I ordered one of these a few weeks ago(still waiting for it to arrive) for my weird scrambler build. Thanks for making a detailed video on it, it's always nice to see how others have done their installs.
+furnimaker G'day mate, thanks for tuning in. You'll love it. One little annoyance I have found is that it won't shut off with the engine running, I have to switch the engine run switch to the off position first. The XS1100 has a battery powered transistor controlled ignition (TCI) and it tends to latch the relay to earth when it fires the coils. It's not a big issue, but something to be aware if you have a similar setup. Andy
Thanks for the heads up. My project is a 1996 bmw k1100rs, which presents a bunch of issues because of the fuel injection and ecu. I have an M-unit v2, and the m-switch minis for hand controls, and I'm hoping that all of the motogadget components play nice together.
+Robert Cig no mate. Power that goes to the ignition switch to one side of the relay and all the wires out of the switch to the other side. You only need earth on the relay for the M-Lock
AWESOME ANDY ONCE AGAIN!!! I DO PREFER THE STANDARD KEY TO THE M LOACK AS IF I WANT I CAN INSERT THE KEY AAND NEVER LOOSE IT !!! I CAN SEE THE M LOCK FALL ON TO THE RODE NOW YOU HAVE TO USE THE SWITCH ON THE BARS CHEVYS USE A KEY RADIO YOU KEEP THE KEY IN YOUR POCKET AND JUST HIT START OR OFF AS LONG AS YOUR 10 FT FROM IT
How in the world did I miss this video? Let me get back to watching it and smashing that Like button. Re: Blood and guts. If you're not bleeding, you're not fixing anything.
great job, but cant see the point.. if you have to go in your pocket for the fob and hold it close to the receiver, might as well use a key. Now I do love the keyless system on my car and BMW F900XR.
+CKaeberich Photografie G'day mate, thank you for tuning in. That is a good question. The park light function ceases to exist as you tie all of the wires out of the old ignition switch together, so they will all switch on and off with the M-Lock. If so desired you could wire the park light independent of the M-Lock and operate it by a dedicated switch. The issue with that is the park light is also the tail light so the switch would have to remain on when you start the bike. You could get clever with an independent switched feed for the park light and tie in the M-Lock to the tail light via diodes, but I can see a flat battery being inevitable because I know that I would leave the park switch on at some point. Andy
Wait. Did you put saddlebags on Basket Case? Can't blame ya. They are handy. I'm thinking about removing the fairing and installing a regular headlight and front indicators on my Venturer, for hot weather. I think I'll keep the panniers on year round just because of how nice it is to be able to carry things what won't fit under a cargo net on the seat.
Hi Mate, just caught up with your videos etc, whats the gun thing you used to put a thread into the plate ally for the relay called? i have seen the big 1s but yours looks handy. cheers.
Hey Andy, when you tie all your wires together at the top will that encompass your ignition/starter circuit? I have an xs750 triple and I think I've got my head around how to do this!! Your videos are awesome!! I'm a melbournian, where are you from?
+Adrian Whyte g'day mate, yes essentially you are bypassing the ignition circuit and simply fitting a relay into the main power supply. I'm in Hobart mate.
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions thanks mate, that makes sense!! Tassie looks great for riding! Thanks for the help and all the videos, really useful and I appreciate the effort!
Thanks mate. I will be riding off the Spirit of Tasmania on Wednesday the 3rd of May and heading to NSW for the XS1100 National Rally. Meeting a mate at the Wallan BP somewhere around 8:30, you're welcome to come and have a look. It will be in touring mode with pannier bags, but still looking cool. Andy
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions is that 830 in the morning or the evening? That sounds cool, I might just do that! I've been building an xs750 for the best part of a year now but it's going well, your videos have been a constant reference!
+Adrian Whyte in the morning mate. Like my Facebook page, I'll probably post updates on the trip up. Love the XS triples. I also love the 650's, they make great chopper/bobbers
Does this work on Any motorcycle. My friend bought a k100 1986. And i try to help him. But im not sure if it same procedure on his bike. So i was afraid id ruin something. And it seem like there is no main fuse
+Robert Cig according to Motogadget it will work on any bike. You just need to have the relay between the power in and out of your ignition switch. Thanks for tuning in, Andy
hey Andy, How do i protect my mlock from over voltage? it says only 6 - 18v allowed to operate the mlock, do you think i can use a dc to dc step down with 7.5v output 5A with built in over voltage and overload protection?
G'day Benz, I just rely on the regulator/rectifier to keep the voltage in check. If it overcharges due to reg/rec failure my Lithium Ion battery will burst into flames under my arse and the m-lock will be the least of my worries. I'm not an electrician mate but your suggestion sounds reasonable, good thinking 99. Thanks for tuning in.
As Andy implies you should never get anywhere near 18v steady state on your bike electrics, however transient pulses of short duration may be present. A simple LC low pass filter should take care of any spikes. A dc-dc converter seems a complex way to tackle this and is another point of potential failure.
G'day Omar, yes mate I have seen the M-Unit V.2. I think it is brilliant, had I known about them when I built my bike I would have gone down that path. Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comments, Andy
So the wires from the M Lock sensor doesn't connect to the wires that plugs into the ignition switch? Does the black wire from the M Lock sensor only plug into the #85 pin on the relay or does it need to be grounded on the bike frame? Can it connect to the negative terminal on the battery? If it is grounded to the bike frame or battery, do I need another ground for the relay? Can that be grounded to the negative terminal on the battery? Which wire plugs into #30 on the relay? The provided diagram says it's the 12V electric system but I'm not sure what that is.
G'day Kevin, Bikes main power supply from battery to relay pin #87 (this will be the wire feeding your old ignition switch) Relay pin #30 to your bikes electrical system (the old ignition switch power supply now joined to the post switch wires) Relay pin #85 to earth (battery or frame) M-Lock red wire to battery + M-lock black wire to negative (battery or frame, preferably battery) M-lock brown wire to relay pin #86
Thanks for the quick response Andy! I'm a complete novice so I just want to make sure I get this right. I'm installing the M Lock on a Honda Grom. The ignition switch has 4 wires going to it. The Red/Yellow wire goes to the main fuse which is 15A on the grom. It also goes to a Combination Meter and to the Regulator/ Rectifier. Since one end already goes to the battery via the fuse, the ignition end goes straight to pin #87 right? The Black/Red and Black/Yellow wires goes to the other 2 fuses and the solid Red wire goes to the Regulator/ Rectifier. Are these three the ones that need to be tied together to go to pin #30? i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/badboy00z/Grom%20wiring..png
The relay needs to go in the red and yellow wire between the main fuse and the ignition switch. Cut the Red/Yellow wire after the fuse and connect from fuse to pin #87 and from pin #30 to the ignition switch. Remove the ignition switch and tie all of the wires to the red/yellow wire coming from pin #30. Pin #85 to earth and M-Lock brown wire to pin #86, make sense? Andy
There's a 4 pin (4P in the diagram) connector that connects to the ignition switch. When I unplug that it removes the ignition switch from the "equation" and just leaves the 4 wires not connected to anything. 1) Red/Yellow wire by itself to pin #87. Tie the 3 remaining wires together to pin #30. 2) Tie all 4 wires together and that goes into pin #30. Add a split / additional wire to the Red/Yellow that goes into pin #87. Which method is the correct one? Thanks.
+Kevin Lam the relay has to switch the red/yellow wire. Remove the keyed ignition switch and tie all of the wires to the red/yellow. Cut the red/yellow between the main fuse and the new junction. The cut end that is coming from the fuse goes to #87 and the cut end running up to the new junction goes to #30. Make sense?
Why not wire it into the existing wires that went into the old ignition just put the relay behind the headlight not trying to be mean actually kinda more just asking a question wouldn’t that have worked though just using the old wiring harness and just adding the relay and sensor
G'day mate, thanks for watching. It is a 'Nutsert' tool, or nut riveter. They are widely available and allow you to fit an internally threaded rivet for panel or blind installations. Andy
That was one of the most informative videos that I've seen on the subject so far. Thank you for taking the time.
You're so bloody cutting edge fella lol.. great video as always Sir, always enjoy catching up with what your doing over there.
I ordered one of these a few weeks ago(still waiting for it to arrive) for my weird scrambler build. Thanks for making a detailed video on it, it's always nice to see how others have done their installs.
+furnimaker G'day mate, thanks for tuning in. You'll love it. One little annoyance I have found is that it won't shut off with the engine running, I have to switch the engine run switch to the off position first. The XS1100 has a battery powered transistor controlled ignition (TCI) and it tends to latch the relay to earth when it fires the coils. It's not a big issue, but something to be aware if you have a similar setup. Andy
Thanks for the heads up. My project is a 1996 bmw k1100rs, which presents a bunch of issues because of the fuel injection and ecu. I have an M-unit v2, and the m-switch minis for hand controls, and I'm hoping that all of the motogadget components play nice together.
I think that they will, that is a great combination. That M-Unit V2 is an impressive piece of kit.
Great to see the new technology being used on this bike, Lithium Ion battery is cool too.
Thanks mate
Ok thank you Andy. So i can also twist all 4 cables from ignition switch together and then install power in an power out. And ground ofcourse
+Robert Cig no mate. Power that goes to the ignition switch to one side of the relay and all the wires out of the switch to the other side. You only need earth on the relay for the M-Lock
Thank you again. I guess i better get an electrician. Since im clueless in electricity. Thank you for your effort sir
AWESOME ANDY ONCE AGAIN!!! I DO PREFER THE STANDARD KEY TO THE M LOACK AS IF I WANT I CAN INSERT THE KEY AAND NEVER LOOSE IT !!! I CAN SEE THE M LOCK FALL ON TO THE RODE NOW YOU HAVE TO USE THE SWITCH ON THE BARS
CHEVYS USE A KEY RADIO YOU KEEP THE KEY IN YOUR POCKET AND JUST HIT START OR OFF AS LONG AS YOUR 10 FT FROM IT
How in the world did I miss this video?
Let me get back to watching it and smashing that Like button.
Re: Blood and guts. If you're not bleeding, you're not fixing anything.
great job, but cant see the point.. if you have to go in your pocket for the fob and hold it close to the receiver, might as well use a key. Now I do love the keyless system on my car and BMW F900XR.
Andy, I appreciate the information. I'd like to find a system that allows you to keep the FOB in your pocket. Nice video quality too!
Yes that would be great, I agree.
the m.unit blue can does this via bluetooth and your phone.
What was that tool you used for the Allen head screw? Looked like you punched some threads in
Nice neat install Andy. What is your take on the Motogadget M3 unit? It looks like it would make things pretty tidy.
Had I known about them a year or so ago I would have bought one, I think they're great.
hey andy, thank you for your really nice videos.... what happens to the park light funktion after installing the m-lock?
+CKaeberich Photografie G'day mate, thank you for tuning in. That is a good question.
The park light function ceases to exist as you tie all of the wires out of the old ignition switch together, so they will all switch on and off with the M-Lock.
If so desired you could wire the park light independent of the M-Lock and operate it by a dedicated switch.
The issue with that is the park light is also the tail light so the switch would have to remain on when you start the bike.
You could get clever with an independent switched feed for the park light and tie in the M-Lock to the tail light via diodes, but I can see a flat battery being inevitable because I know that I would leave the park switch on at some point. Andy
thank you for the quick respond.... sad news. no parking light, no german tüv :-(
Wait. Did you put saddlebags on Basket Case?
Can't blame ya. They are handy. I'm thinking about removing the fairing and installing a regular headlight and front indicators on my Venturer, for hot weather. I think I'll keep the panniers on year round just because of how nice it is to be able to carry things what won't fit under a cargo net on the seat.
I only fitted them to ride up to the National XS1100 Rally. They're going back on in a couple of weeks for a trip to Phillip Island
could it work on a modern vespa?
Hi Mate, just caught up with your videos etc, whats the gun thing you used to put a thread into the plate ally for the relay called?
i have seen the big 1s but yours looks handy.
cheers.
G'day John, they are Nutserts or Rivnuts
Hi I am from Germany and I have a Yamaha r1 2004 with immobilizer do you have this kit for my bike.
Hi, what if I forget to turn off the bike? stays on? is it mandatory to turn it off?
Hey Andy, when you tie all your wires together at the top will that encompass your ignition/starter circuit? I have an xs750 triple and I think I've got my head around how to do this!! Your videos are awesome!! I'm a melbournian, where are you from?
+Adrian Whyte g'day mate, yes essentially you are bypassing the ignition circuit and simply fitting a relay into the main power supply. I'm in Hobart mate.
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions thanks mate, that makes sense!! Tassie looks great for riding! Thanks for the help and all the videos, really useful and I appreciate the effort!
Thanks mate. I will be riding off the Spirit of Tasmania on Wednesday the 3rd of May and heading to NSW for the XS1100 National Rally. Meeting a mate at the Wallan BP somewhere around 8:30, you're welcome to come and have a look. It will be in touring mode with pannier bags, but still looking cool. Andy
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions is that 830 in the morning or the evening? That sounds cool, I might just do that! I've been building an xs750 for the best part of a year now but it's going well, your videos have been a constant reference!
+Adrian Whyte in the morning mate. Like my Facebook page, I'll probably post updates on the trip up. Love the XS triples. I also love the 650's, they make great chopper/bobbers
Does this work on Any motorcycle. My friend bought a k100 1986. And i try to help him. But im not sure if it same procedure on his bike. So i was afraid id ruin something. And it seem like there is no main fuse
+Robert Cig according to Motogadget it will work on any bike. You just need to have the relay between the power in and out of your ignition switch. Thanks for tuning in, Andy
hey Andy, How do i protect my mlock from over voltage? it says only 6 - 18v allowed to operate the mlock, do you think i can use a dc to dc step down with 7.5v output 5A with built in over voltage and overload protection?
G'day Benz, I just rely on the regulator/rectifier to keep the voltage in check. If it overcharges due to reg/rec failure my Lithium Ion battery will burst into flames under my arse and the m-lock will be the least of my worries. I'm not an electrician mate but your suggestion sounds reasonable, good thinking 99. Thanks for tuning in.
As Andy implies you should never get anywhere near 18v steady state on your bike electrics, however transient pulses of short duration may be present. A simple LC low pass filter should take care of any spikes. A dc-dc converter seems a complex way to tackle this and is another point of potential failure.
Have you seen the Motogadget m-Unit V.2 from revival?
G'day Omar, yes mate I have seen the M-Unit V.2. I think it is brilliant, had I known about them when I built my bike I would have gone down that path. Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comments, Andy
Where can I order this please
So the wires from the M Lock sensor doesn't connect to the wires that plugs into the ignition switch?
Does the black wire from the M Lock sensor only plug into the #85 pin on the relay or does it need to be grounded on the bike frame? Can it connect to the negative terminal on the battery? If it is grounded to the bike frame or battery, do I need another ground for the relay? Can that be grounded to the negative terminal on the battery?
Which wire plugs into #30 on the relay? The provided diagram says it's the 12V electric system but I'm not sure what that is.
G'day Kevin,
Bikes main power supply from battery to relay pin #87 (this will be the wire feeding your old ignition switch)
Relay pin #30 to your bikes electrical system (the old ignition switch power supply now joined to the post switch wires)
Relay pin #85 to earth (battery or frame)
M-Lock red wire to battery +
M-lock black wire to negative (battery or frame, preferably battery)
M-lock brown wire to relay pin #86
Thanks for the quick response Andy! I'm a complete novice so I just want to make sure I get this right. I'm installing the M Lock on a Honda Grom. The ignition switch has 4 wires going to it.
The Red/Yellow wire goes to the main fuse which is 15A on the grom. It also goes to a Combination Meter and to the Regulator/ Rectifier. Since one end already goes to the battery via the fuse, the ignition end goes straight to pin #87 right?
The Black/Red and Black/Yellow wires goes to the other 2 fuses and the solid Red wire goes to the Regulator/ Rectifier. Are these three the ones that need to be tied together to go to pin #30?
i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/badboy00z/Grom%20wiring..png
The relay needs to go in the red and yellow wire between the main fuse and the ignition switch. Cut the Red/Yellow wire after the fuse and connect from fuse to pin #87 and from pin #30 to the ignition switch. Remove the ignition switch and tie all of the wires to the red/yellow wire coming from pin #30. Pin #85 to earth and M-Lock brown wire to pin #86, make sense? Andy
There's a 4 pin (4P in the diagram) connector that connects to the ignition switch. When I unplug that it removes the ignition switch from the "equation" and just leaves the 4 wires not connected to anything.
1) Red/Yellow wire by itself to pin #87. Tie the 3 remaining wires together to pin #30.
2) Tie all 4 wires together and that goes into pin #30. Add a split / additional wire to the Red/Yellow that goes into pin #87.
Which method is the correct one?
Thanks.
+Kevin Lam the relay has to switch the red/yellow wire. Remove the keyed ignition switch and tie all of the wires to the red/yellow. Cut the red/yellow between the main fuse and the new junction. The cut end that is coming from the fuse goes to #87 and the cut end running up to the new junction goes to #30. Make sense?
Does the lock cut the engine when its started?
Ive fitted a mlock but the bike keep running after the mlock switches off!
Can it use on 80s bike ?
Yes mate, they can, my bike is a 1981 year model. Thanks for watching, Andy
Thanks, we both have the same name :D
Why not wire it into the existing wires that went into the old ignition just put the relay behind the headlight not trying to be mean actually kinda more just asking a question wouldn’t that have worked though just using the old wiring harness and just adding the relay and sensor
having to use the fob under side is really a waste of time from removing a key with the location of the m lock
Vai cortas as unhas antes de fazer algum video 😂
Buy a honda c125 and this comes as standard
$160+ for something that is worse than the $40 units...
mostynindustries.com.au/
Great vid as always Andy. What is the tool called that you used to fit the relay? The one that's like a pop rivet tool. Thanks
G'day mate, thanks for watching. It is a 'Nutsert' tool, or nut riveter. They are widely available and allow you to fit an internally threaded rivet for panel or blind installations. Andy
Thanks Andy