Hey guys, sorry for not responding. Try this: Lift the rear end and put the truck in neutral- be careful to chock your front wheels. Remove the rubber access hole to the adjuster inside the drum. Turn the wheel by hand as you tighten that nut until it drags and stops the wheel from spinning freely. It should drag a bit but not feel seized. Now adjust the bell cranks and ebrake. I noticed that if the inner adjuster is not tight enough the bell crank adjustment will be off. Tightening the inner drum adjuster will change where the bell crank engages. Enjoy!
I had figured out how to adjust my bell crank to the E-brake adjuster in the drum when I replaced the shoes and drums, however I haven't used the E-brake in a couple years and it just failed inspection for a weak E-brake! It's because the adjuster hasn't been doing anything for me from lack of use! Good to know you have to actually use the E-brake time to time for it to self-adjust! Thanks!
I can't express how thankful I am for this video. Thank you so much. I have been trying to figure out my brakes for the past two weeks, reading all of the forum posts, the FSM, and was still scratching my head. This video finally helped me figure it out. I had no idea my brakes could work so well. Thanks for posting.
Bro. This is huge. I replaced all 4 corners on my 2006 4 years ago and always had a mushy pedal... in hindsite the bellcrank was never adjusted and all I did was tighten the cable. I also never put on ebrake since "it never works anyways". Got new shoes and bellcranks ordered to ensure proper adjustment and operation. So stoked haha
Thanks for the info. Just did rear drums, new shoes and cylinders Tight as hell to get the new drums on Still have issues with e brake engagement. Even though Bell crank is maxed out . I have heard additional adjustment is necessary after the drum is installed.This is done on rear where the brake hose connects. Below that is a small rubber seal, you remove the seal and can perform additional adjustment through the hole
I have a 2003 with 390,000, that i bought new and I have had brake problems for years with spongy pedal and definitely don't have the E brake set properly. Thanks for this video
lmao thanks that’s actually crazy i still learned something about the brakes and it’s been well over 10 years of working on this truck for my dad thanks a lot 😊
Thanks for making this video man. I had an 04 DC that had amazing brakes and I never understood why people complained about brakes until I got my 02. I’ll be following this procedure
thank you so much for sharing this knowledge. this is one of those videos that wont get many views, but the guys that need this info are so grateful for youtube and people like you sharing this kind of knowledge. thanks so much!
I had a brand new tundra in 2000 and yes I reported it with corporation early on. The problems were the brake caliper are shared with Tacoma unfortunately tundra is so damn heavy they warp badly. Toyota updated the brake calipers in sept 2003 but some still had issues. My gen 2.5 has been perfect
I think I did mine wrong after watching this video. I replaced the bell cranks and adjusted them in about the middle position so I had to extend both e-brake cables fully out. i plan to go back and fix this, thanks.
Thanks so much. Have been dealing with this problem for years and three trucks. Love these 1st Gen tundra. Now if someone will tell me how to fix the crappy mileage. 😊
Thanks for the video. When you say adjust the e brake line, is that just equalizing the length between both sides by moving the middle piece both lines are attached too? Also to summarize, disconnect e brake line, move back bell crank, adjust shoes, then adjust bell crank to 1mm gap. Repeat on driver side, then reattach e brake line and equalize length?
Correct, however the e brake self adjusts. You just need to tighten it. There are two locations to do this- one is at the pedal in the cab, the other is underneath the truck near the middle of the truck by the frame rail.
Awesome video. I did my rear brake about 4 months ago, when I put the drums back on it was tight, but I didn’t mess with the bell cranks. Can I adjust the bell cranks and e brake cable with the wheels and drums? Or do I need to remove the drums to adjust the shoes first?
You can adjust them with the drums on. Jack the rear axle up from the pumpkin and put the truck in neutral. Remove the rubber access port to the inner drum adjustment sprocket. Turn the sprocket until the shoes drag a bit when you spin the wheel/tire, but not so much it is difficult to spin the wheel. Then adjust the bellcrank throw. Do both sides, then adjust the E Brake tension. Your brakes will be awesome.
How are you guys adjusting the bell cranks to the "1mm" gap recommendation. With the springs still on the bell crank, the crank wants to push towards the backing plate of the tire. The manual says to pull back on the bell crank to set the "1mm" gap but in this video he isnt pulling back on it. And how do you know how far to pull back on it if that is what you have to do? Any help would be awesome. By the way, other than that confusion this video is a god send. Thanks for posting man, so much help!
Hey so on my 2005 tundra, whenever I hit my brakes it’s soft, soft, soft, then suddenly brakes very hard and is hard to brake smoothly. Does this sound related to your issue? I haven’t had the truck long but the previous owner did mention something about the truck goes through front brakes. I don’t have a regular brake booster I have a whole ridiculous hydraulic actuator setup that they only put on a select few cursed first gens. Just adding that in case it’s relevant.
@@Dorightby Nope still not really sure where to start. Do you have the electronic brake booster with the super sensitive traction control system? Where you can’t drift at all
I was having this issue as well and changed both rear drums at the shop but it was still not feeling good still felt mushy So you’re saying every time I park the truck I should be using the e brake ? So it can self adjust ?
I definitely need to adjust my E brake, and I also have a soft brake pedal. BUT I’m totally confused how those 2 things are related. I have an 06 Sequoia, and it has regular disc brakes in the back in addition to the cable actuated drum-style e brakes. Is this not the same as your tundra?
Hey guys, sorry for not responding.
Try this:
Lift the rear end and put the truck in neutral- be careful to chock your front wheels.
Remove the rubber access hole to the adjuster inside the drum. Turn the wheel by hand as you tighten that nut until it drags and stops the wheel from spinning freely. It should drag a bit but not feel seized.
Now adjust the bell cranks and ebrake.
I noticed that if the inner adjuster is not tight enough the bell crank adjustment will be off. Tightening the inner drum adjuster will change where the bell crank engages.
Enjoy!
I had figured out how to adjust my bell crank to the E-brake adjuster in the drum when I replaced the shoes and drums, however I haven't used the E-brake in a couple years and it just failed inspection for a weak E-brake! It's because the adjuster hasn't been doing anything for me from lack of use! Good to know you have to actually use the E-brake time to time for it to self-adjust! Thanks!
I can't express how thankful I am for this video. Thank you so much. I have been trying to figure out my brakes for the past two weeks, reading all of the forum posts, the FSM, and was still scratching my head. This video finally helped me figure it out. I had no idea my brakes could work so well. Thanks for posting.
Bro. This is huge. I replaced all 4 corners on my 2006 4 years ago and always had a mushy pedal... in hindsite the bellcrank was never adjusted and all I did was tighten the cable. I also never put on ebrake since "it never works anyways". Got new shoes and bellcranks ordered to ensure proper adjustment and operation. So stoked haha
Thanks for the info. Just did rear drums, new shoes and cylinders
Tight as hell to get the new drums on
Still have issues with e brake engagement. Even though Bell crank is maxed out . I have heard additional adjustment is necessary after the drum is installed.This is done on rear where the brake hose connects. Below that is a small rubber seal, you remove the seal and can perform additional adjustment through the hole
I have a 2003 with 390,000, that i bought new and I have had brake problems for years with spongy pedal and definitely don't have the E brake set properly. Thanks for this video
lmao thanks that’s actually crazy i still learned something about the brakes and it’s been well over 10 years of working on this truck for my dad thanks a lot 😊
Thanks for making this video man. I had an 04 DC that had amazing brakes and I never understood why people complained about brakes until I got my 02. I’ll be following this procedure
thank you so much for sharing this knowledge. this is one of those videos that wont get many views, but the guys that need this info are so grateful for youtube and people like you sharing this kind of knowledge. thanks so much!
Dude... I did a complete front brake job and bled the brakes multiple times. New master cylinder too. Thanks for the heads up... this sounds relevant.
I had a brand new tundra in 2000 and yes I reported it with corporation early on. The problems were the brake caliper are shared with Tacoma unfortunately tundra is so damn heavy they warp badly. Toyota updated the brake calipers in sept 2003 but some still had issues. My gen 2.5 has been perfect
Thank you so much for this video! Couldn't figure out why it was using mainly the front brakes
I think I did mine wrong after watching this video. I replaced the bell cranks and adjusted them in about the middle position so I had to extend both e-brake cables fully out. i plan to go back and fix this, thanks.
Thanks for the informative vid. my rear bumper is warped like yours but way worse. it is scratching the tailgate on one side pretty bad
Thank you for the info. Much needed. Will be working on the rear brakes in the next few weekends.
Great info. Thanks for sharing this.
Worked like a charm! Super awesome video, thanks for compiling all the knowledge!
Thanks so much. Have been dealing with this problem for years and three trucks. Love these 1st Gen tundra. Now if someone will tell me how to fix the crappy mileage. 😊
Get a tune
thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the video. When you say adjust the e brake line, is that just equalizing the length between both sides by moving the middle piece both lines are attached too?
Also to summarize, disconnect e brake line, move back bell crank, adjust shoes, then adjust bell crank to 1mm gap. Repeat on driver side, then reattach e brake line and equalize length?
Correct, however the e brake self adjusts. You just need to tighten it. There are two locations to do this- one is at the pedal in the cab, the other is underneath the truck near the middle of the truck by the frame rail.
Omg you nailed it! Shitty brakes for sure, but this makes sense. Big thank you sir!!
I have been throwing the whole kitchen sink at this brake job!
You’re a saint.
Awesome video. I did my rear brake about 4 months ago, when I put the drums back on it was tight, but I didn’t mess with the bell cranks. Can I adjust the bell cranks and e brake cable with the wheels and drums? Or do I need to remove the drums to adjust the shoes first?
You can adjust them with the drums on. Jack the rear axle up from the pumpkin and put the truck in neutral. Remove the rubber access port to the inner drum adjustment sprocket. Turn the sprocket until the shoes drag a bit when you spin the wheel/tire, but not so much it is difficult to spin the wheel. Then adjust the bellcrank throw. Do both sides, then adjust the E Brake tension. Your brakes will be awesome.
@ just did the job yesterday, huge night and day difference, thanks man!
How are you guys adjusting the bell cranks to the "1mm" gap recommendation. With the springs still on the bell crank, the crank wants to push towards the backing plate of the tire.
The manual says to pull back on the bell crank to set the "1mm" gap but in this video he isnt pulling back on it. And how do you know how far to pull back on it if that is what you have to do? Any help would be awesome.
By the way, other than that confusion this video is a god send. Thanks for posting man, so much help!
Have the same question? How did you solve it?
Hey so on my 2005 tundra, whenever I hit my brakes it’s soft, soft, soft, then suddenly brakes very hard and is hard to brake smoothly. Does this sound related to your issue? I haven’t had the truck long but the previous owner did mention something about the truck goes through front brakes.
I don’t have a regular brake booster I have a whole ridiculous hydraulic actuator setup that they only put on a select few cursed first gens. Just adding that in case it’s relevant.
Same with me. Did you solve your issue?
@@Dorightby Nope still not really sure where to start. Do you have the electronic brake booster with the super sensitive traction control system? Where you can’t drift at all
You are a life saver!!!
I was having this issue as well and changed both rear drums at the shop but it was still not feeling good still felt mushy
So you’re saying every time I park the truck I should be using the e brake ? So it can self adjust ?
My first Tundra brake job took me damn near 2 weeks to figure that out😂
I definitely need to adjust my E brake, and I also have a soft brake pedal. BUT I’m totally confused how those 2 things are related. I have an 06 Sequoia, and it has regular disc brakes in the back in addition to the cable actuated drum-style e brakes. Is this not the same as your tundra?
No, the first tundra only has rear drums and the brake lines (fluid) are connected to the front (right front and right rear) share a circuit.
@@matthewhoffer5116 ahhh, thanks for the clarification! I thought they were the same.
Great video thanks!!!!!
What if my E-brake doesn’t work at all? It don’t thinks it’s even connected.
Could just be super out of adjustment. Mine didn’t work at all either but I did this method then tensioned the cable and it works beautifully now
2:30
Do the Lexus gx460 brake upgrade, huge difference.
Definitely not necessary if the brakes are adjusted properly.
The moral of the story is USE your E-brake. I have owned my 2001 for 14 years….. no problem
E brake, wtf is an E brake
3:20