“Turn it off and EVACUATE the workshop QUICKLY!”
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 มิ.ย. 2023
- We carry on with the golf R engine rebuild showing you guys the tips and hints on how to build a successful performance engine with all the upgrades to go with it. We have a confession to make and also, we have an update on the Jaguar XK120 engine we built and the massive smoking issue
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Lee, I'm a retired engineer, I remember a smoky engine incident of my own. A customer had a little Honda Acty van that was smoking, It was high mileage and the most economical thing to do was to get a low mileage replacement. I sourced a replacement swapped the engines and the replacement smoked like hell. After sleepless nights, a lot of work and head scratching I interrogated the owner. His wife came out and said she had not been able to start it one day and used the petrol can in the shed thinking it was out of fuel. Anyone guessed yet? The can contained a 20:1 2 stroke oil mix for some garden machine! They blamed me. Hey ho...
On the jag engine. Great collaboration with both a worried customer and worried supplier. Fantastic outcome.
After torqueing down it is a very good policy to check again, good practice, shows quality build and attention to detail. All the best guy's
Exactly what I was thinking, way too many people don't seem to understand that center nuts can be torqued correctly but gasket crush changes when the outer are tightened so they need to be re-checked
It was also nice to see someone finally pointing out the closed coils on valve springs, I've seen way too many fitted upside down in all sorts of engines (including Deutz diesels back in the early 90's) That type of spring has been common on motorcycles since at least the early 1970's.
You can see a video with springs obviously upside down and poster waxing on about how high his 'rebuilt' head will rev without damage. (I think it was Donut media quite recently?)
I had a similar oil pressure problem on a 1500 Triumph engine many years ago. 80 PSI at 1500rpm when hot made a smoke screen along the road the navy would have been proud of!
Great outcome on the Jag engine, Lee! Worth bunging your customer a drink for the spot on diagnosis!!
Great business, when you responded so quickly to the customer, and assured him you would sort it. It’s now fixed and I’m certain you will see more engines through that customer, well done.
Thanks for sharing Lee, Brilliant to hear the 'Solution' to the Jaguar Engine issue ..... Just love your vidclips ..... Best to All from ChCh, NZ
Good on you Lee and friends. Great story.
Hi lee you may or may not know but Snap-On do a torque wench that also does angles too, as far as I can remember it cost £200 to £250, I could send you quite a few of pictures of engines I have done in the past
My experience with fitting ARP head studs the instructions are to bottom out the stud using finger pressure, then back out 1/2 turn before marking the stud as a visible checking method to ensure the stud is not bottomed out when the head is tensioned.
First class stuff Lee!
Sometimes, just sometimes, it's not what you know, sometimes, it's who you know that solves the problem. I'd consider buying Ian a pint. I very much enjoy your videos all the way here in sunny South Florida. 👍😎✌
On some of the engines I work on there is a tapered tool that sits on the valve when installing the valves it slips on the stem top and covers the top edge and collets groove’s grooves. It makes sure the valve stem seal is not damaged..
You can't be expected to know everything. Especially with a rare fault like this one ..very kind of the views to help you out with the problem. .a bit more information to make a note of .👍👍👍👍👍
Again Another amazing video and a heads up on the jag engine that i probably wil never have rhe pleasure of working on
Hi Iee as a follow up "you may know of this trick" but when you have finished the torqueing the bolts ot nuts put a small spot of paint on the top edge if the bolt or nuts then you can see from the marks how far you have angle tightened it plus it has other benefits too.
A worked in a gas station garage. My daily driver was a healthy big block chevy powered 66 GTO. No hood hinges. Just latched down. Somebody at the car wash must have popped my hood and set it down without latching it. Midway thru a hard launch at the top of second gear. It was like i blinked my eyes and then i could see my air cleaner and the fan spinning. Wheres my hood. I look in the mirror. Theres a 67 camaro convertable sliding sideways just as my hood came down and he ran over it .
It was a 60 over 396. So 408. 10.5 to 1 forged pistons. 290 duration .575 lift cam. Solid lifters. Roller rockers. Used top fuel springs. Offset retainers and keepers. Wide ratio muncie. 411 12 bolt posi. L60 15 recaps with slick compound
Lee, you do a very professional job when boring and honing. You are very meticulous about getting the correct size and clearance.
These smoky engines are never caused by anything you've done because they cant be!
Even the most crap boring and honing job will seal the cylinders. People just dont get it. They think you need to perform some weird black magic when refurbishing a engine and you must have said the wrong magic spell.
Its caused by customers reusing old parts on the engine without checking them and not understanding about how these parts or the engine works.
In this case it sounds like the oil pressure relief valve was sticky because it was cleaned before being reinstalled. If solvent was used, then the relief valve bore was clean and dry, and if the oil pump wasn’t primed afterward, it may have allowed surface dust to form and cause the valve to stick. There’s no telling how long it sat in a storage area that may not have been the ideal place for keeping a freshly built engine.
I had an oil pump in a new Chevy 454 stick because I covered it up and stored it in a barn for a year or two. I had to pull the pan, then disassemble and clean the oil pump to free it up after I couldn’t prime the oiling system with a drill when I was finally ready to run it.
Never heard of a nose voting off but plenty of bonnets especially with those rubber clips. I've modded' them on a couple of cars by drilling a hole trough the rubber so a pin can be fed through behind the hinged/over-centre bit. Stops it coming open and as its tight ish in the rubber doesn't fall out.
Soo happy re Jag engine. Your approach re check all before engine out was great brother! I'd even use yr trailer and bring them in, or visit them, vs going down that MGB engine and others on the channel I've seen before route!? Also builds customer satisfaction that you there to assist... Cheaper than strip and stress and give away $$ for nothing lol. Be well!
Great news it's sorted! 👍👍👍
But he could have used T-Cut instead of Brasso to polish and smooth the oil pressure thingy plunger though. 🙂 Happy customer. 😁
I'm no engine builder, but having used ARP CA625+ studs, the manufacturers recommended torquing to 35lb/ft, loosening them off, re-torquing to 35lb/ft, loosening them again, re-torquing to 35lb/ft, then loosen them yet again. Only after that do they recommend tightening to 25, 45 & finally 80lb/ft.
I kept seeing Caterhams in this here Dorset town last week, also saw a tidy brown Reliant Kitten going past on a trailer, we did have one of our car shows on sat but sadly my 3 pin plug three wheel van is still not fixed /cry
What fixings do you use to hold the hood in place on your kit car? You could fit some bonnet hinges or some extra Dzus fittings.
I worked with my father's for a number of years on all types of high end car we did do a lot of work for the jag owner club through GH Nolan's sometimes the auto choke units would over fuel resulting in smoke from the exhaust and more often than not the carbs would over flow with fuel we also would have to fit several coke units from the factory to get the fueling correct as it was a common problem
Not what you know….it’s who you know!!! 🎉
One engine smoke problem that no one ever thinks to check can happen on a perfect engine. That is when it sucks brake fluid into the inlet manifold, and it will burn like diesel fuel in the cylinders. A worn seal in the brake master cylinder allows fluid to collect in the servo vacuum chamber. It then gets sucked in via the vacuum pipe at various times and intake manifold pressures. It will give a good impression of a totally blown engine. Simply disconnect and blank off the vacuum take off on the manifold to test if the smoke stops. Take it easy if roadtesting, remember you'll have no servo assistance on the brakes. I had it happen on an old car I bought years ago. The previous owner couldn't find a leak and just kept topping up the brake fluid, and assumed the engine was worn.
I would've liked to see the valve spring compressor and collet fitting. That job always takes me forever.
TOP TIP, Get the springs and the collets loosely in place, put a piece of plastic bag over the top then put the spring compressor on top, push down and the plastic holds it all together till the collets pop into place, release the compressor and as if by flippin magic its done!
Hey Lee glad you got the Jag engine sorted. Also we always install the valves first and then the seals, covering the stems with a protective sleeve of course we are using Teflon seals, but it might be good for rubber ones also
Blue Mule
In the days when we were regularly replacing valve stem seals on Ford CVH engines, the seal kits used to come with a plastic sleeve to slip over the end of the stem before pushing the seals on. Worked a treat, and I used to keep them to use on other engines where they fitted, otherwise I'd wrap a bit of PVC tape round to cover the collet grooves.
We would all probably quite like to see some footage of the completed smoke-free jag and hear it running especially having been denied smoke filled garage footage and the cheeky click bait.
Outstanding!!!!!
Yeah series 1 Landrover engine, i been waiting for this back on
Be interested to see the issue.
If you were worried about Sharpe stem groves, wouldn't you fill the collet groves with oil?
Do you not check the tip of the valve stem is free of any sharp edges that could damage the seal when inserted into the guide? 😮
Ian just earnt himself a six pack!!!
25-55-80 lb feet head torquing steps I would have used, using my guessometer. But that is me. 🙂😁
Lee , just seeing you use a torque wrench , do you use a torque analyser or do you send them away for calibration regularly as all TME equipment should be ?
Hello Lee, are those front tyres on the kit car directional? The tread siping doesn’t look symmetrical to me.
I had similar on some Uniroyal tyres I had on a porsche once….
Probably makes no difference but aesthetically drove me bonkers
Is kit car front right tyre on backwards.?
I think it's the exhaust too, but a friend of mine did manage to fit a ring upside down- smoke ! 1
The race car looks to have a lot of toe out. Or is it just from being on video? How much toe out do you run normally run?
Iv got a astra van with a saab b204 engine in and last week i snaped a 3mm vac pipe from rocker cover breather to throttle body and my god never seen so much smoke thought my turbo had left the building
Don't panic Mr Mannering!
Oh f'k, sorry, do panic - oh flip.
Do you have a dyno to test and break in your re-builds?
I still cannot find the video with the clip of the bmw body kit saga conclusion.
These springs on high power tiny valves on these modern Swiss watch 16 valve engines are not much, are they? On old Minis with heavy weight big 8 valves were twined stonkers, mega pounds per feet strength. B series engines too.
Wouldn't very high temperature PTFE lubricant be better on the exhaust valves? To prevent oil residue turning to carbon when the exhaust valves become super hot and itself might bind them?
Ptfe breaks down above 250 degrees C or so, and turns into nasty perfluoroalkyl substances.
Lee - did I hear you say that the oil pressure showed full BEFORE he started the engine? How could that not indicate a problem?
2:43 Blue Peter car. Wrapped = _sticky-backed plastic_ / Fablon
Surprised to see you push the valves through the stem seals.
I've always put these valves in then fitted the seals using protection sleeves over the top of the valve stem.
My Brother a mechanic worked at a VW garage. A car came in with a fault as it revved up it had a terrible misfire, their diagnostic tech, fully VW qualified spent a huge amount of money replacing injectors, coil packs 17:49 wiring electrical components and still no fix. In the end after huge money spend he was stuck. My Brother said check the oil pressure, he was told light went out on dash do not be an Idiot, he said check the oil pressure. They checked the oil pressure it was going through the roof over 100 psi the pressure relief valve was jammed. It was pumping up the hydraulic tappets and lifting the inlet and exhaust valves losing compression. My brother notices the change in sound on exhaust and inlet as the engine was revved up. I had an easy one as apprentice I rebuilt a Transit V4 engine and it sat under the bench as a spare for out Transit mini bus fleet. When eventually fitted and started it blew the oil filter to pieces when revved up. The oil reassure relief valve had seized sitting under bench and not used. Sump off valve freed off, end of that issue that engine never really pulled well. It had a coolant leak a year or so later and overheated and took out head gaskets, when I did the gaskets I carefully checked piston height in the block it was low on all of the pistons. The foreman had given me a two litre block and a 1700 crankshaft and a bunch of other second hand spare to build the engine. It ran ok but not enough power, they just carried on using it. Lesson learned as an apprentice, I just built what they gave me and did not look at how far pistons came up the bores a few years later it stood out like a sore thumb. The engine type liked to round out the hexagon drive shaft for the oil pump and loose oil pressure, You could pull the distributor and using a long thin screwdriver down the hole flick the pump drive shaft retainer clip off into the sump and install a new drive shaft with a clip on it by pushing it into some clear hosing so that you could guide it in, then shove screwdriver down the hose and push the shaft and clip home and then pull the hose off the top of the shaft, easy fix. Old clip stayed in sump and was never a problem. Obviously driver had to spot the oil light coming on and stop engine so as not to damage bearings.
Great ending sometimes it's a easy fix
Question: Have you ever reconditioned a Daimler 2.5 litre V8 engine ever? I know two people that have Daimler mark 2 bodied 2.5 V8 each here in West Wales, and one of them, maybe the other, will be looking for someone to do an engine recon in the fairly near distant future.
I think the Triumph bike engine specialist who diagnosed the smoky XK engine would be able to sort out a couple of Edward Turner V8s ! Great cars and engines those Daimlers !
Bonnet did a Concorde? Now come on lads, you weren't even rallying and yomping and yumping! You were just pottering around on some flat tarmac. 😳 Sort your hinges out! 😁🤓
Shouldn't the tires on the kit car be handed, the Sipes seem bass ackwards on the front drivers right?
I love using my torque wrench, its an old King Dick airframe elbow monster, only goes up to 150 pound but it is huge and heavy making torqueing an absolute breeze and even today I have immense fun announcing I am going to get my 30 inch King Dick out hehehe I asked a local friend who has a workshop if he would calibrate it for me and he said abs perfect calibration, not bad for god knows how old the thing is, believe mine is ex RAF as it has a broad arrow stamped on the shaft and adjuster sheath so prob someone took a shine to it and nicked it in the mists o' time lol
That one act will probably lead to an exponential increase in your reputation. Good Karma is priceless and costs nothing.
😎👍👍
Is the tracking out on the kit car, looks like its toe out massively? Could be just the camera....😂
Wide angle lens.
Time to look at a better/ supplementary method of securing the hood then 😢
Shouldn't you have LH and RH tyres?
As far as I cud see they were 🤔
Ian come and get your bottle of scotch.
About time you started to use assembly lube on engines that may stand for a while before being fitted
If your working in a circular pattern, why would you go zig zag pattern?
You move in a circular pattern to not crack the head by going from to much of a distance from bolt to bolt.
I'm no expert but I've always got a bloody good clue.
get the customer to check the break reservoir had this on a rover 95 the valve or what ever in the vacuum reservoir had gone shot fluid in the engine looked like the red arrows had been through the yard
There needs to be a repository for all this type of knowledge else it will be lost
Its here on TH-cam in videos like this.
First??
Cordialement,
Oh what a tangled web we weave when first we practice to deceive...
Deceit by omission of course, hiding from TH-cam subscribers by not telling them everywhere you're going and what you're doing so they don't drop in when it's not a good time for it.
Ahhh the dodgy life of being a celebrity. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
and how many muppets made stupid suggestions as to what the issue could be? lol
you cant buy experience excellent
Bit of useless info. The engine image you used in the thumbnail is an engine I built.
Hope that’s the last click bait on this channel no need for it Lee….
Why do I keep getting unsubbed from this channel
He probably does it so he won't get bad comments, famous people can handle criticism, he ain't famous lol
@@jamesdungan6198 I dont give him shit though lol. Must be Youtbe