This is the BEST CHEAP CAR MOUNT.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มิ.ย. 2024
- This is the BEST BUDGET car mount
Buy it here - amzn.to/3NPwMSz
My two favorite pieces of fitness/tech that I swear by. (I've been a personal trainer for 20 years) WHOOP (my favorite fitness tracker) - join.whoop.com/BrandonT
8Sleeps POD3 (The best night sleep of your life) - (Use code "BRANDON") - eight-sleep.ioym.net/Brandon
Got a question? Let me know in the comments.
Here's a Link to EVERYTHING I use to make these videos. kit.co/BrandonTalbot/the-studio
Hey Everybody! couple of things.
Filming at high noon isn't a great idea. Even with a polarizer there's a TON of glare. You can see how important lighting is even when you have the right gear. I did film a big section on this, but I cut it because the video was getting too long.
I also had a section of me going through how to use it, but it's so simple to use I didn't think it was necessary so I also cut that from the video.
If you've got any questions let me know.
Kessler arcaswiss plates just work. As for the KillShock, don’t skimp. If it looks like a KillShock but sold by someone else, that means its been copied from the Killshock. Making stuff costs a ton of money. Support creators, not copiers. Also, secure your lens with a rod system, not using their 4th suction cup. Take that 4th cup and magic arm and secure it to the top of your camera. That will do wonders for shake. It won’t eliminate it but it will get rid of the vibrations in the rig that travel to the camera and make it wiggle.
Scott these are awesome suggestions and I know how much faith you put into Kessler
Good seeing my neighborhood in the background. Thanks for the video. Trying to decide which system to buy for my Ronin 4d and Flex system.
Hmmm not sure if this is the system that would suit your needs the best. But if you're using the flex you might not need something beefier.
Bought exact same setup few days ago. While the mount feels sturdy I Bought another 6inch suction cup as extra safety.
First tests came out very shaky. Sony A7IV Not usable
Bought a vibration isolator plus base for RS2 Gimbal (around $230). While much better, those micro vibration were pretty high.
Next I found out turning off ibis and reducing stiffness of the gimbal will help. Indeed it helped a lot. Now much more usable footage. Can work with it however there are still microshakes.
I saw on B&H another vibration isolator then another layer of rubber shock absorber. (4 little feet)...I don't know if those will help, in theory yes, however no reviews about them so kind of afraid to lose $240 and find out won't improve.
I want so badly to get rid of those micro vibration.
P.S I also bought few more good accessories that helps to secure the mount in case something goes wrong.
Yeah ibis is nice in a few video applications but in more situations than not it’s going to ruin footage. Get the camera as heavy as you possibly can is always a good rule of thumb for steady footage without a gimbal.
In regards to your mounting solution I recommend a camera cage with a built in arca swiss mount. Preferably one on the bottom and side for vertical shots. This is how I run my a74 on my rs2 with the hydra alien. I did a lot of testing before ending up with this and it seems to be the most secure and the quickest to set up. Just make sure that what ever cage this ends up being has rly secure connections to the camera, in my case the smallrig one for the a74 is rock solid.
Before I figured that out I was running it with an extended rs2 plate from small rig with 2 screws. Never came loose but this is a much quicker and more secure solution from my testing. The single screw down on the rs2 would send it flying for anyone crazy enough to try it. You've been warned.
Amazing video! So helpful.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome piece of kit! Great video dude.
Thanks a bunch stud!
Stakes are high! Will it work? Nice car shots, don't forget the polarizer filter to cut the reflections off the windows. Great reviews and glad the plate didn't come completely loose.
Oh I used one!!! Haha high noon just cut its effectiveness
Thanks for the great review!! I got Ronin4D and have to shoot an inside and outside car shots. Of course R4D has a Z-axis stabilization but do you think Smallrig car mount and R4D will handle and absorb also this smal shocks?
Why would you not just spend an extra couple hundred dollars and get the matthews car mount? Its probably way more robust, not made in china and has an actual leveling ball head. Go up a couple more hundred dollars and you get the master car mount from matthews that's even more stable with a ten inch suction cup. Also, you get jitters because you're not triangulating your camera. You have several arms that run to the bottom but nothing running to the top. Getting rid of the shake is not about adding a gimbal, its about making the camera a part of the car. Adding an arm going to the top and having the cups more spread out on the vehicle would help a lot with this, but since you're using lightweight tension arms instead of steel c stand arms or speedrail you're always going to have a bit of shake. I'd encourage you to watch cinemilled videos on car rigging. As a working grip who does car rigs often, they're some of the best I've seen. Even if you're not using a heavy duty rig like he is, the concepts still apply, and your footage will be much better.
I didn't know about it. Thanks for the tips though!
Great review Brandon!
Hey hey thanks Josh!
Well now I know what to buy if a camera team on a gig needs a solid but inexpensive car mount. Great review and breakdown, Brandon!
Thanks Matthew!! Hope you’re well buddy
Did i get this wrong or miss something. TH-cam title reads, "This is the BEST CHEAP CAR MOUNT." I went to link expecting the price to me not too bad & saw it on the USA Amazon link for $449.00 USD. Is that the correct, it that price of a budget car mount? I guess those mounts cost more than I thought. Really nice video.
No you read it right. Car mounts really good “entry” car mounts start at like $1,200
This is Awesome, i´m looking into buying either a suction cup or a magnet car mount setup so this helps.. Thanks,
Glad it helped😊
I looked at the smallRig one, nice review. I may purchase now
Wish I dropped it two days ago so you could take advantage of the prime day deal!
I have found a killshock for a hard mount ends up often introducing more vibration and unwanted movement unfortunately. Works great for hanging gimbals. But just adding another point of contact to the camera, other than the bottom mount will go a long way. It tends to look better to let the camera shake with the car when hard mounting.
If you get one that can be fine tuned so it has just the right amount of force for your camera payload it can work but it takes some effort.
Honestly though any small vibrations are nice and easy to stabilize on a global shutter camera it's glorious. All comes down to avoiding vibrations strong enough that they start generating weird motion blur. Personally I kind of like a little vibration if you are trying to capture someone driving a car fast.
Really good to know about a killshock. Have you used one attached to a gimbal?
And definitely for
Faster action the vibration is welcome:)
@@caffeinatedcameras yeah pretty much a necessity for hanging or mounting a gimbal, it helps the gimbal maintain a stable base to work from and let the stability control work as expected.
I think for hard mounting a killshock would need a damper as well as the springs. Would be interesting to try to make one that integrates 4 pivoting dampers.
Good to know man! Thank you.
@@caffeinatedcameras I know this reply is super late, but what haaake said is right. I've done a handful of hard mounted shots, and a killshock is the last thing you want. When you're hard mounting the idea is to have the camera become one with the car frame. If you were to try a "hard mount shot" with a gimbal and a killshock it would look floaty, and not like the camera is part of the car. A scenario where you would want a gimbal and killshock is if you were shooting away from the car (example: tracking another car.) For hard mounting, the best option is to have multiple points of contact to the camera. If you're only contacting the bottom of the camera, all the weight and inertia at the top of the camera is going to swing around causing vibrations. This gets worse when you're using bigger cinema rigs because there is more mass which creates more inertia. What I do when rigging hard mounts is using a gobo arm, 2 grip heads, and something to mount with (another suction or a clamp of some sort.) It's best that you create a triangle with 2nd point of contact, but that's not always possible so make do with what you can.
Sweet suggestion! Thanks man. @@thedopjan
Blue Loctie. Should do the trick.
You need a very hard bushing Made at home from inertibe material . Use a washer and a eated nail to make the hole
🙏🏽👍🏼
You could try a cage with a arca swiss built into the cage if they do one. Then it cant come lose.
I’ve tried a ton of different plates but the ball head seems to only work with the one it comes with
You are sick and bro I love you for that 😂😂. Love your script
🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Is there a point when you push the pump and it does not go in further? Base on the instruction during the installation when the line disappears, the pump eventually gets stuck and can not go in further but I kept pushing mine after the line is gone but it seems like it is going to go forever😅
Nope just pump it till the line disappears and you’re good to go
Im going to use a dji pocket 3 for inside and outside of the car. Sadly it's very sensitive to vibration. Do you got any idea what I could do and what to buy to make the footage as good as possible?
Well unfortunately anything light and small is going to be susceptible to vibration. The heavier the better. Even the combo I used is not really heavy enough
Nice! Thinking of grabbing this for an upcoming shoot with my OG Komodo. Question; is there any way to just not use the half bowl mount? Seems sketchy and I think odd like to just bypass all together if possible.
I’m not sure I’ll have to tinker with it
@@caffeinatedcameras just got mine in. Going to toy around with mounting it directly to my Komodo via nato. Will let you know how it goes.
Thanks I’d love to know
To fix the Arca swiss plate issue you basically need a camera cage. I would assume that most people into filming already have a cage anyway
Its not a cage issue unfortunately, the actual arca Swiss head is so shallow that it will only bite onto the plate it comes with
Nato rail isnt very shake proof.
It’s working for me but maybe not for you.
Yup. Sure, story matters but if your gear is a hinderance to the type of story you're trying to tell then it does matter.
100%
Je ! Merci 🎥🎬
You’re welcome!
I’m sorry but wtf did I click on a documentary on Count? 3:44
I’m not sure 🤷🏽♂️
@@caffeinatedcameras great work tho 👍
I just got the Ulanzi suction cup and it's very strong and nicely made but the reach is restrictive. The articulated arm in the kit you got is cool as it has great reach. I wonder if it would fit the Ulanzi suction mount?
300$*??
Correct
Promo>SM 💯
I have no affiliation with smallrig just FYI
Love this, another creator recommend the Tilta Hydra to me, but I'm not shooting on a car that often to justify the cost. But really appreciate you sharing the small rig system. I have found that Ulanzi and small rig make some really amazing product at very reasonable prices. I'm the in house creative for Diesel Performance shop in Phoenix and most of what we do here aside from Service and Repair, most of the guys in the shop are drag racers and we develop our own aftermarket diesel parts. A couple of years ago we purchases some prefab and CNC machines to start production of those parts in house and to make it easier to prototype new product. When we got that equipment, I decided I wanted to put my gopros and camera gear (not a red, but not something I wanted to or could easily replace either) in side those machines to show them at work... after doing a lot of searching and going cheap and testing said cheap product, i realized I was going to have to be willing to put a little more effort and money in a better solution. It wasn't just my gear on the line, but my company's very expensive production equipment. The fact that the owners thought my idea was good one, is still a head scratcher. But they trusted me with it so I dug in and I came across some reviews on Amazon and youtube that small rig had some great mounting options. I ended up going with 4 2 suction cup small rig mounts with their small magic arms for the GoPros and a 4 suction cup one for my bigger camera. Although they need to be placed on a smooth clean surface to a get a really good seal, they rocked and held up really well I left the mounts in our big CNC machine for the better of a week just to see how the would hold up and they never slipped or moved, well worth the money. I don't know that I'd use these mounts to mount on the outside of a car o truck, but did use the 2 suction cup mounts for the gopros and ran them inside our racing trucks last year. We're racing again next weekend and thinking of getting the bigger mounting system and running a Z8 on it, but inside the trucks, the NHRDA will only let racers run cameras if they're bolted down. Great review thank you. Just subscribed!
Thanks man glad you enjoyed it! Have fun with this little rig at the diesel performance shop!