Road Armor vs CRE3000... I've Used Both for 1000's of Miles
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Before ordering any parts know your appropriate measurements! Shackles come in different lengths and axle distances can vary. The links below can get you started.
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Everyone makes a big deal of the rubber on top and bottom of the road armor, but the road armor is a fixed, center pivoting arm. The CRE3000 allows the same pivoting and also vertical movement. That adds more total wheel travel. I'll just have to try them out to see but I can't imagine how the road armor could feel smoother over rough roads or bridge abutments when it is only limited spring travel vs spring + rubber vertical travel.
I like it when you do short to the point updates like this one. Good info and you have honest opinion based on your experience
We appreciate you watching! Keeping it short is always a priority!
I’ve used both and I prefer the Road Armor system. It just seems to tow smoother!
Where my 2 rv’s failed was the hangers first. When turning the 2 pieces of metal flex back and forth and break!!! Box them in with 1/4” steel and weld. The cree wore out in 1 yr. both have extreme leverage on the hangers!!!!! JMO.
I agree the wet bolt kit is a must! When I changed my bushings out there only 2 out of 12 that were intact if they were there at all! I had to buy the special equalizer b/c my axels are wide spread but it was worth every penny. I would also suggest the SumoSprings tst-107-40 that has made the ride silky-smooth. No chucking and no body lean. Really worthwhile!
I love how you instantly pointed out the differences between the two products right up front in the video for those whose attention spans are a little short
I installed CRE3000’s with the heavy duty shackles which was a great upgrade from factory. I also noticed, after just one year and only 2,000 miles, about half the bushings had already worn through.
I also added Roadmaster Comfort Ride shocks. In my opinion the shocks made a much bigger difference and work very well with the equalizer upgrade.
Bushingd were half gone even with the shocks installed ??????????
East to West Ahara gives you the CRE 3000 and wetbolt kit from the factory with Gladiator 7000lb axles. Thank you for showing me what those components do!
Thanks for showing the thickness on those wet bolt upgrades. That's an excellent point, at the very least, upgrade those.
Actually I've also used both. I wasn't impressed with the MORyde CRE3000 because the rubber block started to pull away from the steel. Admittedly, we did take it over some really rough roads (USFS), but the Road Armor has held up on the same roads.
Too bad you don't have videos from the interior while driving with each one.
Thanks for the hands on comparison of these two suspension systems. I agree with you on the Road Armor being a little more substantial. I sure wish manufactures would install something similar at the factory instead of the bare minimum system to last a year or two.
We love the 3000, nothing falls out of place while traveling. We would never switch, what a great smooth ride as well. We get paid nothing for saying this either. God Bless
We just got a 2021 Arctic Wolf 321BH from Haylett's back in December. One of the first upgrades I did was add the Road Armor. I did, however, use the MORRyde heavy duty shackle strap and wet bolt kit as the shackles were thicker than lippert's and the kit was half the price of lippert's. We've driven probably 4000-5000 miles since then and it's been absolutely amazing.
You said in the video that the MORRyde cost more than the Lippert, but my experience was the opposite. I got the MORRyde kit on Amazon for like $97. The Lippert kit was like $180 or $190.
I had to shout out that you bought your rig from good ol' Haylett's RV in Coldwater MI. Before they became Bish's.
Double like for adding the blooper reel. 😂
My problem is that lipert makes so many cheap and crappy products, the new awnings, the frame poorly welded frames, etc.
yep lippert products are cheap trash. a shame ev manufactures don't demand better
Yes the new road armors are blue👍 our fifth wheel came with them and I love them.
I like the blue better!
think blue is for manufactures supply chain, installing at the factory, and yellow is for the aftermarket supply chain…no other difference, just color
They’re blue if bought from Amazon...
I don't know how I've never heard of this product. Those factory equalizer bars are a joke! I had one so worn it was sticking down and transferring most of the weight of my 6500lb boat to just the rear wheel. I noticed it on a 500mi trip in the summer... bearings were so hot I spit on the housing and it boiled away. Got home, replaced everything but I remember looking at the new equalizer bars and those flimsy teflon bushings like, these are sure to fail again. Now I know what to change them with this winter. Thanks!
Attention RVers !!! Take time to at the long I beams under your Trailer . If you have 2 or 3 axles the side load on your frame causes frame cracks that can be really bad . Spring Shackles crack and break as well as the web of the Ibeam they are attached to . Look about 2 inches above the bottom flange of the Ibeamand you will see cracks where the cross brace attaches between the Ibeams . This will occur near where the Axles are . Thats where the damaging stress occurs . When backing into a camp spot you will notice how the front tires lean and scrub one way and the rear tires lean and scrub the other way. That causes tremendous twisting stress on the frame . When you hear popping sounds thats your frame cracking and breaking a little at a time until it becomes too weak.
Ok… this is a heck of a claim. Do you have links with proof of what you’re saying?
@@WanderingWeekends Just start looking at Lippert frames breaking on youtube . I dont do links . I just found my cracks on my 2012 Freedom Express , not on the spring shackles but in the webs of the 8 inch frame rail in the area of the twin Axles. My axles are the type with the longer spring link between the axles . I am going to weld those cracks up and check the welds from the cross members to the Ibeam web. Also I am contemplating putting a gusset to the bottom of the web and flange . I am worried that i would only move the weak point then at the shakle . The frame then being unable to flex could make the spring shackle the weak point which would be even more dangerous . Just google lippert frame failures .
Keep in mind you are claiming this is a wide spread problem. Your one experience is unfortunate but it doesn't mean it is common. You also claimed the popping one hears when turning or backing is their frame cracking. Where is proof of this? Google will show me anything I want to see. I 'd like to see proof of what you are saying is wide spread. Just telling me "I don't do links" doesn't make sense. Why? Lets use some logic here. If Lippert makes 100,000 frames a year and you've seen 500 frames crack on TH-cam or Google (from folks you don't actually know) that is still a 0.5% failure rate. EVERYONES trailer pops and cracks from time to time. You are claiming ALL of our frames are cracked? That's gonna need some proof... I am not saying you are wrong... I'm just saying you are gonna have to back this claim up with more than "google it".
@@WanderingWeekends TH-cam shows you what? If it shows you broken frames and you research Lippert frame failures and see that there are many frames breaking , that should be enough . I have not abused my Camper to cause frame failures . My camper is a 2012 28 ft Freedom Express . I bought it used when it was 5 years old and maybe used it 15 or 20 times . I have not ever overloaded it. I figured it may have been used 50 times all total. I never looked under the camper at the frame until I read about lippert frames . I found 3 areas on both sides at the frame cross braces that the web fractured . When backing in and pulling out these areas are under extreme stress . The Ibeam is being twisted by the front axle forces opposing the back axle forces resulting in fractures that worsen and eventually take a set. On 5th wheels usually the frame is pretty solid but the spring shackles break away from the frame and the 5th wheel Goose Neck breaks . People tend to overload their 5th wheels. Now I found these issues with lippert frames , I am not a computer freak but I can research a subject objectively and I can assume you can too.
@@WanderingWeekends Oh I see , your partnered with Lippert . See I didnr need a link to research who you are and that you are partnered with lippert.
Thank you for the honest comparison. You told me exactly what I needed to know, clearly and concisely.
Really informative to see these side-by-side, and great to see both Lippert and MORryde offering RVers upgrades that improve trailer performance and safety! Great video, Cory!
Thanks Ryan!
Great feedback and information on both brands.
Thank you! Good information as we about to start out full time in December. Safety and quality functionality to the max is my motto!
After about 20,000 miles and a broken spring, I decided to completely rebuild the suspension. New springs and Morryde wet bolt kit. I was going to reuse the original Road Armor equalizer but noted the bottom rubber bushing was very loose and the top bushing was very tight. So, I pulled it apart and found the center pivot bushing was completely worn out and oblong. You cannot replace this pivot with a wet bolt and this becomes the weak link in the Road Armor. This pivot point should incorporate a ball bearing. Since that's not the case, the Road armor should be replaced when you notice the bottom bushing is loose. It is easy to check with weight on the suspension. The new Road Armor's bushings were both tight. For what it's worth, I put up with some awful road conditions, in Alaska, and also added the Road Master shock kit.
This is great info! Thank you for sharing.
How heavy is your trailer-My trailer is maybe 7K lbs, probably won't be going to Alaska soon (but ya never know!)
I'm looking at doing an upgrade on our 2006 Montana 5th wheel and going with the Lippert unit. I like heavy duty parts.
Try cleaning the items to provide a better contrast. Also show where the grease comes out .
Our Keystone Cougar came with the Road Armor but with standard bolts. I ordered the wet bolt and shackle kit from LCI directly a few weeks ago but I am still waiting for them to be delivered.
Shipping is still so frustrating at times
I was going to get the RA for my 3660, but NO ONE had them in stock! I went with the MORryde CRE3000 instead. Checking today, several places now have them in stock. If anything the wet bolt kit is a MUST. My trailer has roughly 1000 miles on it, which is a guess since I don't know how far it traveled from the factory to the dealer and I put 300 on it. The plastic bushings were already worn and one shackle plate was already oblonged. Those 8 skinny plates are supporting 10,000 pounds. I have not taken it out on the road since doing the install, but already know it will make a huge difference in how it rides.
I'm curious how the RA is assembled. It appears the cross beam is center pinned to the case with rubber on top and bottom, while the CRE is not, it has a slot to ride in instead. This can make a difference in ride quality since the center pinned can transmit shocks right to the frame while the slotted one has a cushion. If the RA has a slot in the cross beam where it is pinned, then it's 1:1 comparison.
Every one says they stuff is the best
I am working with MORryde at the moment on the CRE3000 setup I have on my fithwheel that is going on 3 years old. During a brake job I noticed the equalizer was built wrong from factory and making my suspension ride hard to one side at the moment they are willing to replace that one equalizer but not the other 3 yr old one and I am not willing to put a new one across from a old one. Looks like I will be up grading to the Road Armor as well.
The CRE3000 is OEM on Outdoors RV units, at least, as are KYB shock absorbers. In my experience, the Road Armor has a habit of breaking leaf springs for some reason, though maybe that was a lack of support that the shocks gave the CRE3000 action on the other unit.
@@twk1956 I am mostly on off-road owner forums. There are a few complaints, but just check it out to your satisfaction.
Great video my man! I’m definitely buying Road Armor Equalizers !
Short. To the point. Informative. Thumbs up.
Im actually doing a swap of axles mine were defective from lippert. So im doing a upgrage on my shackles kit.
Thx for making it easier on the choice. 😆.
**but been an ambassador they wont let you share a percentage off with us??? Lol
I have the Morryde 300...seems to work as intended...I guess. Not sure I can really tell a difference. Would be more interesting to mount a camera under the trailer and show how each are working to really see what the difference might be.
Glad you did this video, informative, direct and helpful, thanks!
These upgrades wouldn't be necessary with the manufactures would include shocks standard on all trailers. Once you pull a trailer with shocks, you would have nothing else.
MoRyde definitely - 20k miles on our 31MB GD and zero issues.
Do you remember if you used the longer shackles or the shorter ones? The actual road armor installation kit comes with the 3 1/4. I have an imagine as well
I'm nearly 100% sure the longer shackles were needed for the Road Armor.
Thanks! I love your vids keep it up!
Unfortunately with previous experiences with Lippert's slide mechanisms and refusal to stand by their products, we refuse to have ANY Lippert products on our RV
Hate to hear that. They've been nothing but great to us. Hopefully you'll have better luck elsewhere.
Agreed. Lippert makes the OEM frame and suspension. If they made the OEM stuff better in the first place, no one would have to do any of these upgrades. I don't see giving any extra money to the same company that cheaped out on the original hardware.
Thanks for sharing. What about the CRE4000?
I haven’t used that one yet. Hopefully soon!
Take those wet bolts and throw them away. I had em, changed to Never Fail bushings. No more trying to grease them.
I've never been told I need to get a new set of nuts, but know some folks that should get a new set. lol. Had to go there.
Haha.
Great video as always. I appreciate the honest comparisons.
I agree it’s nice to have a beefier piece of hardware when it comes to these products. However, I don’t know how you could tell a difference. I couldn’t, as much as I tried to convince myself the Lippert product was better. Again, I agree with your review, but they both do the same thing and I can’t tell any difference while pulling my 37 foot Jayco Eagle. Thanks for the video.
What about the morryde 4000. What's the hight difference hight of lippert to morryde.
Great comparisons and information!
Hey Corey I actually just installed the dexter ez flex and wet bolt kit a week ago haven’t driven with it yet I’m sure it will be better than stock relatively cheap 300 cad not bad will see how this one does before going to lippert or morryde
Yea I am looking at the same thing. So much cheaper and a good looking design too. It's about half the price of the Lippert system with bolts.
Apples and oranges. Road Armor makes one that is like the Cree3000 and Moryde makes a version like the Lippert you are showing here. Of course I’m sure you know that already.
Prices haven’t always been apples to apples… these are the two most consider.
Can shocks be added to most units too. I have a 2007 KZ and it looks like you could add shocks. Just curious.
Possibly. Clearances are very specific for shocks. It will vary unit to unit. Ours didn’t have the clearance needed.
I would have gone with the Morryde 4000.
We only go a few hundred miles per year. I like these but not sure if it's worth the money. I'm already spending money on new tires.
I think the road armour is better to compare to the morryde sre4000 over the cre3000
I’d have to disagree... the sre4000 is a $500 part and that doesn’t include the wet bolt kit.
@@WanderingWeekends I meant more of how they are both built. I feel the sre4000 is built a lot more similar to the road armour. Which also proves the the road armour is a much better deal.
How does the Lippert compare with the Morryde SRE4000?
Hard to say since I haven’t used one. I know just the part itself is $500 not including the shackle kit. It may even be too much for my particular trailer. I’d assume those are best for larger 5th wheels/THs.
I like the Sre4000 better than the lippert road armor. Upgraded to the Sre 4000 on our old trailer. The new one has the road armor. But to be fair the road armor is a direct competition to the cre3000.
Just bought the Road Armour about a month ago ( I went with the blue ) whether you choose lippert or morryde after just one trip I’m sold. I’ll never have another travel trailer without the upgrade again
Why would you not have had the wet bolt kit installed with the Zerks facing out?
do Lippert road armor come with 4 shackles for both ends of the spring per shackle, or only 2 shackle? ok the lightbulb finally went on, the shackle kits you buy buy separately. Senior moment
Ok, so, like Vinnie Barbarino, "I'm so confused!"
On Amazon, it shows the yellow and blue Road Armor kits. I cant find why the yellow is $140+ more than the blue. Does it come with the shackle and wet bolt kit?
This vid is over 2 years old. I’m sure prices have fluctuated for both parts.
Did you install the Road Armor or did you have a shop do it? Might be more difficult than it looks but if you support the frame properly it is fairly straight forward.
Lippert installed the Road Armor when they upgraded our other suspension parts. If you have the correct equipment to suspend the trailer it’s pretty easy to DIY.
How much more would it cost to just go air? That way you could do air brakes as well. These trailers are entering big TT weights, they should use air, IMO.
Thanks for the review!!
Thanks for watching!!
Okay I am probably naive here but why does it matter? You don't ride in your trailer.
The less your trailer rattles the less things come loose. Wires, plumbing, trim, SEALS… this upgrade also improves how the trailer tows. Easily one of my favorite upgrades.
Sorry after our frame cracking I wouldn't buy a toothpick from Lippert!
If this pertains to you it could be having heavy ply tires 14-16 ply and a heavy duty truck with a fifth wheel hitch that is solid, no give because the weakest part of the rig is going to give and that would be the trailer (frame flex)
NOTE:
I'm told by the Manufacturer of my Trailer that to replace the Equalizer is to VIOLATE the Factory Warranty.
I have never heard that. Do you have a link to this information? I'd be interested in seeing more.
@@WanderingWeekends I have the voicemail of the Keystone lady's answer when I called their HQ to ask this. (866 425 4369)
While watching this video I noticed the underbelly of your RV has what appears to be an added layer beyond the factory one that is between the rv frame and the flooring. Did you but it like that? If you installed it later, what material did you use?
That is the factory underbelly.
Do you find welding reinforcement to the frame on spring drops helpful? Seems good time to do that if you change to Road Armor or CRE3000
Not sure... we haven’t needed to.
Looks like the CRE3000 equalizer is longer from eye to eye maybe 8" and the Road Armor is 6". Did you have to use longer shackles? Maybe 3 1/8" instead of the 2 1/4 shackles? For 35" wheelbase. If so did it change anything, height of RV or anything
Lippert installed our Road Armor and yes they used the longer shackles. No change in ride height though.
Well I finally tried to upgrade from the cre3000 to the road armor with the heavy duty shackles. Well it didn't work out well. I have a 2017 310RE montana high country with the 35 inch wheel base so I used the longer shackles as you did 3 1/8 to make up the difference in the shorter equalizer. After getting it all together the shackles just wanted to keep flipping over, could not keep them in the upright position. Anytime one of the wheels was off the ground the shackles just wanted to flip around so I ended up putting the cre3000 back on and buying another wet bolt kit with the 2 1/4 shackles and putting it back like it was. Anyone else have this issue
@@wadeh9302 Yes I just purchased the Road Armor and found Nothing in the install manual that talked about needing longer shackles when installing on the 35 1/2" wheelbase. After failing on the install I have been digging for info for hours and finally have answers. I am so pissed off with LCI not pointing this out clearly. I have since found installation paperwork online that has mention of optional part number 862878 but no mention of when this optional part is needed.
What is the difference between the blue and yellow road armor? There’s quite a price difference?
Great video! what my problem is my tire on my fifth wheeler is touching on the bottom.. is one of the other product higher?
Not sure, I believe they're virtually the same.
How do I determine what size I need?
measure center hub to center hub
2 years now - are you still using the Road Armor and if so, any issues, have you had to replace any parts?
This rig is sitting at a permanent site. We’re now traveling in prototype units from Grand Design and those are obviously factory suspensions. The upgrade is worth it in my opinion. Either brand.
Still happy with the road armor?? I’m due to replace my CRE3000 but researching the possibility to go with something else.
I haven’t towed the Imagine much in the last year since we’re being fed prototypes to give feedback on. I really enjoyed the tow though. Both equalizers are great upgrades.
We upgraded the springs and the equalizers. We went with the Road Armours. Great improvement.
Good stuff......
I'm having trouble finding a set of the Road Armour to fit my 2018 Forrest River Cherokee 34 ft. 274RK ,, it has 33 1/2 wheel base and 2 1/4 inch shackles, I live in Michigan.
I have wide stance axels on my travel trailer, will the road armor work on wide stance axels?
Great question for the folks at Lippert. I’d assume they have an option.
Great video. Question would you recommend the equalizer over using the summo springs for example? At this time I can only afford to do one or the other. I just want to get it right the first time. Would you use both if you could? Thanks for your help.
Do the equalizer first. You can always add a new set of springs later.
Great video but I’m a bit confused. Do I have to also purchase the thicker shackles w/zerc fittings or do the shackles come included in the upgrade kit? Thanks
Thanks for the information. We just got our GD 3100RD and I have been thinking about upgrading my suspension. I have deicide on the Road Armor due to your video. I went and talked to my RV service center about this and possible a 2 inch lift to my trailer to make it easier when parking it in our driveway due to a berm that I have to drive over. I was told that the Morryde would lift the trailer 2 inches but they were not sure about the Road Armor. Did you notice that either of these units lifted your TT over the stock suspension?
Glad it helped! I didn’t notice any clearance difference with either part. Contact Lippert and see what they may be able to do. If you reach an end road email me wanderingwknds@gmail.com
@@WanderingWeekends thanks for your help and I will contact LCI.
Thanks for the info. What did you base your opinion that the road armor is slightly better on? I'd like to see actual accelerometer testing on the different products to show conclusive evidence on which one is better.
1000's of miles... which is how everyone else will judge performance. I know the accelerometer gives viewers some cute eye candy but real world performance is what I'm looking for. No one is actually riding around with an accelerometer unless they're making a TH-cam video or an advertisement. Both of these products are good... that is the main point of the video.
@@WanderingWeekends I understand what you are saying and am not knocking your review. I think the most important benefit of these upgrades is reduced shock/g's on the rig and would like to see objective data.
They make these for saltwater fishing trailers?
How much grease do you add
Ever have any issues with aluminum wheels like those? I've seen some break from side sliding pressure when doing slow hard turns usually when trying to park.
No, not yet. Fingers crossed.
Torflex for the win.
if your buying for a tri axle any suggestions one where to buy? Would I just buy 2 sets (4 total)? Also I currently have the cre3000 on my 2021 fuzion. I know it does not have wet bolts. Do you think its work keeping the cre3000 and just adding the wet bolts?
I would just buy the wet bolts!
In all seriousness my unit has a better set up then that stock one you show. My unit has the Dexter E-Z Flex set up. What do you think about that? Not as strong as either but better then your factory set up I presume.
I don’t have experience with the Dexters but I hear good things!
Hi I appreciate the video I realize it's a year old now and you probably got a lot more miles on your suspension system and have a better overall view of it but that's comparing it to the CR as compared to their other component
" S R E " because Morrydn has a higher grade component than the CRE..a pretty much basic component it is an upgrade that's for sure over nothing but it is their bottom line component so I'm just wondering if you have any experience with the Morryde's other system ( sre )and compare that to your road armor system ??
No, I can't compare any other products. These are the two most popular. I was simply hoping to answer any questions for those comparing.
How often do you grease them and do you do just 3 pumps like I was told? I upgraded to the LCI Equaflex and already put over 3K miles on them. Unbelievable how much better it rides.
Separate kit
Great video and now I want to upgrade my Grand Design. lol I don't see where the Lippert Wetbolt kit comes with the Bronze bushings in the picture or description on Amazon or the Lippert website. I can clearly see them on the MORryde listing. I just wanted to make sure they come with the Lippert or is that something you have to purchase extra? Thanks
He said they both come with bronze bushings included..
Your tire on the right has uneven wear BTW
Can you put these products on a gooseneck horse trailer ? Looking for a nicer ride for my horse. Thanks in advance.
I would assume if the measurements were correct!
@@WanderingWeekends
Do you know where to measure for this product?
The moryde parts kit is about half the cost of the lippert, and comes with bronze bushings included. Is there any reason the moryde kit wouldn’t work to attach the road armor equalizer to the springs? The shackles look very similar, both Chinese made. Thoughts?
Is there a measurement between axles that you need for the lippert. I know the moryde has 33 inch and 35 inch unit. I like the idea of heavy duty but do not want to order without knowing it is the correct length.
Reach out to Lippert and double check to make sure. Lippert did this install for us so I am unaware of part numbers. 😕
What are the technical or mechanical advantages of one vs. the other? I know you mentioned the bumpers, but what makes the RoadArmor better. Anything is better than the OEM of course. Thanks.
The Road Armor is a much beefier part than the cre3000. I also notice slightly less porpoising with the RA vs the cre3000. Its very close. Either part is a win.
@@WanderingWeekends did they give you any discount codes to share?
Dealers say that upgrades like these break the warranty and they no longer offer the warranty. Is this true?
Do you have an example?
@@WanderingWeekends we are currently buying a new cougar half ton 30bhs travel trailer. The dealer said it would void the warranty from keystone. There is the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act that should help me tho
Interesting. The folks from Grand Design have told me upgrades like this are fine. Unless sloppy workmanship is involved. Then it would lie on the installer.
What do you notice different when installed?
GO ZERKS!
Why not Center Point Air Ride suspension?
Just seeing this. Great review!! I’m following. Question: I have the Road Armor on my Montana 41ftr. It is the Blue. Is there any difference in Blue or Yellow?
I don’t believe so. Simply a “rebranding” from my understanding. Appreciate you watching!
@@WanderingWeekends Ok bud! Thank you! You’re very welcome!
Would you add shocks if you did not have them, and would you still add the Road Armor or the MorRyde or do you not need shocks if you have these or vise verse?
Did either of these products change the height of your trailer.
No, neither increases or reduces trailer height. Appreciate you watching!
So my trailer is an alpha gold and it has the thicker shackles and bronze bushings already. I have replaced them once to-date. How do you measure that this upgrade is a better ride, when I’m pulling my 5’er down the road I don’t see how different equalizer would really bring a noticeable ride difference from the cab of the pickup.
Does this help take the squeaks out of the trailer suspension?
Possibly. If your nylon bushings are worn it’ll be a huge improvement.