Hey Matt love your vids sir!. The cam "lube" you showed and the session music used to accompany it was HILARIOUS! Brought back memories of my younger days in the 70's from the drive in! LOL!! You appear to have many years experience in this area! Keep up the great vids Matt and cannot wait until work on the firebird resumes.
Second, I’m a HUGE fan. I have a 2004 Tahoe myself and I use your videos to help me all the time. Thank you!! I’m going to be doing the 2007 brake conversion and the E fans soon!!
Your the reason I really got into mechanics and working on my truck to learn more ! The first thing I did was an intake then dropping the transmission! Keep up the videos on both cars ! 🔥
Fantastic work! I am impressed with the wear on this motor. I have a 2005 Tahoe with 206000 and still going strong! Makes me feel better about the miles. Keep up the great work!!
Mine had 300k no knocks, ticks, smoking, etc. my dumbass replaced the oil pressure sensor blind with the intake still on, and didn’t see there was an old washer or part of something that didn’t let me seat the new one properly. Lost all oil on a long drive, never noticed low pressure until it was too late.
If anyone is in need of a really good torque wrench, that Quinn he is using is superb for the price. It’s extremely accurate directly competing with Snap On at a fraction of the price. I looked up torque test videos that compared a bunch of different brands and the Quinn was on par, in terms of accuracy, with Snap On. Highly highly recommend.
Truck Norris is the answer, if you haven't already replace the left valvecover with the updated 1 from gm or dorman, felpro permadry gaskets/seals. New pushrods and trunnion upgraded rockers please. LS7 Lifters as well with the ties between them, new lifter trays. FYI its not piston slap you are getting the pistons are cam ground so they will seat better when hot. It is done in Aviation. While in there put in a HV HP Melling oil pump, make sure to use 2 .002" feeler gauges as a shim. Replace the cam thrust plate, the Oil pressure sensor with a angle adapter, use a brass sensor if you can find 1. No black paint but orange or red or a lighter blue. I had Mobil 1, and I went right back to Valvoline after Mobil1 caused lifte tick. I would have put a new balancer on the engine too. Fyi the old oil pickup tube o ring cause lifter tick because it doesn't maintain proper vacuum, it's why it gets replaced
Great video, they do make a kit for aligning both the front and rear covers that has 2 of those spacers you install in place of the seals so you install the seals afterward, and a straight edge that you bolt down on the oil pan rail so you can draw them down completely flush. There's only one of those since its the same bolt pattern front and rear, works a treat if you are going to do several on the stand although the oil pan usually works fine it does take the variable of the gasket out of the consideration. I have seen several of these where the oil pressure goes away and the only plausable culprit is the o-ring on the pick up tube. Honestly I also question when people say they nicked or squished it on install unless they are trying to do the 5 hr oil pump change with a fishing line and hemostats while standing on their head just to avoid dropping the pan. I swear even on the 3/4 ton 4wd its faster and easier to drop the diff down and pull the pan than mess with that. I think the OEM torque spec on the stock crank bolt is done with a minimal base torque and an angle gauge but straight torque like you did will get you good results.
The Oil Galley Barbell in your LS based engine is something that is over looked. And yet it serves a very important mission of directing oil to the oil filter. If oil leaks past the Barbell it will go unfiltered directly to the Cam Bearing, Lifters, Crank and Rod Bearings. *Just an FYI to everyone watching the vid. No hating, just from every other vid I've seen, it's cheap insurance. Excerpt taken from LS1TECH Saccitycorvette*
I got on my 350k+ high miles 5.3L and she smokes and is sluggish under hard acceleration. Gonna rebuild in future, but she runs fine when driving easy. Gonna baby it for a while.
Man I love your rock and metal intros, as much as all the details you give while working on your rides. Not a Chevy guy here, more like a Ford one, but I found your content so much awesome. It's inspiring to see that someone actually is putting some love into a high mileage car instead of dumping it on some dealer or junkyard to get a new ride which might have some new features (=issues imho). Can't wait to see wht's comin' for Tahiti and your blue rides.
The music during the cam install got you a sub.. My kinda mechanic.. some emery cloth would knock the edge off that crank scratch.. and, haven’t finished the vid, but I’ve seen garage rebuilds use a wiz brush to clean off the pistons
I personally wouldve pulled 2 main caps and checked for bearing wear having gone that far into it especially at 250k. One definitive way to tell if the crankshaft is riding low in the block is the torque converter support bushing inside the pump housing. I wouldve definitely changed out the oil barbell for a double o-ringed one too.
I know if I pull them I'll want to replace them. Then that leads to cam bearings because they had some wear, and when the pistons are out for the main bearings I'll be wanting to re-ring and hone it. She's a solid runner so I decided just to leave it alone. Plus when I decide to really turn the boost up it'll need a built motor anyway so might as well see how far she can continue to go!
I had those random worn pushrods on a 6.0 I just tore down . I'm gonna replace all the pushrods and the couple of worn rockers and do a bronze trunnion
Watchin that cam install reminded me of when u greased your steering shaft and u plunged it in and out from inside the bay and u blurred it out. That cracked me up!!
My 02 Avy has 386k Miles. I use to daily it 100 miles/6 days/week. But the 3/4 gears gave out and I just drove it around town for a year until I rebuilt with beefier parts. I’d daily it again if it wasn’t for 13.5/mpg b/c of the 35’s.
Just wondering the logic of not doing a full rebuild when you’ve got the engine torn down so far. It’s been a while since I’ve done this kind of work but I did a 454 that I pulled from a bone yard for my Camaro and a 350 Buick and sent the blocks in for boiling and re-decking. Of course new rod bearings, rings and cam/crank bearings. Your engine has 250K on it. Seems like it might benefit from a similar approach, especially since you plan to turbo charge it. That being said, I have an 03 Suburban with 325K on it and it’s still pretty strong. Maybe GM built that 5.3 better than those older V8s from the 70’s. Love your content! Can’t wait to see Tahiti running again.
Resealing and cam while leaving the rotating assembly stock is what a lot of folks do. Always hard to know what point to stop, but that one works out most of the time. Depends on how much money and time you have! 🤞
It's an LS, generally no need to fool around with the bottom end. I'm 56 and felt the same way as you when I first started looking at an LS swap but it seems GM got the rotating assembly right on these.
damn im pulling my lm7 to cam and refresh this weekend. went to look for the next vid thinking this was done 5+ years ago and didnt realize this was recent. didnt know people are still doing simple ls refresh vids anymore lol my buddy just got similar avalanche to mine and came from diesels. hes surprised how cheap it is to build ls's. im about ot take him down a rabbit hole.
Excellent video Matt love the detail excellent job on that turbo drain line fitting. It looks like that's a must have rear main seal alignment tool you have there very interesting. 🏁😎🏁
That's crazy that you were able to get those manifold bolts out. Where I live all you have to do is look at them wrong and they snap, or they've been snapped from rust and the weight of the manifold and you have a big manifold leak
run a little atf in the oil. it will clean the inside of the engine like crazy. when i had my suburban's 6.0 apart it looked like it had 50k miles. it is at 240k
Nice Job, those engines without the DoD last a long time with maintenance. Just wondering if you used the centering tool off camera on the crank for the timing cover. I replaced the oil pump on my Van, along with a collapsed lifter , wiped cam , etc and noticed it was not centered from factory and had a slight gap where oil was seeping out. Always had an annoying drip of oil here and there now it's finally gone. 2007 Chevrolet 2500 4.8 Liter Van 157,000 miles 2007 GMC Denali 6.2 Liter 222,000 Untouched
I have built engines for people over the last 40 years and several times when they did not want to change the rod and main bearings on high mileage engines they did not last. Also when putting a set of fresh heads the engine it will start pulling oil by the rings. I always change all the bearings and hone the cylinders with new rings on a block like you are building when it is pulled apart that far. . Start out fresh I am a retired master certified mechanic
Sometimes greases dont pass through the oil galleys, so use engine oil or engine assembly lube, not grease. I would have used a LS1 chain and not a LS2 Chain.
I just got an 02 5.3 for my 67 Impala. Waiting for a rebuild. Got it blown apart rn. What would you recommend for a stockish N/A build for just street cruising and of course, some burnouts 😉
I wonder what my '03 5.3 is going to look like when I break it down after 545,000 miles. Just smokes a little on start up. I've been told I won't have to gap the rings for the turbo. 🤔
If it was me I'd at least change bearings in bottom well plus rings to but just me..I have ls in my Cadillac escalade 2003 ,has 300k on it.but love video man I have lot think about when I do mine.
I know I'm late to the party. Can you pull this engine out without discharging the AC? I have a 2004 Yukon w/185k miles. Just got it and It has a bottom end knock/tick. Pretty sure the owner loaded the oil with some type of thickener. Knock started the day after I paid cash for it. Debating pulling the engine and grabbing a reman or junkyard ebay motor. Later on I would be rebuilding the pulled engine with upgrades to put back in a later date. Thanks for any replies.
What can I do to fix piston slap I put on 03 in my 01 Yukon an I noticed when I start the truck in the morning it does that idk if you guys have any tips on fixing this thanks
Yo my man wanted to ask I wanna build my Tahoe as well it’s a 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.3 flex fuel I’m looking at cams but i don’t know if there is a difference between flex fuel and non flex fuel ?
Is the oil drain for the turbo in the front of the oil pan the typical spot? I assume it is cause Matt is pretty experienced, but damn that seems inconvenient to me.
Hey Matt got a quick question for a 00 Chevy suburban ls 5.3 platform I have. I want to get more power out of it and I'm just at 210k. Runs great no issues and want to know what else should I upgrade or go with if I'm not doing a turbo setup rn? I may do one down the road in the future but for budget and getting better performance and stuff like that what else should I replace? Trying to get things planned out for next summer getting both transmission and engine rebuilt plus maybe a refresh in the transfer case. Rear end is new with only 98k miles now. I got it with 90k.
I’ve been thinking about increasing power on my 2011 LC9 suburban. I tow and use the vehicle for road trips (not my daily driver). My idea lately has been swapping in a 6.2L L9H. Have you considered this?
I figured at 250k they should be pretty opened up by now. a21bravo did a video where he pulled a stock 200k lq4 apart and the untouched ring gaps were already at .026-.030
@@lsxmatt oh ok. I’ve just seen a lot of people do it that way. I got to say watching your Tahoe videos have been really inspiring me to fix up my Tahoe. Mine is a 2001 2wd. I got it for free. It needs paint and a transmission rebuilt
Good video, Matt. I don't know if you've seen these before but Melling put out two really great videos if you are not shimming the pump. One to center it; th-cam.com/video/zzz6NkXTq24/w-d-xo.html and one to prefill it if you don't pressure lube it; th-cam.com/video/539ClWWJMl8/w-d-xo.html
Pewter tahoe gang love the build bro im geting ready to build a cammed 10.8 to 1 comp 6.0 for my 03 but I'm torn cause Mines show room new like 54k my grandpa ordered it fully loaded with some custom dealer options do I keep it stock or make it fun cause she's a garage queen unless it's nice out
Oooooo, Tihiti be gettin' a little bit of love now. That's encouraging to see cross-hatching in the cylinders still at 250K.
Hey Matt love your vids sir!. The cam "lube" you showed and the session music used to accompany it was HILARIOUS! Brought back memories of my younger days in the 70's from the drive in! LOL!! You appear to have many years experience in this area!
Keep up the great vids Matt and cannot wait until work on the firebird resumes.
Yo when he said that at 16:12 is definitely crazy, i think he wanted it in peoples eyes
Anndddd 16:44 is even more crazy
Second, I’m a HUGE fan. I have a 2004 Tahoe myself and I use your videos to help me all the time. Thank you!! I’m going to be doing the 2007 brake conversion and the E fans soon!!
Before you order your parts, look into swapping 2019+ brakes on there. If you have 20" wheels, it's a better upgrade than the '07 brakes.
Your the reason I really got into mechanics and working on my truck to learn more ! The first thing I did was an intake then dropping the transmission! Keep up the videos on both cars ! 🔥
Fantastic work! I am impressed with the wear on this motor. I have a 2005 Tahoe with 206000 and still going strong! Makes me feel better about the miles. Keep up the great work!!
Mine had 300k no knocks, ticks, smoking, etc. my dumbass replaced the oil pressure sensor blind with the intake still on, and didn’t see there was an old washer or part of something that didn’t let me seat the new one properly. Lost all oil on a long drive, never noticed low pressure until it was too late.
@@Whitebassonly Man I hate that for you. Mistakes happen and we can all learn from each other.
If anyone is in need of a really good torque wrench, that Quinn he is using is superb for the price. It’s extremely accurate directly competing with Snap On at a fraction of the price. I looked up torque test videos that compared a bunch of different brands and the Quinn was on par, in terms of accuracy, with Snap On. Highly highly recommend.
Truck Norris is the answer, if you haven't already replace the left valvecover with the updated 1 from gm or dorman, felpro permadry gaskets/seals. New pushrods and trunnion upgraded rockers please. LS7 Lifters as well with the ties between them, new lifter trays.
FYI its not piston slap you are getting the pistons are cam ground so they will seat better when hot. It is done in Aviation. While in there put in a HV HP Melling oil pump, make sure to use 2 .002" feeler gauges as a shim. Replace the cam thrust plate, the Oil pressure sensor with a angle adapter, use a brass sensor if you can find 1. No black paint but orange or red or a lighter blue.
I had Mobil 1, and I went right back to Valvoline after Mobil1 caused lifte tick.
I would have put a new balancer on the engine too.
Fyi the old oil pickup tube o ring cause lifter tick because it doesn't maintain proper vacuum, it's why it gets replaced
Great video, they do make a kit for aligning both the front and rear covers that has 2 of those spacers you install in place of the seals so you install the seals afterward, and a straight edge that you bolt down on the oil pan rail so you can draw them down completely flush. There's only one of those since its the same bolt pattern front and rear, works a treat if you are going to do several on the stand although the oil pan usually works fine it does take the variable of the gasket out of the consideration. I have seen several of these where the oil pressure goes away and the only plausable culprit is the o-ring on the pick up tube. Honestly I also question when people say they nicked or squished it on install unless they are trying to do the 5 hr oil pump change with a fishing line and hemostats while standing on their head just to avoid dropping the pan. I swear even on the 3/4 ton 4wd its faster and easier to drop the diff down and pull the pan than mess with that. I think the OEM torque spec on the stock crank bolt is done with a minimal base torque and an angle gauge but straight torque like you did will get you good results.
The Oil Galley Barbell in your LS based engine is something that is over looked. And yet it serves a very important mission of directing oil to the oil filter. If oil leaks past the Barbell it will go unfiltered directly to the Cam Bearing, Lifters, Crank and Rod Bearings. *Just an FYI to everyone watching the vid. No hating, just from every other vid I've seen, it's cheap insurance. Excerpt taken from LS1TECH Saccitycorvette*
I got on my 350k+ high miles 5.3L and she smokes and is sluggish under hard acceleration. Gonna rebuild in future, but she runs fine when driving easy. Gonna baby it for a while.
Thanks for the great video, Matt. My Tahoe is at 185,000. Runs great but oil pressure starting to fluctuate....o-ring time. Dave in Omaha
Saw that coolant pour into the oil pan and thought it was a genius move
I also thought this.
Timestamp?
@@5.43vjust look for it🤦♂️
@@5.43v 6:00
Yup, I was impressed with the pro move to catch the coolant! Then he says "Happy accident" and LOL. Well we can all learn from that one! 🤣👍
I about died when installing the cam and the music started. !!!
This is the perfect engine tear down ASMR video. Thank you for going step by step of the breakdown. I can’t wait to see how Tahiti will run after
Man I love your rock and metal intros, as much as all the details you give while working on your rides. Not a Chevy guy here, more like a Ford one, but I found your content so much awesome. It's inspiring to see that someone actually is putting some love into a high mileage car instead of dumping it on some dealer or junkyard to get a new ride which might have some new features (=issues imho). Can't wait to see wht's comin' for Tahiti and your blue rides.
You got me with the music and cam massage…
Awesome video sensei. I’m taking notes!
The music during the cam install got you a sub.. My kinda mechanic.. some emery cloth would knock the edge off that crank scratch.. and, haven’t finished the vid, but I’ve seen garage rebuilds use a wiz brush to clean off the pistons
I personally wouldve pulled 2 main caps and checked for bearing wear having gone that far into it especially at 250k. One definitive way to tell if the crankshaft is riding low in the block is the torque converter support bushing inside the pump housing. I wouldve definitely changed out the oil barbell for a double o-ringed one too.
I know if I pull them I'll want to replace them. Then that leads to cam bearings because they had some wear, and when the pistons are out for the main bearings I'll be wanting to re-ring and hone it. She's a solid runner so I decided just to leave it alone. Plus when I decide to really turn the boost up it'll need a built motor anyway so might as well see how far she can continue to go!
I had those random worn pushrods on a 6.0 I just tore down . I'm gonna replace all the pushrods and the couple of worn rockers and do a bronze trunnion
Watchin that cam install reminded me of when u greased your steering shaft and u plunged it in and out from inside the bay and u blurred it out. That cracked me up!!
My 02 Avy has 386k Miles. I use to daily it 100 miles/6 days/week.
But the 3/4 gears gave out and I just drove it around town for a year until I rebuilt with beefier parts. I’d daily it again if it wasn’t for 13.5/mpg b/c of the 35’s.
Just wondering the logic of not doing a full rebuild when you’ve got the engine torn down so far. It’s been a while since I’ve done this kind of work but I did a 454 that I pulled from a bone yard for my Camaro and a 350 Buick and sent the blocks in for boiling and re-decking. Of course new rod bearings, rings and cam/crank bearings. Your engine has 250K on it. Seems like it might benefit from a similar approach, especially since you plan to turbo charge it. That being said, I have an 03 Suburban with 325K on it and it’s still pretty strong. Maybe GM built that 5.3 better than those older V8s from the 70’s. Love your content! Can’t wait to see Tahiti running again.
Resealing and cam while leaving the rotating assembly stock is what a lot of folks do. Always hard to know what point to stop, but that one works out most of the time. Depends on how much money and time you have! 🤞
It's an LS, generally no need to fool around with the bottom end. I'm 56 and felt the same way as you when I first started looking at an LS swap but it seems GM got the rotating assembly right on these.
damn im pulling my lm7 to cam and refresh this weekend. went to look for the next vid thinking this was done 5+ years ago and didnt realize this was recent. didnt know people are still doing simple ls refresh vids anymore lol my buddy just got similar avalanche to mine and came from diesels. hes surprised how cheap it is to build ls's. im about ot take him down a rabbit hole.
Excellent video Matt love the detail excellent job on that turbo drain line fitting. It looks like that's a must have rear main seal alignment tool you have there very interesting. 🏁😎🏁
Dude. I lost it when the music started when you lubed up the cam! Lmao
That's crazy that you were able to get those manifold bolts out. Where I live all you have to do is look at them wrong and they snap, or they've been snapped from rust and the weight of the manifold and you have a big manifold leak
A few are snapped but they were like that already. The machine shop doing my heads have some titanium manifold bolts that I’m gonna try out.
@@lsxmatt looking forward to seeing how that works out. Hopefully no issues with dissimilar metals corroding.
4:20 Must be nice my ‘01 makes all the valve train noise on #2 but ZERO piston slap ever, just a nice little Tik tik on cold starts
Heeeeeeesss Back! "Brought back by popular demand" Sit back and enjoy, smoke em if ya got em.
run a little atf in the oil. it will clean the inside of the engine like crazy. when i had my suburban's 6.0 apart it looked like it had 50k miles. it is at 240k
Nice Job, those engines without the DoD last a long time with maintenance.
Just wondering if you used the centering tool off camera on the crank for the timing cover. I replaced the oil pump on my Van, along with a collapsed lifter , wiped cam , etc and noticed it was not centered from factory and had a slight gap where oil was seeping out.
Always had an annoying drip of oil here and there now it's finally gone.
2007 Chevrolet 2500 4.8 Liter Van 157,000 miles
2007 GMC Denali 6.2 Liter
222,000
Untouched
I have built engines for people over the last 40 years and several times when they did not want to change the rod and main bearings on high mileage engines they did not last. Also when putting a set of fresh heads the engine it will start pulling oil by the rings. I always change all the bearings and hone the cylinders with new rings on a block like you are building when it is pulled apart that far. . Start out fresh I am a retired master certified mechanic
Sometimes greases dont pass through the oil galleys, so use engine oil or engine assembly lube, not grease.
I would have used a LS1 chain and not a LS2 Chain.
Shouldn't you also checkpiston 1 is completely up when setting timing?
I’m Always excited to see the videos. I have a 2002 tahoe z71 that im also fixing little by little
This is going to be so sweet can wait to hear her start up for the first time
I just got an 02 5.3 for my 67 Impala. Waiting for a rebuild. Got it blown apart rn. What would you recommend for a stockish N/A build for just street cruising and of course, some burnouts 😉
Ok I know I’m not trippen. But didn’t you put better sway bars on Tahiti? I was looking for the part numbers. Would like to improve them.
Do you prefer the mellings pump over a ACDelco or Genuine GM pump?
LsxMatt do you take everything apart yourself or do you have someone helping you behind the scenes. That's a lot of work to do on your own. 😁👍
He's a mechanic. Shits simple for him.
I wonder what my '03 5.3 is going to look like when I break it down after 545,000 miles. Just smokes a little on start up. I've been told I won't have to gap the rings for the turbo. 🤔
You have to gap the rings because they will be hotter expanding more and will cause problems without adding extra gap
I only like tahini videos . That's why I'm here and re subscribed.
Yo, I subscribed just for the cam lube music! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I need one of those wrench
Crusty at 250,000 miles. 😂.
My 02’ is rolling out 100 mile trips everyday at 396,000 miles and counting.
Do you think Tahiti will be finished before you get Ny snow? I’m anxious to see this build finished
If it was me I'd at least change bearings in bottom well plus rings to but just me..I have ls in my Cadillac escalade 2003 ,has 300k on it.but love video man I have lot think about when I do mine.
More Camaro/Trans Am videos!
I know I'm late to the party. Can you pull this engine out without discharging the AC? I have a 2004 Yukon w/185k miles. Just got it and It has a bottom end knock/tick. Pretty sure the owner loaded the oil with some type of thickener. Knock started the day after I paid cash for it. Debating pulling the engine and grabbing a reman or junkyard ebay motor. Later on I would be rebuilding the pulled engine with upgrades to put back in a later date. Thanks for any replies.
What can I do to fix piston slap I put on 03 in my 01 Yukon an I noticed when I start the truck in the morning it does that idk if you guys have any tips on fixing this thanks
Love your videos Matt! What made ya decide to go turbo rather than supercharger?
Yo my man wanted to ask I wanna build my Tahoe as well it’s a 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.3 flex fuel I’m looking at cams but i don’t know if there is a difference between flex fuel and non flex fuel ?
Is the oil drain for the turbo in the front of the oil pan the typical spot? I assume it is cause Matt is pretty experienced, but damn that seems inconvenient to me.
Did you have to degree the cam?
Hey Matt got a quick question for a 00 Chevy suburban ls 5.3 platform I have. I want to get more power out of it and I'm just at 210k. Runs great no issues and want to know what else should I upgrade or go with if I'm not doing a turbo setup rn? I may do one down the road in the future but for budget and getting better performance and stuff like that what else should I replace? Trying to get things planned out for next summer getting both transmission and engine rebuilt plus maybe a refresh in the transfer case. Rear end is new with only 98k miles now. I got it with 90k.
so is this what you should do to a motor before putting turbo on it?
if so i have a 97 tahoe what the difference between my trucks motor and this trucks motor? anything you can tell me would be helpful
You didn't do a Sloppy special and just use your impact for torque specs. Nice work.
I had a crusty 2003 tahoe and it was still faster those Honda civic straight pipe things on the road
Installed covers wrong. You align the covers even with the block, tighten. Then install pan
🔥🔥🔥
What's are your thoughts on the quinn torque wrench?
I’ve been thinking about increasing power on my 2011 LC9 suburban. I tow and use the vehicle for road trips (not my daily driver). My idea lately has been swapping in a 6.2L L9H. Have you considered this?
Have you tried changing the cam in the 5.3 yet? Stage 2 truck cam gives a big jump in both hp and torque.
My Chevy and this was her piston
Man that motor looks clean internally with that many miles. What oil did you run?
I didn’t own it for the first 208,000 so I have no idea!
Are you located in New York? So am I how much would you charge me to do this job 86 suburban with an LS 5.3
Curious why you didn’t gap the rings.
I figured at 250k they should be pretty opened up by now. a21bravo did a video where he pulled a stock 200k lq4 apart and the untouched ring gaps were already at .026-.030
Shouldn’t the cam retainer plate have the recessed Allen/hex/torx head bolts
Later years probably have them
@12:16 😄😄
Great vid!!!!
Why aren't you gaping the rings?
Amount of miles on it should have a wide enough gap already.
Are you in new York ?
The only thing I dont like from rock autocis that I you need 5 parts you have to pay around 10 dolars per part totaling almost 50dlls
great video !!
Found you again bro,never got any of your vids for some reason
Lmao so sensual with that cam 😂
Every cam is a turbo cam
Gap the rings.
If you forget to put in the barbell you'll not have oil pressure.
You could have ran the drain to the timing cover
Didn’t seem like there would be room when the compressor and accessories were back on.
@@lsxmatt oh ok. I’ve just seen a lot of people do it that way. I got to say watching your Tahoe videos have been really inspiring me to fix up my Tahoe. Mine is a 2001 2wd. I got it for free. It needs paint and a transmission rebuilt
Turbo cam ???
Good video, Matt. I don't know if you've seen these before but Melling put out two really great videos if you are not shimming the pump. One to center it; th-cam.com/video/zzz6NkXTq24/w-d-xo.html and one to prefill it if you don't pressure lube it; th-cam.com/video/539ClWWJMl8/w-d-xo.html
Why would you do all this work just to keep the nasty ass dished pistons in it?
GASP didn’t keep his push rods in order and used an impact to break head bolts free!!!!
First
Keep it up"Nice.. I am suprised that you haven't researched Promo*SM!!
You giving out a prize? Got a message saying text a number?
No not me, probably a scam!
@@lsxmatt that's what I thought, keep up the good work brother!
Pewter tahoe gang love the build bro im geting ready to build a cammed 10.8 to 1 comp 6.0 for my 03 but I'm torn cause Mines show room new like 54k my grandpa ordered it fully loaded with some custom dealer options do I keep it stock or make it fun cause she's a garage queen unless it's nice out