Doing exactly that at the moment. Thank you for such a sensible video. No showing off, no trying to be clever, funny or superior just very helpful. Chapeaux
Confused as to why have you used sealant on the topside of the waste fitting? The actual seal is on the underside hence the rubber gasket. I would use a silicone based waterproof product on that.
Can you install the tray then sheet the walls so the sheeting sits over and laps the tray creating a lip then you can silicone the gap between the sheeting and tray. Curious
Thanks for posting this video, I have a very similar tray (but 1200x760) to go on a 18mm bit of fresh and level WSB ply. I'm resisting the temptation to use a load of CT1 and will do as the manufacturer says and use a 'relatively thin' (? ...15mm?) spread of sand and cement (great tip on adding flexible tile adhesive!) - my question is , how do finish the 'bed' gap at the front of the tray? Presumably on sand & cement it is too thick for a bead of silicone to look neat.
Hi there, yes you’re right to resist the urge to use CT1 as you need to bed the tray in, the ply may be level but sometimes trays can be slightly warped and need levelling with the mortar. How we deal with the bed gap is that it all depends on the finish floor. We always put the tray in before the main floor substrate and or tile/karndean so that makes up the height. If we’re using something thin like karndean I would either sit the tray straight onto the floor, if floorboards or chipboard we replace this with 18mm ply. Sometimes we over board with a 6mm hardibacker board depending on the floor. By the time we overboard the main floor in either 6/12mm hardibacker board and tile or latex and lay Karndean that does the job. Then finished with a sealant joint. Hope this helps?
Lester Bathrooms Thanks. I’ve replaced the whole floor with 18mm ply so tray is going directly onto that. Thin Karndean is going down everywhere around it- I guess finished level of that is around 4mm so maybe I don’t need to worry about the bed gap . How much flexi tile adhesive do you put in the mortar ?
@@dw8750 if I’m using a standard empty tile adhesive bucket (the 14kg ones) I tend to use about 1/4 of flexible adhesive like setaflex standard. I would see what the bed gap is like, you’ve always got the option of latexing the floor to make up some height before the Karndean installation. Hope it goes well! Merry Christmas.
Lester Bathrooms all done (unless I need to redo tomorrow!), think I got away with it . Not my kind of job that one, you make it look easy. Thanks for doing the video and the replies, there are not many videos covering this . One British plumber I found did it but seemed more interested in tacky catchphrases than a proper job ...and he used silicone. Keep it up. Have a good xmas.
Hi Guys, I’m going to make a new video very soon revisiting this, as there are a few elements I’ve changed in my installation since this video. Thanks for watching. Cheers, Rob.
Yeah, cos I was just about to start then, " where do i start!?"... . But then I read this. Hope to see you do a few things differently in the update. This was the way of old, and still is for some clients , but I'm expecting you have moved with the times. So look forward to watching the next one.
Hi there. A novice DIY question - I noticed your emphasis on getting the tray absolutely level. But how then does the water drain and not just pool? Are these trays designed such that the tops of the rims on each of the four edges all need to be level but the base itself has a pitch built into it towards the drain itself? I've noticed that our own shower tray is starting to pool water in the back left corner (drain is in back right corner) . The back left corner is the entrance to the walk in shower, so I'm thinking that over time the family's weight walking in and out has caused that corner to sink a bit. It's annoying as we either have to (a) let that pooled water evaporate off which leaves crusty residue or (b) have to mop it down the drain after each shower.
Hi, just wondering what ratio of sand and cement do you use? We are doing a diy renovation and are setting it on to ply board but we have tried laying the tray twice now as we have noticed the tray seems to move after we have let the cement set. Any advice greatly appreciated 👍
Hi Alex, I would check the instructions for the tray, they sometimes give the ratio in there. For this particular tray it was 5:1 sand and cement. I would seal your ply with sbr sealer or even better install some 6mm cement board to your ply and bed the tray onto that. All the best with your renovations 🙏🏻.
Hi. I'm fitting a 760 x 1200 stone tray into a similar space you have done. Any tips on not messing up the mortar at the back while placing in position (maybe a 2inch square piece of ply) Also, by not levelling the mortar would that not risk gaps underneath the tray. Many thanks
Hi Michael, I would say that a big tray like that is a two person lift. Try and lift it to the back as much as possible before placing down onto the mortar. I always put a level onto the floor before putting down the mortar to see where the highest point is and use that as a rough guide, then I’m very over generous with the mortar so I can bed (push) the tray down into it so I know it squashes down when I’m getting it level. All the best with your installation Michael. 👍🏻
Doing exactly that at the moment. Thank you for such a sensible video. No showing off, no trying to be clever, funny or superior just very helpful. Chapeaux
is that plasterboard on walls ? tray should not be bonded to floor ! you don't the silicone sealant on the waste seal !
Great video. Could I ask you how you fit a riser kit as it's on floor boards .I cant put cement down. thanks again.
Grips are good to use to tighten up the trap.
Confused as to why have you used sealant on the topside of the waste fitting? The actual seal is on the underside hence the rubber gasket. I would use a silicone based waterproof product on that.
Can you install the tray then sheet the walls so the sheeting sits over and laps the tray creating a lip then you can silicone the gap between the sheeting and tray. Curious
hey, just wondering what sand and cement do you use? many thanks
H
Thanks for posting this video, I have a very similar tray (but 1200x760) to go on a 18mm bit of fresh and level WSB ply. I'm resisting the temptation to use a load of CT1 and will do as the manufacturer says and use a 'relatively thin' (? ...15mm?) spread of sand and cement (great tip on adding flexible tile adhesive!) - my question is , how do finish the 'bed' gap at the front of the tray? Presumably on sand & cement it is too thick for a bead of silicone to look neat.
Hi there, yes you’re right to resist the urge to use CT1 as you need to bed the tray in, the ply may be level but sometimes trays can be slightly warped and need levelling with the mortar. How we deal with the bed gap is that it all depends on the finish floor. We always put the tray in before the main floor substrate and or tile/karndean so that makes up the height. If we’re using something thin like karndean I would either sit the tray straight onto the floor, if floorboards or chipboard we replace this with 18mm ply. Sometimes we over board with a 6mm hardibacker board depending on the floor. By the time we overboard the main floor in either 6/12mm hardibacker board and tile or latex and lay Karndean that does the job. Then finished with a sealant joint. Hope this helps?
Lester Bathrooms
Thanks. I’ve replaced the whole floor with 18mm ply so tray is going directly onto that. Thin Karndean is going down everywhere around it- I guess finished level of that is around 4mm so maybe I don’t need to worry about the bed gap .
How much flexi tile adhesive do you put in the mortar ?
@@dw8750 if I’m using a standard empty tile adhesive bucket (the 14kg ones) I tend to use about 1/4 of flexible adhesive like setaflex standard. I would see what the bed gap is like, you’ve always got the option of latexing the floor to make up some height before the Karndean installation.
Hope it goes well!
Merry Christmas.
Lester Bathrooms all done (unless I need to redo tomorrow!), think I got away with it . Not my kind of job that one, you make it look easy.
Thanks for doing the video and the replies, there are not many videos covering this . One British plumber I found did it but seemed more interested in tacky catchphrases than a proper job ...and he used silicone. Keep it up. Have a good xmas.
Hi mate, how much height would 12mm back board , adhesive and tiles make up?
Hi Guys, I’m going to make a new video very soon revisiting this, as there are a few elements I’ve changed in my installation since this video. Thanks for watching. Cheers, Rob.
Yeah, cos I was just about to start then, " where do i start!?"... . But then I read this.
Hope to see you do a few things differently in the update.
This was the way of old, and still is for some clients , but I'm expecting you have moved with the times. So look forward to watching the next one.
Are you not supposed to use flexi seal around the shower where it touches the walls for a more secure seal when you tile it
Absolutely. Always seal the tray before and after you tile. Thanks
Belting mate thanks a massive help
Hi there. A novice DIY question - I noticed your emphasis on getting the tray absolutely level. But how then does the water drain and not just pool? Are these trays designed such that the tops of the rims on each of the four edges all need to be level but the base itself has a pitch built into it towards the drain itself? I've noticed that our own shower tray is starting to pool water in the back left corner (drain is in back right corner) . The back left corner is the entrance to the walk in shower, so I'm thinking that over time the family's weight walking in and out has caused that corner to sink a bit. It's annoying as we either have to (a) let that pooled water evaporate off which leaves crusty residue or (b) have to mop it down the drain after each shower.
Hi, just wondering what ratio of sand and cement do you use? We are doing a diy renovation and are setting it on to ply board but we have tried laying the tray twice now as we have noticed the tray seems to move after we have let the cement set. Any advice greatly appreciated 👍
Hi Alex, I would check the instructions for the tray, they sometimes give the ratio in there. For this particular tray it was 5:1 sand and cement. I would seal your ply with sbr sealer or even better install some 6mm cement board to your ply and bed the tray onto that. All the best with your renovations 🙏🏻.
Hi. I'm fitting a 760 x 1200 stone tray into a similar space you have done. Any tips on not messing up the mortar at the back while placing in position (maybe a 2inch square piece of ply) Also, by not levelling the mortar would that not risk gaps underneath the tray. Many thanks
Hi Michael,
I would say that a big tray like that is a two person lift. Try and lift it to the back as much as possible before placing down onto the mortar.
I always put a level onto the floor before putting down the mortar to see where the highest point is and use that as a rough guide, then I’m very over generous with the mortar so I can bed (push) the tray down into it so I know it squashes down when I’m getting it level.
All the best with your installation Michael. 👍🏻
Thanks 👍👍👍