Thanks! I try hard to get quality shots to help folks see what is going on. Takes longer sometimes but I consider it important because I want to really show what you’re working on. Plus, sometimes it’s easier for me to do the work by looking at the video on my phone when I can’t actually get my head in there. Thanks for watching and the feedback, Calen. If it earned it, please ‘like’ the video, for the sake of the almighty algorithm. 😀
Best video on this problem that I've seen. My panel door arm snapped off flush, and I had to put a drywall screw in it to be able to remove it. I actually had 2 problems....PO capped off the vacuum line going through firewall. After I fixed that, it still didn't work, it was stuck on defrost. After watching your video, I found the broken arm. Thanks.
Thanks for the Video! Very helpful! My Jeeps been sitting since 2014, and the air never worked when I got it. I have replaced everything that was bad this week, only to find now the air doesn't come out the vents! Both of these arms are broken. SUMMIT parts on the way. Again thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Ed, That was a very helpful video and I know I will be able to use that information. Since Winter is almost on us here in Ohio. Just finishing up my frame repair on mine along with the installation of new rear control arms, brake hose and hard line since I have the gas tank still out. Already installed the new shocks,sway bar bushings and track bar. Thanks for the videos looking forward to your next video.
Glad the video can help, Carl. Man that’s a lot of rear end work! I’m sure removing the tank is in my future at some point but I know rust is going to make it a nightmare of a project. How did things go removing those upper bolts on the shocks?
@@CarbonsDIYGarage Well the gas tank was not a problem at all no rust issues there. Only had 1 upper shock bolt break, heat and PB blaster works wonders. Biggest problem was the track bar passenger side bolt had to cut it twice to get it out. In the spring or early summer will be replacing front chassis and suspension parts to finish.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage Ed, Is your Jeep from Texas, yours should not have much rust. My surprise is that how most every Jeep seems to be rode hard and put away wet. Owners don’t seem to believe in any maintenance must be a “playing in the dirt thing” cause most dirt bikes and atv’s suffer from the same affliction.
@@Manandmachine772 It’s lived all its life in Texas but seems like all previous owners have been as you described. All the work I’ve been doing really is just completing what should have been done periodically over the course of the past 205,000 miles/25 years. It was a Gulf Coast Beach buggy at some point so some of the surface rust and bolt rust, especially in the rear, is pretty rough. No through rust or frame rot though, so that’s good.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage oh yeah the salt water can be tough on them too. Be glad u don’t have the frame rot like us up here in the north. Mine has less the 160,000 miles and is 21 years old. I replaced brake calipers, pads, rotors and hoses on the front because some previous owner neglected them to wear thru the pad into the metal backing plate and into the rotor. But we will be all good here soon with making it back to tip top shape.
Hey any idea if the blend door for the floor can be lubricated. Mine closes but has a small gap so the heat or air always comes out the floor. Otherwise all blend door actuators look like they’re moving fine. Thanks buddy
Oh, good question! I don't honestly know since I haven't tried it. There's not really much (any?) access to the door and door hinge itself, at least not without taking the a/c box out and disassembling it. That said, I would think you could try squirting a little lubricant in there (say, maybe a silicone lubricant?) and maybe some will collect on rotating parts? Not a great answer, I realize... Let us know if you have any luck with it!
I also have a 97 TJ and for the life of me, I can't get into that spot to fix the broken plastic part. Both of mine are broken - I drove a drywall screw into the holes and was able to temporarily get that "fixed" for a few years and now the plastic part just rotates (the screw couldn't hold it anymore). How did you get your hands into that tight spot? what did you remove? The knee plastic part wasn't enough. did you remove the driver seat so you can laydown on that side looking up?
It’s definitely a tight squeeze! I removed that knee panel and used my camera through that area to help me see. Then I basically contorted myself (nearly upside down) to get in there. I kinda of laid down out the doorway (take the door off). Removing the seat might be a good option but mine was rusted in place. No secret sauce, though. It’s a tight squeeze. Sorry - good luck!
@@alexpasillas3187 Yup! Sorry, Alex. I could have done a better job with that. It’s inside, under the dash, right up against the a/c box in the center of the Jeep. This video shows a little better how I took the knee plate off to get some light and my camera in there. th-cam.com/video/MZJLy6v_wWY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mVKbGtjL0NDr6z2a Apologies for not having that clearer in the videos. Thanks for watching.
The part numbers for the actuators, at least for the 1997, 1998, and 1999, are as follows: Defrost actuator: 4864994 Panel actuator: 4864995 Floor actuator: 4864995 (same as Panel) Recirculating (over on the passenger side): 4864996 Search for those part numbers. I'm seeing some on eBay, Summit Racing, etc.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage hi thank you but really I can figure out any of this, I already check two mechanics and is been a disaster. Is a simple toI wish I can do it must like you did. Are you ever in the Jacksonville Fl area? I will pay you if yo fix my jeep please? I am really serious, let me know if you consider this please. I am really need sim that knows what to do. My name is yadi byway.
@@yadialf9483 Well, I’m at least half the country away from you so I don’t think that’s a good option. You might look for a local Jeep Facebook group or two. I bet you can find a few folks that would be eager to help you. Good luck!
Thanks for the Video. Im having the same issue. Did you have to push hard to get the Blend door lever on? I got it to line up but can't get it to snap in place and I don't want to push to hard and break it.
If I remember right, I didn’t get that satisfying “click” when it was in place either. I think I just pushed on it a bit, tried to pull it out a little, when it moved I pushed a little harder, etc. At some point it wouldn’t come out when I pulled so I knew it was in place. It’s been working great ever since so I guess my method worked and it’s in there… Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@prospectoverlanding Good luck. Let us know how it goes. I’m also assuming you have the correct part number for the location you’re trying to install it.
Mine’s a ‘97. My video should work for ‘97 - ‘99 and then the model designs started charging. I don’t have a parts list or service manual for an ‘06 but it wouldn’t surprise me that it’s quite a bit different, at least in layout.
Check out the video description for extra info, parts, tools, torques, and any updates.
Amazing how clear this video is for a spot that's so hard on the body to reach.
Thanks! I try hard to get quality shots to help folks see what is going on. Takes longer sometimes but I consider it important because I want to really show what you’re working on. Plus, sometimes it’s easier for me to do the work by looking at the video on my phone when I can’t actually get my head in there. Thanks for watching and the feedback, Calen. If it earned it, please ‘like’ the video, for the sake of the almighty algorithm. 😀
Best video on this problem that I've seen. My panel door arm snapped off flush, and I had to put a drywall screw in it to be able to remove it. I actually had 2 problems....PO capped off the vacuum line going through firewall. After I fixed that, it still didn't work, it was stuck on defrost. After watching your video, I found the broken arm.
Thanks.
Thanks for watching and I’m glad the video was helpful, John.
Previous Owner… the gift that keeps on giving…
@@CarbonsDIYGarage No kidding. Between my '79 CJ and the wife's '97 TJ... I'm finding alot of PO bad decisions/temp fixes
“Order of operations!” Awesome!
Your videos are some of the best! Keep making them! Great details, thorough explanations, no wasted jabbering.
Thanks for the feedback, encouragement, and support of the channel, Ben! Glad the videos are useful and helpful.
Thanks for the Video! Very helpful! My Jeeps been sitting since 2014, and the air never worked when I got it. I have replaced everything that was bad this week, only to find now the air doesn't come out the vents! Both of these arms are broken. SUMMIT parts on the way. Again thanks for taking the time to make this video!
@@onemeangreen Awesome! Glad the video helped. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@CarbonsDIYGarage And broke again.
@@onemeangreen ugh! Sorry to hear it.
Great video when I checked mine it had just popped out Thanks for posting this! all is good now
That’s awesome! Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching.
Thanks again for this video after the second time ordering my blend door lever i received the correct one now everything works keep the videos coming.
Excellent. Glad it worked out for you!
Ed, That was a very helpful video and I know I will be able to use that information. Since Winter is almost on us here in Ohio.
Just finishing up my frame repair on mine along with the installation of new rear control arms, brake hose and hard line since I have the gas tank still out. Already installed the new shocks,sway bar bushings and track bar. Thanks for the videos looking forward to your next video.
Glad the video can help, Carl. Man that’s a lot of rear end work! I’m sure removing the tank is in my future at some point but I know rust is going to make it a nightmare of a project. How did things go removing those upper bolts on the shocks?
@@CarbonsDIYGarage Well the gas tank was not a problem at all no rust issues there. Only had 1 upper shock bolt break, heat and PB blaster works wonders. Biggest problem was the track bar passenger side bolt had to cut it twice to get it out. In the spring or early summer will be replacing front chassis and suspension parts to finish.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage Ed, Is your Jeep from Texas, yours should not have much rust. My surprise is that how most every Jeep seems to be rode hard and put away wet. Owners don’t seem to believe in any maintenance must be a “playing in the dirt thing” cause most dirt bikes and atv’s suffer from the same affliction.
@@Manandmachine772 It’s lived all its life in Texas but seems like all previous owners have been as you described. All the work I’ve been doing really is just completing what should have been done periodically over the course of the past 205,000 miles/25 years. It was a Gulf Coast Beach buggy at some point so some of the surface rust and bolt rust, especially in the rear, is pretty rough. No through rust or frame rot though, so that’s good.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage oh yeah the salt water can be tough on them too. Be glad u don’t have the frame rot like us up here in the north. Mine has less the 160,000 miles and is 21 years old. I replaced brake calipers, pads, rotors and hoses on the front because some previous owner neglected them to wear thru the pad into the metal backing plate and into the rotor. But we will be all good here soon with making it back to tip top shape.
My new lever just broke right off at the end when it was operated
Hey any idea if the blend door for the floor can be lubricated. Mine closes but has a small gap so the heat or air always comes out the floor. Otherwise all blend door actuators look like they’re moving fine. Thanks buddy
Oh, good question! I don't honestly know since I haven't tried it. There's not really much (any?) access to the door and door hinge itself, at least not without taking the a/c box out and disassembling it. That said, I would think you could try squirting a little lubricant in there (say, maybe a silicone lubricant?) and maybe some will collect on rotating parts? Not a great answer, I realize... Let us know if you have any luck with it!
Thx for the fast reply. I def will
I sprayed with silicone along where it connects but didn’t make much of a difference. It closes 90% so I guess that’s good enuf
@@pujo28 Now, unfortunately, formally categorized as “it’s a feature.”
Sorry to hear the results.
I also have a 97 TJ and for the life of me, I can't get into that spot to fix the broken plastic part. Both of mine are broken - I drove a drywall screw into the holes and was able to temporarily get that "fixed" for a few years and now the plastic part just rotates (the screw couldn't hold it anymore).
How did you get your hands into that tight spot? what did you remove? The knee plastic part wasn't enough. did you remove the driver seat so you can laydown on that side looking up?
It’s definitely a tight squeeze! I removed that knee panel and used my camera through that area to help me see. Then I basically contorted myself (nearly upside down) to get in there. I kinda of laid down out the doorway (take the door off). Removing the seat might be a good option but mine was rusted in place. No secret sauce, though. It’s a tight squeeze. Sorry - good luck!
Wish you would’ve showed where in the engine bay this is located. Otherwise good video I’ll be working on mine as well
Or wait is this inside the jeep by right knee? Lol
@@alexpasillas3187 Yup! Sorry, Alex. I could have done a better job with that. It’s inside, under the dash, right up against the a/c box in the center of the Jeep.
This video shows a little better how I took the knee plate off to get some light and my camera in there.
th-cam.com/video/MZJLy6v_wWY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mVKbGtjL0NDr6z2a
Apologies for not having that clearer in the videos. Thanks for watching.
Can you please help me to find the actuator motor part please? I search only find it similar
The part numbers for the actuators, at least for the 1997, 1998, and 1999, are as follows:
Defrost actuator: 4864994
Panel actuator: 4864995
Floor actuator: 4864995 (same as Panel)
Recirculating (over on the passenger side): 4864996
Search for those part numbers. I'm seeing some on eBay, Summit Racing, etc.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage hi thank you but really I can figure out any of this, I already check two mechanics and is been a disaster. Is a simple toI wish I can do it must like you did. Are you ever in the Jacksonville Fl area? I will pay you if yo fix my jeep please? I am really serious, let me know if you consider this please. I am really need sim that knows what to do. My name is yadi byway.
@@yadialf9483 Well, I’m at least half the country away from you so I don’t think that’s a good option. You might look for a local Jeep Facebook group or two. I bet you can find a few folks that would be eager to help you. Good luck!
Thanks for the Video. Im having the same issue. Did you have to push hard to get the Blend door lever on? I got it to line up but can't get it to snap in place and I don't want to push to hard and break it.
If I remember right, I didn’t get that satisfying “click” when it was in place either. I think I just pushed on it a bit, tried to pull it out a little, when it moved I pushed a little harder, etc. At some point it wouldn’t come out when I pulled so I knew it was in place. It’s been working great ever since so I guess my method worked and it’s in there…
Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@CarbonsDIYGarage I appreciate it. I'll give it another go tomorrow.
@@prospectoverlanding Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
I’m also assuming you have the correct part number for the location you’re trying to install it.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage yes right part. Still had a piece broken in there. Got it out and went in with no issues.
My 02 doesn’t look like yours. What year is this Tj?
It’s a 1997.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage 1997 is a 1 year only model.
@@chrisleggett685 Unique in its own “special” way.
My 02 is not like the one in this video. Did you ever find a resource for showing how to replace yours?
What’s the part number for that
Hey, Brandon, thanks for watching! Part number and link to it on Amazon are in the video description.
Not even close to what my TJ looks like so not sure what year you are dealing with. I have an 06 and only has one actuator even visible.
Mine’s a ‘97. My video should work for ‘97 - ‘99 and then the model designs started charging. I don’t have a parts list or service manual for an ‘06 but it wouldn’t surprise me that it’s quite a bit different, at least in layout.