Timestamps: 00:00 Trollolo 00:18 The quest for better sound 00:36 Printing for hours and hours 01:23 Failed attempts 01:51 Finding a better speaker driver 02:04 Unboxing Dayton full range drivers 02:45 Redesigning in Fusion 03:12 No restrictions 03:52 intro to sound samples 04:04 Jazz quartet with a wonderful Steinway grand piano, switching speakers. 06:06 Female vocalist, my home recording 07:03 Conclusions and outro.
If you havent stumbled across the Hexibase youtube channel, i could highly reccodmend. He's a sound engineer and has sooo many awesome 3d printable designs. If nothing else will surely inspire some ideas!
You could print this speaker standing at 45 degrees to the bed, then you wouldn't need any supports at all because all the angles are at 45 degrees to the bed and there are no big overhangs.
Thanks for watching! Could be worth a try. Keep in mind that there is a port inside the vented version and a "brace" in the closed version. And there is a large opening for the backplate and speaker driver.
I had to try this in the slicer :-) It did suggest some supports even for 45 degrees orientation. Print time 18:46 (3 mins longer then my print). 716 grams of filament vs 761 in my print. Interesting result and not what I expected.
@@v4projects if the port is perpendicular to the front face, then it is also at 45 degrees. But I would also modify the model a little, and give it a 45degree face at the bottom instead of a sharp-ish corner. Then you don't need to support the structure, as it has a "leg".
@delscoville I had an Ford Escort. Two Kenwood speakers mounted in the rear shelf. First night the car was parked outside, someone broke the window and stole the Kenwoods. Never had a Fiesta, thanks for fact checking :-) i would like to add that even back then, most people preferred Kenwood or Clarion speakers, not Roadstar.
I'd recommend you look for drivers with a smooth transition from the cone and all the way to your 3d printed box. Otherwise you get huge diffraction peaks/dipps in the frequency. Flushmounting is essential and large 3cm radius+ rounded corners on front baffle will also give way smoother vocals. Drivers with inverted rubber will often sound better because of the no rubber bulge creating diffraction effects. I would love to see some Markaudio drivers in these boxes since they are well made and theres soundclips comparing a ton of full range on youtube showing the general sound one can expect from all these drivers.
I am currently printing some boxes for the Markaudio drivers. It’s a scaled up version. (About 20% larger and sealed, orherwise identical shape and driver placement
If you watched part 2 you could see me try out micro cement/Jesmonite. It didn’t improve the sound. The speaker driver was too bad and the limiting factor. I’ll compare one box with cement and one without but with the same Dayton driver in my next video. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for asking! I will publish the STLs as soon as I have completed the subwoofer and done some more listening tests of that combo. (currently printing two sizes of subwoofers). I think most people would prefer to use a compact sub with these speakers. This will be a low cost build, but it sure uses some filament! 760 grams for each speaker. 580 grams for the small sub and about 1,3 kg for the bigger subwoofer.
I think I have seen some of his stuff. With 4,5 mill+ subscribers he seem to have a slightly higher budget than me :-) Interestingly enough he had a similar idea when it comes to improving the 3D printed enclosures th-cam.com/video/XEspOD1NHr0/w-d-xo.html Impressive project. I think Jesmonite is a better solution for filling the speakers.
@@v4projects That is the one! I am building this and not sure if I will finish it, but your videos are teaching me about Jesmonite and motivate me to push to the end. I am trying to learn about the electronics aspects of diy speakers and I do not see many videos that overview electronic components, and or discusses how to select them.
@v4projects it also depends of damping. Polyester damping is for sealed box, Pyramid damping is for reflex. Glue damping only on 5 sides except for the front side where you install the speaker. Second tip: reflex is always too long for the box so, if you will play your speaker at home, consider max 2 watt. If not you will lose your hearing. At max 2 watt you Will have a very short reflex that can fit in every box ;)
Timestamps:
00:00 Trollolo
00:18 The quest for better sound
00:36 Printing for hours and hours
01:23 Failed attempts
01:51 Finding a better speaker driver
02:04 Unboxing Dayton full range drivers
02:45 Redesigning in Fusion
03:12 No restrictions
03:52 intro to sound samples
04:04 Jazz quartet with a wonderful Steinway grand piano, switching speakers.
06:06 Female vocalist, my home recording
07:03 Conclusions and outro.
If you havent stumbled across the Hexibase youtube channel, i could highly reccodmend. He's a sound engineer and has sooo many awesome 3d printable designs. If nothing else will surely inspire some ideas!
Thank you for the recommendation. It was really helpful.
I'm using the dayton PS95-8 in a build right now, its amazing how much more high end detail they provide compared to the coaxial!
You could print this speaker standing at 45 degrees to the bed, then you wouldn't need any supports at all because all the angles are at 45 degrees to the bed and there are no big overhangs.
Thanks for watching! Could be worth a try. Keep in mind that there is a port inside the vented version and a "brace" in the closed version. And there is a large opening for the backplate and speaker driver.
I had to try this in the slicer :-) It did suggest some supports even for 45 degrees orientation. Print time 18:46 (3 mins longer then my print). 716 grams of filament vs 761 in my print. Interesting result and not what I expected.
@@v4projects if the port is perpendicular to the front face, then it is also at 45 degrees.
But I would also modify the model a little, and give it a 45degree face at the bottom instead of a sharp-ish corner. Then you don't need to support the structure, as it has a "leg".
My 1980 Ford Fiesta didn't have speakers in the doors, they were in the back seat area, and actually sounded quite good.
@delscoville I had an Ford Escort. Two Kenwood speakers mounted in the rear shelf. First night the car was parked outside, someone broke the window and stole the Kenwoods. Never had a Fiesta, thanks for fact checking :-) i would like to add that even back then, most people preferred Kenwood or Clarion speakers, not Roadstar.
I'd recommend you look for drivers with a smooth transition from the cone and all the way to your 3d printed box. Otherwise you get huge diffraction peaks/dipps in the frequency. Flushmounting is essential and large 3cm radius+ rounded corners on front baffle will also give way smoother vocals. Drivers with inverted rubber will often sound better because of the no rubber bulge creating diffraction effects. I would love to see some Markaudio drivers in these boxes since they are well made and theres soundclips comparing a ton of full range on youtube showing the general sound one can expect from all these drivers.
I am currently printing some boxes for the Markaudio drivers. It’s a scaled up version. (About 20% larger and sealed, orherwise identical shape and driver placement
awesome
I wish more companies used colorful surrounds instead of the typical dull black ones
Try printing with 100% infill. For me it sounds way better. Also filaments with carbon fibres gives less resonances and more natural sound.
If you watched part 2 you could see me try out micro cement/Jesmonite. It didn’t improve the sound. The speaker driver was too bad and the limiting factor. I’ll compare one box with cement and one without but with the same Dayton driver in my next video. Thanks for watching!
Great project! Do you have the STL shared somewhere?
Thanks for asking! I will publish the STLs as soon as I have completed the subwoofer and done some more listening tests of that combo. (currently printing two sizes of subwoofers). I think most people would prefer to use a compact sub with these speakers. This will be a low cost build, but it sure uses some filament! 760 grams for each speaker. 580 grams for the small sub and about 1,3 kg for the bigger subwoofer.
Good shit
Look up DIY perks, he designed a powered hifi setup that I would love to see someone make
I think I have seen some of his stuff. With 4,5 mill+ subscribers he seem to have a slightly higher budget than me :-) Interestingly enough he had a similar idea when it comes to improving the 3D printed enclosures th-cam.com/video/XEspOD1NHr0/w-d-xo.html Impressive project. I think Jesmonite is a better solution for filling the speakers.
@@v4projects That is the one! I am building this and not sure if I will finish it, but your videos are teaching me about Jesmonite and motivate me to push to the end. I am trying to learn about the electronics aspects of diy speakers and I do not see many videos that overview electronic components, and or discusses how to select them.
The Dayton full-range drivers sound much better than the road star in terms of details and crispness but it's a little too bright for my tastes.
I agree, it needs some correction. Too bright.
You need 100% infill to avoid the vibration of the box
@@frajr1986 i have filled some of these boxes with micro cement. Not much difference to be honest. And plastic will vibrate regardless of infill.
@v4projects it also depends of damping. Polyester damping is for sealed box, Pyramid damping is for reflex. Glue damping only on 5 sides except for the front side where you install the speaker.
Second tip: reflex is always too long for the box so, if you will play your speaker at home, consider max 2 watt. If not you will lose your hearing. At max 2 watt you Will have a very short reflex that can fit in every box ;)