Thanks!! I was having hot motors and NOTHING I did would help... Messed with filters, PIDs, checked hardware, NOTHING. After changing to 48khz PWM, turning Demag Compensation off, and autotiming for motors... MUCH BETTER. Still a little warm, but definitely fixable through filters and PIDs! THANK YOU.
I recently had this issue. 6S / 7in build, all motors where getting VERY hot almost instantly after arming and going into a hover / mild flying. Would land about 30 seconds in and the motors where way too hot to even touch and smelled like they where burning! Tried all these steps and more and could not correct the issue. I was completely at a loss and getting very frustrated, I spent hours troubleshooting. I knew the build was configured right. For some reason I decided to switch the set of props out to a new but completely identical set. Boom! the issue disappeared like it was never there. I could not believe it. Turns out the set of props I was using, which was new btw, was defective and two out of the four props where total out of balance and super slightly deformed. You would never know by looking at each prop individually but stacking all on top of each other you could see the slight difference. Prop balancer also confirmed 2 of the 4 where out of balance. I could not believe that was the issue and had no idea out of balance props could cause that much havok to a quad. Now I'm concerned I significantly shortened the lifespan of my new motors and flight stack from the stress it apparently was going through dealing with the out of balance props.
Also just flying in this 110° F heat here in Texas you are just going to get hot motors period. If you can't grab your motors with your fingers and hold them tight for 2-3 seconds than they are too hot at which point you will smell the enamel burning off the coils.
Upgraded my u580 with a flycolor 4n1 60a esc. After a 10 minute flight I averaged around 26-28 amp draw in flight on 4006/740kv motors with 11 inch props. The motors were hot to the touch for a good 5 minutes afterwards. Concerning hot. Changed the timing to auto, disabled dmag, and the pwm to 48 (highest available) and the next flight I was only drawing 18-20 amps average and it extended my flight time from 10 minutes to about 15. Not only were the motors basically ambient temp but the battery was cooler too. Appreciate the advice!
Nice & informative. I have never had a problem with hot motors but I recognized a long time ago my motors only got warm when the oscillations were bad & my props were ratty. A few days ago, my quad would take off on its own as soon as I armed it & the motors would be a little warm; the problem was that the props were three months old, floppy from rebends & unbalanced af. As soon as I replaced the props, everything was good. Then again, I use the Hobbywing G2 stack. It is rock solid & doesnt even need tuning. Cant wait to try out that Flightone FC. So glad you always insert a flight sequence. Thumbs up, buddy!
Literally changed pdm to 48kh d mag off and lowered my d pid by 20 and it’s fixed all the heat issues, even tested out different props to see if it’d return and it just flew even better with the props I planned to use(higher pitch) thank you so much it was so simple yet I’m new and probably won’t of figured it out quickly
OMG finally got my motors to run cool. Thank you @Wild Willy FPV. My cinewhoop was fine on 4S but fried motors on 6S. Those ESC settings has finally cooled the motors!
Thank you so much for this video!! Ive been cooking motor bearings all year from super hot motors. I changed my ESC settings and now theyre cool as fffffffff. Youre the man Willy!!!
Hey Nick, great video! I 100% agree on PWM Frequency to 48 KHz and Motor Timing on Auto, but setting Demag Compensation to Off might easily cause desyncs, especially on 6S. That might not happen for people who run only top notch hardware, but with cheaper ESCs and motors, it might be enough to make the quad fall out of the sky - it will fall from the sky with cool motors, but still. :) So carefull with that setting! For everyone who has watched this and tried all of it, ESC settings, lower Gyro and D-Term Cutoff Frequencies, checked for long screws, lower D-Term on PIDs and so on, and STILL has problems with hot motors and a fluttery/shaky flying quad, try this: Take your props off (important!), put your quad on the bench and connect to Betaflight configurator, go to the motors tab, connect a lipo, check that "I know the risks"-button and then power up each motor individually. If one makes your quad vibrate on the bench a LOT more than the other motors, you might have a bent motor shaft and need to replace that motor. Sometimes it's very hard to see with the naked eye, but this test won't lie. If one motor vibrates a lot that will be practically impossible to filter out and all that noise goes into the PID loop and cook your motors, all of them. So if you have a bad motor, swap it out, before it kills all the others. :) And one additional tip: You probably heard many folks say it's better to stick with Betaflight 3.51 for now and not upgrade to Betaflight 4 just yet, eh? Don't trust them, make up your own mind! :) I found filtering in Betaflight 4 to be MUCH better than before, so give it a chance, it's not that new anymore. ;)
@@WillardFPV617 I haven't tried FalcoX myself yet, but I hear good things about it! :) Do you cap your throttle or scale it? I scale mine on my CineWhoops and love that feature - scaling does the same thing as capping, but without losing stick resolution. :)
Actually, what I just said is not 100% correct, because while capping will not let you increase throttle above a certain point, all the stick travel above it is effectively useless, and scaling will scale whatever your throttle limit is over the full way of stick travel, so effectively it even increases your resolution on the limit you set. So scaling allows for finer adjustments, while capping has the benefit of keeping your muscle memory as is, since throttle percentages stay where they were on the stick before. :)
I have a set of Brotherhobby VY 1507 that I challenge you to tame. Hot enough to blister your fingers. Tried your advice, two entirely different high quality ESCs, two entirely different flight controllers, all 4 motors get very hot within 15 seconds. I would like to like these motors but they have beaten me. I am not a noob. If you want a challenge I will send them to you and you keep them with my only request is to find out what you may find to fix the problem.
DUDE! Thanks you so much for making this video! I literally just built my first quad about a week ago and I've been having such a crappy time trying to get it to fly even a little bit good. I was just about to flash back to BF 3.5.7 and then I saw this video. So Thanks again, I'm glad i'm not the only one having these issues.
I found most all hot motors come from not grounded properly make sure connector and cap have a super solid connection 90% of desyncs come from poor filtering
This is why I stick to my old ass beta flight. I’m on like 3.0.1. Where I still have dialed in pids and fly the same setup as always. I still caveman wire my esc’s and never use blheli. My quads always fly perfect. I stick with what works for me.
Motors feel like motors after a flight on a hot day. I can feel there is a little bit of heat but the last time I was flying I had to wait for a while because they were scalding. Thank you!
I saw you post on IG saying follow this for Oscillations or Hot motors.. if I have a beat up quad that’s starting to get oscillations.. what adjustments could I do to make it fly better till parts arrive. Do these steps still apply? Beat up carbon and unbalanced motor are what I’m assuming are the problems
Great video Willy, you did a great job describing the issue and how to resolve it. I am going to try your technique. Do you do anything different with filters or esc timing when running 5 or 6 s packs rather than 4s?
Thanks!! This is literally the exact issue I'm having on my 6" lr build. Tried 3.5.4 all the way to 4.0.4 with no luck. My guess is esc settings. I'll let you know
Thank you! I have hot motors on my 9 inch quad and loads of oscillations and vibrations. Gonna try a few of these things and see what works. Thanks again, life saver!
Would the esc settings things be an all of the sudden thing? My quad was fine then all of the sudden have problems where any amount of throttle cause major noise and is un flyable and motors are super hot
I just made the ESC setting changes on my 3" Gecko. I haven't had a chance to fly it. (bad weather). Does your ESC recommendations work on 3" quads as well?
The weather finally cleared and I was able to put her in the air. I just wanted to report that with these ESC settings, I had no issues what-so-ever! Thanks.
What about the filter TYPE and AA. Would those also affect the hot motor fix. If so, in what way or which filter would coldest (probably alot less performance) medium heat (best performance) and hot but not burning (WILLARD JUICE).
You can change the filter types, but it gets a little more complicated in tuning so I would just leave the default filter types. I usually add a second biquad on d term though even though most stock tunes only have 1
I get two start up tones on my Flightone bolt32 esc ever since I updated to the latest blheli32. It flys perfectly fine but when I plug in It sounds like the front two give the initial beep then the back two give a beep then the final beep. Instead of all beeping at once. It’s weird but flys perfectly. Just seems the start up is out of sync.
Stanton High one of these days I’ll try to reflash it as well as another fl1 build I have. I also need to update some of my betaflight quads as well and update the fw. Just lazy lol.
@@archer4922 I have the same issue on all 3 of my builds. All different 4-in-1's and sometimes when I plug in, the tones all play at different times. If I unplug/plug back in, sometimes it'll play the tones correctly. It's weird lol. Happens on every one of my Falco builds. They fly like butter though.
RR I’ve never had so many issues on a quad that flys this good lol 😝. My other race rig is a hawk 5 I’ve had over a year now and have yet to have any issues with it. But all of my fl1 builds have weird issues that no one seems to be able to figure out yet they all fly and fly great. But other than my hawk 5 and Buzz 6s most of my bf rigs don’t have quirky issues but they fly like crap if at all. I have one that I get all the proper tones and everything is set up right in bf but once you arm it will fly about 10 seconds and just drop out the air. Every single time, I’ve put the esc on a diff rig and it works, fc the same works on different rigs but when I have it all on this one rig it won’t fly longer than 10 seconds. Lol crazy.
Hello! Where can i see and set these settings in Betaflight? PWM Frequency to 48 KHz, Motor Timing on Auto, Demag Compensation to Off. The motors on my Mobula 7 tiny whoop, specially the back motors gets very hot during flights. And i only fly it low and slow on angle mode only, running on 2s 450mah batteries. And i have checked them again and again, there's no shorts with the screw mounts touching the motor windings. Please help. Thanks!
Possible other reasons: D-Term actually too low and remove any soft mounts from the motors. At least that were two things I noticed in my Hot-Motor Journey. ,P
@@yosayogi539 I'd say mainly because it adds filtering that you can not control and also because it creates more troubles (like with screw sizes) than it solves. ,)
Love this video, thank you! I tried upgrading my esc's like you said to do, and I am getting this wierd message, any idea what it means? It says "ESC 3: ÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ16.6, ÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ"
Just do the esc fix like you suggest and mine pretty hot motors now stay only slightly warm. I use Betaflight 4 with rpm filtering and there it working awesome to. Thank you!
Thanks for putting out this video. I recently switched to Flightone because I don't get a lot of time to fly and when I do I don't want to waste it on trying to tune betaflight. I'll be honest I suck at it and with betaflight constantly changing that didn't help my situation. I'm having a lot better experience with Flightone but my motors are a little warmer than I like. There is a huge lack of video content on the technical side of Flightone as compared to betaflight so I really appreciate when a good video like this drops. Great job!
NB! Lots of people have been experiencing wobbles during low throttle using 48kHz PWM on a 5 inch. 48kHz reduces thrust at low RPM, which then wrecks the ability of the PID loop to maintain low throttle stability.
hey i crashed my drone into a tree and it was left there in the rain for about 6 days, i replaced everything except for the FC and ive been getting extremly hot motors at hover ever since i rescured it; i didnt touch the pids or filters before the crash and my motors never got hot. is there a high chance that my gryo is just damaged? the drone is mechanically fine.
Good timing on this video. I'm on a fresh build and motors were a little hotter than normal but no big deal. They actually cooled down going to 51466's which was surprising since they are more aggressive than DAL 5040c & S3's that I normally run. You reminded me that I always set my PWM to 48 and timing to auto but completely forgot. Also remember that your favorite prop may not be the best for a new motor, and though rare sometimes you can get a bad batch. Try different props too
Thanks mate, you helped me cool down my motors (2514 AirB), but now my ESC is getting really hot. Like in 20 seconds of hovering it's too hot to touch. Its a Racerstar Metal V2 60A ESC on 6S. Any ideas?
Hi Wild Willy FPV, I just finished installing T motor F60 pros on my quad, i haven't flown with them yet but testing them on the bench using motors tab in betaflight i seem to be getting hot motors. Is it normal for them to get hot on the bench? I am running BLHeli 32 esc's and those settings yourecommend.
My motors were fine until it got into the mid 80s outside. I noticed today that after just 1 battery, so 2min 30sec my motors burn my fingers if I hold them for more than 5 seconds. They never got hot like that before. This past winter I went from BF 4.2 to BF 4.3 and used a tuning and filter preset. Motors were just mildly warm when it was cold outside, but now too hot to touch. I did check and my blheli_32 was set to 24khz PWM. I changed that to 48khz. I'll try it out tomorrow.
Nice vid bro 👊 i do get hot motors sometimes , im so lazy and hardly hook it up to com and have a look . Lol ive learnt to fly with noise . Cheers bro 👊
I have some weirdness going on. This is my first FL-1/FalcoX build and I'm not sure what a micro failsafe feels like with fl1 but the kwad feels really notchy and dead stick feel? I'm running X-FIRE...IDK its hard to explain?
Bro. I need help with my Dolphin1 / FalcoX build. I’m trying this process. And if it doesn’t work I’m gunna try a new FC because everything else is new
I got hot motors on wildwilly FS pids on falcox dshot32. Falcox doesn't do blheli passthrough? It flew so good too, damn. Motors were too hot to hold. first thing i thought of was this video. Maybe it's dshot32. This is a hobbywing 60a 4n1, not sure it can even do dshot32.
Great tips mate, thanks. 😃👍In the whole time I have been flying fpv I never got hot motors. I'd hear all the stories about people getting hot motors until one day I updated my firmware on my fc and didn't notice my Ps in my PIDs were super high from the update. I'm glad I only hover tested it before I went out and ripped.
Nick's got the great info to share beyond the hot motors. You really help the community with your insight! I really want to leave a nasty comment like you ask, but I can't.. maybe someday
Ima try that for sure. Reflashed the BlHeli_32s to stock and stuff and re did the Radix to the latest. Before it would tweak out after grazing something within 20 seconds and drop or, it would have a 1 Hz bounce back after pitch or roll part way through the flight and I had to baby it or it would get worse and land.
Thanks for the tip been trying to solve the hot motors thing for two months yours was the first video to address blheli frickin awesome worked great thanks again, keep em coming
You have a luci and well founded description, However it's a near Zero to those who are new to quads etc (I.E.most like to unknowingly fry a motor from lack of first hand experience without a full visual tutorial.) Re-do this with on computer screen visual and cease use of acronyms. Then you will have an excellent useful tutorial that can be applied practically by nearly everyone who is in need of such issues with hot motors.
Thanks!! I was having hot motors and NOTHING I did would help... Messed with filters, PIDs, checked hardware, NOTHING.
After changing to 48khz PWM, turning Demag Compensation off, and autotiming for motors... MUCH BETTER. Still a little warm, but definitely fixable through filters and PIDs!
THANK YOU.
Wow. I haven't seen the esc settings suggested before and it made a HUGE difference for my build. Thank you!
I recently had this issue. 6S / 7in build, all motors where getting VERY hot almost instantly after arming and going into a hover / mild flying. Would land about 30 seconds in and the motors where way too hot to even touch and smelled like they where burning! Tried all these steps and more and could not correct the issue. I was completely at a loss and getting very frustrated, I spent hours troubleshooting. I knew the build was configured right. For some reason I decided to switch the set of props out to a new but completely identical set. Boom! the issue disappeared like it was never there. I could not believe it. Turns out the set of props I was using, which was new btw, was defective and two out of the four props where total out of balance and super slightly deformed. You would never know by looking at each prop individually but stacking all on top of each other you could see the slight difference. Prop balancer also confirmed 2 of the 4 where out of balance. I could not believe that was the issue and had no idea out of balance props could cause that much havok to a quad. Now I'm concerned I significantly shortened the lifespan of my new motors and flight stack from the stress it apparently was going through dealing with the out of balance props.
Number ONE! Fixed my plazma running hot motors by setting up the ESC in your way. Thanks dude!
Also just flying in this 110° F heat here in Texas you are just going to get hot motors period. If you can't grab your motors with your fingers and hold them tight for 2-3 seconds than they are too hot at which point you will smell the enamel burning off the coils.
So true!!
Having this problem right now. Can't tell if its my tune or the miserable weather
@@noahmcelwey2598 Probably a little of both.
Upgraded my u580 with a flycolor 4n1 60a esc. After a 10 minute flight I averaged around 26-28 amp draw in flight on 4006/740kv motors with 11 inch props. The motors were hot to the touch for a good 5 minutes afterwards. Concerning hot. Changed the timing to auto, disabled dmag, and the pwm to 48 (highest available) and the next flight I was only drawing 18-20 amps average and it extended my flight time from 10 minutes to about 15. Not only were the motors basically ambient temp but the battery was cooler too. Appreciate the advice!
Nice & informative. I have never had a problem with hot motors but I recognized a long time ago my motors only got warm when the oscillations were bad & my props were ratty. A few days ago, my quad would take off on its own as soon as I armed it & the motors would be a little warm; the problem was that the props were three months old, floppy from rebends & unbalanced af. As soon as I replaced the props, everything was good. Then again, I use the Hobbywing G2 stack. It is rock solid & doesnt even need tuning. Cant wait to try out that Flightone FC. So glad you always insert a flight sequence. Thumbs up, buddy!
Literally changed pdm to 48kh d mag off and lowered my d pid by 20 and it’s fixed all the heat issues, even tested out different props to see if it’d return and it just flew even better with the props I planned to use(higher pitch) thank you so much it was so simple yet I’m new and probably won’t of figured it out quickly
OMG finally got my motors to run cool. Thank you @Wild Willy FPV. My cinewhoop was fine on 4S but fried motors on 6S. Those ESC settings has finally cooled the motors!
Please can you pass me the configuration for the cinewhoop.my engines are very hot
Thank you so much for this video!! Ive been cooking motor bearings all year from super hot motors. I changed my ESC settings and now theyre cool as fffffffff. Youre the man Willy!!!
Hey Nick, great video! I 100% agree on PWM Frequency to 48 KHz and Motor Timing on Auto, but setting Demag Compensation to Off might easily cause desyncs, especially on 6S. That might not happen for people who run only top notch hardware, but with cheaper ESCs and motors, it might be enough to make the quad fall out of the sky - it will fall from the sky with cool motors, but still. :) So carefull with that setting!
For everyone who has watched this and tried all of it, ESC settings, lower Gyro and D-Term Cutoff Frequencies, checked for long screws, lower D-Term on PIDs and so on, and STILL has problems with hot motors and a fluttery/shaky flying quad, try this: Take your props off (important!), put your quad on the bench and connect to Betaflight configurator, go to the motors tab, connect a lipo, check that "I know the risks"-button and then power up each motor individually. If one makes your quad vibrate on the bench a LOT more than the other motors, you might have a bent motor shaft and need to replace that motor. Sometimes it's very hard to see with the naked eye, but this test won't lie. If one motor vibrates a lot that will be practically impossible to filter out and all that noise goes into the PID loop and cook your motors, all of them. So if you have a bad motor, swap it out, before it kills all the others. :)
And one additional tip: You probably heard many folks say it's better to stick with Betaflight 3.51 for now and not upgrade to Betaflight 4 just yet, eh? Don't trust them, make up your own mind! :) I found filtering in Betaflight 4 to be MUCH better than before, so give it a chance, it's not that new anymore. ;)
Hmm I've been running 6S on 2700kv and cheap escs for a couple weeks, but I throttle cap it in FalcoX to keep the rpm down
@@WillardFPV617 I haven't tried FalcoX myself yet, but I hear good things about it! :) Do you cap your throttle or scale it? I scale mine on my CineWhoops and love that feature - scaling does the same thing as capping, but without losing stick resolution. :)
Actually, what I just said is not 100% correct, because while capping will not let you increase throttle above a certain point, all the stick travel above it is effectively useless, and scaling will scale whatever your throttle limit is over the full way of stick travel, so effectively it even increases your resolution on the limit you set. So scaling allows for finer adjustments, while capping has the benefit of keeping your muscle memory as is, since throttle percentages stay where they were on the stick before. :)
I have a set of Brotherhobby VY 1507 that I challenge you to tame. Hot enough to blister your fingers. Tried your advice, two entirely different high quality ESCs, two entirely different flight controllers, all 4 motors get very hot within 15 seconds. I would like to like these motors but they have beaten me. I am not a noob. If you want a challenge I will send them to you and you keep them with my only request is to find out what you may find to fix the problem.
07:52 please teach us the exact insights on this hesitation-reverse dive -thing?!
Like doing a split s coming to a stop, then pop it back... kind of a rewind maneuver
the lazy method is just getting a blackbox log with both filtered and unfiltered gyro so you can see if its just a bad gyro or a filtering problem
Clear, short and insanely helpful. Thanks mate!
i haven't even watched a min of this video yet but had to stop and comment LMFAO that intro was the best man ok back to watching
+1 on that intro dude. had to watch it frame by frame. cudos!
Haha I have to have something fun in the edit because chopping up just talking alone would drive me mad 😂
Do you have frame reordering on in Davinci?
Your last few videos have some odd compression artefacts going on -> 06:09
Yeah it's on auto, I've tried some custom ones to no avail, but I was just playing with random numbers
Hey willy what is your all up weight of your quad.
I'm using the 2500kv 4s and its 645 with gopro feel its heavy what you think?
That's about what I'm at, I'm at 680g
Put that on a 5s and watch her scream! Make sure you have 6s equipment!! Lol
Thank dor the tips . But what exactly TEP that you called Hot motor? My motors are not hot i can touch them easily but they are little warm ....?
DUDE! Thanks you so much for making this video! I literally just built my first quad about a week ago and I've been having such a crappy time trying to get it to fly even a little bit good. I was just about to flash back to BF 3.5.7 and then I saw this video. So Thanks again, I'm glad i'm not the only one having these issues.
I found most all hot motors come from not grounded properly make sure connector and cap have a super solid connection 90% of desyncs come from poor filtering
Thank you very much.
I am using RadioLink mini pix. I dropped the "D" and "FLT" values it fixed my motor heating issue.
This is why I stick to my old ass beta flight. I’m on like 3.0.1. Where I still have dialed in pids and fly the same setup as always. I still caveman wire my esc’s and never use blheli. My quads always fly perfect. I stick with what works for me.
This helped so much! Thanks for this vid!
Any explanation why demag compensation set to off???
Motors feel like motors after a flight on a hot day. I can feel there is a little bit of heat but the last time I was flying I had to wait for a while because they were scalding. Thank you!
I saw you post on IG saying follow this for Oscillations or Hot motors.. if I have a beat up quad that’s starting to get oscillations.. what adjustments could I do to make it fly better till parts arrive. Do these steps still apply? Beat up carbon and unbalanced motor are what I’m assuming are the problems
Wait a sec...a troubleshooting vid and flight footage...🔥🔥🔥...killin it👌🏻
Best settings ever! Tested them and cold motors! Cold! Thank you sooo much!😊
Great video Willy, you did a great job describing the issue and how to resolve it. I am going to try your technique. Do you do anything different with filters or esc timing when running 5 or 6 s packs rather than 4s?
I never changed anything, but that depends on your setup
Thanks!! This is literally the exact issue I'm having on my 6" lr build. Tried 3.5.4 all the way to 4.0.4 with no luck. My guess is esc settings. I'll let you know
And?
Usually the esc settings fix my hot motors when i get them
Also check and make sure your motor screws are not touching the coil windings which could give you hot motors as well as video noise 👍
that was like the third thing he said
@@MrDifmaster cool deal... Some people need to read the information to comprehend the information 👍
where can I turno on Dynamic AA? I can not found it, is in esc settings or on betaflight
4:56 might get them ghost sorted out bud
Awesome to see that the WildWilly logo light made it into your video!
It's gonna be a part of the whole lighting setup now!!
@@WillardFPV617 so awesome, love it! it was fun to make, and I'm still glad it made it to you in one piece! it's one of a kind!
Thank you! I have hot motors on my 9 inch quad and loads of oscillations and vibrations. Gonna try a few of these things and see what works. Thanks again, life saver!
Would the esc settings things be an all of the sudden thing? My quad was fine then all of the sudden have problems where any amount of throttle cause major noise and is un flyable and motors are super hot
That sounds like its frame damage like an arm delaminated
I just made the ESC setting changes on my 3" Gecko. I haven't had a chance to fly it. (bad weather). Does your ESC recommendations work on 3" quads as well?
The weather finally cleared and I was able to put her in the air. I just wanted to report that with these ESC settings, I had no issues what-so-ever! Thanks.
What about the filter TYPE and AA. Would those also affect the hot motor fix. If so, in what way or which filter would coldest (probably alot less performance) medium heat (best performance) and hot but not burning (WILLARD JUICE).
You can change the filter types, but it gets a little more complicated in tuning so I would just leave the default filter types. I usually add a second biquad on d term though even though most stock tunes only have 1
I get two start up tones on my Flightone bolt32 esc ever since I updated to the latest blheli32. It flys perfectly fine but when I plug in It sounds like the front two give the initial beep then the back two give a beep then the final beep. Instead of all beeping at once. It’s weird but flys perfectly. Just seems the start up is out of sync.
Reflash the esc.
Stanton High one of these days I’ll try to reflash it as well as another fl1 build I have. I also need to update some of my betaflight quads as well and update the fw. Just lazy lol.
@@archer4922 I have the same issue on all 3 of my builds. All different 4-in-1's and sometimes when I plug in, the tones all play at different times. If I unplug/plug back in, sometimes it'll play the tones correctly. It's weird lol. Happens on every one of my Falco builds. They fly like butter though.
@@chino1608 yeah computer code is funny in that way.....
RR I’ve never had so many issues on a quad that flys this good lol 😝. My other race rig is a hawk 5 I’ve had over a year now and have yet to have any issues with it. But all of my fl1 builds have weird issues that no one seems to be able to figure out yet they all fly and fly great. But other than my hawk 5 and Buzz 6s most of my bf rigs don’t have quirky issues but they fly like crap if at all. I have one that I get all the proper tones and everything is set up right in bf but once you arm it will fly about 10 seconds and just drop out the air. Every single time, I’ve put the esc on a diff rig and it works, fc the same works on different rigs but when I have it all on this one rig it won’t fly longer than 10 seconds. Lol crazy.
Nice Nick are you still in Aus ?
Yep!
Hello! Where can i see and set these settings in Betaflight? PWM Frequency to 48 KHz, Motor Timing on Auto, Demag Compensation to Off. The motors on my Mobula 7 tiny whoop, specially the back motors gets very hot during flights. And i only fly it low and slow on angle mode only, running on 2s 450mah batteries. And i have checked them again and again, there's no shorts with the screw mounts touching the motor windings.
Please help.
Thanks!
any tips here as my ESC shows a separate Min PWM and a separate High PWM. both currently at 24k
{out of topic} Will we find the spare bell for the wild willy motors soon??
Not spare bells, but with the FlightOne replacement plan you get a whole motor replaced for about the cost of a bell
@@WillardFPV617 Thanks buddy...hopefully the replacement program will be available down here in aus as well 😔
Possible other reasons: D-Term actually too low and remove any soft mounts from the motors.
At least that were two things I noticed in my Hot-Motor Journey. ,P
Oh yeah soft motor mounts as well! I forgot people used those
Woot no more soft mounting motors??
Why remove soft mounts from under motors? This is important to a lot of nebs to understand why we should not and why we should use it. Please explain?
@@yosayogi539 I'd say mainly because it adds filtering that you can not control and also because it creates more troubles (like with screw sizes) than it solves. ,)
Any chance you could do a possible follow up of this video with the newest firmware of BetaFlight? :) thanks
I really wanted to do the first step but I have blheli_s esc's and can't find a way to change it there 🤷🏻♂️ is there a way?
For blheliS ESCs the default settings are fine!
Love this video, thank you! I tried upgrading my esc's like you said to do, and I am getting this wierd message, any idea what it means? It says "ESC 3: ÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ16.6, ÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ"
Totally off topic but what's the AUW with the hero 7 of your drone? Nice content 👍 as always 👌
680g I think
Just do the esc fix like you suggest and mine pretty hot motors now stay only slightly warm. I use Betaflight 4 with rpm filtering and there it working awesome to. Thank you!
Good stuff willy. Funny because I watch you a lot and have never commented. Thanks for being a big help in the FL1 community.
Please can you pass me the configuration for the cinewhoop.my engines are very hot
Motor timing and demag compensation are on blheli s should I still try you said to skip?
I'm honestly not well versed in blheliS settings so I don't know :(
@@WillardFPV617 Thanks anyway. 👍
My cinewhoop Gets hot on 6S but runs smooth on 4S. (I have a 6S Build). what could be the problem?
Thanks for putting out this video. I recently switched to Flightone because I don't get a lot of time to fly and when I do I don't want to waste it on trying to tune betaflight. I'll be honest I suck at it and with betaflight constantly changing that didn't help my situation. I'm having a lot better experience with Flightone but my motors are a little warmer than I like. There is a huge lack of video content on the technical side of Flightone as compared to betaflight so I really appreciate when a good video like this drops. Great job!
NB! Lots of people have been experiencing wobbles during low throttle using 48kHz PWM on a 5 inch. 48kHz reduces thrust at low RPM, which then wrecks the ability of the PID loop to maintain low throttle stability.
Hmm what about 32khz?
@@WillardFPV617 36kHz has been reported as a good middle ground if your motors are running too hot
@@terrorbirbfpv4732 that's some really good info!
Thank you for not assuming I drove screws into my motor.
hey i crashed my drone into a tree and it was left there in the rain for about 6 days, i replaced everything except for the FC and ive been getting extremly hot motors at hover ever since i rescured it; i didnt touch the pids or filters before the crash and my motors never got hot. is there a high chance that my gryo is just damaged? the drone is mechanically fine.
Good timing on this video. I'm on a fresh build and motors were a little hotter than normal but no big deal. They actually cooled down going to 51466's which was surprising since they are more aggressive than DAL 5040c & S3's that I normally run. You reminded me that I always set my PWM to 48 and timing to auto but completely forgot. Also remember that your favorite prop may not be the best for a new motor, and though rare sometimes you can get a bad batch. Try different props too
Thanks mate, you helped me cool down my motors (2514 AirB), but now my ESC is getting really hot. Like in 20 seconds of hovering it's too hot to touch. Its a Racerstar Metal V2 60A ESC on 6S. Any ideas?
Thanks brother! The ESC adjustments fixed it for me.
Hi Wild Willy FPV, I just finished installing T motor F60 pros on my quad, i haven't flown with them yet but testing them on the bench using motors tab in betaflight i seem to be getting hot motors. Is it normal for them to get hot on the bench? I am running BLHeli 32 esc's and those settings yourecommend.
The motor temps don't matter on the bench and it's usually bad for the motors to keep them running for an extended time without load
Does this work for miniquads too? 😛
yes, mini mirco maSSIVe all of themmmmmmm quadsssss
@@FlowTfpv 😆 will it work for my DJI miniquads as well ?
My motors were fine until it got into the mid 80s outside. I noticed today that after just 1 battery, so 2min 30sec my motors burn my fingers if I hold them for more than 5 seconds. They never got hot like that before. This past winter I went from BF 4.2 to BF 4.3 and used a tuning and filter preset. Motors were just mildly warm when it was cold outside, but now too hot to touch. I did check and my blheli_32 was set to 24khz PWM. I changed that to 48khz. I'll try it out tomorrow.
This hobby can be difficult to keep up with, so I really appreciate your informative videos. Thanks dude!!!
Hi what about motors cover for mavic mini ? This overheat?
You can't change anything on DJI quads :/
I have diagonal hot motors both CCW CW motors are cool doesn't sound good ether
Nice vid bro 👊 i do get hot motors sometimes , im so lazy and hardly hook it up to com and have a look . Lol ive learnt to fly with noise . Cheers bro 👊
I lol'd at the beginning when the quad came right back down. That was some funny ish right there. lolol
I got a flight vid coming up with an ending id like you to see...how do i make that happen
The best timed video ever .... just got new motors and they could be cooler
Subbed for short but clear technical tipps and great as usual flying video ;-)
I have some weirdness going on. This is my first FL-1/FalcoX build and I'm not sure what a micro failsafe feels like with fl1 but the kwad feels really notchy and dead stick feel? I'm running X-FIRE...IDK its hard to explain?
Could be crossfire, are you on the right region settings?
I'll check again. I'm also going to move my antenna away from the front to a rear arm?
Bro. I need help with my Dolphin1 / FalcoX build. I’m trying this process. And if it doesn’t work I’m gunna try a new FC because everything else is new
Great vid? And love your Dolphin Frame!
What camera angle do you use? Seems that it is about to 15-20 degrees. I’m right?
Yeah 20deg
very useful vid, not many like it, none this in depth thanks a lot!
I got hot motors on wildwilly FS pids on falcox dshot32. Falcox doesn't do blheli passthrough? It flew so good too, damn. Motors were too hot to hold. first thing i thought of was this video. Maybe it's dshot32. This is a hobbywing 60a 4n1, not sure it can even do dshot32.
That ESC can do dshot64 even, but my tune is VERY aggressive and doesn't run well on a lot of quads
Great tips mate, thanks. 😃👍In the whole time I have been flying fpv I never got hot motors. I'd hear all the stories about people getting hot motors until one day I updated my firmware on my fc and didn't notice my Ps in my PIDs were super high from the update. I'm glad I only hover tested it before I went out and ripped.
Nick's got the great info to share beyond the hot motors. You really help the community with your insight! I really want to leave a nasty comment like you ask, but I can't.. maybe someday
is anyones (if anyone has one of thease) eachine e013's motors overheat i even changed the to brand new ones and they stii ar overheating
Cold motor vs medium warm motor? Wich one will fly better?
@Michael Benjamin ok thank you😊 I will test them on the hittest weather and they should be warm😀
Always giving great tips! Thanks Mr Wild Willy sir!
Thank you! Maybe you could tell us how to not get a hot gopro in the next vid 😅
Good tips! How do you get TH-cam to make your videos so clear? Do you film in 4K or 2.7 then upscale to 4K?
Yeah that's the best way!
@@WillardFPV617 lol! Which one!
@@3000gtwelder oh both 😂 I film 4k on the Sony and 2.7k on the GoPro and everything is exported at 4k
@@WillardFPV617 Cool. I kinda figured that's what you meant.
Ima try that for sure. Reflashed the BlHeli_32s to stock and stuff and re did the Radix to the latest. Before it would tweak out after grazing something within 20 seconds and drop or, it would have a 1 Hz bounce back after pitch or roll part way through the flight and I had to baby it or it would get worse and land.
You're a hot motor. Lol
It’s tough to keep temps down when your motors overheat before you even plug in... I’m sure you noticed when you were here in AZ for DRL 😂
Thanks for the tip been trying to solve the hot motors thing for two months yours was the first video to address blheli frickin awesome worked great thanks again, keep em coming
What causes artifacts in the video like that? Is that something with the GoPro file or when Davinci renders it?
That's Davinci Resolve, the new beta versions seem to be worse with it, but they edit so much better so I deal with it 😂
@@WillardFPV617 yeah I've definitely noticed this with some of my videos as well. I wasn't sure if it was just my setting or the actual encoding.
How did you know I was having hot motor problems? Always on point Double Dub! Thanks for the tips and tricks! 🐬🐬🐬
I have a drone that immediately accelerates to 20 ft, then shuts down. Any ideas?? Thanks in advance for your time.
Whats the setup?
Fortunately a guy create a new lpf that erase any hotness in motors 😍👌🏻
Who what where and when
for me all i had to do was change AA from low to med-high motors cooled down
What that "AA" means?
Gmarapet Gmarapetov it’s a filtering setting. It goes from low to ultra high
@@MrEly2000 is it in flightone settings?
@@Gmarapet only on falcoX but yes its on the osd menu
You have a luci and well founded description, However it's a near Zero to those who are new to quads etc (I.E.most like to unknowingly fry a motor from lack of first hand experience without a full visual tutorial.) Re-do this with on computer screen visual and cease use of acronyms. Then you will have an excellent useful tutorial that can be applied practically by nearly everyone who is in need of such issues with hot motors.
music Track?
No hot motors but I just put a GoPro on my rig and now I'm getting mid throttle vibs you know of anything I can do
Need more filtering or less p/d
@@WillardFPV617 sweet thanks
Excellent tips & keeping this video for future reference. Super smooth flyin 🐬🐬
My quad twitches when i take off..but after that its all good🤷♂️ .. any advise?
What are you running?
Do you have d value on yaw? If so, remove it
also, are you blipping the yaw when u throttle up, by any chance?
Sweet flight man.