Hi I have been watching your videos for two days and the first thing that got my attention is the fact that your working with your Dad, now I don't know if its your real dad or not , I assume it is. If it is you need to really know how lucky you are to have a Father like that and tell him you love him once in a while, it wont make you any less of a man. Thanks for the videos, now get back to work, Fords Rock Owner of a 1969 F-100 360 all original
Set up a cooling duct to get some air on the PS cooler, i see them installed on the front of the engine support cross member where air, water, rocks, salt and dirt can keep the cooling fins cool and wet, and bent, and corroded, and encrusted, so if you opt to put it there I recommend a gravel/splash guard, I like where you put that one, its just a matter of keeping cooler air flowing around it, not boundary sir which is hotter slower and less effective
I did this last year, bought one a guy rebuilt cheap, he used a one wire regulator which gave out, I had no idea as it circumvented my idiot light, so when the van battery is dead, then you figure it out, I did not install a fuse on it tho, I may do so later, the guy who built my alternator said he's been doing it a long time and never used one, but my battery did get the water boiled out of it recently, likely when the regulator spiked before death.
did you have any issue with the back of the alt casing touching the block? mine is...currently doing the swap now...I also need to shim the pulley a bit. just a slight grinding...there was no pulley spacer on the 3G I purchased.
I know this has been a long time... have been hunting for a 3G alternator in junkyards to put in our '73 F250 with the FE390... My question is you said to look for the 8 1/4" ear spacing alternator (far right version when you show the 3 different 130 amp versions), but the one you actually have on the truck looks like it's the 7" spacing (the far left version of the 3 different 130 amp alternators). Which is it?
hey bob want to do the same thing , saw the link to the wiring diagram you used you mentioned in the video. my 74 f250 didn't have the wiring from the alt to the starter relay on the fender wheel to the to voltage reg. is there a way to send you what i have to get some more info. ,kind of still confused.
Hey Bob, What are you going to run for a rear? Staying with the 9 in, or? I'm leaning towards the 8.8 just cuz it'll match the CV front, they're cheap ($150), they are plentiful to find with wide variety of gear ratios, possi, sway bar, disk brakes... even though you may not need all that, but hey... you really don't need the ISF either right?
***** Good to know on those 80-83 axles! I'll be checking that out for sure. If I cant make the 9 work without braking the bank I'd rather go that route as well. I saw your rear swap video after I posted, guess I missed that one.
Hi I have been watching your videos for two days and the first thing that got my attention is the fact that your working with your Dad, now I don't know if its your real dad or not , I assume it is. If it is you need to really know how lucky you are to have a Father like that and tell him you love him once in a while, it wont make you any less of a man. Thanks for the videos, now get back to work, Fords Rock Owner of a 1969 F-100 360 all original
Set up a cooling duct to get some air on the PS cooler, i see them installed on the front of the engine support cross member where air, water, rocks, salt and dirt can keep the cooling fins cool and wet, and bent, and corroded, and encrusted, so if you opt to put it there I recommend a gravel/splash guard, I like where you put that one, its just a matter of keeping cooler air flowing around it, not boundary sir which is hotter slower and less effective
i like the idea of the alternator conversion and decluttering the wire harness
Would this work on a 73 mustang?
only if you put a BBF FE in it
I think March Performance makes a serpentine pulley and bracket system for FE that look like the original equipment
Sir would the alternator swap work on a 73 mustang?
If that mustang has an FE engine in it, yes. This works on all FE engines regardless of platform
I did this last year, bought one a guy rebuilt cheap, he used a one wire regulator which gave out, I had no idea as it circumvented my idiot light, so when the van battery is dead, then you figure it out, I did not install a fuse on it tho, I may do so later, the guy who built my alternator said he's been doing it a long time and never used one, but my battery did get the water boiled out of it recently, likely when the regulator spiked before death.
So I got a 4 hole small case 3G . Can't get 8 inches across the bolt mounts , its like 7 7/8 " at the most . Wont work , right ?
did you have any issue with the back of the alt casing touching the block? mine is...currently doing the swap now...I also need to shim the pulley a bit. just a slight grinding...there was no pulley spacer on the 3G I purchased.
Yeah I actually lost my Spacer Washer And Am currently Using a 11/16 oil pan gasket and my original pully
and if yhou need a mega amp fuse 2000 model amp fuse have 175 amp on the car ion junk yard
I know this has been a long time... have been hunting for a 3G alternator in junkyards to put in our '73 F250 with the FE390... My question is you said to look for the 8 1/4" ear spacing alternator (far right version when you show the 3 different 130 amp versions), but the one you actually have on the truck looks like it's the 7" spacing (the far left version of the 3 different 130 amp alternators). Which is it?
hey bob want to do the same thing , saw the link to the wiring diagram you used you mentioned in the video. my 74 f250 didn't have the wiring from the alt to the starter relay on the fender wheel to the to voltage reg. is there a way to send you what i have to get some more info. ,kind of still confused.
Factory AC or dealer installed option?
That's a factory AC box.
41!
Hey Bob,
What are you going to run for a rear? Staying with the 9 in, or? I'm leaning towards the 8.8 just cuz it'll match the CV front, they're cheap ($150), they are plentiful to find with wide variety of gear ratios, possi, sway bar, disk brakes... even though you may not need all that, but hey... you really don't need the ISF either right?
IFS... you knew what ment!
***** Good to know on those 80-83 axles! I'll be checking that out for sure. If I cant make the 9 work without braking the bank I'd rather go that route as well.
I saw your rear swap video after I posted, guess I missed that one.
You have good videos but you don't need to use curse words. Remember some dads have their kids watching with them, just sayin'