Thank you VERY much for this video! I made this cable, and IT sounds just perfect. Your research was very good; the choice for the Adam Hall Krystal cable is perfect!
Lol at first, I thought the video was about rewiring the tonearm itself! I thought these are called phono cables. 17:22 The copper should not extrude the red crimped part of a spade. 18:10 For anyone buying cables online, if you want a nicely flexible cable, you should look for silicone cables instead of PVC, guaranteed flexibility. 21:30 You've connected the "cold" to the shielding instead of the ground. So there is no ground on the shield to create a groundloop with. 24:40 Now this is why I don't use a balanced cable to make a single ended cable. 29:20 I think it would be easier to buy a cable with 5 leads and split it at the end of the RCA connectors, instead of merging two balanced and a ground cable together at the BNC connector. That way you can use the shield as ground lead. 33:00 Pre-tinning the copper leads before putting those parts on would probably make it a lot easier, that way the copper fibers won't fray. 35:50 You should pre-tin *both* the connector contacts as well as the copper leads of your cable, makes it *significantly* easier. It's doable, even with a big, fat soldering tip as that of yours - practice makes perfect! 😊 FWIW, my personal recommendations: I like the Neutrik Profi RCA plugs more, mainly because of the type of strain relief (and low capacitance). It doesn't use a metal part that needs to be bent around the cable. Instead, it has a separate chuck that's screwed down onto the cable, just like the strain relief in your RCA connectors. The issue with those metal clamps is that they can loosen up over time, basically bending outwards. Definitely worth a look: www.neutrik.com/en/product/nf2c-b-2 As phono cable, I like the Mogami 2964 very much, due to it's double shielding and very low capacitance.
@@ColdSphinX Yeah that's what I thought too. If he used a 5 conductor cable, of which one is the shielding, he could've used the shielding as ground wire, making the shielding more effective as well. In that case it would be like an extension of the grounded tonearm tube.
3 ปีที่แล้ว +1
try making another cable - it's an art and takes some persistence.. you certainly have all the tools - I don't have 1/4 of your tools and have learned to do it properly.. I do have a high quality soldering iron though with variable heating. thanks for sharing your process.
I love your new intro! I absolutely learn a lot from your great channel! I apologize if some of my past comments seem a bit "abrasive"! I give my "opinion", and the way I word it it sometimes comes out sounding like facts ! The comments I give I assure you is only my opinion! If I get something wrong, don't be too shy to let me know!
Try using an old scart cable... I did, striped it down to the bare wires, all copper of course, oxygen free... Not sure there's really such a thing as completely oxygen free... Don't fall for the voodoo B S, I then painted each individual wire with acrylic colour paint... Hung a wire in my kitchen then pegged and hung each one and one at a time painted each one the appropriate colour... Very very delicate way to do it but I've made various pickup arms from various found bits and pieces... And my arms range from 16ins.... 18ins and a new one made last week 20ins...all ballanced on an old ballpoint pen tip... And connected up to my phono amp via Neutrix plugs... The soldering helped me no end with... 1 technique and 2...swearing...hay Ho it was worth it... Good luck with the vids and diy... Keep them coming....
3 ปีที่แล้ว
OCC wires are not snake oil. it's easy to see improvements when measuring with them properly made. one of the few upgrades that are really worth while. it's not even an expensive upgrade - but on the note of using other cable or wires, there isn't a huge difference that your friends would notice.
The best place for a phono preamp is close as possible to the cartridge. EMT engineers designed everything to work together for reliability and sonics. If you do not like the way the preamp sound then redesign it or EQ it externally.
Hi! It seems that those XLR connectors are of NEUTRIK brand. If so they are the best of the best of professional connectors for decades ! And yes, don't throw it away! (I think i'm gona make a cable like yours for my EMT 948. Thanks for the idea.)
My CH Precision P1 phono stage have balanced inputs. You are most likely to find balanced inputs in hi-end phono preamps. Some manufacturers like Boulder and HSE SWISS take it to extreme and only include balanced inputs in their phono stages.
Hi, I was considering the EMT TSD cartridges? What is your take on them? I was looking into a current TSD? Any suggestions? I have a heavy enough arm for it! Thanks
Hello. I was seeing your video and was curious about the older connector you show. I need to make a cable for the rs212 tonearm that uses the 7 pin connector, and I don't know it's reference.. Can you be so kind to share it? Best regards from Portugal. Jorge
HI, Guido, : I bag Your pardon, but far or near from “magic”, You can make things, that many of us can’t to do.- Thanks Guido, and excuse me also for my English Language.- ( Aldo ).-
If you modify your EMT gear, then be aware that EMT went out of business I think in 2005(ish) so if you mess things up it is hard to bring it back to the original. Hans-Ludwig Dusch (a long term EMT employee/developer) is running a small business repairing EMT gear, but in general there is not an infinite amount of spare parts available so be careful! Just saying... ;-)
You did not see the whole video I am afrai and not even my EMT video. My EMT is coming directly from Hans Michael Fabritius...the best together with Dusch. In any case I did not modify anything I just detached the internal tonearmwire and used the one made by who...Dusch!
binder gmbh s a german connector manufacturer for profesionnal -Franz Binder is the founder of the company . they have distributors across europe - from the plastic bag it is serie 712 and ordering part number is 99 0413 00 05 and can be bought from RS or Farnell
Get a good quality 5 conductor cable to go into the binder 712 and split it later on into RCA and ground using solder and heatshrink. Don't do his beginner mistakes.
I like Your Videos so I can help as a thank You. You can send me the cable and connectors. I will solder it for You, for no charge. If You want of course.
How kind of you! Thank you so much! The problem is that I burned the plastic of the binder (how embarrassing) so I would have to buy it again plus I already got the one made by Dusch...but thanks again. I GREATLY APPRECIATE IT!
Don't use RCA sockets or plugs worst connection you can get instead use BNC 50 ohms and are they 50 or 75 rcas? Probably not! alternatively use lxr plugs and sockets or both silver coated not gold Use a 330 pF film capacitor on earth cable to ground OCC copper is just BS mate all copper wire is OCC That's How It's Made extracting meltan copper through a di forma I don't trust that balanced cable looks crap you want it teflon or silicone sheath wire with a outer sheath rubber silicone coating to cut down microphonics No you connect the shielding to your amplifier not the other way round to the tonearm making sure the ground wire from tonearm is not connected to the Shield and is separate to the RCA Jack or to a nut on the amplifier, the RCA connection is better grounding for tonearm grounding it doesn't look like triple shielded looks like double shielding anyway you're better off going with quadruple shelving. If it's triple shielding there should be a special plastic layer what is conductive check with your multimeter, and the foil and the braid I don't see the plastic shielding only the foil and copper braid what I would rather have silver braiding. Make sure the iron is fully hot you don't need to have set a low temperature only low temperature is useful for or microprocessors 75 watt 100-watt iron is fine and desirable make sure you tin your wires first and use a bit of resin in a syringe make sure you have good quality solder 4% silver minimum, after tin the wires and the connector apply pressure and enough heat to melt don't worry about if it melts a plastic a bit. Make sure the solder flows well ,,
hi this is very silly video just don't see the point of doing this again pre amp crazy about i have bat ears an i just can't tell any thing when you change cable in reel to reel decks you get a bit of hum pick up you got to have the amp very high the computer can pick up changes not safe to amp sig that high do your ears it like brother did
![ANA[DIA]LOG](http://yt3.ggpht.com/50CpmGNilS8aoMlarZVhI_GxRDoZdbj4ZgwCMZXg-Rq2PrEvCytlE6RVyLUrNY-rwE_sAlZ1Zw=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
Thank you VERY much for this video!
I made this cable, and IT sounds just perfect.
Your research was very good; the choice for the Adam Hall Krystal cable is perfect!
Thank you so much for informing me!! I failed but I am so glad that someone was able to actually do this a get good results!
Lol at first, I thought the video was about rewiring the tonearm itself!
I thought these are called phono cables.
17:22 The copper should not extrude the red crimped part of a spade.
18:10 For anyone buying cables online, if you want a nicely flexible cable, you should look for silicone cables instead of PVC, guaranteed flexibility.
21:30 You've connected the "cold" to the shielding instead of the ground. So there is no ground on the shield to create a groundloop with.
24:40 Now this is why I don't use a balanced cable to make a single ended cable.
29:20 I think it would be easier to buy a cable with 5 leads and split it at the end of the RCA connectors, instead of merging two balanced and a ground cable together at the BNC connector. That way you can use the shield as ground lead.
33:00 Pre-tinning the copper leads before putting those parts on would probably make it a lot easier, that way the copper fibers won't fray.
35:50 You should pre-tin *both* the connector contacts as well as the copper leads of your cable, makes it *significantly* easier.
It's doable, even with a big, fat soldering tip as that of yours - practice makes perfect! 😊
FWIW, my personal recommendations:
I like the Neutrik Profi RCA plugs more, mainly because of the type of strain relief (and low capacitance).
It doesn't use a metal part that needs to be bent around the cable.
Instead, it has a separate chuck that's screwed down onto the cable, just like the strain relief in your RCA connectors.
The issue with those metal clamps is that they can loosen up over time, basically bending outwards.
Definitely worth a look: www.neutrik.com/en/product/nf2c-b-2
As phono cable, I like the Mogami 2964 very much, due to it's double shielding and very low capacitance.
@ Yep, properly rewiring a tonearm is even harder!
Seeing him cram all those cables together made me cringe. Why no 5 conductor cable that you can split later on?
@@ColdSphinX Yeah that's what I thought too.
If he used a 5 conductor cable, of which one is the shielding, he could've used the shielding as ground wire, making the shielding more effective as well.
In that case it would be like an extension of the grounded tonearm tube.
try making another cable - it's an art and takes some persistence.. you certainly have all the tools - I don't have 1/4 of your tools and have learned to do it properly.. I do have a high quality soldering iron though with variable heating. thanks for sharing your process.
I love your new intro! I absolutely learn a lot from your great channel! I apologize if some of my past comments seem a bit "abrasive"! I give my "opinion", and the way I word it it sometimes comes out sounding like facts ! The comments I give I assure you is only my opinion! If I get something wrong, don't be too shy to let me know!
Thanks for your words! :-)
Try using an old scart cable... I did, striped it down to the bare wires, all copper of course, oxygen free... Not sure there's really such a thing as completely oxygen free... Don't fall for the voodoo B S, I then painted each individual wire with acrylic colour paint... Hung a wire in my kitchen then pegged and hung each one and one at a time painted each one the appropriate colour... Very very delicate way to do it but I've made various pickup arms from various found bits and pieces... And my arms range from 16ins.... 18ins and a new one made last week 20ins...all ballanced on an old ballpoint pen tip... And connected up to my phono amp via Neutrix plugs... The soldering helped me no end with... 1 technique and 2...swearing...hay Ho it was worth it... Good luck with the vids and diy... Keep them coming....
OCC wires are not snake oil. it's easy to see improvements when measuring with them properly made. one of the few upgrades that are really worth while. it's not even an expensive upgrade - but on the note of using other cable or wires, there isn't a huge difference that your friends would notice.
The shield is normally connected to the receiver end earth, more accuralty said the shield is to be earthed on the high impedance side of the cable.
The best place for a phono preamp is close as possible to the cartridge. EMT engineers designed everything to work together for reliability and sonics. If you do not like the way the preamp sound then redesign it or EQ it externally.
Hi! It seems that those XLR connectors are of NEUTRIK brand. If so they are the best of the best of professional connectors for decades ! And yes, don't throw it away! (I think i'm gona make a cable like yours for my EMT 948. Thanks for the idea.)
Indeed!
Analog is umami for your ears.
My CH Precision P1 phono stage have balanced inputs. You are most likely to find balanced inputs in hi-end phono preamps. Some manufacturers like Boulder and HSE SWISS take it to extreme and only include balanced inputs in their phono stages.
Nice thanks! Remember though that also the incoming signal must be balanced otherwise it's useless.
@@anadialog A phono cartridge is a Balance output unit
Yes, that is correct, what I meant is that you also need a tonearm or turntable that has a balanced output and 99% are unbalanced. In that sense.
You the best so far n very understanding thank you bro 👍😎
Hi, I was considering the EMT TSD cartridges? What is your take on them? I was looking into a current TSD? Any suggestions? I have a heavy enough arm for it! Thanks
Love them! Very very good all-rounder. Can't go wrong.
@@anadialog ok, thanks!
Hello. I was seeing your video and was curious about the older connector you show.
I need to make a cable for the rs212 tonearm that uses the 7 pin connector, and I don't know it's reference..
Can you be so kind to share it?
Best regards from Portugal.
Jorge
HI, Guido, : I bag Your pardon, but far or near from “magic”, You can make things, that many of us can’t to do.- Thanks Guido, and excuse me also for my English Language.- ( Aldo ).-
Thx!
If you modify your EMT gear, then be aware that EMT went out of business I think in 2005(ish) so if you mess things up it is hard to bring it back to the original. Hans-Ludwig Dusch (a long term EMT employee/developer) is running a small business repairing EMT gear, but in general there is not an infinite amount of spare parts available so be careful! Just saying... ;-)
You did not see the whole video I am afrai and not even my EMT video. My EMT is coming directly from Hans Michael Fabritius...the best together with Dusch. In any case I did not modify anything I just detached the internal tonearmwire and used the one made by who...Dusch!
@@anadialog I apologize, you are right I did not watch the whole video.
No worries!
Yes they do
binder gmbh s a german connector manufacturer for profesionnal -Franz Binder is the founder of the company . they have distributors across europe - from the plastic bag it is serie 712 and ordering part number is 99 0413 00 05 and can be bought from RS or Farnell
'OK guys and gals" would be more polite than "OK guys" 😀
Guys is commonly accepted for female and male when used this way!😉
HI, Guido, : with Your magic fingers, You can work Miracles ! - : Congratulations once again, from your Fans and I .-
Thanks but my fingers are far from magic...;-)
Get a good quality 5 conductor cable to go into the binder 712 and split it later on into RCA and ground using solder and heatshrink. Don't do his beginner mistakes.
Are you still using your Primaluna Dialogue HP?
Why such a question...? 🤐
@@anadialog just asking as I know you’d replaced your Technics. I thought you might’ve got rid of your Primaluna too
Well, you guessed right...stay tuned! ;-)
👌👌
Why destroy a cable my god there is stuff out there , quality stuff so you can make your own
True, but this is OCC copper for a few dollars and I can reuse those XLR plugs...unbeatable IMO!
I like Your Videos so I can help as a thank You. You can send me the cable and connectors. I will solder it for You, for no charge. If You want of course.
How kind of you! Thank you so much! The problem is that I burned the plastic of the binder (how embarrassing) so I would have to buy it again plus I already got the one made by Dusch...but thanks again. I GREATLY APPRECIATE IT!
Don't use RCA sockets or plugs worst connection you can get instead use BNC 50 ohms and are they 50 or 75 rcas? Probably not!
alternatively use lxr plugs and sockets or both silver coated not gold
Use a 330 pF film capacitor on earth cable to ground
OCC copper is just BS mate all copper wire is OCC That's How It's Made extracting meltan copper through a di forma
I don't trust that balanced cable looks crap you want it teflon or silicone sheath wire with a outer sheath rubber silicone coating to cut down microphonics
No you connect the shielding to your amplifier not the other way round to the tonearm making sure the ground wire from tonearm is not connected to the Shield and is separate to the RCA Jack or to a nut on the amplifier, the RCA connection is better grounding for tonearm grounding
it doesn't look like triple shielded looks like double shielding anyway you're better off going with quadruple shelving.
If it's triple shielding there should be a special plastic layer what is conductive check with your multimeter, and the foil and the braid I don't see the plastic shielding only the foil and copper braid what I would rather have silver braiding.
Make sure the iron is fully hot you don't need to have set a low temperature only low temperature is useful for or microprocessors 75 watt 100-watt iron is fine and desirable make sure you tin your wires first and use a bit of resin in a syringe make sure you have good quality solder 4% silver minimum, after tin the wires and the connector apply pressure and enough heat to melt don't worry about if it melts a plastic a bit. Make sure the solder flows well ,,
hi this is very silly video just don't see the point of doing this again pre amp crazy about i have bat ears
an i just can't tell any thing when you change cable in reel to reel decks you get a bit of hum pick up
you got to have the amp very high the computer can pick up changes not safe to amp sig that high
do your ears it like brother did
No point? Are you ready to spend 250€ for the only cable available?
Crimping ratchet only those are trash throw them away