Good video! Two other comparison points I have noticed is that CHE seem to be a bit more harsh on enclosure humidity than DHP. Also, I find the properties of DHP make it much easier to set up a nice basking spot for my reptiles using flat pieces of slate or other rock. The rock (and other materials) absorb and reflect back the warmth from DHP more effectively than CHE.
I have ordered 2 50 watt deep heat projectors. This will be the first time ever. Looking forward to it because all the groups and forums recommend them. My tank is 20 gallon long. I do use a small heat pad with ceramic heat emitter. I'm eager to watch my Leo's behavior change due to multiple Infrared types instead of c only :)
Hi, great comparison video! A few days ago I bought a 45x45x90 terrarium to keep two white tree frogs. The woman in the store recommended me a 100W Daylight basking spot and a 25W reptile UVB light. I'm a little unsure about this because it gets a bit cold here at night (17 degrees celcius) so I'm thinking about switching to a different heat source that can also stay on at night (with a thermostat). With the 100W Daylight basking spot it gets 30 degrees celcius at the top and 20 degrees celcius at the bottom during the day. What type of heat source do you recommend in this situation?
Samantha, it's hard to give set up advice in youtube comments, but we'd be glad to help you. Can I ask you to message Nick at the Contact Us tab on our website, along with some photos of your set up? He's our expect on such things.
I am looking into getting a DHP, but I have a question I haven't really been able to find an answer to. Do you NEED a Dimming thermostat with the DHP? I have your typical on/off exo terra thermostat right now with my UTH (heat mat), but have heard everyone say you must have a Dimming stat with the DHP. Trying to figure it out as I want to switch my leopard gecko over to a naturalistic enclosure with loose substrate so I'll need a lamp, but don't want to get rid of my thermostat if I don't have to. Especially since some other important supplies I will be needing is a bit costly and what to save money where I can.
It is not necessary to have a dimming thermostat but we Highly recommend using a dimmable thermostat as it will preserve the filament., and allow more control over how you heat your reptile.
It would be great if you could provide examples of animals that may benefit from one vs the other. Currently exploring different heating options for my leopard gecko, crested geckos, and pacman frog
Thank you the suggestion! For ectotherms that rely on 'basking spots' like leopard geckos, the DHP will offer a better solution. For animals that need ambient temperature control and heat gradients, like crested geckos, you may want a CHE.
My 80w Arcadia takes out humidity quick in my ball python tank, where as my 75w Che before maintained it well. I put it over the water bowl on the hot side. Is there something wrong there? I have a 40 gallon tank
I'm currently researching the ideal heat source for a boa constrictor and I'm finding all the available options overwhelming. I like the idea of a DHP but would a CHE be better for a boa?
Synne, can you send a message to Nick through the contact tab on our website, with photos of your set up, and he will help you? He's been keeping boas for decades and will be happy to recommend the right product for you.
Can you compare halogen bulbs. Also if you can make a video explaining the difference in all these different light bulbs for reptiles that would be great it's so confusing.
Hey, I have a 15x23 inch viv for my Cornsnake, she's about 5 years old now and we've always used CHEs. It never got really warm in the tank but it was adequate, just wondering what I should get (current CHE is broken) should I change to DHE? Many thanks
CHEs can't really provide a good basking zone during the day, which would be beneficial for your Corn Snake's digestion. We would recommend using either a halogen bulb or deep heat projector during the day to provide a basking spot, then switching to a ceramic heat emitter at night if needed so that temperatures don't drop too far down. Both of these should be set on a thermostat to keep temps in a safe range. People typically recommend the following heat gradient: Basking surface: 90°F, Warm side: 78-82°F, Cool Zone: about 75°F.
Interesting comparison. First I have heard about deep heat bulbs. I can see how they would be very beneficial in Reptiles that have high heat needs throughout day and night but if you are using a ceramic bulb just to keep your ambient temps up at night is there a reason for deep heat?
For nocturnal creatures the dhp tends to be better, also something that is not mention is due to the nature of the heat, it will help with drying terrariums, in turn aiding with the humidity drops that some species need
There are no cons that I’ve been able to find to offering deep heat at night. I’ve used both and have actually seen my snakes basking under the DHP’s at night. They never did this with CHE’s.
That's a great question. If you are using a ceramic heat emitter just for ambient temperatures then you would not have a need for a deep heat projector.
If using a CHE does it need to be in a cage guard? Can it go in a regular deep dome ceramic top? Is it able to sit on top of the enclosure or does it have to be inside ?
If adding this along with Halogen as recommended by Arcadia do you just run them together on same thermostat? If so is having all of it set up to a day/night timer fine and everything shuts off just overnight? Or just run it 24/7 with no thermostat? Adding another $200 thermostat for 7+ enclosures is not realistic.
As long as the thermostat can support the combined wattages of the heat lamps being used, it should work to run them together on the same thermostat! In this case, since the bulbs are being used in tandem, we would recommend keeping it on the day/night timer with the halogen unless supplementary nighttime heat is absolutely necessary for your enclosure.
Good day. Ive been looking for an alternate heat source for broiler chicks and ducklings. Those 250w heat lamps are like the main suggestions but theyre fire hazzard also. The wattage on these CHE and DHP and incredibly low and sounds like they consume way less current as oppose to heat lamps... your take on this? Can DHP be used for broiler chicks?
Unfortunately, we don't have the experience with Broiler chicks to definitively say yes or no. If you are looking to raise the ambient temperature of their enclosure, a CHE is likely a better choice as those will heat the air. DHPs will work better at directly delivering heat to an animal in a basking zone, so it won't heat the ambient temps as much.
I have a very tall thin enclosure about 1.5m and I can only supply heat from the top due to the construction of the enclosure, what would you recommend
Arcadia's 80w DHP can create a basking spot ranging from 97°F to 143°F depending on the distance from the DHP to the spot. We recommend DHPs for basking spots as they are very effective at heating one spot, and emit waves that are more bioavailable for basking reptiles. CHEs on the other hand are better for ambient temperatures, and will do a better job raising the temperature of the whole enclosure. If you are currently using a CHE for a basking spot, then yes, we'd say the DHP would be a good replacement for that, but if your goal is to raise the ambient temperature, we'd stick with a CHE.
Also a drawback for Deepheat Projectors might be the reflector focused beam which may result in a hotspot which is relative hot compared to the surrounding area and could cause burns aswell. Disclaimer though, i havent tested it yet i just assumed it ; it by way the bulb is structured. There could be differences between brands though but since they are not widely spread there might not be many options..
@@RealPangeaReptile I too, would like to understand the heat pattern of the bulb at various distances, but wasn't able to find it on your website. Could you please point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance
Hello, I am interested in getting a few blue death feigning beetles. I was told by the people at the pet store that they don’t require a heat lamp/special lighting. However, they do require a humidity level of 20%. I bought a hygrometer to measure the humidity in my home, and it is around 55-60%. I am thinking that perhaps a CHE or DHP would help to lower the humidity in the enclosure, but my tank is only 10 gallons. Plenty of space for a few beetles, but I’m worried it’s not large enough for the beetles to be able to escape the heat source if they need to. I don’t want to accidentally cook them! So if I were to connect my heat source to a thermostat to control the ambient temperature would that work? Or is it still too risky with such a small tank?
Hello! We aren't super well versed in invertebrate care, so we cannot offer specific advise on temperatures for your beetles. That being said, a CHE would help lower the humidity in the enclosure if it is able to run. However, if it is on a thermostat and does not run much, it won't do much for the humidity. If your only goal is to lower the humidity, it may be worth looking into purchasing a dehumidifier to use in the room they are in instead!
They are native to the southwestern United States/northwestern Mexico, and they live in dry, desert climates. So I believe they can tolerate hotter temperatures, but from what I have been reading, most people keep them at room temperature. The dehumidifier is a great idea. Thank you so much!
What do you recommend for me? I have a tokay gecko. 12x12x20 enclosures because that was the tallest at the store and employee told me it was good. I have the following. I need something I can heat for the rest of the day becuase I know I can only have light heater on for 8 hours. My house is always cold, 67-70 degrees F. This is what I have. -Zoo med 40w nano dome lamp fixture (3.5 inch dome) -40w Zoo med nano basking spot lamp (it says daylight, heat, and basking on the front of it)
Before making any further considerations, we would recommend double checking the temperatures inside your enclosure. Their ideal temperatures ranges are 90-100°F in their basking spot, 80-85°F in the shade, and 76-80°F overnight. If their temperatures aren't in these ranges you will need a stronger heat source for the day, like a higher wattage halogen lamp. For nighttime to get the temps up, we would recommend a ceramic heat emitter since your goal will be to raise general ambient temps, not to provide a basking spot. Additionally, if you don't already have one, we would also recommend picking up a UVB bulb for your Tokay. If it is at all possible, we would also encourage you to upgrade the tank to a bigger one in the future if possible. Most places recommend 24x24x48 enclosures, as Tokays are very active, and will use the space. The Bio Dude and Reptifiles both have great care sheets you can reference for details and advice, so we would recommend checking out their sheets, linked here! www.thebiodude.com/blogs/how-do-i-create-a-bioactive-vivarium/tokay-gecko-gekko-gecko-care-sheet reptifiles.com/tokay-gecko-care-sheet/
@@RealPangeaReptile thank you!!! I will follow your recommendations. I’m so pissed the store employee told me 12x12x20 is big enough for two!! I will most definitely invest in a bigger enclosure!! I will buy a thermometer today to check the temps inside. And I will buy the heat emitter. Thank you very much
I have an 18 inch enclosure... the size of the deep heat project means there is only about 5-6 inches between it and the basking spot my skane would be in! Wouls this be okay?
that's not where you're going to get the best usage out of a DHP, they're best used when they need to push the heat a further distance. If you message us through out website with some photos of your set up we can help you find the right product for you.
A 50W DHP would likely be sufficient, though we would recommend using a thermostat as well. We would also recommend finding a care sheet for the animal you are keeping, to see what recommendations they suggest.
I've never heard of a Deep Heat Projector. Why is that? I use CHE for my snakes and find them to be more efficient in providing the proper ambient temperatures for their enclosures.
You can, if it's a high quality one. Make sure you use a brand with a good, established reputation. We have some one the website that would work for you.
A flying gecko's enclosure should reach ambient temperatures of 70-95 degrees F. A basking spot would help reach these temperatures during the day, but we would suggest a halogen for that. For overnight ambient heating, we would recommend a CHE over a DHP for them.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Good video! Two other comparison points I have noticed is that CHE seem to be a bit more harsh on enclosure humidity than DHP. Also, I find the properties of DHP make it much easier to set up a nice basking spot for my reptiles using flat pieces of slate or other rock. The rock (and other materials) absorb and reflect back the warmth from DHP more effectively than CHE.
Agreed!
I have ordered 2 50 watt deep heat projectors. This will be the first time ever. Looking forward to it because all the groups and forums recommend them. My tank is 20 gallon long. I do use a small heat pad with ceramic heat emitter. I'm eager to watch my Leo's behavior change due to multiple Infrared types instead of c only :)
You'll see some big changes!
Hi, great comparison video! A few days ago I bought a 45x45x90 terrarium to keep two white tree frogs. The woman in the store recommended me a 100W Daylight basking spot and a 25W reptile UVB light. I'm a little unsure about this because it gets a bit cold here at night (17 degrees celcius) so I'm thinking about switching to a different heat source that can also stay on at night (with a thermostat). With the 100W Daylight basking spot it gets 30 degrees celcius at the top and 20 degrees celcius at the bottom during the day. What type of heat source do you recommend in this situation?
Samantha, it's hard to give set up advice in youtube comments, but we'd be glad to help you. Can I ask you to message Nick at the Contact Us tab on our website, along with some photos of your set up? He's our expect on such things.
Thank you!! I’ve been looking for a simple explanation on this for years!
Awesome, we're glad it helped! If you ever have other questions in the future, be sure to let us know, and we can do our best to help!
I am looking into getting a DHP, but I have a question I haven't really been able to find an answer to. Do you NEED a Dimming thermostat with the DHP? I have your typical on/off exo terra thermostat right now with my UTH (heat mat), but have heard everyone say you must have a Dimming stat with the DHP. Trying to figure it out as I want to switch my leopard gecko over to a naturalistic enclosure with loose substrate so I'll need a lamp, but don't want to get rid of my thermostat if I don't have to. Especially since some other important supplies I will be needing is a bit costly and what to save money where I can.
It is not necessary to have a dimming thermostat but we Highly recommend using a dimmable thermostat as it will preserve the filament., and allow more control over how you heat your reptile.
@@RealPangeaReptile thanks so much!
It would be great if you could provide examples of animals that may benefit from one vs the other. Currently exploring different heating options for my leopard gecko, crested geckos, and pacman frog
Thank you the suggestion! For ectotherms that rely on 'basking spots' like leopard geckos, the DHP will offer a better solution. For animals that need ambient temperature control and heat gradients, like crested geckos, you may want a CHE.
Can you use a pulse proportional thermostat with a heat projector?as I don’t want to have to by a dimmer thermostat.thanks
@@RealPangeaReptile would deep heat emitters be good for a ball python?
My 80w Arcadia takes out humidity quick in my ball python tank, where as my 75w Che before maintained it well. I put it over the water bowl on the hot side. Is there something wrong there? I have a 40 gallon tank
With a temp gun compare distances of heat and which does more heat from pangea and arcadia DHP
I'll pass your recommendation on to the creative team!
I'm currently researching the ideal heat source for a boa constrictor and I'm finding all the available options overwhelming. I like the idea of a DHP but would a CHE be better for a boa?
Synne, can you send a message to Nick through the contact tab on our website, with photos of your set up, and he will help you? He's been keeping boas for decades and will be happy to recommend the right product for you.
Can you compare halogen bulbs. Also if you can make a video explaining the difference in all these different light bulbs for reptiles that would be great it's so confusing.
I just asked the creative team to put this on their list.
Hey, I have a 15x23 inch viv for my Cornsnake, she's about 5 years old now and we've always used CHEs. It never got really warm in the tank but it was adequate, just wondering what I should get (current CHE is broken) should I change to DHE? Many thanks
CHEs can't really provide a good basking zone during the day, which would be beneficial for your Corn Snake's digestion. We would recommend using either a halogen bulb or deep heat projector during the day to provide a basking spot, then switching to a ceramic heat emitter at night if needed so that temperatures don't drop too far down. Both of these should be set on a thermostat to keep temps in a safe range. People typically recommend the following heat gradient: Basking surface: 90°F, Warm side: 78-82°F, Cool Zone: about 75°F.
With a CHE can it sit in top of the enclosure on the metal mesh and can it be in a regular deep dome ceramic top fixture?
Interesting comparison. First I have heard about deep heat bulbs. I can see how they would be very beneficial in Reptiles that have high heat needs throughout day and night but if you are using a ceramic bulb just to keep your ambient temps up at night is there a reason for deep heat?
For nocturnal creatures the dhp tends to be better, also something that is not mention is due to the nature of the heat, it will help with drying terrariums, in turn aiding with the humidity drops that some species need
There are no cons that I’ve been able to find to offering deep heat at night. I’ve used both and have actually seen my snakes basking under the DHP’s at night. They never did this with CHE’s.
That's a great question. If you are using a ceramic heat emitter just for ambient temperatures then you would not have a need for a deep heat projector.
If using a CHE does it need to be in a cage guard? Can it go in a regular deep dome ceramic top? Is it able to sit on top of the enclosure or does it have to be inside ?
You can put a CHE in a regular deep dome on top of an enclosure!
If adding this along with Halogen as recommended by Arcadia do you just run them together on same thermostat? If so is having all of it set up to a day/night timer fine and everything shuts off just overnight? Or just run it 24/7 with no thermostat? Adding another $200 thermostat for 7+ enclosures is not realistic.
As long as the thermostat can support the combined wattages of the heat lamps being used, it should work to run them together on the same thermostat! In this case, since the bulbs are being used in tandem, we would recommend keeping it on the day/night timer with the halogen unless supplementary nighttime heat is absolutely necessary for your enclosure.
Good day. Ive been looking for an alternate heat source for broiler chicks and ducklings. Those 250w heat lamps are like the main suggestions but theyre fire hazzard also. The wattage on these CHE and DHP and incredibly low and sounds like they consume way less current as oppose to heat lamps... your take on this? Can DHP be used for broiler chicks?
Unfortunately, we don't have the experience with Broiler chicks to definitively say yes or no. If you are looking to raise the ambient temperature of their enclosure, a CHE is likely a better choice as those will heat the air. DHPs will work better at directly delivering heat to an animal in a basking zone, so it won't heat the ambient temps as much.
I have a very tall thin enclosure about 1.5m and I can only supply heat from the top due to the construction of the enclosure, what would you recommend
What reptile is being housed in the enclosure, and what is the ambient temperature of the room it is in?
Would this 80w be able to replace a 150w che?
Arcadia's 80w DHP can create a basking spot ranging from 97°F to 143°F depending on the distance from the DHP to the spot. We recommend DHPs for basking spots as they are very effective at heating one spot, and emit waves that are more bioavailable for basking reptiles. CHEs on the other hand are better for ambient temperatures, and will do a better job raising the temperature of the whole enclosure. If you are currently using a CHE for a basking spot, then yes, we'd say the DHP would be a good replacement for that, but if your goal is to raise the ambient temperature, we'd stick with a CHE.
Also a drawback for Deepheat Projectors might be the reflector focused beam which may result in a hotspot which is relative hot compared to the surrounding area and could cause burns aswell. Disclaimer though,
i havent tested it yet i just assumed it ; it by way the bulb is structured.
There could be differences between brands though but since they are not widely spread there might not be many options..
The bulbs don't generate that kind of hotspot. If you look on our website you can see a breakdown of the heat from the bulb at multiple distances.
@@RealPangeaReptile I too, would like to understand the heat pattern of the bulb at various distances, but wasn't able to find it on your website. Could you please point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance
Hello, I am interested in getting a few blue death feigning beetles. I was told by the people at the pet store that they don’t require a heat lamp/special lighting. However, they do require a humidity level of 20%. I bought a hygrometer to measure the humidity in my home, and it is around 55-60%. I am thinking that perhaps a CHE or DHP would help to lower the humidity in the enclosure, but my tank is only 10 gallons. Plenty of space for a few beetles, but I’m worried it’s not large enough for the beetles to be able to escape the heat source if they need to. I don’t want to accidentally cook them! So if I were to connect my heat source to a thermostat to control the ambient temperature would that work? Or is it still too risky with such a small tank?
Hello! We aren't super well versed in invertebrate care, so we cannot offer specific advise on temperatures for your beetles. That being said, a CHE would help lower the humidity in the enclosure if it is able to run. However, if it is on a thermostat and does not run much, it won't do much for the humidity. If your only goal is to lower the humidity, it may be worth looking into purchasing a dehumidifier to use in the room they are in instead!
They are native to the southwestern United States/northwestern Mexico, and they live in dry, desert climates. So I believe they can tolerate hotter temperatures, but from what I have been reading, most people keep them at room temperature. The dehumidifier is a great idea. Thank you so much!
What do you recommend for me? I have a tokay gecko. 12x12x20 enclosures because that was the tallest at the store and employee told me it was good. I have the following. I need something I can heat for the rest of the day becuase I know I can only have light heater on for 8 hours. My house is always cold, 67-70 degrees F.
This is what I have.
-Zoo med 40w nano dome lamp fixture (3.5 inch dome)
-40w Zoo med nano basking spot lamp (it says daylight, heat, and basking on the front of it)
Before making any further considerations, we would recommend double checking the temperatures inside your enclosure. Their ideal temperatures ranges are 90-100°F in their basking spot, 80-85°F in the shade, and 76-80°F overnight. If their temperatures aren't in these ranges you will need a stronger heat source for the day, like a higher wattage halogen lamp. For nighttime to get the temps up, we would recommend a ceramic heat emitter since your goal will be to raise general ambient temps, not to provide a basking spot. Additionally, if you don't already have one, we would also recommend picking up a UVB bulb for your Tokay.
If it is at all possible, we would also encourage you to upgrade the tank to a bigger one in the future if possible. Most places recommend 24x24x48 enclosures, as Tokays are very active, and will use the space.
The Bio Dude and Reptifiles both have great care sheets you can reference for details and advice, so we would recommend checking out their sheets, linked here!
www.thebiodude.com/blogs/how-do-i-create-a-bioactive-vivarium/tokay-gecko-gekko-gecko-care-sheet
reptifiles.com/tokay-gecko-care-sheet/
@@RealPangeaReptile thank you!!! I will follow your recommendations. I’m so pissed the store employee told me 12x12x20 is big enough for two!! I will most definitely invest in a bigger enclosure!! I will buy a thermometer today to check the temps inside. And I will buy the heat emitter. Thank you very much
I have an 18 inch enclosure... the size of the deep heat project means there is only about 5-6 inches between it and the basking spot my skane would be in! Wouls this be okay?
that's not where you're going to get the best usage out of a DHP, they're best used when they need to push the heat a further distance. If you message us through out website with some photos of your set up we can help you find the right product for you.
How many watts DHP would I need for a 20g long?
A 50W DHP would likely be sufficient, though we would recommend using a thermostat as well. We would also recommend finding a care sheet for the animal you are keeping, to see what recommendations they suggest.
I've never heard of a Deep Heat Projector. Why is that? I use CHE for my snakes and find them to be more efficient in providing the proper ambient temperatures for their enclosures.
They're more centralized beams of heat than a CHE.
Can i run ceramic and dhp on a dual light fixture?
You can, if it's a high quality one. Make sure you use a brand with a good, established reputation. We have some one the website that would work for you.
@@RealPangeaReptile I ordered a 80W Arcadia DHP and considering to run it together with a 100W Zoomed ceramic..
Trying to find out what to use for flying gecko
A flying gecko's enclosure should reach ambient temperatures of 70-95 degrees F. A basking spot would help reach these temperatures during the day, but we would suggest a halogen for that. For overnight ambient heating, we would recommend a CHE over a DHP for them.
Hey I’m wondering why you guys thought my order was fraud? It was 100$
Hello, sorry for the delay. You should email customer service with any issues! Hopefully this was resolved by now. Thanks!
@@RealPangeaReptile it is! Thank you!!
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