Chris Wall of the Boulder Rock Club demonstrated how to best learn to lead climb in a gym. Brought to you by TruBlue Auto Belay. Find out more at www.autobelay.com.
What a brilliant point, I never thought of it like that! Fear of falling ruins my grip and make me over grip the wall. So just have fun with it and practice the falling! I guarantee you've just improved my climb massively. Thanks
What about the direction of the rope? the orientation of the carabiner? rope placement on the legs? This video is incognito, true name is "Learning to clip"
Yeah, lol...but then you're back on the ground and all the ways that could have gone differently catch up with you and suddenly it's not fun anymore. It's like...oh, shit. Narrowly avoided inverted face-plants are the worst. :D
Back up knot is just like any other precaution you take in climbing. Most climbers will never see an instance of a tie in point coming undone but there will be that one freak accident every 30 years where the extra precaution will save one life.
Great video. I would have liked to see something about the danger of back clipping which is why I watched this video. I am a little fuzzy on the orientation of the quickdraw and was hoping to see this in the video. Otherwise good information
This is an excellent video. I really like this guy. I also really like the TruBlue, but not to the tune of $2 grand. As a climber entering a new season, this is an excellent brush-up on the basics you usually take for granted. I dig it. I wish this guy worked at my gym.
the more videos I watch the more I realize that lol always seemed to be more of a psychological knot to make the climber feel better. Thanks for the reply
and some of them explicitly teach not to tie backup knots, because it makes it harder to visually identify the knot from a distance. whatever... comes down to what YOU think is best.
The double bowline MUST have a stopper knot, while the double 8 does not need it. Many people, myself included, use the Yosemite finish where you run the extra rope back through the knot. I honestly do not know of any instance where a figure 8 just unties itself
Actually the stopper knot does have a legitimate function- it makes it impossible for the main knot to become untied. When toproping, the main knot (figure-of-8 or bowline) is always under tension so it it extremely unlikely to untie anyway. For sport/lead climbing however, the climber's end is slack so it is more likely to happen. I've seen many people mess them up by tying it far away from the main knot, when it should actually be snug against it. Otherwise, it can't prevent loosening. :)
The figure 8 follow-through is inherently redundant so it doesn’t need a stopper. Another example of an inherently secure knot is the Lee’s Locked Yosemite Bowline. In both cases no stopper is needed as long as the knot is tied correctly. A classic yosemite bowline, for example, is NOT inherently secure and needs a stopper to make it safe.
I did all my falls years ago, while climbing free. It’s scary, but you get used to it. Of course, it MAY have been the cause of all the injuries that I feel now that I’m over 50...
I noticed that the rope direction is towards the wall , wouldn't this be dangerous ? I am just starting my journey but in my opinion rope should lead out of the wall , not towards - and this is basic physics, can you elaborate
What a brilliant point, I never thought of it like that! Fear of falling ruins my grip and make me over grip the wall. So just have fun with it and practice the falling! I guarantee you've just improved my climb massively. Thanks
What about the direction of the rope? the orientation of the carabiner? rope placement on the legs? This video is incognito, true name is "Learning to clip"
Yeah I think it is more for that and there's a much better tutorial here for clipping.
Its not even learning to clip, if it was then surely it would go over back clipping etc. Bit of a bad vid really.
Chris Wall - Great name
Should really cover back and z clipping as standard. New people watching this will not know how to identify if they have clipped incorrectly.
Video: Don't scare yourself on the first day by taking a huge fall. Me: Takes a 22ft fall on the first day...
Absolutely, how the hell hasn't it gotten more visibility
Great introduction!
Great video.
Yup, be better if lead belaying is covered.
Back and "Z" clip
"You might even like it" damn right i do, i was scared the first fall, but when it was over i was like hey this is fun!
Yeah, lol...but then you're back on the ground and all the ways that could have gone differently catch up with you and suddenly it's not fun anymore. It's like...oh, shit. Narrowly avoided inverted face-plants are the worst. :D
Very nice and very helpful, thanks!
Should you have quickdraws on a wall that has an auto belay on it? Surely the auto belay tape could get stuck In quickdraw? Never seen that in UK.
Back up knot is just like any other precaution you take in climbing. Most climbers will never see an instance of a tie in point coming undone but there will be that one freak accident every 30 years where the extra precaution will save one life.
Great video. I would have liked to see something about the danger of back clipping which is why I watched this video. I am a little fuzzy on the orientation of the quickdraw and was hoping to see this in the video. Otherwise good information
me too.
This is an excellent video. I really like this guy. I also really like the TruBlue, but not to the tune of $2 grand. As a climber entering a new season, this is an excellent brush-up on the basics you usually take for granted. I dig it. I wish this guy worked at my gym.
the more videos I watch the more I realize that lol always seemed to be more of a psychological knot to make the climber feel better. Thanks for the reply
and some of them explicitly teach not to tie backup knots, because it makes it harder to visually identify the knot from a distance. whatever... comes down to what YOU think is best.
There are 2 new ways of clipping. Go see Adam Ondra video "Adam Ondra #86: Tips for Better Clipping / Sid Lives 8c+" start at 4:04 to skip the intro.
Thanks
im rock climbing in school but its hard i started on the slanted wall but why are the smooth rocks so hard to grab?
This was extremely helpful
Surprised you are not using a double fisherman backup knot. Most gyms demand it as a saftey issue. Otherwise a very nice tutorial
0:50 Snap Clip
1:17 Pinch Clip
Thanks, good vid!
Instructions unclear: Attempted a pinch clip and lost my index finger because it got caught in the gate of the carabiner.
You lost all your index ?? It’s first time I hear a story like this
The double bowline MUST have a stopper knot, while the double 8 does not need it. Many people, myself included, use the Yosemite finish where you run the extra rope back through the knot. I honestly do not know of any instance where a figure 8 just unties itself
Actually the stopper knot does have a legitimate function- it makes it impossible for the main knot to become untied. When toproping, the main knot (figure-of-8 or bowline) is always under tension so it it extremely unlikely to untie anyway.
For sport/lead climbing however, the climber's end is slack so it is more likely to happen. I've seen many people mess them up by tying it far away from the main knot, when it should actually be snug against it. Otherwise, it can't prevent loosening. :)
The figure 8 follow-through is inherently redundant so it doesn’t need a stopper. Another example of an inherently secure knot is the Lee’s Locked Yosemite Bowline. In both cases no stopper is needed as long as the knot is tied correctly. A classic yosemite bowline, for example, is NOT inherently secure and needs a stopper to make it safe.
because they are smooth...
ive been leading climbing for a year still scared of falling :D
I did all my falls years ago, while climbing free. It’s scary, but you get used to it. Of course, it MAY have been the cause of all the injuries that I feel now that I’m over 50...
Is there a possibility that your hand can de-glove / get stuck when you run your index finger (pinch clip) through the gate?
Great demonstration. Had the illusion that he gonna say "legen.. wait for it...dary".
+1 for the Barney reference.
I noticed that the rope direction is towards the wall , wouldn't this be dangerous ? I am just starting my journey but in my opinion rope should lead out of the wall , not towards - and this is basic physics, can you elaborate
This guy's last name is literally Wall lmao, I wouldnt trust anyone else
This video made me fail my lead test
Not a single mention of the risks of backclipping. No wonder you see people who don't know the best techniques.
because they are smooth...