THE NIGHTMARE JOB IS BACK! | Thomas Nagy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2024
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TimeCodes:
0:00 - Intro
0:27 - Flat batteries once again
1:34 - Faulty Renault Trafic?
3:48 - First Job of the week (An EICR)
9:43 - Update on the apprenticeships
11:38 - Cleaning the vans with the steamer
12:44 - Answering you question (Q&A)
12:48 - Q1. Foldable traffic cones
13:25 - Q2. Shopping at Aldi and Costco
13:52 - Q3. Feeding my staff
14:45 - Q4. New style of content
15:22 - Q5. Electric vans
16:22 - Q6. Am I finished with domesic work?
17:12 - Investigating the batteries
22:45 - Fixing outdoor electrics
26:38 - Heading over to the nightmare job
27:14 - The nightmare job!
36:00 - Hammersmith bridge issues
39:06 - An interesting EICR (With a small issue?)
WARNING:
This video is for entertainment purposes only. If you use the information from this video for your own projects then you assume complete responsibility for the results.
60 amp hour vehicle battery with a 0.6amp draw will power for 100 hours or just over 4 days.
that would explain why the batteries are dying on you Thomas
I love this new style of content
Yeah I was about to un-sub, got a bit stale.
Liking the new style, some shorter vids be appreciated too - hard to find over 30mins of free time in one go
@@craigedgar2828 then you can't be interested in the content if you can't find 30mins in a week.
On feeding your staff... I've worked in half a dozen places where food, beer and snacks are laid on thick and fast. Mostly tech companies (similar to the top secret one you did some work for that time). Never once have I seen or even heard of anyone taking the piss. It's always respected and seen as a two way street. You just have to hire the right people and make sure the company culture is good across the board, not just the perks.
I've done some work in the Microsoft store in London and even as an outside contractor you can help yourself to snacks and drinks, there's no reason to take the piss.
Make sure you latch the bonnet catch when measuring current - some vehicles don't go fully to sleep if open. Also some take minutes to fully shut down after ignition off
Thanks for the tips pal!!
Also make sure the keys are well out of range too
@@thomasnagy CTek, Sealey and many others now do bluetooth battery monitors if you wanted something you can pop on and check the status without firing up the vehicle. Would be ideal for your bikes too. Cteks unit (approx £50inc) definitely allows multiple vehicles to be linked on the app at the same time. Victron do a really smart one that does current up to 500a as well at about £120inc
monitor the current while you pull one fuse at a time to pinpoint the device that is causing the battery to drain. If it is a common problem there could be an ecu update available.
mike please do some more teardowns
I tell the customer I've not tested the downlights and put them down as a limitation and reasons why. I also make them aware that there could be further issues and faults if we introduce a new board or RCD. Good luck on the way to 100k Tom 👍.
So the battery problem you are seeing is real, funny enough we have it too. Last year the company I work for switched from Renault Kangoos to relatively new Renault Traffic with Sortimo Racking and all that good stuff. When we picked the vans up from the dealership, not even one van wanted to start on its own and hab to be resurrected with battery starters. Every time one of the vans stands a little while because somebody doesn't need it we have to kick-start the battery. I think it's a Renault problem and our dealership said its normal unfortunately, something with the radio, car computer and all the electronic it doesn't shut off completely. To get around the problem, we have to drive the vans every 500km for at least an hour or out it on a constant charger. Hope that this can help you, greetings from a German spark.
There is a power leak draining the battery but the main issue is the size of the battery. A van designer assumes the van is always on the road every day with motorway miles. Get a bigger high power battery and this will help. In winter the battery drain will be worse when using heater and such and then combined with cold starting will start to grind you down
Remember to disconnect that Anderson connector before you drive off with your van.
I used a Neutrik "PowerCon True top" and forgot to disconnect the cable (230V in, not an external charger) once.
It ripped the connector, its socket and the rivets out of the metal, leaving a couple of female spade connectors behind.
get a fluro spiral cable and hook it to your door from the connector as a reminder...lol
I've seen on paramedics' cars, they have a connector mounted in a side body panel for a blue 16A connector, like a caravan hookup, but there's a solenoid built into the socket so that when you start the engine the plug is ejected.
The whole thing about access to live parts if you unscrew the pendant cap is a bit moot. You can remove the bulb and get access to live terminals you can shove your finger into, at a convienient height! The regs don't really cover this as a potential source of shocks. This is one of the most likely places you're going to get a problem, changing a bulb (and forgetting to turn the light off first because you can't remember which way round the switch is: because it's controlled by 3 switches around the room).
James. Re battery terminals. Loosen bolt, open terminal jaws, push down the taper of the battery terminal, then tighten.
Current Battery reading Vauxhall Vivaro 2018. Following same methods, bonnet latch alarm and waiting for shut down etc Big cable 0.34A small cable 0.49A. On a team of 18 all with same year models over half have had new batteries after 3years. All the vans used as daily drivers are still on original batteries
Split charge system with a second battery for the auxiliary items like the water heater could be the way to go
smart alternator so waste of time. would have to be battery to battery direct.
I am enjoying this new format. Mixing it up a bit has brought me back to your channel. The better production quality helps as well, better camera work and editing (without going all artisan electric fancy editing, please don't ever do that).
If you’re going to put an Anderson plug on make sure it’s incredibly obvious so that someone doesn’t try and drive off with it connected. I know an ice cream man and several of his colleagues have pulled docks off the wall at his work
You can get ones that auto disconnect when then the engine is started the fire service and ambulance service use then
@thomas nagy Solar panels!
I run three work vans with GPS tracking, led lighting and accessories - Tried all sorts to eliminate standby draw before realising its a fools errand today = we need electronics running.
I've put a small flexible solar panel on each van where practical + a cheap pwm charge controller on each = problem solved. Even generates current under the garage lights when parked inside 👍
With modern vehicles you need to give them time to go to sleep before taking a current draw reading. You can't just close and lock it then take a reading, you won't get an accurate result. If you want to change your battery without the aggro of re registration, just use your jump pack across the cables. Depending on the vehicle it can take up to 50 minutes to fully shut down.
Im in my final year of my Level 3 course and watching your videos really help!! 🙌🏻
I really like the format of putting highlights at the start, gets me excited for what's to come 👍
Glad you like it :)
A good tip for the 4way board house when you have those grey style dumb electric meters. There's a flathead slot to isolate the load side, which means when installed there's no need to install and double pole isolation switch!
I love the 'standing up' mime at the start of the Q&A regarding cones! 😀
Although using a charger while swapping in a bigger battery sounds like a good idea, the whole logic behind having to use diagnostic equipment to change the battery is so you can basically tell the vehicle what size battery is fitted in order to optimise smart charge, stop/start, etc. so it's not a good idea.
Also, can you do a review on that clamp meter. I'm a mechanic and I'm currently looking for hand held dc clamp meter.
Really enjoy your content. Thanks 👍
We had an auxiliary battery build into our work fleet ( basically a battery in parallel on a switch) the switch in in the dash and when your gone low hit the switch and no jump start it's worth looking into
BBC vehicles had a similar arrangement, some even had a second alternator, to charge a technical supply battery to power all broadcast equipment in the vehicle without affecting the normal battery’s
Thank you for providing us with this great video. I hope you stay safe !
Use a battery tender when they sit we use them in boats and cars that we don't use all the time just keeps them topped up
Helpful tip on the van standby current test. If you leave the van alone for one hour and repeat the parasitic load test, it will give the can bus network time to go into sleep mode. You will get a more accurate current
It could still be the sortimo stuff. The control circuit for that voltage sense relay must take some current and the relay to hold the power in. It doesn’t take zero. Monitor the smaller cables to it or the ground.
@ Thomas Nagy,
Thanks for a really good video, that covered so many things.
Also thanks for the advice on the air pressure tripping the RCD, I would never have suspected that, I don't think a lot of people would have put 2 & 2 together and came up with that result.
Top work!
Loving these long weekly episodes - Just one thing though, gives us some info on the merch!
The mrs has emmerdale i have my weekly episodes of thomas nagy.. Good to have you bk... 👍😁
Great new style of content Tom. With your battery issues, with the van locked the alarm will be armed and possibly drawing a small current. If you have the time remove 1 fuse at a time and see if the current draw drops.
That battery clamp looks like it’s tightened to the max. Try loosing the clamp and tapping the clamp down the post a bit more then tighten.
About that outside socket full of water: In Belgium the most commonly used sockets and switchgear brand is Niko. Their outdoor backboxes for switches and sockets have 2 5x5mm knockouts on the back right near the corners diagonally opposed to one another, and the backboxes are designed to have the edges sit slightly (1mm) away from the mounting surface. This is done to avoid exactly this problem: Niko advises to knock out the bottom square (depending on which of the possible 4 directions you mount it it's one or the other) so condensation or water that finds its way inside can just drain out.
Downside is ants and other small bugs do find their way inside through the drain hole, so it's probably a good idea to keep an eye on that.
I always first fix my cables to every practical position possible on lighting to future proof install , the cable is in place but not used , I always use 10mm on new shower & oven circuits
Your batteries have to be registered to the vehicle.
If you don't register the battery the vehicle won't charge properly.
Beware what battery charger you use .You need one that is AGM compatible.
Everything turned off it should draw 50ma approx.
ah, so those are apple vehicles with apple batteries that are cryptographically linked ?
@@AmauryJacquot no, you can buy fairly cheap OBD tools that can do this via UDS.
@@Adam-eb3rs guess you missed the joke 🤣
You could also try checking while the vehicle engine is idle and also in stop-start mode like when it's at the traffics lights with clutch up.
Try running down the fuses measuring volts across them with a DMM. There should be a couple of mV drop across the guilty fuse(s). Much quicker than removing each fuse in turn and measuring the current.
Hi Tom, weekly vids are perfect! Thanks.
Well done on the van fix, ur a proper engineer.
Mechanics aren’t mechanics anymore, they are technicians, plug the vehicle in and ‘computer says no’
I had a shitty car a while back and one day it just stopped working , and i had 3 different mechanics telling me 3 different faults and they said it could fix the car. How can you tell someone to pay 1000 quid and it might fix the car....
@@cocoino2307 welcome to the "wonderful" world of computer controlled cars.
Oh... and mechanics that "diagnose" your car by looking to see if there are any "service bulletins".
Are you sure they are not engineers, as every man and his dog seem to be these days, you don't get many engineers on the tools, yet a lot of people call themselves engineers😂😂, especially plumbers.
Agree with your comments on the van issue with the RAC It's basic checking, probably page one in their book. 🤔
Reference changing the battery to a bigger one. You really need to have the new battery coded to the van. It is done like this so the charging control system is able to know it has a new battery and it’s now 120ah as opposed to 60ah. It basically then knows how much capacity it has to to work with. As most modern vehicles have a smart alternator they don’t always charge when the engine is running. Instead waiting until all the criteria is met before engaging. So even though the van could be driven all day the criteria might not have been met to enable charging.
Some Vehicles can take 10-15 mins after locking for all the modules to "power down" .. also make sure hood is latched before locking and waiting
hood open may keep things alive, touchless entry/start keyfobs and them being close can also keep things alive. some vehicles can take well over three minutes to go fully to sleep.
not to mention bluetooth/cellphones linked to vehicle infotainment system.
I feel your pain. Just had a fridge delivered today and when they took the doors off to bring it inside they ripped the wire for the bottom door sensor. They put the doors back on , covered it up and left. It's hard to find good service these days. They also put one of the hinges on wrong.
You’re very welcome! Glad you’re enjoying the steamer bud 😁
I love even though you are down south. You still have the highway maintenance in Welsh on the van. Top man. Hopefully you get some work up here in Wales.
re back feed, twenty years ago i bought a business property which i knew was in dire need of many things, got inspections from roofers, plumbers and electricians etc. Didn't know what an eicr was back then, but the spark i went with came back with a report that said basically we have to start again. 4 consumer units were turned off and main fuse pulled. he started stripping out, i was chatting to him when he got belted, turns out a radial was actually a ring. The other end of the ring was in a fifth consumer unit which we didn't know about and was actually by-passing the meter. You may have gathered i'm not a spark, but me and the spark lived to be a bit smarter! In my case i'm smarter because although I'm a graduated TH-cam electrician i still hire a professional when i need stuff done, the spark got to retire a few years later. (not just on what he charged me!). A word of advice, you might be safe 99% of the time, but if there was a 1% chance of winning the lottery - how many tickets would you buy? Think about it...........
Re.parking - I read somewhere that some boroughs do tradesmans permits
Interesting, I'll have a look into it, thanks for the tip :)
There's still some permit shops around West London, all you need is a utility bill from a customer and you can get a whole book on the cheap.
Brighton do permits, £900 a year per van. Only covers 9am-5pm after which you can be ticketed between 5pm-8pm when parking enforcement is still in operation. Most times it's cheaper to get the ticket.
Yup, some of my better customers had them. I think they cost £5 per ticket per day. In books of ten irc. Look like a scratch card. This is about 8 years ago mind.
@@thomasnagy try asking about parking dispensation permits
Any of you guys down in Devon over the weekend i though I had seen one of your vans parked up in crockernwell . Tbh it was a very quick glimpse as i was driving along 🤓
Amazing content as always Ton, Love the new video style. Keep it up lads
Give and take like that is how my colleague and I work.... Much smaller company... Just the 2 of us, but the give and take system breeds more loyalty from staff/colleagues
I work for a company that had fleet vehicles and every single one of the fleet vehicles had on board Chargers that had solar panels mounted on the roof and also plugged in if the vehicles were to be parked for extended periods of time. It was helpful for whenever we had somebody go on vacation and they neglected to shut off their radio or unplug their computer charger
18:00 that is a lot of standby current. Few things, if you have keyless entry / go (push button start) can cause a higher drain if the key is within about 15-25' of the van, and then if you have a telematics unit on them? Also is there a "hood sensor" to know its open or not? Many cars will take a while to go to sleep, so you might have to close the hood and leave the car alone for a while, (make sure you don't have the keys anywhere around).
Love the new format Thom. It works great :)
Glad you like it!
A parasitic battery drain as its known as should be no more than 50mA 600 mA is way too high so the vehicle is still "awake" things like body control modules and capacitors in door handles for keyless entry can take over an hour to go to sleep. So as stated above make sure everything is locked and totally asleep before checking. You can also use voltage drop across the fuses to test using a multi meter set to millivolts and when the vehicles in sleep mode you should have zero volts across the fuse.
Thomas it's only a justifiable expense to a customer to pass on a parking ticket in the event you have informed them of what will happen if a ticket is issued and do they have an alternative. Springing a ticket on someone with out consent is a no no , and it's your responsibility to tell them, avoid unnecessarily pissing clients off and make your life easier.
Hi I'm not an electrician but I' find them very informative. Always look forward to next one .
Made it all the way to the end of the video and loved the new style of content !!! Sending you positive vibes from CANADA!!! Alex.K :)
Appreciate it pal!
You should see the main boards I get from the insurance companies here in South-Africa. Some boards look like that and then they get the local guy that knows how to do it. Our government just brings out new laws but there is no one to enforce these laws.
"give and take" - you see, they're out there they exist, reasonable rational kind people. This is the kind of boss I would like to have; this is the kind of boss I would like to be. Nice one mate!
I work for a company who operates with that logic, and it's great. From my experience, companies like that are rare.
That martindale is what us cable jointer use to.test polarity on cable heads.
With reference to you loose terminal and the bathrooms, In fairness that is why people do their own work, electrical, building, mechanical. So many people don’t give a monkey’s what ever their trade is (or are not given time to fix problems)
It's the age old rant about the DIYers, sometimes DIY work is better because it s work for whoever is doing it and not tied to an hourly rate. could also end up being an unsafe dog's dinner... But tradesmen do those too at times, sadly.
You should put AED defibs in your trucks especially the bucket truck if your working near railways and roads etc. Could save your life.
Problems getting apprentices into work and colleges you say..... Yeah its a bit of a task ;) Nice video
Mark, full respect to what you achieve at A121, particularly tool donation, awesome idea
The other thing you can do, which is pretty common in commercial vehicles here in Canada, is a small permanently mounted trickle charger with a shore line connection to top up the batteries overnight/over weekend.
Done the thing with using a charger to keep radio etc alive while battery change, if worried or if a smart charger use a small set of jump cables and another battery ;)
that hat with the corks attached with string is for flies in the outback, they get pretty intense
Re battery drain - had a similar issue a few years back with a Jeep Grand Cherokee. Went on holiday for more than 2 weeks, came back and it was dead on the drive. The vehicle was less than 1 yr old, so called out Jeep rescue. Who - as they recharged the battery - said there was nothing wrong with the car, we hadn't driven it enough...
probably the sink goes on top of the bog like a saving unit combo, you wash your hands after taking a crap and the used water goes in the tank and it gets used on the next flush
I own a Renault Megane RS300 - this is fitted with a 'DESS' battery - essentially a 19ah lead acid battery and some ultra capacitors . These go flat *very* quickly when left for a while, or as you point out, open and close the door a few times - I feel your pain!
Renault have released a software fix to try and help the situation, although I believe the fix was to simply shutdown some systems quicker. Some cars/vans systems an take an hour or more to fully shutdown! Not sure if there is there same for your van?
The 'dash lighting up like a christmas tree' or phantom faults/spanner light are also indicative of battery issues - cars/vans are VERY sensitive to voltage variations.
Are the vans using keyless entry? I have a running theory (which a few others have mentioned) that keyless door systems are always listening for the key, and if they appear within range then systems start back up even when not unlocked - so if the keys are in range of the van, you you frequently go past them with the keys on your pocket then it could be waking up systems and thus draining the battery. On my RS300, I have disabled through software, mostly because of the battery issue but also due to the security concern! If you cant disable it within the settings menu, a faraday pouch will help here.
To help find the draw, you could measure the voltage drop over a fuse - just google 'automotive fuse voltage drop chart' to bring up charts and you can start to narrow down what fuse and thus what system is causing the draw. South main auto TH-cam channel has done a few videos on this.
I have the same issue with the Tarfic, it takes a few hours before the systems fully shutdown. I never thought about the keyless entry, that could be a very valid point. Thanks for the input, it's much appreciated.
Thanks for changing to the suggested format for the video, it is considerably more watchable.
Noted!
Another brilliant in Educational video as always Thomas keep them coming, 👌
Appreciate it pal!
I had the 'everything fail' light show in the original Pug 307, that was because the key was fully turned (as when started) and it hadn't returned and that caused an electrical fault. remember the cars that used to catch fire!! that was why!!
Nice one......regarding the battery drawing power ( 2-3 amps ) while asleep....it's not asleep....! it still needs to feed the ECU power which in turn powers the alarm and Imobiliser system , apparently Renault know about this problem but they have had tens of thousands of these faulty modules made and paid for so they are using them.......👍
Another great video from the Nagy empire..............Thomas Nagy : electrician, van washer, labourer, TH-camr, mechanic................👍😎
I'd fit a split charge system with separate battery with it's own completely separate feed and fusebox from the main battery, you can also then use the aux battery as a jump starter.
Good stuff on the van standby current. 0.6A x 10 hours ( overnight) is 6AH Which is 10% of your 60AH battery. If you have done short trips round town and the battery is not full when you park up.........
Over a few days and it will really struggle to start.
60AH battery seems small for a van esp diesel. Prob smallest that Renault can get away with. Add accessories trackers, alarms cameras etc and it’s not big enough.
Add a second battery and possible upgrade the alternator. I'm torn on a cut off switch or a diode for the second battery.
CTEK has a nice connector on their car battery chargers and they also have a waterproof connector to put on cars, that might also be an option (vs the other ones you saw). Other option would be those connector they use on ambulances and other emergency vehicles. They can automatically be ejected when someone starts the engine. Emergency vehicles without that mode tend to have a circuit installed to disable the starter while the car is charging, too many cables have been forgotten and ripped out ;)
Another great video!
I am all for electric vans and cars and it’s the future but we are not there just yet it works in city’s for short trips but not out in the sticks.
I own a 62 plate Renault Kangoo and I am getting 61 MPG for a 1.5 D
Would be great to see another unit tour video
This was another good one, lots of little pieces of knowledge sharing. Top work.
There are 12v plugs you can plugin to the car to keep power to the vehicle when doing battery replacements :P
On external vertical conduit runs I solvent weld the upward facing side of a join but leave the downward facing one push-fit.
Pro tip from a non-pro: For a really neat conduit joint form the end into a socket using a heat gun and another bit of conduit as a mandrel. Needs a bit of care but it's far less noticeable than a normal coupler where appearance matters.
There is an isolator built in to the meter for safe isolation of the meter tails 👍
My dad worked for a leasing company in the maintenance department and some cars kept flatting batteries and needed a jump start, it took a while to figure out, but it ended up being the trackers when parked up in certain places couldn't get a GPS signal so kept retrying constantly so flattened the battery. So they disconnected the trackers and no more flat batteries
great video as always tom!
The current draw sounds high even for a controller kam, keep alive memory, must have been tempting to pull the factory fuses to find the big draw.
you can also do your charger battery change trick through back feeding the obd port.
I would be wary of trying to swap the van battery whilst using a charger to keep the van alive. Without a battery in place, the charger voltage could float up and damage the van ECUs. I would use a set of jumper cables to connect to another van instead.
Good thought.
36:17 You're welcome lads!
Do the vehicles have stop start? Replace battery’s with a AGM. Check the current over a hour,some systems take a long time to “ go to sleep”
I had a DMF and clutch kit installed 4 months ago. I was gonna do it myself as I always do, but not being that well, got the garage to do it. Went to pick it up, wouldn't start, starter not even clicking. They club hammered the starter and I was on my way. Said it needs a new starter. Kept club hammer in van for a week till i had time to change the starter. Turned out they didn't put the earth strap on the engine, it was tucked up and rubbing on the bell housing for and earth. This why your honor, I have a club hammer in the door pocket.
Loving this new mechanics channel I’ve found
18:21 , Tom is ready for the next lockdown right there with all that bog roll .
Content has been brilliant recently! 👏🏻
Happy to hear that!
Great video Tom, with nice varied content, I’m a long term subscriber from the early days, and it’s been interesting following your journey, especially your recent expansion. I’m sure you’ll one day be the Charlie Mullins of the electrical sector.
On the subject of Hammersmith bridge, they are very unlikely to knock it down and rebuild it as it’s a Grade 2 listed structure. As you said though it would be the cheapest and easiest way to do it ! Look forward to the next vid 👍
Thanks for sticking round, I'm glad you enjoy the content!
Locktite on the terminal screws does the trick
I had the same problem with the car battery going flat, turns out to be a combination of the battery never being fully charged as start-stop was a constant draining in traffic and the dash cam which recorded 24/7. The dash cam draws 600mA continually 70Ah battery / 0.600 = 116.6Hours 116.6 / 24H = 4.8 Days to completely flatten the car battery just from the dash cam, then add the car's standby electronics!
Powerpoles for the win , whether the big'uns for Charging or the little ones for stuff like radios
vans and quiescent load is a big thing - vehicles which even supposedly have electro mechanical isolators still have issues with going flat if left and not on a conditioner
This hits close to home: I had my Vespa GT300 serviced by the dealer a year ago. (Major maintenance, all fluids, all consumables, valve adjust, etc.) It seems safe to assume with the price and the confidence they exude that it should be done right. But one year later, it just dies while I'm leaving work. I had it towed home and got into it the following Saturday. The spark plug cap had fallen off. Easiest repair I've ever done. It's not supposed to happen because there is a built-in retaining fork to hold it down. Must not have been used. Then I go to change the oil and discover that the filter and fill cap are way over-torqued. I sent a complaint and got no reply. I dread next time I need to take a wheel off because they are already high-torque bolts. If they are over-torqued I don't stand a chance. (I own torque wrenches, but no power drivers. They apparently like using the latter.) Dudes with impact drivers think everything is easy. But they don't give a damn about the next guy, or your engine casing.
10:30 I can first hand back this up. Started HGV apprenticeship over 4 years ago, supposed to finish summer 2020, looking more like early 2022 now. Although brand new staff have been brought in, they don't really care all that much and definitely didn't pre Covid
So can I did an apprenticeship and the college put me with the worse employer did no checks or anything so bizarre
@@lukecarr9570 yeah colleges don't care anymore, it's all about money money money
Have you thought about using the radio smoke alarm bases save you bringing a 3 core upstairs ?