Quadcopter Hot Motor | REAL WORLD TROUBLESHOOT
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2017
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The number one cause of a hot motor on a quadcopter is that one of the motor screws is too long and it is contacting the motor windings. I'll show you how to troubleshoot this scenario.
The multimeter that I use is: amzn.to/2o8LdTO
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JB thank you for what you do! You posted this 2 years ago and it is still saving developing pilots days and days of head scratching. Got me back in the air again, keep up the great work!
Just earned a sub. This saved my bacon 5 years later.. Never would have thought about checking the screws for current but low and behold, the screw for the motor was touching the coils and after i found it and replaced with shorter one.. works like a charm..
"Walnut tree branch hit my power line"
We all know you hit it with a quad. :)
Nah, he hit the walnut tree branch, the branch hit the line ;-)
lolz
He crashed his quad into the powerline and chopped the tree down aiming for the powerline to retrieve his quad.
I was going to say that his secret "Class Z" quad chopped the tree down...
Nah his quad just flew by and a prop strike chopped the tree. The quad was still flying after that
the pendulum effect of having the battery under will also give you warmer rear motors. slide the battery forward a bit to help compensate a little for that problem.
Educational that’s an understatement! You just saved a very expensive drone that I just built and noticed all four motors were heating up and so was my frame! On the first hover test I noticed and I honestly thought it was the drones weight! I discovered all the screws were touching the windings of the motors!! This guy is an absolute god of quads, thanks Joshua you saved me yet again!
You just diagnosed my hot motor problem, I thought it might be a screw touching but never even thought to get the multimeter onto the frame. Big thanks!
Power outage and you still deliver a troubleshooting video. You're the man!!! Thanks!!!
This older video helped me in a huge way. Thanks JB! Brand new Babyhawk II HD was crashing right out of the box. Turns out the motor screws were too long and there was continuity from three sets of motor screws to the FC. Final crash broke the frame and bent a motor shaft. Noted this in my warranty report to EMax :)
Thats pretty dedicated right there. Power is out for over a day and STILL making videos so we can learn something today. *ThumbsUp* I received the ThinkTank FPV Session backpack today and it is all the rage! I wore it at work right after it was delivered heh, with all my gear in it and one quad strapped to it. Yeah!
I absolutely learned something today. I couldn't figure out a year or so ago what the problem was with my RMRC hellbender 204 frame was. I h ad 1 motor that got stupid hot, and always. I thought my tune was bad, or something else was wrong. I also had the VTX causing issues with "smoke" where the 90 degree adapter went through the CF frame and made contact, so I thought I had a short somewhere, I rewired EVERYTHING, but the problem persisted. Never was able to diagnose that quad, and I junked that frame thinking it was crap. I bet money now that the problem was exactly this, and all along I blamed that frame! I need to buy a new one and build it out, and tell it how sorry I am.. hahaha Thanks man, as always, love your videos, and your dedication to our craft and teaching everyone!
One of the best videos I've seen in a while. Super helpful.
Again you have saved my butt, i just rebuilt my quad and put pads under the motors and one started to get very hot so the first thing i did was search your videos and yes my screws were to long :) thanks Joshua
Thank you Joshua, after a crash i had desynchs and a hot motor, thanks to this video and a multimeter i found the solution immediately.. i used to long screws, they damaged the insulation and made contact to a motor cable after the crash... thanks again
One of the most useful videos I’ve seen in a long time. Thank you so much for your advices!!
It's crappy outside today so putting around the house to practice acro. Just checked and my rear motors were indeed hotter also. Must be because we are usually on forward tilt so rear are usually working slightly harder. Another excellent video as usual
thanks a lot for this video! built another 5" with the new version Racerstar 2207 2400KV and after a minute of maiden flight two of the motors on the opposite sides were super hot and that's when i remembered your video. Just checked them with the voltmeter a surprise surprise both motors were showing continuity. Unscrewed the screws next to the wires and that fixed an issue. Thanks a lot for your help!
You're my hero Dude! Had a very warm motor, looked up "drone hot motor" on TH-cam, watched your video, and Bam!! Never would have thought a short to the frame would be the issue after a very careful build of a new drone. Thank You!
Good information! Definitely learned something today. Thanks for sharing this, Joshua.
Dude, thank you so much. Having issues after attempting to soft mount my motors and sure enough I have continuity from my frame to TWO of my motor! Thanks!
How could I have possibly not been subscribed to the literal source of all quad's power and greatness?!?! Done! :) ...love those Tornado 1407's btw, absolutely amazing! I'm running them on my Shrieker 130 :P
You just fixed my quad. Thank you. You really do make me learn something every time I watch.
Awesome!
Wow!!! You saved my butt with this information. Thank you so much Joshua! I am not sure how bad I was about to burn everything up after replacing a motor and did't notice the 1 mm difference in screw length. Watched your video and pulled out the Fluke. Problem solved.
Watched your video and 'just for fun' ran those tests for myself. I had just switched to new motor protectors and eyeballed the required bolt length using the back two bolts (because they were easier to see, and it never crossed my mind that the clearance on the front could be different).
Sure enough it showed continuity on all 4 motors to the frame because the front bolts were just long enough to touch while the back bolts were fine
Great timing posting this video :-) Thanks!
holy shit. I just built a 4'er with the same motors and the back left one is getting hotttt. Thanks for the vid
that's a huge quad!
Wow....thats professionally done...JB I think you're beyond your time...but Im sure you just study harder than the rest, dont take what you do for granted my friend, you take a lot of stess out of newbie quad operator....long life and blessings be upon you and your lineage, keep safe fly high👍
Yes, very very educational. Thank you so much for the effort you put in.
wow, thanks again. you saved me a bunch more headaches getting this one back in the air. this completely solved my issue.
Thanks for this video. I had 2 motors with this motor to esc connection! I wouldn't have neven known such a thing was possbile without this video. All fixed now!
Great vid, always good to learn something or get a duh reminder. So many things to watch for and I've seen a bunch of quick sloppy builds be big problems, checks like this would help save parts, time and frustration.
I thought I had a bad esc on my walkera rodeo 110. After watching this video It made me realize it might be the motor screws are to long cuz the landing feet broke off on a crash so now the screws are to long without the legs. I was able to mod the motor mount and now shes fine. So I just have to say thank you for this!!!!
Great video Josh thanks for uploading, didn't realize it was that easy to troubleshoot
Great troubleshooting video and explanation. Thx for posting.
An easy trouble shooting and build technique that'll save a lot of time & energy. The lead up to is very useful for understanding a variety of potential issues. Thanks!
Awesome Josh, I've been wondering forever why my rear motors always came down a bit warmer than the fronts. Thought I had an issue with all my quads lol.
Thanks JB, been having trouble with a product line from GEPRC the Crocodile 7, motors overheating on 4s, and smoking on 6s and can't help wonder if there isn't a relationship. Great work bro! Ya Ramblin' Wreak!
Dear Joshua,
thanks a lot for this great advise! It helped me a lot!
Greatings from Germany
Jan
Great video! Never thought of checking screws touching the winding like this.
Thanks! I like your videos. In my opinion the back motors get slightly warmer because they have to catch up with the front in every turn you make. Inertia also makes the quad want to do a backflip in every fast turn, which the back motors have to counteract.
You. Are. A. God! Thanks so much Joshua Bardwell! this is exactly the problem I had. I was forced to use longer screws due to my frame and Im 99% sure this is the cause. Thanks so much!
Wow this was one of the most helpful vids ever awesome... I HONESTLY appriciate everything you do for us. One
Great video, thanks for sharing the knowledge!!!
My kwad was all good,and one day like you said. It fell out of the sky randomly, i was like wtf. First i thought maybe a bad esc or because i removed the notch filters. But your video helped because i couldn't figure out why one motor was hot as hell. Thanks keep up the good work.
Its nice every time I watch ur videos I learn something new very nice thank u.
Thanks, helpful video :) Relaxing to watch and easy to learn stuff from you.
Great vid. Helped me solve an issue on one of my builds that I could not figure out what the hell was going on and I also got myself a multi-meter. Great stuff as always
I got hot motors and tried using the multimeter and low and behold it was the screws, just as you described. Thank you so much.
This video kicks ass. Nice stuff!
Totally solved my problem, screws were leaking power into the frame!! Great video , never would of worked that out
Great video. Learning more about my quadcooter everyday. Thanks
Great information, I had the same issue and now its sorted....
Big thumbs up.
As always a helpful video:) What's crazy is that for the first time time happened to me last night and of course I'm on the road. What's puzzling to me is that I lifted up the motor and ESC (screws all the way off) but it still tones from the frame to the motor wires. Odd.
Thanks Josh. Fixed my hot motor issue. was easy once you know what to look for.
Great video! I most definitely learned something new today. Thanks bud.
Thank you, this is a great tippet. Love ya work sir!
Thanks for this. I had one motor getting very hot. Going to check it now. I learned something today.
Good Work Joshua, I just discover the problem with my hot motors, it just a too long screw on it, and i should have a spare motor that I thought it was burned, but It was the same problem certainly. Thank you. ***** :)
Educational as allways. Thanks!
can anyone help me? i have a quadcopter board and the transmitter that i salvage from my old quadcopter, i decided to build a mini quadcopter with that board,and that works, but i crash it and a motor broke (front right motor), and i decided to repair it (not only the motor, but the frame,propeller and some repair). after that a problem happen.. the problem is, if i connect the battery to the board, a motor will spin (back left motor), but i didnt turn the board on, is the board broken? help me please...
sorry if out of the topic of the video
Joshua - you are a life saver! Thank you!
Hi Joshua,
Just a quickie to let you know that my esc's checked out it was my flight controller. I've ordered another. Thanks so much for your thoughts and time. 👍👍
Really interesting. Have to check one of my quads later where I was not able to found the issue.
EDIT: Checked out one of my quads and found out that this issue caused me a bad video signal. Changed the screw to a shorter one and all is fine. Thanks again.
Thanks, as always super useful stuff!
Thanks for this video. My new lizard 95 would fly good for a while but ever so often it would just roll over until it crashed. All the motors are quite hot after a flight but is 115+ here in Arizona so I checked the continuity and both right side motor bolts short to frame. I guess the mounting bolts are a little too long.
Do the two motors that were shorted need to be replaced? I can back out the screws and the continuity stops. I noticed you said that you were replacing the shorted motor in your video.
Thanks
Thanks for sharing this info sir, no wonder the motors were getting hot and I was having only about 5mins flight time.
Incredible, this video solved an issue I've dealt with on a new custom build. Never would have thought that was the issue! Wile E Coyote! Super Genius!!! Thank you so much!!!
Awesome vid just switched my esc and motor left rear same problem
Thanks for this great video. ... Abdul
Thanks for this. I have a quad that has a frame screw that is heating up like crazy, now I know why.
Hi Joshua
My motors are spinning up correctly only when put through BLHeli when calibrating ESC the rest of the time they just twitch.
Can you help me?
Many thanks.
Richard Ward
Hey I wanna say thanks so much for the video, ALL FOUR WERE DOING THIS!!! You seriously saved my ass, thanks so much.
I have two motors on a new lal5.1 that have "tone" (short to housing/ground) on or now off the quad that don't get hot should i worry about it?
Awesome! Thank you for the insight.
U are really great bro. Love all ur video. So many fix my problem with ur vid
Brilliant, I had 2 quads doing exactly that and I thought I had dodgy esc's, cheers dude, saved me some money there!
Totally cool motors after my first flight, after shortening the motor screws, thanks again.
Thanks dude, my back two motors were totally shorting. fixed!
I love this guy the man is a professor of fpv
thanks joshua, coincidentally just ran into this issue. i will go back because now what i thought was the solution may not have been. back to the bench!
Thanks this fixed my overheat issue I had on the build I just did that i sent you a video of.
Just bought an inductance meter to test for internal stator shorts, but this is a great tip for that cheeky hot motor.
Awesome TIP! TY Joshua!
your videos have answer to all my crisis except one I have tried to tune my quad and im enjoying the tune while flying line of sight because im ordering a replacement camera for my old one ,there for im not flying fpv, but ive always had a problem with my motors getting hot and I mean hot hot, youll say owch when you touch them even if I fly I smooth pack for 2 minutes only meating half throttle o fue times, is there a chance that its my esc motor combo, that's all ik it could be, my motors are tbs mr.steele v1 and im switching to v2s and my esc's are Favourite FVT littlebee spring 35A escs witch are considerable low end escs but ive had them bc of there price, do you think that's the reason, sorry for all the reading I appreciate your help deeply
Thanks for idea. I had same problem... Now Its fix IT... Good work
Very interesting stuff i have learned of that video!
I like to say thank you sir you are much help I was going to give up until I realized I needed to take out all my screws and then ran my drone again and come to find out thats exactly what it was I was grounding my motor with my screws
Great video!
Always educational..!!!
hello, i also had the motor getting hot on my 450mm quad front left. (using TBS clone frame)
but the strange point was, even i switching ESC and motor to other arm. the front left still getting hotter then other 3...
also changing frame not solve the problem
Any suggestion or idea to my problem?
This was so helpful ,thanks
Nice tips thanks!
I have a new Revo F4(Airbot/Flip 32 clone) and DYS mr 2205 2300 kv. When go to the motors tab and throttle up, at around 1300 it starts oscillating really badly. Above like 1500 the Motors stop spinning. They are also hot super fast. The FC is softmounted with your rubber standoffs and some foam between FC and standoffs I already tried some filtering and different Looptimes, but it didn't get better at all. What can I do, I'm really screwed up.
Josh for the save once again.. +1 Karma +1 Love
Very helpful. Thank you
EPIC tutelage going on here bud!!
That was great! Very useful
I build my first quad and noticed that Motor 1 and 3 (cw) get hotter than 2 and 4 (ccw). I use naze32 and 30 amp oneshot esc´s.
esc´s are calibrated, quad is hovering fine (still learning to fly so hovering is the only thing i am doing right now).
Am i missing something or is it a normal thing?
Thanks for these videos Joshua. Although you said that carbon fiber conducts electricity, I was dumb today and fried my ESC after replacing a dead motor :D I was like, let's just plug in the battery to see if the new motor works - ESC was not yet installed just rested against the frame, making contact between the battery pad and I think the current meter. Smoke came out LOL
My back right motor stopped spinning like the others after a minor crash. No visable damage anywhere on the wires or motor or soldered connections.
The motor will spin a few times quickly and stop suddenly. It does this for a few seconds then beeps and stops all together.
The other motors spin fine. It spins freely and feels the same as the others when I spin them with my hand.
I noticed a tiny drop of resin on the arm under the motor, Im guessing this means it got too hot?
After watching this video and hearing you talk about the battery wire maybe rubbing or touching the motor leads/arm and how this could
be a problem and conductor leading to it getting hot, I realised had my battery wire wrapped around the wires and arm of said motor.
Does it seems like this is my problem? I have new motors coming and I will for the first time re-wire/solder and change to the new motors. (im a noob). Any help is good help, thanks.
wow this is awesome!!!
It's my experience with rear motors that because the default settings rotate the props inward or counter clockwise on rear left and clockwise on rear right it overrevs the motors on yaw bank hard turns. Swap the prop rotation in betaflight cli, the yaw directions and in bl heli reverse the rotation. Of course it's not your topic here but I'd love to see a video of your experience after doing this. I believe more people would as well. I only build quads this way now I find it makes flight caricature better, don't pin rear motors at high rpms, and it doesn't throw mud or grass on camera's lens
Good vid. thanks very much