if you do a Google search. I personally like having the actual physical books. If you do a search, you will most likely find the 2 book set for your rig for sale on Ebay. I wouldn't be any help to you in giving you advice on this job because I've never done it. Use the Toyota FSM as a reference and look for existing videos and forum write-ups on this subject. I'm sure you find helpful information from people who have done this job. You could also ask questions on Tacoma World in the 1st Gen section of the forum. Good luck and Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman, thank you for the response I'll look for the manuals and videos. Please continue with the videos there invaluable and excellently detailed. Thumbs up buddy! 👍🏼
With 232,560 miles on the 3RZ-FE engine ( as of a year ago in the above comment ), you should really replace the entire timing chain/gears/guide, tensioner, as well as the chain for the balance shafts to begin with. They recommend replacing the timing chain/gears, etc etc at around 150,000 miles MAX. Mine currently has 361,000 miles on it. I admit, I have been tempting fate by waiting so long. But the engine is still running great......and I just ordered & received the complete timing chain kit that has everything mentioned above, from LC Engineering (LCE for short).......the best company for Toyota parts for every day street OR high performance, hands down. The timing chain & balance shaft chain included in this particular kit are ultra-heavy duty UPGRADES, as are their METAL guides, vs the plastic guides made by Toyota.....and are the best on the market. Total kit cost from LC Engineering: $214.00. The Toyota dealership wanted $616.00 for such a kit. Toyota also wanted $123.00 for a new water pump. I bought a new water pump also, from LCE, for $66.00. Ya might as well replace the water pump during this job ( timing chain/gears, etc ), ya have to remove it anyway. LC Engineering has been in business in the USA since 1985. I'm lucky that my good friend is a mechanic/tech for Toyota for over 25 years. He was SO impressed with LCE, he agreed to order the parts/kit from them. He will be doing this job for me next weekend. LCE has been racing & beating on all the R series & 3RZ engines for many many years. Their research & development is 2nd to none. Of course we all should avoid cheap Chinese replacement parts for our Toyota's. But LCE beats the pants off of the OEM parts from the Toyota dealerships.....and LCE either carries original OEM parts, or upgraded parts they engineered & fabricated themselves. Trust no one else........
@@howabouthetruth2157 Thank You for the information I’ll look them up and see about the purchase of necessary parts. Did the valve cover and valve adjustments on the exhaust side months ago made a significant improvement to the way the engine responds now. Thanks for the help!
@@jumpenjackflash4964 Happy to share it. It's funny, because my buddy had intentions of buying the original parts from the same sources that Toyota uses, without going through the dealership to save money. So I asked him if he'd heard about LCE & he said he knew of a few guys that bought entire heads and headers. Those dudes were very pleased with their LCE parts & performance. I gave him their ph nu plus their website. He texted me 2 days later stating he bought the $214.00 kit I was wanting because he too became impressed when he read the parts information & spoke to an LCE rep. When you buy parts from LCE, those cats answer the phone & go all-out to answer all your questions, very friendly & polite too........and these dudes know every strength or weakness in all the 22r/re, 3RZ/FE, and any other Toyota mill that is worth driving or beating on. Then they improve on parts that have room for improvement. Both them and my Toyotech buddy told me that once the timing chain stretches beyond the limits of the tensioner, the chain will begin to slap against the plastic guide, which is also old & worn by then. The chain & the plastic guide both can break, causing valves to drop & bust pistons. Holy moly. Like I said, I've been tempting fate at 361,000 miles.......but only 30k miles ago, my buddy inspected the chain & tensioner when he replaced a leaky valve cover gasket. ( The only thing I ever needed to do to this engine up till now, other than those worthless cast iron exhaust manifolds that always crack. Got a stainless long tube header & solved that problem. Motor really has guts on take-off now like it never had before & a decent power increase everywhere else too. Even the auto trans behaves better. It kicks down a gear with far less throttle for passing other vehicles. If I'd had known just how much better a LONG TUBE header makes this thing run, I would've done it years ago. This is still with the original stock muffler, and just as quiet. )
Great video, as always! Would love for a 5VZ-FE version but this one will do just fine in conjunction with the FSM. I've created a 5VZ-FE spreadsheet that mimics Jordan's, if you would like it message me.
Sure, I would like a spreadsheet for the 5VZ-FE engine. Here's my email address: mtbtim@sbcglobal.net We will eventually do a valve adjustment video for the 6 cylinder motor.
J
@@TimmyTheToolman did you ever get his spreadsheet?
@@weijia8088 I did and I looked at it recently and was a bit confused how it was organized so I made up my own. It's nothing fancy but it will work.
Would the valve lash clearance for a 5vz-fe 3.4l be the same ??
Don't know. You'd have to reference the factory service manual to find out. We haven't performed a valve adjustment on a 5VZ-FE engine yet.
Why would all dash/idiot lights come on? I have changed the alternator but the problem persists. Any suggestions?
Have you checked the condition of your battery and charging system with a multimeter or volt meter?
Hi Timmy, have you by any chance done a valve adjustment for 22RE? Thks..jc
Not yet, but I know I will one day.
@@TimmyTheToolman ok, thks..jc
Is there a video for a 2000 tundra V8 4.7L
Sorry, we haven't done a valve adjustment on the 4.7 liter.
Of course only the back ones are out of spec on mine (plus the entire exhaust side I guess). Fun times 👍
Yep, you'll be having some fun. One thing we didn't talk about in the video is that you can use a blast of compressed air from a fine-tipped air nozzle to free the shim from the bucket. Get the bucket notch facing you and put the nozzle tip right at the notch and give it a quick blast. It works pretty damn well.
Hey Timmy. Would you say that if I’m already hearing a very loud audible ticking/tapping from the top end that at least one of my valves itself is probably destroyed?
Not necessarily. Do the valve adjustment and hope for the best.
@@TimmyTheToolman I just checked the lash all my intakes are in specs and all of my exhausts need adjusting.(too tight) but one (#4 cylinder farthest back against firewall) is so loose I can’t check it with my feeler gauges. So that’s the culprit.
@@calvinledsome4614 Well, you figured it out. Now the question is whether or not it's salvageable. I thought that exhaust valves usually tighten up but this loosened so I don't know what that means. So that valve isn't opening as far as it should then, right? Hopefully Toyota has a shim that will bring it back in spec. I'm thinking this is better than too tight though because too tight ends up burning up a valve.
How do you depress the shim/bucket at valve 5 (front side of cylinder 3) where the hexagonal wrench head is on the camshaft? The Schley pliers don't seem to fit in here, unless I am missing something. Any other tools/techniques to get the bucket held down for shim removal? Seems like Toyota fixed this issue on some of their other motors by moving the hex away from the cams.
Your videos are amazing..... thank you so much
You could try the two-person technique. One guy used a big flat blade screwdriver and pushes the bucket down while the other guy uses a blast of compressed air from a fine tipped air gun to dislodge the shim and catches it with a magnet. Pushing down the bucket isn't exactly easy when you're leaning over the fender. I found it's actually easier to get all the way on top of the engine to be able to apply the necessary force with the screwdriver to compress the bucket. You just have to be careful where you're kneeling and putting your feet that you don't break something.
Thanks for the compliment. I hope my suggestion helps you out.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks, Tim. Will give it a shot
@@garrettrauck8158 Let me know how it works out for you.
Are the 5VZfe engines capable of getting valve adjustments to? I’f so, A video potentially in the future?
Yes, you can adjust the valves on a 5VZ-FE engine. A future video will happen at some point.
Timmy The Toolman If you need a victim, i mean a volunteer. I just would need to know all the parts I’ll need to buy. Thanks for the video on this I-4 you and Jordan are very precise.
@@ndeeeed We'll let you know if we need a Guinea pig for this job. For now though we don't have plans to do it any time soon. Thanks for the offer though. We appreciate it.
When installing the timing chain tensioner under the distributor do I have to have the tensioner in the open or closed position timmythetoolman
You want the tensioner in the retracted position until you verified you got your belt on correctly by double-checking the timing marks. Then you pull the pin on the tensioner and put your motor back together.
Timmy The Toolman ok. thanks timmy
@@marcusmanuel4041 You're welcome Marcus. Good luck getting everything put back together.
Tnx.
Yw
Could an incorrect valve clearance cause a crank but no start on a 4runner 3.4L V6 engine?
No, I don't think so.
Hey, I have a question for you 😃. I checked all mine today, and while the intake side was all in spec except 2 which were just barely under, the exhaust side was a complete mess. I had measurements range from 0.006” to 0.011”. Is there even a way to get my 0.006” clearance to the proper 0.012” where I want it? I don’t think they make shims with that big of difference. It could also be a measurement error but I checked it a couple times. I really don’t want to end up with any burnt valves because I just got this truck and I want to keep it a long time. Any insight is much appreciated, thank you!
You'll be able to bring them all back in spec. Check the video description. We list all the shims Toyota makes.
@@TimmyTheToolmanThank you! I got my decimals mixed up haha. I thought the biggest difference between the smallest one and the biggest one was only 0.003” but it’s actually 0.03”. Thank you!
Very thorough. I would be curious how to determine if valve adjust is necessary other than by high mileage or to routinely check when valve cover gasket needs replacement? Thanks
The only way to determine if they need adjusting is by doing what we show in the video. Routine checks usually based on a certain amount of mileage is what people do.
you should adjust according to most around 60k miles but what i would recommend every year.. since exhaust going out of specs without noticable rough idle or ticking but will start to shorten valves and valve-seat life expectancy and crack your exhaust manifold.
you can check it by simply putting a paper on the end of exhaust pipe while idling,, it should push the paper smoothly,, if paper slightly seems being sucked in then valves need to be adjusted.
checking valves is saving you a ton of money down the road while restoring performance and fuel economy, its always worth to chekc
@@TheDesertegal7 Thanks for this information. Good stuff.
@@TimmyTheToolman most welcome,, one more thing.. o2 sensor will perform better when having consistent exhaust flow.
ya probs won't even see my comment, but I would like to say thank you for taking the time to do the video.
What's different about our channel is we do read the comments and we get back to people. Some questions and comments squeak by us but we answer and acknowledge most. So, you're very welcome.
@@TimmyTheToolman oh my goodness ! Wow, Thats fantastic ! I have just found out how hard it is to buy a Valve Adjusting tool set to push the shims down before taking them out. The tool set is very hard to find, still can't find anywhere who has stock.
Thank you again! I have so much confidence
to do my 2010 Hyundai Tucson once I go to replace the weeping valve cover gasket and get these gaps measured.
Ones I do find all say : Suits Nissan & Toyota Engines For overhead camshaft engines .. But mine is HYUNDAI. Oh dear lord...... surely they must be the same.
@@CaptureYouVideo That's interesting you can't find the toolset anywhere. I think the whole Covid thing messed up shipping from China which is where I assume these tools are made.
Not sure is they are the same or not, but the tools aren't expensive, so it's worth the gamble.
Are you in Socal? Can I bring you my 4runner for this adjustment? Do you work at a shop?
We're in NorCal and we're not mechanics for hire. We work out of our homes making videos to help people do the jobs themselves.
Hey Timmy I know you’ve heard of the famous “Tacoma Tick” my 04 2.7l Tacoma is ticking constantly from drivers side of the engine. I’ve heard many reasons of it online but not one way to fix it. What is your take on the “Tacoma tick” and anyways to make it go away/ quiet? Thanks keep up the great Toyota videos.
I actually haven't heard of Tacoma Tick. It could be valves out of adjustment or possibly a noisy lifter. Try adjusting the valves and see where that gets you. If that doesn't change anything, I don't know what you would try next. Some engines are noisier than others. I doubt you'd want to tear apart your engine to find the source of the noise, because that would be a lot of work and there's a good chance you wont find the answer. If you're doubting the health of your engine, you could always do a compression test of the cylinders. We have a compression test video you can use: th-cam.com/video/ky7bndfFpO0/w-d-xo.html If you found that one of your cylinders had a low compression number, you would want to do a leak down test and we have a video for that as well: th-cam.com/video/8yuCHzqH7MY/w-d-xo.html
Timmy The Toolman Thanks for the reply! If you google Tacoma tick on the Tacomaworld forms you will see many people with the same issue.. But they say it’s a combination of noisey injectors, evap valve under intake, exhaust leak, vsv noise. Truck runs perfect drives perfect no change to it just recently started ticking.. I will have to start with the valve thanks again 👍🏼
@@jacobmccann9871 Well, good luck figuring it out. Then me know how it goes.
Timmy The Toolman hey well the noise continued to get a little louder and more to a clacking noise I have the 2.7l took it to a mechanic and he is almost positive it is the timing chain hitting the guides.. how tough of a job is this and would you happen to have a video on it already? Thanks
@@jacobmccann9871 I'll ask my buddy Jordan since he has experience with this engine. If I don't get back to you send me a reminder.
hi,, very impressed with your videos in general.
im having 3rzfe with cracked cyl-head, new cyl-head i acquired is the new type which having 4-port intake side while old one was an 8-port one.
i did my homework technically and verified that all components are compatible with my truck in terms of camshaft sensor .. etc until balancer-shaft.
only major difference is the intake camshaft timing angles which are:
old oem: open at 5° and closes at 45°
new one: open at 2° and closes at 48°
exhaust didn't change: both old+new are the same opening at 42° and closing at 2°.
previous factory overlap was 7° while current is 5°.
my old factory is mfg'd 1995-1999 while the new head with 4-ports + new timing configuration is adopted 2000-2004.
my question im i running into any problem / rough idle?
new cylinderhead is beyond return now and i just finished rebuilding the engine and didn't start it yet since dont want any hesitation + lean / rich mixes during the break-in period.
very much appreciated and thanks in advance.
1998 MTM 4X4 4Runner just passed 300k+ miles two months ago.
Your issue and question is above my pay grade. I wish I could help you out with this but my knowledge of this engine is fairly limited. This might be a better question for a Toyota forum or a shop that rebuilds these engines. I just don't know if a shop is going to spend the time on the phone with you to answer your question when they know they're not going to be selling you anything.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for your response. will see what happens when start it up,, if faced rough idle then will shut it off and put the old camshaft for intake.
i know nobody in the whole country + Toyota dealer who ever heard about this, im having contacts there but with no clue while im just a DIY guy.
anyway will let you know what happens of you are interested.
cheers..!
@@TheDesertegal7 Ok, good luck. Hope it works out for you.
Hello Timmy, just to update you of the situation, luckily engine runs smooth as before if not better.. idle is perfect,, im still in breakin period as replaced rod bearing and all pistions rings.
i drove it with new 4-port head but with the 8-port intake manifold with no leaks. yesterday installed a 4-port intake just to be able to feel completely fine.
Cheers, Samir
@@TheDesertegal7 That's good to hear. Sounds like it worked out.
Hi, I have had to reshim 2 valves that had no clearance now twice within 1000 kilometers of driving, any ideas what might be causing this.
The only thing I can think of is the valve seat is deteriorating at an accelerated rate.
@@TimmyTheToolman I was wondering if the head has gone soft.
Nice video man I’m in the process of doing this job now and I’m wondering where to get a page of that adjustment sheet in the book so I can order the correct size shims.
You should get yourself a manual. You can find a set for sale on Ebay for a reasonable price.
@@TimmyTheToolman the ones I’m finding are 2-300 dollars. Is that what they go for?
@@b.powelljr1110 The last time I checked, a set was going for around $150. Around 6 years ago, I did pay $300 for my two volume set. If you keep searching, you'll find a set for a reasonable price.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks man. I appreciate your videos I’ve used them A LOT.
@@b.powelljr1110 You're welcome Bradley and great to hear our videos are helping you out.
41:49 why do you say that valves tighten during use? Intuition is that the clearance would increase as the cam lobe wears the shim down.
Hey Ryan, it didn't make much sense to me at first either. I think the shims are made of such a hard steel, the cam lobes aren't really doing much to wear the shims down. But, valve clearances will get tighter as the seats and valves wear. As wear happens, the valve seats farther and farther into the seat, using up the valve clearances. I hope that makes sense of how the valve clearance can reduce over time,
@@TimmyTheToolman yep that makes sense to me, thanks for clarifying.
I am in the process of doing this. One warning I have is that if you have to replace multiple shims, its tempting to have multiple shims removed instead of putting them back in after you remove them (DO NOT DO THIS). Take the measurement of the old shim and put it back in until you get the replacement shim.
If you try turning the cam shaft when a shim is removed, the lobe of the camshaft will be able to catch on the side of the shim bucket and if you keep turning it WILL break the edge of the shim bucket, and there could be damage to the camshaft in extreme cases.
I managed to remove 12/14 shims without having this happen, but as I rotated the camshaft to get the final shims I felt it catch, even with measures in place to avoid this problem it was very easy to break the edge of the shim bucket. I was aware of this possibility ahead of time and I still had it happen. Its totally my fault. And you'll have to remove the camshaft to replace the shim bucket.
A tip for removing the cylinder 4 shims, taking apart the pliers and using the hook to push down on the shim can make access a bit easier.
Thanks for the comment. We had the exact same experience as you when we recently filmed a valve adjustment on the 3.4 Liter V6 engine. We ended up removing the exhaust cams because so many valves were out of spec. th-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/w-d-xo.html
Do you have a pdf on that work sheet to wright down valve lash
Sorry, no PDF for that. But, I'm sure you could easily make one up yourself just by using a table format.
Ya looks like it thank you for the quick reply and you video is super helpful going to start mine tonight
@@californiadryfly5439 Good luck with the job. Let us know how it went for you.
can you use used shims? the dealerships want an arm and a leg. I pulled all my shims from a pic n pull can I use them? The dealership uses used ones
Yes, you can use used shims.
@@TimmyTheToolman any trick to em? Or can I just wipe em clean and use them
@@davis6908 Just clean them up with some brake cleaner, and maybe a brass brush.
Hey man I have a question for you
I am working on a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L manual transmission, the truck has a miss fire on cyl # 4 , checked coils and they are good, injectors are brand new ( genuine) spark plugs as well
Recently I did the head job cause head gasket blown recently, I have to mention that a year ago somebody else did the head job without using the service bolt on the exhaust cam so it ended up tightening the exhaust valves a lot so I adjusted the valves and still have the miss fire, spark plug wires are good (tested them) egr valve tested , new fuel filter , ecm is good, tested the power from injector connector also good.
I am running out of ideas if you have had a similar issue in the past with a Toyota please share some tips, thanks in advance
Hey Hector, have you confirmed the compression is good for the #4 cylinder? Is the engine acting like it's running on 3 cylinders or is it just a CEL code that won't go away?
@@TimmyTheToolman compression is good , I did a leak down test yesterday and it was good to well it had like 7 percent if leak but in my opinion not enough to cause a missfire
Yeah it's running on 3 cyl
After the first start right after the head job it gave cyl 3 and 4
Switched injector and it gave cyl 1 and 2 So I put 2 new fuel injectors in 1 and 2 and then the missfire went back to cyl 4 after I performed the adjustment ran good for a few minutes and the it started missing again
@@crissy7503 Something is definitely not adding up. If the compression and leak down test resulted in no red flags, it sounds like it has to be electrical in nature or a problem with fuel delivery. When you did the leak down and compression tests, were all the spark plugs out? I know sometimes there can be a crack in the head between cylinders and the cylinder is loosing pressure to the neighboring cylinder. What about the spark plug wires? Are those new as well? Did you double check the wires are connected to the right cylinders?
@@TimmyTheToolman well the head was resurfaced 2 weeks ago and wires are new as well
I going to double check all the electrical system and see what I found
Thanks for responding man I really appreciate it
@@crissy7503 Ok, hope you can figure it out.
Wat would be a fair price for a 3rd gen 4runner tranny replacement ?
Depends on a lot of things. What area of the country you're in. Labor rates will vary depending where you live. In the California Bay Area where I live, labor rates are very high, $150-200/hour. Whether you're using a remanufactured or used transmission for the swap. A Toyota remanufactured trans will run you around $2500. Whether you're using a private shop or the dealership. Dealership labor rates are usually higher. We have a 3 Part Video Series for a transmission replacement. You could save quite a bit of money doing it yourself.
Anyone know how you would get an idea of what shim you need if the shim is already tight to the cam… how would you measure that??
At some point, the thinnest shim isn't enough to bring you back within spec. When that's the case, you run the engine as is or you rebuild the heads.
@@TimmyTheToolman I have 3 exhaust valves that are at 0.002, so hopefully they make one that is 0.012 thinner than what’s on there to at least get me to the bottom of the tolerance… I don’t see why not, they look plenty thick….
@@freequenc5266 Go to your local Toyota dealer parts department and they will tell you the shim thicknesses that are available. Hopefully they will have the right ones you need.
I forgot, we list the available shim thicknesses in the vide description of this video: th-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/w-d-xo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for the replies, appreciate it!
Very helpful video. I think this was my second time watching. I eventually want to check/adjust valve clearances on my 99 ES300 and 02 Sienna. Since both are the V6 1MZFE, I have a question unanswered from this video that I'm hoping you might have an idea about. Detailed valve adjustment videos on these vehicles are hard to find.
In the repair manual, when rotating the crank timing to measure the separate groups of valve clearances, on the 1mzfe it involves 1st group at cylinder 1 TDC, then it moves on to crank rotated 240 degrees for the 2nd group of valves, then another 240 degree rotation for the 3rd group.
SO... my question about that is... how precise does the degree of turn need to be? Enough to need some kind of special diagram around the crank to assist? Unlike the 4 cylinder, you have no marks on the crank to guide your ending point when not on the special timing set marks like TDC. OR, is it not as much about the exact preciseness of the degree as it is about those cam lobes just being at the very top of its turn on those specific valve locations?
My other question involves measuring the shims after removal. If I have a very precise digital caliper tool, can that be used instead of needing to buy a micrometer? Seems to me like that would be fine, but I'm not sure why they specifically call for the micrometer.
Both of your questions are very good. I looked at the instructions in the FSM for the 5VZ-FE engine and it's similar with a certain degree turn to check the next set of valve clearances. I know a guy who has experience with this and I will ask him.
For your question about using a digital caliper vs a micrometer, I'm not sure either but I imagine the micrometer is going to be more precise. I'll ask my friend about this as well and get back to you.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you! I appreciate this. It's the little questions like this that when enlightened about can make a huge difference in confidence going in!
@@nikovandh No problem. I'll try to get ahold of him tomorrow.
@@nikovandh I got an answer for you. The degree turn is just a guide to get the next set of valves ready to be measured. You're mainly looking at the position of the cam lobes and measuring the ones with the cam lobes pointing up. The lobes don't really even have to be pointing up but they obviously need to be not pushing on the shim for you to measure the valve lash. I hope that makes sense.
@@TimmyTheToolman totally makes sense, and was the answer I was hoping for 😁 thanks so much for taking the time
you can alternately tape down some 400 grit wet /dry sand paper, on a small granite surface plate, for little shim tweaks like that....sand, rotate, sand.
just make sure the modified shim is very clean and oiled before reinstalling.
but living in the middle of know where has taught me not to tear into an engine unless i have a back up mode, so it's not going to be so easy for me this time....i have to do a valve job.
That's a good idea with the sand paper. Having a back-up vehicle is imperative for the more involved jobs.
@@TimmyTheToolman my life just got too busy...
when i started hearing the exhaust pops, all i could think about was getting a motorcycle up and running.
@@TimmyTheToolman my mistake was trying to make enough time to do all the other work my truck needed, all at the same time .... i should have just did like you did here, and left the other stuff for later.
I have tacoma 95 2.4l and I have exhaust burn valve how replacement
If you have a burnt valve you have to remove the head off the engine and replace it. It would be probably be best just to get the whole head reconditioned or buy one that's ready to go.
Thanks this weekend I gonna see the guy on the shop and see what wappen cause almost year ago he fix overheating change head gasket and see about warranty
Tim turns the tool toward him.
Huh? I don't understand your comment. A time stamp and a little more verbiage would help.
@@TimmyTheToolmansounds like a silence of the lambs reference?
Hey Tim. Just to clarify, does the wedge tool go in the gap between the bucket and the shim? If so, how much force does it take to wedge it in?
You have the two tools. The first tool compresses the bucket and shim downward. With it compressed, you get the holder tool in between the edge of the bucket and the cam. It's not easy and it can pop out. The tool needs to be just capturing the edge of the bucket and not any of the shim. With the tool in place holding the bucket down, now you can attempt to free the shim from the bucket. I hope that clarifies how to use the tools.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the reply, that did clarify things. If it does pop out while you have the shim removed, how do you depress the bucket?
@@zp9814 You can use the compression tool to catch the edge of the bucket and compress it. Another option is having a friend push down the bucket with a large flat blade screwdriver while you get the holder tool in position.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the help and for the video! Hopefully I don’t have too many out of spec at 142,000 miles.
You're welcome. Good luck with the job.
Hello great video as always. I'm in the process of a 3rz swap into my 85 1st gen 4runner. My 3rz is on my motor stand (so nice to work on 😁)
My question is if I remove the shim to measure it can I leave the shims out and remove the tool to move on to the next one? This way I can get them all out and measured so I can order the right shim size to correct my valve clearances.
Or do I need to remove the shim, measure shim then reinstall it to move on to the next one?
Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks again for the great videos
I'm assuming you could leave them out and go onto the next one but I'm going to ask someone I know that has done tons of valve adjustments to get confirmation and I'll get back to you.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you. I really appreciate it.
@@TimmyTheToolman talked to a tech at my local Toyota dealership and he said I'd be fine to remove them all (just make sure to keep them in order they came out)
Then I can measure them all and order the new ones. 👍
@@P.G._FPV Good to know Gary. I didn't get a chance to talk to the guy I know with lots of experience on this yet.
@@TimmyTheToolman no problem just thought I'd share what I was told. If your guy says anything different please let me know. 👍
Hey Timmy! I’ve got an important question about my 5vzfe. I replaced both head gaskets after the engine overheated. Engine ran perfectly fine before the procedure. Now it ticks. The timing is correct. What do you think happened? Mixed up the bucket retainers? Different oil thickness? Too much assembly lube? I need help!
Thanks
-Drew
Hard to say Drew. I've never done a head gasket job myself so I don't have the expertise to really help you out. I know fuel injectors can make ticking noises and mimmic a noisy lifter. Did you replace your fuel injectors as part of this job?
Timmy The Toolman thanks for the reply. Nope, still the same injectors. By the way, it only starts ticking after it gets up to operating temperature!
Any suggestions?
-Drew
@@drewshepard8002 I don't really know Drew. But, would you tear apart the engine again to figure it out? I think if it were me and the engine seems to run fine, I'd live with the ticking sound. My 2000 3rd Gen has made a ticking noise for the last 60k miles. Don't know what it is and I'm just going to drive it.
Timmy The Toolman Honestly, I’ve torn it apart twice now🤕 So, I’ll check the valve lash, but I’m gonna stop there. She’s at 320,000 miles, so when she dies, I’ll just replace the engine. Until then, I’ll live with it!
Thank you for your helpful advice! Cheers Timmy.
-Drew
1998 4Runner Limited
@@drewshepard8002 We are planning on doing a motor swap video. We would have already had it made if it wasn't for the virus shutdown.
This engine is sooo clean, mine has dirt all over it, I tried to clean mine off as much as I could and some dirt fell in, also the line on the cast aluminum had little chunchs break off and fall in is that ok???
I'm guess you couldn't fish out the pieces that fell in? The main concern with debris falling into the valve train is potentially blocking an oil passageway.
@@TimmyTheToolman i was not able too. Thats what id be affraid of i was hoping it would work its way down and be ground down or put through the oil filter. I hope it doesnt wreck my engine, it has 189k on it and im about to travel 2k miles this coming week
@@davis6908 You'll probably be ok.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks man, one last thing, I accidentally cranked over the engine and forgot about the wrench on my crank pully, I put it back in and torqued it to 220 ft lbs is that too much? I found sooo many different torque specs and just went with the highest one. Is it ok I used the old bolt and no loctite?
@@davis6908 The Toyota factory service manual suggests not reusing the crank bolt but I'd bet you're fine. What you torqued the crank bolt to is fine. Loctite is not needed.
What size are the shims
Open the video description of this video: th-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/w-d-xo.html We list all the available shims sizes Toyota sells.