Sloped Shoulders and Suit Jackets - a problem and how to fix it
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- I did the alterations in a livestream on Twitch. I speak mostly German in them, but you are still very welcome to stop by and say hello: / vintagebursche
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![[UNCUT] "บอสณวัฒน์" แฉ! แหล่งซุกเงินแก๊งบอส ขยันผิดที่ไม่กี่ปีก็เข้าคุก l คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ l17ต.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BL56qIfXYZM/mqdefault.jpg)
Why use clickbait thumbnails when you can use memes? What a man of culture
First of all, really good technic.
The reasons behind the technic and the expalanation is also really good.
But as a bespoke tailor i think i should warn you.
(Must say, all of my thinking is based on the tailoring methods (Müller method) I learned in Hungary, tailoring methods and technics can be really different in other countryes.)
2 reason:
Reason 1:
Be careful with the pads, some shoulder pad are longated. The longated part is saw into the collar to fix the pads more tightly.
So i recommend to try to check the form of the pad before opneing up the seams. Opening up the collar can be risky sometimes.
Reason 2:
This technic is really good with jacket without shoulder pads.
(I learned the profession from a really experienced and wise master so i learned that shoulder pads is a must have. But hey, it's only the matter of your style, im not forcing anyone)
But if you have a sloping shoulders and you want shoulder pads then it is a much more complicated problem to fix properly. (You need to go back to the first fitting. My latest client also had sloping shoulders and he wanted shoulder pads)
Really good content, i like the channel and i (as a young bespoke) really appreciate your effort to make tailoring and clothing more understandable.
Thank you.
I was aghast when I clicked on this. I prefer the squared shoulders because thats what my body looks like, and it fits my aesthetic pleasures. Based off of the thumbnail, i thought the video would be saying why square shoulder are bad haha. Excellent job on the tailoring. Your clothes are beautiful and well fitting.
😇🙏
Thank you for showing all the specific steps, makes it much less scary to imagine this alteration!
Let's just we all admit that his videos gets better and better with time)
Shoulder structure allows for a smooth sleeve drape.
Ironing anvil video would be a Godsend! Also thank you for such a step by step explanation of this process, it makes it really easy to understand and follow.
The homemade ironing anvil would be a good video to see.
Thank you for the video. Lately I wanted to purchase your book as a gift for my fiancé, since he asked me to teach him some basic sewing. So sad the hard copy is not available in English. Of course I understand the reasons, but still, I wish I could have it on my shelf.
Oooooh yes please, a video on how you make that ironing anvil ! (that'd be awesome!)
Thanks for this video
outstanding, one of the most informative menswear channels.
Thank you for this video! I also bought a Cathcart jacket (like 5 months ago) and noticed those weird wrinkles under my shoulders. At first I thought that my shoulder were maybe too large, but now I know the true reason thanks to you. Damn you Cathcart for those impossible body standards!
I've been looking for this exact solution for ages. Top notch content.
Wie immer ein tolles Video! Ich hätte richtig Angst, die Operation durchzuführen. Chapeau!
the change in fit before and after is astounding, well done!!
Very cool video. I would definitely like to see more like this.
first rate use of memes, 15/10 would always recommend.
Great job. I altered my first shoulder job on a hoodie this week and after watching this will move on to a winter jacket!
You've inspired me to tackle my sleeve problems this weekend! I hope I'll remedy some past mistakes (namely, large armscyes)
I had my eyes on a upholstery cotton fabric with not much drape. Your comments encouraged me to try it. I really needed you to show "sew in the sleeves properly" but unfortunately vague. Great video
you're such a Clean thinker 🥰🥰👌👌 i Love that you did it by Hand to maintain full control of the folding. There is a time and PLACE for a machine, but a machine could Not do justice to this sort of job in the manner as accurate, fluid and FLEXIBLE as a HAND stitch 😛😛.
Always so excited to get a notification from you, great stuff as always keep it up!
As a woman looking for blazers for to wear for work! I can tell you, I look horrible with shoulder pads! Love a slopped shoeder moment! Was looking for videos of other women styling office outfit with blazers without shoulder pads but ended up here instead! Nice video haha 😊
I've had this video recommended to me multiple times and decided to give it a go. It's really interesting and I'm very impressed by your skilled craftsmanship. I hope this comment also helps with the algorithm. Have a great day!
I have the same problem. I'm still working on trying to figure it out, without a mannequin. Thanks for the information.
How wonderful- sloped shoulders! This reminds me of my time as a period tailor in a London costume house. My boss always loved the actors with sloped shoulders - they looked most accurate in those Regency and early Victorian coats. Nice skills you have- and I love your attention to detail. That's what matters in tailoring.
What would the solution be in your opinion to the opposite problem of very square, broad shoulders and a more dense upper back but still having a smaller waist and somewhat of a lacking chest in comparison? I can never seem to find a jacket big enough for shoulders and back without being huge at the waist and baggy as a result.
Adjustments to finished garments are always limited. You could buy something that is big enough at the top and take in the waist. But ultimately bespoke or making something yourself might be best.
You are a pure delight to watch and listen to 😊😊😊
I have know idea what it is happening here, but it’s cute and I like it.❤
I can't watch it yet but I had to like it immediately just for that memey thumbnail 😆💖
Well done mate. Very good video. I learned a lot! 🙏👍
Hello :) Such a pleasure to watch your video. I learnt something new again. Thank you.
Love your videos. Since English is my second language I'm not familiar with the word roping. Could you please explain? Not the expression but the tailor's use?
This is SO helpful. Not only would I like to alter modern jackets to get a more Edwardian look, I have scoliosis which means my left shoulder is about .75 inches lower than my right I sew and eventually, I'll make my own clothes but building an entire wardrobe is many years away. I have mannequin but , unfortunately, it is off the rack. Is it impossible to do this without a custom mannequin, or just tricky?
Nice fit, well done.
prettiest ironing anvil in the world :D great video as usual
Thank you so much, you are epic and i hope you have a nice day!
Very nice! This is an excellent alteration to know, thanks!
so did you remove all the roping, is that how you achieved round shoulders? What about the padding, did you take that out too? I'm seeing "natural shoulders" all over the place lately, Neapoletan style, Ring Jacket, Cavour, Spier&Mackay, and for some reason most men wearing that look like they have sloped shoulders but they also look great having them.
Yes, I took both out.
@@Vintagebursche So I found this bespoke tailor locally and he's trying really hard but he just doesn't seem to be able to get the shoulders right, they just don't "sing" and I don't know why, it's as if on really good tailoring the shoulder line looks kinda like a ski jump, it has a crescent, concave shape, and it doesn't even matter if it's padded or not or whether it ends in pagoda, con rollino or anything, while when my guy makes shoulders they somehow look flatter, they lack this ski jump, crescent effect, any idea why that is? It's not me, because I'm quite muscular and broad shouldered and I look great in, say, Canali jackets, it's the tailor, but I can't put my finger on what's wrong. Could it be the collar should be higher so as to create more of an angle and an optical illusion of a crescent, is there some technical trick he's missing? It's funny, really, Sonya Glyn mentions in an article that most tailors aren't really good stylists, the two things don't seem to correlate and I can see that for some things I have a more nuanced eye than my tailor, as technically good as he is.
Great video! I need to do it myself, but I dont have a manekin...
Good job. Looks great. I learned something.
How did you sew the sleeves back on from the inside and manage to keep your stitches straight? I tried this alteration by hand before I found your video and found it challenging without the consistency of a machine.
This is great. I’ve been looking for someone who would touch on this! I get nauseated by sharp or pitched shoulders with roping, etc. Can’t find any nice smooth rounded shoulder makes in the US. Brooks Bros and J Press and Ralph Lauren used to offer some cuts like that but they’ve all pretty much gone over to the dark side with shoulder tips so sharp and pitched up they could be used as weapons. Plus, the pants are too big to be altered. I’m a 47 in my jacket but a 37 in my waist. Simply taking up the waist in a size 40 or 42 pants doesn’t get it. The pants legs are so wide I no look like a clown. HELP!
Why do all these people spend so long chatting instead of answering my search question. Bully for you for being an expert and historian I want to fix a problem.
Hello Niklas! I just purchased your book pdf and was wondering, is there a way to translate it to English, like your comments section?
A quality video as always
Does the arm lenght change by removing the shoulder pads ?
Would you do this adjustment to a jacket if someone sent you a jacket?
I'm always surprised at just how narrow the clothing industry's idea of standard size/shape is. I feel like everyone has at least one body part that's difficult or impossible to fit off the rack, and yet in every case they look average.
Thank you!
Ironically I am hand stitching binding onto a king size quilt (which I did make by machine) while watching you sew. Too meta.
Nice video. I'm glad I subscribed to this channel.
Hey wollte mal fragen wie und wo du deine Klamotten her kriegst und wie Mann da einsteigt. Bin erst 17 aber versuche mein bestes mit einem klassischen Styl finde aber nicht günstige Optionen. Hast du da einen Tipp vielleicht? Und sehr tolles Video
Letzter Link in der Videobeschreibung
Danke schön sehr lieb
Did you removed the pads ?
always have problem with shoulder on my jackets , since i am tall and skink with small shoulders , most seamstress i went tell me is to difficult to fix , so i just live with that , and that sucks , need to find a better talor ,
How do I find the JFK look suits with smooth rounded shoulders and chest room. I dislike rope shoulders and “corners” at the tips. They look cheap. Second question is how I can find such suits with high button vests.
Without a structured shoulder you will not have a smooth perpendicular sleeve drape. And contrarily, coats without structuring are less expensive, furthermore, cheaper to make.
My leather blazer is oversized and it doesn’t have padding what can i do?
uh, Sir? We were promised a waistcoat tutorial. Please? 🙈🙈🙈🙈
Yes yes, it's in the making
Thank you : )
How did you acquire a mannequin that has your body-shape?
Bought a standard shape and cut the styropor shoulders down. But you can also build a duct tape version. There are tutorials everywhere.
I have neither sloped shoulders nor can i sew yet every second was worth it.
shoulders look way better this way mate. mnie are horizontal. i always look like im wearing shoulder pads or something
Unstructured jackets all the way, Brooks brothers sack suit
Excelente !!!!
I like your channel.
Hi I sell suits and This is really gooooood video 🎉👌👌
Oh und btw ich habe vor, ein Buch zu bestellen, sobald ich das Geld dafür auf die Seite gelegt habe. Freu mich schon richtig darauf ^^
Mehr Mensuren, dann klappt es auch mit den Schultern!
Nice cosplay channel.
My body is a funny genetic mess way beyond the help of Tailoring. 5’2” sloped shoulder big hips and giant feet ( no i’am not a penguin😂😮).
Well, at some point I'll make a video about a whole tailor's cutting system.
Can you remove elbow patches from a blazer?
It would be fun to see a video where you describe what teens wore in 1920s? Similar to your 1920s lookbook video but for teens, like your channel by the way! 💪