E3D’s end-all extruder: The Hemera! (Full Review / “formerly known as Hermes”)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 เม.ย. 2024
- E3D’s Hemera is a fantastic dual-drive extruder and hotend combo - and even though it’s not called “Hermes” anymore, it’s still got the potential to make other extruders like the Bondtech BMG obsolete!
Get the Hemera here:
Matterhackers www.matterhackers.com/store/l...
Amazon UK (Bowden version) 🛒 geni.us/AFqy
E3D Store e3d-online.com/e3d-hemera-175...
Read the article to this video here: toms3d.org/2019/12/10/hemera-...
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The BMG was always an insane price anyway, I was going to purchase one a few weeks back but the assembled direct drive unit for the CR-10 was €280 plus another €21 for postage. They've priced themselves out of the market as far as I'm concerned. I received my Hermes on Friday (original branding still) and I love it, it's the best extruder I've used in four years of printing.
Was it an easy fit on the CR-10? What improvements have you seen? I'm still running the stock extruder with ABL. Guessing I'd probably have to solution a side mount of sorts if getting one of these?
@@rfc1795 I put mine on an S5 using 3DMN's stls from MyMiniFactory. It's a pretty easy install if you know your way around a Creality machine. There's a tiny bit of soldering involved but that's the worst of it.
All TH-camrs ask you to ring the bell. I never ring the bell because I always go and check out my subscriptions page when I'm looking to watch something. I can't be the only person who does this. I share this only so you know that not ringing the bell is by no means an indicator of lack of interest in your channel, just a lack of interest in yet more push notifications.
Thanks for the vid Thomas, really amazing how mature the technology around hobby 3d printers is getting :)
OK tom, you get the bell. I've never done this before but you're the best, all substancial content, not just content for the sake of content.
Hey you! Yes, you. You watching my videos but not subscribed yet!
Proprietary motor? No pancake version? expensive parts?
*chinese guys: "Hold my tea"
And the Hemera cracks and breaks like a cheap die-cast toy. I was hopeful, now I am just disappointed.
*chinese guys*: "Hold my dog meat"
You guys had bad reviews? what's going on?
Chinese guys: hold my covid-19.
@@drobertson123 That problem has been fixed before retail units were made, please watch the entire video before commenting.
Really interesting to learn about the improvements over the Titan aero design. Close ups of the diecasting and drive gear components moving was awesome too. Geat information on how Hermera is a combination of extruder, motor, heatsink, and hotend all incorporated into one assembly. Along with dual drive.
Your very knowledge perspective on 3d printing makes for really helpful informative vidoes. In this one especially, you pointed out how great & practical it is to actually have this all-in-one component to use on a printer setup. Something I didn't fully consider and it makes me want one even more Fantastic review Tom!
Ps. The bmg has met it's match and then some for sure hahaha!
Can't get E3D to sell me replacement gears/bearings/drive components. I need to keep spare parts on hand to prevent downtime in case of failure. They sell everything else, just not the parts that are prone to wear and tear.
Thank you for your detailed explanation and supporting images. 👌
Dope intro Tom! Love the content, keep up the good work :)
Glad to see you're positive about the new Hemera. I took the risk and ordered one early for my Artillery X1 V3. I'm printing the adapters now.
so how is it treating you? I got my sidewinder x1 about a week ago and its printing pretty flawless only date ive done so far is the micro swiss harden plated stainless nozzle and just order the micro swiss heat break.
@@zachofalltrades6116 I just got mine the other day and I love it so much I am selling my cr10 lol. Something else I recommend is something that Joel the 3d printing nerd pointed it that I ending up doing and that's replace the tubing in the hot end with capricorn tubing.
Can I ask why you want to change extruder and hot end on the X1? Imho it has among the best on the market. The CR10s, Enders and Wanhaos I can understand why need an upgrade, but not the X1 🤔
Fantastic review Tom! I just installed mine on my Ender 3 and dialed the settings in. The quality is amazing and it looks like I'll be ordering two more for my other machines.
How are you feeding filament in? What kind of mount/holder?
@@woodwaker1 I'm using the Hemera in Direct Drive, not Bowden. Joe Casha (3DMakerNoob/3DMN) designed a nice mount for the Ender 3. He posted a video on his channel about it and posted the files on MyMiniFactory. I'm using a different fan duct that I found on thingiverse, and as far as loading in filament, it's going straight from the spool holder at the top of the frame straight down into the PTFE tube and directly through the extruder.
@@thenerdlabofficial Thanks, I ordered the direct drive also, I have printed Joe's backplate to see what it looks like and watched his video for about the 10th time. I think it is finally sinking in how this will all work together. I also need the EZABL mount and have 4020 fans on order. Looks like it will bbe a great mod.
@@thenerdlabofficial More than a sure bet that it was the changeover to DDrive that gave result.
Bowdens are simply a foolish marketing affectation
Don't feel bad for Bondtech.
Things will only get better and cheaper if there's actual competition between manufacturers
Bondtech could've done this, but didn't. I don't feel bad for a company that overcharges for plastic boxes with a couple of cheap gears in them.
@@YaFunklord You have no idea what your talking about. Bondtech is not overpriced. Bondtech cases are SLS printed in Nylon. Go ahead Engineer, Prototype, Test and then manufacture a product using SLS printed Nylon, even in the tens of thousands see what your production costs are. Try running any of the Bondtech Chinese knock offs at the same speeds as a genuine Bondtech, guess what you can't cause they cant reproduce the filament path with injection molding that Bondtech does with SLS manufacturing.
Wow, some people will go to any length to justify their purchases.
For that price I'd expect them to be made of metal components or at the very least be injection molded.
But it still doesn't change the fact that they are just set of cheap gears in a box for the same price as others can produce a complete 3d printer for.
@@YaFunklord Your still failing to recognize that Bondtech case CANNOT be injection molded, hence the SLS nylon construction. To each there own was just trying to show you its not just a box with gears
@@scotthancock8225 That's just bs. There's no such thing as "can be 3d-printed but not injection molded". It's called lazy/bad design. Fused injection molds are still stronger.
And besides, cast or machined metal parts would've been the expected. Not any kind of plastics.
Interesting to see a competitor to the BMG, that isn't a clone of it. Then again, E3D has been innovating design ideas for a while.
Let the extruder wars begin.
its gonna be war full of innovation. Watch bmg just go bowden, and e3d clamp onto direct drive :)
It would be interesting to make a setup where you have one big frame-mounted stepper to handle the mass of the filament roll, and one small pancake stepper to apply pressure at the printhead. As long as they move in sync and have a bit of filament slack between them, the direct extruder should be totally isolated from the spool, which I think would be a big help.
Awesome job Tom keep up the amazing content 💯
Thomas I picked one up based on your first video.... I can't wait to get it, and I've never bought something so fast based on anyone's video of a new product.
Thomas, you are a legend when it comes to 3D printing. You are my goto person on the internet, for EVERYTHING 3D. You are very thorough, concise, clear with your speech, you have excellent production quality and very interesting topics, making your videos easy to watch. You helped get me up and running just over 12 months ago with this hobby and my new Prusa I3 Mk3s. I hope you are still producing more of these videos for years to come. Thank you from Australia. :-)
thank you for this, but what I want to know is what do we get out of the hemera? Will we be able to print faster with it? Will there be less chances of stringing or bobbing? Will linear advance work better with it since there is less spring between the drive and the nozzle? I want it to be an improvement but I don't see how has any improvement other than for flexible filament. Can we see a side by side benchy?
I think you're the guy who convinced me to get the Hemera. For my CR-10S Pro V2, it fixed three things: 1. Print flexibles fast, 2. Print Nylon/PC, 3. Have literally no stringing.
Thank so much for all your videos. I use allot of your info in my decisions so thanks again.
Hi, Tom! I just have finished setting up Her.. Hemera. Few things I think can be improved:
* M3 thread in heatsink. Many will replace stick fan with Noctua or something else and stock screws will be too short
* An extra bag on M3 bolts in different lengths in 2mm increments to fit accessories to Hemera. Those accessories threads are annoyingly short.
* Lack of printable accessories. I had to make my own dual fan duct for 40x20 Noctua fans (search thingiverse)
* Lack of motor settings. I have no clue what current value should I use.
But I like Herm.. Hemera. Need to test it out now.
Thanks for the video! I was waiting for a good explanatory good quality video with good views since the Hemera came out. Keep it up man
Very nice review, loved the energetic intro :) I'm planning to build a compact crossed gantry printer and I believe I found the extruder I will use :)
I think about a year ago you went to their new place and Sanjay talked about the all in one cheaper solutions.. die cast parts etc.. but I like this one even though it's all in one and proprietary you know it works.. seeing their worth ethic and QC with Similarity to Josef's factory.. I think that's huge advantage.. there is market for super cheap, there is market for quality well priced product and there is a market for super high end products made from rare materials to create super precised parts.. similar to TItan CNC machine shops.. .. Thanks Tom.. good work as always..
Thanks for the overview Tom. Cheers, JAYTEE
Thanks a lot You always have the best content.
Interesting combination. I love the idea of dual drive, but just like you said, I don't remember the last time any of my printers chewed up filament.
The thinner profile of the threads in the heat break seems like a good thermal improvement. Like with the Slice Engineering hotend, thinner metal means less thermal creep from the heater.
Great review, thanks Tom!
I think this was a fair unbiased review Tom, thanks 👍
I'm having an Ender 3 delivered this week, and will probably add a direct drive extruder as soon as I can. I messed around with a Tevo Tarantula a year ago and have printed nothing since.
For comparison, I weighed my Titan Aero with slim motor at 297g (includes the heatsink fan, heatbreak, heater block and nozzle with sock. Not including mount).
Always great. Thanks!
I like this intro b roll with the purple lighting and the roll transitions between shots :thumbsup:
Thanks for a great review, which is important
To me as a mechanical designer & a 3D printer.
I wanted to upgrade my LulzBot Taz 6 with a good 1.75mm extruder, and the Hemera fit the bill perfectly. As you say, E3D did a great job getting build guides and mounting parts out there. I followed the Taz 6 guide and it went together quickly with very few problems, and I'm now happily printing away with the Hemera. Quality of the printed parts is amazing; easily as good as my Prusa Mk3s. At $119 (plus a couple fans) I consider it a bargain for breathing new life into my Taz, plus I can now share filament between that and my Prusa.
This is awesome to hear Josh! Happy printing, E3D
Hey Thomas, Great video, can you tell me where you found that circular fan shroud STL??- (trying to install on my CR10 S5) Thanks- Also, I cannot seem to find the correct thread for the small heatbreak fan (the one that covers the cool SWOOSH fins) - have all of the screws from the Hemera Kit, screws from my new E3D volcano kit and all the old screws from CR10 original parts (fans, extruder, hotend), none of them work smoothly in those holes.
The Hemera definitely looks like a good bit of kit overall. It has its place in the market for sure and hopefully we see more kits like it in the future.
The only issue i see with it is that its not new user friendly. The bondtech is no walk in the park either when it comes to a direct drive conversion, but having to flash new firmware to accommodate the new thermistor and heater cartridge as well as any bed leveling probe position changes might turn some people off. That being said, this is hardly a "new user" upgrade, but I have definitely seen people who buy a thousand upgrades for their machine all at once and then get disappointed when things dont work.
The bondtech on the other hand is compatible with a few existing bowden setups to provide an increase in performance in the interim of a direct drive conversion or permanently. You dont have to make any firmware changes with it if youre not comfortable or its not an option, just swap two wires on the stepper header and add M92 to your starting gcode.
Im also not too fond of the custom stepper housing with tiny gear on the shaft as this basically throws user serviceability out the window in the event of failure.
My two cents aside, I tapped the bell and I'm already subscribed. Thank you for another great video and all of your contributions to the community.
I don't think Users that don't know how to flash firmware would be purchasing any hotend/extruder parts... It's pretty much unavoidable outside of a Prusa style eco system...
@@justindelpero you are correct. I acknowledged that briefly, see "this is hardly a new-user upgrade." Marketing 3D printing hardware under the impression that inexperienced users wont purchase the product in question is a bit of an oversight and is the only reason I mentioned it at all.
If you frequent any 3DP Facebook groups you see new users purchasing hotend/exteuder parts all the time.
You can put in ESTEPS in your start GCODE. If you re-use your original stepper that is it. The only time that you may change firmware directions is if you are not wanting to swap wires around.
perfect review. thanks.
Necessary comment to state that Tom is still awesome :)
Is this still the best you can recommend? Or which one do you use in favorite? Im having a CR10 which performs perfect, but im about to maybe upgrade to direct drive system, because i print lots of TPU aswell.
I really really wish you did some analysis and tests.
also the price only makes sense when you're building an entirely new printer. otherwise most of us already have the motor + v6 and change the extruder or one part at a time.
you can get the bowden extruder which is a bit cheaper. but running it in a bowden configuration kind of defeats its purpose imho
I am forced to buy a block here -- which I don't want. I have e3d's own copper blocks, and nozzlex already...so please if there was an option for just the hemera, special stepper, fan, and heatbreak, that's where that combination needs to end.
@@kazolar there's the bowden version. manually add the heatbreak
@@kazolar You can buy the parts separately. It probably wouldn't save you too much, but it can be done.
Re: Tests / Analysis
Agree, I'd love to see this done to a printer like an Ender 3 in an A/B test where A is the traditional bowden (possibly with a V6, so variables are reduced) and B is the Hermera .. curious what the extra mass does to maximum print speeds.
Such a nice Introsound.... :)
aAh .. I wish the hemera would make sense on my modded ultimaker one bowden printer but it would be to heavy for my printhead carriage....
thanks for your great informative videos and greetings from austria
I got an Aero at the start of the year(ish) and it has been doing awesome. The hemera wont make my prints better than they are now, it's not lighter, the aero never skips, and I certainly wont save money buying something new. My printer is self built so I would even have to design a new mount. This is just more work all the way around. If I was making something new I might consider it just for the cost savings of having everything in one package. Glad to hear your thoughts on it.
Yeah, I agree. If you already have the aero, there is no need unless you need the air blown away from the part. Buying another stepper motor just sounds a tad excessive too. I hope they can make this as an upgrade kit, though i would be hard pressed to recreate the shortened shaft and pressed drive gear on one of my steppers
@@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany If I was truly worried about extra air hitting my parts, I would grab up some thin alu flashing from my toolbox (I know there's a few scraps in there). A very small piece is all that would be needed to block the air from going that direction and it would be under the heatsink, so effectively invisible and weight next to nothing. No need to get fancy hehe
@@ianide2480 the air hitting your parts is a minor thing. The major features of this are dual drive and very short filament path, which helps a lot with flexibles and with speed.
Does the motor's heat cause filament to soften when driven by TMC2130 drivers, like in the Prusa MK3S? I'm in the process of rebuilding to a BNBSX extruder to isolate the motor from the filament path due to extreme filament jam issues on long prints.
Ah, so it effectively it's already a pancake stepper, just large end caps.
What did you end up w/ for retraction for PLA? I'm around 0.25mm w/ my Titan clone and that's w/ a minor backlash click that I'm trying to adjust out.
Just one question thomas. If you have a dual extrusion printer would it be possible to pint with two different materials? EG petg and abs? If so what would the strength of the item be?
Awesome B Roll!
Thanks family friendly Tom!
01:02 im new to 3d printing... why do you not need the fan anymore when you switch to bowden?
I literally got my BMG V6 Moon's combo about 3 weeks before these were available for purchase. I wanted the best extruder setup for my printer. I knew about the "Hermes" at the time, but it seemed like they kept delaying releasing it. Now it's hard for me to switch because my setup works fine. I can't really recommend the BMG anymore since E3D's version is so cheap and you don't have to peice a kit together. A true turnkey dual geared extruder.
Typical buyer's remorse.
@@Arek_R. Yes haha but not really any remorse. I have beautiful prints thanks to this setup. Just wasn't cheap as the Hemera.
Same, I just got mine recently but had considered the hemera. Went with e3d Titan hot end and a good quality bmg clone. People rave about the nimble so I'll look into both of those for my next setup.
Just curious... my heated bed is 24V. I guess I will have to get out my meter to tell how much voltage I have across the Extruder? I have an Alfawise U20 One printer. I would think that I need the 24 Volt one... I am new to 3D printing and my printer also uses the Bowden style extruder. I guess it would be best just to replace the Bowden?
Could you do a comparison of part cooling fans for the hemera ? there are a lot of designs out there.
Actually the chineese already made kind of "Dual Drive BMG Aero" before (nearly one year ago). The airflow concept of the hemera is better, also the heatbreak going up to the gears. But on the positive side, you reuse heatbreak, nozzle, hotblock and pencake stepper, so much less money if you want to upgrade an existing system (f.e. if you have already have a copper heatblock, an mepa heatbreak, a nozzleX, an orginal Bondtech BMG).
I hope e3d will sell the hemera as an upgrade kit without heatblock, thermistor, heater cadrige and nozzle. Anything downside the heatbreak is compatible to v6 anyway. If you have nozzleX or Ruby Nozzle - why being forced to get the standard e3d nozzle and pay for it? If you already have a 24V heater cadrige - why paying a second time?
Those are all cheap parts that it is nice to have extras of anyway. I don't see any benefit for E3D to create another sku for that.
@@lavachemist original e3d heatblock with nozzle, heater and thermistor more than 35 € I wouldn't call "cheap" for putting them in a box just as a spare; esp. if the equipment you have already are NozzleX, Cooper heatblock and a thermistor you already have set correctly in Marlin and works well (would not use an other type of thermistor as a "spare" as I prefer a simple replacement in case a wire breaks, to get the printer working again fast, not researching what type I have to set in Marlin for the replacement and reflashing the firmware...)
I was hoping for an upgrade path from a V6 and priced out the individual parts, I think you save ~ $30-$40 if you buy the parts individually. So it might just be better to sell the V6 second hand and go with an all new kit.
I don't see why the authorized retailers couldn't do a special bundle though using those parts.
Ole Urgast they retail for that much. They don’t cost e3d more than 10 bucks or so to include.
Hi Tom i bought the Hemera Direct Drive Wherecan I get themounting Block what you show in your Video?
The Hemera is looking incredibly good value when alternatives might be a mosquito and a bondtech extruder.
But there's a huge ecosystem around bondtech-like extruders and V6 compatible hotends with really good cooling. I'm not sure I've seen anything as good for the Hemera?
Definitely needs a water-cooled version for a heated chambers, which includes cooling for the steper and the extruder.
Also, there is a modified BMG from chinese company TriangleLabs, which is made of aluminium and combines the extruder and the heatsink the same way. And they also sell water-cooled version.
Id like to know if it can pull one of the Big PETG rolls. I cant find 5kg rolls of PETG but I can find plenty of 10lb rolls. With a good bearing supported spool holder can this extruder handle pulling that big roll?
A super nice video would be a detailed comparison of the specs of the most popular extruders and hotend on the market.
How much force they can apply to the filament, with which maximum speed.
How much volume of plastic can flowed into a nozzle before it can't keep up...
It takes time and money for sure, but what a great resource with all nice graphics, csv and everything !
Hey Tom! So I got 4 HEMERA upgrades for my print farm for my Ender 3's. I am unable to get some clear Sainsmart TPU printing for longer than 20 minutes before either: A) The filament stops feeding (low tension), or the filament gets crushed and is blocked by the tight tolerances of the Bowden adapter (high tension). I've gone through E3D's entire troubleshooting guide- waiting for support to get back to me. Any ideas what might be causing this issue?
I have a cr 10 and getting sick of a few issues. Thinking of getting a broken sidewinder and stripping it. Basically just keeping the frame. I am torn between this hot end and the slice mosquito + Bond tech. Obviously price is different. If budget were no issue, which would you do? I know you are always loot for video ideas... Maybe a slice mosquito vs a hemera or e3d v6?
I'm more into speed printing, but i don't know if Hemxxx is good for tuning my Hypercube up to 300mm/s. Got it someone to work? My alternative is something like Nova-Hotend and BMG Extruder. Tests with my Titan Aero lead to step losses and finally a broken Titan extruder case (Backpressure? Unability of V6 Hotend to melt so much plastic in short time?).
in terms of mounts, is there anything done for "S" IR filament detection?
Subscribed and belled! Nice review Tom.
Do you have the link for the raptor 2.0 mount. Was thinking about upgrading my raptor 2.0 extruder with this
hi Tom love your videos ,, there is a new way to feed the hotend , (floating extruder ) just hovers above the hotend at all times ,no weight added to hotend very simple setup and very fast
Great Vid. Does anyone know of any mounts and or instructions for this and the Formbot Raptor 2? Thanks.
wow awesome video. Loving the new Hemera! What do you think about part cooling with pressured air (with a external pump and a tube)?!
I would love to see a video on the topic!
I've been tossing the idea around
I wonder what the wear will be like on the stainless gear train. I'm sure they went with a grade that they could harden and it'll be fine because the forces are low, but you normally don't see stainless gears in industrial gear trains for a reason. In wash down required applications where stainless steel gears are often used, they normally require some form of lubrication to avoid work hardening and flaking.
I am going to have to get one, TPU @100mm/s has interesting possibilities. Phone Cases, Shoe insoles, etc, etc.
I recently have modded my ultimaker clone with a direct drive titan aero heatsink for $7+$11+$7 (complete hotend with pancake nema17 and silicon sock even;) of course, not original, but anyway. Hope it performs kool!
Looks like a beautiful all in one extruder, I plan to get one at some point, perhaps after we get a pancake motor. As a geared extruder it strikes me as a big miss to not have the smaller motor as default. Hopefully that will get resolved soon.
Hey Tom, have you had the chance to test a Bondtech lgx (with flexibles addon) yet? That seems like the best direct competitor. (Except of the pricetag) That would be great to see!
Is there any improvement to the nozzle swap, the mosquito makes this so convenient, though an expensive investment.
There are many 3d printed geared extruder options around and one thing that E3d never in my mind got right from the original gregs wade extruder was the harring bone gears. I personaly developed my own design using a GT2 belt and pulleys to drive the filament on my choice of drive gear either hobbed or pinion. Mechanicaly pinion gears have a "dead" space of play in them where their is movement but no output in the transmision harring bone gears fixed this problem and so does my belt driven setup. There is nothing worse than E3D changing their sizing of their threads just for the sake of doing so the difference would be so minimum IMO any way.
Anything compete with this yet? Looking to upgrade a few printers to be more reliable and this seems to be the best way
Also ich hab die Glocke nicht aktiviert und sehe trotzdem alle deine Videos in der Abobox ;)
How well does this extruder handle high-speed extrusion? For example, extruding 1.75mm filament through a 0.8mm or 1.0mm nozzle.
I just switch to bond Tech from the e3d Titan extruder and yeah bondtech stole the show. I'm running it on a Bowden system and can push flexibles all day. One day I might give this a try but for right now it's going to be hard to beat these bontech's I mean look E3d even took their design. It was a brilliant design that works.
Btw: That bell setting doesn't even do much anymore, people report getting no new notifications for channels they've enabled it on for weeks.
But looking on your subscription page instead just "Home" on youtube gives an overview over all your subscribed channels, that's-as of yet-still reliable. You won't miss new videos there.
I recently ripped apart my old Anet A8 printer, and i want to reuse some of the parts to make a whole new Prusa clone which is more safter, i may use this as my new hot end.
Edit: I just noticed the Anet A8 on the side, I really hope you do a tutorial on that so i know what to improve with my old Anet, if i can find a new board and new hotend/extruder, then ill be right as rain
Well Tom. Blowing air up away from the bed in that kind of a small space you actually creat a low pressure zone under the hotend which kinda doesnt help. the only way to get very little airflow around the print would be a long hose from and away from the cooling finns.
Tom can you give me information whats the difference between 12Volt Hemera and 24Volt
I’m hoping a CR-10 upgrade mount / duct comes out soon. I have a few BMG / v6 setups and while I feel bad E3D is going to eat their lunch...glad to see continued innovation and lower costs
Hey, we actually already have an upgrade mount for the CR10 available here - e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/Hemera+Creality+Ender+3+Upgrade./107?lang=en. It's the same as the Ender 3, we'll get the title amended to avoid confusion. Thanks, E3D
Got it.. the new E3D Hemeroid... Great name
wtf 😂
thanks for this. Gonna order for sure. Do you have a good E step setting?
Download the source for the Marlin Firmware from the video where he installs the Hermera on an Anet A8, it has the steps listed in it.
@@TheDasFaust thanks will do!
May I ask you to make a video on adjusting the z-steps on this extruder? Pretty please.
0:39 - E3D's documentation on the heatbreak says '... M6 thread to maintain compatibility with the E3D ecosystem. ' So i really think it will work with any M6 threaded heater block, not just the one it comes with.
you're right.
It can be used with V6, Volcano and SuperVolcano
Wow 🤩 looks good
I'd love to see longer version of the throat for the Anet A6 gang, then this would just be a drop-in upgrade for an already great smooth X carriage this printer has. It looks to be made almost as a drop-in upgrade for Anet extruders!
what should i use to make botom of support have a nice print , my print is Anet A8
Im keep wondering why didn't they used the pancake size motors
Im using those on titan w 2130 motor driver and gave 300 motor torqueing something unit
My only problem is that alot of us invested in pancake steppers to shed weight but then you throw at us a stepper that doesn't have a standard sized shaft. The wider it is the more print area you lose.
How would this mount on a Delta?
Printrbot had the dual drive extruder called the gearhead a year before your first video over the original bondtech.
you've upgraded your graphics, music, AND your sweatshirts.
How will it handle carbon fiber or other abrasive filaments?
I rang the bell for updates when the Hermes *ahem*, Hemera is back in stock
When you mention that a mirrored version may be coming, which component are you referring to and what does that mean?
It swaps which way you mount it if it's mirrored. Think left vs. right-hand side. It is nice to dual extruder setups for symmetry.
This does look like a great extruder. would love to get one of these one of these days.
does it require firmware update for gearing change r table etc?
the Hermera and the SKR 1.3 mini are the hotness.
Will this extruder work on a Sovol Sv-01?