Good stuff, my Dad was a metal man, mainly sheet metal, for 50+ years and he told me you could sharpen an old dull file with acid but I never tried it. I'm going to give it a try. Thanks for the tip!!!! As usual, the older I get the smarter my dad was.
Always, always be extra careful and use the PPE. Outdoor is best as he showed. One thing not mentioned is muriatic acid when left in an open container in your shop will rust your tools. Yes, just an open container. Good demo, thank you.
I made the mistake of using muriatic inside of my shop instead of outside like you. The fumes tarnished some of my nicer tools that were laying on the worktable and they were, I thought, safely distanced away by a few feet. A couple of excellent bench planes, a starrett square with a brand new ruler along with few other less precious tools got a smoky blackish tarnish to them. Just a cautionary tale, it's not just splashing or inhaling that stuff you have to worry about. Thanks for the video.
Instead of waiting for the file to dry, you can spray WD-40 on a damp file to drive off any water from the surface. The "WD" stands for "Water Displacement."
Brandon, hello from top of the hill (Smithville ) as for the handling of acid be it muriatic, sulfuric, whatever , I'm a retired master mason ( brick layer and laborer ) we used muriatic on EVERY house that we ever bricked in approx. 40 years worth so I guess you could say I know a little about this stuff, DANGEROUS ! ! is an under statement first off tall slim containers tip over easly using an appropriate apron and rubber boots in case of spills would be a good idea , and keep a water hose close at hand in case of such a mishap , and trust me if you use it long enough something WILL happen sooner or later , as for that troll being so negative thumbs down to him, appreciate the post be safe out there , keep on the sunny side !.
I've tried this a few times based on articles in old Model Engineering magazines. Pretty casual, tried different casual mixes of phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid and water, which all happened to be handy. Put them in a big glass baking tray, and tried to do some agitation. Would take one out from time to time, rinse it off and see if it seemed sharper. I think it does work! The files turned a dark color, and definitely seemed more cutting. I think there's a lot of work to do here, but in my experience it seemed to work the first time. I have read about electrochemical sharpening which was supposed to really work on an industrial scale, have not tried. This is pretty interesting stuff if you have hundreds of files, and they are all slowly getting dull, and you're not sure if you can replace them, except by luck at a flea market. They're expensive new, when you DO find a good one!
I love it when a plan comes together. :-)Your process is good. The only change I would make is to use sulfuric, citric, or acetic acid instead of muratic. Muratic is a common name for hydrochloric acid. Hydrochloric can cause hydrogen embrittlement in high carbon steel, like files. When we painted armor plate at work we couldn't use the pre etch primer because it had hydrochloric acid in the mix. The hydrogen atoms infiltrate the iron and carbon matrix and cause microfractures. Not something you want in armor plate or files. :-)
+Scott Stroh Perhaps you are performing a different method than I'm aware of. There is a scum that forms on top of the acid solution. In the process I use it is typically white with a bit of brown flecks in it from the rust flaking off of a particularly rusty part. Exposing the file to water will indeed expose it to hydrogen. The quantity of free hydrogen is my concern. There is a correlation between concentration and embrittlement. Reducing the source of the reaction will reduce but not eliminate embrittlement. Minor effects fade over time as the hydrogen dissipates. www.fastenal.com/en/71/embrittlement
Aside from embrittlement, HCl leaves chloride salts embedded in the steel and causes it to rust over with red rust. (This might be partly related to the microcracking of the surface). So unless you want your files to turn orange brown within days and to corrode away faster than necessary, HCl is definitely the worst acid to use for this. White vinegar (acetic) works great just the way it comes from the grocery store, but phosphoric acid is the classical acid of choice. I believe it leaves the most protective patina. It is the acid used in "naval jelly," which is a traditional stuff for removing rust from steel and cast iron; and the name makes me imagine that naval jelly and/or phosphoric acid is or was stocked in 55 gallon drums on warships.
Great video and good information. It's always good to see old tools remaining in service rather than becoming scrap or landfill. One idea for you to consider though: instead of using muriatic acid which is quite hazardous and, as someone below pointed out, will cause anything metallic in the vicinity to begin to rust, give oxalic acid a go. Oxalic acid comes in both liquid and powder forms and, in my experience I've found it's mild enough that you can even put your hands in the solution to move files or other items around without causing harm (although you must wash them properly immediately after removal). Unlike Muriatic acid, Oxalic acid will not cause vapours that create rust on other metal surfaces in the surrounding area to rust tarnish or corrode. I do the same process as you do, only using oxalic acid instead of muriatic, the only difference being the length of time my files need to remain immersed which can be anywhere from a couple of hours to overnight, depending on their original state and how lazy I am about getting them out of their bath. Best of luck and thanks for taking the time to make and post this video!
I'm not sure about "sharpening" but I clean mine with a good long soak in vinegar. it takes all the build up out of the teeth and they cut much better. I'll have to give this a try thanks for sharing.
Vinegar is an acid. Just have to soak it a lot longer. Mustard,coffee,Ferric chloride with all work. White vinegar n peroxide make a nasty but good acid for etching. Sulfuric acid will work,its usually in GOOD drain cleaner. Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid diluted. Just make sure ur wearing sum safety stuff when working with it. Make sure all u people look up whatever chemicals ur mixing. U can make some lethal stuff,no bueno.
Yeah ya done good ,i used hydrochloric acud strait and i dont dilute at all ,i use bi carb to nutralise as well,i also sharpen my fishing hooks the same way as you up your catch hugely with ultra sharp hooks ,i like your vids ,just watched demo ranch and got link to your channel ,love the blacksmithing ,loved that dragon skin you made ,i seen a plate made with some type of glass or ceramic literally cooked onto the surface of this super hard steel and that took a fifty cal bullet and it didnt get thru until armer piercing 50 cal was used ,actually i think the stuff melted to the front of the steel was called polly cristalise something ,dam i cant remember ,but it was tougher than a goats forehead that is certain.oknthanks for your time and channel.
Very good video. I have worked on cars and around welders all my life and never saw anything like this. I have many many old files in three tool boxes that I will be sharpening like you did. Thanks for showing an old dog new tricks.
Thank you for video. Mount table to the floor or wall - file force will go for cutting, instead of moving table. Also work is more predictable. I've read that external hand pressures first, than equal force on both hands in the middle and higher pressure for closer hand at movement end.
Use distilled water, or it will not mix easily, I assume he had a “swirling” effect because that was tap water which has all kinds of minerals. Well water would have minerals also but neither would have enough to effect the outcome of this reaction
Muriatic acid is pretty mild. Not sure if they still sell it, but remember the eye drops called Murine? Muriatic acid was used in the eye drops to 'get the red out'. Muriatic acid is often used to etch concrete in preparation for painting. Put it in a pump canister and spray in on, scrub it off with a mop. Muriatic acid will still eat your clothes if you spill, but I don't think a hazmat suit is really required to handle it. Sulfuric acid is a bit nastier. Might chew on your skin a bit if you spill it on your clothes. Might be better for novices to stick with muriatic acid vs. sulfuric acid. If a person is really slow grasping simple things, I heard that even vinegar works, though might take awhile longer.
I have done a triangular file, but not a round chainsaw file. As long as none of the cutting teeth are touching it should sharpen it fine, I am not sure if it would change the size of the file in relation to the teeth on the saw however. Hmmm now I have to try it! I will keep you posted Lewis.
i use one more step. i wire wheeled my files after neutralizing with a BRASS wire wheel. you are not supposed to use a steel wire brush because it will dull the file somewhat. i then put wd40 on and i am done.
i just learned about that myself. they say not to use a steel file card. did you know to coat your files with chalk before using them to keep the filings from lodging in the teeth?
Oh yea the chalk thing is great! I am pretty sure a file card is ok but not a standard wire brush, a file card has a lower carbon content. I will admit this is hear say!
Technically u should be wearing some kind of breathing thing. The fumes are nasty and dont do it ur shop. The fumes make everything metal start to rust. Just saying
The only suitably sized vessel I had was a milk bottle made of glass, much like yours. Acid will not corrode glass BUT I dropped a very small file (6" long, triangular) in the jar full of water and acid and BINGO, when the little file hit the bottom it took out a 1" chunk of thick glass and the solution was GONE and I was in a panic trying to clean things up in a hurry. I abandoned the procedure but it brings up a point ... did the acid solution affect the glass so that it broke more easily...or was the glass already affected by something else before or ... did that little file sinking down through a "milk bottle" full of solution have enough heft to cause the glass to break. I don't know the answer but milk bottles are tough jars with thick bottoms. Be safe, use a "plastic" container, the acid will affect some plastics so do your research ahead of time.
Hi, a question: can this procedure, which is illustrated in this video, also work for the file that some Victorinox multipurpose files have? Otherwise that kind of files and (especially) the metal saw they have incorporated, how can they be regenerated? Thank you.
Naw your don't need to clean them, and old battery acid is free. Use a plastic tray easier to use, find silverware trays at garage sales . Outside ? just rinse with garden hose, don't need baking soda.
I know I'm a few years late but please never hit a file with a hammer again unless you want to take your eye out or worse when it explodes and send shrapnel flying at you. If you want to put a handle on a file you drop the file handle side down onto concrete or an anvil or a vice etc. Same as a hammer same as an axe head etc.
You didn't show us a before and after of how bad the file cuts. And I do not believe the file is sharper, cleaner yes, rust free yes, but not sharper. To the best of my knowledge etching will attack edges and corners first, so I don't think etching will produce sharp teeth on a file again.
It is not my obligation to fix your sloppy testing methodology. You are the on making a claim here, so you are the one who has to provide compelling evidence for your claim. But I do think it would be fairly easy to prove you wrong, for example by looking at the teeth through a microscope, or putting a file in brake cleaner and show that you get the same subjective improvement. And if I had the time and energy I would love to make a video about it.
Shoot yea Jack, get fired up! When you shoot this epic response video it will change your life! You are probably right I bet it would be easy. Not only could you prove me wrong, a story that could only impress your friends, you would also have some content on your channel! Man if you had some content people wouldn't mistake you for a troll! Let me know when you get the vid up bro!
Jack White acid sharpening is an old and common method of restoring undamaged files. There rather alot of videos showing it with other acids, heck even vinegar.
My steel files has little rust not a lot.I have a hardware shop and i am selling the steel files. Which social application you use? I don't want to post the comments here that"s why i am asking your social app.
This technique is quite literally termed "acid sharpening." Files are cleaned prior to treatment. Acid etches the teeth and they regain some of their sharpness, though it can make them brittle. Definitely extends use life a bit, sometimes quite a bit.
Let me break it to you - you cannot sharpen a dull file. The teeth that are broke or dull are done. No acid in the world will restore the sharpness of those destroyed teeth. Clean your file often with file card or metal bristle brush and it’ll last you longer. But when it’s gone it’s gone.
I know its etching, I use vinegar for removing rust all the time, its the same deal and all its doing is removing everything down to the raw metal, its cleaning not sharpening, you cant sharpen knives with acid, why would files be any different?I don't doubt it makes most files work better to some degree
While not trying to continue this I will say this, files and knives have different types of cutting area, they are also at a different hardness, maybe this is why it works. I don't care how it works, I am a blacksmith and work with steel all day damn near every day. I can tell you that this process has taken files that I got new and used for years cleaning with file cards and vineger, eventually I still wore them out, this process brings em back. Give it a shot, you may be impressed, as someone who uses files everyday I was. By the way I clicked on your channel normally the folks bitching have no content, turns out I have seen some of your earlier videos I like the off grid stuff. Not really a Vlog fan though. So give it a shot, or not, you may think it doesn't work but I know it does. Good luck and I look forward to a response video, I will watch it.
you just proved my point you dont know how it works, if you cant explain it to yourself you cant explain it to me, myself I understand totally whats going on, the acid is cleaning off everything back to the original base metal, its NOT sharpening wore down rounded off teeth, this is basic common sense to me, i will try it and video document mythbusting this uninformed claim though there are already videos proving my point
No it sharpens them. My uncle told me about an old man who went to the gunsmith shops and for a few dollars would sharpen their files. These men knew the difference between a dull file and a dirty file.
Mr. Schuman, what is essentially happening is the removal of tiny amounts of metal from the file itself. The acid etching process is indeed sharpening the file, but is not a cure all. It is best done when a file is starting to become dull. A fully dull file will be nearly impossible to bring back to sharpness, even with acid.
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Good stuff, my Dad was a metal man, mainly sheet metal, for 50+ years and he told me you could sharpen an old dull file with acid but I never tried it. I'm going to give it a try. Thanks for the tip!!!! As usual, the older I get the smarter my dad was.
Always, always be extra careful and use the PPE. Outdoor is best as he showed. One thing not mentioned is muriatic acid when left in an open container in your shop will rust your tools. Yes, just an open container. Good demo, thank you.
I made the mistake of using muriatic inside of my shop instead of outside like you. The fumes tarnished some of my nicer tools that were laying on the worktable and they were, I thought, safely distanced away by a few feet. A couple of excellent bench planes, a starrett square with a brand new ruler along with few other less precious tools got a smoky blackish tarnish to them. Just a cautionary tale, it's not just splashing or inhaling that stuff you have to worry about. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for this information!
Instead of waiting for the file to dry, you can spray WD-40 on a damp file to drive off any water from the surface. The "WD" stands for "Water Displacement."
I will give it a shot next time!
Gary Cooper how to
Brandon, hello from top of the hill (Smithville ) as for the handling of acid be it muriatic, sulfuric, whatever , I'm a retired master mason ( brick layer and laborer ) we used muriatic on EVERY house that we ever bricked in approx. 40 years worth so I guess you could say I know a little about this stuff, DANGEROUS ! ! is an under statement first off tall slim containers tip over easly using an appropriate apron and rubber boots in case of spills would be a good idea , and keep a water hose close at hand in case of such a mishap , and trust me if you use it long enough something WILL happen sooner or later , as for that troll being so negative thumbs down to him, appreciate the post be safe out there , keep on the sunny side !.
I've tried this a few times based on articles in old Model Engineering magazines. Pretty casual, tried different casual mixes of phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid and water, which all happened to be handy. Put them in a big glass baking tray, and tried to do some agitation. Would take one out from time to time, rinse it off and see if it seemed sharper. I think it does work! The files turned a dark color, and definitely seemed more cutting. I think there's a lot of work to do here, but in my experience it seemed to work the first time. I have read about electrochemical sharpening which was supposed to really work on an industrial scale, have not tried. This is pretty interesting stuff if you have hundreds of files, and they are all slowly getting dull, and you're not sure if you can replace them, except by luck at a flea market. They're expensive new, when you DO find a good one!
I love it when a plan comes together. :-)Your process is good. The only change I would make is to use sulfuric, citric, or acetic acid instead of muratic. Muratic is a common name for hydrochloric acid. Hydrochloric can cause hydrogen embrittlement in high carbon steel, like files. When we painted armor plate at work we couldn't use the pre etch primer because it had hydrochloric acid in the mix. The hydrogen atoms infiltrate the iron and carbon matrix and cause microfractures. Not something you want in armor plate or files. :-)
+Scott Stroh Perhaps you are performing a different method than I'm aware of. There is a scum that forms on top of the acid solution. In the process I use it is typically white with a bit of brown flecks in it from the rust flaking off of a particularly rusty part. Exposing the file to water will indeed expose it to hydrogen. The quantity of free hydrogen is my concern.
There is a correlation between concentration and embrittlement. Reducing the source of the reaction will reduce but not eliminate embrittlement. Minor effects fade over time as the hydrogen dissipates. www.fastenal.com/en/71/embrittlement
Aside from embrittlement, HCl leaves chloride salts embedded in the steel and causes it to rust over with red rust. (This might be partly related to the microcracking of the surface). So unless you want your files to turn orange brown within days and to corrode away faster than necessary, HCl is definitely the worst acid to use for this. White vinegar (acetic) works great just the way it comes from the grocery store, but phosphoric acid is the classical acid of choice. I believe it leaves the most protective patina. It is the acid used in "naval jelly," which is a traditional stuff for removing rust from steel and cast iron; and the name makes me imagine that naval jelly and/or phosphoric acid is or was stocked in 55 gallon drums on warships.
Great video and good information. It's always good to see old tools remaining in service rather than becoming scrap or landfill. One idea for you to consider though: instead of using muriatic acid which is quite hazardous and, as someone below pointed out, will cause anything metallic in the vicinity to begin to rust, give oxalic acid a go.
Oxalic acid comes in both liquid and powder forms and, in my experience I've found it's mild enough that you can even put your hands in the solution to move files or other items around without causing harm (although you must wash them properly immediately after removal).
Unlike Muriatic acid, Oxalic acid will not cause vapours that create rust on other metal surfaces in the surrounding area to rust tarnish or corrode.
I do the same process as you do, only using oxalic acid instead of muriatic, the only difference being the length of time my files need to remain immersed which can be anywhere from a couple of hours to overnight, depending on their original state and how lazy I am about getting them out of their bath. Best of luck and thanks for taking the time to make and post this video!
I'm not sure about "sharpening" but I clean mine with a good long soak in vinegar. it takes all the build up out of the teeth and they cut much better. I'll have to give this a try thanks for sharing.
Vinegar is an acid. Just have to soak it a lot longer. Mustard,coffee,Ferric chloride with all work. White vinegar n peroxide make a nasty but good acid for etching. Sulfuric acid will work,its usually in GOOD drain cleaner. Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid diluted. Just make sure ur wearing sum safety stuff when working with it. Make sure all u people look up whatever chemicals ur mixing. U can make some lethal stuff,no bueno.
Yeah ya done good ,i used hydrochloric acud strait and i dont dilute at all ,i use bi carb to nutralise as well,i also sharpen my fishing hooks the same way as you up your catch hugely with ultra sharp hooks ,i like your vids ,just watched demo ranch and got link to your channel ,love the blacksmithing ,loved that dragon skin you made ,i seen a plate made with some type of glass or ceramic literally cooked onto the surface of this super hard steel and that took a fifty cal bullet and it didnt get thru until armer piercing 50 cal was used ,actually i think the stuff melted to the front of the steel was called polly cristalise something ,dam i cant remember ,but it was tougher than a goats forehead that is certain.oknthanks for your time and channel.
I have some used transmission fluid that works great in place of the WD-40. Great Video! Thanks.
Very good video. I have worked on cars and around welders all my life and never saw anything like this. I have many many old files in three tool boxes that I will be sharpening like you did. Thanks for showing an old dog new tricks.
Thank you for video.
Mount table to the floor or wall - file force will go for cutting, instead of moving table. Also work is more predictable. I've read that external hand pressures first, than equal force on both hands in the middle and higher pressure for closer hand at movement end.
Thank you man I got files back in shape saved a chunk not having to replace em . Thanks a lot great vid...!👍
Also, never cap the container with the file in it. The bubbles are Hydrogen gas which will build up pressure. Also Hydrogen is extremely flammable.
Looks good to me. Gonna try it. Thanks.
Let us know how it goes!
Good video. The table moving like a hula girls hips would drive me nuts. Seriously I've used sulfuric acid(drain cleaner) with good results also.
Yep I had just rearranged the shop, she is stable now!
Voo Doo Tennessee
Jim Zivny that shaky table gotta be fixed especially if dude has a vice in it
Great video, you seem like a wholesome guy. Keep it up !
Thank you! Very good info! I was m.j ready to throw out old files and buy new ones
Get a file card. If that doesn't work get a new file, There not that expensive.
I use vinegar, it works great a 24 or 48 hour soak brings them up like new
That swirly water is called turbidity
I am now looking for reasons to use this word, it's great thank you!
Great demo, thanks:)
Glad you liked it!
My neighbors father machined the first jet engine in the US. He told me you can sharpen files about 3 times before the teeth are gone.
Good job did not know that you could not add water to the acid I would have made that mistake
Great, thanks, will have a go, Tony , Australia.
Sulfuric acid works well too, drain cleaner has sulfuric acid, always add acid to water or you’ll see a nasty reaction
sulfuric acid 10% works the best. Battery acid will work too. 6 hours will make pretty dull files ok.
Damn I did mine in straight muratic acid. Still sitting out in the carport now.
Use distilled water, or it will not mix easily, I assume he had a “swirling” effect because that was tap water which has all kinds of minerals. Well water would have minerals also but neither would have enough to effect the outcome of this reaction
Muriatic acid is pretty mild. Not sure if they still sell it, but remember the eye drops called Murine? Muriatic acid was used in the eye drops to 'get the red out'. Muriatic acid is often used to etch concrete in preparation for painting. Put it in a pump canister and spray in on, scrub it off with a mop. Muriatic acid will still eat your clothes if you spill, but I don't think a hazmat suit is really required to handle it.
Sulfuric acid is a bit nastier. Might chew on your skin a bit if you spill it on your clothes. Might be better for novices to stick with muriatic acid vs. sulfuric acid. If a person is really slow grasping simple things, I heard that even vinegar works, though might take awhile longer.
Nice stirin stick 😜
Have you tried a saw file.thank you for your time
I have done a triangular file, but not a round chainsaw file. As long as none of the cutting teeth are touching it should sharpen it fine, I am not sure if it would change the size of the file in relation to the teeth on the saw however. Hmmm now I have to try it! I will keep you posted Lewis.
i use one more step. i wire wheeled my files after neutralizing with a BRASS wire wheel. you are not supposed to use a steel wire brush because it will dull the file somewhat. i then put wd40 on and i am done.
I never thought about using a brass wheel! Good stuff sir.
i just learned about that myself. they say not to use a steel file card. did you know to coat your files with chalk before using them to keep the filings from lodging in the teeth?
Oh yea the chalk thing is great! I am pretty sure a file card is ok but not a standard wire brush, a file card has a lower carbon content. I will admit this is hear say!
Totally agree on the brass brush and chalk method. The chalk really helps when filing aluminum, or filing an edge onto a shovel.
When using a file card, you brush same direction of the cut on the file. 2 cuts, 2 directions! File card one direction, then the other. Lightly!
How about testing the file before cleaning/sharping. May have filed better before acid. :-)
Can I use the acid solution in a plastic container instead of glass?
Work on a rasp too?
Technically u should be wearing some kind of breathing thing. The fumes are nasty and dont do it ur shop. The fumes make everything metal start to rust. Just saying
All good,! 👏🏻👏🏻👍🇬🇧
The only suitably sized vessel I had was a milk bottle made of glass, much like yours. Acid will not corrode glass BUT I dropped a very small file (6" long, triangular) in the jar full of water and acid and BINGO, when the little file hit the bottom it took out a 1" chunk of thick glass and the solution was GONE and I was in a panic trying to clean things up in a hurry. I abandoned the procedure but it brings up a point ... did the acid solution affect the glass so that it broke more easily...or was the glass already affected by something else before or ... did that little file sinking down through a "milk bottle" full of solution have enough heft to cause the glass to break. I don't know the answer but milk bottles are tough jars with thick bottoms. Be safe, use a "plastic" container, the acid will affect some plastics so do your research ahead of time.
No, dropping the file on the glass affected the glass so it broke.
Can you use a small bristle brush with a dremel?
The title should read Cleaning a file using acid.
Hi, a question: can this procedure, which is illustrated in this video, also work for the file that some Victorinox multipurpose files have? Otherwise that kind of files and (especially) the metal saw they have incorporated, how can they be regenerated? Thank you.
I tried both. cirtic acid works best
What is the ratio Muriatic Acid to H2O?
Muriatic Acid also known as Hydrochloric acid . Generally 36% HCL in H2O is about a strong as you can normally get. Use google for more info.
Naw your don't need to clean them, and old battery acid is free. Use a plastic tray easier to use, find silverware trays at garage sales . Outside ? just rinse with garden hose, don't need baking soda.
Clean water will not neutralize acid. You need soda.
I only have one question. How do you dispose of the water/acid solution?
I mix in baking soda and dump it in my gravel drive way.
@@VooDooTennessee ok thank you
I know I'm a few years late but please never hit a file with a hammer again unless you want to take your eye out or worse when it explodes and send shrapnel flying at you. If you want to put a handle on a file you drop the file handle side down onto concrete or an anvil or a vice etc. Same as a hammer same as an axe head etc.
Does this work with woodworking rasps?
I don't see why it wouldn't, just make sure you have all the wood off by cleaning with a file card first.
No!!!!! To sharpen a wood rasp use a loose buffing wheel and some compound
How can I post the foto in this comment box?
which kind of acid should i use to clean my rusted steel files?
Watch the video.
What kind of acid should I use to clean my file cabinet?
You didn't show us a before and after of how bad the file cuts. And I do not believe the file is sharper, cleaner yes, rust free yes, but not sharper. To the best of my knowledge etching will attack edges and corners first, so I don't think etching will produce sharp teeth on a file again.
Thanks for your input Jack, I look forward to your video with all of these points!
It is not my obligation to fix your sloppy testing methodology. You are the on making a claim here, so you are the one who has to provide compelling evidence for your claim.
But I do think it would be fairly easy to prove you wrong, for example by looking at the teeth through a microscope, or putting a file in brake cleaner and show that you get the same subjective improvement. And if I had the time and energy I would love to make a video about it.
Shoot yea Jack, get fired up! When you shoot this epic response video it will change your life! You are probably right I bet it would be easy. Not only could you prove me wrong, a story that could only impress your friends, you would also have some content on your channel! Man if you had some content people wouldn't mistake you for a troll! Let me know when you get the vid up bro!
Jackum he smelleth of the farts, yep, sniffs them. Sure thing.
Jack White acid sharpening is an old and common method of restoring undamaged files. There rather alot of videos showing it with other acids, heck even vinegar.
My steel files has little rust not a lot.I have a hardware shop and i am selling the steel files.
Which social application you use?
I don't want to post the comments here that"s why i am asking your social app.
I want to show my steel files problem photo .Please give me your gmail.
Hehehe you can post pics in the comments here.
That ain't nuthin! Lemme see you make acid Now! I liked your video. But we need to see how you make acid.
Nope. Just cleaning it.
You should make a video about that! But you won't.
This technique is quite literally termed "acid sharpening." Files are cleaned prior to treatment. Acid etches the teeth and they regain some of their sharpness, though it can make them brittle. Definitely extends use life a bit, sometimes quite a bit.
Let me break it to you - you cannot sharpen a dull file. The teeth that are broke or dull are done. No acid in the world will restore the sharpness of those destroyed teeth. Clean your file often with file card or metal bristle brush and it’ll last you longer. But when it’s gone it’s gone.
this is cleaning not sharpening, acid doesnt make things magically sharp again if they are dull
It's not magic it's etching, give it a shot.
I know its etching, I use vinegar for removing rust all the time, its the same deal and all its doing is removing everything down to the raw metal, its cleaning not sharpening, you cant sharpen knives with acid, why would files be any different?I don't doubt it makes most files work better to some degree
While not trying to continue this I will say this, files and knives have different types of cutting area, they are also at a different hardness, maybe this is why it works. I don't care how it works, I am a blacksmith and work with steel all day damn near every day. I can tell you that this process has taken files that I got new and used for years cleaning with file cards and vineger, eventually I still wore them out, this process brings em back. Give it a shot, you may be impressed, as someone who uses files everyday I was. By the way I clicked on your channel normally the folks bitching have no content, turns out I have seen some of your earlier videos I like the off grid stuff. Not really a Vlog fan though. So give it a shot, or not, you may think it doesn't work but I know it does. Good luck and I look forward to a response video, I will watch it.
you just proved my point you dont know how it works, if you cant explain it to yourself you cant explain it to me, myself I understand totally whats going on, the acid is cleaning off everything back to the original base metal, its NOT sharpening wore down rounded off teeth, this is basic common sense to me, i will try it and video document mythbusting this uninformed claim though there are already videos proving my point
What ever it takes to keep you happy.
Cleaning, not sharpening.
No it sharpens them. My uncle told me about an old man who went to the gunsmith shops and for a few dollars would sharpen their files. These men knew the difference between a dull file and a dirty file.
Mr. Schuman, what is essentially happening is the removal of tiny amounts of metal from the file itself. The acid etching process is indeed sharpening the file, but is not a cure all. It is best done when a file is starting to become dull. A fully dull file will be nearly impossible to bring back to sharpness, even with acid.