Sometimes a faulty ram Point ist also giving a blue Screen Press on the two rams next to the APU and try again Greetings from a Guy like you from Germany.
There’s a good chance the original owner applied way too much heat to the APU and all the surrounding caps. Replacing all those caps will be a pain. Swapping everything out with a donor board might be the best bet. Nice video, cheers mate!
Like a lot of other commenters said, the APU might be fried. Replacing the caps is worth a shot, but it might irreparably damaged if that doesn’t work. Best of luck!
with blue screen its either the cpu, the ram or the emmc. i would try to reflow them one by one (worth the try as you basicly just practising) and hopfully some life will come to it.q
9:04 What I usually do is using 130C solder paste (not wire), it stick easily with some heat (you can use an iron, no hot air needed) and won't destroy anything else. the switch apu at full tilt won't reach melting point on it so you don't have to worry. You could try 180C paste if you want, but yea in this case, paste is your friend. Regarding blue screen, you could try soldering the rp2040 and finish the mod. It might enable you to boot (since no gpu involved) to hekate and go from there.
@@QTronics I had the APU caps shorted once, it enabled me to boot to hekate but not boot the console, no nintendo logo. black screen of death. Once I cleared the short, it was working again. When the APU caps were shorted, the 3.3v was not present as well, you could check 3.3v LDO.
350 when using braid isn’t too high imo, I would start at 340-350 and work my way up until I start getting sufficient heat to suck up the solder into the braid. I’ve found on some Xbox’s I’m using 360-370 so it can get really hot sometimes when your on a big plane for a 4 layer board
it could be the m92T36 chip that is bad, as this chip has something to do with the screen/charging for the nintendo switch. Also, check the emmc(nand) that could also be corrupted and would cause boot loop or blue screen.
MT92 was on my potential list. I think i;m going to install the mod fully and see if i can get it to boot Hekate and go from there. I'll film it if i do
@@QTronics also, if the rp2040 mod was installed before and autorcm was active, this would definitely corrupt the nand, and that would cause black screen/no charge signal.
The bq had blown, I was getting a black screen only till i changed it. I think the previous guy must have shorted something. But yeah i think the cpu is toast too.
The APU could be damaged from the heat transferred in the original attempt. This is what I would try in this sequence. Check if any of the other caps surrounding the APU are showing. This would indicate APU is damaged. Use lots of flux for all of this, otherwise you may bridge. - reflow APU - pull off APU. Clean and re-tin the board and APU. Reinstall APU. - replace APU from a donor board.
What do you mean by “check is any of the other caps surrounding the apu are show”? Do you mean their values? I thought the Apu was linked to the nand? So you couldn’t replace them?
thank you for balancing the audio for your music cut scenes so the music matched the level of your mic/rest of the video so frustrating when people put in music overlay and the audio is like 12 db higher than the rest of the video.
@@QTronics i don't think i would ever see a need for either of those points to be soldered, maybe a tiny dot on one of them, but other than that I think it's a waste of time, would have also made your job easier to remove it if that solder wasn't there to remove too after the failed attempt love from canada :)
@@justinbouchard I think the only reason is to stop the tape moving prior to soldering the caps. I've seen someone knock a cap off by moving the tape while it was only connected to one of the caps.
Im still not sure that would fix it, i’m probably gonna go for a reflow regardless. But applying pressure doesn’t work, and i know for certain it wasn’t dropped :/ Still think a reball might help? I have all the tools for it
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Sometimes a faulty ram Point ist also giving a blue Screen
Press on the two rams next to the APU and try again
Greetings from a Guy like you from Germany.
There’s a good chance the original owner applied way too much heat to the APU and all the surrounding caps. Replacing all those caps will be a pain. Swapping everything out with a donor board might be the best bet. Nice video, cheers mate!
So just to make sure i understand, it’s worth swapping all the caps with a donor board?
I’ll give that a go. Thanks
Like a lot of other commenters said, the APU might be fried. Replacing the caps is worth a shot, but it might irreparably damaged if that doesn’t work. Best of luck!
Yeah, i might give it a go. Good practise.
Heat near the APU is always a risk, unlucky
Yeah it’s not looking good, at least i have another practise board
with blue screen its either the cpu, the ram or the emmc. i would try to reflow them one by one (worth the try as you basicly just practising) and hopfully some life will come to it.q
9:04
What I usually do is using 130C solder paste (not wire), it stick easily with some heat (you can use an iron, no hot air needed) and won't destroy anything else. the switch apu at full tilt won't reach melting point on it so you don't have to worry. You could try 180C paste if you want, but yea in this case, paste is your friend.
Regarding blue screen, you could try soldering the rp2040 and finish the mod. It might enable you to boot (since no gpu involved) to hekate and go from there.
Good shout I could see if i could get the mod still to work. Cheers
@@QTronics
I had the APU caps shorted once, it enabled me to boot to hekate but not boot the console, no nintendo logo. black screen of death. Once I cleared the short, it was working again.
When the APU caps were shorted, the 3.3v was not present as well, you could check 3.3v LDO.
Yeah i’ll have a look then thanks for the help 👍
oops reball cpu
350 when using braid isn’t too high imo, I would start at 340-350 and work my way up until I start getting sufficient heat to suck up the solder into the braid. I’ve found on some Xbox’s I’m using 360-370 so it can get really hot sometimes when your on a big plane for a 4 layer board
Yeah im starting to the think the ts101 is a good starting iron. But im going to need something beefier eventually:)
Thanks for the help dude ❤️
Really cpu
it could be the m92T36 chip that is bad, as this chip has something to do with the screen/charging for the nintendo switch. Also, check the emmc(nand) that could also be corrupted and would cause boot loop or blue screen.
MT92 was on my potential list. I think i;m going to install the mod fully and see if i can get it to boot Hekate and go from there.
I'll film it if i do
@@QTronics also, if the rp2040 mod was installed before and autorcm was active, this would definitely corrupt the nand, and that would cause black screen/no charge signal.
Cpu problem, bq usually gets hot as it is. The switch can work without the Cpu caps no problem
The bq had blown, I was getting a black screen only till i changed it. I think the previous guy must have shorted something.
But yeah i think the cpu is toast too.
Los capacitores los puedes obtener también de los chips rp2040, si se lo quitas no afectas nada en el funcionamiento del rp2040
hola, si, eso es correcto. si utiliza una placa RP2040 estándar. No estoy seguro de que estos tengan condensadores de repuesto.
The APU could be damaged from the heat transferred in the original attempt. This is what I would try in this sequence.
Check if any of the other caps surrounding the APU are showing. This would indicate APU is damaged.
Use lots of flux for all of this, otherwise you may bridge.
- reflow APU
- pull off APU. Clean and re-tin the board and APU. Reinstall APU.
- replace APU from a donor board.
What do you mean by “check is any of the other caps surrounding the apu are show”? Do you mean their values?
I thought the Apu was linked to the nand?
So you couldn’t replace them?
looks like they would never even be able to get the cpu cover back on either with those massive solder blobs holding the ribbon in place on the frame
thank you for balancing the audio for your music cut scenes so the music matched the level of your mic/rest of the video
so frustrating when people put in music overlay and the audio is like 12 db higher than the rest of the video.
Yeah, I was going to say they were a novice, but so am I. Yeah you need just enough solder to hold it in place.
I will tell my editor you appreciate it :) He's good at doing stuff like that.
@@QTronics i don't think i would ever see a need for either of those points to be soldered, maybe a tiny dot on one of them, but other than that I think it's a waste of time, would have also made your job easier to remove it if that solder wasn't there to remove too after the failed attempt
love from canada :)
@@justinbouchard I think the only reason is to stop the tape moving prior to soldering the caps. I've seen someone knock a cap off by moving the tape while it was only connected to one of the caps.
That fool worked on the machine without removing the theme paste first no wonder they had to call you for help
Yeah, he was a little inexperienced
Apu Reball pal
Im still not sure that would fix it, i’m probably gonna go for a reflow regardless. But applying pressure doesn’t work, and i know for certain it wasn’t dropped :/
Still think a reball might help? I have all the tools for it
Do you offer send in services for V2 modchip install
I dont sorry, try here : facebook.com/share/skzmu8T4b75vk2S6/?mibextid=K35XfP