Hi you should mark the orientaion of the splines before sepparating the driveshaft. It is balansed put together so can be out of balnce if you get it wrong.
@@Julesvale No BMW platform in the 90's or before...even into the early 2000's. Dealers will teach techs to treat them as one rotating assembly as this is best practise rather than teaching which chassis to treat this way. They are balanced up individually, This is not the case in modern models, This is why it is taught.
If you look at the drive shafts there should be a white paint dot on each shaft. These are the balance marks from the factory. Line up the dots and you should have the shaft balanced.
Hmm. Not sure. This is a hack job and really misleading for anyone trying to do this themselves. The good news is that they have a lift. But, a few points could have made this more informative. In all cases, CHECK THE MANUAL and DO NOT FOLLOW this video. First, take time with the exhaust manifold bolts - they are heat rusted, not pieces of junk. Soak them in penetrating oil (Seafoam Carb Cleaner, Free All; not PB Blaster) for a couple of hours, then heat them. Work the nuts off back and forth gently until they break loose - patiently. Extracting broken studs is time consuming and a pain - and you might even damage your manifold. Second, MARK the driveshaft before pulling it apart - flanges, center mount and rear drive u/cv joints. Third, replace all parts related to center mount: dust cap, mounts, square head bolts, washer, hex nuts, circlip lock ring (they didn’t even mention this needs to be removed before pulling the old bearing), clamp sleeve, tooth washer and clamp ring. Install collar towards tranny. Use a pipe, tube or socket the diameter of the bearing and set it flush to the dust cap facing the tranny - DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER - you can make one out of PVC, if needed. Then REALIGN the splines where it was marked. Also, use a molybdenum grease specific to driveshafts splines, vibrations and heat (like Liqui Moly … go figure); not some tin can spray. Fourth, check the center alignment bushing before putting on the Guibo; replace if worn. It should protrude app. 3/16”, depending on specific model. If it is worn, try a slide hammer (God willing); if not a hacksaw or even a jigsaw CAREFULLY - it’s an absolute B**** to remove. Again, refer to manual. Fifth, ALIGN and install driveshaft to rear drive and torque. Mount center and install bolts/nuts. Critical to line up Guibo with arrows pointing to correct tranny and driveshaft flanges. (The video never mentions this). Sixth, after setting in bolts, push driveshaft forward into tranny, TORQUE Guibo bolts, pre-load center mount app. 1/2” forward, and torque mount bolts, then tighten and torque clamping sleeve. Last, as a general guideline, replace ALL of the locking nuts - driveshaft AND exhaust. Specifically, use COPPER lock nuts on your exhaust and get new gaskets - composite gaskets last longer. While you are doing this, check the transmission mounts and replace if worn or deformed. eSeries BMWs are notorious for steering fluid leaks, of which can eat through the rubber of left mount. If available, replace with a polyurethane mount. Also, save yourself a future headache and put a dab of Copper Anti-seize on each bolt, careful not to get it on the nuts. And use Locktite 242 (blue) where and if the MANUAL calls for it. Yes, most e-series BMWs are similar. However, methods to dismantle the driveshaft can be different. So in all cases, CHECK THE MANUAL for steps, parts, tolerances and torque settings specific to the car. PS - I’m not a mechanic but have done this on my e28, e36 and e46, by myself, in my garage with limited space (not ideal but very doable). There are much better videos that go into better and proper detail - don’t rely on just one. Get a friend to help - if nothing more to double check your work/sanity. MOST importantly, invest in a Bentley Shop Manual, asks questions, learn from others’ real experience (you can even call Pelican, eEuroparts, FCO Euro and ECS Tuning for advice) and pay it forward. Blowing your manifold, blowing your tranny, destroying your undercarriage, and/or screwing up your rear drive is not a good day.
Dude im actually so confused i just used this video to reference all the work i just did and reading thru the comments their saying its all wrong so did i just fuck everything up too 😭😤
1) I think you put center support bearing on backwards. There are supposed to be dust cover plates and a snap ring. Would love to see how you get the rear dust cover plate pressed onto the shaft.
I'm doing this right now and could've swore I pulled it off the opposite way he said to do it. I also had a front and rear gas cover. Oe. Thanks for reaffirming.
You think this the problem for my car because my car makes a really loud rumbling popping noise everytime i accelerate it seems to only do it when i hit a bump thats wht trigger it
This should work. Or get the set with the 8” too. MOFEEZ 3" 4" 6" inch 3-Jaw Gear Puller ¨C Gear Removal Tool for Slide Gears, Pulley, and Flywheel 3pc Set
If anyone does end up looking at this, I'd get the 8"/200mm Puller - I've got a 4" and that's too small, even a 6"/150mm doesn't work from what I've seen :)
@@jspeedracing okay, i have loud vibrations and rattle after changing itat 2500rpms idk what i did wrong, i connected it in the same position as before☹️
@@melihhabi Did you ever find out why it did this? I am currently having the exact same issue. Installed the shaft how i took it off except the csb, which is new
After having to change my center bearing on my modified e92 335i I decided to go with the upgraded JXB center bearing system with track rated bushing. th-cam.com/video/LIyD4vjwZYc/w-d-xo.html
So, couple of questions, did you reuse the bolts for flex disc and on the other end where it connects to the differential? Also, for the bolts that broke on exhaust, did you get new ones from bmw or put some other ones?
@@jspeedracing And here is million dollar question, can driveshaft be replaced without dropping exhaust 100%? Of course, I'm talking about these 4 screws (the ones that you broke). Would it be possible to unscrew exhaust from the back and then just let it hanging (of course, you'd put some kind of support, so exhaust doesn't fall off to the ground). You could gain enough clearance to replace the drive shaft (maybe 2 feet or something). The screws on my car, actually those nuts are not recognizable anymore (rust is everywhere). So, I don't want to mess around with that, because I know if I try to unscrew them, it might create bigger problems. So, what do you think, would that be possible (replacing drive shaft without unscrewing these 4 exhaust screws)?
![[Eng Sub] BMW E46 Flex disc (guibo) and drive shaft center support bearing replacement DIY](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cUH9_4Zm9Xg/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Eng Sub] BMW E46 Flex disc (guibo) and drive shaft center support bearing replacement DIY](/img/tr.png)
![[Watch Party] RoV Pro League 2024 Winter | ( Bacon Time Vs FS )](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lD6z1BugdZw/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi you should mark the orientaion of the splines before sepparating the driveshaft. It is balansed put together so can be out of balnce if you get it wrong.
Thanks guys, this is something I did not know, I will pin your comment.
They're not balanced as an assembly, they're balanced individually, so the orientation does not matter, that's the case for all BMWs
@@unknownmale wrong it is mentionned in AIR or ISTA that it is balanced as an assembly without flex disc or bearings
@@Julesvale No BMW platform in the 90's or before...even into the early 2000's. Dealers will teach techs to treat them as one rotating assembly as this is best practise rather than teaching which chassis to treat this way. They are balanced up individually, This is not the case in modern models, This is why it is taught.
If you look at the drive shafts there should be a white paint dot on each shaft. These are the balance marks from the factory. Line up the dots and you should have the shaft balanced.
Good information, I need to do my X3 . My driveline is starting to vibrate in the rear of the car between about 40 and 50 mph.
Hmm. Not sure. This is a hack job and really misleading for anyone trying to do this themselves. The good news is that they have a lift. But, a few points could have made this more informative. In all cases, CHECK THE MANUAL and DO NOT FOLLOW this video.
First, take time with the exhaust manifold bolts - they are heat rusted, not pieces of junk. Soak them in penetrating oil (Seafoam Carb Cleaner, Free All; not PB Blaster) for a couple of hours, then heat them. Work the nuts off back and forth gently until they break loose - patiently. Extracting broken studs is time consuming and a pain - and you might even damage your manifold.
Second, MARK the driveshaft before pulling it apart - flanges, center mount and rear drive u/cv joints.
Third, replace all parts related to center mount: dust cap, mounts, square head bolts, washer, hex nuts, circlip lock ring (they didn’t even mention this needs to be removed before pulling the old bearing), clamp sleeve, tooth washer and clamp ring. Install collar towards tranny. Use a pipe, tube or socket the diameter of the bearing and set it flush to the dust cap facing the tranny - DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER - you can make one out of PVC, if needed. Then REALIGN the splines where it was marked. Also, use a molybdenum grease specific to driveshafts splines, vibrations and heat (like Liqui Moly … go figure); not some tin can spray.
Fourth, check the center alignment bushing before putting on the Guibo; replace if worn. It should protrude app. 3/16”, depending on specific model. If it is worn, try a slide hammer (God willing); if not a hacksaw or even a jigsaw CAREFULLY - it’s an absolute B**** to remove. Again, refer to manual.
Fifth, ALIGN and install driveshaft to rear drive and torque. Mount center and install bolts/nuts. Critical to line up Guibo with arrows pointing to correct tranny and driveshaft flanges. (The video never mentions this).
Sixth, after setting in bolts, push driveshaft forward into tranny, TORQUE Guibo bolts, pre-load center mount app. 1/2” forward, and torque mount bolts, then tighten and torque clamping sleeve.
Last, as a general guideline, replace ALL of the locking nuts - driveshaft AND exhaust. Specifically, use COPPER lock nuts on your exhaust and get new gaskets - composite gaskets last longer. While you are doing this, check the transmission mounts and replace if worn or deformed. eSeries BMWs are notorious for steering fluid leaks, of which can eat through the rubber of left mount. If available, replace with a polyurethane mount. Also, save yourself a future headache and put a dab of Copper Anti-seize on each bolt, careful not to get it on the nuts. And use Locktite 242 (blue) where and if the MANUAL calls for it.
Yes, most e-series BMWs are similar. However, methods to dismantle the driveshaft can be different. So in all cases, CHECK THE MANUAL for steps, parts, tolerances and torque settings specific to the car.
PS - I’m not a mechanic but have done this on my e28, e36 and e46, by myself, in my garage with limited space (not ideal but very doable). There are much better videos that go into better and proper detail - don’t rely on just one. Get a friend to help - if nothing more to double check your work/sanity. MOST importantly, invest in a Bentley Shop Manual, asks questions, learn from others’ real experience (you can even call Pelican, eEuroparts, FCO Euro and ECS Tuning for advice) and pay it forward. Blowing your manifold, blowing your tranny, destroying your undercarriage, and/or screwing up your rear drive is not a good day.
Dude im actually so confused i just used this video to reference all the work i just did and reading thru the comments their saying its all wrong so did i just fuck everything up too 😭😤
1) I think you put center support bearing on backwards. There are supposed to be dust cover plates and a snap ring. Would love to see how you get the rear dust cover plate pressed onto the shaft.
+1
yes he did lol
Yup. CSB is on backwards. Also mark the driveshaft before separating it. Or if you have a white dot like in 6:25, match it up with the other side
definitely backwards
I'm doing this right now and could've swore I pulled it off the opposite way he said to do it. I also had a front and rear gas cover. Oe. Thanks for reaffirming.
Thank you so much for this video. Definitely the most straight forward and in depth one ive seen on TH-cam!
Thanks!
The two bright dots can be alighted to balance the shaft
Thank you for this information I have pinned another comment saying the same thing. Good to know. Thank you
Nice job.
What else could o use to push the new bearing onto the drive shaft? That hammer screw driver method doesn’t work for me
I have a e32 1990 750il and i have a question, so wen the rubber warns out is makes the car shake?
So mine at 50 starts to shake thanks
Heat up the downpipe manifold nuts then they usually come undone without breaking the studs !
There no snapring holding the bearing in?
this is the same process for the e30 aswell
if anyone was wondering
Preload the centre bearing?
What is the size fo the three leg bearing puller? Would 8 inch long puller work or bigger size required?
LOL that guibo !!!
Is this the same for the awd e46 325xi?
You didn’t align it back together the white dots should match on both shafts . And it looks like you didn’t pre load the bearing .
You think this the problem for my car because my car makes a really loud rumbling popping noise everytime i accelerate it seems to only do it when i hit a bump thats wht trigger it
It could be.
@@jspeedracing is it necessary to take the exhaust off
Do you have a part number for the puller tool?
Ya hold on
This should work. Or get the set with the 8” too. MOFEEZ 3" 4" 6" inch 3-Jaw Gear Puller ¨C Gear Removal Tool for Slide Gears, Pulley, and Flywheel 3pc Set
www.amazon.com/MOFEEZ-Puller-Removal-Pulley-Flywheel/dp/B07C9MRC7N/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=TSKLI17SVXIT&keywords=3+jaw+puller&qid=1649627907&sprefix=3+jaw+%2Caps%2C321&sr=8-3#
If anyone does end up looking at this, I'd get the 8"/200mm Puller - I've got a 4" and that's too small, even a 6"/150mm doesn't work from what I've seen :)
i forgot the snapring is this bad?
Ehhh you’ll probably be alright
@@jspeedracing okay, i have loud vibrations and rattle after changing itat 2500rpms idk what i did wrong, i connected it in the same position as before☹️
@@melihhabi Did you ever find out why it did this? I am currently having the exact same issue. Installed the shaft how i took it off except the csb, which is new
@@itsjuststan1373 installed the wrong way round lmao it touched the heat shield, it was so cringe after i found this out
i have a issues where i put her in drive and the back end drops a lil is that the same problem? i don’t get bad vibration but it does clunk
Could be a lot of things. Maybe blown rear suspension? Hard to say
Probably ball joints going bad
Bloody hell, someone did a crap job on that 🙄
Haha ya it was baaaaad. So many Z3's these days lol. so great :)
My car only vibrate when i have been driving it for 1 hour plus but it's so bad its like the windows will break
Wow. Ya sounds like the bearing
Thats not how you do it, everything should be backwards
After having to change my center bearing on my modified e92 335i I decided to go with the upgraded JXB center bearing system with track rated bushing.
th-cam.com/video/LIyD4vjwZYc/w-d-xo.html
So, couple of questions, did you reuse the bolts for flex disc and on the other end where it connects to the differential? Also, for the bolts that broke on exhaust, did you get new ones from bmw or put some other ones?
Yes. And I just got regular nuts and bolts for exhaust
@@jspeedracing And here is million dollar question, can driveshaft be replaced without dropping exhaust 100%? Of course, I'm talking about these 4 screws (the ones that you broke). Would it be possible to unscrew exhaust from the back and then just let it hanging (of course, you'd put some kind of support, so exhaust doesn't fall off to the ground). You could gain enough clearance to replace the drive shaft (maybe 2 feet or something). The screws on my car, actually those nuts are not recognizable anymore (rust is everywhere). So, I don't want to mess around with that, because I know if I try to unscrew them, it might create bigger problems. So, what do you think, would that be possible (replacing drive shaft without unscrewing these 4 exhaust screws)?