you are a very straight guy, you picked up that there was a rebar missing, others may have said that's ok but you never cut corners. I have been in the game all my life and see the good AND the bad ones. Greetings from Australia
Hey Bondo. Good to hear you guys are busy. You got a great crew. The slab and block turned out great. Good call on three course of block. Makes building the walls easier. Good to see my little buddy. Time for a cold one.
I’d work with you guys any day. If you’d have me. I like your pace. Keep moving. Don’t kill yourself. Like a long haul trucker. Set the cruise at 70 and just keep moving all day long. Very nice job. Plumb and straight block walls. Love how you caught that missing rebar. Good eye. Cool video. Thanks for taking me along for the day.
As usual great prep and finishing of slab never any drama with your firm just competence too bad your not in my area, I use visqueen as a drying preventor for 28 days to achieve a wet cure and prevent most cracking eliminating the need to saw cut smaller than a 40' grid. I now also add 3lbs/per yard of I prefer 3/4"-1.25" basalt fibre mixed just prior to placement, mandatory no more than 10-15 minutes in truck prior to placement for fibre mixing if using fibreglass fibres for extra crack prevention. All pours are vibrated. As an owner developer of commercial space I can and always do to build for 100 year minimum service life. I never load any slabs until fully cured 28 days which as the owner is part of my specs. No cracks and no cutting I' been doing this since the late 70's and have a long history of using dry mixes and vibrating all floor placements to achieve the most strength for each pour when I test occasionally I usually get about 4K+ PSI for 2500 PSI grade delivered concrete, making the extra efforts needed to work dry mixes and wet curing more than pay for this method. I have in the last five years I've gone to using basalt 4" mesh or tied besalt rebar (w/tie wraps.) no spalling ever. Ray
Your concrete laying and finishing looked very good. Nice to see great construction work! Although, it looked like there were a few spots where the mesh did not get lifted very high. This is a common problem that I have seen because lifting the mesh once you pour any concrete on top of it is almost impossible. I believe that it would be best if, as soon as the concrete arrives, one worker should lift a spot of mesh up and a second worker should put a shovel full of concrete right next to where the mesh was lifted. This should be done about every two feet in all direction. This can be done for several feet in all directions before pouring any concrete. This will hold the mesh off the ground when concrete is placed. I hope this idea will help to get the mesh in the bottom third of the concrete!
Pole barns are (understandably) becoming a thing of the past in my area. Our soils experience numerous freeze-thaw cycles and we get a lot of moisture in general. It's a bad environment for any building system which puts wood in or near the ground.
Nice stuff. Two questions. 1) can you show the interior framing and how they attached it to the block? 2) Why would you opt to do 3 courses of block and not pour a solid wall that tall? I'm not a mason so I have no idea and am curious. Just trying to figure out how I may want to build mine in the future. Thanks again!
Looks nice! i wish I would have built my whole shop out of block. I was born into the Masonry Business, my dad was a Mason, his dad and seven brothers were too. I started going to work with him when I was about 5 years old. I was a Hod Carrier a little later until I was a junior in high school and had pushed my way onto the wall and laid brick and block until I was almost 20. I was in an auto accident driving to the job one morning and I broke my back, (paralyzed) so that ended my Masonry career. I see things now that we never did or had? I always mixed Lonestar with sand and some of your string block look pretty fancy. We used wood corner blocks and the straightest 2x4 to run a string that we marked. I went to college and then into the white-collar world and hated every minute of it. I just laugh when construction workers tell me how good people in air conditioning sitting behind a desk have it. In my experience I would have rather broke concrete with a sledge hammer on a hundred degree day in the sun for the last 30 years than be in an air conditioned cage. I would have done things differently if I could. I would have done all the bidding and running to get materials. I don't see any real brick or block in the Midwest anymore. All Faux by 10 guys that hop out of a van every day.
Mesh Police are strong in the comments section, pity most don't watch the video properly as they'd have seen you lifting the mesh up as you were pouring & later between the first & second pour. My thoughts are that I hope people aren't taking advantage of your good nature Ron, by prepping half-arsed knowing you'll do the prep properly in your time & cost. 👍
Ive been watching your vids and some of your slabs are very intricate. Some have heat and a trench, not a French but a trench! I just need to find someone that may have the right answers. After looking at all you do, I think I found the right one with the answers. Please and 🙏. I need to pour a 10’x40’ - 12x48’ 4” slab with 3/8 rebar on top 3/4 rock. Will that rock under the slab give drainage under the barn when it rains. Could I pour it in sections and is there a way to create a grade and slope so rinse water goes out one spicific side as to rinse down the slab.
Great craftsmanship! What laser kit are using and how do you like it? Looks like a Spectra Precision LL100N Laser Level, Self-Leveling laser with HR320 Receiver, C59 Rod Clamp.
I see on your dump trailer that you are missing your dust cap on the front axle driver side, I know they are a pain to find the right size. Without one on there you increase the chances of wiping out your bearings on that side and causing a potential downtime incident.
Did one 3 courses after jacking the garage up and extending 5', a little easier this way, LOL nice job. I have one question for ya, the mixer is low and how do you get the mud in the wheel barrel, I put the mixer on blocks which is never fun????
So maybe I'm confused but it looks like you got guys that pulled the bar up and then you turn around and had another guy walking in there squishing it right back down to the bottom so your wire and mesh is laying on top of your plastic and underneath your concrete. It looks like a beautiful pad. It looks like a beautiful Pad but it also looks like you guys walk back and pushed all your bar right down to the bottom.
@@SystemsPlanetin other videos he demonstrates clearly that it does stay up where it should be but in every video someone always complains it’s not done right. I’ve watched enough videos of these guys to be confident they are making sure the mesh is raised up and inside the concrete.
I had the same observation. 4-5 guys all standing and walking on it. Maybe we're both confused. Check the depth of cement on their boots. Whatever that depth = same as the mesh.
In a situation like this, would it be economical to just fill the entire thing with concrete as opposed to spending the labor and fill to build up the middle?
I hired two guys to put an apron on the front of my building and in the back to the edge of the building in about 3 feet. So we paid the guy and it wasn't 2 days when the concrete company calls me to pay them. So I called the contractor and he says he will pay them in 2 days. So I guess he paid them. While the driver was there he asks me where he should clean his truck, so I tell him to put it over by the fence which was just on the other side of his truck. He cleans it out right in the yard. Whatever! So then I had to pick it up so not to ruin the lawnmower blades.
I seen that also, from my observation lifting the mesh once you pour any concrete on top of it is almost impossible. I believe that it would be best if as soon as the concrete arrives, one worker should lift a spot of mesh up and a second worker should put a shovel full of concrete right next to where the mesh was lifted. This should be done about every two feet in all direction. This can be done for several feet in all directions. This will hold the mesh off the ground when concrete is placed. I hope this idea will help to get the mesh in the bottom third of the concrete!
@@gazwaldofetonsville115 the metal supposed to be deep enough into the concrete so that it can't get air to it. Otherwise it rusts and expands, eventually blowing the concrete apart. I'm just an engineer and not an installer so, I don't know how it is accomplished but it appears they walked on top of the mesh, mashing it to the bottom. Maybe the mesh isn't thick enough to blow the concrete and the rebar was lifted high enough. It'd seem if you flipped this slab over that there'd be exposed metal on the bottom.
@@burtreynolds3143 If they put concrete under several spots and the concrete sets up a bit it will have a better chance of remaining off the ground. It would be best to use a dryer mix for this purpose.
Why didn't they put the garage next to the house? They could have attached it. Here in the NorthEast we pour the stem walls 4' down, then we pour the floor.
first thing to do is spray water on the floor and make sure it doesnt run to the wall for when you wash your vehicle. been there.....for the flies get a dryer sheet and attach to a straw hat, friend sprays the hat with lysol as well, You can get clear adhesive fly strip sheets at Dollar stores and put it sticky side up on the hat, Flies go right for it and stick.. By noon its full
Stopped seeing deer flies in my area, I'm not complaining, don't know the reason maybe just getting too old for them. I even live in a wooded area here in Ohio.
No the footer is integral to the slab and it is esentaly a floating slab so you do not need frost protection. I have poured 100's of these mono slabs and they never move
There's not a whole lot of savings there is a lot in time but a monolithic is poor is stronger if you can add your floor and your footer into one. But a house has to be down at least 42 in our area the northern states and the southern area you can do more with a monolithic poor.
Gotta think the guy is better off buying dirt and your labor to make the subgrade right rather than buy more concrete. Do clients have to buy all materials placed? Great example, thanks.
I can't believe people pay all that money for a pad, and don't put a pad for the man door entrance? That may not apply to this guy, but in general. I have seen Ken's Karpentry for about 40 garages without.
I highly suspect you have fantastic content and do even better work; however, PLEASE buy a tripod, they're cheap. Ok, now that you've been encouraged I'm gonna go puke from motion sickness ;-0~~~~
the wwm (welded wire mesh) is doing absolutely nothing. it is laying on the bottom. I've cut more than 50 slabs where they had wwm and they said they pulled it up. well that does not work. the wwm will always be on the bottom. same for the rebar.. if you do not support rebar (or wwm) on chairs it will be on the bottom. wwm is a waste of money. use fibre reinforced concrete instead of wwm.
Clearly 'forgot" about lifting the rewire 20 seconds into the pour! Before you say you did lift it - @17:57, 19:05, 21:25, 22:15, and everywhere else in the video, the wire is plain as day laying on the ground! LMFAO
So your doing a floating slab there ok, done lots of them years ago working for someone else but don’t care for floating slabs wear there is definitely lots of frosts won’t recommend where you have winters…
The critters are still gonna burrow along the edge unless it's as deep as a stem wall. I hate these slabs. Build a deep ass footer with a brick ledge set on the inside. Pack that shit down and pour the slab..........200 year foundation and no need to stack bricks.
By the time it it backfilled it will be under 2 feet of crushed rock with a drain around it. Not sure how or why critters will dig under it. Also the edge is 12" thick concrete where are the critters going? lol
you are a very straight guy, you picked up that there was a rebar missing, others may have said that's ok but you never cut corners. I have been in the game all my life and see the good AND the bad ones. Greetings from Australia
Hey Bondo. Good to hear you guys are busy. You got a great crew. The slab and block turned out great. Good call on three course of block. Makes building the walls easier. Good to see my little buddy. Time for a cold one.
I’d work with you guys any day. If you’d have me. I like your pace. Keep moving. Don’t kill yourself. Like a long haul trucker. Set the cruise at 70 and just keep moving all day long. Very nice job. Plumb and straight block walls. Love how you caught that missing rebar. Good eye. Cool video. Thanks for taking me along for the day.
As usual great prep and finishing of slab never any drama with your firm just competence too bad your not in my area, I use visqueen as a drying preventor for 28 days to achieve a wet cure and prevent most cracking eliminating the need to saw cut smaller than a 40' grid. I now also add 3lbs/per yard of I prefer 3/4"-1.25" basalt fibre mixed just prior to placement, mandatory no more than 10-15 minutes in truck prior to placement for fibre mixing if using fibreglass fibres for extra crack prevention. All pours are vibrated. As an owner developer of commercial space I can and always do to build for 100 year minimum service life. I never load any slabs until fully cured 28 days which as the owner is part of my specs. No cracks and no cutting I' been doing this since the late 70's and have a long history of using dry mixes and vibrating all floor placements to achieve the most strength for each pour when I test occasionally I usually get about 4K+ PSI for 2500 PSI grade delivered concrete, making the extra efforts needed to work dry mixes and wet curing more than pay for this method. I have in the last five years I've gone to using basalt 4" mesh or tied besalt rebar (w/tie wraps.)
no spalling ever. Ray
Your concrete laying and finishing looked very good. Nice to see great construction work!
Although, it looked like there were a few spots where the mesh did not get lifted very high. This is a common problem that I have seen because lifting the mesh once you pour any concrete on top of it is almost impossible. I believe that it would be best if, as soon as the concrete arrives, one worker should lift a spot of mesh up and a second worker should put a shovel full of concrete right next to where the mesh was lifted. This should be done about every two feet in all direction. This can be done for several feet in all directions before pouring any concrete. This will hold the mesh off the ground when concrete is placed. I hope this idea will help to get the mesh in the bottom third of the concrete!
You the MAN. And my boy ROW .👍🏻🐶🇺🇸
Bondo excellent scheduling men, material and equipment.
I did my 26x38 3 car garage the same way a few years ago…with hydronic heat in the floor…it’s working great
Beautiful work guys!
You got me hooked on saying "hmmmmm" all the time 😂 and "here comes the mud!!"
Very good teamwork.
Nice work. Gonna be a nice place
Good day, good crew! Looks good!
great job Bondo !!!! ty for posting
What’s Up Bondo n Crew Hope ur All Doing Good.
I Needed Something Good To Watch Thanks for the Video n Great Job.🤙🔥🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Pole barns are (understandably) becoming a thing of the past in my area. Our soils experience numerous freeze-thaw cycles and we get a lot of moisture in general. It's a bad environment for any building system which puts wood in or near the ground.
I live in Michigan. I’ve never had a problem. You just gotta make sure your post blow frost line and make sure you’re not pouring your slab on clay
Here comes the mud
Iv never seen gravel that color before very cool I live in Pittsburgh all are stuff is gray
Great job
Great job.
Nice stuff. Two questions. 1) can you show the interior framing and how they attached it to the block? 2) Why would you opt to do 3 courses of block and not pour a solid wall that tall? I'm not a mason so I have no idea and am curious. Just trying to figure out how I may want to build mine in the future. Thanks again!
I see how the team is set up, two blue shirts screeders and two mud positioners and one yellow standby. Like Naval a/c operations.
Top job 👍👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧Manchester England 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧👊🎥
Looks nice! i wish I would have built my whole shop out of block. I was born into the Masonry Business, my dad was a Mason, his dad and seven brothers were too. I started going to work with him when I was about 5 years old. I was a Hod Carrier a little later until I was a junior in high school and had pushed my way onto the wall and laid brick and block until I was almost 20. I was in an auto accident driving to the job one morning and I broke my back, (paralyzed) so that ended my Masonry career. I see things now that we never did or had? I always mixed Lonestar with sand and some of your string block look pretty fancy. We used wood corner blocks and the straightest 2x4 to run a string that we marked. I went to college and then into the white-collar world and hated every minute of it. I just laugh when construction workers tell me how good people in air conditioning sitting behind a desk have it. In my experience I would have rather broke concrete with a sledge hammer on a hundred degree day in the sun for the last 30 years than be in an air conditioned cage. I would have done things differently if I could. I would have done all the bidding and running to get materials. I don't see any real brick or block in the Midwest anymore. All Faux by 10 guys that hop out of a van every day.
Mesh Police are strong in the comments section, pity most don't watch the video properly as they'd have seen you lifting the mesh up as you were pouring & later between the first & second pour.
My thoughts are that I hope people aren't taking advantage of your good nature Ron, by prepping half-arsed knowing you'll do the prep properly in your time & cost. 👍
Ive been watching your vids and some of your slabs are very intricate. Some have heat and a trench, not a French but a trench!
I just need to find someone that may have the right answers. After looking at all you do, I think I found the right one with the answers. Please and 🙏.
I need to pour a 10’x40’ - 12x48’ 4” slab with 3/8 rebar on top 3/4 rock. Will that rock under the slab give drainage under the barn when it rains. Could I pour it in sections and is there a way to create a grade and slope so rinse water goes out one spicific side as to rinse down the slab.
Willie Wacker is a handy little feller
I like watching the concrete smooth out. ...
21 👍's up BB thank you for sharing 🤗
What is the point of lifting up the mesh and rebar and then walking all over the top of it? Doesn't that mash it back down to the moisture barrier ?
Great craftsmanship! What laser kit are using and how do you like it? Looks like a Spectra Precision LL100N Laser Level, Self-Leveling laser with HR320 Receiver, C59 Rod Clamp.
Nice job bro...😊
Can you explain to me how the rebar stays suspended when you’re walking on them?
Nice work as usual
I see on your dump trailer that you are missing your dust cap on the front axle driver side, I know they are a pain to find the right size. Without one on there you increase the chances of wiping out your bearings on that side and causing a potential downtime incident.
Did one 3 courses after jacking the garage up and extending 5', a little easier this way, LOL nice job.
I have one question for ya, the mixer is low and how do you get the mud in the wheel barrel, I put the mixer on blocks which is never fun????
So you're doing a garage with higher cement blocks. Hopefully you have or will have it graded so water doesn't run into garage opening. The basics !
You guys make it look way to easy.
So maybe I'm confused but it looks like you got guys that pulled the bar up and then you turn around and had another guy walking in there squishing it right back down to the bottom so your wire and mesh is laying on top of your plastic and underneath your concrete. It looks like a beautiful pad. It looks like a beautiful Pad but it also looks like you guys walk back and pushed all your bar right down to the bottom.
Your kidding right? The rock in the mud keeps the wire from going back down
The wire is clearly laying directly on the plastic. FAIL.
@@SystemsPlanetin other videos he demonstrates clearly that it does stay up where it should be but in every video someone always complains it’s not done right. I’ve watched enough videos of these guys to be confident they are making sure the mesh is raised up and inside the concrete.
I had the same observation. 4-5 guys all standing and walking on it. Maybe we're both confused.
Check the depth of cement on their boots. Whatever that depth = same as the mesh.
Good job.
they pull up rebar and then step on it pushing it back down ?
Do you use concrete or mortar to core fill?
In a situation like this, would it be economical to just fill the entire thing with concrete as opposed to spending the labor and fill to build up the middle?
Is there a chance they wanted a little down grade toward the front, for water draining from washing and power washing inside the building?!
Hey Ron, how do you square up the foundation?
Also wondering why the dirt or sand under the slab? Does the plastic take the place of the gravel?
I hired two guys to put an apron on the front of my building and in the back to the edge of the building in about 3 feet. So we paid the guy and it wasn't 2 days when the concrete company calls me to pay them. So I called the contractor and he says he will pay them in 2 days. So I guess he paid them. While the driver was there he asks me where he should clean his truck, so I tell him to put it over by the fence which was just on the other side of his truck. He cleans it out right in the yard. Whatever! So then I had to pick it up so not to ruin the lawnmower blades.
Construction is like giving birth--you make a mess!
I don't know if you watch these videos, but it's pretty clear that your guys do not lift the wire mesh when pouring. See 17:36
I seen that also, from my observation lifting the mesh once you pour any concrete on top of it is almost impossible. I believe that it would be best if as soon as the concrete arrives, one worker should lift a spot of mesh up and a second worker should put a shovel full of concrete right next to where the mesh was lifted. This should be done about every two feet in all direction. This can be done for several feet in all directions. This will hold the mesh off the ground when concrete is placed. I hope this idea will help to get the mesh in the bottom third of the concrete!
Seems like a big waste of money putting mesh in there as it was not lifted, so it’s just sitting on the bottom of the concrete 🤷♂️
@@gazwaldofetonsville115 the metal supposed to be deep enough into the concrete so that it can't get air to it. Otherwise it rusts and expands, eventually blowing the concrete apart. I'm just an engineer and not an installer so, I don't know how it is accomplished but it appears they walked on top of the mesh, mashing it to the bottom. Maybe the mesh isn't thick enough to blow the concrete and the rebar was lifted high enough. It'd seem if you flipped this slab over that there'd be exposed metal on the bottom.
@@kendaleklund7475 Doesn't it get mashed back down when they walk on it while screeding ?
@@burtreynolds3143 If they put concrete under several spots and the concrete sets up a bit it will have a better chance of remaining off the ground. It would be best to use a dryer mix for this purpose.
That's the way we do it!
Why didn't they put the garage next to the house? They could have attached it. Here in the NorthEast we pour the stem walls 4' down, then we pour the floor.
first thing to do is spray water on the floor and make sure it doesnt run to the wall for when you wash your vehicle. been there.....for the flies get a dryer sheet and attach to a straw hat, friend sprays the hat with lysol as well, You can get clear adhesive fly strip sheets at Dollar stores and put it sticky side up on the hat, Flies go right for it and stick.. By noon its full
No frost protection?
Thanks
Not to be rude, but, if you didnt get the initial dig correct, how do you know the fill will be correct???
didnt see the mesh getting lifted tho
Where do the cement layers advertise? I was able to find a real small guy with 2 guys for a small concrete job.
What is the name of the red thing you left in the concrete? Is it fibreglass?
Why not use gravel rather than dirt for fill? Dirt settles, no?
3 courses was the right decision not stepping it. I think 2 would have been fine. Framer will be thankful.
17:54 Your wire didn't make it into the concrete!
Stopped seeing deer flies in my area, I'm not complaining, don't know the reason maybe just getting too old for them. I even live in a wooded area here in Ohio.
That's neat !
Why doesn't Ro's brother go to work?
No bond beam at the top?
bondo, what laser you use?
Pouring the stem walls as in a true monolithic pour, would not have been cheaper?
Pole barns have diff regulations than something with a foundation, not to mention, your adding a good $6k to the build!!
No footer /frost barrier needed?
No the footer is integral to the slab and it is esentaly a floating slab so you do not need frost protection. I have poured 100's of these mono slabs and they never move
Is there much savings over full foundation over Monolithic
There's not a whole lot of savings there is a lot in time but a monolithic is poor is stronger if you can add your floor and your footer into one. But a house has to be down at least 42 in our area the northern states and the southern area you can do more with a monolithic poor.
wire mesh doesn't do any good underneath the slab...saw that it was picked up once but also saw not being picked up
You tell them where to go, but be nice!
should had flattened the dirt dug footers leveled inside a lot easyer than hauling and filling thumpering
Wire is on bottom why put it in?
wire on the bottom again
Dude taking a leak in the background is funny a/f....
Heavy duty blocks.
type M BELOW GRADE INSPECTOR ALERT LOL, nice 2 load made it, type S 1800? type M 2500 type N 650?
You caught the missing rebar....
Gotta think the guy is better off buying dirt and your labor to make the subgrade right rather than buy more concrete. Do clients have to buy all materials placed? Great example, thanks.
I can't believe people pay all that money for a pad, and don't put a pad for the man door entrance? That may not apply to this guy, but in general. I have seen Ken's Karpentry for about 40 garages without.
@7:33 bathroom break?
I highly suspect you have fantastic content and do even better work; however, PLEASE buy a tripod, they're cheap. Ok, now that you've been encouraged I'm gonna go puke from motion sickness ;-0~~~~
the wwm (welded wire mesh) is doing absolutely nothing. it is laying on the bottom. I've cut more than 50 slabs where they had wwm and they said they pulled it up. well that does not work. the wwm will always be on the bottom. same for the rebar.. if you do not support rebar (or wwm) on chairs it will be on the bottom. wwm is a waste of money. use fibre reinforced concrete instead of wwm.
MMMmmmmmmmmm😂😂😂
Clearly 'forgot" about lifting the rewire 20 seconds into the pour! Before you say you did lift it - @17:57, 19:05, 21:25, 22:15, and everywhere else in the video, the wire is plain as day laying on the ground! LMFAO
So your doing a floating slab there ok, done lots of them years ago working for someone else but don’t care for floating slabs wear there is definitely lots of frosts won’t recommend where you have winters…
The critters are still gonna burrow along the edge unless it's as deep as a stem wall. I hate these slabs. Build a deep ass footer with a brick ledge set on the inside. Pack that shit down and pour the slab..........200 year foundation and no need to stack bricks.
Ask me how I know.
By the time it it backfilled it will be under 2 feet of crushed rock with a drain around it. Not sure how or why critters will dig under it. Also the edge is 12" thick concrete where are the critters going? lol