70-80 vibration is control arm bushings. Every 60k of miles. My old e34 525 had the same issues. Take it in and have new bushings pressed in. And brake rotors are $45 a piece.
Please please post a video if you happen to replace those control arm bushings. I have the same annoying vibration (both while braking from 60-80 mph and even when waiting at a traffic light). The vibration is not just the wheel but also the seats
My friend, if you have vibration at the traffic light then it sounds like your motor mounts or something not running correctly. Suspension bushings won’t cause it to vibrate at complete stop ..
Gotta ask haha I found a very very clean condition manual transmission car 535i 2011 for 12k. Has 147k miles though ): having have owned E36 E46 and my newest e60 all in manual transmission I know that high miles bring regular maintenance items but I've noticed that manual transmissions tend to be at least a little more reliable. I've never owned a turbo BMW before what's your take? Awesome video I've had that exact control arm issue before! Here's a tip for folks who drive spiritedly and track the cars. Use red high strength thread locker to torque bolts. Even at factory torque they kept backing out under hard driving mainly the e60 due to higher weight I'm guessing!
I know you get a million of these questions, but I test drove a 2011 535i Xdrive today and am thinking hard about it. It only had 81,000 miles, and for a 12+ year old car that is pretty good. I'm just scared of the maintenance costs of these things. Coming from a 2007 Honda Civic Si that's basically cost me nothing to maintain, a Bimmer is gonna kill the pocketbook huh?
Hey man honestly if the car is mint and well maintained you’ll be fine. Just find a reputable European car shop near you and have them do a pre purchase inspection on it deff worth the few hundred bucks
Im worried about the HPFP. Do they fail as often as the did on the N54? Im not to worried about the other issues since they are common on all BMW's. Also I know rod bearing faluire is super rare on the N55.
Nice vid!!!! I have a 2015 N55, 77,000 miles. will it have rod bearing problems? did they revise the rod bearings in 2014? can it still happen? or less likely?
Hey bro, ive got a problem with my f10 n55. One day the car started to act strange like i had no power under 2000rpm, an extra sound from the exhaust, the engine running a bit rough, laggy acceleration. I thought its time for the spark plugs to be changed and so i did (ngk 97506). The car was perfect for like 2-3 days after the plugs change, then again the problem reapeared. At that moment i thought the plugs are not ok for my car and i changed them with oem ones. After 3-4 days of running great, the car did the same problem again. Ive changed all the coils (oem) and plugs (oem) and the car ran perfect again. After 2-3 days again bad…i decided to check everything like turbo/intake/chargepipe/ did a smoke test, everything perfect. I put back the ngk’s that i used in the first time and the car run perfect again but again for only 2-3 days. Do you think it could be the injectors? Car has 119k kms, the plugs had no signs of fuel on them, but my oil is smelling like gas
No check engine light? Normally when your car is running at reduced power it will go into the limp mode and throw a code.. even if no check engine I recommend getting it scanned by a bmw professional because they can read codes that normal readers won’t show at all. At least they will pin point the problem for you that you can DIY fix 👍. It does sound like injectors might be the problem here but I would make sure 100% this is it before replacing those as it’s not that cheap ( they need to be coded too).
@@BIMMERLEAGUE no codes whatsoever, i use mhd regularely also. No missfires registered, no other codes. I know that the injectors need to be coded. Should i go with oem injectors or bosch ones are the same? In my country oem ones are 250$ and the bosch ones are 100$
@@catalin.c I had that same choice when the trouble body went bad on my x5. I used Bosch and never had a problem with it ever since. I would go with Bosch to save $$$. They make quality stuff 👍👌
I guess wen you're used to perfection you notice any little vibration. I'm used to vibrations clinks and clanks so I'm sure I'd be amazed how little your car vibrates compared to what I'm used to. One day......
yes, i can confirm that replacing the control arm will got rid of the vibration after all. since i have a CPO Certified the dealer paid for it at 60K miles. at 75K they replaced the entire transmission, imported from Germany, and the valve cover gasket. at 100k replace both driver and passenger sides axles. at 136K i have to paid for the thermostat and the water pump. tire, brake and rotors were replaced at the regular interval so ... oh, last year the lock module on my passenger went out so they have to replace that. the car paid for and seem like all the parts are technically new so ... should i keep it? i think i should ... keep my finger cross for another 100K? wishful thinking?
Hey man, what's your thoughts on a 2013 535i with 108k miles for $16k? Absolutely perfectly clean carfax and I'd be getting a bumper to bumper warranty
I mean you have to think of re-sale value - if you go to sell later you prolly won’t get much due to high mileage but If you’re planning on keeping the car till the wheels fall off then why not !? I’d also get a pre-purchase inspection and have them look for leaks, metal shavings in engine oil, hidden accidents etc
@@BIMMERLEAGUE Thank you so much for the insight! Going to check it out/test drive tomorrow, I'd be trading in my 2016 WRX with 87k miles - to some that may sound silly but I randomly test drove a different 535i because my girlfriend just bought a 328i and I fell in love... it's so perfectly spacious, decently quick and felt like so much car. I would definitely be keeping it forever since it would be silly to expect it to retain decent value if the miles go up so I think if it makes sense I'm going to say fuck it.
I don’t follow the market that closely anymore but as long as you get a pre purchase inspection done and the car is MINT then sounds like not a bad deal
I recommend a none dealership bmw shop. I’d ask them to pull the oil filter and look for metal shavings etc I don’t think dealerships go that intrusive
My 2013 f10 starts tweaking when I get close to it with the keys in my pocket, it starts unlocking the car by itself, I’m not sure what’s wrong I think it’s one of the door handles comfort access sensor, it keeps going off
Well, as I always say - get a pre purchase inspection done at an independent shop and if car looks good, no oil/coolant leaks then go for it. These are much more reliable than they used to be
I'll give you a dated reference. I bought my 2015 535 coming off lease in 2018 for $31k. Mint condition with 32k miles. Given how the market has been going crazy lately, it's a high price for a car that age, but not necessarily insane as the miles are relatively low. Key will be how the car was maintained and if it comes with a warranty. An ideal price would be between $22 and $25.
Hey dude I have the same 535 but 2015 with 51k miles Mine has comfort steering wheel tilt, like every time I stop the engine it will move the steering column up for easy exit entry. I looked everywhere In the bimmercode app and couldn’t find how to turn that thing off. Maybe you can help?
Thanks to all for replying I actually did search a lot and did not find the way to resolve that. I keep mine all the way down when driving and it’s annoying the hell out of me moving up every time I stop the engine
This is the cheat sheet that I use for my Bimmer code but I don’t see anything about steering wheel on here :/ f10.m5post.com/forums/attachment.php?s=63dd17fa6b95cd7eafba11bbae5b9c22&attachmentid=934574&d=1383186642
Watch at *1.75 speed
😆👍
Lmao
2*** 1.75 is still too slow🤣
Thank you
😭😭😭🙏🏾
BMW has had front control arm bushing issues on 5/6 series cars since the 80s. Always check the control arm bushings before digging into the brakes.
Ty
Thanks alot bro
Of course!
great video! what about hearing a solid clunk sound when completing an entire turn of the steering wheel (sound at maximum turn of wheel)
There’s just no way of telling without putting the car on a lift and looking at it bud
70-80 vibration is control arm bushings. Every 60k of miles. My old e34 525 had the same issues. Take it in and have new bushings pressed in. And brake rotors are $45 a piece.
Yeep that’s what I’ve heard 👍
Nice cat!😄
Pahaha thanks pal. He’s a car enthusiast like myself 🤣👍
❤️
🙏
Please please post a video if you happen to replace those control arm bushings. I have the same annoying vibration (both while braking from 60-80 mph and even when waiting at a traffic light). The vibration is not just the wheel but also the seats
My friend, if you have vibration at the traffic light then it sounds like your motor mounts or something not running correctly. Suspension bushings won’t cause it to vibrate at complete stop ..
Did you try replacing your rotors?
Gotta ask haha I found a very very clean condition manual transmission car 535i 2011 for 12k. Has 147k miles though ): having have owned E36 E46 and my newest e60 all in manual transmission I know that high miles bring regular maintenance items but I've noticed that manual transmissions tend to be at least a little more reliable. I've never owned a turbo BMW before what's your take? Awesome video I've had that exact control arm issue before! Here's a tip for folks who drive spiritedly and track the cars. Use red high strength thread locker to torque bolts. Even at factory torque they kept backing out under hard driving mainly the e60 due to higher weight I'm guessing!
Man you and I both know you gotta stay away from that car 🤣
I know you get a million of these questions, but I test drove a 2011 535i Xdrive today and am thinking hard about it. It only had 81,000 miles, and for a 12+ year old car that is pretty good. I'm just scared of the maintenance costs of these things. Coming from a 2007 Honda Civic Si that's basically cost me nothing to maintain, a Bimmer is gonna kill the pocketbook huh?
Hey man honestly if the car is mint and well maintained you’ll be fine. Just find a reputable European car shop near you and have them do a pre purchase inspection on it deff worth the few hundred bucks
Im worried about the HPFP. Do they fail as often as the did on the N54? Im not to worried about the other issues since they are common on all BMW's. Also I know rod bearing faluire is super rare on the N55.
Yeah I think n55 has those issues corrected. Maybe in some rear cases but not common
The n55 before august of 2011 had the same HPFP as the n54, after that they got smaller style cheaper simple pumps
I have a 2007 bmw n54 and I had issues with that but after I fixed it I never had problems with it again and it runs great
Nice vid!!!! I have a 2015 N55, 77,000 miles. will it have rod bearing problems? did they revise the rod bearings in 2014? can it still happen? or less likely?
I think rod bearings is a notorious problem for e60 m5 but you’re safe with n55 - never heard of the rod bearing issues on these 🤙
Yeah the early n55s had issues with rod bearings at higher power levels. 2014+ got revised. You should be ok
I think the rod bearing issue has to do with oil starvation, being high in the rpm, and higher power driving
Hey bro, ive got a problem with my f10 n55. One day the car started to act strange like i had no power under 2000rpm, an extra sound from the exhaust, the engine running a bit rough, laggy acceleration. I thought its time for the spark plugs to be changed and so i did (ngk 97506). The car was perfect for like 2-3 days after the plugs change, then again the problem reapeared. At that moment i thought the plugs are not ok for my car and i changed them with oem ones. After 3-4 days of running great, the car did the same problem again. Ive changed all the coils (oem) and plugs (oem) and the car ran perfect again. After 2-3 days again bad…i decided to check everything like turbo/intake/chargepipe/ did a smoke test, everything perfect. I put back the ngk’s that i used in the first time and the car run perfect again but again for only 2-3 days. Do you think it could be the injectors? Car has 119k kms, the plugs had no signs of fuel on them, but my oil is smelling like gas
No check engine light? Normally when your car is running at reduced power it will go into the limp mode and throw a code.. even if no check engine I recommend getting it scanned by a bmw professional because they can read codes that normal readers won’t show at all. At least they will pin point the problem for you that you can DIY fix 👍. It does sound like injectors might be the problem here but I would make sure 100% this is it before replacing those as it’s not that cheap ( they need to be coded too).
@@BIMMERLEAGUE no codes whatsoever, i use mhd regularely also. No missfires registered, no other codes. I know that the injectors need to be coded. Should i go with oem injectors or bosch ones are the same? In my country oem ones are 250$ and the bosch ones are 100$
@@catalin.c I had that same choice when the trouble body went bad on my x5. I used Bosch and never had a problem with it ever since. I would go with Bosch to save $$$. They make quality stuff 👍👌
@@BIMMERLEAGUE actually the oem ones are also bosch, thats why i couldnt understand why so much of a difference in price. Thanks for the response
@@catalin.c always 👍
I guess wen you're used to perfection you notice any little vibration. I'm used to vibrations clinks and clanks so I'm sure I'd be amazed how little your car vibrates compared to what I'm used to. One day......
Heh that’s true
yes, i can confirm that replacing the control arm will got rid of the vibration after all. since i have a CPO Certified the dealer paid for it at 60K miles. at 75K they replaced the entire transmission, imported from Germany, and the valve cover gasket. at 100k replace both driver and passenger sides axles. at 136K i have to paid for the thermostat and the water pump. tire, brake and rotors were replaced at the regular interval so ... oh, last year the lock module on my passenger went out so they have to replace that. the car paid for and seem like all the parts are technically new so ... should i keep it? i think i should ... keep my finger cross for another 100K? wishful thinking?
oh wow yeah thanks for sharing it. I'd keep it since you've invested so much already
That is absurd maintenance experience
2014 535i 69k miles for 17k, worth it? Maybe I'll just change the oil filter housing gasket and check the suspension right away.
Not bad in This market . Just get a pre-purchase inspection done and go for it 👍
What car would you recommend over the 2012 535i??
F8x M 👌👌👌
would you buy one with 135k miles but in mint condition very well taken care of and just got everything done to it
I wouldn’t lol
How much did you pay for replacing the oil housing gasket?
I did it myself so just parts (two gaskets) like $70-80 I think
Hey man, what's your thoughts on a 2013 535i with 108k miles for $16k? Absolutely perfectly clean carfax and I'd be getting a bumper to bumper warranty
I mean you have to think of re-sale value - if you go to sell later you prolly won’t get much due to high mileage but If you’re planning on keeping the car till the wheels fall off then why not !? I’d also get a pre-purchase inspection and have them look for leaks, metal shavings in engine oil, hidden accidents etc
@@BIMMERLEAGUE Thank you so much for the insight! Going to check it out/test drive tomorrow, I'd be trading in my 2016 WRX with 87k miles - to some that may sound silly but I randomly test drove a different 535i because my girlfriend just bought a 328i and I fell in love... it's so perfectly spacious, decently quick and felt like so much car. I would definitely be keeping it forever since it would be silly to expect it to retain decent value if the miles go up so I think if it makes sense I'm going to say fuck it.
Right on , BMWs are different level cars man you won’t regret it
I got a 2012 535i for 12k with 97k miles. Runs great !!
My 2013 535i water pump took a dump @79k..
opinion on a 13 535i with 60k miles from a dealer for $18k?
I don’t follow the market that closely anymore but as long as you get a pre purchase inspection done and the car is MINT then sounds like not a bad deal
Would you get one of these, 2014 535ix with 125k miles and a warranty for 17k all taxes and fees included?
I tried to avoid getting any car with more then 80K miles but If the price is right, and with pre-purchase inspection I would why not ..
@@BIMMERLEAGUE I know the BMW dealership is going r*pe but do you recommend them for the pre purchase or do you have another recommendation?
I recommend a none dealership bmw shop. I’d ask them to pull the oil filter and look for metal shavings etc I don’t think dealerships go that intrusive
Been a looking to buy one with high mileage 195k to be exactly. Do you think it’s worth buying??
Hell no ! Lol
Let me chime in on this are you dumb lol
Bro that’s almost up 200k miles ….that’s damn near a lemon
Is it with buying a 2012 bmw 535i 87k miles 14,500?
That not bad. I always say just spend few hundred on pre-purchase inspection regardless of mileage!
My 2013 f10 starts tweaking when I get close to it with the keys in my pocket, it starts unlocking the car by itself, I’m not sure what’s wrong I think it’s one of the door handles comfort access sensor, it keeps going off
Wow interesting. I’ve never even heard of this one. Have you researched it on forums?
Check your fuses!
I have this exact same issue! With mine
One of the handles have started to go bad. It’s pretty common actually. Happened to my driver door handle.
@@joseurbaez8869 oh wow so you had to replace the entire door handle ?
11500 for 2013 535i 96k miles worth?
Not sure bud I don’t follow the market anymore
valvtronic system😭 cost $7,500 since the eccentric shaft failed along with it
Good lord
95k miles for 14k out the door with taxes and plates 2013, worth it? I Plan on keeping for ever lol
Pre purchase inspection at the shop and then if clean buy it!
Would it be dumb if me to get a 2013 535i with 80k miles
Well, as I always say - get a pre purchase inspection done at an independent shop and if car looks good, no oil/coolant leaks then go for it. These are much more reliable than they used to be
Looking at a 2012 535i for 102k miles …what’s your opinion bro
2016+ lol
@@BIMMERLEAGUE lol why the “lol”??
@@gamworldworldwide673 I mean 2012 is a 12 y.o car I’d recommend something a little newer
2016 with 50k miles . Is it worth 28k?
Not sure mate I don’t follow the market anymore
I'll give you a dated reference. I bought my 2015 535 coming off lease in 2018 for $31k. Mint condition with 32k miles. Given how the market has been going crazy lately, it's a high price for a car that age, but not necessarily insane as the miles are relatively low. Key will be how the car was maintained and if it comes with a warranty. An ideal price would be between $22 and $25.
Hey dude
I have the same 535 but 2015 with 51k miles
Mine has comfort steering wheel tilt, like every time I stop the engine it will move the steering column up for easy exit entry. I looked everywhere In the bimmercode app and couldn’t find how to turn that thing off. Maybe you can help?
Hey brotha, no I have not seen that option on Bimmercode. I would suggest researching this online . Perhaps you’ll find something on forums 👍
only way to stop it is to keep the steering wheel position as high as possible. Then it wont move.
i have seen an option in my bimmercode that stops it from moving, ill take a look and let you know if i find it!
Thanks to all for replying
I actually did search a lot and did not find the way to resolve that. I keep mine all the way down when driving and it’s annoying the hell out of me moving up every time I stop the engine
This is the cheat sheet that I use for my Bimmer code but I don’t see anything about steering wheel on here :/ f10.m5post.com/forums/attachment.php?s=63dd17fa6b95cd7eafba11bbae5b9c22&attachmentid=934574&d=1383186642
Is it with buying a 2012 bmw 535i 87k miles 14,500?
Yes aslong as the car fax checks out and proper maintenance was performed