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Thanks for the video. When you say adjust the e brake line, is that just equalizing the length between both sides by moving the middle piece both lines are attached too? Also to summarize, disconnect e brake line, move back bell crank, adjust shoes, then adjust bell crank to 1mm gap. Repeat on driver side, then reattach e brake line and equalize length?

Awesome video. I did my rear brake about 4 months ago, when I put the drums back on it was tight, but I didn’t mess with the bell cranks. Can I adjust the bell cranks and e brake cable with the wheels and drums? Or do I need to remove the drums to adjust the shoes first?

thank you so much for sharing this knowledge. this is one of those videos that wont get many views, but the guys that need this info are so grateful for youtube and people like you sharing this kind of knowledge. thanks so much!

Great video thanks!!!!!

E brake, wtf is an E brake

I definitely need to adjust my E brake, and I also have a soft brake pedal. BUT I’m totally confused how those 2 things are related. I have an 06 Sequoia, and it has regular disc brakes in the back in addition to the cable actuated drum-style e brakes. Is this not the same as your tundra?

Hey guys, sorry for not responding. Try this: Lift the rear end and put the truck in neutral- be careful to chock your front wheels. Remove the rubber access hole to the adjuster inside the drum. Turn the wheel by hand as you tighten that nut until it drags and stops the wheel from spinning freely. It should drag a bit but not feel seized. Now adjust the bell cranks and ebrake. I noticed that if the inner adjuster is not tight enough the bell crank adjustment will be off. Tightening the inner drum adjuster will change where the bell crank engages. Enjoy!

You’re a saint.

Really help info thanks. I'm just coming over to this binding now (southern winter), from a lifetime on 75mm. I liked the video location, style and format. Great stuff, cheers Andy.

Dude... I did a complete front brake job and bled the brakes multiple times. New master cylinder too. Thanks for the heads up... this sounds relevant.

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Hey...thanks so MUCH! I needed this info very much...May Gook Luck be yours!

The moral of the story is USE your E-brake. I have owned my 2001 for 14 years….. no problem

Thank you so much for this video! Couldn't figure out why it was using mainly the front brakes

How are you guys adjusting the bell cranks to the "1mm" gap recommendation. With the springs still on the bell crank, the crank wants to push towards the backing plate of the tire. The manual says to pull back on the bell crank to set the "1mm" gap but in this video he isnt pulling back on it. And how do you know how far to pull back on it if that is what you have to do? Any help would be awesome. By the way, other than that confusion this video is a god send. Thanks for posting man, so much help!

I was having this issue as well and changed both rear drums at the shop but it was still not feeling good still felt mushy So you’re saying every time I park the truck I should be using the e brake ? So it can self adjust ?

You are a life saver!!!

Bro. This is huge. I replaced all 4 corners on my 2006 4 years ago and always had a mushy pedal... in hindsite the bellcrank was never adjusted and all I did was tighten the cable. I also never put on ebrake since "it never works anyways". Got new shoes and bellcranks ordered to ensure proper adjustment and operation. So stoked haha

Thank you for the info. Much needed. Will be working on the rear brakes in the next few weekends.

Thanks for making this video man. I had an 04 DC that had amazing brakes and I never understood why people complained about brakes until I got my 02. I’ll be following this procedure

Worked like a charm! Super awesome video, thanks for compiling all the knowledge!

Do the Lexus gx460 brake upgrade, huge difference.

My first Tundra brake job took me damn near 2 weeks to figure that out😂

What if my E-brake doesn’t work at all? It don’t thinks it’s even connected.

Thanks for the info. Just did rear drums, new shoes and cylinders Tight as hell to get the new drums on Still have issues with e brake engagement. Even though Bell crank is maxed out . I have heard additional adjustment is necessary after the drum is installed.This is done on rear where the brake hose connects. Below that is a small rubber seal, you remove the seal and can perform additional adjustment through the hole

Perfect vid that gave me exactly the low-down on the Meidjo I was looking for, and then some. Great tips. From another East-coaster who started out in the daks with xc skis and snowshoes, Thank You Brother!!

lmao thanks that’s actually crazy i still learned something about the brakes and it’s been well over 10 years of working on this truck for my dad thanks a lot 😊

Omg you nailed it! Shitty brakes for sure, but this makes sense. Big thank you sir!!

Thanks for the informative vid. my rear bumper is warped like yours but way worse. it is scratching the tailgate on one side pretty bad

I have a 2003 with 390,000, that i bought new and I have had brake problems for years with spongy pedal and definitely don't have the E brake set properly. Thanks for this video

I can't express how thankful I am for this video. Thank you so much. I have been trying to figure out my brakes for the past two weeks, reading all of the forum posts, the FSM, and was still scratching my head. This video finally helped me figure it out. I had no idea my brakes could work so well. Thanks for posting.

Thanks so much. Have been dealing with this problem for years and three trucks. Love these 1st Gen tundra. Now if someone will tell me how to fix the crappy mileage. 😊

I think I did mine wrong after watching this video. I replaced the bell cranks and adjusted them in about the middle position so I had to extend both e-brake cables fully out. i plan to go back and fix this, thanks.

Hey so on my 2005 tundra, whenever I hit my brakes it’s soft, soft, soft, then suddenly brakes very hard and is hard to brake smoothly. Does this sound related to your issue? I haven’t had the truck long but the previous owner did mention something about the truck goes through front brakes. I don’t have a regular brake booster I have a whole ridiculous hydraulic actuator setup that they only put on a select few cursed first gens. Just adding that in case it’s relevant.

Great video. Your dog is adorable. I appreciate the thoughtful long-form commentary and thank you for using a tripod!. I'm one of those "old dudes" but not an antique gear bigot. I stopped upgrading about 15 years ago and up until then tried every releasable system available. At that time, only 2 setups were DIN rated (7TM and Rotafella TRP plates). The OG Rotafella and G3 3-pins would "release" by ripping the toes ;-) I tried binding plates (Vole, then later Rotafella TRP's), the ill-fated Sky-Hoy bindings. Finally settled on DIN-rated 7TM free-pivot bindings and never had a problem. I also never had a problem with boot-flex using (now ancient) Scarpa T3's but I've nothing contemporary to compare it to. It's great to see the sport evolve. I finally gave up on tele gear mostly because with my family we were resort skiing and I was tired of the extra time necessary to engage the heels (no step-in convenience). The Meidjo setup looks mechanically sound but IMO they should work on convenience and how do deal with snow loading -- it seems like a very cumbersome, inconvenient setup (no free lunch). Cheers.

Thanks for posting this. Was going to take my son down it and it was very helpful for him to see the run before committing.

Great video! Appreciate the tips on ice. I’ve got the Meidjo 3.0 and I love them. Smooth transition coming over from 75mm. And the releasability is good peace of mind.

Thank you so much for posting this: exactly what I needed to see as I lay in bed here on week 3 with a shattered tib & fib. Not the whole story but major factor was hammerhead didn’t release. It kind of broke my heart to think I’d never tele again but I’ll never ski anything without release and alpine just doesn’t do it for me.

Great vid - thanks so much!

Greeat video! What was the locktite you used for plastic?

Have you released out of Meidjo? All my stuff is inserted for 22D and the mounting pattern on M is prolific! I’ll prob have to reinvest in new skis to make it happen, but a reliable release would be worth it I think. Great vid, love your style

Fellow weirdo here! Agree, NTN-tech is the bomb. I've been skiing the Lynx hard since the first gen. I had two issues in the 1st & 2nd seasons: broken cam stops, and tech-toe pivot pins backing out. 22D fixed both issues promptly at no cost. Haven't had any issues since. The Lynx isn't releasable that I know of, especially as I ski with the tech-toes locked. I guess I've never had an instance where I wish they'd released. I'd like to try the Meidjo someday for comparison though. Totally with you on staying current with the latest Tele "tech" (double meaning there). I don't understand why some people still cling to 75mm. I guess they haven't given NTN-tech a fair shot. It's well worth the upgrade. Now if we can just get some lighter boots. Scarpa makes a great boot with the Tx Pro/Tx Comp, but they are pigs in the skintrack. They just need a lighter backcountry model too, or simply lightweight the TX Pro to distinguish it more from the Comp.

Great bindings. Just don't use crispi boots- the tech toe inserts just rip out. I have broken two pairs . Go for the scarpa boots

GREAT video appreciate the info, I’ve got a pair of Meijo 3.2 and love them but just took a digger on a pair of Freerides that didn’t release (ouch!) so gonna experiment r more. Keep the videos coming (ps love Confluence, thanks for plugging the locals)

Cool video!! Keep ‘em coming

I’m named Doug too. Nice vid, I’m still on T2 and Switchbacks, just fine except doesn’t release. !

Thanks for the video!