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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ส.ค. 2024
- Nintendo Switch OLED Install= • Latest RP2040 PicoFly ...
Nintendo Switch Lite Install= • Latest RP2040 PicoFly ...
Join me for an install of the latest RP2040 into a Nintendo Switch V2.
This is by far the easiest Switch to install the Picofly in.
*I don't condone piracy* This Switch has been modded so the Tegra X1 can run at the original clock speeds Nvidia intended.
Also by modding the console with the Picofly 2040, you are able to back up your NAND memory. As the eMMC and NAND is linked to the CPU, so should the NAND chip ever fail, your Switch V1/V2 doesn't become an expensive brick.
This is advanced micro soldering, so copy at your own risk.
CPU caps = 1Uf 6.3V 0201 20%
Music I Use: Bensound.com/free-music-for-videos
License code: VLS1LFKMTU3ZZQL1
Thank you for the video, I have just installed v2 chip without any issue.
Awesome dude :) yeah V2's are a good one to do. Hardest part is getting the heat shield off the CPU.
Hi there, may I ask where did you buy the chip?
@ChristianBautista-vc5cc ali express, rp2040 switch normally finds them
Hi, great video! Im almost ready to install a rp2040 on my switch. I appreciate you doing this for us. I do have a question. How exactly did you do the testing with the ohm meter? I am new to using one. And where was the ground cable? Was it just going to any ground point?
Stick the ground point on any ground i like to use the shielding bracket off the cpu.
Most of the points you test are actually in diode mode. ( so this would be red on the cpu shield then the black on the A B C D and 3.3v lines
Only the cpu is done in resistance mode.
Great video! Chuckled at the say no to crack incident 😁
Really need to do this to my Switch soon.
Thanks :) Yeah if you have a v2 it’s a no brainer for the extra power.
I'm gonna take a soldering training this week and then attempt this. Of course, since it's my first console, I understand that things can go wrong. Fingers crossed.
Good luck dude, make sure you have a microscope. Take your time. Dont rush. Good luck dude :)
How did it go?
I was able to tackle a lite today. I watched about an hour of general soldering videos, an hour of lite picofly installation tutorials, and spent about 4 hours sacrificing old/broken Xbox controller boards to the soldering gods lol. But I got it done.
Microscope would have been super useful, impossible to see the connections with the naked eye. Luckily my phone camera barely sufficed.
I have no idea where to go from "No SD Card" though; finding good info on the software side of things is more of a task than learning how to solder imo.
@@jayjayhooksch1 I did comment this, but I decided to postpone until summer break. I'm swamped with college stuff right now, so I don't have time to be watching all these videos and soldering. I promise I'll get to it in about 2 weeks though lolol
I'm glad it went well for you! I'll definitely try sacrificing some of my older electronics. If you don't mind sharing, what kind of soldering gear did you use?
@@nottsoserious I bought a 25$ kit off Amazon with solder, sponge stand and an 80w iron with a digital display. The solder was junk, wouldn't stick. I got some Rosin Core after.
The wet sponge it came with sucked, I switched to one of the brass shavings type cleaner.
Other than that, I got, some wick, some flux, a silicon mat, kapton tape and an activated carbon filter for my table-top air filter to act as a fume extractor. I strongly recommend some kind of fume extraction.
When I do it again I'll get a 25$ usb microscope (could do it again with my phone but I'd recommend a microscope) and electrician's scissors for cutting the heat shield (flush cutters didn't work well).
@@nottsoserious I should add that I felt the lack of quality in my iron, especially the tips, despite not having ever used a good quality one as a point of reference. The same will probably be true of the cheap microscope I plan to get, but I don't plan on using them more than once every couple years, so I don't mind.
Great job, this looks very good. Quick question. What type of microscope are you using? I recently installed my first modchip without any microscope and it was a pain to do.
You installed one without a scope? Well done dude that’s hard, ive done some micro soldering using my phone and it’s not the easiest.
Scope: andonstar 246-m
Very good!
Cheers dude, im getting better
Keep doing the switch videos I like them
My editors has had some issues with his net this week, but we will have an Unpatched Switch v1 with problems next week
Idk I honestly prefer the RAM soldering point on the Mariko models and the orange see through flex cable . They are smaller caps and closely grouped which can admittedly be hard without a microscope and a small tip on the iron but the finished product sits in the Switch like it was factory installed .
I think I know what you mean. I have seen them.
I did this one just to show people the easiest method.
I’ll probably do one of those eventually as i’ve seen some new 3 in 1 mod chips that come with the ribbons for all models.
@@QTronics that is the only version you can get a NAND backup which is as close as your going to get to failsafe if things go seriously sideways on ya . I think that might be the only 1 you could get a bigger emmc card for . And if we are talking easiest in terms of someone with very little experience in soldering, then you are right, that has fewer solder points and they aren't as small .
Yeah I get you.
I was talking about there being an orange flex cable for the V1/V2 where you can solder on to points on the board so you can leave the EMMC board where it is and not move it.
In terms of emmc though, im going to be looking at trying to install a 256gb EMMC into a console at some point.
I am contemplating doing this and want to remove as much risk as possible before doing it. Would it be a good idea to cover the other capacitors with capton tape so you don't run the risk of shorting them while soldering?
you can cover the other components, but the only soldering is on the CPU. it might be a little difficult to get the tape in place. If you can though, technically it should help.
@@QTronics slow and steady seems to be the best approach for those that don't do soldering on a regular basis, so I am willing to put in time to make the process more foolproof by covering surrounding areas.
Btw, what soldering tip size would you recommend?
@@miesals CPU caps:
Between 0.2mm and 0.5mm normally.
Bc2 or I soldering iron tip for TS101
Just dont keep the heat on there too long, else the caps will come off as they're very tiny, 201 caps.
someone gave me the advice of do one side of the cap then wait for it to cool so it's solid before doing the other side, just because these caps have a tendency to move.
Thx for the great tutorial.
I have a red Mario Switch V2 model. I bought a RP2040 PicoFly V5 . Is it compatible with my Switch?
How do your ribbons differ to mine?
There will be a v5 ( this is the version of the flex) version for the switch v1/v2.
Does yours have the ribbon to connect the emmc?
Im on discord as iYates if you want to send me a picture of the ribbon and i’ll tell you.
I'm having a yellow flash instead of blue and the normal switch screen when starting. I have a video that was soldered by a profession, I don't think he did anything wrong but its probably or is it because of the soldering? I can share it if you would like to check
Send it over to my Discord. Iyates
This sounds like one of the wires arent soldered.
Was this is a v1 or v2?
@QTronics sent a friend as sunami whonami, I got a video and it's V2
Hey, whats the size of your soldering tip in mm? I want to see if my current soldering iron tip is small enough for the install.
Between 0.2mm and 0.5mm normally.
Bc2 or I soldering iron tip for TS101
what is the type of screw diver you used ? great video btw :3
Hi, my friend got it as a gift for me, but I believe it's one of these : www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005496203968.html
Is it currently possible to use picofly on any version of Nintendo Switch or does it need to be on a specific firmware?
Any version, you would probably wont to be on the latest software anyways to have the most compatibility
❤
U didn t connect the orange connector dara 0 in the back?
Dat 0 on the back of the board is only for OLED.
The V2 and V1 boards have emmc chips that can be removed. So the emmc chip connects directly to the picofly board. That’s what makes this the easiest one to do.
Doesnt have to on this model because the emmc chip is removed from the Device and mounted in the RP2040 housing .
Hi, what is the temp. that you use for soldering?
using 330c - 350c on a ts101 soldering iron
Thanks!
Hi if i undertant i t right witch this chip i not gonna have to hussle witch injecting payload using rmc jig anymore after baterry die ??
yeah that's correct.
@@QTronics thanks
Programme sd card ?
I meant the Chip, the picofly runs through a list of timing to be able to inject the payload. When it finds the right one for your console it stores the setting on the SD card. So future boots are faster
I have add you on discord, can you help me out modding
i've accepted your request