Review: Up to 500°C DyzeEND-X and DyzeXtruder!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ค. 2024
- This hotend gets seriously hot at up to 500°C! This does come with a few trade-offs, so is it worth it in the end?
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Thanks to Indmatec for supplying the PEEK filament! indmatecgmbh.squarespace.com/f...
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You seem to have a bit of a leak between the heater block and the nozzle. I use the dyze extruder and hotend and had the same issue in the beginning because I installed it as it came pre-assembled in the package. Tightening the nozzle fairly hard against the conical washer with the hotend warm at 220 celcius fixed this and now I'm able to do big prints running for several days without any leakage whatsoever. The best thing about this design is the conical washer between the heater block and the nozzle which gives a leak free and easy to change nozzle if done correctly.
Haven't been this early to a vid! Good review, very in depth and nice to see the internal working.
Great as usual!
Which crimp connector would you recommend for dressing the ends of the wires for use with typical screw block terminals?
Crazy this is over 4 years old now, time flies
Hey Tom you brought up a great point in regards to the a pot of deg of turn per step and how that fx resolution. I think it would be great if you can do a video that breaks down the ideal specs to look for when it comes to motors for extruder feeder vs linear drive motors and so forth to get the greatest results and resolution as well as where would be the ideal place to inter grave servos vs steppers
I switched the stock extruder of my Atom printer for the DyzeXtruder and got impeccable printing results so far, especially with filaments that are a little bit hard to work with otherwise. Support from Dyze was awesome as well.
Hello Tom! Tks for the review!
In the website they say it has a 5.65 : 1 gear ratio; but when you showed the inside of it, it looked like a regular direct drive..
Could you clarify please?
cheers o/
5:01 *fixing intensifies*
Great review. keep up the great work
Great review, as they always are from you Tom
After a very frustrating experience with the buy of an Ender 3, my DyzeEnd X Kit has arrived today. And have I been blind, dumb or juts to tired, I did not check how to fix the heatsink on the extruder....
But: I never expected to receive the Dyze that quick, so Dyze design has shown as very quick with delivery. And at a first look, this extruder real seems to be what I have been looking for, it just looks manufactured great.
Quick delivery, great quality and a perfect service, this i like I like it, thumbs up for Dyze Design.
I'm not interested in the high temperature, but the higher resolution extruder sounds like a great idea. I may have to search for a motor that does more steps per mm, but do you think that the solution that E3D came up with in the Titan is a better price point for something like this, or the stepper used in the DyzeXtruder? Thanks.
I love the way to adjust the existing printer. Kudos :-)
Thanks Tom, I really like your reviews. I'll be sure to use your affiliate links.
you should make a video comparing buildtak-pei and doing some testing on all of them.
maybe even testing how much heat magnetic ones can stand
I just had a cold nozzle change disaster with my DyzeX hotend. If the conical washer is not installed correctly, it's not going to be easy getting that nozzle to unscrew. Pay close attention to the washer orientation! Other than that issue, the Dyze Design extruder and hotend have been a solid performer.
+Thomas Sanladerer So would you recommend the hot end and extruder over the e3d v6 and titan extruder? I want to be able to print what ever kind of filament I want along with not having a lot of james or having to replace the nozzle a bunch ($20 bucks a nozzle is expensive!). I will probably print in abs for most of my stuff.
i love the boost converter idea.
i feel an insulating extruder nozzle focused on maintaining internal temperature would be far more efficient, than trying to conduct heat externally to the main channel, and then have it swamp the area. maybe one day they will have a high conductivity insert, inside a ceramic nozzle body, and a jeweled tip.
BTW I think they listened to your review +Thomas Sanladerer because they changed the heater wires to crimps from what you stated at 8:29.
Would you actually recommend Wade extruder for a bowden setup? Or should i stick with my MK8 Direct drive?
Love the video. keep up the great work!!!
Wont a spring washer at the nozzle loose it's spring temper at 500°C?
And 500°C is getting close to the melting temperature of the aluminium heat block. Wold be better to use brass or copper or something like that?
Could this be used to print the Mark forge nylon and carbon fiber filaments? I cant afford to spend $10,000 on one of their 3d printers, and i know their hot ends are specially made to print at above 300C temperatures so im wondering if THIS could meet that need.
Looks interesting. What i don't understand is how that litte cooling fan can live so close to the 500°C hotend and not melt away. It looks like the gap is maybe 2-3mm? Seems a bit risky to me...
How do you power such a crazy high temp extruder? I saw the boost converter but how exactly is that connected to the board?
What is the best pla/abs extruder in your oppinion? Im building a proper 3d printer using linear squared guides, ballbearing bar, servo motor instead steppers...
You can solve that 10:00 issue with swappable cores like makerbot and nova has. Dyze apparently hasn’t. My hotend has swappable cores, and I dont use PEEK core with other plastics. It has to have a dedicated core for it to avoid problems like that. PEEK doesnt really mix well with anything.
I'm building enclosed printer with heated chamber. Is this the best extruder for PEEK/PEI, nylon, polycarbonate prints? Or is there sth better?
great review - as usual :-)
As always, a fantastic video Tom.
I have the E3D v6 and the Titan extruder, both have worked flawlessly.
However, I have brought E3D's Hardened Steel nozzle, ready for when I get into carbon etc.
Do you think this will be ok for everyday use with normal (ABS/PLA) filaments? or will the lower conductivity prove problematic?
+Thomas Sanladerer Thank you
Where would I be able to buy those connectors for the heater cartridge and thermistor?
Heh... Retina stepper :)
Also, awesome outro!
I might have to get this next. Can it fit a Robo3d R1?
I see this operates at 12V. It seems compatible to me but before I shell out the money it is worth asking, is there anything keeping this from working on a prusa i3 a8?
The "slight modification" to mount it made me laugh.
Steel nozzles are ideal because of there thermal properties since they will be less effected by part cooling fans as the lack of thermal conductivity will help the internal area of the nozzle to resist temperature change keeping your temp linear curve smoother.
At that heat .. you would be able to use space age super thermal plastics if they made in 1.75mm spools ... I think they will some day !
I agree with TheMoonBent Lord, Moar Content!!! Love your videos and I have improved my printer 10 fold mostly from content you have made.
Is there any information about boost converters that are specifically for 3d printer heater cartridges? Issues with pulse-width modulation? Even more specifically, the cr10.
just look for step up converts on ebay or somewhere which will convert voltaghe from 12-24
Hello everyone and hi Tom! Im in the making of building my own 3D printer. And now im stuck in the following. Which extruder/hotend should i buy. I know i want a direct drive extruder/hotend but the only "full package" i can find is the MK8/9 extruders.. Are they any good or do you have another alternative for me. Just dont to expensive. I hope someone can help me :)
you can test with Ultem filament?
I have the Dyze hotend and extruder too... Also dont have a need for the 500 degree ability.
$600 for a pound of filament?? Oh my gosh! Peek or not that is crazy.
that is an indmatec price. the raw material is far cheaper even if extruded to 1,75mm. PEEK is an awesome material but difficult to process with FFF
I saw it for 89 at one site.
dragnet53 link or gtfo
was going to say the same.
PEEK as material isnt new and AFAIK it was always rather pricey. Also the fact that it is sought after in cutting edge medical applications wont be beneficial for its price development.
Nice review :)
Why do they have a liquid cooled option is the fan not good enough?
Really nice video! But for what material do you need 500°C?
These connectors are really sexy though.
Did you had some corruption in the videos?
+Thomas Sanladerer f.ex 6:22 . Happened bit more often and in a bit bigger way towards the end
+Thomas Sanladerer
POM will catch fire (or its fumes will explode) in high temperatures. Careful :)
stainless has a tendency to weld itself together. make sure you use high temp anti-seize
Can this solder stuff into a PCB? Solder wire melts at ~185°C, and the usual soldering iron tip temperature for soldering PCBs is ~350°C, so it should technically be able to solder right?
if you added flux - yes maybe ;probably terribly so if at all, otherwise - no.
using tin wire would be something fun to try.
Their are some weird machines that do CNC Soldering Small Scale. I was looking into these for my work with Open Source Ecology. I'll go get the link for you. Intresting idea btw!
@@satibel soldering wire is too drippy, probably won't work well in travel
@@99897767 then, dual extruder, first one lays a sacrificial plastic sheet with holes, second one solders.
I'm waiting for hotends to be able to print aluminum! :)
easier said than done, lead and tin have lower melting points, but the problem is when lead melts, it liquefies, it doesn't become soft and plyable like plastics do
that is why the metal 3d printers are sls based machines, not fdm, sls machined use powdered stuff and a laser to fuse tiny particles together
desktop metal ;P
Transparent aluminum or the regular stuff? ;)
Mig welders can be put on a cnc axis...
I like the new E3D Titan and the Bondtech QR extruder more
Wouldn't it, in theory, be able to straight up 3d print with tin wires?
I just bought this thing. :)
I was thinking that you will print with Pb or tin xD
Wow I'd be up for that!!!
tom please print something in peek and review/test/benchmark!
Made me wonder if it could be used to print metals so I had to check melting points.
While it can be used for tin (and zinc) little more is of use.
Have anyone out there tried to print in tin, by the way?
With a melting point of 232 degrees Celsius it shouldn't be an impossible goal.
+Harald Thingelstad metals and polymers behave differently when "melting". Metals have a melting point, like ice/water, at which they suddenly turn liquid. Polymers, on the other hand, have a much more gradual viscosity and no distinct temp at which they turn solid or liquid. This is often quoted as a reasons why metal extrusion printing like FDM wouldn't work.
Ah. Thank you. It needs to have a glass phase.
Somebody actually tried 3D printing with tin. One issue is high thermal conductivity, so he ended up melting and gumming up with tin his whole extruder. And then one liquid metal in the vicinity of another is always "interesting", because metals all alloy with each at least a tiny bit, so your nozzle, your throat, they're all getting dissolved into tin and printed out.
An alloy which has a gradual melting behaviour is possible though. I guess next step from there is some kind of all-ceramic hot end, and really thin wire to begin with. And very, very fine temperature control. Huge obstacles, and yet, perhaps somehow surmountable, but not with the kit we have now.
Wait you confused me.. you flooded us with negatives in the designs of both (honestly to the point that I lost interest in the product) but then said its recommendable?
Where did you get the firmware? Can you give me a link to the firmware?
what else is possible with 500° ? more interesting are things like polyamid or polycarbonate since this are "professional" materials (strong).
@5:31 - Get a wrench set. Adjustable wrenches shouldn't be used for anything that requires a decent amount of force and that smaller wrench looks like its 2mm thick and made of aluminum.
how does somebody down vote a review? Tom is straight forward and honest and I feel trustworth. The internet is full of wanna be jokers.
competitors...
Chinese sellers xD
Octo Cat lol
We got support for this into Marlin 1.1.0 - hurrah! Now if we can just slog through and scientifically scrub the remaining bugs, we shall soon get this puppy out!
I am still confused on why you would get a 500c hot end. What materials would you print at 500?
@pano, just cause we don't use temps that high, doesn't mean someone else won't. I'm guessing the higher temp specialty filiments that I can't afford will need that. Like printing PEEK:
www.3ders.org/articles/20150322-revolutionary-peek-filament-now-compatible-with-fdm-3d-printers.html
But, I didn't think your average user will need it and I'm sure you better have special exhaust unit also, nasty fumes probably come along with higher melt temps, but that it's just a guess.
hi subscriber of me. :) thanks for reply i got to checkout that filament
You found me out Tom. Love following you when you walk your dog around. :)
So whats the big news? Don't tell me. Your preggers?
ujhh stainless steel is mostly better in all ways to carbon steel, if it is ferritic stainless steel it is probable even harder than most hardened carbon steels.
can we use any metal like titanium and also carbon fibre... instead of plastic?
abhijeet kumar titanium has a way too high melting point and has to be in a innert atmosphere when molten, otherwise it wil burn until it's gone
In SLM or DMLS machines. That require argon atmosphere and at least 4kW power draw as you have to heat powder and power the laser. So yes, you can print metal, just its outside DIY capabilities.
Wojciech Lewenstam multi million dollar machines
Yup, I know. But it's the only way. Building hardcore CNC Mill is much cheaper.
Wojciech Lewenstam but that way you can't get the complexity from 3d printing
500C that's crazy.
The Pico hot end can reach 500c too!
You forgot one important bit from review: Price :)
We need these temps for carbon fiber and other materials so water cool it and run it.
Tin helps a situation where untinned connector would lose and those few left wires would became a hard resistance so started burning.. This situation wont happen with a tin
500°C!? So, you could theoretically feed solder into that thing? (Yes, I know, there are many reasons why it wouldn't actually work.)
+Riku Koskinen I solder with Pb-free at 400°C tip temperature.
+Riku Koskinen Nope. Of all the random useless knowledge I have, I had apparently never looked up the eutectic point of Sn-Pb. Sorry to offend you.
Pretty sure their nozzles are tungsten, that’s why a pack of 5 are like 200 bucks
200 more and you could extrude aluminum.
Yeah, and 1000 more and you could extrude steel
now try Printing with solder
$230 for an extruder kit? Thanks, I'll make it myself
If you make it yourself it will cost you much more because your time has value which you're not considering. Try attributing $50/hr to your time (or whatever hourly wage you earn at your job). Can you make that thing in 4 hours?...I highly doubt it.
I don't know where you live but an hourly wage of 50usd/h is ridiculous for us balkans, it's more like 5usd/hr
Is Balkan a country?
nope, we just call the region balkan where the countries of ex yugoslavia were
3D print Solder
I don't care about the temp! I want a jam free nice light reliable hotend! Specially with an integrated extruder
PEEK requires active ventilation, else it's pretty toxic.
OMG 120 C° more And you can melt aluminum
sooner or later someone will probably build a 650+C hotend that can print aluminium.
rallekralle11 won't work, aluminium instantly oxadises and the oxidation melts at double the temperature of normal aluminium, hello clogs
+tobeproduced inert chamber mabe?
Nems271 the layers underneath it would oxadises aswell
wouldn't be worth it, at that point just use a cnc mig torch
tobeproduced someone is already doing that, and they use a cnc mill on each layer to get it better.
Cringing at a 500 degree thermistor. I wouldn't feel safe with using it.
Hoooow, that background music is a bit distracting.
Dude, you just love hurting your machines, do you? :))) 2:10
I always wanted to 3d print metal :P jk
Who the fuck needs to print at 500C?
me
+jabo109k why?
i've seen an exotic material at my university requiering 350c. So, no not 500 but for sure more than everyday 300c nozzles
If you want to print PEEK, you need that crazy high temp, as Tom said. Realistically though, PEEK is really a pain to print using FDM, and with the crazy price tag, it really isn't worth it. Given that's really the only thing you would realistically print with that temp, not many people.
I really need a 1200°C graphite hotend to print PBI, which would run at around 5000$, because I could only find it by the ton, but that's 5$/kg which is cheap.
PBI can resist a 700°C flame for a few hours, so for an oven or aluminium furnace it sounds good.
that's a joke, though 3d printing a furnace sounds tempting.
kitna bolat hai yaar....