@@schrenkmedia I’m not knocking folks who are on a budget, I’m knocking folks who pull stupid stunts that put their indispensable cameras at great risk for no good reason. At this point I’d buy an osmo pocket 3 for roller shots. It’s not cheap, but I’d rather lose one of those any day over my primary camera.
I just bought the tilta hyra alien camera mount rig and after doing one shoot the whole system fell. luckily my gear is still in tact and works but after seeing this I am building it this way. Love the video
Oh man! Sorry to hear that! Suction cup mounts can be fine, but you. Have to really know proper mounting techniques. They have to be checked very often, and have to be ratchet strapped to the vehicle. You also have to prep the surface, and always keep the suction cups covered when not in use. You’re also limited on what parts of the vehicle you can attach it to. That said, hopefully this guide gives you some direction going forward !
Just got a tilta hydra alien with an rs2 as a budget entry to these shots and this video alone contains more info than hours of other tutorials, thank you for the detailed explanation Also kudos for keeping in the mistake of the bar falling, helps remind us that mistakes happen and it's ok
Really appreciate the feedback. I almost got the Tilta arm, and there is absolutely nothing wrong with rocking it. I was just personally uncomfortable with suction only, as you should check the cups frequently, and I’m too lazy to. 😂😂
Really love how in depth this video is, loads of information! Been researching and thinking of getting the smallrig SC-15K which is a suction mount style, but in the future a full rig is definitely the goal! Very surprised that your channel isnt huge! its great quality stuff mate
Suction is DEFINITELY cheaper and quicker, although you MUST ratchet strap it to the car as a fail safe. I’ve seen videos of suction cups losing suction and arm with cameras get destroyed. The ratchet strap will prevent it from hitting the road if that were to ever happen. Appreciate you giving it a watch!
Amazing video and super comprehensive! If I could add something that might be helpful to others running an RS2 in this type of setup would be to plug everything thing in before connecting to the V-Mount battery. I learned the hard way frying two RS2s before learning the proper protocol. The RS3 Pro was not susceptible this way but I would follow that same protocol going forward. Also, your GPS module tip is spot on! Works even better on the RS3 Pro with the upgraded motors. Footage is super steady.
Hey I hope you see this and get a chance to reply before this weekend. Haha…I’m gonna be running my rs2 this weekend but with the hydra. I believe the connection to gimbal for power is essentially the same deal so I was curious about the power up sequence that you follow now. Are you plugging all things on the gimbal into the gimbal first and then sending power to the gimbal with the lemo to d-tap cable? For context, I have the v-mount plate for the rs2 that replaces the original mounting plate on the gimbal itself. I usually power my camera via the 2 pin lemo on that v-mount mounting plate but it seems like there are possible points of failure with various devices and their power draw.
Great detailed video Robert! Currently in the process of building a rig for my car & this video helped out a lot! Could you share a link for the "Global Truss" clamps you used on your Wingbar Evo or lmk the full name of the specific clamps?
Love this detailed video!! I am friends with Jacob and he has also recommended this proaim arm to me as well. There are barely any vides on the web for the arm, so this was fun to watch in detail. I plan to run this similar setup soon. You should make a part 2 if you get a chance!
Appreciate the kind words! I was gonna do a part two but then I sold the Porsche for a truck and then it got 30 below. lol. I'll make an interior build video in the next month or two when it's warmer!
Appreciate it! It’s a long video, but it’s everything I was looking for when trying to build my rig, so hopefully it helps someone! Thanks for watching!
Greatly enjoyed the video. I totally gonna do a budget, budget version with my wife’s Kia Telluride hahaha 😅. I like the insights from the video. Might have to come up with a reason to build something like this. I made a stabilizing arm from scratch a few years ago. Maybe it time to start V2 in 2024.
If I was just going off the back or front, and not both simultaneously, it would roughly break down to the following. Everything is linked in the description. (3) 6’ Black Speedrail = $300 (1) 4’ Black Speedrail = $80 (6) Swivel Clamps = $240 (3) Single Clamps = $75 Hitch extender = $30 (2) Anti Vibration Plates for hitch = $40 ProAim Arm = $1,500 RS2 = $600 RS2 Base Expansion Kit = $500 Then you just need a long HDMI to run the camera to the inside and hook a monitor up to the hand control that comes in tge RS2 base expansion kit.
You can simplify your rear hitch connection mounting bars by just drilling a new hitch pin hole that is 90 degrees from the original hole so that it makes the trailer ball flange 90 degrees from normal and that means that your bar clamp will be vertical just like your front. That means that you don't have to have all the additional cross bars to make it vertical
You really want the horizontal bar first so that there is a secondary bar there to create a triangle partially up the vertical speed rail. This is because if the single vertical rail works loose and slips, the other rail is keeping it in place. This actually happened to Jacob from Golden Peaks Productions and his rig hit the pavement. More times it’s about having a fail safe than simplicity.
I haven’t used it. Looks like they’re using a shock as the main dampener instead of a spring. I honestly have no clue how much of a difference that will make. Wish I could be of more help…
How are you able to mount the gimbal to the front without it shutting off at high speeds? My RS2 turns it's motors off over 60MPH when it's front mounted. I assume it does that to protect the motors from overtaxing themselves.
I have only taken mine up to 70 and it's been fine. I actually ended up buying the big DJI R2 gimbal for camera car work, which can handle any speed. lol
Any problem with the SOny camera have fan error when a the wind is to strong? I just got an error on my brand new FX30 about a fan malfunction because the wind was going so fast in the camera?
@@stevea6532 I’ve never experienced that. It could be coincidental in that the fan was going to have an error regardless of use due to a manufacturing abnormality. Is it mounted in front, back, or side of your vehicle?
@@Robert.DeCorah front. it only happens when the wind is a lot like going 60-90mph and turning to the right side side ways when the wind is full blowing inside the camera. After the camera turns forward it goes away.
@@stevea6532 yea, then you've achieved the limit of the FX30 front mounted. Mine I never took above 70mph when front mounted. You don't actually have to drive fast when shooting from a car for it to look fast on camera. That said, you do you. I'd leave fast speeds to a rear mounted setup as your car blocks wind from the camera. Maybe you could even try and make a mind dam or 3d printing something to block direct air without fully blocking the intake.
I’ve talked to you several times over FB and you’ve helped guide me. It’s cool to see your YT is just as helpful
Much appreciated for the kind words! Excited to see what you’re able to do!
Finally someone who isn't hanging out the back of their 4Runner with a gimbal...Thank you!
What’s wrong with that if you’re on a budget some people can’t afford thousands on these car set ups
@@schrenkmedia I’m not knocking folks who are on a budget, I’m knocking folks who pull stupid stunts that put their indispensable cameras at great risk for no good reason. At this point I’d buy an osmo pocket 3 for roller shots. It’s not cheap, but I’d rather lose one of those any day over my primary camera.
I hang out the back of my 4Runner all the time haha, but definitely looking at getting a setup like this in the near future.
Right on dude, this is a rad solution to a car rig!
🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
I just bought the tilta hyra alien camera mount rig and after doing one shoot the whole system fell. luckily my gear is still in tact and works but after seeing this I am building it this way. Love the video
Oh man! Sorry to hear that! Suction cup mounts can be fine, but you. Have to really know proper mounting techniques. They have to be checked very often, and have to be ratchet strapped to the vehicle. You also have to prep the surface, and always keep the suction cups covered when not in use. You’re also limited on what parts of the vehicle you can attach it to.
That said, hopefully this guide gives you some direction going forward !
Just got a tilta hydra alien with an rs2 as a budget entry to these shots and this video alone contains more info than hours of other tutorials, thank you for the detailed explanation
Also kudos for keeping in the mistake of the bar falling, helps remind us that mistakes happen and it's ok
Really appreciate the feedback. I almost got the Tilta arm, and there is absolutely nothing wrong with rocking it. I was just personally uncomfortable with suction only, as you should check the cups frequently, and I’m too lazy to. 😂😂
Really love how in depth this video is, loads of information! Been researching and thinking of getting the smallrig SC-15K which is a suction mount style, but in the future a full rig is definitely the goal! Very surprised that your channel isnt huge! its great quality stuff mate
Suction is DEFINITELY cheaper and quicker, although you MUST ratchet strap it to the car as a fail safe. I’ve seen videos of suction cups losing suction and arm with cameras get destroyed. The ratchet strap will prevent it from hitting the road if that were to ever happen. Appreciate you giving it a watch!
@@Robert.DeCorah 100% Will tie it down, dont want to risk it any more than it needs to be!
Amazing video and super comprehensive! If I could add something that might be helpful to others running an RS2 in this type of setup would be to plug everything thing in before connecting to the V-Mount battery. I learned the hard way frying two RS2s before learning the proper protocol. The RS3 Pro was not susceptible this way but I would follow that same protocol going forward. Also, your GPS module tip is spot on! Works even better on the RS3 Pro with the upgraded motors. Footage is super steady.
Appreciate the feedback and helpful tip!!
Hey I hope you see this and get a chance to reply before this weekend. Haha…I’m gonna be running my rs2 this weekend but with the hydra. I believe the connection to gimbal for power is essentially the same deal so I was curious about the power up sequence that you follow now. Are you plugging all things on the gimbal into the gimbal first and then sending power to the gimbal with the lemo to d-tap cable? For context, I have the v-mount plate for the rs2 that replaces the original mounting plate on the gimbal itself. I usually power my camera via the 2 pin lemo on that v-mount mounting plate but it seems like there are possible points of failure with various devices and their power draw.
@@yochanders correct. Everything is powered via a v mount that is on the arms cheese plate using a Lemo to D-Tap.
Great detailed video Robert! Currently in the process of building a rig for my car & this video helped out a lot! Could you share a link for the "Global Truss" clamps you used on your Wingbar Evo or lmk the full name of the specific clamps?
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/931222-REG/global_truss_pro_clamp_blk_heavy_duty_clamp_with.html
Such a great video! When is part two coming out?
Love this detailed video!! I am friends with Jacob and he has also recommended this proaim arm to me as well. There are barely any vides on the web for the arm, so this was fun to watch in detail. I plan to run this similar setup soon. You should make a part 2 if you get a chance!
Appreciate the kind words! I was gonna do a part two but then I sold the Porsche for a truck and then it got 30 below. lol. I'll make an interior build video in the next month or two when it's warmer!
@@Robert.DeCorah Where can I reach out for more questions?
@@smrvsuals instagram.com/robert_de_corah/
Awesome! Bring on part 2 🎉👏
🤘🏽
Solid insight on building a dedicated car rig 🔥
Appreciate it! It’s a long video, but it’s everything I was looking for when trying to build my rig, so hopefully it helps someone! Thanks for watching!
Would love to see more shots from the setup!
Greatly enjoyed the video. I totally gonna do a budget, budget version with my wife’s Kia Telluride hahaha 😅. I like the insights from the video. Might have to come up with a reason to build something like this. I made a stabilizing arm from scratch a few years ago. Maybe it time to start V2 in 2024.
Hell yea!
How much was the total build? Do you have a list of prices?
If I was just going off the back or front, and not both simultaneously, it would roughly break down to the following. Everything is linked in the description.
(3) 6’ Black Speedrail = $300
(1) 4’ Black Speedrail = $80
(6) Swivel Clamps = $240
(3) Single Clamps = $75
Hitch extender = $30
(2) Anti Vibration Plates for hitch = $40
ProAim Arm = $1,500
RS2 = $600
RS2 Base Expansion Kit = $500
Then you just need a long HDMI to run the camera to the inside and hook a monitor up to the hand control that comes in tge RS2 base expansion kit.
You can simplify your rear hitch connection mounting bars by just drilling a new hitch pin hole that is 90 degrees from the original hole so that it makes the trailer ball flange 90 degrees from normal and that means that your bar clamp will be vertical just like your front. That means that you don't have to have all the additional cross bars to make it vertical
You really want the horizontal bar first so that there is a secondary bar there to create a triangle partially up the vertical speed rail. This is because if the single vertical rail works loose and slips, the other rail is keeping it in place.
This actually happened to Jacob from Golden Peaks Productions and his rig hit the pavement. More times it’s about having a fail safe than simplicity.
where can I watch the second part of the video?
I will make one when it's warmer. Sorry for the delay!
Can you provide all the wifi info or demonstration for all the wiring for this setup in the future
Have you had a chance to checkout the proaim ultra? I'm curious how it compares to the v530
I haven’t used it. Looks like they’re using a shock as the main dampener instead of a spring. I honestly have no clue how much of a difference that will make. Wish I could be of more help…
@@Robert.DeCorah You’ve already helped me plenty!
How are you able to mount the gimbal to the front without it shutting off at high speeds? My RS2 turns it's motors off over 60MPH when it's front mounted. I assume it does that to protect the motors from overtaxing themselves.
I have only taken mine up to 70 and it's been fine. I actually ended up buying the big DJI R2 gimbal for camera car work, which can handle any speed. lol
@@Robert.DeCorah Thank you for answering my question. That makes a lot of sense
so sick
🤘🏽🤘🏽🤘🏽
I heard some DJI RS4 users had burnt out the RS4 motor from Vmounts anyone had those problem before?
Any problem with the SOny camera have fan error when a the wind is to strong? I just got an error on my brand new FX30 about a fan malfunction because the wind was going so fast in the camera?
@@stevea6532 I’ve never experienced that. It could be coincidental in that the fan was going to have an error regardless of use due to a manufacturing abnormality. Is it mounted in front, back, or side of your vehicle?
@@Robert.DeCorah front. it only happens when the wind is a lot like going 60-90mph and turning to the right side side ways when the wind is full blowing inside the camera. After the camera turns forward it goes away.
@@stevea6532 yea, then you've achieved the limit of the FX30 front mounted. Mine I never took above 70mph when front mounted.
You don't actually have to drive fast when shooting from a car for it to look fast on camera. That said, you do you.
I'd leave fast speeds to a rear mounted setup as your car blocks wind from the camera. Maybe you could even try and make a mind dam or 3d printing something to block direct air without fully blocking the intake.
@@Robert.DeCorah Thank you Ill keep it below 70mph and thank you for the tips!
I wish you ended the video with example shots and using it
If you watch the first 3 minutes you’ll see both of those things.
Showed the highway shots but now the bumpy road. And you in the car working the the system