What I reallllllllly wish is that the game companies offered a very detailed online booklet that has a more clear understanding of each adjustments offered in a way for all users to understand. I get why they stopped booklets due to online purchases of virtual discs, but doesn’t mean virtual booklets should have been removed too. Especially that games are more higher priced now too. Step it up game companies… as the details in the in game details aren’t so clear at times… perhaps even diagram pics of what is in fact changing…just sayin.
Fr. The main reason why I have to look out for built setups is because I haven‘t got the time to test what each setting does to the car… there is a setup guide by Driver61 (just search Driver61 setup guide) which says what to change when you experience understeer, oversteer etc. in different situations but even that is sometimes hard to manage
I remember buying a rally game back in 2005 called Colin McRae rally 04, it used to come with a booklet exactly as you're describing. It helped me get into SIM racing
Pls stop spreading misinformation and buying into the myth about brake pads, pad 2 is in the preset for a reason and it’s not endurance. Pads 1 performance is higher only in a strict temperature window which most beginners won’t have control of and even then difference is laughably low, they are more aggressive and harder to control with way less progressive feel, while pad 2 is way more progressive, easier to brake with, operates in way bigger temperature range and will enable every beginner to understand his pedal work better. Pad 2 is a better pad to use with no performance inpact even in a competitive environment
This is why we as a community are just better ❤ Thanks for clearing that up! I just learned, that Pad one had the better performance and in return they don't last as long. Clearly my mistake then 😅 - Regards, Joe
I’ve been running Aggressive and only changing the fuel. Never had time to dig deeper. After one quick race against the AI (Misano) I can say, ACC is way more fun now thanks to your advice. Just set a PB and worked my way from 12th to 2nd. I struggled there previously. Thanks for the video.
Tested the Audi yesterday at Spa. Lowered it and adjusted the wing (from default aggressive) and gained 2.5 seconds!! on a lap. To note is that on Monza I found it quite ok with default aggressive, only changed the pads. I am novice in ACC though (mainly played R3E) and I have primarily been driving the Porsches.
I am so glad you have this video! I just bought ACC and was going to test it out today. I spent 2 weeks straight figuring out set up in AMS 2. This video will GREATLY reduce that time for ACC. Thank you!!!
Something I wish someone would have told me earlier was how important it is to have the right balance in TC and ABS never knew how much a high TC setting was holding me back until I lowerd it from 3 to 1 and exited the second coner in monza and gained 3 tenths directly same for the first braking by getting it right between brake bias, brake pad, brake duct and ABS I could move my braking point a whole lot more forward
If you watch the TC light, it actually doesn't activate all that often. Mostly at race start, starting from a standstill, and when you go off-track. On-track, it rarely activates, which is why TC off hardly makes any difference. @@joshjackburns
@@AndreaP76 No they are not. In Ferrari for example map 3 is the same power as map 1 but with a less aggressive throttle pedal and thus is easier to drive.
@@AndreaP76 While in most cars #1 is the "go fast!" engine map, they differ quite a bit from car to car. Some only have for, some have 12 possible values. Best to coole "ACC Engine Map List", and just look it up for the car your driving.
I have engine map set at 1, for all races. Also, kinda handy to be able to switch to 2, if crew Chief tells you, "You don't have enough fuel to finish race." I've switched from 1 to 2, in those situations to help stretch my fuel consumption when Pit Stop not an option.
The thing with the Engine Maps is as far as I remember the different cars have the same option on different numbers. I think Porsche was on 3 or 4 whats on 1 on other Cars.
All the cars are pretty much the same, except Porche (IIRC). They vary in count as well, but most have 12 maps. 1-4 are dry, 5-8 are wet, and 9-12 are pace car. 1 is qual, 2 is normal racing, and 3 and 4 are progressive and linear economy modes. @@Vukii92
This video, along with the setup tip video, took me from absolute frustration to now enjoying the game. With the console update yesterday I dove back in after not touching ACC since last year when I purchased my PS5. Before I returned I found your advice. I began using just a couple of simple tips, primarily around tire temps and trying to be consistent lap after lap. What a game changer your tips are for me. I now am looking forward to further exploring the game.
Be careful, now that the game is updated to 1.9.x on consoles aswell, the ideal tyre pressures are anywhere between 26.1 and 26.9 psi roughly. Changing the pressure in this window will change the car balance, but not the max grip out of the tyre. If you still aim for 27.5, you are overinflated! You'll always be good to go with something around 26.5
I think you may be incorrect about the engine map settings. Aggressive preset always uses the highest power engine map even if its is not #1. This is because the numbers are different based on which car you are driving.
depends for what car. for exemple in the ferrari the "fast" maps change in power and consumption. in the porsche the power doesn't change but the throttle response does.
@@joelriva5424 aggressive preset is always max power regardless of number. Maybe you prefer different throttle pedal response but the video suggests that #1 is the highest power setting which is incorrect.
I've found the difference between engine mapping varies from car to car! There are times when having a more linear or progressive throttle is better then using the most aggressive throttle map.. It's not necessary the HP that changes. It's the window where you get the most torque and HP! It can be instant when you press the throttle or it can be progressive. The Porsche is a good example of this as it has several different engine maps. Some for qualifying, others for racing and wet weather. 7 being the most aggressive and 8 being the default. While 1-4 I believe are for race environments. Most of the eSports streams I've seen show Porsche users using 8 but technically 7 is the most aggressive. As for the ride height it can definitely affect every aspect of the cars handling! You can also achieve the same effect with proper damping and spring rates! Again every vehicle is different. The Audi for example is extremely fast with the stock aggressive set up. Where it struggles is over curbs. The ride height is a way to compensate for this but finding the right damping will result in a better more stable car over the course of the race. I pretty much Exclusively use the Audi Evo II at this point cause I find it to be a very competitive car on every track. The two most important aspect of that particular car are your damping and understanding taking it over 8100 rpms is detrimental as you suffer a massive drop in HP and torque over 8100rpms. I've found some of the mid engine cars like the Audi and the McLaren can become very unstable as you burn off fuel if you have to high of a rake.. It's important to get the suspension right vs simply compensating with the ride height! This is probably the best set up guide for a beginner I've seen to date. It's very well written and explains things in good detail. I'm not familiar with the author/s but I found it extremely helpful and full of information I didn't know even after playing the game for a few months. I apologize if the link is not allowed.. There are several out there to choose from but this one rarely comes up on people's searches. It's always Coach Dave and the other more popular channels.. trinacriasimracing.wordpress.com/acc-beginner-setup-guide/
still can't believe to this day kunos has not made most of this basic information about the cars available in the setup screen of the game. why would you not describe what each level of brake pad is designed for, why would you not say what each level of engine map is for, why would you not say what optimum tire pressures are? ACC might be a great sim but it has atrocious game design and they need to do better for AC2.
Absolutely, even AC had some decent information about each setting. Why not here? Having to search the internet to even scratch the survace of setups is ridiculous.
Just got ACC and being a Forza fiend was finding the difference huge, my times and braking was really suffering, but followed your changes and from my first race where I finished last ,having changed the settings you advised I finished fifth on the same track, so thanks, will need a wheel to get the best but these settings on my controller are working quite well now though slight adjustments for each track I expect, thanks for the video
I believe it depends on the car whether engine map 1 or highest number is the aggressive one? I think with >Porscjhe 001 GT3-R and EVO the maps work differently
I stopped playing due to the tire pressure... It can't be real that 2C changes so much the lap time... It's so annoying to change that thing all the time, specially because we have to do it while driving...
good video ChampionJoe! fast and to the point. I found out one thing which has potentially affecting my lap times - break discs. Haven't been changing these, so I am sure I was driving with break disc no. 2😅
I lower the fuel, looking at the lap time. Knowing how long the race last, so you loose a lot of weitghton Fuel (default 61L, 20 minute race you can do with 28-30 Liters). Do not know how much effect the weitght actual makes a difference in game. For all the other settings, thx. Was wondering why others where so quick and I am not lol
Sometimes is not about the setups is about the driver, for example i lap monza with the merc gt3 2015 in aggressive setup and still lapping low 48 high 47s i can only imagine what i can do with a "professional paid" setup!
I’ve known about the clipping thing for a while but I have a g920 and once I turn down the ffb enough to where I get no clipping I can barely feel the forces
This is sort of a different topic but I can’t find an answer anywhere online. I’ve not changed my setting but my wheel sensitivity randomly is very high it feels like I’m using a controller. How do I fix this. I can’t find anything in the settings
Hey! Is it possible to switch the functions of clutch and break pedals of Logitech g29 in PS4… I’ve been trying to find this for a long time but can’t find anything
about ecu maps, you spreading misinformation, for example porshe have 10 maps. PORSCHE MAPS 1-4 normal power with bunch of diffrent throttle maps (4 map is linear throttle). 5-8 high power with bunch throttle maps (8 map is linear throttle) . 9 fuel save map. 10 which is Pace car map. Every car have its own maps, and you should search it on internet to know what maps you car actually have
Have I understood this right? The Gain (FFB) setting in ACC should be as high as possible so that you can see the clipping (red) indication when in game? Would this mean I need to reduce my wheelbases FFB profile setting from 100% to a value that means I am not struggling against the strength of the wheelbase. Currently I have 100% on the wheelbase profile and have the Gain set to 50%.
Check your wheel base manufacturer to see what they recommend for both base FFB and in-game settings. I know Fanatec has a specific recommendation for ACC that balances the settings between the two for best performance.
I think the advice is generally to reduce gain in game until you eliminate most clipping, then adjust in your wheelbase settings to get the strength you are after. On my R9 I have 100% on the wheelbase and something like 80% in game.
Aggressive preset is like a lottery! Some cars/tracks it's create a very good setup and sometimes a really shitty setup! Sadly there's pretty much only one way to get a good setup, pay up!
@@snippidippi You can’t expect that you know how setups work in short notice. And there is no setup that suits everyone. Even if you pay for it, it still can be shit for you. I’ve been playing ACC for + two years now, and I can make a setup for myself that suits my style.
@Cali Steezy even if you fix yourself a setup your still forced to understand motec system to make the dampers correct and that's like 1% of playerbase that understands that
@@snippidippi Setting the dampers right is only to tweak it to ‘perfection’, but won’t give you that much laptime. As long you can tweak the other settings to your liking, you’re good to go. I agree, it’s pretty hard to understand what all the options can do to a car, but that’s just how it is. It’s called a simulation for a reason.
Right now i'm playing with keyboard (dont have the money yet for a good steering wheel) The problem is that while i'm racing the car electronincs menu randomly pops up, making my car steerles. What basically happens is that when this menu pops up randomly, the keyboard is active in the electronics menu. And this is resulting in an in-active steering wheel, that is resulting in crashing my car. When this menu appears in mid-race, i constanly i have to press the key to make close it again. Does anybody got a sollution to stop this electronic menu from popping up randomly, even when i'm not driving in the pits? Thank you in advance for your help.
Yeah, It's the outlier in this. Overall the engine mappping is bit more complex then shown in the video. But for a rough idea it should help some people!
The stock settings make you a slow driver. THEN you have to retrain yourself for the braking points, the apex acceleration points and your gear for corners. You actually do yourself an injustice by learning the ropes with default setups. First thing is deal with the toe and camber settings. Its literally a cheat code. You wont know how a car feels until you do. Then brake bias. Then ride height. Youve probably already learned fuel and tire temps by now. But you dont fix toe and camber, turn your pc off and go mow the yard.
yeah knowing this i just refunded it. im trying to find a (graphiclly realistic) but yet arachidic racing sim. this game is too much, i gotta worry about PSI, TEMP, STEER POWER, IF MY CHARACTER HAS TO PISS, WEATHER I'LL OVERSTEER OR UNDERSTEER SO IT RESULTS IN SLOW ASS GAMEPLAY. its just not for me.
The 1st thing you should change is the fuel. The brakes though are as follows: 1- Qualifying 2- Race 3- Rain 4- Endurance I haven't compared how 1/2 feel after 30 minutes specifically but I definitely would expect some inconsistency in #1 And I assume you meant 26.7psi - 27.7 is too high. But that's a huge error for beginners.
You can experiment with the Lock to Horizon setting in the Camera Settings>Motion section of the pause menu, but a much better option is using an external program called Real Head Motion. It basically does what your vestibular system would do in a real car. th-cam.com/video/8E4sQxm9XCQ/w-d-xo.html
Yeah I run an R5 as well and this is the only game that makes me feel like I have to crank the ffb down so low that it’s just flat out weak. I don’t understand it
Shouldn't all this info (on brakes, engine maps, ..) be included in the description in game, on the right bar? I cannot understand why one would have to google it
I know this is a year old video!!! But I heard you say “rule of thump” instead of Rule of Thumb! There is no “P” in the word Thumb haha just a heads up brother
Quite disappointing the game in theme of information, there are hardly no Information in game about all these sett, would be great if in career mode they would have explained those settings.I mean, no excuse any longer than using Unreal engine, they could have easily integrated the important tips .....
What I reallllllllly wish is that the game companies offered a very detailed online booklet that has a more clear understanding of each adjustments offered in a way for all users to understand. I get why they stopped booklets due to online purchases of virtual discs, but doesn’t mean virtual booklets should have been removed too. Especially that games are more higher priced now too. Step it up game companies… as the details in the in game details aren’t so clear at times… perhaps even diagram pics of what is in fact changing…just sayin.
Fr. The main reason why I have to look out for built setups is because I haven‘t got the time to test what each setting does to the car… there is a setup guide by Driver61 (just search Driver61 setup guide) which says what to change when you experience understeer, oversteer etc. in different situations but even that is sometimes hard to manage
I remember buying a rally game back in 2005 called Colin McRae rally 04, it used to come with a booklet exactly as you're describing. It helped me get into SIM racing
Pls stop spreading misinformation and buying into the myth about brake pads, pad 2 is in the preset for a reason and it’s not endurance. Pads 1 performance is higher only in a strict temperature window which most beginners won’t have control of and even then difference is laughably low, they are more aggressive and harder to control with way less progressive feel, while pad 2 is way more progressive, easier to brake with, operates in way bigger temperature range and will enable every beginner to understand his pedal work better. Pad 2 is a better pad to use with no performance inpact even in a competitive environment
Yes! Also engine map1 is not always the highest performing and the "new" (it's out for like 1.5 years now) DHE tyres should be between 27.3-27.8...
For anyone who doesn't know, this guy is perhaps one of the fastest ACC drivers out there.
Like Porsche 8 is the fastest engine map
This is why we as a community are just better ❤ Thanks for clearing that up! I just learned, that Pad one had the better performance and in return they don't last as long. Clearly my mistake then 😅 - Regards, Joe
If Tortellinii says so, I will stop changing to Pad 1
I’ve been running Aggressive and only changing the fuel. Never had time to dig deeper. After one quick race against the AI (Misano) I can say, ACC is way more fun now thanks to your advice. Just set a PB and worked my way from 12th to 2nd. I struggled there previously. Thanks for the video.
I'm really glad I could help 😎 Keep pushing!
Tested the Audi yesterday at Spa. Lowered it and adjusted the wing (from default aggressive) and gained 2.5 seconds!! on a lap. To note is that on Monza I found it quite ok with default aggressive, only changed the pads. I am novice in ACC though (mainly played R3E) and I have primarily been driving the Porsches.
I am so glad you have this video! I just bought ACC and was going to test it out today. I spent 2 weeks straight figuring out set up in AMS 2. This video will GREATLY reduce that time for ACC.
Thank you!!!
I have been playing ACC at a high level for 2 years and I use pad #2 for 6 months now and I like it better and wished no one would of told me to use 1
Something I wish someone would have told me earlier was how important it is to have the right balance in TC and ABS never knew how much a high TC setting was holding me back until I lowerd it from 3 to 1 and exited the second coner in monza and gained 3 tenths directly same for the first braking by getting it right between brake bias, brake pad, brake duct and ABS I could move my braking point a whole lot more forward
Plz share ur setup i have Championschip IN QRT im new to the game. Those Guys eat me like a snack. Im in Bentley Tomorrow on Brands hatch. Plz help
I always had ABS at 2 while TC at off. Got the best feeling out of the car that way, even on endurance races
If you watch the TC light, it actually doesn't activate all that often. Mostly at race start, starting from a standstill, and when you go off-track. On-track, it rarely activates, which is why TC off hardly makes any difference. @@joshjackburns
Engine map numbers are different for different cars
If I remember correctly they're the same for every car except the Porsche.
@@AndreaP76 No they are not. In Ferrari for example map 3 is the same power as map 1 but with a less aggressive throttle pedal and thus is easier to drive.
@@AndreaP76 While in most cars #1 is the "go fast!" engine map, they differ quite a bit from car to car. Some only have for, some have 12 possible values. Best to coole "ACC Engine Map List", and just look it up for the car your driving.
Porsche map 8 is fastest
Would definitely appreciate a full breakdown of the details of each engine map setting
TraxionGG have a video on them.
each car is different. there is a site that has each car name with each map descritions
@@jameszanghi3564 link or name of site please?
@@TWOhype23 idk I just googled it one day and it came up like. "Engine map on acc descriptions"
I have engine map set at 1, for all races. Also, kinda handy to be able to switch to 2, if crew Chief tells you, "You don't have enough fuel to finish race."
I've switched from 1 to 2, in those situations to help stretch my fuel consumption when Pit Stop not an option.
I've been watching GT racing for years, and never hear the expression "crew chief" before. It sounds very nascar-sh.
The thing with the Engine Maps is as far as I remember the different cars have the same option on different numbers. I think Porsche was on 3 or 4 whats on 1 on other Cars.
All the cars are pretty much the same, except Porche (IIRC). They vary in count as well, but most have 12 maps. 1-4 are dry, 5-8 are wet, and 9-12 are pace car. 1 is qual, 2 is normal racing, and 3 and 4 are progressive and linear economy modes. @@Vukii92
I am having a problem using a McLaren or Ferrari. It’s starts at the pit but when I put it in first the engine cuts off. What am I doing wrong?
Do you maybe have the pit limiter manually switched on?
This video, along with the setup tip video, took me from absolute frustration to now enjoying the game. With the console update yesterday I dove back in after not touching ACC since last year when I purchased my PS5. Before I returned I found your advice. I began using just a couple of simple tips, primarily around tire temps and trying to be consistent lap after lap. What a game changer your tips are for me. I now am looking forward to further exploring the game.
Be careful, now that the game is updated to 1.9.x on consoles aswell, the ideal tyre pressures are anywhere between 26.1 and 26.9 psi roughly. Changing the pressure in this window will change the car balance, but not the max grip out of the tyre. If you still aim for 27.5, you are overinflated!
You'll always be good to go with something around 26.5
I think you may be incorrect about the engine map settings. Aggressive preset always uses the highest power engine map even if its is not #1. This is because the numbers are different based on which car you are driving.
depends for what car. for exemple in the ferrari the "fast" maps change in power and consumption. in the porsche the power doesn't change but the throttle response does.
@@joelriva5424 aggressive preset is always max power regardless of number. Maybe you prefer different throttle pedal response but the video suggests that #1 is the highest power setting which is incorrect.
idk why they dont put a text box in game expaling this stuff.
I've found the difference between engine mapping varies from car to car! There are times when having a more linear or progressive throttle is better then using the most aggressive throttle map..
It's not necessary the HP that changes. It's the window where you get the most torque and HP! It can be instant when you press the throttle or it can be progressive.
The Porsche is a good example of this as it has several different engine maps. Some for qualifying, others for racing and wet weather. 7 being the most aggressive and 8 being the default. While 1-4 I believe are for race environments. Most of the eSports streams I've seen show Porsche users using 8 but technically 7 is the most aggressive.
As for the ride height it can definitely affect every aspect of the cars handling! You can also achieve the same effect with proper damping and spring rates!
Again every vehicle is different. The Audi for example is extremely fast with the stock aggressive set up. Where it struggles is over curbs.
The ride height is a way to compensate for this but finding the right damping will result in a better more stable car over the course of the race. I pretty much Exclusively use the Audi Evo II at this point cause I find it to be a very competitive car on every track. The two most important aspect of that particular car are your damping and understanding taking it over 8100 rpms is detrimental as you suffer a massive drop in HP and torque over 8100rpms.
I've found some of the mid engine cars like the Audi and the McLaren can become very unstable as you burn off fuel if you have to high of a rake.. It's important to get the suspension right vs simply compensating with the ride height!
This is probably the best set up guide for a beginner I've seen to date. It's very well written and explains things in good detail. I'm not familiar with the author/s but I found it extremely helpful and full of information I didn't know even after playing the game for a few months.
I apologize if the link is not allowed.. There are several out there to choose from but this one rarely comes up on people's searches. It's always Coach Dave and the other more popular channels..
trinacriasimracing.wordpress.com/acc-beginner-setup-guide/
google ACC Engine Map List
Thanks for posting this link!
As some who watches @jardier I can agree this goes hand in hand!👏🏻
still can't believe to this day kunos has not made most of this basic information about the cars available in the setup screen of the game. why would you not describe what each level of brake pad is designed for, why would you not say what each level of engine map is for, why would you not say what optimum tire pressures are? ACC might be a great sim but it has atrocious game design and they need to do better for AC2.
Absolutely, even AC had some decent information about each setting. Why not here? Having to search the internet to even scratch the survace of setups is ridiculous.
Just got ACC and being a Forza fiend was finding the difference huge, my times and braking was really suffering, but followed your changes and from my first race where I finished last ,having changed the settings you advised I finished fifth on the same track, so thanks, will need a wheel to get the best but these settings on my controller are working quite well now though slight adjustments for each track I expect, thanks for the video
yes engine mapping tutorial would be awesome!
I believe it depends on the car whether engine map 1 or highest number is the aggressive one? I think with >Porscjhe 001 GT3-R and EVO the maps work differently
Yes! Yes! Full set up tutorial please! Thank you!❤
Perfect explanation for a beginner but could be done in 3-5 mins!
I stopped playing due to the tire pressure... It can't be real that 2C changes so much the lap time... It's so annoying to change that thing all the time, specially because we have to do it while driving...
Awesome Video!
I would love a video/ more videos about all the setup options!
You've got my sub :D
FFB clipping. Was on 100% and had to go down to 80%. Thnx for the tip.
Awesome tips. Full breakdown of the ECU would be cool.
Fantastic Videos as usual! And YES......Engine Mapping Video would be much appreciated!
Great conversation on comments section. Thanks for your time
More tips please.
FOR EACH CAR.
IN EACH CLASS.
IN EACH WEATHER.
FOR EACH TRACK.
DEAL?
DEAL.
good video ChampionJoe! fast and to the point. I found out one thing which has potentially affecting my lap times - break discs. Haven't been changing these, so I am sure I was driving with break disc no. 2😅
I lower the fuel, looking at the lap time. Knowing how long the race last, so you loose a lot of weitghton Fuel (default 61L, 20 minute race you can do with 28-30 Liters). Do not know how much effect the weitght actual makes a difference in game.
For all the other settings, thx. Was wondering why others where so quick and I am not lol
You should tell that e.g. Porsche has different settings for maps. Map 1 in this car means low power…
It’s important for people to know that ideal pressures are now 26.8-27.0
That’s pretty narrow though, I thought it was between 26.0 - 27.0?
@@fioralbannach6647 yea it is
Wow, thanks I was still going for 27.6
This info is gold for a beginner like me! Thanks a lot!
YES please a tutorial on engine mappings would be awesome. Are all the engine mapping numbers the same in every car?
ACC Engine Map List
Hi can you tell me if it’s possible to remap Accelerate / Brake and steering all from the D-Pad?
Thks so much for this info ....gonna try and let you now bro....👍💪
How do you hide the driver list on the bottom left corner? Thanks
The game is called "Race Setup" in English, That's the name of the game, setup cars and race
Sometimes is not about the setups is about the driver, for example i lap monza with the merc gt3 2015 in aggressive setup and still lapping low 48 high 47s i can only imagine what i can do with a "professional paid" setup!
Ecu map 1 is not always the fastest one.
At the porsche it is map 8 and not 1.
it's different for every car, you need to look up a table for your car to find the one with highest output.
@@adolfobisi6027 ACC Engine Map List
I’ve known about the clipping thing for a while but I have a g920 and once I turn down the ffb enough to where I get no clipping I can barely feel the forces
Some clipping is ok just not to much
I've always found it interesting how guys who have never driven a race car, are able to criticize a sim for not feeling "real".
Fantastic video thanks for the advice!
Wow. Essential viewing. Thx.
This is sort of a different topic but I can’t find an answer anywhere online. I’ve not changed my setting but my wheel sensitivity randomly is very high it feels like I’m using a controller. How do I fix this. I can’t find anything in the settings
Do u set steering ratio? I always go for lowest number . Is it correct?
It varies from car to car. It impacts how much you have to turn the wheel to get the same rotation. Just go with whatever feels comfortable.
What about the ride height of the Audi? it's higher at the front and if I make a positive % like most other cars, it stalls the aero....
Thanks so much!
A couple of real gt3 drivers have come out and said the only realist part of ACC is the tire wear physics
Thanks just got the game I was getting destroyed why is my car so slow on the straights litterally less hp.
What is the frequency setting for in the wheel menu
afiak tire pressure optimums with 1.9 just changed. So maybe and update for this would be nice.
Thank you for this!
man this is super helpful thanks
Great video
VR Camera lock in position, so it wont reset or save it?
Hey! Is it possible to switch the functions of clutch and break pedals of Logitech g29 in PS4… I’ve been trying to find this for a long time but can’t find anything
Holy sheep dip! this vid made my man parts tingle started sim racing about a year ago and I'm about 6 months into ACC. Thanks for the great tips!
think maybe you overlooked the most important reason, ..owning a steering wheel..p but jokes aside, or not; thx for these.
The brakes and tires. Noooobody knows what the numbers really are in the beginning. Not a single explanation of what the numbers stand for🤯
Ty 👍
7:48 tamburello 😭😭😭 R.I.P. SENNA THE NUMBER 1 OF ALL TIMES
about ecu maps, you spreading misinformation, for example porshe have 10 maps.
PORSCHE MAPS
1-4 normal power with bunch of diffrent throttle maps (4 map is linear throttle).
5-8 high power with bunch throttle maps (8 map is linear throttle) .
9 fuel save map.
10 which is Pace car map.
Every car have its own maps, and you should search it on internet to know what maps you car actually have
Have I understood this right? The Gain (FFB) setting in ACC should be as high as possible so that you can see the clipping (red) indication when in game? Would this mean I need to reduce my wheelbases FFB profile setting from 100% to a value that means I am not struggling against the strength of the wheelbase. Currently I have 100% on the wheelbase profile and have the Gain set to 50%.
Sorry if it wasn't clear enough in the video! Your goal shoud be to have as view clipping moments as possible. So having the bar red = bad.
Check your wheel base manufacturer to see what they recommend for both base FFB and in-game settings. I know Fanatec has a specific recommendation for ACC that balances the settings between the two for best performance.
Fanatec DD1 here at 75% FFB via Fanalab and 75% ingame gain. 100% dynamic damping, rest at 0%. 400hz frequency. Feels good to me. 😊
I think the advice is generally to reduce gain in game until you eliminate most clipping, then adjust in your wheelbase settings to get the strength you are after.
On my R9 I have 100% on the wheelbase and something like 80% in game.
Most advice I've seen Online is to use 100% on the wheel software and set the gain ingame to your liking.
Anybody know whats the best driving setting for
ACC on a logi g920??
My common issue is, when I press brakes, my steering less respond.
Really quite surprised you would give wrong information on engine maps.
Where does 27.7 came from on tyre pressure?
is it compatable with logitech steering wheel ?
Can you please do a set up for engine mapping the Maclaren series please
Hey there, what exactly do you mean? Do you just need info which map does what on the McLaren GT3? - Rene
every time I do a preset on a car and save it. its gone the next day. am i doing something wrong?
Aggressive preset is like a lottery! Some cars/tracks it's create a very good setup and sometimes a really shitty setup! Sadly there's pretty much only one way to get a good setup, pay up!
Or try to learn to set up a car by yourself
@Cali Steezy if you have the effort to watch 50+ YT clips then yes, acc/kunos won't help you haha
@@snippidippi You can’t expect that you know how setups work in short notice. And there is no setup that suits everyone. Even if you pay for it, it still can be shit for you. I’ve been playing ACC for + two years now, and I can make a setup for myself that suits my style.
@Cali Steezy even if you fix yourself a setup your still forced to understand motec system to make the dampers correct and that's like 1% of playerbase that understands that
@@snippidippi Setting the dampers right is only to tweak it to ‘perfection’, but won’t give you that much laptime. As long you can tweak the other settings to your liking, you’re good to go.
I agree, it’s pretty hard to understand what all the options can do to a car, but that’s just how it is. It’s called a simulation for a reason.
Joe has stolen Rene's hoodie!
YES!
For anyone watching this now, tire pressure seems to want 26.8 psi after 1.9
Right now i'm playing with keyboard (dont have the money yet for a good steering wheel)
The problem is that while i'm racing the car electronincs menu randomly pops up, making my car steerles.
What basically happens is that when this menu pops up randomly, the keyboard is active in the electronics menu.
And this is resulting in an in-active steering wheel, that is resulting in crashing my car.
When this menu appears in mid-race, i constanly i have to press the key to make close it again.
Does anybody got a sollution to stop this electronic menu from popping up randomly, even when i'm not driving in the pits?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Gief engine mapping tutorial! :D
Wouldn't it have more downforce if u raise the rear and lower the front?
Yes but it wouldn't be efficient
yes do the full tutorial plz
I am running a completely unrealistic custom setup!
Porsche drivers go : Nope, 8 is better 🙈😉
Yeah, It's the outlier in this. Overall the engine mappping is bit more complex then shown in the video. But for a rough idea it should help some people!
Pls make a FFB setting video in normal Assetto Corsa
The stock settings make you a slow driver. THEN you have to retrain yourself for the braking points, the apex acceleration points and your gear for corners. You actually do yourself an injustice by learning the ropes with default setups. First thing is deal with the toe and camber settings. Its literally a cheat code. You wont know how a car feels until you do. Then brake bias. Then ride height. Youve probably already learned fuel and tire temps by now. But you dont fix toe and camber, turn your pc off and go mow the yard.
what toe and camber should be set to? or where do I find that info?
Or you just skip all of that and just enjoy the racing.
yeah knowing this i just refunded it. im trying to find a (graphiclly realistic) but yet arachidic racing sim. this game is too much, i gotta worry about PSI, TEMP, STEER POWER, IF MY CHARACTER HAS TO PISS, WEATHER I'LL OVERSTEER OR UNDERSTEER SO IT RESULTS IN SLOW ASS GAMEPLAY. its just not for me.
The 1st thing you should change is the fuel.
The brakes though are as follows:
1- Qualifying
2- Race
3- Rain
4- Endurance
I haven't compared how 1/2 feel after 30 minutes specifically but I definitely would expect some inconsistency in #1
And I assume you meant 26.7psi - 27.7 is too high. But that's a huge error for beginners.
in the normal one i keep losing control
How remove time table list assetto corsa competizioni?
Please make an engine map video
HONDA Drivers: Map 4 is fastest, fyi 🏁
How do I stop the shaky view whilst driving its making me feel sick
You can experiment with the Lock to Horizon setting in the Camera Settings>Motion section of the pause menu, but a much better option is using an external program called Real Head Motion. It basically does what your vestibular system would do in a real car. th-cam.com/video/8E4sQxm9XCQ/w-d-xo.html
What about brake bias tho! Can you do it while racing or has to be done before you star you didn't talk about break bass!
1. Turn sharpness down to 0 so thegame doesnt look ugly
I can’t turn left why is it so hard to turn
I hate the FFB, it’s way to weak. It feels like my old T150. I run a DD Moza Base the R5
Have you seen the boosted media Moza video? I found his settings helped to get better feel on my R9.
Yeah I run an R5 as well and this is the only game that makes me feel like I have to crank the ffb down so low that it’s just flat out weak. I don’t understand it
learning number 3 for the first time after so long lol, i feel stupid
Well, I'd say it's time to update this video.
Shouldn't all this info (on brakes, engine maps, ..) be included in the description in game, on the right bar? I cannot understand why one would have to google it
I know this is a year old video!!! But I heard you say “rule of thump” instead of Rule of Thumb! There is no “P” in the word Thumb haha just a heads up brother
Quite disappointing the game in theme of information, there are hardly no Information in game about all these sett, would be great if in career mode they would have explained those settings.I mean, no excuse any longer than using Unreal engine, they could have easily integrated the important tips .....
I can t steer when im taking my foot of accelerate pedalllll
It's called lift off understeer!
honda needs engine map 4 as its the fastest map so please dont always set map 1 👍👍 your info here was incorrect